This is excellent instruction as iam a new recurve bow shooter. The bareshaft tuning directions were throwing me off but when u take into account nock direction then it makes sense… i couldnt understand why a weak arrow was impacting right and a stiff arrow left of fletched arrows..on every chart u see. Then u mentioned NOCK left or right then it clicked😂😂😂 Iam surmising the value of this tuning method is that u start with a chosen set point weight , say 150- 200 grains, at a full length shaft so that it starts out as weakly spined at that length and then as you cut back that length it increases in stiffness until it tunes dart flying straight to that chosen point and insert combined..makes alot of sense to me as a newbie.. Thanks so much for your videos and your awesome no bs manner and style. Iam learning alot here.
Thanks for the tutorial. Now I know what I'm doing when setting up my new bow. Answered all my questions about arrow tuning in one great video. Thanks man!😀
I have multiple weight field tips and also use #10 washers that weigh 12 grains a piece to fine tune and tweak the best point weight when bare shaft tuning. I can usually stack up to 3 washers behind the field tip, depending on the thread length, maybe 4. If all you have is 125 field points, the washers can take you up to around 160-170 grains which match several popular traditional broadheads like Zwickeys, Magnus, and Grizzlies with aluminum screw in adapters. If you want more strength and weight, you can switch to steel screw in inserts. Thanks for all the good info.
Thanks for the video. I've been shooting recurves for a while and just sort of "winged" my set up because I never really understood all the "tuning" stuff talked about. Now I have a lot better idea of how to setup and tune my bow/arrows. It actually seems like I kinda stumbled into what you talk about - nock is about a half inch high, brace height I figured out when I got a new string and kept twisting until I stopped getting slap/got a good noise level. Tuning arrows will be my next step. Again, thanks for explaining it so I actually understood it for once!
I have not had to change arrows in 15 years as my bows are all the same weight. So I'm not real uptodate on the charts etc. What I would do is goto tradgang.com and make a post with your bow style, draw weight, draw length, and planned point weight. You will get many answers from very knowledgeable and trust worthy people that will answer correctly and help you.
I have not yet but it's out of sheer laziness. I would like to and someday will run aluminum footers. The key is the keep the footer the same length or shorter that your insert and it will not affect spine. But if you make the footer longer than the insert is inside the shaft the foot will stiffen up the shafts spine.
I actually do not. But should make one. There are many good "getting started in traditional archery" videos. out there. And the book by TJ conrads called the traditional bowhunters handbook is a great one!
I got a Bear Super Kodiak recurve and the manual for it gives a brace height between 8 and 9. So I set it at 8.5 to start.... What do you think of using serving instead of brass for your nock point? And do you clamp the brass nock til its totally closed?
Beautiful bow!!!! For brace height I normally start at the low end and keep twisting and shooting until I no longer hit my arm with the string. Then I write that down and that is the brace height I use. But that is just my way. Others keep twisting until they find a noise sweet spot etc. Tie on nock points are excellent! I use brass because I'm lazy and always have. Most of the time I can not get them completely closed. Brass will chew up your gloves or tabs. Tie ons will not.
Thanks for the feedback. Just curious what spine arrows you're dialing in with your setup cause of the 30% FOC. I think you have mentioned your bows pull around 56#'s at your 26" draw? Your timely responses are always appreciated
My arrows are .500 spine but that is because I use a 3 inch custom made 200 grain insert. That 3 inch insert reduces the length of flexible shaft and puts me in .500 spine arrow. If using a normal length 100 or 209 grain insert I'd probably be .400.
Another informative video, specifically relating to the arrow tunning which is tough to dial in especially when your form is not consistent. One comment I have relates to the weight of the insert you are going to use. Most arrows come with the standard relatively light inserts and we always want to beef those up. Since you build your special double inserts to get high FOC percentage, I'm thinking you tune with those and cut your shafts to 1 1/2" over and then adjust the points/heads because you have a good idea what spine works with the bows you shoot? So how might a less experienced shooter go about the process of dialing in spine and insert grains? I primarily target shoot since SoCal not a hunters paradise but I do like to have some FOC.
Great question! The best approach in my opinion is to know what point weight you want to shoot (head, insert and adapter combo), then get the shaft that best accommodates that and cut the shaft as you bare shaft tune until you get perfect arrow flight or run out of shaft to cut. If your shaft gets too short you either go to a stiffer spine and repeat or lighten up the head weight.
@@SamkoTradBow thank you for the reply. Thank you for all the great content as well. Your channel is a treasure of information. I shoot a 26" draw as well. My bow is a bear kodiak hunter 55#. At my draw length im sure im under the 55#. I have 400 spine gt trad arrows @ 27". Going to put 250 grains out front. Fo think i may be over spined to start with? Thanks again.
@@goyaae7588 spine has so many variables like release, bow torque, string creep before release etc. The only real way to see what spine works vest for you is to bare shaft test by shooting a bare shaft with no feathers. Use the field tip of point weight you plan to use and watch the arrow in flight ro see how it flies. Google search what is still or weak. I can't remeber as I have shoot same bow weight and arrows for so long. If too still add more point weight. If too weak shorten shaft 1/8 inch at a time if you have the room. If don't have the room go to lighter point or stiffer spine.
Hey Jason. Great stuff! Was wondering about your thoughts on arrow length. Seen a lot on forums of guys shooting full length 32” shafts...my normal length would only be 30.5”. But full length feels like a spear. Any thoughts ... does it matter within 2 inches? Jp
Does not matter, but my thought is the shorter the arrow the better chance it passes thru and into the ground. An arrow in an animal causes them to run full on until they die alot of times. I'd rather the arrow sticking in the ground and the animal dies in sight because it's not spooked.
Great information! I needed the refresher since trying to enjoy traditional archery again at age 60. Tnx again for posting!
Awesome! Love that you are back at the traditional stuff!
Brilliant. A perfect refresher. Thank you
Glad you enjoyed it
This video is amazing, thank you for all your contributions to this community.
Thank you and glad you enjoyed it
Another great video. Im getting a solid foundation from you and grateful for your videos.
Glad you are enjoying the videos
Thanks a ton for all the info! You're videos are very helpful. Hope you're doing well!
Thank you. Glad you are enjoying them
This is excellent instruction as iam a new recurve bow shooter.
The bareshaft tuning directions were throwing me off but when u take into account nock direction then it makes sense… i couldnt understand why a weak arrow was impacting right and a stiff arrow left of fletched arrows..on every chart u see. Then u mentioned NOCK left or right then it clicked😂😂😂
Iam surmising the value of this tuning method is that u start with a chosen set point weight , say 150- 200 grains, at a full length shaft so that it starts out as weakly spined at that length and
then as you cut back that length it increases in stiffness until it tunes dart flying straight to that chosen point and insert combined..makes alot of sense to me as a newbie..
Thanks so much for your videos and your awesome no bs manner and style. Iam learning alot here.
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed the video! And welcome to the world of traditional archery!
Thanks for the tutorial. Now I know what I'm doing when setting up my new bow. Answered all my questions about arrow tuning in one great video. Thanks man!😀
Glad I could help!
I realize Im quite off topic but does anyone know a good site to stream new movies online?
@Houston Bodie flixportal =)
@Cooper Frederick Thank you, I signed up and it seems like they got a lot of movies there =) I really appreciate it!
@Houston Bodie You are welcome :)
I have multiple weight field tips and also use #10 washers that weigh 12 grains a piece to fine tune and tweak the best point weight when bare shaft tuning. I can usually stack up to 3 washers behind the field tip, depending on the thread length, maybe 4. If all you have is 125 field points, the washers can take you up to around 160-170 grains which match several popular traditional broadheads like Zwickeys, Magnus, and Grizzlies with aluminum screw in adapters. If you want more strength and weight, you can switch to steel screw in inserts. Thanks for all the good info.
Great tips and ideas!
Thanks for the video. I've been shooting recurves for a while and just sort of "winged" my set up because I never really understood all the "tuning" stuff talked about. Now I have a lot better idea of how to setup and tune my bow/arrows. It actually seems like I kinda stumbled into what you talk about - nock is about a half inch high, brace height I figured out when I got a new string and kept twisting until I stopped getting slap/got a good noise level. Tuning arrows will be my next step. Again, thanks for explaining it so I actually understood it for once!
Glad I could help! Sounds like you are on the right track. Any questions just ask!
Awesome video! I picked up a pre-owned Northern Mist American that I could not pass up. So I am going through these exact steps right now!
You are gonna love that northern mist bow!
Thanks for the tutorial.
Very welcome
Always great info and help. Thanks!
Thank you
Do you have a recommendation for a starting point for arrows with a 50lb @ 28" recurve (58")? Thanks!
I have not had to change arrows in 15 years as my bows are all the same weight. So I'm not real uptodate on the charts etc. What I would do is goto tradgang.com and make a post with your bow style, draw weight, draw length, and planned point weight. You will get many answers from very knowledgeable and trust worthy people that will answer correctly and help you.
@@SamkoTradBow thank you for the info!
thanx for the info, keep the videos coming,,
Glad you enjoyed it
Great explanation!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you
Have you ever experimented with the aluminum footings? I believe that they essentially stiffen the shaft as well.
I have not yet but it's out of sheer laziness. I would like to and someday will run aluminum footers. The key is the keep the footer the same length or shorter that your insert and it will not affect spine. But if you make the footer longer than the insert is inside the shaft the foot will stiffen up the shafts spine.
Great point!
YOU say about brace length being critical Do you do that by shortening the string?
Correct. Shorten or lengthen the string by twisting it tight or looser. Measure from the string to the throat of the grip
I love that quiver on your bow. What brand is that?
Great northern bowhunting company
For a takedown, recurve. Once you set the brace height. Then take the bow apart, I assume I have to reset the brace height every time?
Depends. If you take the string off the limbs yes. If you leave the string on the limbs no
@@SamkoTradBow that’s where twisting the line comes in, right?
@@djkilpatrick5256 correct. Twisting thw string sets the brace height
Do you have beginner video
I actually do not. But should make one. There are many good "getting started in traditional archery" videos. out there. And the book by TJ conrads called the traditional bowhunters handbook is a great one!
Jason , I'm just learning to shoot a recurve. As far as nock right or nock left flight is it opposite for us lefties? Such as nock right= stiff etc?
Correct we are opposite of what right handed tuning results are
For a left nock right is to weak nock left is to stiff. I’m a left as well been learning as I go here.
How do you loosen the brass nock point to move it?
with the nock pliers.
I got a Bear Super Kodiak recurve and the manual for it gives a brace height between 8 and 9. So I set it at 8.5 to start.... What do you think of using serving instead of brass for your nock point? And do you clamp the brass nock til its totally closed?
Beautiful bow!!!! For brace height I normally start at the low end and keep twisting and shooting until I no longer hit my arm with the string. Then I write that down and that is the brace height I use. But that is just my way. Others keep twisting until they find a noise sweet spot etc.
Tie on nock points are excellent! I use brass because I'm lazy and always have. Most of the time I can not get them completely closed. Brass will chew up your gloves or tabs. Tie ons will not.
Thanks for the feedback. Just curious what spine arrows you're dialing in with your setup cause of the 30% FOC. I think you have mentioned your bows pull around 56#'s at your 26" draw?
Your timely responses are always appreciated
My arrows are .500 spine but that is because I use a 3 inch custom made 200 grain insert. That 3 inch insert reduces the length of flexible shaft and puts me in .500 spine arrow. If using a normal length 100 or 209 grain insert I'd probably be .400.
Another informative video, specifically relating to the arrow tunning which is tough to dial in especially when your form is not consistent. One comment I have relates to the weight of the insert you are going to use. Most arrows come with the standard relatively light inserts and we always want to beef those up. Since you build your special double inserts to get high FOC percentage, I'm thinking you tune with those and cut your shafts to 1 1/2" over and then adjust the points/heads because you have a good idea what spine works with the bows you shoot? So how might a less experienced shooter go about the process of dialing in spine and insert grains? I primarily target shoot since SoCal not a hunters paradise but I do like to have some FOC.
Great question! The best approach in my opinion is to know what point weight you want to shoot (head, insert and adapter combo), then get the shaft that best accommodates that and cut the shaft as you bare shaft tune until you get perfect arrow flight or run out of shaft to cut. If your shaft gets too short you either go to a stiffer spine and repeat or lighten up the head weight.
What quiver do you have on your longbow?
Great northern bowhunting quiver
Are you left handed at everything, even left eye dominant?
yes.
@@SamkoTradBow same here
What spine are you shooting?
500 spine but I'm using custom made 3 inch long inserts and a 27 inch arrow
@@SamkoTradBow thank you for the reply. Thank you for all the great content as well. Your channel is a treasure of information.
I shoot a 26" draw as well. My bow is a bear kodiak hunter 55#. At my draw length im sure im under the 55#. I have 400 spine gt trad arrows @ 27". Going to put 250 grains out front. Fo think i may be over spined to start with? Thanks again.
@@goyaae7588 spine has so many variables like release, bow torque, string creep before release etc. The only real way to see what spine works vest for you is to bare shaft test by shooting a bare shaft with no feathers. Use the field tip of point weight you plan to use and watch the arrow in flight ro see how it flies. Google search what is still or weak. I can't remeber as I have shoot same bow weight and arrows for so long. If too still add more point weight. If too weak shorten shaft 1/8 inch at a time if you have the room. If don't have the room go to lighter point or stiffer spine.
@@SamkoTradBow thank you. Will do. Have a great evening
Hey Jason. Great stuff! Was wondering about your thoughts on arrow length. Seen a lot on forums of guys shooting full length 32” shafts...my normal length would only be 30.5”. But full length feels like a spear. Any thoughts ... does it matter within 2 inches?
Jp
Does not matter, but my thought is the shorter the arrow the better chance it passes thru and into the ground. An arrow in an animal causes them to run full on until they die alot of times. I'd rather the arrow sticking in the ground and the animal dies in sight because it's not spooked.
That makes sense. Thanks Jason. Happy hunting
John
@@forgottenheritagehomestead8448 any questions anytime bud!
Wanna hunting together
Very informative!
Glad you enjoyed it