That’s a really well put together video Tubal. There are many RUclipsrs who talk about teaching their craft, but rarely do. You really explained and demonstrated it so clearly. I’m a welder of 30 years, mainly oil & gas piping. Sheet metal is a completely different ball game. I will probably never planish out a weld on a fender, but it’s always a pleasure to watch a craftsman at his work. Subscribed. Thank you
This is turning out to be a right welders corner, I’ve been welding for some 40 + year’s and applying that skill over on joes rust buckets, love when someone comes along and does it right so fair play to you , great content brother 🤙🤙🤙
WOW! I am so glad I stumbled onto your video. When I learned to work metal (1957) the tools were in some ways much different but the result was the same. The only welding was done with oxy/acetylene torches or stick welds. We were still working on cars with removable fenders and had a special bench to hold one off the vehicle. The same basic technique you used was used but our slappers (called some times bumping files) had teeth like a file not smooth. Had to wrap the handle end with masking tape. Use of gloves was an option but my hands were so calloused that I didn't like wearing them. Plastic came in about 1958 in our area called "PERMEND". Mixxed 2 powders together. We kept on using lead for a long time until filler got better. I once worked for an OlDSMOBILE dealer that kept lead up in use until the 1960's. In order to get BONDO you had to go to the parts department and sign off for a quart. Back in the day we had to take off door panels, straighten them and weld them back. Very glad to see your skill set as it brings back many fond memories. Good luck.
Wow Man that is Soo cool! I'm hoping to inspire the youth to keep the panel beating tradition going, it's almost a lost art. But I love it! I'm super thankful you took time out of your day to write such an awesome comment! I
My dad was a perfectionist body man. When he plied his trade. There was no bondo or filler primers. He worked the metal to perfection every time. He taught me the same. Oxy/Acet. Weld a bit. Dress it then repeat. When TIG arrived I was told it was just like Oxy/Acet. I treat it like that. Weld a bit. Dress it and repeat. Leaving very little work to finish the panel. I use a body file to emphasize the highs and lows. No need to use a marker pen 😉
Thank you I appreciate that! But my goal is to teach what I know! Anybody can learn this stuff! So stick around and I will teach and try my best to help you learn as much as possible!
As a complete novice, I am very happy to see this. Easy to understand. I am going to have a MiG weld on two pieces of body panel that I am joining together and would love to see how you would do something like that. Not a 90 degree, more like 15-20 degrees.
Great tutorial, thanks, benefitting from the honest video showing just how much hard, but precise work it is, requiring patience, concentration, dedication. I guess there should be mention of exercises for the forearm muscles and fatigue that comes from doing this all day! 😀
Классное видео. Даже без знания английского любой кто имеет опыт работы с металлом или в автомастерской поймет о чем речь. Спасибо что делишься знаниями 👍🏽
Очень полезное видео. Очень хорошо показано. Видно куда наносится удар и как стерается маркер. Наверное лучшее на просторах интернета. Многие просто объясняют, но до конца не всегда понятно. А тут прям всё визуально. Просто класс!!! Спасибо вам! Смотрю с субтитрами. Перевод не всегда корректен, но смысл уловить можно. Ещё раз спасибо и удачи! Very useful video. Very well shown. You can see where the blow is applied and how the marker is erased. Probably the best on the Internet. Many simply explain, but it is not always completely clear. But here everything is visual. Just great!!! Thank you! I watch with subtitles. The translation is not always correct, but you can get the meaning. Thanks again and good luck!
This is some real down to earth art work,Thanks for the video.Hope you are able to pass this on to a young man or women so this trade can carry on............................................................Fort Worth Tx
I do what is called hammer welding, while the metal is still hot. I weld a little, then hammer that secton flat using the hammer and dolly. After I’m done hammer welding the whole section, I shape the section, with slippers, and slapping files. I don’t like to grind, because I don’t want to thin or weaken the metal. I only use the file for very fine finishing. If I need to do any slight shrinking, I use the knurled shrinking hammer, along with the slapping file. Works for me, but I’m old school, and learned these techniques over fifty years ago. Great job, Great video
Really enjoyed that, very clear concise explanation. I’ve a bit more work to do on my aluminium Landrover ‘fenders’ wings as we all them in the U.K. All the best , Mat
I’ve been struggling with exactly that! I don’t have a wheel or air hammer and have yet to get my welded joints to disappear. I don’t know why I never thought about hammering up the adjacent lows first. Thanks for sharing!
Right on I'm glad this video helped you!!! That's the whole reason I started this chanel! Good luck with your project! Let me know if there is any other way I can help you through your project
If you have a project your working on and if your new to metal work I would love to ask you some questions for a project I'm working on, if you wouldn't mind getting on a call with me I would greatly appreciate it! Also I would be happy to answere any more questions you might have on your project as well during our call. There is a link in my RUclips description to pick a day and time.🙏
Fascinating work and beautiful results my friend you make it look easy but it’s a real skill that takes some serious practice and concentration to get that good I’m sure. Gonna be getting myself some body working tools next week and pick up some cheap crappy damaged wings off of a scrap car and get practicing see what results I get I’m looking forward to having a go before I butcher my van lol great vid thanks 👍
Thanks @bigsquatchsasfoot! Yeah man the only way to really do it, is to do it! Haha remember you don't need expensive tools to get a fantastic result, some second hand hammers and dollies ground and polished work like new! Let me know if there is anything I can help you with on your project!
Yes absolutely! I ground the weld on the underside of the fender as well, its important so when you start planishing you get the best most consistent result possible
Aluminum is pretty similar to steel. The nice thing about aluminum is you can anneal it! Wich makes it much easier to work. I do some pretty extreme shaping of aluminum in this video here: ruclips.net/video/qlCGw0J-OCk/видео.htmlsi=4EUpN3Z_QckcHb_g
Same way as steel. But best to have polished equipment like hammers English wheel etc. check out Wray schelin videos. He works aluminum in some videos and he is a true master!
Very informative video. Would you please be so kind to answer a question: did you consider using a birdseye pick on the tiny low spots before grinding? Also it appears that your grinder for the shrinking disk is not powerful enough. I had to get the gigantic makita before I got enough torque to really create any heat with that disk. Thank you.
What's up man! A bullseye pick could work! With a bullseye pick it's focust in a verry small concentrated area and can be quite accurate, it's essentially the same thing as a hammer and dolly. Also I'm pretty sure my grinder is adequate for the shrinker, if I'm not careful I can heat the panel blue. Seems to work just fine with good results. Thanks for watching!
An alternative method is to embrace welded joints until they become the norm. The rat rod people have been on to that one for quite some time with good results.
@@amracewayoh ok I think I understand what your saying. And I could see doing that on a RatRod because they are not supposed to be pretty, But if your going paint these parts you want it to be as smooth and perfect as as you can get it to keep the plastic filler as thin as possible
What gauge is that metal? What is the thickness when finished? Seems like all that slapping and grinding would make the metal very brittle and would eventually crack.
With this job the customer only wanted me to do the metal work. I can do filler and primer but I really prefer to do metal fabrication over everything else. Thank for watching!!!
Well it depends, I never use a MiG if I am going to be stretching and planishing a weld. MiG welds cool a lot faster than Tig welds do which in turn makes them a lot less malleable. Hammering on MiG welds will eventually crack, most likely where the MiG weld meets the mild steel. So for this type of job Tig is best
Great video ... i love pro-shaper Ray he's awesome would love to do one of his courses .. great to see someone that hasdoing awesome stuff, keep it up! the shrink disk, i've seen it looks awesome etc but i live in New Zealand and to get one over here is just to expensive, do you think tou could make one, and if yes how etc please
What's up New Zealand! Matt it's definitely possible to make one, Wray makes his, but that would be a somewhat complicated process, you would need to build a press die tool for the shrinking disk and for the backing plate that is strong enough to press stainless steel. Your best bet would be to buy one. Now if it's to expensive to get one sent from Wray, you can buy one from @Eastwood, @summit, @tricktools, eBay and even Amazon!
Not exactly how I would of done it. You can only do this with TIG welds or OXY Fusion welding, Doesn't work with MIG. I would of used a slapper made out of a file but you would of had to hit it a bit more gently. Also would of used a proper steel body file to help take down the highs of the weld. I like the big steel flat disc you used on the 8 inch grinder, I have never seen that before, would love to get my hands on one to try it out. Note sure how you can get a proper feel for the panel with gloves on. Be interesting to feel the whole panel you have done not just that spot. Overall nicely done.
Excellent tutorial , you have a great ability to teach ,and keep my attention, I’ve only seen Wray use a slapping tool ( I’m sure there is lots of videos with tin bashers using them) so does the slapper spread more of the stretching ? Subscribed, and notification bell on! Looking forward to future videos!👍🇨🇦
What up Canada! Dude you have no idea how much this comment means to me. Your feedback made my day! I'm glad you got value out of this video and took time out of your day to write your message. This helps me stay inspired to creat more videos! So to answer your question, by using the "hammer on dolly" method in the low spots it stretches the metal bringing the Lows up, and since the slapper covers a large surface area it also lowers out the highs surrounding the lows to bring everything nice and level and consistent throughout the section of the panel being worked. Thanks again for the Sub! Let me know if you have any more questions
@jakeatencio305 So actually you do go at it with the grinder first and grind as much of the weld off as you can without grinding the adjacent material on each side of the weld as much as possible. But being that the metal isn't planished smooth yet, you can't 100% fully grind the weld until the highs and Low's are planished evenly which helps level the weld with the sheet metal for more grinding and make the panel consistent and look more seamless. I hope that makes Sense
Sup Mark, yeah I used filler rod. You definitely want to use filler rod because it adds material to grind off on both sides. This prevents the metal getting too thin and also having pits or craters in the steel when planishing.
I fumbled with that fender for a while lol it was hard just to keep the thing on the stand in the correct position. So I had to just deal with the movement
Don't spray it with water: let it cool naturally. The water will harden the metal and more difficult to manipulate. You may even heat it with a paint remover heat gun to make it a bit more easy to manipulate. It might help you to get up the stubborn lows
You use the same principle when using the planishing disk: the heat of the disk flattens the high spots. During paintless dent repairs they also warm up the panels to help to move the panels a little bit. Last but not least: hardening of metals is done by heating it up and to quickly cool it in water or oil. Would be very interesting to see if this would help you. Cheers!
That’s a really well put together video Tubal. There are many RUclipsrs who talk about teaching their craft, but rarely do. You really explained and demonstrated it so clearly. I’m a welder of 30 years, mainly oil & gas piping. Sheet metal is a completely different ball game. I will probably never planish out a weld on a fender, but it’s always a pleasure to watch a craftsman at his work. Subscribed. Thank you
Thank you man! I appreciate the kind words! These are the type of comments that keep me inspired to keep making the best videos I can!
I second that. Been welding 25 years but have never seen anyone do this up close. Glad craftsmanship isn’t dead. Keep it up brother.
@@notanymore9471 Thank you! Will do!!
I definitely enjoyed your attitude and knowledge and detailed video. Thank you.
This is turning out to be a right welders corner, I’ve been welding for some 40 + year’s and applying that skill over on joes rust buckets, love when someone comes along and does it right so fair play to you , great content brother 🤙🤙🤙
25 years at a pro body shop with many heavy hit repairs but never this. I will try this on my own with your video as a guide. Life is good. TY
Hell yeah man! Glad to help and super stoked your going to try this out. Let me know if you have any questions or there is any other way I can help!🙏
I clicked to see WTF is planish welds? = extreme patience thumbs up
WOW! I am so glad I stumbled onto your video. When I learned to work metal (1957) the tools were in some ways much different but the result was the same. The only welding was done with oxy/acetylene torches or stick welds. We were still working on cars with removable fenders and had a special bench to hold one off the vehicle. The same basic technique you used was used but our slappers (called some times bumping files) had teeth like a file not smooth. Had to wrap the handle end with masking tape. Use of gloves was an option but my hands were so calloused that I didn't like wearing them. Plastic came in about 1958 in our area called "PERMEND". Mixxed 2 powders together. We kept on using lead for a long time until filler got better. I once worked for an OlDSMOBILE dealer that kept lead up in use until the 1960's. In order to get BONDO you had to go to the parts department
and sign off for a quart. Back in the day we had to take off door panels, straighten them and weld them back. Very glad to see your skill set as it brings back many fond memories. Good luck.
Wow Man that is Soo cool! I'm hoping to inspire the youth to keep the panel beating tradition going, it's almost a lost art. But I love it! I'm super thankful you took time out of your day to write such an awesome comment! I
My dad was a perfectionist body man. When he plied his trade. There was no bondo or filler primers. He worked the metal to perfection every time. He taught me the same. Oxy/Acet. Weld a bit. Dress it then repeat. When TIG arrived I was told it was just like Oxy/Acet. I treat it like that. Weld a bit. Dress it and repeat. Leaving very little work to finish the panel. I use a body file to emphasize the highs and lows. No need to use a marker pen 😉
Glad to see all those hours we spent together is paying off.
Haha yes I learned a ton spending all that time with you! We need to do it again!
Wow. What quality work. I want to start learning how and now the bar is set really high.
Thank you I appreciate that! But my goal is to teach what I know! Anybody can learn this stuff! So stick around and I will teach and try my best to help you learn as much as possible!
I watched you do it and listened to what you said. Didn’t make any sense to me but it sure worked. Beautiful craftsmanship.
As a complete novice, I am very happy to see this. Easy to understand. I am going to have a MiG weld on two pieces of body panel that I am joining together and would love to see how you would do something like that. Not a 90 degree, more like 15-20 degrees.
Wow nice work, so easy to see the low spots go away when you were massaging with the slapper tool.
Lovely job! Very time consuming but hugely satisfying and therapeutic. Wear ear defenders!
Craftsman at work. You are a true artisan Sir.
Thank you kindly
Nice work ! Way to finesse it man it 5akes a delicate touch to do this quality of work! Your the man!
Yo thanks Mark! I appreciate that man! But anyone can do it, you just have to have the patience and the know how 😎👉
Great tutorial, thanks, benefitting from the honest video showing just how much hard, but precise work it is, requiring patience, concentration, dedication. I guess there should be mention of exercises for the forearm muscles and fatigue that comes from doing this all day! 😀
Hahaha that's for the comment and also yes, your four arms would look like Popeyes in no time if you did this all day every day😂
Man you make that look easy , What an artist
Thank you my friend!
Классное видео. Даже без знания английского любой кто имеет опыт работы с металлом или в автомастерской поймет о чем речь. Спасибо что делишься знаниями 👍🏽
Thanks for watching, I appreciate that!
Очень полезное видео. Очень хорошо показано. Видно куда наносится удар и как стерается маркер. Наверное лучшее на просторах интернета. Многие просто объясняют, но до конца не всегда понятно. А тут прям всё визуально. Просто класс!!! Спасибо вам! Смотрю с субтитрами. Перевод не всегда корректен, но смысл уловить можно. Ещё раз спасибо и удачи!
Very useful video. Very well shown. You can see where the blow is applied and how the marker is erased. Probably the best on the Internet. Many simply explain, but it is not always completely clear. But here everything is visual. Just great!!! Thank you! I watch with subtitles. The translation is not always correct, but you can get the meaning. Thanks again and good luck!
Thank you!!
Excellent work and technique. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching!
That's a great job, well presented. Subscribed. Thanks for making the video and for taking the time to upload.
Yo thanks for the Sub! And for watching!
Awesome vid mate, seems so easy when done by skilled hands. Keen to see more of that Metro though.
This is some real down to earth art work,Thanks for the video.Hope you are able to pass this on to a young man or women so this trade can carry on............................................................Fort Worth Tx
That's the plan my dude! Appreciate you watching and thanks for the compliment!🙏
I do what is called hammer welding, while the metal is still hot. I weld a little, then hammer that secton flat using the hammer and dolly. After I’m done hammer welding the whole section, I shape the section, with slippers, and slapping files. I don’t like to grind, because I don’t want to thin or weaken the metal. I only use the file for very fine finishing. If I need to do any slight shrinking, I use the knurled shrinking hammer, along with the slapping file. Works for me, but I’m old school, and learned these techniques over fifty years ago. Great job, Great video
Thanks man and thanks for the tip! I'll try hammering out as I weld! I appreciate you taking the time to comment and give me some tips!!🙏
Looks like art my man you're talented bro
Thank you! Much appreciated 🙏
Really enjoyed that, very clear concise explanation. I’ve a bit more work to do on my aluminium Landrover ‘fenders’ wings as we all them in the U.K. All the best , Mat
What up UK! I appreciate the kind words Mat, thanks for watching!
NIce work. I’m really glad I found this video.
Thanks !
Right on James! I'm glad you watched my video and hopefully you can take these tips and utilize em! Good luck! Thanks for watchin
Bro hell yeah sweet work!! I want to keep learning and learning all I can...thank you for sharing your information 🙏 greatly appreciated 👍
Absolutely brother! More to come! If you have any questions or anything specific you want to learn let me know! Thanks for watching!
It just keeps me wanting to learn more ..how you explain it just makes me want to go out and get into it...sweet thanks 🙏
I’ve been struggling with exactly that! I don’t have a wheel or air hammer and have yet to get my welded joints to disappear. I don’t know why I never thought about hammering up the adjacent lows first. Thanks for sharing!
Right on I'm glad this video helped you!!! That's the whole reason I started this chanel! Good luck with your project! Let me know if there is any other way I can help you through your project
Great demonstration !
Absolutely brilliant great quality workmanship ❤
Thanks my friend!
Awesome video you really are a BAMF ! Seriously thanks for sharing your time and hard earned skills man.
Yo thanks a lot man! I really appreciate those kind words! And I'll be sharing a lot more! Thank you for the view!
thanks for your video..i am working on my 84 alfa romeo spider right now,, this is some very good information
If you have a project your working on and if your new to metal work I would love to ask you some questions for a project I'm working on, if you wouldn't mind getting on a call with me I would greatly appreciate it! Also I would be happy to answere any more questions you might have on your project as well during our call. There is a link in my RUclips description to pick a day and time.🙏
Nice work Nate
Awesome! Thanks for sharing you knowledge and skill!
Absolutely! I have a lot more I'll be sharing. Thanks for watching!
@@BeAMetalFabricator Subscribed too. Just watched a few other your vids. Awesome stuff!!!
Awesome work!. great video
That shrinker tool was excellent.
Yes it works really well! You can buy one from proshaper.com check out Wray Schelin's ProShaper Workshop on RUclips he has some awesome videos
Fascinating work and beautiful results my friend you make it look easy but it’s a real skill that takes some serious practice and concentration to get that good I’m sure.
Gonna be getting myself some body working tools next week and pick up some cheap crappy damaged wings off of a scrap car and get practicing see what results I get I’m looking forward to having a go before I butcher my van lol great vid thanks 👍
Thanks @bigsquatchsasfoot! Yeah man the only way to really do it, is to do it! Haha remember you don't need expensive tools to get a fantastic result, some second hand hammers and dollies ground and polished work like new! Let me know if there is anything I can help you with on your project!
Wow....impressive
Thanks, I appreciate it
Nice! 11:32 80 grit to strip disc to DA was a satisfying payoff.
Haha agreed!
Very nice video. No bull?#$t, just showing the steps to accomplish. Thank you very much!
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching!
An artist at work!
🙏thank you!!
Nice work!!!
Thanks for the visit
Good job Nephew!
Thanks Uncle Richard! 🙏
Very nice techniques!
Glad you like them!
I’ve been wearing a welding glove when I dolly work to take some vibration out of my hands, it helped me.
Thanks man!! I'll keep that in mind! Thank you for watching!
Just beautiful!!! Won't even need any lead. LOL!!
That was outstanding!
Thank you man I appreciate that!
Nice work first of yiur videos I have seen the SUbscribed has been click looking forward to more of your instructional work
Thanks for the Sub! Definitely more videos coming soon!
Great video showing this work very hard to explian. To. Most people ido this on my own rides
Thanks man
Subscribed! Greatvideo man
Right on thank you!!!
Very nice!
Awesome work, thanks for this! Just found your channel today😊JR
Right on JR thanks for tuning in and checking it out!
Another awesome vid
Thank you for sharing. Love the metro
Thank you! stick around I will be doing a video on it soon
@@BeAMetalFabricator I look forward to it, I can use all the help I can get on my metro
Excellent work!
Thank you!
? What sort of tool were you using underneath? I can nearly see it in your left hand! Enjoyed your presentation! Thanks!
I'm using a body Dolly underneath. And I'm using the hammer on dolly method. Thanks for watching!
Any good body tech can metal finish a Volkswagen I worked at a VW dealership in the 70s
Very cool, thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching my friend
Hi, thanks for the great video. I can see the weld has been ground down on top but wonder if you also ground the weld underneath? Thanks
Yes absolutely! I ground the weld on the underside of the fender as well, its important so when you start planishing you get the best most consistent result possible
You took a class with Wray?
Yes, I made a rear fender for my MGA. Awesome class with Wray but still learning and picking up tips.
@@ianrenshaw6653 Nice! I took a three week class with Wray back in 2019. I built that rear fender for the 35 Packard in Wrays shop. Awesome class man!
Great work .
Thanks man
That "is how you do it"! 👍
I'd love to see same videos working with aluminium. I am about to start working on a 60s land rover and needs lot of work
Aluminum is pretty similar to steel. The nice thing about aluminum is you can anneal it! Wich makes it much easier to work. I do some pretty extreme shaping of aluminum in this video here: ruclips.net/video/qlCGw0J-OCk/видео.htmlsi=4EUpN3Z_QckcHb_g
@@BeAMetalFabricator Incredible 💀!! But that item has all the marks of the hammering. And I wonder how to work correctly parts for the auto body
Same way as steel. But best to have polished equipment like hammers English wheel etc. check out Wray schelin videos. He works aluminum in some videos and he is a true master!
Looks sick
Very informative video. Would you please be so kind to answer a question: did you consider using a birdseye pick on the tiny low spots before grinding? Also it appears that your grinder for the shrinking disk is not powerful enough. I had to get the gigantic makita before I got enough torque to really create any heat with that disk. Thank you.
What's up man! A bullseye pick could work! With a bullseye pick it's focust in a verry small concentrated area and can be quite accurate, it's essentially the same thing as a hammer and dolly. Also I'm pretty sure my grinder is adequate for the shrinker, if I'm not careful I can heat the panel blue. Seems to work just fine with good results. Thanks for watching!
An alternative method is to embrace welded joints until they become the norm. The rat rod people have been on to that one for quite some time with good results.
When you say embrace welded joints, are you talking about hammering the welds untill they are completely planished smooth?
@@BeAMetalFabricator naw he's just being a smartass lol
@@BeAMetalFabricator No, just leaving them in their raw state. I guess you could call them metal scars.
@@senorspiegel Really? You know my tastes or just want to dictate how things should be in the world?
@@amracewayoh ok I think I understand what your saying. And I could see doing that on a RatRod because they are not supposed to be pretty, But if your going paint these parts you want it to be as smooth and perfect as as you can get it to keep the plastic filler as thin as possible
hey tubal,if that is your name that's pretty cool i am a master mason {the fraternal master mason},love this video
Thank you bro!! That mason work is incredible dude! I love that kind of stuff!
👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏Good on you ! Thanks a lot👍👍👍👍👍👏👏👏👏👏👏
Thank you for watching! 🙏
What gauge is that metal? What is the thickness when finished? Seems like all that slapping and grinding would make the metal very brittle and would eventually crack.
Not brittle because I used the Tig welder. Metal is slightly thinner but not of a concern
Awesome job. End result speaks for itself. Perfect 🤌🏼
Yes! Thank you!
Very cool
Very nice work! When you finish this process, will you be hitting it with a light coat of filler or a high build primer?
Thanks for sharing!
With this job the customer only wanted me to do the metal work. I can do filler and primer but I really prefer to do metal fabrication over everything else. Thank for watching!!!
Would this work on mig welding ?
As welds are much larger than tig.
Well it depends, I never use a MiG if I am going to be stretching and planishing a weld. MiG welds cool a lot faster than Tig welds do which in turn makes them a lot less malleable. Hammering on MiG welds will eventually crack, most likely where the MiG weld meets the mild steel. So for this type of job Tig is best
Nice 👍🏻
Thanks for the visit
Great video ... i love pro-shaper Ray he's awesome would love to do one of his courses .. great to see someone that hasdoing awesome stuff, keep it up! the shrink disk, i've seen it looks awesome etc but i live in New Zealand and to get one over here is just to expensive, do you think tou could make one, and if yes how etc please
What's up New Zealand! Matt it's definitely possible to make one, Wray makes his, but that would be a somewhat complicated process, you would need to build a press die tool for the shrinking disk and for the backing plate that is strong enough to press stainless steel. Your best bet would be to buy one. Now if it's to expensive to get one sent from Wray, you can buy one from @Eastwood, @summit, @tricktools, eBay and even Amazon!
@@BeAMetalFabricator awesome that's great appreciate your time
Not exactly how I would of done it. You can only do this with TIG welds or OXY Fusion welding, Doesn't work with MIG. I would of used a slapper made out of a file but you would of had to hit it a bit more gently. Also would of used a proper steel body file to help take down the highs of the weld. I like the big steel flat disc you used on the 8 inch grinder, I have never seen that before, would love to get my hands on one to try it out. Note sure how you can get a proper feel for the panel with gloves on. Be interesting to feel the whole panel you have done not just that spot. Overall nicely done.
Thats art
Excellent tutorial , you have a great ability to teach ,and keep my attention, I’ve only seen Wray use a slapping tool ( I’m sure there is lots of videos with tin bashers using them) so does the slapper spread more of the stretching ?
Subscribed, and notification bell on! Looking forward to future videos!👍🇨🇦
What up Canada! Dude you have no idea how much this comment means to me. Your feedback made my day! I'm glad you got value out of this video and took time out of your day to write your message. This helps me stay inspired to creat more videos! So to answer your question, by using the "hammer on dolly" method in the low spots it stretches the metal bringing the Lows up, and since the slapper covers a large surface area it also lowers out the highs surrounding the lows to bring everything nice and level and consistent throughout the section of the panel being worked. Thanks again for the Sub! Let me know if you have any more questions
Ron Fournier was the guy who I first saw use this slapper method used back in the late 80s. Some of those old timers were amazing.
Dude them guys were amazing amazing back in the day! Not an ounce of laziness in em!!
What does the inside look like? Are both sides ground as close as possible first?
Yes! In order to get it as smooth outcome I ground the weld on the inside of the fender flat, trying to not grind too much of the adjacent material
Skillz!👊
Thank you! I appreciate that!🙏
What would happen if you took a grinder to the weld instead of stretching the metal with the slapper?
@jakeatencio305 So actually you do go at it with the grinder first and grind as much of the weld off as you can without grinding the adjacent material on each side of the weld as much as possible. But being that the metal isn't planished smooth yet, you can't 100% fully grind the weld until the highs and Low's are planished evenly which helps level the weld with the sheet metal for more grinding and make the panel consistent and look more seamless. I hope that makes Sense
I wondered the same thing
Hi are you going to be doing the front ones as well
The customer only wanted the rear ones done on this job
I'm speechless.
👍Thanks.
Pretty damn cool.
Damn.... perfect
Radical!
Thank you Curtis!
Skills!!
Thank you!!
Wow, like the elder did!
Hi Did you use filler wire in the TIg weld or just fusion?
Sup Mark, yeah I used filler rod. You definitely want to use filler rod because it adds material to grind off on both sides. This prevents the metal getting too thin and also having pits or craters in the steel when planishing.
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What's the magic of that slapper? Why not some kind of (more regular) hammer?
slapper covers a larger surface area, so it knocks down the highs while stretching the lows up level with the rest of the panel
How can you stand to file, hammer, and grind something that keeps moving?
The perseverance to get it done... You have any ideas on how I could have had that big awkward fender it in that position and kept it from moving?
@@BeAMetalFabricator
I sure don't.
I just know it would drive me bat shit crazy.
I fumbled with that fender for a while lol it was hard just to keep the thing on the stand in the correct position. So I had to just deal with the movement
Damn I’m going to use this to make my marker lights disappear
Just grind and fill with bondo like everyone else 😂
Are you slapping on dolly or off?
This is mostly on dolly
Hey I wanted to see you might be from NM? If so how can I get in touch with you for some work? Company name? Thanks Gabe.
What's up Gabe! Yes I am in Albuquerque. Message me on Facebook @ SpartanDesigns. That's my company name.
Отлично
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That is incredible so well done
Don't spray it with water: let it cool naturally. The water will harden the metal and more difficult to manipulate. You may even heat it with a paint remover heat gun to make it a bit more easy to manipulate. It might help you to get up the stubborn lows
Interesting method. Is there video to prove this to be true?
You use the same principle when using the planishing disk: the heat of the disk flattens the high spots. During paintless dent repairs they also warm up the panels to help to move the panels a little bit. Last but not least: hardening of metals is done by heating it up and to quickly cool it in water or oil. Would be very interesting to see if this would help you. Cheers!
Thanks for the tip bro!👍
As soon as I saw this MOFO. I knew he was going to know his stuff.
Hahaha Yo this is my favorite comment so far!! Hahaha thanks for watching