I appreciate your effort of making videos and spreading your knowledge/skill to ordinary people like me who want to start their dream project or business 👍👍👍👍
Years ago on a trip to New Zealand I had the honor of meeting a man by the name of John Geesink who fabricated many early Jeep body parts (lots of GP parts). At the time I was there he had just completed a body for a rare WWII 4 wheel steering Jeep. He'd build the entire body in what was basically a 2 car garage. It looked factory made...the only part he didn't build was the top of the dash. I was amazed at what he could accomplish. The walls of his shop were lined with dies to make various parts. Your video gives me some insight into the process. He would be quite elderly now, if he's still around, so I hope someone like yourself has acquired some of his knowledge and equipment.
I have built many, many jeep bodies and have dies and patterns for just about every part. i am in the same situation as the guy John that you spoke about. there isn't anybody who wants to learn my trade. Lots of young people out there but none of those in my area want to learn about sheetmetal work, welding, metal fabrication, etc..... Started this youtube channel to show people how things are done in hopes that someone, somewhere on the planet may be interested enough to get involved. Brian
I am definitely impressed with your work. My background is as a tool & die maker but what you do requires a completely different set of skills, that no doubt took years to learn. I hope you can find someone that you can pass your knowledge on to. We've lost way too much of our industrial skill in this country already.
I agree, we have lost a generation of skilled workers here in the USA and there doesn't seem to be too much interest from anyone who wants to learn my skills. I make all my own tooling, dies for the power hammer and blacksmith hammer, pullmax tooling etc.... just put a shaper on the floor and will bring some videos of that working next time I am making a die with a dovetail. thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
This brings back memorys, same technic i used making frames for F-16 and Sea King helicopters. We where using aluminium though but still. Love it when we transform flat sheetmetal to something with curves :-)
Nicely done! I've tried basically this exact thing and you really made it look easy. In reality it takes a lot of patience and you have to keep your eyes on the metal all the time.
Great workmanship! I didn't think making perfectly square folds over a curve was possible until seeing this. I couldn't figure out how the former held up so well until you said it was steel at some point - it surely makes a big difference to the finished piece.
Glad you like the videos and took the time to make a good comment. Sure is good to know there are people out there who enjoy the content of my channel. Keep watching for more. Brian
very interesting how you shrink the streched metal i've never seen that done before learnt something good from you that will help me restoring my car as it has a lot of curves in the body i'll be waiting for the next video on how you curve the rear section
Air hammer ,,,rivit gun??? Very nice work my man excellent Vid you my friend are the one in a million that can teach others you are a metal God,,,,, excellent work.
Nice work! that's some nice steel plate that you have for your form too. I had to make some smaller hammer forms to make body parts for my Gipsy restorations.
There is a lot of shrinking on that panel, but if you take your time and have a full understanding of how to shrink metal it works out ok. Thanks for watching and sending a comment. More vids on the way. Brian
If my dad was still in this world, he could watch your videos all day long..I miss my best friend more than I can say...I have an 82 wagoneer that I am wanting to change into a CJ8...I have cut off the sides to make it more narrow and am going to make CJ style sides and also a custom front end...I don't have the means to be able to do it the way you do, but I thought I could just cut marine plywood to shape and clad it with aluminum sheeting and then make braces to bolt and weld on the inside of the jeep..I think most people would laugh at the idea but I believe I can make it right..would love to have my dad here with me...he would be sitting in his chair smiling at me while listening to some loud blue grass music..now I'm really missing him...I need a drink.
Hello Donald, sorry to hear about your dad, I know what you are feeling because I recently lost my dad too. I hope your project goes smooth, seems like a big undertaking. Keep in touch. Brian
Perfect workmanship. I'd like to make some body panels and weld them up myself. I was thinking about using an everlast pulse mig to reduce the heat distortion and to avoid blowing holes.
Really nice work. I don't understand how 441 people can not appreciate the labor and skill involved with this. I am doing my own floor pan patch panels and they look terrible and really difficult to do.
Thank you very much for your knowledge I just started messing with sheet-metal you do awesome work knows all machines you have unbelievable thanks again for your knowledge and for taking time out for little guy
That was incredible to watch. Tremendous skills and obviously a lot of experience. I'm working on my welding of sheet metal. I think I will be able to try an everlast pulse mig welder. I'd really like to be able fabricate my own creations.
Thank you ver much. I only wish I had seen this video earlier in my car project. This was extremly useful, particularly which hammers to use, when, the types of blow to use and what to watch for when stretching or shrinking metsl.
Glad this video helped you out. A lot of dislikes so always good to know that people are enjoying the content that I am putting out on youtube. Keep watching many more metalshaping videos coming.
Thanks for the positive comment, always nice to hear from folks who like my video series. Usually I just get negative comments, thumbs down, and nasty emails, so your comment is sure nice to see. Thanks again, Brian
I've seen that done in the Philippines when I was 12 years old in the late '50s. They were using solid steel jigs for body parts for left and right (I supposed), but I only saw one front fender being formed in ss steel.
That is so cool I've been a machinist since 1985 and wonder what some of the dyes I build in the Machine Shop do and how they work I didn't know sheet metal can move and Shrink so easy just by tapping with an hammer thank you for this video
Thanks for the comment Gary. It takes a little bit of practice but after that you can shrink metal without any trouble. Glad you enjoyed the video. Brian
Amazing to see the shrink part ... almost like clay ... Good job. Good observation. You probably have a tad of Italian blood in you, hehe ... Good luck bud.
Have you ever checked out TM technologies? Lots of sheet metal tools. Some old school and some are old school with a little update. Like your rivet gun
very well done and amazing what you have achieved. I would never have thought that shrinking like that was possible. What sort of composition is the sheet metal you use and what thicknesses does it come in? I have some car body fenders and I was hoping to use that panel stell for fabrication work I need to do but is there something better?
My body hammers are made by Snap on as well as dead blow hammers. The plastic shaping mallets can be gotten just about anywhere these days, ebay is one place. EastWood, has them along with lots of other tool retailers.
I saw another video you did and used a wooden form. A 1" thick steel plate is a lot of money when I only need a rear corner. Could I pull this off with a plywood form? Awesome job. I inspired me.
Plywood does not work good for hammerforms. If you have a small part to make without a lot of shrinking you may be ok. With heavy shrinking the plywood will fall apart.
Hi, This is Joyce from China, international Department manager from Sunrise Laser Technology Co., Ltd. Which is specialized in manufacturing laser welding machines. Focus on the laser for 15 years, customized laser automatic device and offer high quality laser welding equipments.
It's good to see someone working steel instead of aluminum. I, myself would have to use steel because aluminum is way out of my budget! Especially as a newbie ! Maybe a dumb question ,but how thick are the steel forms you are using? I really enjoy watching your video's! Thanks.
Tai-Chong, thanks for being a subscriber and your comments. Always nice to get feedback on the type of videos I am making. More videos to follow in the series, thanks again for your positive comments !
hello well done dude! I have an MB jeep, the side edges of my jeep were altered by the previous owners of the jeep. they tried to make a door and messed up the side edges of the jeep and the back was also redone. What advice do you have on how to restore the faces of the jeep in its original form?
You can take your time, make precision measurements, and reproduce and accurate part. Patience and the desire for quality help when doing accurate parts. Other scenario is what most companies do. The look at a part and decide the fastest, cheapest way to make it. Make it hastily and then sell it to customers who don't know any better and they struggle to install the part.
I love this kind of 'metal bashing' when I get a chance to do it. I see that you say you used cold rolled metal - to a degree already 'work hardened' so are you able to avoid the kind of 'torch annealing' we see other people use? Oddly a had two successive 'fathers in law' the first of whom was involved in building the massive presses which do this kind of work in one go and the other who was a trained 'hands on' sheet metal worker.
yes the metal is cold rolled 18 gauge steel. .047" thick. Knowing how the metal will react, and using solid hammer forms keeps me from having to anneal it with heat. Everything done cold and you can watch as I hand shrink the metal together. For power shrinking check out some of my earlier videos when I am using my Power Hammer to shrink metal to make some front cab corners.
....What is your air pressure regulator set to on that pneumatic river gun?... Do you ever start at low pressure, and then work/make subsequent passes at increasing pressures?... Does your form/buck have a uniform radiused edge on it? What is that radius (in terms of metal thickness) .... (maybe 3x, - 6x?)...
.....well, the "edge" of the form, that you are hammering the sheet metal around, is the "edge" in question. Is it a Sharp edge, or chamfered at a small angle, or rounded off/radiused. Look at your countertops at home, Do they have a rounded edge, or a sharp edge. ( = the same concept).
The edge is sharp, not rounded. When I made the forms the edge was sharp enough to cut your hand on. I took a sander with some 80 grit sandpaper on it to just make the edge smooth enough not to get cut on it. Hope that helps with your question. Brian
Yes, thanks! FYI: in Aviation work (where "stress cracks" could be lethal, they routinely try to establish a specific "minimum bend radius" so that the metal achieves it Maximum strength, but doesn't become dangerously work hardened, thinned, or fatigued, during fabrication. Rounded/radiused surfaces hold their finish better too, (IMHO), and often look much better). Perhaps you might consider taking a flap-disk wheel, on a right angle grinder, to those sharp edges, and put a small, (1/8"?) radius on them, all along where you hammer the sheet over that edge line. Great videos, BTW! THANKS!!
I cut the hammer forms out of 3/4" plate steel. Flame cut the rough shape and then carefully ground it to shape to perfectly match the pattern I took off of a NOS side panel. Lots of work went into making them perfect. They are over 25 years old and still holding up great. Brian
metalshaper can I do that with with 3 pieces of 1/4 inch sheet metal welded together to form 3/4 inch piece? You are an expert with sheet metal. I like your jeep collection.
on parts that don't require much shrinking such as the rear floor cross sill, you can get by for one or two parts with a good hardwood buck. It won't last long though. for side panels, front or rear the only thing that will hold up to shrinking is steel. Wood will deform under the heavy shrinks and aluminum will dent and deteriorate as well. Many guys have tried wood in frustration and have failed at making a panel. Don't waste your time with wood it just won't hold up.
I have read your comment about using wood for forms here, I have a cj2a all original except wheels, looks great with body filler, however some panels actually need replacing due to rust gone too far.. I'm from south Africa here and our steel prices are crazy. are there absolutely no alternative to steel forms? I had an idea in my mind of using plywood and possibly making aluminium panels as it won't rust.. what is your opinion?
Plywood will not hold up on the areas that need shrinking and stretching, even if you are making aluminum panels. Also if you make aluminum panels you have to attach them to the steel body..... how were you planning that? Or are you going to make an entire aluminum body tub? If steel is expensive in your area, why not just buy panels already made and just weld them on?
metalshaper true what you say there and thanks for your opinion.. yea was thinking of complete aluminum tub.. and so far after many months of research.. panels for the cj2a are not available in south africa.. only import
my hammer forms were cut many years ago with a oxy/acetylene setup. I then took my pattern and layout die and hand formed the panels to the perfect shape. In these modern times the forms can be laser cut or even water jet cut. The key is to have the right pattern or the hammerform is useless.
metalshaper would it work to make a wooden hammer form if you’re only building one Jeep? I need to make both sides, but I’m redesigning the wheel arch shape
@@limitlessbuilds Making a wood form will not work very well. The amount of shrinking around the door panel will not come out right with wood. The wood will be damaged long before the panel is made. I have watched guys make plywood and even hardwood forms and the results were less than acceptable.
How much about did it cost you to make that form? with the price of steel around here if that 1 inch that thing could run me upwards of $1,000, just in materials.
I made these hammer forms over 20 years ago. Flame cut and then sanded and ground to perfect shape. Did the work myself. Today with modern machinery you could probably have them laser cut or maybe water jet cut but that comes at a great cost as well. Yes, prices of steel are way up compared to when I made these.
the phillipino body tubs are terrible. If you have never put one on a jeep chassis then you don't know how bad they are. Nothing fits properly, they put a horrible primer on them, the windshields never fit properly on the cowl, hat channel in the wrong place, etc...... they may look good but they don't fit good.
You probably saw the ones that were not built by the best fabricators around.I remember in the late 70's my dad assembled a jeep that he bought the entire body, (after market)fenders,tailgate and windshield.The entire body panel is made of 16gauge galvanized sheet metal and the hood was so heavy is made of 15gauge and the tailgate.The parts are just so smooth that we didn't even paint the jeep after assembly.The roof frame is made of stainless tubular steel for the rugtop.In those days jeeps are customize in so many different combinations, if you wanna install stainless steel fenders you can order them what gauge you want from fabricators.Some fabricators assembled them with semi-stainless and the rest of the body panels are painted.It was really craze among fabricators in those days even the front grilles are made of stainless steel.Anything you wanna order for your jeep parts in those days you can select whether a galvanized,cold roll or stainless steel you can have it.
Also from the Philippines here. I assembled two flat fenders and a YJ Wrangler which I still have built by M.D. Juan Enterprises (Jeepstar). Nothing is impossible down here. If it does not fit we will make it fit.
I have installed many Philippine body tubs and none of them fit properly. Not sure why you can't get things right in your factory. Primer is terrible, body tubs don't fit on the chassis properly, hat channel is always in the wrong place, windshields never fit the body cowl..... etc...... That is why I build my own bodies here in the USA
Yah I agree. That's the reason why we down here buy the whole kit frame and everything else. I am third gen. American and dreamed of having the original Jeep.. But as the saying goes "Only in your dreams". The entire jeep body building industry went under in the 90"s when second hand vehicles were more affordable. Shops used to lie side by side where I lived. By the way there are a gazillion small/independent body makers in the Philippines at the time. There are two categories. One is the "Owner type" which is a clone of the American U.S. Army Jeep and the passenger jeep for our mass transport. Most craftsmen at the time hammer out front grill design of whichever car is popular. Donor cars at that time were scarce so if a new body panel is needed, it is made by hand and made to fit. I am now 63 years old and lived in this era. M.D. Juan or M.D. Jeepstar is the only one that uses stamping process instead of the hammer and dolly method. They discontinued the wrangler and are probably exporting restoration jeep body parts to the U.S.
@UCkkQoFALD4guHS3X9iiRpMQ I clearly show the whole panel being made, watch part 1,2,and 3 to see how everything is done. If you actually watch the video completely I talk about wooden forms and why they don't work good.
I appreciate your effort of making videos and spreading your knowledge/skill to ordinary people like me who want to start their dream project or business 👍👍👍👍
Years ago on a trip to New Zealand I had the honor of meeting a man by the name of John Geesink who fabricated many early Jeep body parts (lots of GP parts). At the time I was there he had just completed a body for a rare WWII 4 wheel steering Jeep. He'd build the entire body in what was basically a 2 car garage. It looked factory made...the only part he didn't build was the top of the dash. I was amazed at what he could accomplish. The walls of his shop were lined with dies to make various parts. Your video gives me some insight into the process. He would be quite elderly now, if he's still around, so I hope someone like yourself has acquired some of his knowledge and equipment.
I have built many, many jeep bodies and have dies and patterns for just about every part. i am in the same situation as the guy John that you spoke about. there isn't anybody who wants to learn my trade. Lots of young people out there but none of those in my area want to learn about sheetmetal work, welding, metal fabrication, etc..... Started this youtube channel to show people how things are done in hopes that someone, somewhere on the planet may be interested enough to get involved.
Brian
I am definitely impressed with your work. My background is as a tool & die maker but what you do requires a completely different set of skills, that no doubt took years to learn. I hope you can find someone that you can pass your knowledge on to. We've lost way too much of our industrial skill in this country already.
I agree, we have lost a generation of skilled workers here in the USA and there doesn't seem to be too much interest from anyone who wants to learn my skills. I make all my own tooling, dies for the power hammer and blacksmith hammer, pullmax tooling etc.... just put a shaper on the floor and will bring some videos of that working next time I am making a die with a dovetail.
thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
This brings back memorys, same technic i used making frames for F-16 and Sea King helicopters. We where using aluminium though but still. Love it when we transform flat sheetmetal to something with curves :-)
Great to hear from another metal worker. Thanks for watching and sending a positive comment.
Nicely done! I've tried basically this exact thing and you really made it look easy. In reality it takes a lot of patience and you have to keep your eyes on the metal all the time.
Thanks for watching, yes patience is a key part of metalshaping.
Great workmanship! I didn't think making perfectly square folds over a curve was possible until seeing this. I couldn't figure out how the former held up so well until you said it was steel at some point - it surely makes a big difference to the finished piece.
thanks for watching.
Wow... thank God that there are guys like you that share and teach these techniques. Thanks for your knowledge, time and will...!
Glad you like the videos and took the time to make a good comment. Sure is good to know there are people out there who enjoy the content of my channel. Keep watching for more.
Brian
Well impressed, loved the way the tucks magically melted into one. Given me the knowledge to have a go my self now, cheers.
Give it a shot and try to make your own panels, just remember to be patient and try to learn from my videos.
WOW👌 👏 Thank you for making videos! I really enjoyed learning this new area of metal working.
very interesting how you shrink the streched metal i've never seen that done before
learnt something good from you that will help me restoring my car as it has a lot of curves in the body
i'll be waiting for the next video on how you curve the rear section
If you are new to the channel check out my other videos on metal shaping, there are a variety of videos that show different techniques
Brilliant this man is so patient takes his time he is so clever and great to watch love it larrysullivan in London well done cheers mate
Thanks for watching, glad you enjoyed the video. Brian
Fantastic! Really nice to see a master at work. Great instructional style too. Thanks very much 👍
thanks for watching and making a comment. There are many more videos coming so keep watching.
Air hammer ,,,rivit gun??? Very nice work my man excellent Vid you my friend are the one in a million that can teach others you are a metal God,,,,, excellent work.
Nice work! that's some nice steel plate that you have for your form too. I had to make some smaller hammer forms to make body parts for my Gipsy restorations.
Good educational video. Surprising how much the metal shrinks.
Glad you enjoyed the video.
You really took me to school on this - didn't know you could shrink that much without a shrinker... beautiful work!
There is a lot of shrinking on that panel, but if you take your time and have a full understanding of how to shrink metal it works out ok. Thanks for watching and sending a comment. More vids on the way.
Brian
If my dad was still in this world, he could watch your videos all day long..I miss my best friend more than I can say...I have an 82 wagoneer that I am wanting to change into a CJ8...I have cut off the sides to make it more narrow and am going to make CJ style sides and also a custom front end...I don't have the means to be able to do it the way you do, but I thought I could just cut marine plywood to shape and clad it with aluminum sheeting and then make braces to bolt and weld on the inside of the jeep..I think most people would laugh at the idea but I believe I can make it right..would love to have my dad here with me...he would be sitting in his chair smiling at me while listening to some loud blue grass music..now I'm really missing him...I need a drink.
Hello Donald, sorry to hear about your dad, I know what you are feeling because I recently lost my dad too. I hope your project goes smooth, seems like a big undertaking. Keep in touch.
Brian
Something i've never seen done, cool Dude.
Mesmerizing playability... almost as satisfying as watching fire.
Thank You !! So much a joy watching a PRO at work !!
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Great to have viewers like you.
Brian
Awesome to watch. people forget what you can do with your hands
Appreciate you watching and taking the time to comment
You make that look easy. It probably is if you've been doing body work for a few years.
Been shaping metal for most of my life so far. Glad you liked the video.
Brian
Perfect workmanship. I'd like to make some body panels and weld them up myself. I was thinking about using an everlast pulse mig to reduce the heat distortion and to avoid blowing holes.
Really nice work. I don't understand how 441 people can not appreciate the labor and skill involved with this. I am doing my own floor pan patch panels and they look terrible and really difficult to do.
Thank you very much for your knowledge I just started messing with sheet-metal you do awesome work knows all machines you have unbelievable thanks again for your knowledge and for taking time out for little guy
Amazing!!! Very nice work, thanks for sharing it.
That was incredible to watch. Tremendous skills and obviously a lot of experience. I'm working on my welding of sheet metal. I think I will be able to try an everlast pulse mig welder. I'd really like to be able fabricate my own creations.
be patient, take your time, and don't get discouraged and you should do fine. follow along on my videos for help in areas you are not sure of.
Brian
Nice work Sir! one man with a hammer!
Excellent workmanship dude....
Thanks for watching
This is like *Raising Metal.*
Thank you ver much. I only wish I had seen this video earlier in my car project. This was extremly useful, particularly which hammers to use, when, the types of blow to use and what to watch for when stretching or shrinking metsl.
Glad this video helped you out. A lot of dislikes so always good to know that people are enjoying the content that I am putting out on youtube. Keep watching many more metalshaping videos coming.
Terence Hawkes
Thank you so much for sharing this knowledge.
Very nicely done! I'm learning from guys like you, thanks.
thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Glad you are learning, that is the goal of my videos. Keep watching, more on the way.
Brian how can I get a hold of a paper pattern to make a plywood form to bang out a side panel for a CJ3B ?
That is some beautiful work you are truly a master
Thanks for the positive comment, always nice to hear from folks who like my video series. Usually I just get negative comments, thumbs down, and nasty emails, so your comment is sure nice to see. Thanks again,
Brian
You must wake up in the middle of the night with an urge to squash tucks. :)
I've seen that done in the Philippines when I was 12 years old in the late '50s. They were using solid steel jigs for body parts for left and right (I supposed), but I only saw one front fender being formed in ss steel.
That is so cool I've been a machinist since 1985 and wonder what some of the dyes I build in the Machine Shop do and how they work I didn't know sheet metal can move and Shrink so easy just by tapping with an hammer thank you for this video
Thanks for the comment Gary. It takes a little bit of practice but after that you can shrink metal without any trouble. Glad you enjoyed the video.
Brian
Now i know why they are called "Panel Beaters"
Amazing to see the shrink part ... almost like clay ... Good job. Good observation. You probably have a tad of Italian blood in you, hehe ... Good luck bud.
Have you ever checked out TM technologies? Lots of sheet metal tools. Some old school and some are old school with a little update. Like your rivet gun
В какой-то момент, думал сейчас по носу мне ударит)))
Perfect job brooo. Great skill 👍👌. So inspiring.
Thank you for sharing.
hello,
I get that on the inside curves the metal is being stretched. but on the outside curves are the tucks compressing?
yes outside tucks are shrinking and the metal is getting thicker.
I think this is so cool.
Where does one learn this?
That is an art form for sure.
Would putting some heat into that curve allow the metal to form better..being more pliable?
No I don't like to use heat on the panels. I can cold shrink the metal with no problem
Wouldn't you put a bit of heat into the curves to help not split...the sheet ?
very well done and amazing what you have achieved. I would never have thought that shrinking like that was possible. What sort of composition is the sheet metal you use and what thicknesses does it come in? I have some car body fenders and I was hoping to use that panel stell for fabrication work I need to do but is there something better?
Sheetmetal is 18 gauge .047" cold rolled steel. Takes a bit of practice but soon you should be able to shrink metal by hand as I did in the video.
Do you sell patches and panels? I have a 2a where the top rear corners are roached.
Sir, how to make willys mb's windshield glass channel? Plz explain.
Thats a good fabricating job, thanks for posting it.
Glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching.
Brian
10/10 👌 great job and well explained!😎
Would this process work for aluminum, e.g. .063 3003 sheet?
yes, as long as your aluminum is soft and you don't work it incorrectly and make it crack.
Awesome work..👌 which metal sheet guage are you using ..?
18 gauge, .047" cold rolled steel sheet
@@metalshaperJeep thanks a lot for your reply... you rock..
How can I contact you directly to order sheet metal parts for my 1961 Scout 80?
Satisfactory video
Excellent work
Thank you for the informative video...I make duct for HVAC and love old cars/trucks...where can I get the hammers? Thank you in advance
My body hammers are made by Snap on as well as dead blow hammers. The plastic shaping mallets can be gotten just about anywhere these days, ebay is one place. EastWood, has them along with lots of other tool retailers.
U are genius man thank u and I hope to show us more vedio
Check out my other videos to see the body being built. More videos on the way.
Even if it was 6 hour video i would watch it.
good hard work
A matter Craftsman at work!!
thanks for watching, hope you will continue to enjoy my video channel.
I saw another video you did and used a wooden form. A 1" thick steel plate is a lot of money when I only need a rear corner. Could I pull this off with a plywood form? Awesome job. I inspired me.
Plywood does not work good for hammerforms. If you have a small part to make without a lot of shrinking you may be ok. With heavy shrinking the plywood will fall apart.
is there pdf file body sold with scale 1:1 to cut metal plate with plasma ?
no
Hi,
This is Joyce from China, international Department manager from Sunrise Laser Technology Co., Ltd.
Which is specialized in manufacturing laser welding machines. Focus on the laser for 15 years,
customized laser automatic device and offer high quality laser welding equipments.
Does the top roll over have a second U section strip welded up under it like the MB does ?
Yes, same as MB/GPW. Will show how I make it in a future video
It's good to see someone working steel instead of aluminum. I, myself would have to use steel because aluminum is way out of my budget! Especially as a newbie ! Maybe a dumb question ,but how thick are the steel forms you are using? I really enjoy watching your video's! Thanks.
hammer form is 3/4" thick. .750"
metalshaper , thanks ,I thought they looked pretty thick! Great technique.
Hello, do you have a drawing and a car jeep willems?
This video answered so many of my questions . What gauge metal are you using there? Thanks
18 gauge cold rolled steel. .047" thick
great work.
Could you use a shrinking hammer?
is it always easier to stretch an inside curve than it is to shrink an outside curve?
It depends on your skill level. Once you get experienced at metal work stretching or shrinking isn't a problem.
awsome work good video
Tai-Chong, thanks for being a subscriber and your comments. Always nice to get feedback on the type of videos I am making. More videos to follow in the series, thanks again for your positive comments !
Your welcome Thank you
hello well done dude! I have an MB jeep, the side edges of my jeep were altered by the previous owners of the jeep. they tried to make a door and messed up the side edges of the jeep and the back was also redone. What advice do you have on how to restore the faces of the jeep in its original form?
Cut out everything that is bad and fabricate new parts to make it look original again.
a pleasure to watch..... thank you :)
Glad you enjoyed the video. Keep watching many more coming soon.
Brian
Metalshaper what are your theories that makes metalshaped parts wont fit or not precise? What are common pitfalls or mistakes made by metalshapers?
You can take your time, make precision measurements, and reproduce and accurate part. Patience and the desire for quality help when doing accurate parts.
Other scenario is what most companies do. The look at a part and decide the fastest, cheapest way to make it. Make it hastily and then sell it to customers who don't know any better and they struggle to install the part.
Thank you!
Amazing work.
I really liked the video
thanks for the comment. Keep watching there are many more videos coming.
I love this kind of 'metal bashing' when I get a chance to do it. I see that you say you used cold rolled metal - to a degree already 'work hardened' so are you able to avoid the kind of 'torch annealing' we see other people use?
Oddly a had two successive 'fathers in law' the first of whom was involved in building the massive presses which do this kind of work in one go and the other who was a trained 'hands on' sheet metal worker.
yes the metal is cold rolled 18 gauge steel. .047" thick. Knowing how the metal will react, and using solid hammer forms keeps me from having to anneal it with heat. Everything done cold and you can watch as I hand shrink the metal together. For power shrinking check out some of my earlier videos when I am using my Power Hammer to shrink metal to make some front cab corners.
metalshaper thanks for your swift reply
VERY NICE
Excellent video thank you
Muy bueno saludos desde Cali Colombia 🇨🇴
....What is your air pressure regulator set to on that pneumatic river gun?... Do you ever start at low pressure, and then work/make subsequent passes at increasing pressures?... Does your form/buck have a uniform radiused edge on it? What is that radius (in terms of metal thickness) .... (maybe 3x, - 6x?)...
rivet gun is set at 90 psi. Not sure what you are asking about radius.
.....well, the "edge" of the form, that you are hammering the sheet metal around, is the "edge" in question. Is it a Sharp edge, or chamfered at a small angle, or rounded off/radiused. Look at your countertops at home, Do they have a rounded edge, or a sharp edge. ( = the same concept).
The edge is sharp, not rounded. When I made the forms the edge was sharp enough to cut your hand on. I took a sander with some 80 grit sandpaper on it to just make the edge smooth enough not to get cut on it. Hope that helps with your question.
Brian
Yes, thanks! FYI: in Aviation work (where "stress cracks" could be lethal, they routinely try to establish a specific "minimum bend radius" so that the metal achieves it Maximum strength, but doesn't become dangerously work hardened, thinned, or fatigued, during fabrication. Rounded/radiused surfaces hold their finish better too, (IMHO), and often look much better). Perhaps you might consider taking a flap-disk wheel, on a right angle grinder, to those sharp edges, and put a small, (1/8"?) radius on them, all along where you hammer the sheet over that edge line. Great videos, BTW! THANKS!!
The material is different. Steel behaves quite differently than aluminum. Also the jeep tub won't be pressurized/depressurized many times
amazing working...
Great work, been watching you work for a couple hours now, do you sell patch panels for the willys cj2a or do you have a website, thx paul
Thanks for sharing your knowledge
Your welcome. Keep watching for more new videos.
I'm wondering where he got the form or how he made the form, LOOKS like 1/2 inch steel.
I cut the hammer forms out of 3/4" plate steel. Flame cut the rough shape and then carefully ground it to shape to perfectly match the pattern I took off of a NOS side panel. Lots of work went into making them perfect. They are over 25 years old and still holding up great.
Brian
metalshaper can I do that with with 3 pieces of 1/4 inch sheet metal welded together to form 3/4 inch piece? You are an expert with sheet metal. I like your jeep collection.
pure talent
thanks for comment, hope you are enjoying the series. Keep watching many more videos coming.
do you prefer using heavy steel plate for templates or is wood a good substitute another great video enjoy watching them
on parts that don't require much shrinking such as the rear floor cross sill, you can get by for one or two parts with a good hardwood buck. It won't last long though. for side panels, front or rear the only thing that will hold up to shrinking is steel. Wood will deform under the heavy shrinks and aluminum will dent and deteriorate as well. Many guys have tried wood in frustration and have failed at making a panel. Don't waste your time with wood it just won't hold up.
I have read your comment about using wood for forms here, I have a cj2a all original except wheels, looks great with body filler, however some panels actually need replacing due to rust gone too far.. I'm from south Africa here and our steel prices are crazy. are there absolutely no alternative to steel forms? I had an idea in my mind of using plywood and possibly making aluminium panels as it won't rust.. what is your opinion?
Plywood will not hold up on the areas that need shrinking and stretching, even if you are making aluminum panels. Also if you make aluminum panels you have to attach them to the steel body..... how were you planning that? Or are you going to make an entire aluminum body tub? If steel is expensive in your area, why not just buy panels already made and just weld them on?
metalshaper true what you say there and thanks for your opinion.. yea was thinking of complete aluminum tub.. and so far after many months of research.. panels for the cj2a are not available in south africa.. only import
What's the ematerial did u use?
Cold rolled 1018 steel sheet 18 gauge .047" thickness
Nice video . Hey from Russia)))
Great to have viewers from Russia. Thanks for watching.
Brian
metalshaper i am mehannik and avtoelectrik)))
great video
many thanks.
How did you cut out such a nice steel buck form? I would love to build one!!!
I have 47’ in need of major panel work
my hammer forms were cut many years ago with a oxy/acetylene setup. I then took my pattern and layout die and hand formed the panels to the perfect shape. In these modern times the forms can be laser cut or even water jet cut. The key is to have the right pattern or the hammerform is useless.
metalshaper would it work to make a wooden hammer form if you’re only building one Jeep? I need to make both sides, but I’m redesigning the wheel arch shape
@@limitlessbuilds Making a wood form will not work very well. The amount of shrinking around the door panel will not come out right with wood. The wood will be damaged long before the panel is made. I have watched guys make plywood and even hardwood forms and the results were less than acceptable.
Yes, making wooden form is far easier, but you're not manipulation wet paper here.
Хорошая работа, красота!
How much about did it cost you to make that form? with the price of steel around here if that 1 inch that thing could run me upwards of $1,000, just in materials.
I made these hammer forms over 20 years ago. Flame cut and then sanded and ground to perfect shape. Did the work myself. Today with modern machinery you could probably have them laser cut or maybe water jet cut but that comes at a great cost as well. Yes, prices of steel are way up compared to when I made these.
as far as car or jeeps and other vihecles body building is concern you have to visit philippines and see a looks a like factory made.
the phillipino body tubs are terrible. If you have never put one on a jeep chassis then you don't know how bad they are. Nothing fits properly, they put a horrible primer on them, the windshields never fit properly on the cowl, hat channel in the wrong place, etc...... they may look good but they don't fit good.
You probably saw the ones that were not built by the best fabricators around.I remember in the late 70's my dad assembled a jeep that he bought the entire body, (after market)fenders,tailgate and windshield.The entire body panel is made of 16gauge galvanized sheet metal and the hood was so heavy is made of 15gauge and the tailgate.The parts are just so smooth that we didn't even paint the jeep after assembly.The roof frame is made of stainless tubular steel for the rugtop.In those days jeeps are customize in so many different combinations, if you wanna install stainless steel fenders you can order them what gauge you want from fabricators.Some fabricators assembled them with semi-stainless and the rest of the body panels are painted.It was really craze among fabricators in those days even the front grilles are made of stainless steel.Anything you wanna order for your jeep parts in those days you can select whether a galvanized,cold roll or stainless steel you can have it.
Also from the Philippines here. I assembled two flat fenders and a YJ Wrangler which I still have built by M.D. Juan Enterprises (Jeepstar). Nothing is impossible down here. If it does not fit we will make it fit.
I have installed many Philippine body tubs and none of them fit properly. Not sure why you can't get things right in your factory. Primer is terrible, body tubs don't fit on the chassis properly, hat channel is always in the wrong place, windshields never fit the body cowl..... etc...... That is why I build my own bodies here in the USA
Yah I agree. That's the reason why we down here buy the whole kit frame and everything else. I am third gen. American and dreamed of having the original Jeep.. But as the saying goes "Only in your dreams". The entire jeep body building industry went under in the 90"s when second hand vehicles were more affordable. Shops used to lie side by side where I lived. By the way there are a gazillion small/independent body makers in the Philippines at the time. There are two categories. One is the "Owner type" which is a clone of the American U.S. Army Jeep and the passenger jeep for our mass transport. Most craftsmen at the time hammer out front grill design of whichever car is popular. Donor cars at that time were scarce so if a new body panel is needed, it is made by hand and made to fit. I am now 63 years old and lived in this era. M.D. Juan or M.D. Jeepstar is the only one that uses stamping process instead of the hammer and dolly method. They discontinued the wrangler and are probably exporting restoration jeep body parts to the U.S.
nice work
thanks for the comment. Keep watching for more videos.
Brian
beautiful work! What are your forms made from?
solid plate steel
@@metalshaperJeep Will wood work? I need a one off piece for the passenger rear corner.
@UCkkQoFALD4guHS3X9iiRpMQ I clearly show the whole panel being made, watch part 1,2,and 3 to see how everything is done. If you actually watch the video completely I talk about wooden forms and why they don't work good.
What are you making/ forming?
Willys CJ3B side panel