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Solder won't stick to your iron? Here's how to fix it (easily) with a lil Iron Tip Maintenance!
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- Опубликовано: 16 авг 2024
- If you're trying to make a looooovely stained glass piece and your solder keeps falling off your iron, it's time for a lil maintenance😀
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00:00 Opening
00:05 Intro
00:20 Sponge Cleaning
00:37 Visual Inspection
00:54 Tinning Your Soldering Iron Tip with Tip Tinner
01:30 Soldering Iron Storage
01:51 Outro
I get problems with carbon buildup that even tip tinner doesn't fix. Is it okay to sand it off then tip tin?
Hakko recommends only non-abrasive cleaning of tips or you can ruin them. You can try brass (not steel!) wool for a lil extra oomph, followed by the tip tinner. There is a possibility that your tip could be too far gone at this point & may need to be replaced.
Regular use of the sponge or brass wool (I do prefer the sponge) will help prevent future buildup and prolong the life of your tip.
Excessive temperatures (or accidentally leaving your iron on overnight...I've never done this on three separate occasions...ahem😁) can also decrease the life of your tip...are you working lead or lead free? What temps are you running?
@@mountainwomanproducts it's an off brand non adjustable iron. I use lead-free exclusively. In my experience the brass brush suggestion is great for stubborn carbon. I have also discovered that certain fluxes are prone to more carbon buildup than others. I just wanted to know your thoughts and I appreciate the feedback.
@@rennitinkerdork2477 Anytime! I'm always happy to help. 😀Excessive heat can definitely do it too and I'd say, if not your flux, is the likely root cause. If you can see your way to it, I definitely recommend the Hakko since it has temp adjustment right on it, or at very least get a rheostat so you can control temps a bit better.
@@mountainwomanproducts while we're on the subject. if I ever get a hakko what's your suggested temp for lead-free? Thanks again I appreciate everything.
@@rennitinkerdork2477 You're welcome! Anytime for realz. 😀It's gonna depend on the brand & variety you get because, unlike 60/40, most every brand is made of different combos & percentages of metals. I'd say a general rule for most lead free, unless manufacturer states to start lower, (like the solder used for lead free hobby came) would be to start around 410ish & work your way up based on how well it's flowing for you and how fast or slow you solder. Personally, I run Amerway Ruby around 440ish and Amerway Emerald around 460ish.
Have you ever had an issue with the solder not sticking to the copper? This is happening to me, and I have never hd this issue before. Any recommendations? Thank you!!
Yuppers! It can be a couple of things. Is your foil old/oxidized/dirty? Are you using enough flux? And, are you keeping a separate container to dump just a lil flux in to use for each soldering session or are you dipping into the flux bottle? Lemme know and we'll iron it (hehe! that was totally accidental but I'm claiming it) all out.😁
I read in your blog post that you actually prefer Emerald solder to Ruby. Is that still your preferred solder? I do hope you do a video comparison of the different lead free solders some day!!
I used Ruby forrrrrever, but recently tried Emerald. I like the Emerald better mostly because Ruby takes 952 bazillion years to polish😁. A lead free comparison video is on my list!
I'll havevto try Emerald! I'm hating Tourmaline. Much better luck with Ruby but weird satiny finish
Your advice has been truly helpful! Best out there for lead free!! One more question...what temps are you running your iron at for Emerald and Ruby? Im assuming higher for Emerald? @@mountainwomanproducts
Yay! Thank you!! 🥰I do solder really fast, so depending on your speed, ya may want to start a little lower & work your way up if you need to. I do 450 for Ruby and 460 for Emerald.@@debratryanowski620
I got the comparison done 😀 Here it is: ruclips.net/video/RJyanPpwkYU/видео.html