Router Lifter || 3D Printed
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- Опубликовано: 8 фев 2025
- 3D Printed Router table with PLA and TPU. Designed in Rhino 3D with Grasshopper.
This design definitely won’t replace proper router table and it definitely not as accurate as the ones on the market. But those are very expensive and require some basic woodworking knowledge what I’m lack of for now. This one as a temporary solution for beginners projects I think works well, it definitely will help me with several projects before I get proper router and build table myself. In addition, it is perfect for now to test some extensions I am designing for touter table.
3D Printed Jig Used: • How to Cut Circles in ...
3D Printed Metal Hacksaw Used: • 3D Printed Metal Hacksaw
3D Printed Ikea Extension Used: • 3D printed IKEA extension
To download 3d files check: ussadesign.com...
Instagram: / ussa_design
Patreon page: / ussa
3d printers used :
Artillery Sidewinder X1: amzn.to/318pRvN
Artillery Hornet: amzn.to/3m1MaPc
Creality Ender 3 V2: amzn.to/317DXNY
Artilery Hornet: amzn.to/3m38esJ
Creality official website: www.creality3d...
Creality Ender 3 V2: www.creality3d...
Artillery 3d official website: www.artillery3...
Artillery Hornet：www.aliexpress...
Camera gear:
Camera: amzn.to/3tOKV6K
Camera lens: amzn.to/3cbLSAa
Second monitor: amzn.to/3tO3pUZ
Microphone: amzn.to/3fbALZM
Lights: amzn.to/3sfYWdm
#woodworking
#DIY
#3dprinting
#ender3v2
#sidewinderx1
#artilleryx1
There is small error with red part that is rotating gear 12:42, it intersects with another part, here is how I fixed it:ruclips.net/video/2PQJ0MPxLYw/видео.html
Dude/Dudette, you are completely blowing it out of the water 🤓🧐🥳🤯🤑😷. From craftsmanship to camera angles to drop down info and links, you are on a different wavelength, kudos.
I just finished building the handrail on my deck ruclips.net/user/postUgkxfQ5_mgwq6PcudJvAH25t-I4D-3cTPz4z and used this great little router to clean up the top rail before the final sanding and stain. It was light weight but packed lots of power. Either size battery didn't seem to make it top heavy and I'm a 64 yr old women so I really appreciated how easy it was to use...................... CORDLESS only way to go !!
Brilliant job, nice functional result. Simulaneously showing off great 3D printing skills and the best advertisement for why commercial router lifts cost as much as they do - so much engineering to make something go up/down :)
Glad to finally see some representation for Rhino in the RUclips maker community.
I use Fusion 360. In Direct Modeling mode almost exclusively.
History kills creativity 😉
Nice! It's refreshing to see 3D printing used for something other than fantasy models.
I'd love to see one video detailing your thinking process when you design a project
A tip: Use graphite powder lubricant (commonly used for keyways in locks) for a mechanism that will be fairly exposed to dust (saw dust in this case 😁) & debris so as not to have the lubricant collect the dirt and turn into a gunky abrasive mess.
18 likes but NO! Do not use graphite lubricant on PLA or any other plastics. For plastic is the silicone- or the lithium grease are the proper lubricants. Or candle wax
@@dekurvajo or ptfe filled lubricant, even ptfe tape for threads, if tolerances allow...but yes, silicone is where it's at :)
This is genius! Mechanical router lifters are so expensive, if you ever go into production there’s a market waiting for you 👏👏🌹🇦🇺✌️
Thank you, thats the final goal of all projects on this channel
Inspired me to create a new "workshop ideas" save list. Also, I really dig seeing the prototypes and design process in Grasshopper.
Perfect. You can add dust collection canals to your design and use it with a vacuum.
Making the model via grasshopper? Omg you are a real monster 😂😂😂😂 *take hat off and bow*
It's awesome to see the design progressing between each iteration and I'm really glad you include the challenges of parts that caused trouble when printing. Alot of channels gloss over the quirks and issues and only show the final working project, again it's nice to see the challenges that you overcame.
In future videos could you add a time estimate between each revision? For example adding a quick comment under each version of a part that says (2 months) or (1.5 weeks)? I feel like I get slowed down by caring too much about the tiny details when I design and it would be awesome to get a better idea of the pace you have between revisions and what process or motivation you use to keep up your tempo.
Thank you and really enjoying the content!
WOW, I wish I had 1/10 your creative and design skills... but since I don't, I'll subscribe and hope you keep making tons of videos!
From one 3D designer to another, your work is impeccable.
Every design you make it's ABSOLUTELY STUNNING! Fantastic job, as always!
Thank you very much!
Love the screw-on table clamps for the replaceable tabletop.
Добрый день . У меня нет слов .Одним словом - Мастер -инженер .
Simply brilliant work
I'll definitely be ordering the plans and making this!
Brilliant Work my friend! It must have took you many hours of trial and error, thank you for that level of commitment. Next level? Casting this in aluminium? Long term poss, keep up the good work!
Pure eyecandy! Super clever design!!
This is so epic!,! Congratulations on the real applications of 3D printing.
Whoaw It's one of the nice 3D printing project I ve Ever saw!!!
May be just a comment on the guiding, The router merites more axial guiding to improve the static state...
Very cool and talented gear you make
that is pretty cool. Well done.
MAGNIFICENT
My friend, this job is wonderful. One suggestion, in guide you can put snap to vacuum .
thank you, Im working on it, gonna be one of the extensions I want to test on this one before building proper router table, I wanna try to connect vacuum also to that red part that closes router I think that way it can be more efficient, dont know if its feasible yet)))
Шикарная насадка, надо себе такую же распечатать.
Вывода на пылесос только не хватает.
спасибо, вывод на пылесос: ruclips.net/video/xHchbPS8pvc/видео.html
And you designed this in Rhino; with GRASSHOPPER!? You’re too good for Bosch for a start!
beautiful design!!
This should be printed in ABS or PETG. You need the strength and thermal performance of these materials or this design. PLA is only a 1 time use solution and will shatter or distort quickly.
I disagree, ABS and PETG have good durability, but PLA has better strength. It does have an issue with temperature tolerance and creep though, however I don't think that will be a huge issue in this design. Perhaps if he's using the router under high load/long duration.
PLA is totally sufficient for this kind of use. None of these parts will reach more than 45-50 C° it it goes above this, you have bigger problem than the PLA itself.
@@b5a5m5 and that's why this is a hobby, home-grade tool, not industrial. Totally agreed
Wow,great video,thnx for sharing
Beautiful design feels sturdy and practical
Great tool, but is it can hold out all that vibrates and pressure? is it a heavy-duty?
Very impressive! Great job. Cheers 👍😎🇦🇺
Amazing job!!! I do worry about the pla melting from the heat of the router around the threaded piece.
If its not gonna burn your hand it wont kill the plastic
@@burkjavel PLA will slowly deform in the sun on a warm day, it only needs 40-45C for it to begin to lose shape.
Would ABS be a better job for around the parts that get warm, and the top plate that sees the most sun?
@@LeeHalford there is a middle ground between PLA and ABS... PETG.
PETG filament (Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol), is a co-polyester known for its durability and ease of use.
PETG is perfect as it combines strength and ductility, which is why it's used in so many mechanical parts and robotics. It has great chemical resistance with good water, acidic and alkalic resistance.
Amazing work!
WOW!! GREAT JOB!
Can you please do a video on the making of such a device with emphasis on the software and what was going on with the split screen info on the right side of the screen? Thanks again
Good job. But i noitced two issues. 1.: Very small air inlet for cooling the router. 2.: On the small air inlet the router will suck all the dust inside to the motor. Have you somehow deal with this issues?
You have waaayyy too less subscribers! Really good design!
great work, but what router (brand-model) is this for? I'm new to routers... are all the same size?
You can put a switch (up/down) with a small motor!
In your opinion what is the best position on a workbench to fit the Router Lifter.
Just simply, WOW!
Bel lavoro , bravissimo !
Oh man, that Grasshopper script is like looking into a mirror.
Great project! How much time you spend for these project?
I am in no way related but I want to try giving an estimate (please feel free to answer) :
Give his experience and the design
- Design : 1-2h
- Printing : 8-12h (if things went really bad)
- Assembling : 2-4h (depending on if takes brake or doing on several occasions)
- Total : 11-18h would be my estimate
Whoa! I would guess more like 20-30h design. So many details, versions and decisions to be specified!
@@dejv123 You might be closer to the truth!
If I should guess:
Initial Design: 30-50h
Design Revision (each): 5-10h
It also depends on the possibility to work the full day on the design or after work.
Thank you for the question
It took around 7 hours to design first option 8:47, for the final model I would say 10 days in total might be more, testing different connections and trying different gaps is what takes the most time, in addition being new to such designs as locks mechanisms, gears and even testing thickness of the wall adds a lot of time
overall I would say
-Design: 10 days (80 hours)
-Printing (only final design): 2days 9 hours 43 minutes
-Assembling (no woodworking)：15 minutes
It's cool, but ugh, plastic at those high RPMs with a sharp bit receiving pressure when running pieces through it......I just wouldn't risk it.
And also: is it really so hard to fabricate from wood/metal using existing hardware? It isn't but I can imagine the fun in this as well. Need a printer xD
hello can you please make a video where you show the 3d CAD software you use?
What is name of this CAD program?
I am printing this model for the katsu/Anesty RO700 similar to the Makita RTO700. Just some customisation for the Anesty part 18 should have 65,4mm, the part 18 should have 65,4mm. Other part are not modifed, except part 19 which has been printed with a walls/horizontal expansion of -0,2 otherwise it is too narrow (even with lubricant) with my printer, if so then not anymore need lubricant. But right now not all is printed.
My issue has been solved with a new delivery of USSA ( sized adapted to my need), for Katsu / Anesty, use the version 18(TPU) size 65.3 and 17 (PLA) size 65,4, no need to use walls.horizontal expansion with those sizes.
The 13 has been redesigned (see USSA correction above), but another issue with the head of screw which has been increased in tall during this redesign, fix necessar to decrease the tall of 2mm.
Except thoses 2 adjustements, everything has been printed easily., not yet tested, i will update once done.
Just consider the time to print : Router parts with my setup for cura ( mostlty 60% infill):
Router main part: PLA (parts 1 to 11, 13 to18): 784gr , 250,01m 92h40mn, 14,17€ 39 parts to print based on PLA ( cost per kilo is 17,88€ and 317m),
Router main part: TPU (parts 19 and 12): 29gr, 9,21m, 5h24, 0,51€ , 2 pieces based on TPU ( cost per 1/2 kilo is 17,15 € and 170m)
Router equipment (parts 1 to 8) : PLA: 287gr, 91,93m, 29h51, 5,18€ , 11 pieces to print based on PLA ( cost per kilo is 17,88€ and 317m) .
I also made my own equipment copying ring for Katsu /Anesty for the 57mm (part 1) and 24mm (part 2) instead of using the one given, as i did not bought the tool to mill. ( 43gr, 13,64m, 0,77€ , 30%infill ) , so swap 60gr (60% infill) PLA of USSA to my own 42gr (30% infill)
Total : PLA ( 1071gr, 341,94m, 122h31mn , 19,35€ ) + TPU (29g, 9,21m, 5h36, 0,52€)
Another point, if you got any trouble, you can send an email to USSA, and each time I get a quick answer, (most of the time less than one day after).
You my friend are amazing!
You are under subscribed, lovely tool. Thanks.
I am tired of the 3D printer with i3 structure. You can try Flyingbear Reborn. I think this machine is good.
Yes, I think the structure of flyingbear Reborn is very stable. If you close the top of the machine, you can also print ABS.
Great design, lot's of iterations to reach final design. Nice job. What gave you more joy, design or use of bracket? Btw, why did you use PLA for parts that are under constant mechanical stress? They will deform quite quickly and parts will become loose.
What you would recommend to use instead of PLA?
Hi Could I ask one question what is the router bit that you use to cut into the table top
Hello, its makita 7.9mm router bit , D-59617
For what are the 6 holes in the rear and front of the board? The inner rows of 6 have caps but the outer rows of 6 are empty
Great job, thanks for sharing
Nice modeling job , as a future version, why not adding some vacuum support underneath, with collecting furrows, like a web around the tip of the tool ☺️
What is that flowgchart/node software for?
I built it and all function perfectly. But 2 questions: 1. the head of the median black screws are a bit too long and exceeds the panel. I had to reduce them in height- 2. The screws of the outer row are to long and I had to reduced the tip of the screws that touched the wood. How is it?
Those screws are for future extensions like upcoming exhaust system, for now they dont have any function you can just remove them
These trim routers not meant to be mounted upside down. The falling down chips will clog (and on a restart possibly break) the machine cooling fan. At the same time your plan does not allow dust extraction to be integrated.
Thank you for the information, I didnt know that these routers are not ment be mounted upside down, I will design dust extraction for it
@@ussadesign Love it. Presented with a problem, but not going to revert, going to improve to fix the problem
At 12:00, what size is your milling cutter? Thanks 👌
I already printed the lift and it works great! Now need to build my table 👍
Same question here; no answer yet... 😕
@@mildlemon7866 just fyi... the whole router lift didn't last long. After 2-3 times of use it was full with saw-dust and then it just did not move any more...
Great project and awesome video! What kind of software are you using? For the diagrams and 3d designing?
You did a great job. Can you post the settings for the support of the Sidewinder X1?
thank you, there are cura settings at the end of the video, but I discovered prusa slicer recently and it makes better prints with default settings in my opinion, would recommend using it
What about z-scale? should be handy!!
I just ordered both jigs from you. Are you using a Bosch GKF 550? Thank you for the great designs!!!
Muy buen diseño
Cómo puedo hacer para adquiri ese diseño para rooter inco pequeña
Вещь хорошая.
Только вот немного смущает приличный люфт при подъёме/опускании.
Фреза прямо ходуном ходит.
3D printed hacksaw :ø)
Will the router drop to the floor if the height is adjusted too low?
13:37 - Handling and changing bits, I personally would be worried if the router is powered at the wall, and the only thing stopping it from running is the on/off switch. Great idea, good prototyping!
Thank you, router wont drop to the floor, it woold come out from the rails and rotate with big gear
This is awesome. Any chance you would be willing to share one of your Grasshopper files? Not necessarily for this design or any of the ones you sell, just an example of your workflow. I have Rhino and have done some basic things with Grasshopper, but would really like to learn how you create these designs.
thank you, sure dm me in instagram and I will send you , scripts are mostly very basic just using points and curves to create simple shapes then use boolean tools to get final shape, a lot of repetition and related numbers to each other is what makes it look complicated
Super good 👍👍🇳🇱
This is pretty Awesome, but you will want to use a dry lubricant... so it doesn't attract sawdust and gum up the works...
What are the minimum printer bed dimensions for your prints?
What is the purpose of the mouse hole if you don't attach a vacuum hose behind?
You made.that design sir?
You should add a vacuum fitting so it doesn't fill up with chips
working on it right now, posting next week
@@ussadesign
My wallet is standing by.
Keep up the great work!
@@TriAxleTranny was this ever implemented? I' m gonna buy it if it does
What material are these printed with?
What was the CAD software that you used for this?
Rhino with grasshopper plugin
Pretty cool mechanism. But why the hell would you make somethig like this from PLA? Sounds like asking for trouble to me.
its pretty simple))) thats the only material I can print right now except TPU, overall PLA is not that bad I think, still have to learn how to print PETG seems its more suitable for such prints
Amazing!
Brilliant
Can you tell me what software you are using?
rhino 3d with grasshopper plugin
wow that's blown me away, what a fantastic job, you could make me one, could you? I would pay for it gladly.
What 3D software is that? Looks awesome
Thats Rhio 3d with plugin for it called Grasshopper
impressive! :o
Hey there,
Tried to read your printer settings at the end. But they are unreadable small :(.. I suspect you are not printing all at 100% infill. What are your settings to get right strength?
Hello,
I use 6mm grid for infill in cura or 20% infill in prusa slicer, ussually 3 wall line count and 4 if I need it stronger, the red part that rotates by drill has 6 wall line count and 40% infill. But I would still watch some tutorials on youtube to achieve better strength cause mine are not tested.
There's a noticeable wobble when you move the router up and down. Is it caused by a warped 3d printed part, or is it a layer height? Can it be mitigated somehow?
It’s because there is slide gap between thread and bolt as well as in inner rail guides 0.2 mm to be exact, to avoid this wobble I would have to make it very tide, it might have been possible with different printing orientation but in this case in vertical orientation it would just stuck. Overall that 0.2 mm gap doesn’t move router from the center once it fixed but it does create that wobble in up and down movement, another reason I think it’s because the whole router is a thread, if router would have only rails and thread would be a separated object it might have performed better, I am actually working on such combination now
@@ussadesign Thank you for detailed explanation!
Bravo!
Genius!
Hola, amigo.....muy interesante lo que tu haces, te felicito y quiero hacerte una pregunta, dado que estoy por adquirir una impresora 3D, cual me recomiendas..
Muchas gracias....
Bueno, yo compré una Artillery Genius. Funciona muy bien, tiene un extrusor directo (no tipo chicote).
Precio razonable. Pero te recomiendo actualizar el software, ya que de fabrica viene con una versión vieja de Marlin. Ah, importante, usa una memoria USB de baja capacidad (1, 2 o 4 GB está bien), a veces me sigue dando problemas, entonces uso una memoria SD, también de baja capacidad, con eso casi nunca tengo fallas de lectura. Suerte!
Vas a ver que anhelarás ver algo roto para poder imprimir una refacción! Ha ha
no respondas en español en un post en inglés. No todos hablan todos los idiomas del mundo. Ni se van a poner a traducir.
I want to buy FlyingBear reborn, can the blogger tell me its quality?
Круто. Но подходит только для мягких пород. В твердых и древесно стружковой плите будут сильные отклонения от вертикальности.
Are there any specs on this? Specifically for Bosch routers or universal?
65 to 70mm diameter dimensions with the step of 0.5 mm are available, in total 13 sizes, but if you have any specific number in that range you can send me an email
Whats the size of the top plate. Wondering how big print surface is needed.
185*185 mm
@@ussadesign Thanks. unfortunately to large for a Prusa Mini. :-(
Это просто круть!
I think i'll use the free designs available out there but nice try to grab sum money.
почему он пропал на вашем сайте из продажи?