Thank you! I have had brain surgery last year. I can no longer work. I’m still working on walking. They said it would never happen, but im proving them wrong!🎉🎉🎉 My WONDERFUL Mother bought me an old train set from a friend of hers. Well, I got started it made me of exploded. It’s overtaken a 12x24 room and I love it! I found nd your videos well made and very informative. Thanks again
Nice. I saw some similar gondola loads on a friend’s layout and I thought about doing the same approach. Gives a good reason to not get rid of the little odds and ends and broken parts.
Great looking rusty load. Great idea making them slightly smaller than the gondolas. That will keep the interiors scratch and dent free, just like new, or at least until the gondolas are entered in the Down and Dirty Weathering Contest.
Personally, I plan to weather the interiors of the gons, I just haven't done it yet. I want the loads to be easily removable because I load them on the layout then unload in staging to simulate actual freight movement.
Footnote to viewers from abroad: Bruce Monroe just replied to me that the washed must not be shipped outside the US, yet the powders may be shipped. I will note down the details with the Q&A latetely by friday. Thanks Ron for another inspiring video. Looking forward to first comittments to the contest. Your pleased supporter, Jo (come on folks join me - it s rewarding..!)
By making cubes you can simulate baled materials like paper/plastic/aluminum and even crushed cars can be done this way on there way to be recycled. Runners of model kits that parts are on is nice for piping other cylinders and cheap beads sold by the bucket for crafting are fun as well.
Ron have you ever considered getting some 0000 steel wool and pullng it apart for some nice steel wire scrap? could also get it wet and let it naturally rust as well. I am modeling a huge scrap yard right now and looking for any good ideas for large pailes of steel scrap in the yard.
As you know Ron l'm not a model railroader but lots of the techniques that you and others (like Vinny) show can apply to other forms of modeling. Look forward to your next video! Guy
really fine job, Ron.. the weathering products used did a super job. That nut also gave you some ballast weight to the car..gons and flats are sometimes a bit light. enjoyed it.. Tom
Hi, Tom. Yes, the nut added some weight. This car is surprisingly heavy for a gon, but many are not. I plan a video at some point on weighing and weighting cars to meet NMRA RPs and improve operation.
I saw in this video where you had painted the entire construct of styrene and the washer black and then sanded it off in places. I have watched shows on PBS when I was younger about building model cars. One of the tricks I learned is to take masking or painters tape and mask off the area to be painted. You then paint that model and when the paint is dry you remove the tape. On model cars the tape is applied over one color to have a pattern in a layer above with another color but in your case it would have saved you having to sand after painting.
I've made bale out of actual aluminum foil by tamping it into a square form and by altering the shiny/dull side you can avoid painting it except with a film of CA to keep it front loosening. Inserting a steel/plastic bead in the center while crushing it into a cube saves foil and by crumpling it you get a nice crazed effect on the surface. Indeed foil cubes also can be painted to simulate waste paper and cylinders can be done by tamping it into tubing as well.
I dont mean to be so offtopic but does anyone know of a trick to log back into an Instagram account?? I was dumb lost my account password. I would appreciate any assistance you can offer me!
@Gunner Eddie I really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff now. Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
I usually make my own weathering chalks. I use the kitchen grater I got at a dollar store. I grind up some white chalk and mix some food coloring in a communion cup (great little cups for mixing paints). I then add my chalk and stir it up with a tooth pick. I then pour it onto my cutting mat and wait for it to dry. Then I use a single edged razor blade to cut it up as if you were cutting out a line of cocaine. :-) Then I put it back into the communion cup for storage until I need it. For trucks, wheels, freight car bodies and locos to add rust I use REAL rust. I take a roll of fine steel wool and put it into a quart jar and fill it up with white vinegar and set it on a window sill so the sun can shine on it. After a month or two, I pour the liquid out into a stainless photo tray from my darkroom (10X14). After it is completely dry I use a single edged razor blade scraper and scrape the rust out of the tray. It usually comes out as a fine powder. I then store it in a snuff container. Depending on how long you leave the steel wool in the vinegar my batches come out with different colors of rust, i.e., some are orange and others are a deeper colored red. When I get ready to use it I put several scoops of my rust into a plastic communion cup (neat little cups for mixing paints) and add some alcohol, Elemer's white glue and a dab of water soluble glycerin. Then I just brush it on. If I want an area where the rust has eaten through the metal (plastic) I use my X-acto knife and make some gouges in the sides of a car and fill it up with my rust. To seal the rust I usually topcoat it with a flat acrylic clear coat. It looks very realistic 'cause it is REAL rust! Happy Railroading! W Rusty Lane in eastern Tennessee (Witherington Place Railroad)
Heyya Ron. I just wanted to give your viewers on the scrap steel loads another option. Try hitting up your local engine rebuilder or steel fabrication shop as they always have metal filings/shavings left over from fabrication work and they’ll give it away. I enjoy that due to the different materials and sizes no two will look the same, plus it’s the real deal. Just make sure it’s glued down well to your core. I love your videos and keep em coming!
I do the same thing at local shipyards i visit in my job......to make a realistic load.....I soak the scrap bits I can get in heavily salted water buckets for 24 to 48 hours.......then set them out in the sun until the water evaporates.....perfectly colored scrap in no time.....You will end up with a mass of "glued together amorphous scrap" the rust will become like a glue holding it all together..........which you can take a heavy hammer to, to break up.....perfect gon loads.....no paint needed.....I clear coat it all with Dullcoat......Bob Hill - OCEAN TUG & BARGE ENGINEERING CORP.
A person could come back at the end of this process and drybrush a trace amount of bright colors (red, blue, green) on select individual pieces of the junk to simulate bits of remaining paint of some of the scrap also.
likewise some silver/metallic paint drybrushing for "fresher" metal, and a clear cote and heavy black wash for a greasy load. So many possibilities to experiment. I think at the same time you could add loose pieces to the masking tape stick to batch spray up heaps of bits at once to scatter around the layout, maybe have a smooth trailer with a heap of loose bits and run it arouns your layout fast so some can naturally fall of to be debris in busy areas? If you do scale model building too you can use the left over sprus and spart parts to be "junk" pieces and pipes for your train layout too.
Hi Ron, how about a video on how to model a gondola of old broken used cross ties. After the track gang has re tied a section. I think this will be an intrestering open car load.
Italy called - They weren't happy about the first seven seconds. I need to learn to make some loads for my O scale stuff. The plastic stuff drives me crazy. When I get around to remodeling the three-season porch in the spring, I'm installing a track that follows the wall around the room up by the ceiling like they do in restaurants. Gotta finish the 500 other construction projects around the house first.
+Legion of Weirdos Well, do a cheesy Irish accent if you like (I'm Irish ). Lol. That sounds cool. Make some videos when you do. Hey, maybe we can collab on that somehow. 👍
It just didn't really need it, and I really like the dry rusty look. Even dullcote won't leave that dry rusty look. Had it been rolling stock or a loco I would have, but for this load I just didn't think it necessary.
Good lord. Wholly molly. Jeeze Louise, now I have to get my wife to look for odd shaped stuff at work! She already found a fire hydrant about an inch tall that I can cut up... then there’s these plastic cigarette tips she uses to cut up and .22 shells (yes, empty) cut off the base for pipes!
Hi Ron, thanks for this demo. I enjoy your videos and have learned a lot watching your channel. I just tried this for an HO scale scrap load and it came out pretty well. One question though- I do not yet own an airbrush and have been using spray cans with pretty good effect. However on this project, the wash did not spread so evenly. Maybe I had too heavy a hand with the rust, but is it possible the surface just wasn’t as smooth as with an airbrush and therefore caused the wash to pool more? I am new to the washes as well so user error is a definite possibility!
I wouldn't think the spray paint woul dmake a difference, but I suppose it is possible. I would just try to push the washes around a little more with the brush. You don't want a perfectly even coverage with these anyway.
Nice work....Timely find for me as I model the steel scene in the Pittsburgh area on my Pittsburgh Terminal layout. However you need some practice on your Italian ....cappiche !
THANKS RON! You n ake it look easy, I'll be n needing some for my layout too, as I'm going to have Griffin Wheel depot in Colton California as one of my industry, old wheels make good loads too, thanks for sharing... RON, how do you weigh your cars, do you use NMRA standards or just make sure they have a good weigh?
I try to get them as close to NMRA RPs as possible. As I told someone else on here earlier, I am planning a video on weighting cars in the near future.
Good job. But tediously placing all those parts seems a bit time-consuming. Why not build up the sides and drop junk onto the flat styrene, pour diluted white glue over it? Let dry. Weather. ?? Will that work?
The problem is keeping the stuff where it will fit into the gondola. If you do this in the gondola you will have your load permanently adhered into the car, which was not what I wanted. I tried using masking tape to make false sides to keep junk in place while I glued it, but the masking tape just ended up glued to the load and didn't look good.
I don't know what you're talking about but I had never seen a 51 minute ad on RUclips that you couldn't skip ever. Also I have no control over what ads are placed on my videos.
I wish there would be a technique of having a gondola or hopper load of loose material that will realistically be transferred off the rail cars. a technique i have learned for painting or dying many parts is to place them in a jar of colorant and shake. I learned this way back in 1973 when i worked at a fabrication plant that made railway equipment. I cleaned the welding flux and spatter and rust from the equipment then picked it up with the hoist and dunked into a tank full of paint. That was one of my first jobs. would it work better to lay each part on a plastic mesh hardware cloth and airbrushed each part? could actual scrap metal be used or would it be too heavy to pull? a fast and cheap way to rust old metal is to soak it in a jar of vinegar for a few days. this creates real rust. I use this method to make wood stain by placing bent nails and stripped screws in the vinegar. the old fasteners get colored as well as the wood. most likely scrap iron would go to a steel mill or foundry. an interesting industry model would be a steel mill with a crane and a real magnet unloading the cars. a refrigerator magnet might be ideal. an electro-magnet may be made by coiling wire around an iron core.
Instead of spraying it black and then putting 3 coats of rust wash on, why not spray it with iron oxide colour or a grimy brown colour initially? Saves time and money.
Whilst you have done a great job, I feel that you have missed the target completely regarding the paint job. In real life, most scrap steel is painted; and much of it is galvanised or plated (and possibly then painted as well). So having a steel load that is 100% rusted is to miss the point completely. I worked in my cousin's scrap yard during holidays. I saw a lot of scrap steel :D .
Thank you! I have had brain surgery last year. I can no longer work. I’m still working on walking. They said it would never happen, but im proving them wrong!🎉🎉🎉
My WONDERFUL Mother bought me an old train set from a friend of hers. Well,
I got started it made me of exploded. It’s overtaken a 12x24 room and I love it! I found nd your videos well made and very informative. Thanks again
Gondolas are my favourite cars to make loads for! You can literally put anything you want in them.
that is pretty clever the nut for the magno-extract, good job on that
Nice. I saw some similar gondola loads on a friend’s layout and I thought about doing the same approach. Gives a good reason to not get rid of the little odds and ends and broken parts.
I wasn't sure halfway through, but the end product is fantastic, good work Ron, keep up the good videos, a thumbs up from Australia
Yep, you can't judge a project mid way. LOL. Thanks for watching.
Simple and effective. I have a few gons waiting for a load. Think I just found it. Thanks!
Great looking rusty load. Great idea making them slightly smaller than the gondolas. That will keep the interiors scratch and dent free, just like new, or at least until the gondolas are entered in the Down and Dirty Weathering Contest.
Personally, I plan to weather the interiors of the gons, I just haven't done it yet. I want the loads to be easily removable because I load them on the layout then unload in staging to simulate actual freight movement.
Outstanding tutorial! Enjoyed the scrap aluminum one as well!
Thanks Ron for the tips on doing this. I did it and it looks great 👍
Footnote to viewers from abroad: Bruce Monroe just replied to me that the washed must not be shipped outside the US, yet the powders may be shipped. I will note down the details with the Q&A latetely by friday.
Thanks Ron for another inspiring video. Looking forward to first comittments to the contest. Your pleased supporter, Jo (come on folks join me - it s rewarding..!)
+Jo NBahner Based on this fact I am going to do another similar load video using Monroe weathering powders instead of the washes.
Thank you Ron, I have saved this for future use. Good job.
That looks outstanding.
Thanks.
By making cubes you can simulate baled materials like paper/plastic/aluminum and even crushed cars can be done this way on there way to be recycled. Runners of model kits that parts are on is nice for piping other cylinders and cheap beads sold by the bucket for crafting are fun as well.
+Richard Mattingly I have another video on making scrap aluminum bales for a load.
Looks great and very realistic.
Ron have you ever considered getting some 0000 steel wool and pullng it apart for some nice steel wire scrap? could also get it wet and let it naturally rust as well. I am modeling a huge scrap yard right now and looking for any good ideas for large pailes of steel scrap in the yard.
Great job... Simple and easy to do. Thank you. 👍
Thanks for sharing Ron, the scrap loads look great
Thanks, Randy.
As you know Ron l'm not a model railroader but lots of the techniques that you and others (like Vinny) show can apply to other forms of modeling. Look forward to your next video! Guy
+twostepn2001 I'm glad when others can use these ideas in other hobbies. Thanks again for watching.
really fine job, Ron.. the weathering products used did a super job. That nut also gave you some ballast weight to the car..gons and flats are sometimes a bit light. enjoyed it.. Tom
Hi, Tom. Yes, the nut added some weight. This car is surprisingly heavy for a gon, but many are not. I plan a video at some point on weighing and weighting cars to meet NMRA RPs and improve operation.
Hi Ron. / Congrats on the cover Photo and story. Well done 👍 demo
+trainroomgary Thanks, Gary. Thanks for watching.
I saw in this video where you had painted the entire construct of styrene and the washer black and then sanded it off in places. I have watched shows on PBS when I was younger about building model cars. One of the tricks I learned is to take masking or painters tape and mask off the area to be painted. You then paint that model and when the paint is dry you remove the tape. On model cars the tape is applied over one color to have a pattern in a layer above with another color but in your case it would have saved you having to sand after painting.
Thanks for sharing. I will eventually be attempting this technique
I hope it goes well.
i love this way of doing load outs and i think this is with in my ability as talent looks like i used my toes to do most of the stuff i try
+Scott Brandt Improvement comes with practice.
Nicely done!
I've made bale out of actual aluminum foil by tamping it into a square form and by altering the shiny/dull side you can avoid painting it except with a film of CA to keep it front loosening. Inserting a steel/plastic bead in the center while crushing it into a cube saves foil and by crumpling it you get a nice crazed effect on the surface. Indeed foil cubes also can be painted to simulate waste paper and cylinders can be done by tamping it into tubing as well.
+Richard Mattingly Yes, I've done that. I was going for a different effect here.
I dont mean to be so offtopic but does anyone know of a trick to log back into an Instagram account??
I was dumb lost my account password. I would appreciate any assistance you can offer me!
@Judson Ishaan instablaster =)
@Gunner Eddie I really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff now.
Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Gunner Eddie It worked and I actually got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thanks so much, you really help me out !
Great tutorial, I sure will give it a try! Thanks for sharing!
Let me know how it goes.
Nice job Ron, thanks for sharing
+rmindydotcom Thanks.
THANK YOU...for sharing. Nice project.
as always a very informative video...looking forward to your next load using a gon.
Thanks, Will. I have several that I'm going to spread out over the next couple months.
Very nice Ron, very nice !
I usually make my own weathering chalks. I use the kitchen grater I got at a dollar store. I grind up some white chalk and mix some food coloring in a communion cup (great little cups for mixing paints). I then add my chalk and stir it up with a tooth pick. I then pour it onto my cutting mat and wait for it to dry. Then I use a single edged razor blade to cut it up as if you were cutting out a line of cocaine. :-) Then I put it back into the communion cup for storage until I need it. For trucks, wheels, freight car bodies and locos to add rust I use REAL rust. I take a roll of fine steel wool and put it into a quart jar and fill it up with white vinegar and set it on a window sill so the sun can shine on it. After a month or two, I pour the liquid out into a stainless photo tray from my darkroom (10X14). After it is completely dry I use a single edged razor blade scraper and scrape the rust out of the tray. It usually comes out as a fine powder. I then store it in a snuff container. Depending on how long you leave the steel wool in the vinegar my batches come out with different colors of rust, i.e., some are orange and others are a deeper colored red. When I get ready to use it I put several scoops of my rust into a plastic communion cup (neat little cups for mixing paints) and add some alcohol, Elemer's white glue and a dab of water soluble glycerin. Then I just brush it on. If I want an area where the rust has eaten through the metal (plastic) I use my X-acto knife and make some gouges in the sides of a car and fill it up with my rust. To seal the rust I usually topcoat it with a flat acrylic clear coat. It looks very realistic 'cause it is REAL rust! Happy Railroading! W Rusty Lane in eastern Tennessee (Witherington Place Railroad)
That is good info. Thanks for sharing your techniques with us.
That's quite a time consuming process. Do you have pics of the finished product?
@@rhikdavis I can take some pics but I don't post on RUclips.
Another awesome project! Thank you so much!
Great idea, Ron. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks.
Looks really good....thanks for sharing !!
+Giulius71 Thanks.
+Giulius71 Thank you.
Heyya Ron. I just wanted to give your viewers on the scrap steel loads another option. Try hitting up your local engine rebuilder or steel fabrication shop as they always have metal filings/shavings left over from fabrication work and they’ll give it away. I enjoy that due to the different materials and sizes no two will look the same, plus it’s the real deal. Just make sure it’s glued down well to your core. I love your videos and keep em coming!
I do the same thing at local shipyards i visit in my job......to make a realistic load.....I soak the scrap bits I can get in heavily salted water buckets for 24 to 48 hours.......then set them out in the sun until the water evaporates.....perfectly colored scrap in no time.....You will end up with a mass of "glued together amorphous scrap" the rust will become like a glue holding it all together..........which you can take a heavy hammer to, to break up.....perfect gon loads.....no paint needed.....I clear coat it all with Dullcoat......Bob Hill - OCEAN TUG & BARGE ENGINEERING CORP.
Metal shavings and magnetic locomotive motors don't mix. i'd steer clear of that idea.
@@rhikdavis yes I would steer clear if they were loose floating around in there, but glued in….. they ain’t going no where.
A person could come back at the end of this process and drybrush a trace amount of bright colors (red, blue, green) on select individual pieces of the junk to simulate bits of remaining paint of some of the scrap also.
likewise some silver/metallic paint drybrushing for "fresher" metal, and a clear cote and heavy black wash for a greasy load. So many possibilities to experiment. I think at the same time you could add loose pieces to the masking tape stick to batch spray up heaps of bits at once to scatter around the layout, maybe have a smooth trailer with a heap of loose bits and run it arouns your layout fast so some can naturally fall of to be debris in busy areas? If you do scale model building too you can use the left over sprus and spart parts to be "junk" pieces and pipes for your train layout too.
great video, the scrap loads look great thanks for sharing.....
Thanks. 👍
Hi Ron, how about a video on how to model a gondola of old broken used cross ties. After the track gang has re tied a section. I think this will be an intrestering open car load.
That does .Akers a good load. I may do that sometime.
happy half a century of videos.
looking nice and a great tip
Thank you.
That came out nice
+djstrains Thanks. If you liked this you will like next Tuesday's video.
nice job Ron... looks great.. thanks for sharing.. vinny
+bnsf6951 Thanks Vinny.
Italy called - They weren't happy about the first seven seconds.
I need to learn to make some loads for my O scale stuff. The plastic stuff drives me crazy. When I get around to remodeling the three-season porch in the spring, I'm installing a track that follows the wall around the room up by the ceiling like they do in restaurants. Gotta finish the 500 other construction projects around the house first.
+Legion of Weirdos Well, do a cheesy Irish accent if you like (I'm Irish ). Lol. That sounds cool. Make some videos when you do. Hey, maybe we can collab on that somehow. 👍
Thanks for these tips. I bought the Kato Mixed Freight Set and nothing will fit those gondolas. So, I need to make my own loads. Thanks.
Hey Ron, Mario took over your video.😁
Looking very good 👍 on your loaded Looking for logs
that came out looking great! Just wondering if there's any particular reason you didn't seal it with a clear or satin cote?
It just didn't really need it, and I really like the dry rusty look. Even dullcote won't leave that dry rusty look. Had it been rolling stock or a loco I would have, but for this load I just didn't think it necessary.
Good lord. Wholly molly. Jeeze Louise, now I have to get my wife to look for odd shaped stuff at work! She already found a fire hydrant about an inch tall that I can cut up... then there’s these plastic cigarette tips she uses to cut up and .22 shells (yes, empty) cut off the base for pipes!
Hi Ron, thanks for this demo. I enjoy your videos and have learned a lot watching your channel. I just tried this for an HO scale scrap load and it came out pretty well.
One question though- I do not yet own an airbrush and have been using spray cans with pretty good effect. However on this project, the wash did not spread so evenly. Maybe I had too heavy a hand with the rust, but is it possible the surface just wasn’t as smooth as with an airbrush and therefore caused the wash to pool more? I am new to the washes as well so user error is a definite possibility!
I wouldn't think the spray paint woul dmake a difference, but I suppose it is possible. I would just try to push the washes around a little more with the brush. You don't want a perfectly even coverage with these anyway.
Awesome!
Nice work....Timely find for me as I model the steel scene in the Pittsburgh area on my Pittsburgh Terminal layout. However you need some practice on your Italian ....cappiche !
LOL, I have no doubt that is ture--I'm an Irishman.
I build rock and sand loads useing foam for the base and large pipe loades
Hi ron
THANKS RON! You n ake it look easy, I'll be n needing some for my layout too, as I'm going to have Griffin Wheel depot in Colton California as one of my industry, old wheels make good loads too, thanks for sharing...
RON, how do you weigh your cars, do you use NMRA standards or just make sure they have a good weigh?
I try to get them as close to NMRA RPs as possible. As I told someone else on here earlier, I am planning a video on weighting cars in the near future.
Ron's Trains N Things Thank Ron, like to see other do it!
a thin strip of painters tape would help on the base,like the video
Asking question what is correct scale of vehicles goes for O Gauge train RR
have to buy more gons mine has been put into tourist traffic. (excursion) train.
+Bill Vassar I need some more myself.
Paint on, Sand off - Daniel san
In retrospect, a small piece of painter's tape would have taken about 30 seconds. Sometimes we do dumb things. LOL.
Good job. But tediously placing all those parts seems a bit time-consuming. Why not build up the sides and drop junk onto the flat styrene, pour diluted white glue over it? Let dry. Weather. ?? Will that work?
The problem is keeping the stuff where it will fit into the gondola. If you do this in the gondola you will have your load permanently adhered into the car, which was not what I wanted. I tried using masking tape to make false sides to keep junk in place while I glued it, but the masking tape just ended up glued to the load and didn't look good.
RON!,..........Why do I have to watch a 51 minute ad to see your 28 minute video?
I don't know what you're talking about but I had never seen a 51 minute ad on RUclips that you couldn't skip ever. Also I have no control over what ads are placed on my videos.
I wish there would be a technique of having a gondola or hopper load of loose material that will realistically be transferred off the rail cars.
a technique i have learned for painting or dying many parts is to place them in a jar of colorant and shake. I learned this way back in 1973 when i worked at a fabrication plant that made railway equipment. I cleaned the welding flux and spatter and rust from the equipment then picked it up with the hoist and dunked into a tank full of paint. That was one of my first jobs.
would it work better to lay each part on a plastic mesh hardware cloth and airbrushed each part?
could actual scrap metal be used or would it be too heavy to pull? a fast and cheap way to rust old metal is to soak it in a jar of vinegar for a few days. this creates real rust. I use this method to make wood stain by placing bent nails and stripped screws in the vinegar. the old fasteners get colored as well as the wood.
most likely scrap iron would go to a steel mill or foundry. an interesting industry model would be a steel mill with a crane and a real magnet unloading the cars. a refrigerator magnet might be ideal. an electro-magnet may be made by coiling wire around an iron core.
Watching this for the 2nd time I see you model in N scale; way too small for these old eyes. Cheers - eastern TN
Instead of spraying it black and then putting 3 coats of rust wash on, why not spray it with iron oxide colour or a grimy brown colour initially? Saves time and money.
Shadows
Try to get consistent with your volume settings.
Couldn't you just use some wooden match sticks for the cross pieces? I use a lot of wooden match sticks in my models.
You could, but I had a lot of scrap square styrene stock.
Whilst you have done a great job, I feel that you have missed the target completely regarding the paint job. In real life, most scrap steel is painted; and much of it is galvanised or plated (and possibly then painted as well). So having a steel load that is 100% rusted is to miss the point completely. I worked in my cousin's scrap yard during holidays. I saw a lot of scrap steel :D .
9:51 boy, next time put a piece of tape on before you paint black