Had my first fall yesterday with my new bike, the front brake was rubbing. The rotor was straight, i only had to center the caliper. Really useful video, thanks!
I bloody love the Don. He used the proper tool, but he could've gone old skool with the spanner, or even manually with the oily hands...he's not afraid to use them. What a guy!
sorry to be offtopic but does anyone know a trick to get back into an instagram account? I somehow forgot my login password. I would love any tricks you can offer me!
@Kyrie Derrick thanks for your reply. I got to the site thru google and Im trying it out atm. Seems to take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
as a new (ish) rider that wants to learn everything about bike maintenance, this video is gold. This was the first thing I needed to fix on my bike. Thanks :)
I found that using thin paper as a shim to put between the disk and the pads works great for centering. You can then put 2 pieces on one side and only 1 on the other to get it perfectly centered
Thanks mate! I was having a very challenging brake pad rub and squeaking problem on my new Ebike (Front and Back). Greasing the chain started this mess. Took me 3 hours after removing calipers and pads and giving them a thorough cleaning and adjustment. Thanks for the great vlog. Helped immensely! Cheers!
Thank you so much, my breaks were rubbing like crazy (but all the way around) so I did the method shown where you loosen the bolts a bit and press on the brakes, and that fixed it up immediately
A few months ago i went to true my front rotor, my finger got caught in the rotor at 90rpm. Top half of my finger got cut off and needed 10 stitches. My nail still isnt grown back.
I tried this method and although the rubbing was less I still had some. My rotor is completely new but I physically can’t get it to not rub. I think I’m gonna try finding a way to spread the gap between the pads if I can
As most cable actuated brakes have a stationary inner piston and the outside piston actually pushes the rotor over into it, the method for centering the brakes is a bit different. You have to put something between the inner piston and the rotor. I often use a thin business card (I keep it in my toolbox) for this purpose, but you can just fold a peice of paper and slip it in. You also have the ability to adjust how close the pistons are two the rotors on most good cable actuated brakes. Which is not covered in this video at all as hydros are self adjusting.
@@zadasteez5330 I don't have any bikes with cable discs on them any more. If I come across one I might just make a video though as there does seem to be a need.
Great video--thank you! Two quick questions. 1) A wheel that's not true will also cause disk oscillation within the calipers--so is truing the wheel a necessary first step? Or how can you tell if the disk is warped even while the wheel has a bit of a wobble? 2) On my bike I can't even begin to calibrate the brakes when the wheel (both front and rear) is dropped fully into its slot--I have to manually lift one side out a couple of mm's while cinching down the quick-release.... If I drop the wheel all the way into the slot I get huge rubbing with minimal (or no) brake power. Why would that be? Thanks! Cameron
How about a third reason? The pistons have too much resistance on the caliper and don't go back enough to give the disc some space. This is what my avid brakes are cursed with...
Thank you. The first suggestion on how to adjust the caliper worked for me. My bike is new and was making a slight humming noise when front wheel was moving side to side. Repair guy said it was cause brakes were new and it should stop. But nope, it got worse and I just did a tire rubbing test. Not sure why the repair guy couldn't just do that. Anyways, smooth now. Just have a prematurely worn brake.
How about a video on MB lights? I live in Scotland and we now face 6 months of dark rides after work. A video on what lights work and what is the best combo for XC, DH and single track. What do you guys use?
After doing all excellent suggestions in this very good video many times as well as bleeding, changing pads etc and failing to get free spinning, I clamped the caliper body with channel lock pliers and bent it back to straight in much the same way you would straighten the disc. This solved the problem. in my specific case a rock strike had bent the entire caliper body ever so slightly inward towards the wheel.
Can you do a video on how to remove and/or unstuck a stuck caliber piston? Or just how to do complete disc brake overhaul in general, both the caliber and the lever end. Thanks!
One thing that I sometimes try is to put my finger on the caliper such that I can feel also the disk rotor. Then I pull the lever and try to feel whether the rotor moves either side. If it does, it means that the caliper is not centered. Additionally, the direction of the detected motion suggests which way the caliper should be moved.
not easy to get the angle on those without a rack or something to hold the bike up and angled lol. but thank you, It was very helpful in fixing my problem :)
I was just looking after this at the moment this video came out. I even thought it was an advertisement from Facebook that tracked one of my Google searches. lol. Thanks!!
My breaks on my new bike are rubbing against my wheel and this video was helpful, thank you. Will putting grease around the breaks do any harm just to be sure it wont do it again and for extra protection?
This just saved me a costly trip to me local shop. My problem was so simple but I had no idea how to approach it. Thank you for the great and simple content.
Have you ever heard of the disc brakes dragging when it's hot out? I went for a ride today in the front and rear disc brakes were dragging. It was about 90 degrees today. I've written this bike before when it's warm out and it's never dragged but I ended up going to a store afterwards and pushing the bike into the store the brakes were dragging. But after being in the store for about 20 minutes (about 70 degrees with AC on) the bike was moving freely and the brakes were no longer dragging. Have you ever heard of something like this before? I am going to reset the caliper to the rotor.
Literally just had to sort out the calipers on my new nukeproof, thanks for showing as I generally have no knowledge of fixing bikes, fiddling with them...always worried i'll just make it worse. Cheers Man !!!!
fixed the rubbing sound thanks to this vid my only problem now is to properly tension the axle in my wheels cuz I dont have thru axles or quick release just the old style where u need to screw the frikin wheel
I have done all that and put a new rotar on and it still rubs can you elaborate on the seal service on the piston. It's only rubbing a bit but it's robing energy I would like to save. Thankyou for your help
I just recently found another potential issue: Lazy piston or stucked piston. I have to remove the caliper and give the piston some cleaning and oiling, make sure the piston are moving fore and back properly, before putting them back again.
does all these techniques work with mechanical disc brakes as well? i am riding a 2010 Gary Fisher Cobia 29er w/Avid BB7 mechanical disc front and rear.
For mechanical brakes the centering method doesn't work quite like that. To center my mechanical disk brakes I find that I have to screw in the non moving pad about a turn, Then loosen the caliper and proceed to squeeze the lever and tighten the bolts. Now this next step is important, To prevent the one side from rubbing u need to screw out the pad that doesnt move a touch until there is no longer any rubbing. Just remember to screw it in first at the beginning because you don't wanna keep unscrewing the adjustment screw as Im assuming that it will come out and mess things up
How do your let a couple drops of fluid out? My new Guides are doing this. I've aligned the calipers and it comes back after a ride or two. I may also need to take the bike in, might need to warranty the calipers. Figured I'd try to let our some fluid first though.
@@MarkusSwanepoel That will introduce air into the system. Best way is to re-bleed using a bleed block with an extra shim either side, that will ensure the system isn't overfilled.
@@MarkusSwanepoel Hardly overly complex since you need a cheap bleed block and a shim. A shim can be a cut up credit card. Home use? I'd prefer to do a proper job because brakes are probably the most important piece of equipment on a mountain bike after the wheels of course haha.
Hi GMBN. I enjoy watching your videos. They've helped me get started in the world of mountain biking, but I have one question for you. This video and another one of your videos shows adjusting post-mount disc brakes, which is fairly simple. I have a lower end mountain bike and the rear caliper has bolts that are perpendicular to the disc. Could you do a video showing how to adjust these types of brakes? I'm sure there are other riders looking for the same video.
Whenever I tighten down, the spacer between the frame and my caliper will always re-seat at a slight angle. Not sure why… Also, approximately, how hard do you tighten down the caliper bolts?
I've recently centered my disc brakes and they're pretty silent except for the front one which rubbs but only when I'm going out of the saddle. Also the noise only occurs when the bike is leaned on one specific side.
0:10 - There can actually be 3 reasons for brake rub: a sticky/stuck piston in the caliper. This might require professional service, or in some cases you can lockout the "good" piston, while lubing and using the lever to push the bad one (being careful not to eject it fully) to free it up.
I’ve seen many videos where they demonstrate “pushing the callipers back in” but my thoughts are always that if the callipers have failed to go back in at some point -hence the need to push them back manually, what’s to stop this happening again, surely there’s an underlying problem which needs addressing. Won’t pushing them back in manually only fix this issue there and then, and probably for a very short period? It’s like saying if your car repeatedly blows the same bulb the answer is to replace that bulb and bingo! It’s working again. Lol.
Hi Neil I have a mountain hardtail I've noticed recently when ever I applied the rear brakes the wheel is pulling on the side heavily, I've put spacers ,there's no play in the wheel everything is really tight,can you give so advice please thanks......
In addition to not cutting yourself in the rotor, mind you don't accidentally stick a finger through your still-spinning spokes when you go to center the caliper. That doesn't usually end well.
I just replaced the inner tube on the front and now that the wheel is back in place, it doesnt spin smoothly it stops.. so I have to maybe loosen the caliper? it just seems one side touching it just barely..
I have a problem after I've centered the caliper, when I apply the finishing torque to the bolts the torque makes it slide back into a bad position. How can I prevent this?
FIRST THING to do to find out whazup, is loosen the two bolts that hold the caliper, make sure its good, and loose, then spin the wheel, WITHOUT touching the brake lever, slowly tighten each bolt, (again WITHOUT touching the brake lever), after the bolts are tight, spin the wheel, IF it doesn't kick back a bit when it comes to a stop, ITS not free, then do all the other things in the video above..It works for me, never seen a video, nobody told me how to do this first check, its just common sense..
My front hydraulic disk brake is rubbing for couple of minutes only after jumping/bigger impacts. Any help or ideas why it happens or how to avoid it? After couple of minutes of breaking with front brake rubbing goes away on its own
My brand new shimano 203mm ice tech are like this one small area rubbing against pads and getting like a ticking sound when the front one heats up bent out the box
Hey guys, hail to the show and yourselves!! Our saviors from mechanical issues! So, the pads on my rear brake are not fully touching the rotor. They´re are more or less using half of the width of the rotor. What could be causing that?
help please...my rear wheel doesn't spin freely possibly due to my bike not being ridden for ages.ive got a 29" merida with disc brakes .how can I stop this problem..?
So what does it mean when my rotor makes a noise only at 30kph, even when I drop to 29 it goes away, very frustrating and no matter what I adjust, it's still there. These are brand new
Yeah thanks handy but I just changed my axle It was all out of line so I added couple washers to center it I think I should have put them in the lock nut on the racers oops crap just realised my gears probably need the same
6 years later this is still saving lives🙏🙏 thank you
Had my first fall yesterday with my new bike, the front brake was rubbing. The rotor was straight, i only had to center the caliper. Really useful video, thanks!
I bloody love the Don. He used the proper tool, but he could've gone old skool with the spanner, or even manually with the oily hands...he's not afraid to use them. What a guy!
sorry to be offtopic but does anyone know a trick to get back into an instagram account?
I somehow forgot my login password. I would love any tricks you can offer me!
@Marley Axton Instablaster ;)
@Kyrie Derrick thanks for your reply. I got to the site thru google and Im trying it out atm.
Seems to take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Kyrie Derrick it did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thank you so much you saved my ass !
@Marley Axton glad I could help xD
as a new (ish) rider that wants to learn everything about bike maintenance, this video is gold. This was the first thing I needed to fix on my bike. Thanks :)
I'm glad you made this video. I was about to take the brakes apart because I had no clue how to fix it.
I found that using thin paper as a shim to put between the disk and the pads works great for centering. You can then put 2 pieces on one side and only 1 on the other to get it perfectly centered
thanks for the tip.
Why would you put 2 pieces on one side and only one on the other?
to help center it better if it doesn't do that like Neil showed
RideWithMe I simply shine my bike light under the calapar the shuffal it over where it should be . Simple works for me . Tho the paper idea is good
Would this hold moisture?
Brilliant. The trick to loosen the bolts then pull the brake and tighten worked perfectly for me. Thanks!
Thanks mate! I was having a very challenging brake pad rub and squeaking problem on my new Ebike (Front and Back). Greasing the chain started this mess. Took me 3 hours after removing calipers and pads and giving them a thorough cleaning and adjustment. Thanks for the great vlog. Helped immensely! Cheers!
Thank you so much, my breaks were rubbing like crazy (but all the way around) so I did the method shown where you loosen the bolts a bit and press on the brakes, and that fixed it up immediately
Me too. So easy. Wish I would have done this months ago!
It worked an absolute treat. My wheel just spins and spins now. Tysm Neil
7 years on and still as valid as when it was made. Helped me loads this afternoon
Thanks for the help,that first tip for the Calipers worked great!
It really got into my head when riding. Thanks for helping!
A few months ago i went to true my front rotor, my finger got caught in the rotor at 90rpm. Top half of my finger got cut off and needed 10 stitches. My nail still isnt grown back.
Thanks!
*CRINGE*
When did I ask
Yep, lost tip of ring finger as well. Stung.
I had that problem few weeks ago is your nail still dont grown ?
Perfect timing on this video, front wheel is not spinning freely, now I know what to look for, thanks!
I tried this method and although the rubbing was less I still had some. My rotor is completely new but I physically can’t get it to not rub. I think I’m gonna try finding a way to spread the gap between the pads if I can
Great video, but this mostly applies to hydraulic brakes. If you have cable actuated brakes, it's a completely different beast.
As most cable actuated brakes have a stationary inner piston and the outside piston actually pushes the rotor over into it, the method for centering the brakes is a bit different. You have to put something between the inner piston and the rotor. I often use a thin business card (I keep it in my toolbox) for this purpose, but you can just fold a peice of paper and slip it in.
You also have the ability to adjust how close the pistons are two the rotors on most good cable actuated brakes. Which is not covered in this video at all as hydros are self adjusting.
William Keys thanks so much!! This helped me out a lot as I have cable disks
@@hardcore_adventures8329 Glad I could help.
William Keys you should make a video because i just got my bike and my cable disc brakes rub
@@zadasteez5330 I don't have any bikes with cable discs on them any more. If I come across one I might just make a video though as there does seem to be a need.
Great video--thank you! Two quick questions. 1) A wheel that's not true will also cause disk oscillation within the calipers--so is truing the wheel a necessary first step? Or how can you tell if the disk is warped even while the wheel has a bit of a wobble? 2) On my bike I can't even begin to calibrate the brakes when the wheel (both front and rear) is dropped fully into its slot--I have to manually lift one side out a couple of mm's while cinching down the quick-release.... If I drop the wheel all the way into the slot I get huge rubbing with minimal (or no) brake power. Why would that be?
Thanks!
Cameron
Thanks GMBN for the video that fixed my issue with a disk break making noise, saved me 💰 for taking to LBS.
Adjusting the calipers worked great...thanks!
How about a third reason? The pistons have too much resistance on the caliper and don't go back enough to give the disc some space. This is what my avid brakes are cursed with...
Powerslider if the pistons can't be pushed back in all the way then there may be too much hydraulic fluid in the system.
@@Henryisvegan That's maybe what the problem is with mine! Either that ... or just the pistons are too nasty and don't move well enough =\
Same here.
@@isaacbrooks5999 yea my NEW brakes dont want to retract and instead just keep grinding
@@AlexTheTech do you have plastic pistons? You should get metal ones if available.
Thank you. The first suggestion on how to adjust the caliper worked for me. My bike is new and was making a slight humming noise when front wheel was moving side to side. Repair guy said it was cause brakes were new and it should stop. But nope, it got worse and I just did a tire rubbing test. Not sure why the repair guy couldn't just do that. Anyways, smooth now. Just have a prematurely worn brake.
Thanks so much for this -my front wheel turns properly now 🙏
How about a video on MB lights? I live in Scotland and we now face 6 months of dark rides after work. A video on what lights work and what is the best combo for XC, DH and single track. What do you guys use?
Just replaced front and back and it worked well. The rubbing in the front is gone, ssst... Thanks!
After doing all excellent suggestions in this very good video many times as well as bleeding, changing pads etc and failing to get free spinning, I clamped the caliper body with channel lock pliers and bent it back to straight in much the same way you would straighten the disc. This solved the problem. in my specific case a rock strike had bent the entire caliper body ever so slightly inward towards the wheel.
Can you do a video on how to remove and/or unstuck a stuck caliber piston? Or just how to do complete disc brake overhaul in general, both the caliber and the lever end. Thanks!
There is a possibility that there is imperfections in the hubs itself. A case of bad machining resulting an off center rotation of the hubs.
you guys are saving so much of my workshop bill ... thanks
Can you please make a video on installing a single chainring without changing cranks
One thing that I sometimes try is to put my finger on the caliper such that I can feel also the disk rotor. Then I pull the lever and try to feel whether the rotor moves either side. If it does, it means that the caliper is not centered. Additionally, the direction of the detected motion suggests which way the caliper should be moved.
It helped me with my talon and the brakes are as good as ever
Great video. Just did what the video said and it worked for me.
not easy to get the angle on those without a rack or something to hold the bike up and angled lol. but thank you, It was very helpful in fixing my problem :)
With my brand new disc and a little rubbing noise on my front wheel, it work the first time using first technique.
I was just looking after this at the moment this video came out. I even thought it was an advertisement from Facebook that tracked one of my Google searches. lol.
Thanks!!
Cheers gmbn, haven’t been able to sort line out until I watched this video. Nice one.
Thanks for your help! Brake Disc not rubbing anymore!
Always fantastic videos. Straight to the point, love it.
My breaks on my new bike are rubbing against my wheel and this video was helpful, thank you. Will putting grease around the breaks do any harm just to be sure it wont do it again and for extra protection?
hollie tube me tube if you put grease on it then it won't stop
@@MaxLaboratories yep, i tried it and it made it worser. In the end i found out that i need the rare disc breaks and the breaks replacing
thanks Gmbn... you got my brakes running better than when it was brand new!!!!!
This just saved me a costly trip to me local shop. My problem was so simple but I had no idea how to approach it. Thank you for the great and simple content.
Have you ever heard of the disc brakes dragging when it's hot out? I went for a ride today in the front and rear disc brakes were dragging. It was about 90 degrees today. I've written this bike before when it's warm out and it's never dragged but I ended up going to a store afterwards and pushing the bike into the store the brakes were dragging. But after being in the store for about 20 minutes (about 70 degrees with AC on) the bike was moving freely and the brakes were no longer dragging. Have you ever heard of something like this before? I am going to reset the caliper to the rotor.
That’s exactly what mine does. Drives me bonkers. Any fix?
@@htimst1967 nope, I have had no fix for this. But I haven't had a chance to get it looked at either
Corey Shultz Cheers
Literally just had to sort out the calipers on my new nukeproof, thanks for showing as I generally have no knowledge of fixing bikes, fiddling with them...always worried i'll just make it worse. Cheers Man !!!!
fixed the rubbing sound thanks to this vid my only problem now is to properly tension the axle in my wheels cuz I dont have thru axles or quick release just the old style where u need to screw the frikin wheel
Thanks so much! First place I go for help with my bike!
Thanks for this video, had problems with this one for quite a while.
I have done all that and put a new rotar on and it still rubs can you elaborate on the seal service on the piston. It's only rubbing a bit but it's robing energy I would like to save.
Thankyou for your help
I just recently found another potential issue: Lazy piston or stucked piston.
I have to remove the caliper and give the piston some cleaning and oiling, make sure the piston are moving fore and back properly, before putting them back again.
Thank you very much bro I appreciate you helping the community
Hey. When will jerseys be available?
does all these techniques work with mechanical disc brakes as well? i am riding a 2010 Gary Fisher Cobia 29er w/Avid BB7 mechanical disc front and rear.
thanks, got both tires spinning great , ty for the help
For mechanical brakes the centering method doesn't work quite like that. To center my mechanical disk brakes I find that I have to screw in the non moving pad about a turn, Then loosen the caliper and proceed to squeeze the lever and tighten the bolts. Now this next step is important, To prevent the one side from rubbing u need to screw out the pad that doesnt move a touch until there is no longer any rubbing. Just remember to screw it in first at the beginning because you don't wanna keep unscrewing the adjustment screw as Im assuming that it will come out and mess things up
Would it be wise to check the wheel is seated straight first?
Please can we have a Top Gear style cheap bike presenter challenge?
Unfortunately they have too many sponsors from high end companies to do something like this, it would be cool though
i have an solution fot that.. just use oldschool scott or canyon.. or GT :) like in the early 90' or 02'..
This is happening guys! We're working on it...
Oskar Niessen yessss Ive been suggesting this for forever
Use a DMR Trailstar hardtail with plus tyres over a rooty rocky sprint 👌
Mine actually had too much oil in the lines, so I had to let's a drop or two out so that the calipers can move back a bit more.
How do your let a couple drops of fluid out? My new Guides are doing this. I've aligned the calipers and it comes back after a ride or two. I may also need to take the bike in, might need to warranty the calipers. Figured I'd try to let our some fluid first though.
@@ejhayes76 loosen the grub screw on the brake lever and pull on the brake slowly.
@@MarkusSwanepoel That will introduce air into the system. Best way is to re-bleed using a bleed block with an extra shim either side, that will ensure the system isn't overfilled.
@@richardjones2811 overly complex tools required for a normal home user. But sure, there is always a better way.
@@MarkusSwanepoel Hardly overly complex since you need a cheap bleed block and a shim. A shim can be a cut up credit card.
Home use? I'd prefer to do a proper job because brakes are probably the most important piece of equipment on a mountain bike after the wheels of course haha.
Thanks for getting right too it
Wish I watch this video 4 years ago. Thank you!
Hi GMBN. I enjoy watching your videos. They've helped me get started in the world of mountain biking, but I have one question for you. This video and another one of your videos shows adjusting post-mount disc brakes, which is fairly simple. I have a lower end mountain bike and the rear caliper has bolts that are perpendicular to the disc. Could you do a video showing how to adjust these types of brakes? I'm sure there are other riders looking for the same video.
Whenever I tighten down, the spacer between the frame and my caliper will always re-seat at a slight angle.
Not sure why…
Also, approximately, how hard do you tighten down the caliper bolts?
By seeing this video i troubleshooted my disc brake problem. Thanks
This just helped me fix my problem. thanks.
I've recently centered my disc brakes and they're pretty silent except for the front one which rubbs but only when I'm going out of the saddle. Also the noise only occurs when the bike is leaned on one specific side.
0:10 - There can actually be 3 reasons for brake rub: a sticky/stuck piston in the caliper. This might require professional service, or in some cases you can lockout the "good" piston, while lubing and using the lever to push the bad one (being careful not to eject it fully) to free it up.
I’ve seen many videos where they demonstrate “pushing the callipers back in” but my thoughts are always that if the callipers have failed to go back in at some point -hence the need to push them back manually, what’s to stop this happening again, surely there’s an underlying problem which needs addressing. Won’t pushing them back in manually only fix this issue there and then, and probably for a very short period? It’s like saying if your car repeatedly blows the same bulb the answer is to replace that bulb and bingo! It’s working again. Lol.
top vid guys!
this cleared it up for me! thanks!
Do you think those "floating" brake discs with rotor attached to some kind of spider rather than one-piece ones are less likely to bend?
Cheers this just sorted my breaks out a treat😘
I have a question. I’m not sure what it’s called but the metal bit in-between the pad and disc moves back and forth I’m not sure how to fix it?
Hi Neil I have a mountain hardtail I've noticed recently when ever I applied the rear brakes the wheel is pulling on the side heavily, I've put spacers ,there's no play in the wheel everything is really tight,can you give so advice please thanks......
Hey mate! Thanks for the video, it fixed my problem thanks to you. Godspeed
Excellent information! Solved my problem right away.
Thank you sooooo much literally the video I needed to fix the annoying sound my brakes were making
In addition to not cutting yourself in the rotor, mind you don't accidentally stick a finger through your still-spinning spokes when you go to center the caliper. That doesn't usually end well.
Great info as always.
My rear disc brake pad just got worn out half in 3-4 rides I wonder what's the problem
I just replaced the inner tube on the front and now that the wheel is back in place, it doesnt spin smoothly it stops.. so I have to maybe loosen the caliper? it just seems one side touching it just barely..
Yeah I cut my finger really bad when it got clamped between one of the disk spokes and the caliper
Just purchased a Norco Fluid 3 FS noticed my front disc making a squeeky noise when I corner hard to the left.. Pissing me off big time
I have a problem after I've centered the caliper, when I apply the finishing torque to the bolts the torque makes it slide back into a bad position. How can I prevent this?
FIRST THING to do to find out whazup, is loosen the two bolts that hold the caliper, make sure its good, and loose, then spin the wheel, WITHOUT touching the brake lever, slowly tighten each bolt, (again WITHOUT touching the brake lever), after the bolts are tight, spin the wheel, IF it doesn't kick back a bit when it comes to a stop, ITS not free, then do all the other things in the video above..It works for me, never seen a video, nobody told me how to do this first check, its just common sense..
My front hydraulic disk brake is rubbing for couple of minutes only after jumping/bigger impacts. Any help or ideas why it happens or how to avoid it? After couple of minutes of breaking with front brake rubbing goes away on its own
Thanks! You helped me with a problem!
Thanks GMBN helped me out alot
Straight to the point :), thanks man this worked out for me
My brand new shimano 203mm ice tech are like this one small area rubbing against pads and getting like a ticking sound when the front one heats up bent out the box
Hey guys, hail to the show and yourselves!! Our saviors from mechanical issues! So, the pads on my rear brake are not fully touching the rotor. They´re are more or less using half of the width of the rotor. What could be causing that?
Thanks gmbn so much I needed this Video
help please...my rear wheel doesn't spin freely possibly due to my bike not being ridden for ages.ive got a 29" merida with disc brakes .how can I stop this problem..?
my rear wheel isn't running freely..think it might be coz I've not been riding for ages.is this video any help to me..?
How much does the bike weigh?
Thanks mate. Helpful stuff
Long nose pliers works pretty well to
So what does it mean when my rotor makes a noise only at 30kph, even when I drop to 29 it goes away, very frustrating and no matter what I adjust, it's still there. These are brand new
Yeah thanks handy but I just changed my axle It was all out of line so I added couple washers to center it I think I should have put them in the lock nut on the racers oops crap just realised my gears probably need the same
I find it’s better to take the cassette off to straighten the rear rotor to not have the freehub noise.
Welp I owe you a thanks and a subscribe lol. I loosed the caliper and did exactly what you said worked like a charm!
Question... what if you dont have disc brakes but the same problem
Adjust your cable tension
that means your wheels are untrue. true the wheels and adjust the tension :)
Replace Bicycle.