You could use a neodymium (rare earth) magnet and it will pull out the load. I usually make my own weathering chalks. I use the kitchen grater I got at a dollar store. I grind up some white chalk and mix some food coloring in a communion cup (great little cups for mixing paints). I then add my chalk and stir it up with a tooth pick. I then pour it onto my cutting mat and wait for it to dry. Then I use a single edged razor blade to cut it up as if you were cutting out a line of cocaine. :-) Then I put it back into the communion cup for storage until I need it. For trucks, wheels, freight car bodies and locos to add rust I use REAL rust. I take a roll of fine steel wool and put it into a quart jar and fill it up with white vinegar and set it on a window sill so the sun can shine on it. After a month or two, I pour the liquid out into a stainless photo tray from my darkroom (10X14). After it is completely dry I use a single edged razor blade scraper and scrape the rust out of the tray. It usually comes out as a fine powder. I then store it in a snuff container. Depending on how long you leave the steel wool in the vinegar my batches come out with different colors of rust, i.e., some are orange and others are a deeper colored red. When I get ready to use it I put several scoops of my rust into a plastic communion cup (neat little cups for mixing paints) and add some alcohol, Elemer's white glue and a dab of water soluble glycerin. Then I just brush it on. If I want an area where the rust has eaten through the metal (plastic) I use my X-acto knife and make some gouges in the sides of a car and fill it up with my rust. To seal the rust I usually topcoat it with a flat acrylic clear coat. It looks very realistic 'cause it is REAL rust! Happy Railroading! W Rusty Lane in eastern Tennessee
great experiment Peter, Has me thinking on how to use some of this technique and blend it with others. That sure is a lot of work to cut all of that. Your comments on scrap yards got me thinking how diverse they can be, very small to also spread out or even large. I save all of my scraps and cuttings for projects like this, anything from paper, to plastic and brass and wood, it is all useful. Thanks for sharing, Rob
Looks cool Peter. That scrap can be worth a lot I personally experienced several times while I was a plumber. One day in 1997-98 scrap prices for copper, bronze and brass shot through the roof. So much, that it surpassed the new price. Never saw a busier day both at the wholesalers and the scrap yards; loads and loads of copper scrap and new stuff being delivered for this fortuitous scrap price. Around 2007 a similar instance occurred when copper ore became scarce and every kilogram of copper brought about €16,- to the till.
And coincidentally with the spike in price/value, a _lot_ of bronze plaques disappeared(re-appearing at dealers who weren't too concerned about origins of material), along with thefts of copper wiring and other system components.
That looks like something I would like to try. You might look in to taking aluminum foil balled up and then crushed into cubes with pliers. or a vice to look like crushed automobiles. I went one more step before balling up and crushing the foil. I painted a color on one side of the foil so you see color and silver in the cubes. Then I did like you did, glued the cubs to a black board with a nail so I can get the load in and out of the gondola. Looks convincing enough. Just a thought.
I would have used watered down PVA (Elmer's glue) mixed about 50/50% each. A lot easier than using CA (super glue) and probably a lot cheaper. Cheers - eastern TN
No I don't use them. That car came from a swap meet recently and I haven't got round to changing them yet. I mentioned it the way I did simply because I didn't want anyone to think I still used them.
I don't know how it would turn out but it would be interesting to load a bunch of those soda can pulls into an old blender and giving it a couple of quick pulses. It would certainly be a lot quicker and might make the bits a lot less recognizable.
Hi ya Peter, ah..... the Mountain Dew cans come in handy once more. Awesome. Good looking load. I wonder what that does to the NMRA recommended weight for a gondola? Lol. See ya next time.
That was a very informative project, Would it less work using an old blender? Already tried you old video on scrap loads and mine turned out great even in N scale. Thanks Peter.
Put the ring pulls through a paper shredder or kitchen mincer. Be careful of all that fizzy drink. It might be zero sugar but that doesn't make it good to drink
Ninja or Vidimix perhaps. Something with super sharp blades. At any rate, use an older machine you don't plan to use for food again. One could use a few inches of aluminum foil and use that or add a bit to the cut-up pull-tabs.
Think "track ballast". Watered-down white glue. Ease clean up and dries clear. I would also add a few very light over sprays of silver, white, and a few shades of light gray to get a good contrast between the layers of scrap and finish it off with a dull coat.
It has to be some kind of ultra-thin glue that can work its way in between the individual pieces by capillary action, otherwise each piece will have to be pressed down into the glue individually, and that would take forever. The ideal glue would have been a full-sized tube of the same stuff that I used. It may seem excessive buy the 10 small tubes that I used had a total cost of about $1.70, so that's okay. Normally, super glue gas the opposite problem with most of it being thrown away because it doesn't keep well once the tube is opened.
@@mpeterll It works by a very thin coat of glue all over/around the various items of the load. Since it drys clear and a few thin dry brushings of various colors go on top/around the pieces it works great.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Great idea for the scrap yard scene !! Thanks Peter. Now to find a bunch of soda can tabs ....
You could use a neodymium (rare earth) magnet and it will pull out the load. I usually make my own weathering chalks. I use the kitchen grater I got at a dollar store. I grind up some white chalk and mix some food coloring in a communion cup (great little cups for mixing paints). I then add my chalk and stir it up with a tooth pick. I then pour it onto my cutting mat and wait for it to dry. Then I use a single edged razor blade to cut it up as if you were cutting out a line of cocaine. :-) Then I put it back into the communion cup for storage until I need it. For trucks, wheels, freight car bodies and locos to add rust I use REAL rust. I take a roll of fine steel wool and put it into a quart jar and fill it up with white vinegar and set it on a window sill so the sun can shine on it. After a month or two, I pour the liquid out into a stainless photo tray from my darkroom (10X14). After it is completely dry I use a single edged razor blade scraper and scrape the rust out of the tray. It usually comes out as a fine powder. I then store it in a snuff container. Depending on how long you leave the steel wool in the vinegar my batches come out with different colors of rust, i.e., some are orange and others are a deeper colored red. When I get ready to use it I put several scoops of my rust into a plastic communion cup (neat little cups for mixing paints) and add some alcohol, Elemer's white glue and a dab of water soluble glycerin. Then I just brush it on. If I want an area where the rust has eaten through the metal (plastic) I use my X-acto knife and make some gouges in the sides of a car and fill it up with my rust. To seal the rust I usually topcoat it with a flat acrylic clear coat. It looks very realistic 'cause it is REAL rust! Happy Railroading! W Rusty Lane in eastern Tennessee
Inspirational. Now I need to buy some canned pop.
Nice tutorial. The scrap aluminum load looks great, and using a magnet to remove it is a great idea.
great experiment Peter, Has me thinking on how to use some of this technique and blend it with others. That sure is a lot of work to cut all of that. Your comments on scrap yards got me thinking how diverse they can be, very small to also spread out or even large. I save all of my scraps and cuttings for projects like this, anything from paper, to plastic and brass and wood, it is all useful. Thanks for sharing, Rob
I think it came out great. Maybe you could cut up the rest of the can for variety, it could look like sheet goods.
Always like a reason to buy some tall boys! Thanks Peter, great job.👍
That turned out very nice!
Hi Peter this a great idea, remember you are building your railroad, using your ideas, does not if does not look correct to other people great job
I think it looks great. It really looks like auto scrap. Great idea. Thanks for sharing.
have you been saving ring pulls?
That was a great idea Peter and easy to do too. Thanks, I gotta add that to my to-do list lol.
Yes it was very easy, and I already have enough chopped-up ring-pulls to make a second one when I have some free time and another empty gondola.
Fantastic build and thanks for placed on RUclips hope you well !♥️
HC Treintje Herman from Belgium 😁😀😎🚂🚆.
Looks cool Peter. That scrap can be worth a lot I personally experienced several times while I was a plumber.
One day in 1997-98 scrap prices for copper, bronze and brass shot through the roof. So much, that it surpassed the new price. Never saw a busier day both at the wholesalers and the scrap yards; loads and loads of copper scrap and new stuff being delivered for this fortuitous scrap price. Around 2007 a similar instance occurred when copper ore became scarce and every kilogram of copper brought about €16,- to the till.
Interesting story. Thanks for sharing.
And coincidentally with the spike in price/value, a _lot_ of bronze plaques disappeared(re-appearing at dealers who weren't too concerned about origins of material), along with thefts of copper wiring and other system components.
Looks great Peter
That looks like something I would like to try. You might look in to taking aluminum foil balled up and then crushed into cubes with pliers. or a vice to look like crushed automobiles. I went one more step before balling up and crushing the foil. I painted a color on one side of the foil so you see color and silver in the cubes. Then I did like you did, glued the cubs to a black board with a nail so I can get the load in and out of the gondola. Looks convincing enough. Just a thought.
awesome work I would use a washer instead of a nail
Any small piece of magnetic material will work. Use whatever you have available.
Would the glue remove paint? You could paint the pieces different colors
Why not set it up with sides of a scarp pile? Have one side for aluminum and the other side sand, or metal scrap.
I've no idea what you are suggesting here.
I would have used watered down PVA (Elmer's glue) mixed about 50/50% each. A lot easier than using CA (super glue) and probably a lot cheaper. Cheers - eastern TN
Though Norman Rowe beat me to it, I did want to ask if those wouldn't by any chance be pull-tabs from Mountain Dew cans, would they?
That is a good idea looks good. Great "how-to"
Excellent lesson.
wow you still use horn hook couplers?? old school :}
No I don't use them. That car came from a swap meet recently and I haven't got round to changing them yet. I mentioned it the way I did simply because I didn't want anyone to think I still used them.
thank you for the great ideas as late try that on my railroad
I don't know how it would turn out but it would be interesting to load a bunch of those soda can pulls into an old blender and giving it a couple of quick pulses. It would certainly be a lot quicker and might make the bits a lot less recognizable.
. . . or it might just destroy the blender.
A few other people have already suggested that.
@@mpeterll haha... yes, I would only try it with a garage sale special that I wouldn't care about wrecking :)
@@tomroehl5126 Some of the other comments may be interesting reading. Others have suggested Cuisinarts and other high-end machines.
Nice load, they all work. How was the weight after done?
I didn't weigh it but it's very light - not enough to worry about.
Hi ya Peter, ah..... the Mountain Dew cans come in handy once more. Awesome. Good looking load. I wonder what that does to the NMRA recommended weight for a gondola? Lol. See ya next time.
That was a very informative project, Would it less work using an old blender? Already tried you old video on scrap loads and mine turned out great even in N scale. Thanks Peter.
Put the ring pulls through a paper shredder or kitchen mincer.
Be careful of all that fizzy drink. It might be zero sugar but that doesn't make it good to drink
Possibly Cuisinart the ring pulls?
Ninja or Vidimix perhaps. Something with super sharp blades.
At any rate, use an older machine you don't plan to use for food again.
One could use a few inches of aluminum foil and use that or add a bit to the cut-up pull-tabs.
I like the idea of adding some shredded aluminum foil to add variety. Maybe when I make another one . . .
simple but very effective
Now I have an excuse to drink lots of cans of diet coke! Great job, it looks really good.
Don't drink it all at once though. I collected those ring-pulls over a 2-3 month period.
Good idea!!!
Thanks for sharing.🚂🚞🚞🚞🚞🚞
Cool, Thank you !
nice idea thank you
I'm just wondering if another glue would be a good choice such as mog pod matt?
Think "track ballast". Watered-down white glue. Ease clean up and dries clear. I would also add a few very light over sprays of silver, white, and a few shades of light gray to get a good contrast between the layers of scrap and finish it off with a dull coat.
It has to be some kind of ultra-thin glue that can work its way in between the individual pieces by capillary action, otherwise each piece will have to be pressed down into the glue individually, and that would take forever.
The ideal glue would have been a full-sized tube of the same stuff that I used. It may seem excessive buy the 10 small tubes that I used had a total cost of about $1.70, so that's okay. Normally, super glue gas the opposite problem with most of it being thrown away because it doesn't keep well once the tube is opened.
I'm not sure if white glue would stick to smooth shiny metal very well, but it's worth giving it a try.
@@mpeterll It works by a very thin coat of glue all over/around the various items of the load. Since it drys clear and a few thin dry brushings of various colors go on top/around the pieces it works great.