Hi, I just wanted to bring to your attention to some of the hazards when working with uncured epoxy resin and the importance of proper safety when working with this class of chemicals. Because resin art in the last few years has exploded in popularity and has been marketed as a very beginner friendly material, a lot of people don’t view uncured resin as hazardous, and will forgo basic safety precautions. You should ideally check the Safety Data Sheet for the specific of resin your using, as different brands/lines/products have different risks, which are not generaly displayed on the packaging. But as a rule of thumb, you should not let uncured resin come in contact with your skin, know that mixing part A and B at the wrong ratio can result in resin that never fully cures, to work in a well ventilated space, and to wear a respirator as most resins produce toxic fumes while it cures.
@@PotterytothePeople All of the above made this video a bit stressful to watch, although even some big DIY channels and professional woodworkers can be messy and extremely casual with epoxy, treating small and massive batches of it like regular white glue. Make sure to keep your hair, clothes, etc. pulled and tied back, and remove hand and finger jewelry even if you're wearing disposable gloves. Any towels you use to clean up epoxy might be ruined (may be able to peel off some cured resin, may still have plastic shards and dust in them during and after washing), and the epoxy may ruin wood tabletops or other surfaces as they cure (heat, bubbling) and harden (possible to carefully scrape/chisel and sand it away depending on the surface and finish, e.g. using a heat gun and putty knife after a spill is cured on a wood table and re-finishing it, and wearing a dust mask whenever sanding plastic or wood). So, consider using paper towels and working over a silicone mat or at least a flexible cutting mat. These aren't a huge problem/risk when using small amounts once or twice, but people can be messy and careless regardless, and can end up damaging their property or getting injured or having other health issues for themselves, children, and pets.
especially also keep in mind that (correctly) cured epoxy is pretty much inert, but the individual parts can give you all kinds of cancers potentially, which is why the gloves are pretty important.
When I was little my grandpa used to repair broken dishes with kintsugi, the tea cups would have little seams of gold fixing the handles backing place. I thought it was magical, I once brought him a blue birds egg shell to fix
Our friends bought us some lovely green vases as a wedding present. They broke in transit, so they used kintsugi to repair them, and now I love them even more. Both for the look of the gold, but also the personalized effort.
You can get food safe epoxy, but you have to be careful that its properly certified food safe. (Quite a few will suggest they are because they lack BPA, but they often wont make it explicit because thats not the only chemical that can leech out.)
I'd be wary of any "food safe" epoxy labels. Sure, they can label them as food safe, but until the FDA clears them for long-term, high-heat food contact, I'd avoid using epoxy resins. The original kintsugi technique uses Urushi lacquer, which is food safe!
@@dawnchesbro4189 Me too. Besides what it could or could not do when fully cured under ideal conditions, the fact remains that you'd be just DIYing and might not get the ratio or curing conditions absolutely right to get the stuff to a food safe state.
I'm glad you guys are not calling it Dutch gold. With all the anti Dutch expressions in American English, my ancestors have been hated/feared in the past.
Struggle is learning. Or it ends up in happy accidences. I really love to expirement and have thoose ahhh moments. And I love to see creater have it as well 😉
@@Lemu_with_a_shirt The FDA considers both gold and several film finished (such as lacquer) safe for consumption. There are quite a few specialty products that contain gold and also a lot of products in the grocery store are are coated with lacquer to make them more attractive. Also, most metal cans are coated on the inside to keep the metal from interacting with the food - sometimes that is lacquer. Epoxy and whatever they use for the fake gold are probably not safe for consumption. Lacquer is after all a plant (or animal) product. Shellac (a type of lacquer) is the spit of the Lac bug - hence its name.
@@connecticutaggie yes I am aware of that, but when heating things up, which people often do with some stoneware, you have to be aware of things such as melting, and that can get tricky with natural resins as well as shellac. Kintsugi does not make things "good as new", that is visually evident, but not everyone realises it's structurally important as well.
@@Lemu_with_a_shirt I agree that Kintsugi is primarily for decoration and is probably not structurally sound enough to use for table or cooking but saying it is not "food safe" just adds more complexity/misinformation to a subject that already has plenty of lore and misinformation.
Oh my gosh I’ve always wanted to do this. My autistic son was helping with the dishes and mistakenly dropped my absolute favorite tea mug. I collected all the pieces and will now get a kit and repair it!!! Even though I’ll not be drinking from it, it’s going to go on my shelf because I love it so much.
Vinegar also works great at stopping epoxy from curing you can line the edge of your piece you don’t want epoxy to squish onto and then it can just wipe off once the epoxy is set
With the traditional kintsugi it is food safe! There are some Japanese owned stores in Amsterdam that sell kintsugi kits. If you’re ever in the area! I repaired my boyfriend’s broken dishes when I was over. The weather is similar to the US Southeast and east Asia in the summer so the heat and humidity let the lacquer cure faster, using lacquer is more forgiving than epoxy since you can shift it around before it sets. Instead of brass powder (for gold look) you can also use pewter powder, copper powder, and even aluminum powders for different seam colors. I’m my favorite is pewter for a tarnished, black color.
For future reference, it's my understanding and experience that epoxy sets faster as humidity rises. To ensure optimum "open or working time" plan the repairs to be done in an arid environment, however small it may be. Happy trails! 😊
The new and improved bowl is beautiful. I commend you for stepping out and trying something new. I love kintsugi! Pro tip: Save yourself some money go buy a tube of 5-minute epoxy and some gold mica powder. That's all that is in that kit and they're jacking up the price on you by making it "convenient"! You could probably get some pretty mica powders or even gold foil with the money you save from not buying a kit. 😊 Also you can clean the epoxy up before it cures by taking a paper towel or a wet wipe with some that isopropyl alcohol and wiping down whatever you're trying to clean. Whatever you do please be very careful when handling uncured epoxy without gloves. Some people can have extremely serious allergic reactions to epoxy, and it is really not a good idea to get that stuff on your skin or inhale the fumes.
Love the video thanks for showing your whole process. My only concern is ventilation and gloves nut maybe you have an air evac system I’m not aware of. I also hate gloves but they are important for prolonging my skins life. I found a tattoo product website and they sell small gloves that fit my hand so they are not annoying to wear
The 'color powder' is generally mica, which is a natural material. Also if you warm the ceramic before starting, you don't have to hold it together as long because epoxy curing time is temperature sensitive
Whenever I glue something like this back together, I generally try to find a common plain between the pieces, and set them onto a flat surface so they will have support through the process. For instance, your bowl pieces all have the common plains of the top edge and bottom flat surface, and the most support will be achieved by the top edge upon the flat surface of the table. You will have an inverted (upside-down) bowl on the table, allowing all pieces sufficient support while gluing them together. 😉😊 If further pressure is required between pieces to achieve max strength, carefully wrap a wide strap or belt around the circumference and snug it up, but not so much that the pieces buckle together or spread the cracks on the bottom surface. In your case maybe masking tape around both the broad circumference and the base to equalize the pressure on the glued surfaces.
Sorry about your bowl, but thankyou for giving this technique a go. I agree about the feeling of pressure, having to mix an amount, applying, fixing and clean up all under the time constraints of it fixing/ going off is alot of to put on yourself. I could feel the pressure and I'm just sitting here holding my breath😊i I liked the clean line you had once wiped off, but looking at the 2nd try, I think I prefer a slightly larger 'mark' of the gold showing. My heart sank when it fell apart, but to saved it😅 might have to try the cheaper version of this, thanks Mia😊
I do this. After I glue to pieces back together, I use UV resin and Jacquard’s Pearl Ex powdered pigments. I mix just a little of the powdered with resin, and then with a toothpick or a silicone brush apply it to the crack. Finally I leave it out in the sun to cure
that turned out so cute! But please always be careful with epoxy, it is pretty toxic stuff. Depending on the epoxy, you should wear protective gear like masks, respirators, gloves, etc. That is of course most important if you are regularly exposed to the stuff
Some chemistry spatulas have a small wheel that when rotated vibrates the spatula just a little bit helping to dislodge the contents. Search terms include "vibration spatula". Costs vary a lot, but I found a few for as little as €30.
Perfect inspiration and help! I have a broken plate and I wanted to fix it with this golden seam but I never found the energy to figure it out. 😅 Now you gave me every answer I needed.... 😊❤
That is kind my motto take it and make it. My craft room aka living room is full with things I use for different projekts even though (or becouse of) it is broken. I love this idea and the outcome. Thank you for sharing
I'm having trouble knowing when to use engobe, underglaze, glaze and paint like cobalt blue and such. I know engobe is before bisque firing, but underglaze I've seen people use before and after. The oxide oaint is suppose to be after glaze and before the glaze fire right? I would be so thankful if you could help me 😊
I love the piece! I have a question kicking around in my noggin though: Could you use mortar or grout to reassemble broken pottery pieces? I'm really curious what that would look like. It wouldn't be food safe, but I'm very curious how it would look.
I've been working with some modeling pastes and plaster of paris in my artworks, and I wonder if epoxy and mica powder in different colors could give a variation on this effect? I really love it.
is there any way to make a bowl food safe again like reglazing with clear glaze, although that would mean going back into the kiln so I guess it wouldn't work with the epoxy maybe with the genuine kinsugi or another way to repair broken pottery that you could then cover in gold, glaze then fire?? p.s id love you to show us the genuine kinsugi technique too, and maybe an other ways you know how to repair broken pottery
I work at Portland Japanese Garden in Oregon, and we're currently showing an amazing kintsugi exhibit in our gallery. (If you just happen to be in the area.) 😉
I’ve been binge watching your channel. So interesting and inspiring. I don’t work with pottery myself, I make polymer clay sculptures and mixed media miniatures but I love what you do ❤.
I have created my own kit. Got myself a 2 part epoxy at hardware store. The kind that turns into putty. You can later scrape off the excess with the exacto knife. Then I used alcohol based gold paint over it. It gives mirror like effect, when shacen well before and applied correctly. Ofc it is not food safe, but it works just as well. I do not think you need any special kit if you are going to do "modern kintsugi".
I don't know why they use epoxy in these kits. It's not food safe. And it can be such a pain to work with: It requires at least some ppe. You need to get the ratio right or it might not fully cure (best case you won't notice as it still might geht hard enough to work as an adhesive, worst case it won't ... and there's always potential it might give off more nastiness when not fully cured). The stuff has no initial adhesion to speak of - you need to race against curing time, but also fix things while curing (you were still lucky with that plate and those simple breaks, but anything where you cannot rely on shape and gravity to hold things in place while curing can become a sticky mess really fast). Honestly, blasphemous as it sounds, I'd look into ca glues for broken pottery - even if I wanted to mimic something like Kintsugi. But ngl, those come with their own caveats and you kinda need to learn how to use them.
![[Basic Kit] Traditional Kintsugi Tutorial - Food safe method - Broken ceramics](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HSQWRxaKEyw/mqdefault.jpg)
Hi, I just wanted to bring to your attention to some of the hazards when working with uncured epoxy resin and the importance of proper safety when working with this class of chemicals. Because resin art in the last few years has exploded in popularity and has been marketed as a very beginner friendly material, a lot of people don’t view uncured resin as hazardous, and will forgo basic safety precautions.
You should ideally check the Safety Data Sheet for the specific of resin your using, as different brands/lines/products have different risks, which are not generaly displayed on the packaging. But as a rule of thumb, you should not let uncured resin come in contact with your skin, know that mixing part A and B at the wrong ratio can result in resin that never fully cures, to work in a well ventilated space, and to wear a respirator as most resins produce toxic fumes while it cures.
thank you for this! I had no idea. Pinning this comment for others 🙌
@@PotterytothePeople All of the above made this video a bit stressful to watch, although even some big DIY channels and professional woodworkers can be messy and extremely casual with epoxy, treating small and massive batches of it like regular white glue.
Make sure to keep your hair, clothes, etc. pulled and tied back, and remove hand and finger jewelry even if you're wearing disposable gloves.
Any towels you use to clean up epoxy might be ruined (may be able to peel off some cured resin, may still have plastic shards and dust in them during and after washing), and the epoxy may ruin wood tabletops or other surfaces as they cure (heat, bubbling) and harden (possible to carefully scrape/chisel and sand it away depending on the surface and finish, e.g. using a heat gun and putty knife after a spill is cured on a wood table and re-finishing it, and wearing a dust mask whenever sanding plastic or wood). So, consider using paper towels and working over a silicone mat or at least a flexible cutting mat.
These aren't a huge problem/risk when using small amounts once or twice, but people can be messy and careless regardless, and can end up damaging their property or getting injured or having other health issues for themselves, children, and pets.
I'd suggest watching Steve McDonald Arts and Crafts safety videos also. He goes into detail on PPE and the hazards.
especially also keep in mind that (correctly) cured epoxy is pretty much inert, but the individual parts can give you all kinds of cancers potentially, which is why the gloves are pretty important.
When I was little my grandpa used to repair broken dishes with kintsugi, the tea cups would have little seams of gold fixing the handles backing place. I thought it was magical, I once brought him a blue birds egg shell to fix
lovely ❤️
Our friends bought us some lovely green vases as a wedding present. They broke in transit, so they used kintsugi to repair them, and now I love them even more. Both for the look of the gold, but also the personalized effort.
How lovely 🥹❤️
You can get food safe epoxy, but you have to be careful that its properly certified food safe. (Quite a few will suggest they are because they lack BPA, but they often wont make it explicit because thats not the only chemical that can leech out.)
I never heard of food-safe epoxy!
I'd be wary of any "food safe" epoxy labels. Sure, they can label them as food safe, but until the FDA clears them for long-term, high-heat food contact, I'd avoid using epoxy resins. The original kintsugi technique uses Urushi lacquer, which is food safe!
@@dawnchesbro4189
Me too. Besides what it could or could not do when fully cured under ideal conditions, the fact remains that you'd be just DIYing and might not get the ratio or curing conditions absolutely right to get the stuff to a food safe state.
My guess is that the color powder is mica. It's really cool how you can turn something broken back into something beautiful.
oh wow thanks for the idea! I think I
might write the shop owner to ask :)
That was my guess too, gold mica
I'm glad you guys are not calling it Dutch gold. With all the anti Dutch expressions in American English, my ancestors have been hated/feared in the past.
So nice you show the WHOLE undertaking, not just the perfect proces. That’s how we learn. And laugh 😂
It's rare that there isn't a bit of struggle in my projects 😅😂
Struggle is learning. Or it ends up in happy accidences. I really love to expirement and have thoose ahhh moments. And I love to see creater have it as well 😉
it's a little more planning required than it seems... definitely not just simply gluing 2 things together.
Note that gold and shellac are both food safe so I believe the original Kintsugi process is food safe.
Yes, but I think it is more vulnerable, and not great with heat, if I understand correctly.
@@Lemu_with_a_shirt The FDA considers both gold and several film finished (such as lacquer) safe for consumption. There are quite a few specialty products that contain gold and also a lot of products in the grocery store are are coated with lacquer to make them more attractive. Also, most metal cans are coated on the inside to keep the metal from interacting with the food - sometimes that is lacquer. Epoxy and whatever they use for the fake gold are probably not safe for consumption. Lacquer is after all a plant (or animal) product. Shellac (a type of lacquer) is the spit of the Lac bug - hence its name.
@@connecticutaggie yes I am aware of that, but when heating things up, which people often do with some stoneware, you have to be aware of things such as melting, and that can get tricky with natural resins as well as shellac.
Kintsugi does not make things "good as new", that is visually evident, but not everyone realises it's structurally important as well.
@@Lemu_with_a_shirt I agree that Kintsugi is primarily for decoration and is probably not structurally sound enough to use for table or cooking but saying it is not "food safe" just adds more complexity/misinformation to a subject that already has plenty of lore and misinformation.
@@connecticutaggie yes, but I never said it's not food safe, I agreed with you and then shared additional information.
Oh my gosh I’ve always wanted to do this. My autistic son was helping with the dishes and mistakenly dropped my absolute favorite tea mug. I collected all the pieces and will now get a kit and repair it!!! Even though I’ll not be drinking from it, it’s going to go on my shelf because I love it so much.
Vinegar also works great at stopping epoxy from curing you can line the edge of your piece you don’t want epoxy to squish onto and then it can just wipe off once the epoxy is set
I use kintsugi for my sculpture works. Try using different color mica powders. It comes in all sorts of colors including chameleon color shifting!
With the traditional kintsugi it is food safe! There are some Japanese owned stores in Amsterdam that sell kintsugi kits. If you’re ever in the area! I repaired my boyfriend’s broken dishes when I was over. The weather is similar to the US Southeast and east Asia in the summer so the heat and humidity let the lacquer cure faster, using lacquer is more forgiving than epoxy since you can shift it around before it sets.
Instead of brass powder (for gold look) you can also use pewter powder, copper powder, and even aluminum powders for different seam colors. I’m my favorite is pewter for a tarnished, black color.
For future reference, it's my understanding and experience that epoxy sets faster as humidity rises. To ensure optimum "open or working time" plan the repairs to be done in an arid environment, however small it may be. Happy trails! 😊
The new and improved bowl is beautiful. I commend you for stepping out and trying something new. I love kintsugi!
Pro tip: Save yourself some money go buy a tube of 5-minute epoxy and some gold mica powder. That's all that is in that kit and they're jacking up the price on you by making it "convenient"! You could probably get some pretty mica powders or even gold foil with the money you save from not buying a kit. 😊
Also you can clean the epoxy up before it cures by taking a paper towel or a wet wipe with some that isopropyl alcohol and wiping down whatever you're trying to clean. Whatever you do please be very careful when handling uncured epoxy without gloves. Some people can have extremely serious allergic reactions to epoxy, and it is really not a good idea to get that stuff on your skin or inhale the fumes.
0:29 OMG!!! IT'S ME, I LOVE YOU!!!
Love the video thanks for showing your whole process. My only concern is ventilation and gloves nut maybe you have an air evac system I’m not aware of. I also hate gloves but they are important for prolonging my skins life. I found a tattoo product website and they sell small gloves that fit my hand so they are not annoying to wear
The 'color powder' is generally mica, which is a natural material. Also if you warm the ceramic before starting, you don't have to hold it together as long because epoxy curing time is temperature sensitive
Can you re-glaze it? Is it possible, maybe with a transparent glaze? Or maybe the resin won’t stand the heat…
No, the high temperature will burn out the epoxy and it will fall apart in the kiln and the glaze will glue the pieces to the shelves.
Whenever I glue something like this back together, I generally try to find a common plain between the pieces, and set them onto a flat surface so they will have support through the process. For instance, your bowl pieces all have the common plains of the top edge and bottom flat surface, and the most support will be achieved by the top edge upon the flat surface of the table. You will have an inverted (upside-down) bowl on the table, allowing all pieces sufficient support while gluing them together. 😉😊 If further pressure is required between pieces to achieve max strength, carefully wrap a wide strap or belt around the circumference and snug it up, but not so much that the pieces buckle together or spread the cracks on the bottom surface. In your case maybe masking tape around both the broad circumference and the base to equalize the pressure on the glued surfaces.
Sorry about your bowl, but thankyou for giving this technique a go. I agree about the feeling of pressure, having to mix an amount, applying, fixing and clean up all under the time constraints of it fixing/ going off is alot of to put on yourself. I could feel the pressure and I'm just sitting here holding my breath😊i I liked the clean line you had once wiped off, but looking at the 2nd try, I think I prefer a slightly larger 'mark' of the gold showing. My heart sank when it fell apart, but to saved it😅 might have to try the cheaper version of this, thanks Mia😊
I do this. After I glue to pieces back together, I use UV resin and Jacquard’s Pearl Ex powdered pigments. I mix just a little of the powdered with resin, and then with a toothpick or a silicone brush apply it to the crack. Finally I leave it out in the sun to cure
nice tip, thank you!
You can also use painters tape to hold the broken pieces together while the glue dries and cures
Hahah, love that you said "i thought this would be relaxing!" Because, i get the feeling! Sometimes art is *not* relaxing at all!
Looks great, well done! Your piece lives to be admired for a long long time
that turned out so cute! But please always be careful with epoxy, it is pretty toxic stuff. Depending on the epoxy, you should wear protective gear like masks, respirators, gloves, etc. That is of course most important if you are regularly exposed to the stuff
oh wow, I had no idea! thanks ❤️
I just finished a few years of learning traditional kintsugi. I’d love to buy a broken piece and give it a second life.
Some chemistry spatulas have a small wheel that when rotated vibrates the spatula just a little bit helping to dislodge the contents. Search terms include "vibration spatula". Costs vary a lot, but I found a few for as little as €30.
Perfect inspiration and help! I have a broken plate and I wanted to fix it with this golden seam but I never found the energy to figure it out. 😅 Now you gave me every answer I needed.... 😊❤
amazing!!!
That is kind my motto take it and make it. My craft room aka living room is full with things I use for different projekts even though (or becouse of) it is broken. I love this idea and the outcome. Thank you for sharing
Wow - it looks amazing. Loved learning about the history as well.
I'm having trouble knowing when to use engobe, underglaze, glaze and paint like cobalt blue and such. I know engobe is before bisque firing, but underglaze I've seen people use before and after. The oxide oaint is suppose to be after glaze and before the glaze fire right? I would be so thankful if you could help me 😊
I’ll be repairing the cracks in my life with gold 😅
✨❤️
I love the piece! I have a question kicking around in my noggin though: Could you use mortar or grout to reassemble broken pottery pieces? I'm really curious what that would look like. It wouldn't be food safe, but I'm very curious how it would look.
I've been working with some modeling pastes and plaster of paris in my artworks, and I wonder if epoxy and mica powder in different colors could give a variation on this effect? I really love it.
Started watching all of your videos about a week ago and was running out of videos to watch. So glad you posted!
That looks great! The color powder thing is probablly a mica powder
Oooh you should try like 3 different Kintsugi kits like a cheap kit a middle of the pricing and then the expensive kit!
I definitely would love to try the real thing someday 🙌
Mia, Mia, Mia, I was just watching a video on this last night!!! You're incredible!
Wow, thank you! ❤️
After using the epoxy on a dish, could you then dip it in clear glaze and fire it in the kiln to make it food safe?
No, the high temperature will burn out the epoxy and it will fall apart in the kiln and the glaze will glue the pieces to the shelves.
is there any way to make a bowl food safe again like reglazing with clear glaze, although that would mean going back into the kiln so I guess it wouldn't work with the epoxy maybe with the genuine kinsugi or another way to repair broken pottery that you could then cover in gold, glaze then fire??
p.s id love you to show us the genuine kinsugi technique too, and maybe an other ways you know how to repair broken pottery
I work at Portland Japanese Garden in Oregon, and we're currently showing an amazing kintsugi exhibit in our gallery. (If you just happen to be in the area.) 😉
The Japanese embassy in Iceland actually held a little kintsugi workshop a few months ago. I find it really cool
Lovely, saved the piece. That 5 min curing time would make me panic a bit.
Kintsugi - "a happy little accident" for potters :D
canny :) .. my sister got me a kintsugi kit for christmas.. the following week she gave me her favourite bowl to fix heh :)
haha smart sister 😂
Although expensive, traditional kintsugi will allow your piece to still be food-safe (if food-safe glazes were initially used)
Nice to see! Thank you for sharing ❤
I’ve been binge watching your channel. So interesting and inspiring. I don’t work with pottery myself, I make polymer clay sculptures and mixed media miniatures but I love what you do ❤.
Love your work :)
And here I thought it was actually a molten metal used to bond the clay back together. Thanks for the education!
I have created my own kit. Got myself a 2 part epoxy at hardware store. The kind that turns into putty. You can later scrape off the excess with the exacto knife. Then I used alcohol based gold paint over it. It gives mirror like effect, when shacen well before and applied correctly. Ofc it is not food safe, but it works just as well. I do not think you need any special kit if you are going to do "modern kintsugi".
I don't know why they use epoxy in these kits. It's not food safe. And it can be such a pain to work with: It requires at least some ppe. You need to get the ratio right or it might not fully cure (best case you won't notice as it still might geht hard enough to work as an adhesive, worst case it won't ... and there's always potential it might give off more nastiness when not fully cured). The stuff has no initial adhesion to speak of - you need to race against curing time, but also fix things while curing (you were still lucky with that plate and those simple breaks, but anything where you cannot rely on shape and gravity to hold things in place while curing can become a sticky mess really fast).
Honestly, blasphemous as it sounds, I'd look into ca glues for broken pottery - even if I wanted to mimic something like Kintsugi. But ngl, those come with their own caveats and you kinda need to learn how to use them.
So awesome
What are the songs in this video
11:16 "why did all the epoxy go to the back side?"... because of Gravity!
Not only should you wear gloves you should ventilate at least and ideally wear a respirator, epoxy is super toxic even if it has no noticeable smell!!
Do know most of the epoxy ones are not food safe yeah ✌🏻
I dont like that you used the gold so sparingly that it did not filled the cracks😢🙋🏼♀️🌷
Epoxy glue doesn’t ‘dry’, it ‘cures’.
I always heard that once cured, epoxy is food safe. Where does this apply or not apply?
That's false. There are some epoxies that may be food contact safe in the right conditions, but it's not something to rely upon for the time being.
It’s prolly Micha powder
There is a gold glaze you didn't tested yet.
As a resin crafter, thats mica powder.
thanks for the info!!
@@PotterytothePeople ah, ive been noticed, i must lurk deeper.
Always wear gloves when working with epoxy. You like your skin dont you.
And keep alcohol or hand sanitizer at hand for cleaning your work surface, it gets old real fast to try cleaning with water and soap.
eh epoxy
What are the songs in the video