I so very much appreciate this video. So simply laid out. So thoughtful! Thank you. Thank you so much for not selling anything and for direct, exceptional teaching.
I know this is an old video but I just started using these types of hinges and this video was perfect! Very clear and explained everything I needed to know perfectly!
Great video. I’m a carpenter. I’d like to share why and how to install an 1.5 inch thick open slat door as an inset when the hinge market is geared to address 3/4 inch thick doors. 1st, the only way to address a thicker door for function, is recessed. Second, the hinge needs to be recessed in the door in exact placement and distance from the face of the door and cabinet as a 3/4 inch door would need it to be. A double recessed of sort. So a 1.5 inch thick door operating with inset or recess hinge has to have a recessed hinge from the back of the door, 3/4 inch further toward the front with modification so the neck of the hinge passes freely through the hinge side freely. This applies to the case when the face has the same profile open slat as the door for uniformity of the entire front of the cabinet including face and the door are uniformly open slat on the entire front of the cabinet. Just sharing and I’m not sure if I didn’t fumble my meaning.
Another great video Jason. I'm going to be installing these types of hinges for the first time and after your video, I'm confident that I know what I'm doing. Thanks so much.
Great video, it's the small comments like the thickness of the door/to set back. I almost set mine back a standard depth when I realised my doors were 25mm thick. Well, you could say they would have stood out! When not fitting doors often, this is a good refresher course. ACE
Thanks so much. I am a beginner and have discovered the ease and quality of the Blum system. These videos clarify things tremendously and teach people like me what to look out for. Please keep the videos coming!
Well done Jason. I've never installed inset doors, only overlay. Now I have the confidence to do them for my workshop cabinets which I'm in the middle of changing.
Great tutorial as usual! Those woodpecker Paolini squares are awesome. So versatile. And for those of you who try this w/o self centering drill bits, expect to be disappointed. Now matter how accurate you think you are free hand, you'll see the hinge jut to one side or another as you drive in the screw. That's called the OHNO Second. The split second before you realize you made a mistake and it's going to cost you! :) If you have to redrill, keep some wooden toothpicks around. You can glue the toothpick in to the defunct screw hole and try again. Also, most cheap hinges come with GARBAGE screws. Just throw out the pack and get some quality screws. It'll keep you from filling up your swear-jar! LOL.
As a Canadian I can easily switch between metric and imperial. I think of speed in kilometers/hour I think of height in Feet/inches I think of interior temperature in Fahrenheit I think of outdoor temperature in Celsius I encourage all woodworkers to start using the metric system for their projects. Switching to metric for woodworking increased my accuracy enormously. It also largely eliminated nearly all measuring errors for me. No more fractions, no more 3/32 of an inch. Metric woodworking is like easy-mode.
I grew up in the UK in the 70's which is when the switch to metric started. The UK has never fully embraced metric so we now have a weird hybrid. I think in Miles per hour. I'll say someone is 6ft 2 inches but I'll measure my projects in metric. Temperatures used to be spoken of in Fahrenheit but now celsius is easier to understand. Fuel is offered in litres but car performance is still measured in miles per gallon. I think that is a deliberate smoke screen by car manufacturers and the government. For wood and metal work, metric is the only way to go. All those fractions are headache inducing. Much easier to say 60mm or 300mm. It's also easier when using computer design packages like photoshop, illustrator or affinity.
I'm a Canadian engineer. Anything that needs precision is in metric. I've worked with american engineers that will never use the imperial system. When I woodwork, why would I want extra steps dealing with fractions?
I wish I would have known this. I had a small built-in cabinet I could have used these hinges on. I looked but couldn't find any. I assumed they didn't make any euro inset hinges. So I went with full overlay hinges. It came out nice but I would have preferred the inset ones. Thank you for sharing.
Great Video, Easy to understand even with the metric measurements lol. I’ve never built cabinets or hung doors before. I’m designing and building out my garage work shop for the first time. I love the inset door look. I imagine inset doors would keep dust from settling on top of the door if they were set outside the frame.
Man I could have used this video a few weeks ago when installed my first pair of inset doors on a project for my wife. I ended up making my own template. I have 18 doors to mount in some new shop cabinets and will definitely recheck with what you have shared!
Thanks for a very clear, easy explanation of how to do this. I am building a garage storage cart that doubles as a work top for my wife's gardening work and I want to have inset cabinet doors and drawers, so this is perfect. Thank you!
Well done Bent. Information is solid and the cadence and tone of your presentaion is solid as well. I've a bunch of older hinges of mixed brands that I want to consume for a garage project. Finding it very hard to find tab info and plate size choices. I'd like to see a video where one intentionally gets the tab wrong, the repercussions and solutions of doing so.
These are my favorite videos of yours that you do. You have such a great way of explaining things. Your cabinet basics video is still one of my favorite woodworking videos on RUclips.
Nice informative video. A while back, say four years ago, I bought a bag full @ a garage sale, knowing someday I would build cabinets in my future shop. That was 2015. Now building the shop, found the bag with no idea how to accurately install them. Now I can Thanks
Wonderful video! Simple and to the point. Thanks for sharing. I typically don’t use inset hinges so a quick refresher on measurements and process was perfect.
I really get a little peeved at the people who accuse you of clickbait. I have yet to watch a video from you where you didn’t take a task that seems so intimidating and break it down in a way where anyone can understand. This was another one of those videos and as always, thanks!
I have an old drexel dresser with these style hinges that are old and huge with a few broken ones and want to upgrade them to this style with soft close. Thanks for explaining this, need to make a jig now and a few test pieces.
Jason, thanks for this video! Huge help! Quick question: did you strike a line at 100mm on the cabinet and 98mm on the doors for the 2mm reveals? Thats the only part I’m still slightly confused on.
Great explanation. Have you ever used soft-close Blum hinges together with Tip On/Push to open? Seems like I should follow your steps, except have the hinge plate 2mm forward to allow for the Push to Open spring to be pressed.
What do you do for very thick doors ? We had to put some spacer underneath the base because the door was rubbing on the side wall of the cabinet where the hinges bases are, even at maximum possible setting on the hinge adjustment. There was not enough adjustment to move it away from the cabinet wall. It looks like these hinges are made for standard door thickness and anything very thick like solid wood does not fit.
So jealous of your tools which allow perfection! Never seen a drill press with a fence! BTw, I'd love to do everything in metric, but in America suppliers make everything in inches and it's not as easy to convert to fractions. Going to search for your video on how to make those cabinets. So clean and elegant looking.
Clamp a straight edge to your drill press table… same thing. Second… he is an American… he’s actually active duty Army. Imperial to metric is easy. 1 inch is equal to 25.4mm. 1/2” therefore = 12.7mm. 3/8” is equal to .375” so multiple 25.4 x .375 which gives you 9.525mm.
I love Americans using the Imperial system still. They are more imperial than Britain. We have to use both because of the EU. I still think Imperial personally.
Just about to do my first set ever, in glad I've ordered a gauge. My doors will be inset on a faceframe but the faceframe hinge mounting plates are impossible to get in the UK so in going to just pack out the mounting surface flush with the faceframe edge and use normal inset hinges. That's the plan anyway 🤞
I am just trying to find a replacement hinge for framed inset cabinets. 9 years old. It seems impossible. Been trying to find some for months. The hinge company no longer makes them.
Jason great video I’ve been putting concealed soft close hinges in my kitchen cabinets do you know a good hinge that doesn’t leave such a large gap at the back (space between the cabinet and back lip
Fantastic video. Thank you so much. I am working on a cabinet that will have doors with glass. Ideally the door frame will be only 1" wide all the way around. Is it possible to find inset hinges that would work with a door frame that is only 1" wide? I am talking about the place on the door where you have to use the drill press to drill the hole that the hinge sits in. All of the inset hinges that I have seen are larger than that. I was wondering if they even make them small enough to work with a door frame that is only 1" wide. Do you know?
Hello. I really enjoyed your well elucidated and informative presentation. I understood everything except when you said I have to deduct 2mm from 100mm for locating the hinge. You also said because we need 2mm gap for the top. I do not see the logic between the location of the hinge and the gap above. Please explain. Next question. Can I use that hinge for other than inset cases ? I appreciate in advance for your expert opinion.
I have to replace my self centering bit, have you found a quality one other than Festool? Thanks in advance. I could not find a name by searching your channel.
Great tutorial! Question: with the 5mm tab that creates a 2mm reveal. How adjustable is that with the blue 110 clip top inset hinges? It’s unfortunate that they cant adjust how much the hinge closes so that it doesn’t need that stop glued onto the top or bottom of the cabinet. I realize there is a lot going on in a small space, but at least they could make it stop at 90 degrees to the mounting plate.
Hey, just wanted to thank you for this and other videos about Blum hardware. While it's a quality product, the instructions are TERRIBLE, and the company is no help. neither is Woodcraft, who sold me these hinges. Their suggestion was to make a bunch of scraps to the exact size you need, then experiment. Like we have time for that! You got me through this with a minimum of sweat. Thank you!
What is the purpose of setting up the "5mm tab"? Is it to allow clearance for the inset door to clear the adjacent surface? What kind of gap or reveal does this leave for the hinge side of the door? The reason I ask is because Blum's instructions for this hinge allows for a 3mm - 6mm setback for the hinge cup. Also, since your using Baltic birch plywood it's not a true 3/4" thick. I've read that for a 3/4" door the hinge plates need to be set back 57.5mm to keep them from being proud of the cabinet face. Have you found that to be the case? I'm about to use these hinges for the first time ...
The purpose of using the set back of your using 3/4 or 18mm material is to allow the hinge cup to be set back enough to not create tear out on the door material. The force is being hinged at two points. If the setback were less the force of leverage would tear out the hinge. This is why the 5’mm set back is called for. Hopefully this answers your question. Visual: Just imagine the cup sitting 1/8th or 1mm from the edge. It would tear out to the front of the door because of the leveraging force.
Do I need to drill the hinge cup on the door, or can I put it on the Cabinet? I have 1/2" drawer and realize most hinge cups are deeper, or same depth, of that size
Extremely informative video. Thanks. So the same euro hinges can be used for either full frame or inset right? All that differs is the setback for the inside piece.
So if I wanted to actually recess my door a little bit, would I have to get a hinge that would include the extra space. For example if my door was .75 in but I wanted it recesses another .25 -.5 would I actually need a hinge made for 1 - 1.25 inch. Sorry if this is a dumb question
When does the use of a third hinge come into play, as it relates to the door height? I’m sure weight and width are factored in. But I have some frameless cabinets that will have full overlay doors that are 18” wide, made of 3/4” thick CVG Fir plywood. Should I use three hinges?
So I have inset hinges but they look very different from those. They're sort of the older style hinge where you put the 2 screws on the exterior of the face frame. When I bought these I thought they were kind of a regular hinge and I liked it because them do to the spring tension. I thought that would help it stay closed etc. The challeng is that I built a maple frame on my cabinets and I was thinking of using a 5/8 Maple framed doors with 1/2 dadoed Birch on the inside. I think I might have to mill it down to size to make it flush with the frame which looks like the door should be roughly 1/4th thick, seems to skinny of a door? Sorry this is sort of hard to explain without seeing these hinges.🤷🏽♂️ I might return them. Okay I think I found what I need to do. Looks like I need to cut a data to make these fit properly. Scroll to about 11 minutes in and she explains it pretty clearly. I think I got this. Hope this helped someone and greet video brother! ruclips.net/video/nkHvgTH_Oj4/видео.html
That's what I don't quite get either. This video uses a Rockler jig for setting the base plate distance (another video uses a generic template), but is each hinge manufacturer using an identical standardized plate for inset applications? The instructions for the Salice hinges I bought at Menards say to assemble the hinge to plate, hold the door in place, and mark the plate location. With a single door cabinet I don't know how you hold the door closed in place with the gaps correct and mark anything inside the cabinet. Going to try a mockup out of scrap to try and determine the setback distance.
Hi Jason, I am looking at making some cabinets with a face frame but also having the doors inset into the face frame. Is this something you have tried before, if so what hinges did you use. Cheers Derek.
There are many options but this is just one example www.rockler.com/blum-120-inset-clip-top-3-way-face-frame-hinges?country=US&sid=V91040&promo=shopping&PL&gclid=Cj0KCQjwh_eFBhDZARIsALHjIKeZCPx__LdB9Aow7zapBxDWeYEOjPhr2gecLMqNOrp1AACuYeAxFLAaAgTSEALw_wcB
![How to fit concealed (Euro-style) hinges for overlay & inset cabinet doors [video # 348]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/-Y6MEQlFEhQ/mqdefault.jpg)
This is hands down the clearest video showing inset door installation.
I so very much appreciate this video. So simply laid out. So thoughtful! Thank you. Thank you so much for not selling anything and for direct, exceptional teaching.
Glad it was helpful!
Finally someone using the correct measurement MM AND CM THANKS A LOT
You’re welcome
@@bentswoodworking p p 4:16 😅
I know this is an old video but I just started using these types of hinges and this video was perfect! Very clear and explained everything I needed to know perfectly!
Glad it was helpful!
I've never built a cabinet nor its doors but your method of explaining gives me the confidence that I could do it.
5-Star rated video on the how to install these hinges!
By far, the best video on hinge installation. I watched 10 videos before this one.
After two failed attempts to install Soss hinges, this video was exactly what I needed to see. Thanks!
Glad you found it helpful
Great video. I’m a carpenter. I’d like to share why and how to install an 1.5 inch thick open slat door as an inset when the hinge market is geared to address 3/4 inch thick doors. 1st, the only way to address a thicker door for function, is recessed. Second, the hinge needs to be recessed in the door in exact placement and distance from the face of the door and cabinet as a 3/4 inch door would need it to be. A double recessed of sort. So a 1.5 inch thick door operating with inset or recess hinge has to have a recessed hinge from the back of the door, 3/4 inch further toward the front with modification so the neck of the hinge passes freely through the hinge side freely. This applies to the case when the face has the same profile open slat as the door for uniformity of the entire front of the cabinet including face and the door are uniformly open slat on the entire front of the cabinet. Just sharing and I’m not sure if I didn’t fumble my meaning.
Thank you for sharing
Thank you so much! That was a straightforward, easy to understand demonstration.
OMG. I'm not even 2 mins in and I've learned so much.....lol. Thank you. The title is what brought me to ur vid. Great job. Ok lemme finish.
Glad to hear
Very helpful! Best and clearest explanation I've seen.
Great to hear!
Another great video Jason. I'm going to be installing these types of hinges for the first time and after your video, I'm confident that I know what I'm doing. Thanks so much.
Thank you Jason, very clear on how to install these inset hinges!
Thank you for your time and effort to make this video and share your knowledge with us. Greetings from Croatia.
Great video, it's the small comments like the thickness of the door/to set back. I almost set mine back a standard depth when I realised my doors were 25mm thick. Well, you could say they would have stood out!
When not fitting doors often, this is a good refresher course. ACE
Thanks so much. I am a beginner and have discovered the ease and quality of the Blum system. These videos clarify things tremendously and teach people like me what to look out for. Please keep the videos coming!
Well done Jason. I've never installed inset doors, only overlay. Now I have the confidence to do them for my workshop cabinets which I'm in the middle of changing.
You will have to tell me how it goes 👍👍
Good tutorial...well demonstrated. Using the metric system really simplifies the procedure/ installation.
Glad you enjoyed it
Great tutorial as usual! Those woodpecker Paolini squares are awesome. So versatile. And for those of you who try this w/o self centering drill bits, expect to be disappointed. Now matter how accurate you think you are free hand, you'll see the hinge jut to one side or another as you drive in the screw. That's called the OHNO Second. The split second before you realize you made a mistake and it's going to cost you! :) If you have to redrill, keep some wooden toothpicks around. You can glue the toothpick in to the defunct screw hole and try again. Also, most cheap hinges come with GARBAGE screws. Just throw out the pack and get some quality screws. It'll keep you from filling up your swear-jar! LOL.
This is perfect, and the title cannot be more accurate. Thank you sir
As a Canadian I can easily switch between metric and imperial.
I think of speed in kilometers/hour
I think of height in Feet/inches
I think of interior temperature in Fahrenheit
I think of outdoor temperature in Celsius
I encourage all woodworkers to start using the metric system for their projects. Switching to metric for woodworking increased my accuracy enormously. It also largely eliminated nearly all measuring errors for me. No more fractions, no more 3/32 of an inch. Metric woodworking is like easy-mode.
I grew up in the UK in the 70's which is when the switch to metric started. The UK has never fully embraced metric so we now have a weird hybrid. I think in Miles per hour. I'll say someone is 6ft 2 inches but I'll measure my projects in metric. Temperatures used to be spoken of in Fahrenheit but now celsius is easier to understand. Fuel is offered in litres but car performance is still measured in miles per gallon. I think that is a deliberate smoke screen by car manufacturers and the government.
For wood and metal work, metric is the only way to go. All those fractions are headache inducing. Much easier to say 60mm or 300mm. It's also easier when using computer design packages like photoshop, illustrator or affinity.
I'm a Canadian engineer. Anything that needs precision is in metric. I've worked with american engineers that will never use the imperial system. When I woodwork, why would I want extra steps dealing with fractions?
I still think in miles per hour and human weight as stones and pounds. If someone says someone is 300 kgs I am lost. Yeah 6 ' 4" is great for height.
I wish I would have known this. I had a small built-in cabinet I could have used these hinges on. I looked but couldn't find any. I assumed they didn't make any euro inset hinges. So I went with full overlay hinges. It came out nice but I would have preferred the inset ones. Thank you for sharing.
Great Video, Easy to understand even with the metric measurements lol. I’ve never built cabinets or hung doors before. I’m designing and building out my garage work shop for the first time. I love the inset door look. I imagine inset doors would keep dust from settling on top of the door if they were set outside the frame.
Man I could have used this video a few weeks ago when installed my first pair of inset doors on a project for my wife. I ended up making my own template. I have 18 doors to mount in some new shop cabinets and will definitely recheck with what you have shared!
Glad you found it helpful
That hinge mounting jig from Rockler is the way to go. Cost about $8.
Another solid video. Thanks for your clear explanation as always!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for a very clear, easy explanation of how to do this. I am building a garage storage cart that doubles as a work top for my wife's gardening work and I want to have inset cabinet doors and drawers, so this is perfect. Thank you!
Thanks for providing the close up!
Well done Bent. Information is solid and the cadence and tone of your presentaion is solid as well. I've a bunch of older hinges of mixed brands that I want to consume for a garage project. Finding it very hard to find tab info and plate size choices. I'd like to see a video where one intentionally gets the tab wrong, the repercussions and solutions of doing so.
That’s a great idea for a video
Fantastic Bent! Thank you fir all of your helpful info over the years. Hinges have always been my nemesis. Tomorrow we conquer the inset hinge!
Hope it goes well for you
These are my favorite videos of yours that you do. You have such a great way of explaining things. Your cabinet basics video is still one of my favorite woodworking videos on RUclips.
Nice informative video. A while back, say four years ago, I bought a bag full @ a garage sale, knowing someday I would build cabinets in my future shop. That was 2015. Now building the shop, found the bag with no idea how to accurately install them. Now I can Thanks
Glad you found it helpful
Wonderful video! Simple and to the point. Thanks for sharing. I typically don’t use inset hinges so a quick refresher on measurements and process was perfect.
Glad you found it helpful
I really get a little peeved at the people who accuse you of clickbait. I have yet to watch a video from you where you didn’t take a task that seems so intimidating and break it down in a way where anyone can understand. This was another one of those videos and as always, thanks!
I have an old drexel dresser with these style hinges that are old and huge with a few broken ones and want to upgrade them to this style with soft close. Thanks for explaining this, need to make a jig now and a few test pieces.
Glad you found it helpful
Another great vid sir. Extremely easy to understand for newcomers such as me. Cheers
Glad you found it helpful
Thanks, great explanation and visual. You truly make it look doable!
Glad you found it helpful
Thank you for this detailed video. This was extremely helpful.
You are amazing for this. My goodness thank you so much
Great job, I was able to set two doors on a TV cabinet. Thanks!!!!
Excelend video, I was see many videos of this kind, but any with this clear instrucctions.
Congrats continue with this great work.
Regards
Thank you. Glad you found it helpful
Jason, thanks for this video! Huge help! Quick question: did you strike a line at 100mm on the cabinet and 98mm on the doors for the 2mm reveals? Thats the only part I’m still slightly confused on.
Thank you so much. My stress level about my project went from 1000 to about 50.
Glad to hear it
Great explanation. Have you ever used soft-close Blum hinges together with Tip On/Push to open? Seems like I should follow your steps, except have the hinge plate 2mm forward to allow for the Push to Open spring to be pressed.
Great instructions!!! Simple hinges to install.. Thanks.
You’re welcome
Great video. Surprised that you did not use the LR32 system to drill the hinge holes. Keep the great stuff coming.
Gotta show different ways 👍
What do you do for very thick doors ? We had to put some spacer underneath the base because the door was rubbing on the side wall of the cabinet where the hinges bases are, even at maximum possible setting on the hinge adjustment. There was not enough adjustment to move it away from the cabinet wall. It looks like these hinges are made for standard door thickness and anything very thick like solid wood does not fit.
So jealous of your tools which allow perfection! Never seen a drill press with a fence!
BTw, I'd love to do everything in metric, but in America suppliers make everything in inches and it's not as easy to convert to fractions.
Going to search for your video on how to make those cabinets. So clean and elegant looking.
Clamp a straight edge to your drill press table… same thing. Second… he is an American… he’s actually active duty Army. Imperial to metric is easy. 1 inch is equal to 25.4mm. 1/2” therefore = 12.7mm. 3/8” is equal to .375” so multiple 25.4 x .375 which gives you 9.525mm.
I love Americans using the Imperial system still. They are more imperial than Britain. We have to use both because of the EU. I still think Imperial personally.
Fantastic video!
How about inset with 1/2 overlay? I wish you would have put the door stop blocks at the top out of the way. Great Video!
Just about to do my first set ever, in glad I've ordered a gauge. My doors will be inset on a faceframe but the faceframe hinge mounting plates are impossible to get in the UK so in going to just pack out the mounting surface flush with the faceframe edge and use normal inset hinges. That's the plan anyway 🤞
Good luck 👍
Awesome video. Do you think you could do another video of the other hinges you were talking about thanks.
I do have another video about them. It’s one of my older ones. It’s also linked in the top right corner of the video when I mention it
Thank you for very precise imfo. It helped me a lot.
Glad you found it helpful
Well done. Helpful lesson; thank you.
very helpful, thanks for sharing
Extremely helpful thank you!
Glad it helped!
I am just trying to find a replacement hinge for framed inset cabinets. 9 years old. It seems impossible. Been trying to find some for months. The hinge company no longer makes them.
Jason great video I’ve been putting concealed soft close hinges in my kitchen cabinets do you know a good hinge that doesn’t leave such a large gap at the back (space between the cabinet and back lip
I pretty much only use Blum
Thanks for sharing. Could the stop be put on top so doesn't get in the way...and lot less noticeable?
It could yes
Very interesting and informative video! Thanks for posting..... 👍👍👏👏😉😉
You’re welcome
How does this work with partial inset cabinet doors?
Not sure what you mean by partial inset
Hi appreciate your advice so I have to made adjustment for the thickness of the door?
what if the door is 1/2 in, whats the depth of the hinge inset on the door
Fantastic video. Thank you so much. I am working on a cabinet that will have doors with glass. Ideally the door frame will be only 1" wide all the way around. Is it possible to find inset hinges that would work with a door frame that is only 1" wide? I am talking about the place on the door where you have to use the drill press to drill the hole that the hinge sits in. All of the inset hinges that I have seen are larger than that. I was wondering if they even make them small enough to work with a door frame that is only 1" wide. Do you know?
Awesome video! What kind of pulls were used?
Don’t know the exact name but I got them from Menards
@@bentswoodworkingGotcha, thank you
Thank you for using metric!
perfect video, thanks so much.
You're welcome!
Hello. I really enjoyed your well elucidated and informative presentation. I understood everything except when you said I have to deduct 2mm from 100mm for locating the hinge. You also said because we need 2mm gap for the top. I do not see the logic between the location of the hinge and the gap above. Please explain. Next question. Can I use that hinge for other than inset cases ? I appreciate in advance for your expert opinion.
What's the drill bit called, the one that makes the hole? Also, Can it be bought as a bit for a regular drill or router?
Nicely done.
Thank you
Please tell me what size hole that has to befor the door ?
I have to replace my self centering bit, have you found a quality one other than Festool? Thanks in advance. I could not find a name by searching your channel.
I have the Rockler Insty-drive bits and they work well
Good stuff, thank you for the great video!
You’re welcome
Great tutorial! Question: with the 5mm tab that creates a 2mm reveal. How adjustable is that with the blue 110 clip top inset hinges? It’s unfortunate that they cant adjust how much the hinge closes so that it doesn’t need that stop glued onto the top or bottom of the cabinet. I realize there is a lot going on in a small space, but at least they could make it stop at 90 degrees to the mounting plate.
What brand of hinges did you use?
Blum
Awesome Jason
Whats the name and model of the hinges?
Hey, just wanted to thank you for this and other videos about Blum hardware. While it's a quality product, the instructions are TERRIBLE, and the company is no help. neither is Woodcraft, who sold me these hinges. Their suggestion was to make a bunch of scraps to the exact size you need, then experiment. Like we have time for that! You got me through this with a minimum of sweat. Thank you!
What is the purpose of setting up the "5mm tab"? Is it to allow clearance for the inset door to clear the adjacent surface? What kind of gap or reveal does this leave for the hinge side of the door? The reason I ask is because Blum's instructions for this hinge allows for a 3mm - 6mm setback for the hinge cup. Also, since your using Baltic birch plywood it's not a true 3/4" thick. I've read that for a 3/4" door the hinge plates need to be set back 57.5mm to keep them from being proud of the cabinet face. Have you found that to be the case?
I'm about to use these hinges for the first time ...
Hinges is a complicated topic at times. What I recommend is to try setting them up as a test first so you know what to expect
The purpose of using the set back of your using 3/4 or 18mm material is to allow the hinge cup to be set back enough to not create tear out on the door material. The force is being hinged at two points. If the setback were less the force of leverage would tear out the hinge. This is why the 5’mm set back is called for. Hopefully this answers your question.
Visual:
Just imagine the cup sitting 1/8th or 1mm from the edge. It would tear out to the front of the door because of the leveraging force.
Great video thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the knowledge
Do I need to drill the hinge cup on the door, or can I put it on the Cabinet? I have 1/2" drawer and realize most hinge cups are deeper, or same depth, of that size
The cups only go on the door
I had intended using 1/2 stock on my wee project until I hit this very problem. I ended up using 1/4" stock at 2" wide and made fake stiles and rails.
What is the depth you need to drill for the hinge? I was thinking about doing this with 18mm MDF but concerned it won’t be thick enough
very effective video
What would you recommend using for a stop in the kitchen for cabinet doors? I’m switching from overlay to inset doors and there is no stop.
Are these Blum hinges?
What is the part number for this hinge?
Thanks this really helped
You’re welcome
Great stuff here! Is that jig for any particular brand of inset hinge? I am going to use Blum and want to make sure.
Any that have the same specifications
Do you have a preferred brand of hinge? Or all they all the same?
I like Blum
Hi...I have a kitchen door...door 3:5 centimeters thinkness...plz tell me hinge? inside door
Extremely informative video. Thanks. So the same euro hinges can be used for either full frame or inset right? All that differs is the setback for the inside piece.
A framed cabinet would be different hinges but can still be euro style
Thanks, good job 👍👍👍👍👍👍
So if I wanted to actually recess my door a little bit, would I have to get a hinge that would include the extra space. For example if my door was .75 in but I wanted it recesses another .25 -.5 would I actually need a hinge made for 1 - 1.25 inch. Sorry if this is a dumb question
Technically yes but you would have to see how the door opens cause that could cause issues sonar it is recessed
When does the use of a third hinge come into play, as it relates to the door height? I’m sure weight and width are factored in. But I have some frameless cabinets that will have full overlay doors that are 18” wide, made of 3/4” thick CVG Fir plywood. Should I use three hinges?
Thanks so much for the clear explanation. I need to get some of those hinges, can you recommend one?
So I have inset hinges but they look very different from those. They're sort of the older style hinge where you put the 2 screws on the exterior of the face frame. When I bought these I thought they were kind of a regular hinge and I liked it because them do to the spring tension. I thought that would help it stay closed etc. The challeng is that I built a maple frame on my cabinets and I was thinking of using a 5/8 Maple framed doors with 1/2 dadoed Birch on the inside. I think I might have to mill it down to size to make it flush with the frame which looks like the door should be roughly 1/4th thick, seems to skinny of a door? Sorry this is sort of hard to explain without seeing these hinges.🤷🏽♂️ I might return them. Okay I think I found what I need to do. Looks like I need to cut a data to make these fit properly. Scroll to about 11 minutes in and she explains it pretty clearly. I think I got this. Hope this helped someone and greet video brother! ruclips.net/video/nkHvgTH_Oj4/видео.html
How do you calculate how far back to install the hinge plate on your cabinet?
That's what I don't quite get either. This video uses a Rockler jig for setting the base plate distance (another video uses a generic template), but is each hinge manufacturer using an identical standardized plate for inset applications? The instructions for the Salice hinges I bought at Menards say to assemble the hinge to plate, hold the door in place, and mark the plate location. With a single door cabinet I don't know how you hold the door closed in place with the gaps correct and mark anything inside the cabinet. Going to try a mockup out of scrap to try and determine the setback distance.
Thank you for this!
You’re welcome
Hi Jason, I am looking at making some cabinets with a face frame but also having the doors inset into the face frame. Is this something you have tried before, if so what hinges did you use. Cheers Derek.
There are many options but this is just one example www.rockler.com/blum-120-inset-clip-top-3-way-face-frame-hinges?country=US&sid=V91040&promo=shopping&PL&gclid=Cj0KCQjwh_eFBhDZARIsALHjIKeZCPx__LdB9Aow7zapBxDWeYEOjPhr2gecLMqNOrp1AACuYeAxFLAaAgTSEALw_wcB