Mad props to you for your channel! I'm VERY impressed with the quality of your videos from an artistic and technical standpoint. You have great stage presence too and are quite natural in front of the camera. Had I known years ago that you would eventually launch your own RUclips channel, this is EXACTLY what I would have guessed as being the theme of your channel lol! Is the "drifting" niche / community strong on RUclips? Excellent work, my friend - I really mean that! I subbed and turned on notifications. Looking forward to seeing your future content and watching your channel grow! Btw - what's the meaning of TUFO?
Thanks man, I really appreciate it. I guess teaching in Japan and then doing some open mic stuff out in Cali must've helped my nerves in front of a camera/people. The drift community on youtube is actually pretty big and growing. Just as skaters like watching skate vids, us drifters like watching drift vids. I don't know if you remember my stencil art, but when I was doing art shows and commissions I started doing my stuff under the name "TUFO" because it was easier for people to remember and spell than my actual name. It stands for "Toothy U.F.O.", an alien with jacked up teeth, and basically stands for embracing what others may call your "imperfections" and quirks and then having fun being you and doing you. It plays off the idea of wabi-sabi.
Thanks! Sweet, yeah get her out there shooting! My girlfriend had a lot more fun that she thought she'd have the first time I convinced her to give it a try
Great video Gabe! It’s taken me a few years to get comfortable in most situations at piedmont learning these exact points you are talking about with a variety of different cameras and lenses. To this day my go to dslr for most of the action shots is my trusty old 10+ year old d7000 and 55-300. it’s old and slow but it’s been by my side in every situation imaginable and every condition possible. Practice makes perfect and knowing your gear is a lot of the battle.
Duuude, that's awesome, that's a camera you never let go. You definitely seem to know what you're doing with it. But yeah, it takes practice and time. There have been times in the past where I realized "wow, I suck at shooting this particular kind of shot/angle" and then I'd spend most of the next event forcing myself to shoot that kind of shot until I had it. And +1 to needing to know your gear, you're absolutely right about that
@@Itsallaboutthebuild It's not too different. There's a very slight, almost unnoticeable, delay between real life and what the viewfinder or lcd screen shows which can take some getting used to timing wise. Usually it's more of an issue to get over when switching from a DSLR to mirrorless, but if you're starting out with mirrorless you'll probably not notice it too much.
Thanks man! I already shoot car racing and drag racing but I will be going to my first drift event. I use a Canon 80D and plan to use a 55-250mm f5.6 lens, how do you recommend my focus settings?
I suggest putting the autofocus on AI Servo and setting the focus area down where the bottom and middle third of the frame meet so it'll focus on the bumper/headlight area of the car. An extra thing I like to do is to set the focus point/area down and to the left or right depending on which way the cars are going. If the car is moving from my left to right and facing me, I'll set it down and to the right so it'll focus on the front corner of the car closest to me while allowing room in the remaining left 2/3rds of the frame for the rest of the car. I do the opposite if they're going right to left. You can also do this with the rear bumper/taillight if you're on the outside of the turn. On the 80D, I think it's the small button behind the shutter button that lets you change the focus area type and then the top-right button on the back that lets you move the focus points around. I hope that all made sense. I'll be going over all this in a video once I get back into the swing of things. Have fun and hop into a car for a ride if you can!
Thanks! Nah man, I think you can do it. You already have an eye for composition with the videos. With photos, it's all about finding the key frames throughout a drift run while following a car the same way you would for video and just snapping those frames. You got it
If I was getting 75 keepers from 300 photo's using low shutter speeds I would be very happy. 1/40 to 1/60 and having an interesting shot will have a pretty low keep rate when you first start.
My husband, I, and alot of our close friends drift private track days so there is no photographer. I've been trying to get more into it but most of my shots are static or blurred! I have a Canon EOS rebel t6. Any advice on settings? I'm usually right outside the track or in the middle of the track
It sounds like you're using too fast of a shutter speed if the cars are static. If they're blurred, it could be due to the autofocus missing or you're not quite matching the car when tracking or panning with it. If you aren't already, try shooting in Manual mode with the ISO at 100 and starting with the shutter speed at 1/125. Adjust the aperture to darken/brighten if needed. This will get some blur in the background while being easier to pan with the car. When you get comfortable at 1/125, try going slower to 1/100 then 1/80 and so on. Set your autofocus to AI Servo so it'll continue adjusting focus as you hold the focus button down. If you aren't comfortable shooting in Manual mode, Shutter Priority works too where you set the shutter speed and the camera figures out the rest for you. Sorry for getting back to you so late, I hope this helps!
I use a Canon L 70-200mm F/2.8 non-IS. The IS, or Image Stabilization, version is a lot more expensive but can help with panning shots. I think the non-IS lens works just fine though.
this guy is so good at explaining
I just bought an eos 550d because of this video!
So much good info here. 🤙🏽
Mad props to you for your channel! I'm VERY impressed with the quality of your videos from an artistic and technical standpoint. You have great stage presence too and are quite natural in front of the camera. Had I known years ago that you would eventually launch your own RUclips channel, this is EXACTLY what I would have guessed as being the theme of your channel lol! Is the "drifting" niche / community strong on RUclips? Excellent work, my friend - I really mean that! I subbed and turned on notifications. Looking forward to seeing your future content and watching your channel grow! Btw - what's the meaning of TUFO?
Thanks man, I really appreciate it. I guess teaching in Japan and then doing some open mic stuff out in Cali must've helped my nerves in front of a camera/people. The drift community on youtube is actually pretty big and growing. Just as skaters like watching skate vids, us drifters like watching drift vids. I don't know if you remember my stencil art, but when I was doing art shows and commissions I started doing my stuff under the name "TUFO" because it was easier for people to remember and spell than my actual name. It stands for "Toothy U.F.O.", an alien with jacked up teeth, and basically stands for embracing what others may call your "imperfections" and quirks and then having fun being you and doing you. It plays off the idea of wabi-sabi.
Awesome content! Thanks for the info. I'll hafta share this with the wife as well, for when she starts coming out to the events again.
Thanks! Sweet, yeah get her out there shooting! My girlfriend had a lot more fun that she thought she'd have the first time I convinced her to give it a try
Practice, Practice, Practice! Great video.
Yep, that's all it takes 🙂 Thanks man!
Great video Gabe!
It’s taken me a few years to get comfortable in most situations at piedmont learning these exact points you are talking about with a variety of different cameras and lenses. To this day my go to dslr for most of the action shots is my trusty old 10+ year old d7000 and 55-300. it’s old and slow but it’s been by my side in every situation imaginable and every condition possible.
Practice makes perfect and knowing your gear is a lot of the battle.
Duuude, that's awesome, that's a camera you never let go. You definitely seem to know what you're doing with it. But yeah, it takes practice and time. There have been times in the past where I realized "wow, I suck at shooting this particular kind of shot/angle" and then I'd spend most of the next event forcing myself to shoot that kind of shot until I had it. And +1 to needing to know your gear, you're absolutely right about that
Came for photography tips, stayed for flogging molly and montana paint lmao
o
Good video for starting beginner. Comparing skateboard with motosport I don't think is good idea.
Awesome info. I picked up a used canon eos m3 to shoot all my current videos. I haven't had a chance to shoot some drift action, but hope too soon :)
Awesome! Mirrorless cameras can be tricky with drift photos. For video, you should be golden!
@@tufogabe6422 Good advice. Will possibly need a few tips on using mirrorless then. Thx
@@Itsallaboutthebuild It's not too different. There's a very slight, almost unnoticeable, delay between real life and what the viewfinder or lcd screen shows which can take some getting used to timing wise. Usually it's more of an issue to get over when switching from a DSLR to mirrorless, but if you're starting out with mirrorless you'll probably not notice it too much.
Thanks man! I already shoot car racing and drag racing but I will be going to my first drift event. I use a Canon 80D and plan to use a 55-250mm f5.6 lens, how do you recommend my focus settings?
I suggest putting the autofocus on AI Servo and setting the focus area down where the bottom and middle third of the frame meet so it'll focus on the bumper/headlight area of the car. An extra thing I like to do is to set the focus point/area down and to the left or right depending on which way the cars are going. If the car is moving from my left to right and facing me, I'll set it down and to the right so it'll focus on the front corner of the car closest to me while allowing room in the remaining left 2/3rds of the frame for the rest of the car. I do the opposite if they're going right to left. You can also do this with the rear bumper/taillight if you're on the outside of the turn. On the 80D, I think it's the small button behind the shutter button that lets you change the focus area type and then the top-right button on the back that lets you move the focus points around. I hope that all made sense. I'll be going over all this in a video once I get back into the swing of things. Have fun and hop into a car for a ride if you can!
NICE！
Awesome videa!
Thanks man! ☺️
Totally Excellent Video Daddy-o. I tried my wifes dslr this weekend. never again. i'm just terrible at pictures that dont move. :-)
Thanks! Nah man, I think you can do it. You already have an eye for composition with the videos. With photos, it's all about finding the key frames throughout a drift run while following a car the same way you would for video and just snapping those frames. You got it
@@tufogabe6422 thanks for the encouraging words sir. i'll just leave it to you pros.
If you ever get the itch to pick it back up again, let me know!
@@tufogabe6422 ok. Thank you sir.
Bro your my photographer I drift at piedmont 😂💀
If I was getting 75 keepers from 300 photo's using low shutter speeds I would be very happy. 1/40 to 1/60 and having an interesting shot will have a pretty low keep rate when you first start.
Ha yes it would, but that's why I tell new people to aim for getting comfortable at 1/125 before venturing to speeds slower than that.
My husband, I, and alot of our close friends drift private track days so there is no photographer. I've been trying to get more into it but most of my shots are static or blurred! I have a Canon EOS rebel t6. Any advice on settings? I'm usually right outside the track or in the middle of the track
It sounds like you're using too fast of a shutter speed if the cars are static. If they're blurred, it could be due to the autofocus missing or you're not quite matching the car when tracking or panning with it. If you aren't already, try shooting in Manual mode with the ISO at 100 and starting with the shutter speed at 1/125. Adjust the aperture to darken/brighten if needed. This will get some blur in the background while being easier to pan with the car. When you get comfortable at 1/125, try going slower to 1/100 then 1/80 and so on. Set your autofocus to AI Servo so it'll continue adjusting focus as you hold the focus button down. If you aren't comfortable shooting in Manual mode, Shutter Priority works too where you set the shutter speed and the camera figures out the rest for you. Sorry for getting back to you so late, I hope this helps!
What lense do you use
I use a Canon L 70-200mm F/2.8 non-IS. The IS, or Image Stabilization, version is a lot more expensive but can help with panning shots. I think the non-IS lens works just fine though.