Thank you, Tony! I watched the Park Tool chain length video and when Kevin said to put the open outer plates forward, I did. He then said to put the master link in place but that messed things up because the master link IS the outer plates. After watching your video, I removed the extra outer links so the master link joined two inner links. That worked. Thank you for covering this as my common sense was telling me Kevin was confusing things for me.
I'm not sure why others don't point out the derailleur angle, something I've noticed over the years of bike work. Thank you for your compliment. Also visit our RUclips home site at: ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed Regards and safe cycling, Tony
I try my best to show you what I've learned over many years. Also visit our RUclips home site at: ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thank you. Let me know how you make out. Also see our video on chain replacement: ruclips.net/video/02-WEIVoT78/видео.html And visit our RUclips home site at: ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed Regards and safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speed Thanks for the reply. I will let you know how it goes. Is it possible for me to count the chain links of the original chain and match with new chain?
Always a pleasure to watch a master at work. If only Tony was my neighbour. I’d love to see a video about preventing chain rub when the highest and lowest gear.
I assume you have the correct rear derailleur (short or long cage) with the right drivetrain capacity for your chain rings and rear cassette cogs. To determine the correct rear derailleur, see: www.mantel.com/blog/en/derailleur-capacity-maximum-techcenter The chain length will depend on the largest chain ring and largest cassette cog. The correct rear derailleur will take care of it's self, if it's the correct capacity for your drive train. Sounds odd, but true. Good question and the answer requires one delve into how the bicycle drivetrain works. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed Thanks for your comment. After read your message I started to think about it. I replaced a short cage with a medium. The short supports 11-28 where the medium supports 11-32. I have a medium with the 11-28. I would think that would work.
easy peasy on regular diamond frame bikes. I just bought a 3 speed recumbent trike and it is now a 20 speed . A regular diamond frame bike has about 114 links and my trike is a bit over 300! 10 speed chain is about half the weight of the 3 speed chain I took off.
Depends on the quick-link and the speed of the bike. The KMC 9 speed links are a breeze but the 11 and 12 speed may require a master link tool. Wipperman Connex master links are the easiest and can be installed and removed by hand (remember to use the master link for the speed of your bike 10,11 or 12 etc. and one from KMC or Conex that states that it is compatible with the chain manufacturer). Here's another way to install a master link: ruclips.net/video/-v4u9pkpIns/видео.html But make sure that the pins of the link are fully engaged on both sides. Here's a video on master link pliers: ruclips.net/video/x9Ri0p6bsNw/видео.html Hope this helps. Regards, Tony
I’ve been wrenching on my bikes for 40 years but never fail to learn something new from 10speed Tony, thanks. I’m planning to ride to Allentown from Brooklyn. As a Jersey boy could you recommend a road? Just give me your fav East-West road to work out a route.
Here's a plot to start with. I've only been on the roads from Manville, NJ to Milford, NJ and can not vouch for any other roads. It quite a distance. Good luck and safe cycling. www.google.com/maps/dir/New+York/Allentown,+Pennsylvania/@40.594811,-74.8942199,10.43z/data=!4m14!4m13!1m5!1m1!1s0x89c24fa5d33f083b:0xc80b8f06e177fe62!2m2!1d-74.0059728!2d40.7127753!1m5!1m1!1s0x89c439929f4adce1:0xeaf9df4b246824a1!2m2!1d-75.4714098!2d40.6022939!3e1
Some mechanics do that. But you must also check that when in the big cog and big chainring (a gear combination we usually avoid) that the derailleur jam (is a about a 45 degree angle).
Check that you have correctly adjusted the "b" screw. See: ruclips.net/video/UXnLJpTVFJ0/видео.html Make sure the rear derailleur limiting screws are adjusted properly. See: ruclips.net/video/J_bGEZky02k/видео.html Finally, either the chain is too long (not correctly sized as in the video) or the rear derailleur cage is too short. Have you made some changes to your bike? Did you swap the cassette for a larger one or change the chainrings to a different size? Let me know. Regards, Tony
Thanks Tony what i like about you your a honest man open to ideas of any easier tips but all I have seen in yours is both short and simple to follow very useful for bikers experienced and amateurs alike im glad you mentioned on the extra link on the particular shimano as I got 1 the same.
Most chains now come with a master link. You can still use the old method of partially removing a pin But the master link, if used correctly and snapped in, will give a more secure linkage and less chance of breakage. Since the use of masterlinks (also called quick links), I've rarely seen a snapped chain. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
You are probably fine if you remember not to accidently shift into the small / small where the chain will contact the rear derailleur which is not good for the chain or derailleur. But another effect may be "chain slap." Without enough tension on the rear derailleur pulleys due to "too long a chain", the rear derailleur swings back and forth, especially on rough roads, and excess chain will slap against the chain stay. Just some thoughts. Thanks for your comment and safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speed yes, I change from 42 to 44T biggest chainring, while the rest two are getting smaller (34 to 32T and 24 to 22T). If I shorten the chain, I'm afraid it is also not a good option since my largest chainring is getting bigger. Thus I prefer not to change my chain length
@@melisaangelina6408 When changing cassette size and/or chainring size, one must be aware of the drivetrain capacity. You may be exceeding the capacity of the rear derailleur to shift properly or to use all gear combinations. I suggest you read the following which (although long) will give you greater in site into how and when you can make such changes and the type of derailleur that will work the best: www.mantel.com/blog/en/derailleur-capacity-maximum-techcenter Learning how this all works can be fun if you want to take the time. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speed my RD, shimano tourney TY300, has maximum capacity of 43T (data from shimano website). mine is (44-22)+(28-14)=36T. Glad to read your suggested link, it expands my knowledge about bike drivetrain compatibilty. Thank you
Hi Tony what would you say about an 11 speed chain on an 10 speed Casett? I am building my first full suspension bike.I found a 2013 Kona Satori that has good bones , this is my second bike build, and I removed the front deraileur that controlled a 2X10 Crankset , it was a Shimano SLX M678 , and i installed a new Shimano M8000 Crankset with a 32t, FUNN Narrow wide chainring, that is able to use a 9,10,11,12 spd chain, and left the rear end alone with a Shimano SLX 10 spd rear deraileur and an 11-36t cassett, could i use? Or would the stock chain be long enough, to work on my new system? Or should the chain be longer? Basically i bought and cut a new Shimano HG56 10spd chain cut to the exact length as the origional a month ago,…then decided to just go ahead and rebuild and modernize the bike The stock 2x10 Crankset had a 26t and 38t chainring, and now i have a 32t narrow wide I have a few brand new 11spd chains, in case I should have the chain longer Sorry for the confusing question
The 11 speed chain is very close in overall width to the 10 speed and should work fine. Since the length was OK on the 2x10 26t and 38t, it should work as is with your new 32t narrow wide. Let me know how you make out. Regards, Tony
Can't you measure the chain using the smallest cog and smallest chainring and shortening it just enough so the chain doesn't rub against the pulley wheel?
The method of using the large chainring and large cog will work on both double and 1x front chainring setups with a few exceptions for mountain bikes with a clutch. On a front double, one can use small chainring / small cog as follows: With the chain threaded through the rear derailleur, and around the smallest cog and small chainring, pull both ends of the chain together until you get some tension in the rear derailleur cage. This is the point at which you want to cut the chain. You should have approximately 10 mm of clearance between the chain wrapped around the upper jockey wheel and lower run of chain. Ensure you cut the link with one “wide” and one “narrow” end remaining, if you’re using a pin. Make sure the chain has two “narrow” ends if you’re using a quick link.
There are some exceptions when considering SRAM derailleurs on a 1x chainring, if you have a front chain guide and with rear suspensions. See: ruclips.net/video/O0YibMDWBAw/видео.html
You made a rookie mistake when placing the chain through the derailleur. You passed over the tab below de guide pulley which will be rubbing against. I think you should put a tag oin the video advising of it, as you edited it later. Anyway good video.
Good observation!! That's what happens when you're in a rush. Unfortunately, once published, RUclips no longer allow you to edit (and add) to your video. I'll put in a "card" that will suggest the viewer see the following video: ruclips.net/video/02-WEIVoT78/видео.html Thanks and safe cycling, Tony
Thank you, Tony! I watched the Park Tool chain length video and when Kevin said to put the open outer plates forward, I did. He then said to put the master link in place but that messed things up because the master link IS the outer plates. After watching your video, I removed the extra outer links so the master link joined two inner links. That worked. Thank you for covering this as my common sense was telling me Kevin was confusing things for me.
You are very welcome. I think Kevin's video needs more clarity. Regards, Tony
thanks! this is the only video I could find that references specifically a triple crankset.
You're Welcome. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thanks Tony. Super helpful. You explained about derailleur angle which nobody else touched on.
I'm not sure why others don't point out the derailleur angle, something I've noticed over the years of bike work. Thank you for your compliment. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thank you Tony, You are a master at the bike en techniek.
I try my best to show you what I've learned over many years. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Great explanations!! Now I will attempt to change chain.
Thank you. Let me know how you make out. Also see our video on chain replacement:
ruclips.net/video/02-WEIVoT78/видео.html
And visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speed Thanks for the reply. I will let you know how it goes. Is it possible for me to count the chain links of the original chain and match with new chain?
@@dido1803 Yes. You should take into account any master link as shown in the video I referred to.
Always a pleasure to watch a master at work. If only Tony was my neighbour.
I’d love to see a video about preventing chain rub when the highest and lowest gear.
Thank you. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Tony, enjoyed your video. Does you method allow for small, medium or large derailleur? I would think that would impact the chain length. Thank you.
I assume you have the correct rear derailleur (short or long cage) with the right drivetrain capacity for your chain rings and rear cassette cogs. To determine the correct rear derailleur, see:
www.mantel.com/blog/en/derailleur-capacity-maximum-techcenter
The chain length will depend on the largest chain ring and largest cassette cog. The correct rear derailleur will take care of it's self, if it's the correct capacity for your drive train. Sounds odd, but true. Good question and the answer requires one delve into how the bicycle drivetrain works. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed Thanks for your comment. After read your message I started to think about it. I replaced a short cage with a medium. The short supports 11-28 where the medium supports 11-32. I have a medium with the 11-28. I would think that would work.
@@bobscharle1233 It should with the right length chain.
Thank you for taking the time to assist. I really appreciate it.
easy peasy on regular diamond frame bikes. I just bought a 3 speed recumbent trike and it is now a 20 speed . A regular diamond frame bike has about 114 links and my trike is a bit over 300! 10 speed chain is about half the weight of the 3 speed chain I took off.
It must be my technique but the quick-links I have installed sure don't snap into place like yours did. You made it look awfully easy.
Depends on the quick-link and the speed of the bike. The KMC 9 speed links are a breeze but the 11 and 12 speed may require a master link tool. Wipperman Connex master links are the easiest and can be installed and removed by hand (remember to use the master link for the speed of your bike 10,11 or 12 etc. and one from KMC or Conex that states that it is compatible with the chain manufacturer).
Here's another way to install a master link:
ruclips.net/video/-v4u9pkpIns/видео.html
But make sure that the pins of the link are fully engaged on both sides.
Here's a video on master link pliers:
ruclips.net/video/x9Ri0p6bsNw/видео.html
Hope this helps. Regards, Tony
I’ve been wrenching on my bikes for 40 years but never fail to learn something new from 10speed Tony, thanks.
I’m planning to ride to Allentown from Brooklyn. As a Jersey boy could you recommend a road? Just give me your fav East-West road to work out a route.
Here's a plot to start with. I've only been on the roads from Manville, NJ to Milford, NJ and can not vouch for any other roads. It quite a distance. Good luck and safe cycling.
www.google.com/maps/dir/New+York/Allentown,+Pennsylvania/@40.594811,-74.8942199,10.43z/data=!4m14!4m13!1m5!1m1!1s0x89c24fa5d33f083b:0xc80b8f06e177fe62!2m2!1d-74.0059728!2d40.7127753!1m5!1m1!1s0x89c439929f4adce1:0xeaf9df4b246824a1!2m2!1d-75.4714098!2d40.6022939!3e1
@@tony10speed
Thanks. Rte 12 looks good.
Why not just adjust chain length so the chain is just shy of rubbing the upper jockey wheel when in small chainring & small sprocket?
Some mechanics do that. But you must also check that when in the big cog and big chainring (a gear combination we usually avoid) that the derailleur jam (is a about a 45 degree angle).
How do you resolve the chain rubbing as you just mentioned if the chain is not too long but still touches the jockey wheels.
Check that you have correctly adjusted the "b" screw. See:
ruclips.net/video/UXnLJpTVFJ0/видео.html
Make sure the rear derailleur limiting screws are adjusted properly. See:
ruclips.net/video/J_bGEZky02k/видео.html
Finally, either the chain is too long (not correctly sized as in the video) or the rear derailleur cage is too short. Have you made some changes to your bike? Did you swap the cassette for a larger one or change the chainrings to a different size? Let me know. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed Hi, it was running fine this happened over time when riding the bike.
@@tony10speed Sorry, thank you for the reply. Much appreciated.
@@marvellousmusic4336 Is this happening when you're in the small chainring or large chainring or both?
@@tony10speed Hi thank you for replying, I will let you know tomorrow because its my friends bike that I worked on a while ago.
thank you Sir for sharing this useful video
You're Welcome. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Well done 🙌
Thank you. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thanks for a wonderful video very detailed,and helpful I learned alot
You're Welcome. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Great explanation, thanks sir 👍👍
You're Welcome. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thankyou for sharing this.
You're Welcome. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Very informative, thank you.
You're Welcome. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thanks Tony what i like about you your a honest man open to ideas of any easier tips but all I have seen in yours is both short and simple to follow very useful for bikers experienced and amateurs alike im glad you mentioned on the extra link on the particular shimano as I got 1 the same.
I appreciate that! Regards, Tony
Do you always use a master link? What happened to partially removing a pin using that to snap the chain to the other end?
Most chains now come with a master link. You can still use the old method of partially removing a pin But the master link, if used correctly and snapped in, will give a more secure linkage and less chance of breakage. Since the use of masterlinks (also called quick links), I've rarely seen a snapped chain. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
whats the effect when we use too long chain for daily use? I never use the smallest chainring-smallest sprocket combination
You are probably fine if you remember not to accidently shift into the small / small where the chain will contact the rear derailleur which is not good for the chain or derailleur. But another effect may be "chain slap." Without enough tension on the rear derailleur pulleys due to "too long a chain", the rear derailleur swings back and forth, especially on rough roads, and excess chain will slap against the chain stay. Just some thoughts. Thanks for your comment and safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speed yes, I change from 42 to 44T biggest chainring, while the rest two are getting smaller (34 to 32T and 24 to 22T). If I shorten the chain, I'm afraid it is also not a good option since my largest chainring is getting bigger. Thus I prefer not to change my chain length
@@melisaangelina6408 When changing cassette size and/or chainring size, one must be aware of the drivetrain capacity. You may be exceeding the capacity of the rear derailleur to shift properly or to use all gear combinations. I suggest you read the following which (although long) will give you greater in site into how and when you can make such changes and the type of derailleur that will work the best:
www.mantel.com/blog/en/derailleur-capacity-maximum-techcenter
Learning how this all works can be fun if you want to take the time. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speed my RD, shimano tourney TY300, has maximum capacity of 43T (data from shimano website). mine is (44-22)+(28-14)=36T.
Glad to read your suggested link, it expands my knowledge about bike drivetrain compatibilty. Thank you
Hi Tony what would you say about an 11 speed chain on an 10 speed Casett? I am building my first full suspension bike.I found a 2013 Kona Satori that has good bones , this is my second bike build, and I removed the front deraileur that controlled a 2X10 Crankset , it was a Shimano SLX M678 , and i installed a new Shimano M8000 Crankset with a 32t, FUNN Narrow wide chainring, that is able to use a 9,10,11,12 spd chain, and left the rear end alone with a Shimano SLX 10 spd rear deraileur and an 11-36t cassett, could i use? Or would the stock chain be long enough, to work on my new system? Or should the chain be longer? Basically i bought and cut a new Shimano HG56 10spd chain cut to the exact length as the origional a month ago,…then decided to just go ahead and rebuild and modernize the bike
The stock 2x10 Crankset had a 26t and 38t chainring, and now i have a 32t narrow wide
I have a few brand new 11spd chains, in case I should have the chain longer
Sorry for the confusing question
The 11 speed chain is very close in overall width to the 10 speed and should work fine. Since the length was OK on the 2x10 26t and 38t, it should work as is with your new 32t narrow wide. Let me know how you make out. Regards, Tony
Can't you measure the chain using the smallest cog and smallest chainring and shortening it just enough so the chain doesn't rub against the pulley wheel?
The method of using the large chainring and large cog will work on both double and 1x front chainring setups with a few exceptions for mountain bikes with a clutch. On a front double, one can use small chainring / small cog as follows:
With the chain threaded through the rear derailleur, and around the smallest cog and small chainring, pull both ends of the chain together until you get some tension in the rear derailleur cage. This is the point at which you want to cut the chain. You should have approximately 10 mm of clearance between the chain wrapped around the upper jockey wheel and lower run of chain. Ensure you cut the link with one “wide” and one “narrow” end remaining, if you’re using a pin. Make sure the chain has two “narrow” ends if you’re using a quick link.
Outstanding!
Thank you. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Does this work on all bikes?
There are some exceptions when considering SRAM derailleurs on a 1x chainring, if you have a front chain guide and with rear suspensions. See:
ruclips.net/video/O0YibMDWBAw/видео.html
You made a rookie mistake when placing the chain through the derailleur. You passed over the tab below de guide pulley which will be rubbing against. I think you should put a tag oin the video advising of it, as you edited it later. Anyway good video.
Good observation!! That's what happens when you're in a rush. Unfortunately, once published, RUclips no longer allow you to edit (and add) to your video. I'll put in a "card" that will suggest the viewer see the following video:
ruclips.net/video/02-WEIVoT78/видео.html
Thanks and safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speed It has happened to everyone at least once! Thanks and keep with your channel!