Nikon Z 9 tutorial: How to cope with the rain, snow, cold and the sea
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- Nikon professional gear is renowned for its hardy weather proofing and being able to face the most hostile conditions around the world. Ludovic Drean, Head of Nikon Pro Service (NPS) France will talk you through how to clean your camera and lens after it rains, or when being out in the snow. You’ll learn what to do and what not to do if your kit comes into contact with sea water or if you go out in very cold weather.
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I don’t think Morten Hilmer got the memo!
Always keep one battery in your gloves if it's bellow -30°C.
If the camera is frozen just leave it.
Oh and never forget your coffee 😂
One thing about fogging, because of different temperature. The condensation of the lens or other parts will only happen, when you get from cold to warm and not vice/versa. So it shouldnt be a problem when you get from your warm home outside in the cold.
Ummmmm,no,it is the exact opposite
@@chipsrafferty8362 fogging is happening because cold air cannot keep as much moisture as warm air. If warm air gets on cold surfaces, the air is cooling down and cannot keep the moisture, which is than remaining on the surface. This is not happening, when you get from warm to cold, because the lens is warm and not cold.
It's not the entire "temperature difference" story. Yes, condensation can happen onto the camera/lens when it is cold and you bring it into the cold. (Fluorine coating? Not sure what that does here.). The other way around, there is no condensation, but your big lens hood, or front lens element of your huge telephoto lens can cause "thermals" (*) and these can cause optical distortion.
Watch Morten Hilmer (RUclips) in his most recent series - with Z kit - on the quest for shooting musk oxen in wintery Norway. In one of the videos Morten shows his thermometer on his kit: -20C (-4F). He places his camera outside, not in his case, not in his tent (risk of condensation) but leaves it out to stay the same temperature as the outdoors (risk of thermals). Biggest risk Morten had out there was in the guaranteed operating range of his memory cards - most are guaranteed down to -10C. And this probably applies to his Nikon kit as well. It all worked very well, though. And that's why we bought Nikon in the first place: professional robustness.
While there's one thing we know that Nikon did very well, relative to any other brand: weather sealing. Drying the camera, IMO, is probably more a mitigation of preventing dust to remain stuck to the camera rather than the moist itself. That dust will easily travel later on. Video presenter warns against drying the camera in dry rice. Similar story.
And, while peeps out there talk about "focus breathing" they forget two - more important IMO - other ones: (1) aperture breathing and (2) gas breathing. A lens with a relative-to-each-other fixed set of elements, as is the classical design, will have its focal length and aperture values only valid with the lens set at infinity distance. Focus closer by and the apparent or geometric focal length increases and if you do not alter the aperture physically then the 'number' in 'f/number' actually mathematically goes up. Between infinity and a lens's closest focusing distance you may have a full EV of exposure difference, or more in the case of a macro lens. That's not interesting in individually measured stills, but it can mess with focus shift shooting or in shooting video on "full Manual" with your "focus puller" (that's a cinematography job title) focusing on something closer by during a take. Along these lines, a lens that has no focus breathing is actually a subtle zoom lens that compensates focusing closer by with shortening focal length. This probably also cancels out the aperture breathing.
(2) When you change focus or zoom, the you change volumes in lens/camera's internal spaces. This the alters pressure - your physics class in secondary school about Pressure, Volume, Temperature (PVT) - and as long as the gas is blown out, there is no issue, but when air is sucked into the lens, you may have some effect depending on temperature differences. Per PVT, making the volume smaller raises pressure and or temperature - I'm waiting for a physics teacher to figure this out for any lens design with a set of parameters to punch in.
As to (2), the weather sealing will keep water, and probably dust, out, but my assumption is that it will not (completely) prevent gases/air from going into and out of the lens. Such air movement, though, is a reason to keep the outside of the camera clean, especially near where it will breathe air, or tries to maintain pressure differences with the outside.
(*) A thermal is the rising hotter air relative to the surrounding air. It is used by glider aeroplanes to get to higher altitude. On hot days, you see the thermals in the landscape when, close to the earth's surface, you see movement of air because of the visual distortion the thermal gives. You don't see the gas molecules in the air, but rather the consequential optical distortion.
I have taken photos in Norway in -17 C the last couple of weeks. Not problem for the camera at all. But I try not to breath right onto the camera screen, EVF or lens glass, as my heated breath will turn to fog on the camera and freeze quickly. When I go outside I don't worry about a warm camera coming from inside. However, after photo session, before going back inside I first put my camera (Z8) in a soft and littlebit tightcamera bag with zipper, then I put that into my backpack (which is air tight/ waterproof) and roll it up and close it tight. I let some cold air into the backpack as well before closing. If I am eager to check my photos, I take out the memory card before getting inside. When coming home I leave the backpack on the floor for a couple of hours to acclimatize. It usually takes pretty long time (maybe 2-3 hours) before the camera body and lens has room temperature (about 20-24 C). By doing this I have absolutely no problem going out in extremely cold conditions, catching great photos and not making any harm to the camera or lens.
Hello, what a super series of videos. Simple but good
Excellent advice, thanks! I thought I had watched a similar, but more in depth video by you dealing with cleaning cameras and lenses, but I can no longer find it. Is it still available? Thanks again!
useful content.
Where can you buy these rain covers and do you need an eyepiece?
Are these raincovers available from Nikon website?
Hello i am having confusion about what type of lenses to use for wildlife videography do a tutorial plz on all lenses and their fuction when to use
Hello do you use the hair dryer on cold or hot setting?
Link to that z9 rain cover
How can you mount the Nikon Teflon raincovers on a z9?
Hi.
I am sorry for the time it took for us to reply.
In order for us to send you the instructions on how to mount a rain cover, please email Nikon support.
You can email the support team through this form: www.nikonimgsupport.com/eu/BV_ask_support?ctry=GB&lang=en_GB
Nice, but does it focus on your subject while it's raining??? What is the secret. The D850 works, the Z9 fails miserably!