On the charcoal canister from the fuel tank: There is a line that was under the charcoal canister that runs back across the car to the area around the starter. You can tie those two and then it will dump there. Personally I am so cheap that I want to use the vapor from my gas having played around with some southern engineered "bubbler" systems on old 80s pre obd vehicles where air is pumped into a fuel tank to vaporize fuel and the vacuum caries it into the runners through the tract Yeah its not a lot, but like I said I'm so ocd about efficiency that I can't just let that vapor go. On a boosted car you'll get more out of it than on a NA just because under boost its going to pressurize and shove that vapor in with the charge. Depending on the lift and duration of your cam EVERY little bit helps when it comes to the miliseconds of the valve event The resistor for the EGR is 10,000 (10k) 1/2 watt Great video this will help a lot of people
@@Daniel_Aviles yeah no problem. It’s always been weird to me people who want to hoard info like they weren’t ignorant at one point and had someone show them things and give them info to get where they are Recently had the big name in SC electronic repair refuse to tell me the size bulb for the climate control activation indicator led like it was a patented secret with talks of “the techs in back not releasing that info” 😂 They would replace it if I sent it in of course Closed my browser window that had 200.00 in repair parts and then ordered everything from China. Probably the same source they use even though they infer they make this stuff by rebranding it and talking about “our” quality Climate control LCD and gauge needle boards will be here in 3 days. I wanted to support them because I think the service to people who can’t rebuild electronics is a good one, BUT that rubbed me wrong
@@streetinfamy no prob Currently working out what appears to be a common issue of the shift lock board not allowing the car to move from park on automatics and the Speedo and/or tach motors going out when the gauge cluster gets pulled to change needle boards (or just doesn’t work on cold morning till you hammer fist the dash) The copper contact on 3 of the indexers I pulled (black box the the pin on the shifter slides into) were misaligned and 1 of the boards (the box that the indexer plugs into) had a blown capacitor (22uF 16v) Put the copper connectors back on track and replaced the cap and they all worked Looks like a cap issue on the gauge motor also although it looks like those need to be pre-charged before soldering them on the board Not 100% sure on that issue yet After this one’s back together next month I plan on swapping my 1jz in this 400 I found with blown trans Anyone know someone with a pedal set?!?!?
felt the need to put this here. i was following another video from someone going na-t at the same time as egr delete... then found this one. Biggest thing that threw me off was hearing in this video was if you aren't going turbo, you keep that system... No. throw that shit away lol. my car was revving to the moon barely touching throttle, then would just rev hang. I went back and pulled that vsv canister and just routed an intake line to the actuator and my car runs mint now. back to normal/but egr deleted. GET RID OF THE GIANT VSV CANISTER underneath the intake plenum. run a line from farthest left vacuum on intake, to the actuator (far right actuator, near injectors) instead of from that vsv to actuator. you're welcome. :)
been dailying mine this way for a year runs great haven’t had any issues with mine, but will give it a go, and see what happens, so to clearly put it run the canister vsv straight to the intake and then to the butterfly valve without the canister?
Yes as said in the video, unless you’re plugging the back, but the intake one is still required. You can make them but you need to make sure its vacuum tight.
I didn’t understand the last little bit at the end of the video. Your trac light is on because you manual swapped? I have a 96 auto and a 92 stock 5 speed and (don’t yell at me) I’m taking the w58 from the 92 and putting it into the 96 with all the manual parts just until I can get my hands on a r154. How can I keep the trac light off? And what is the best way to get rid of the vsv sensors littered around the 96 engine bay?
Also, I’m mid turbo install and I busted a vacuum hose on one of the vsv’s by accident and now the car will start but immediately stall so I’m thinking vacuum leak. How should I go around all the sensors?
Trac communicates with the auto, there is probably a way to trick it. I don’t need it so I haven’t removed the light and couldn’t tell you how. Not really a way to go around the sensors, the ones you don’t need you can simply route directly to what the line is for. If not needed you plug it. But some VSVs for example the heater core valve are necessary for you heat to work so you would need to replace it or plug it and run no heat.
Hey bro i have a 2001 lexus is 300 2jzge vvti. I recently had my timing belt changed out and idle is slightly shaky and my mechanic said its probably from vaccume lines. Do you have a video or explanation on how to connect the vaccume lines in the correct spots for a vvti 2jzge
It is the same as these, only difference is you do not have egr so all you have to do is route the lines. The simplest way is replace the lines already there one by one in the exact same spots.
Question - I have a stock IS300, I'm wanting to eliminate the black tube box under the intake manifold as you mentioned. Will you need to attach a breather filter somewhere to accommodate the removal of the black box under the intake?
@@Daniel_Aviles so you’re saying I need to remove the vsv sensor thing that is connected to the charcoal canister and keep the hoses routed? Sorry I’m doing a lotta research to get rid of the canister and plug stuff up, I was under the impression that everything including the sensor can be trashed.
@@danielgalan6518 The black canister can be junked. VSV opens and closes the throttle at a certain RPM, if you get rid of it and attach the hoses it will keep the Intake open. Therefore you need to keep the VSV routed to continue to open and close the valve if you’re staying NA, because it helps create mid range torque. If you’re going turbo then you should delete the valve in the intake, canister, and VSV altogether.
@@Daniel_Aviles thanks! Yes I’m NA and plan to be for a while unfortunately. I was originally under the impression that I needed to remove the vsv as well in order to complete the deletion of everything. Glad I asked.
@@Daniel_Aviles one last question, the VSV you're referring to is behind the intake, not the one attached to the black cannister under the intake, correct?
If you check out the pinned comment on top it explains it, I am not sure personally, but I believe he goes over it in detail in the replies as well good luck!
All the same, this is actually a motor out of a GS300, depends on the year though, if you have VVTI 2JZ they do not have EGR. Therefore no need to do this.
Its fine you can do the plug on the side, its not the end of the world it probably results in 0.1 hp lol. The main reason is to keep the temps in that area down. Hope this helps lmk if you have anymore questions!
Not its not worth the headache tbh. If my motor wasn’t out I wouldn’t have. To put a threader in there while the motors in bay would be near impossible and you probably wouldn’t be able to remove the shavings either. I don’t advise it.
soo.... since im NA, i just left the vsv connected (the one coupled with the black canister under the intake runners)-- i removed all other vsv's. is that correct?
@@Daniel_AvilesWait so if I’m NA, I can delete the vacuum box? You said in video “if you’re turbo” so i got confused as to what to do for NA. So do i need to keep the vacuum box and vsv with the vacuum diaphragm on the intake mani?
Unfortunately I do not know, technically speaking I would think not. If you have cats in your exhaust and no cel light is on and you pass smog I don’t see why not though.
Спорт
On the charcoal canister from the fuel tank:
There is a line that was under the charcoal canister that runs back across the car to the area around the starter. You can tie those two and then it will dump there.
Personally I am so cheap that I want to use the vapor from my gas having played around with some southern engineered "bubbler" systems on old 80s pre obd vehicles where air is pumped into a fuel tank to vaporize fuel and the vacuum caries it into the runners through the tract
Yeah its not a lot, but like I said I'm so ocd about efficiency that I can't just let that vapor go. On a boosted car you'll get more out of it than on a NA just because under boost its going to pressurize and shove that vapor in with the charge. Depending on the lift and duration of your cam EVERY little bit helps when it comes to the miliseconds of the valve event
The resistor for the EGR is 10,000 (10k) 1/2 watt
Great video this will help a lot of people
Thanks for filling in the resistor info. Also did not know the charcoal canister info either. Thanks for paying good information forward. 🙌🏼
@@Daniel_Aviles yeah no problem. It’s always been weird to me people who want to hoard info like they weren’t ignorant at one point and had someone show them things and give them info to get where they are
Recently had the big name in SC electronic repair refuse to tell me the size bulb for the climate control activation indicator led like it was a patented secret with talks of “the techs in back not releasing that info” 😂
They would replace it if I sent it in of course
Closed my browser window that had 200.00 in repair parts and then ordered everything from China. Probably the same source they use even though they infer they make this stuff by rebranding it and talking about “our” quality
Climate control LCD and gauge needle boards will be here in 3 days. I wanted to support them because I think the service to people who can’t rebuild electronics is a good one, BUT that rubbed me wrong
J rich ... you are a king for this type of info specifically , the resistor for the EGR is 10,000 (10k) 1/2 watt
@@streetinfamy no prob
Currently working out what appears to be a common issue of the shift lock board not allowing the car to move from park on automatics and the Speedo and/or tach motors going out when the gauge cluster gets pulled to change needle boards (or just doesn’t work on cold morning till you hammer fist the dash)
The copper contact on 3 of the indexers I pulled (black box the the pin on the shifter slides into) were misaligned and 1 of the boards (the box that the indexer plugs into) had a blown capacitor (22uF 16v)
Put the copper connectors back on track and replaced the cap and they all worked
Looks like a cap issue on the gauge motor also although it looks like those need to be pre-charged before soldering them on the board
Not 100% sure on that issue yet
After this one’s back together next month I plan on swapping my 1jz in this 400 I found with blown trans
Anyone know someone with a pedal set?!?!?
@@jrich436 drop your IG !
I learned so much from this man thank you for sharing your knowledge
Thank you for watching
Bro ive been looking for this for like 2 weeks straight
felt the need to put this here. i was following another video from someone going na-t at the same time as egr delete... then found this one. Biggest thing that threw me off was hearing in this video was if you aren't going turbo, you keep that system... No. throw that shit away lol. my car was revving to the moon barely touching throttle, then would just rev hang. I went back and pulled that vsv canister and just routed an intake line to the actuator and my car runs mint now. back to normal/but egr deleted. GET RID OF THE GIANT VSV CANISTER underneath the intake plenum. run a line from farthest left vacuum on intake, to the actuator (far right actuator, near injectors) instead of from that vsv to actuator. you're welcome. :)
been dailying mine this way for a year runs great haven’t had any issues with mine, but will give it a go, and see what happens, so to clearly put it run the canister vsv straight to the intake and then to the butterfly valve without the canister?
Wait straight to the actuator(butterfly valve) would keep it open all the time, which would be the same as removing it.
@@Daniel_Aviles did u end up trying it?
@@jaliennation9169 I did! Without the canister it did work. Routed the line thru the vsv and directly to the butterfly.
@@Daniel_Aviles any chance of a vid or diagram for the connections?
Your a life saver. Been looking on forms but no clear explanations.
hell yeah!
what is the blue sensor for do we need it
do you need the block off plates? or can you run it without them
Yes as said in the video, unless you’re plugging the back, but the intake one is still required. You can make them but you need to make sure its vacuum tight.
I didn’t understand the last little bit at the end of the video. Your trac light is on because you manual swapped? I have a 96 auto and a 92 stock 5 speed and (don’t yell at me) I’m taking the w58 from the 92 and putting it into the 96 with all the manual parts just until I can get my hands on a r154. How can I keep the trac light off? And what is the best way to get rid of the vsv sensors littered around the 96 engine bay?
Also, I’m mid turbo install and I busted a vacuum hose on one of the vsv’s by accident and now the car will start but immediately stall so I’m thinking vacuum leak. How should I go around all the sensors?
Trac communicates with the auto, there is probably a way to trick it. I don’t need it so I haven’t removed the light and couldn’t tell you how. Not really a way to go around the sensors, the ones you don’t need you can simply route directly to what the line is for. If not needed you plug it. But some VSVs for example the heater core valve are necessary for you heat to work so you would need to replace it or plug it and run no heat.
Hey bro i have a 2001 lexus is 300 2jzge vvti.
I recently had my timing belt changed out and idle is slightly shaky and my mechanic said its probably from vaccume lines. Do you have a video or explanation on how to connect the vaccume lines in the correct spots for a vvti 2jzge
It is the same as these, only difference is you do not have egr so all you have to do is route the lines. The simplest way is replace the lines already there one by one in the exact same spots.
Would look up how to check for vacuum leaks its pretty straight forward.
Whats a way I can contact you if you don't mind? Have a couple questions regarding canister and heater core
Lmk Insta is @danielxaviles
Question - I have a stock IS300, I'm wanting to eliminate the black tube box under the intake manifold as you mentioned. Will you need to attach a breather filter somewhere to accommodate the removal of the black box under the intake?
The vacuum tank can be removed just need to keep the VSV routed
@@Daniel_Aviles so you’re saying I need to remove the vsv sensor thing that is connected to the charcoal canister and keep the hoses routed? Sorry I’m doing a lotta research to get rid of the canister and plug stuff up, I was under the impression that everything including the sensor can be trashed.
@@danielgalan6518 The black canister can be junked. VSV opens and closes the throttle at a certain RPM, if you get rid of it and attach the hoses it will keep the Intake open. Therefore you need to keep the VSV routed to continue to open and close the valve if you’re staying NA, because it helps create mid range torque. If you’re going turbo then you should delete the valve in the intake, canister, and VSV altogether.
@@Daniel_Aviles thanks! Yes I’m NA and plan to be for a while unfortunately. I was originally under the impression that I needed to remove the vsv as well in order to complete the deletion of everything. Glad I asked.
@@Daniel_Aviles one last question, the VSV you're referring to is behind the intake, not the one attached to the black cannister under the intake, correct?
No CEL light?
If I wanted to do it with no cel, I have a 95 do you know resistor I would need? And where would it go?
If you check out the pinned comment on top it explains it, I am not sure personally, but I believe he goes over it in detail in the replies as well good luck!
Thank you! How do I do a gs300?
All the same, this is actually a motor out of a GS300, depends on the year though, if you have VVTI 2JZ they do not have EGR. Therefore no need to do this.
so is the turbulant air bad for the engine if i was to not tap that hole or does it really not matter?
Its fine you can do the plug on the side, its not the end of the world it probably results in 0.1 hp lol. The main reason is to keep the temps in that area down. Hope this helps lmk if you have anymore questions!
@@Daniel_Aviles I see do you think its possible to plug that hole in bay? i might give it a try but i feel like thats gonna be a pain.
Not its not worth the headache tbh. If my motor wasn’t out I wouldn’t have. To put a threader in there while the motors in bay would be near impossible and you probably wouldn’t be able to remove the shavings either. I don’t advise it.
The EGR plug will do just fine when and if you take the motor out in the future I would just do it then.
@@Daniel_Aviles ok thank you
soo.... since im NA, i just left the vsv connected (the one coupled with the black canister under the intake runners)-- i removed all other vsv's. is that correct?
Thats sounds correct, also found that you do not need the canister as long as the vsv for it is still routed. Good luck!
@@Daniel_AvilesWait so if I’m NA, I can delete the vacuum box? You said in video “if you’re turbo” so i got confused as to what to do for NA. So do i need to keep the vacuum box and vsv with the vacuum diaphragm on the intake mani?
Need the VSV not the vacuum tank
@@Daniel_Avilesany chance you can do a quick video on how those lines go? There’s 2 on the vsv correct?
This okay to do in California?
Unfortunately I do not know, technically speaking I would think not. If you have cats in your exhaust and no cel light is on and you pass smog I don’t see why not though.
what hub is that ?
For the steering wheel? NRG
@@Daniel_Aviles yeah imma dm you on ig
drop your IG my guy
@danielxaviles