After watching numerous videos about this subject, you have the very best explanation that I have found. Thank you very much and a thumbs up to you brother.
Good detailed video. One thing worth mentioning is the 2 slots on the back of the castle nut against the sling plate is made for center punching the plate to allow expansion into the castle nut further locking it all together.
It only took me 3 hours, lost the little spring THREE times, along with the other spring and plunger. I found this video way too late, but it got me on track after my wife found all my parts in my garage. I had no idea this would turn into a great afternoon.
Sorry it started off so badly for you but glad to hear that everything worked out. And glad that I was apart of it. Thanks so much for watching and sharing your story.
I just want to give you a shout-out for making such a detailed video. I was a bit apprehensive about doing this change out but this video helped me replace my buffer tube in about 10 minutes! Thanks again!
Awesome to hear. And pretty much the whole point of this channel. To be something for the average gun owner who can't spend thousands upon thousands on Guns or on special parts. Or to Send off for repairs or mods to a gunsmith. But actually be able to do it themselves. So congrats, and thanks for taking the time to comment..
Thanks for the excellent video. I just replaced my buffer tube & butt stock following your detailed instructions. However, I did have ONE small problem. Per your instructions, I noted the buffer retention spring/pin. And I also noted the small takedown pin spring between the buttstock collar tube lock and the lower receiver. However, while unscrewing the buffer tube slowly to prevent the small takedown pin spring from flying out, I completely forgot about the buffer retention spring & pin, and they flew out into my workshop! Mortified, I started moving all of my woodworking power tools around to find the proverbial needle in the haystack amongst the sawdust. Ugh! When I had all but given up hope and was ready to order the parts from Brownell's, I moved a small Home Depot plastic bag out of the way and the pin and spring fell out onto my router table!! The day was saved and my AR-15 now has a brand new buffer tube & butt stock!
Great video. Was able to add my ambi sling mount on with a cheap Chinese tool in about 15 minutes. Also added a mlok bipod, an optic and a flashlight in another 15. I freaking love the AR platform. It's so intuitive
You forgot to mention: when taking out the spring after loosening the castle nut, behind that spring is a little pin, be sure that doesn't fall out and get lost, that's what the spring sits on
Yes... however, all that pin, and spring, does is put tension on the rear take-down pin. So, on my Leviathan Ragnarok, you don’t have to remove the pin, and spring. They are held in place with a set screw. I messed around with it for no reason... almost lost the spring in the garage. 🤦♂️
EZ way to save the small spring under the plate is thread the hole with a 3/56 tap and put a set screw in the hole spring is permanently captured but easily removable if needed
I never saw a place for that spring on my AR-10... I looked everywhere and found no place for a spring except to hold the buffer in,,, is it the same on a At-10???
great video! California bolted the buttstock onto the buffer tube, so I had to go and get myself a brand mew buffer tube just to replace my buttstock...but now I need a stock lock....sometimes I feel like I hate California lol
@@RustyGuns I went to a gunsmith, he put it in a vice, got a castle wrench about 4 feet long, and had two people bust it. It definitely wasn't an easy one for them!
YOU ROCK! I would have been so lost on my own especially not having that perfect tool. 1) what is that tool called & how much $ are they typically? Not covid prices. We are still getting screwed on everything, i hadn't spent 100% msrp in i think my entire life till recently. I need to do this soon and definitely you already have helped me with o taining this knowledge. It's quite easy but i can see how it's one of those things that the first time it's a nightmare,especially the tiny screws and that plunger thing.
@@RustyGuns thanks guys. I told my brother whos in the reserves and has tons of toys so he gave me an extra one. Man, i love to hear other people's thoughts as long as they align with mine,lol. Only regarding guns. Im pretty left but the AOCs wanna make us powerless for when the day comes that we truly have to deal with a threat. FUN FACT: NAZIS TRIED TO MANIPULATE MEXICO INTO INVADING THE SOUTHWEST. MEXICO DENIED THE IDEA CAUSE THE BIGGEST THREAT WAS THAT EVERY AMERICAN HAD THEOR OWN RIFLES EXACTLY WHERE THEY WANTED TO INVADE (TO RECLAIM ALL TBE PLACES WE TOOK NOT LONG BEFORE, few 100 yrs) Just knowing that an armed civillian area was enough to make an invasion far less appealing and that much more less likely to occur. That in itself is proof enough we need to preserve our right to bear arms is it not?
I have the same type of armorer's wrench but I used the other castle nut tool (with the 3 tabs next to the one on the end that you used) for castle nut. It was easier for me but they both work. Thanks for the video. I was not sure how difficult it would be to get a staked castle nut off. It did take some elbow grease but I was able to do it without a vise.
great video, very concise and step by step without dumbing down. do want to know though, what is the purpose of the 'hide-y' spring? the little one that you insert from the bottom against the sling mount plate? as I had a several messages back n forth with the online sling seller, i do wish they had advised me about the castle nut tool. but i got it half way down and now after watching this a couple times i should be able to do it NP once my tool arrives ( i would NOT advise using a channel locks...ugh). thanks
It is the rear takedown pin spring that keeps pressure on a detent. Which prevents any chance of the rear takedown pin from working itself loose or coming out.
Hi. What is the brand of the ar tool you are using to remove buffer tube and replace sling mount? Thank you, I’m trying to buy one and want to make sure I get the right tool. Happy new year!
Thank you sooo much! Had a bit of trouble at first, almost lost the spring to the pin that you need to hold down, but thanks to you I got my sling attachment on. Great video!
What’s the advantage of a commercial vs mil spec buffer tube? I have an aero mil spec and palmetto mil spec on both my 16” rifles. What is the advantage of a commercial one?
I'm sure someone out there will say their is. But I've never seen one. Main reason may just if there is a particular butt stock you like maybe be set up for one.
On my AR it looks like the end plate is staked into the castle nut gap. Is this common? Is there a need to do this? Any locktite needed in the threads?
Unfortunately staking is common but not necessary otherwise every one would be. But some companies understand people are going to do upgrades so they don't stake. Yes you can use a drop of lock tite if you feel the need. But I haven't and have had no issues. But my gun is not your gun so I can't say for certain that you should or shouldn't. Good question though, thanks.
Is it possible to add a slingmount on my SB Tactical BA-AK Stock Adapter ? I just don't know if the threads are the same on the ak adapter n ar adapter or if it's even possible to remove the ak adapter n place it back on
off the top of my head, I would say no without doing some modification. Or without seeing the gun. But maybe someone else has tried and be of more help.
Why it is hard to charge my m4 and it feels like it's scratches something when I pull it / charge it , and some times it won't get pull so I have to leave it and try to pull it again and it charged.
It could be the charging handle. Most do make a light scratching noise but you should be able to pull it back. I would try a different charging handle. Maybe borrow a friends and see if that is in fact the problem.
You can but mine wasn't staked at the factory, and I have never had an issue. If you're a little worried about it backing off, you can use a little thread tape or a drop of locktite. Staking it just makes for more hassle if you need to remove it.
I have a small gap between the upper and lower in that area. I read the castle nut and buffer tube can be adjusted to eliminate this gap. Is that true? If so, how do I do that?
If it's along the entire thing it can't. However don't worry most milspec do not fit completely tight. The buffer and castle are on the lower and turn inward on the lower so I'm not sure how that can in anyway tighten the gap between the two. But again most milspec AR'S have that little bit of movement between the two.
If I go from commercail to Mil Spec buffer tubes do I have to change any other parts (other than the stock). I have a nice stock with a rubber pad I would like to use but it wont fit my commercial buffer tube.
@@RustyGuns thanks! I was looking at all my different rifles that I bought fully assembled and all but one of them were staked. the FX-9 I recently bought was not staked. my Springfield saint victor was and I just used a little cheap castle nut wrench to undo that staked castle nut it really didnt take much force. I guess it doesn't really matter. ill just make sure it's nice and tight on these ARs im building
I know its a 5yo video. Im still learning obviously. What is the spring that sits behind the sling attachment for? I understand that its there. But why?
It's possible that if it's only a tiny piece that it will still work. It is the rear takedown detent spring. Basically that spring pushes on the detent which keeps the rear takedown pin from coming loose.
The turn just makes it easier to remove the spring right then rather than backing everything all the way out before getting it. The spring itself is the spring for the detent for the rear take down pin.
Did u change from mil spec to commercial???? And do u know if all lower AR receiver threading for bigger tube are compatible with standard, mil spec and commercial???
question, did you keep the detent pin inside and not take it out, or are you not using one? Just wondering because I plan to change my troy to a sba3 brace.
If it's been staked it will be much more difficult. Either take to gunsmith or if you're adventurous and willing to take the chance you can try to separate where they have been staked. But you may damage one or both pieces. A drimmel with thin grinding wheel. Be very careful!! Just hitting it may or may not work and may or may not damage it.
@@RustyGuns Thanks for the reply. Do you know the name of the spring or can you link me to it? I have to track it down and buy another one and then probably take it to someone to fix it for me. I should have never F'd with it
Outstanding !!!! When building an ar15 is it posible to start on your lower faith A2 buttstock before installing trigger group, pistol grip and safety?
You shouldn't have any problem I can't think of anything that would cause you any problems. The detent and spring are for the takedown pin. So I don't see any reason why it should cause you any problems to install it before the trigger assembly.
So quick question about that tiny spring you said not to lose I didn't realize there was a spring there did I lose it or do some stocks not have a spring there
They should all have a spring, it puts pressure on the detent for the rear takedown pin. It may not have come out, sometimes they don't. It was just a warning that sometimes they do fly out. If it did come out and you can't find it, any gun shop with a smithy will have one you can get. Or you can order one online.
@@RustyGuns Do you HAVE to have this spring? Is it okay to shoot without it? what purpose does it serve (in the most simplest quickest way of explanation)
I’m new to building ARs, I put my buffer tube on for my brace, but the buffer and brace seem to move and rotate a bit. There’s a little bit of slop I can’t seem to get rid of. Idk if the ambidextrous plate I used is allowing it move around a bit or what. I’m at a loss because this is my first solo build.
Next to check is that the castle nut is locked all the way down. If you have play just in the butt stock but not the buffer tube itself that is very typically of stocks that come with a lot of guns they're just basic ordinary stocks or if your using a mil spec tube but commercial stock. Hope some of this helps with your trouble.
Also if you just can't seem to get rid of the play in the stock or brace add some Teflon in between the tube and stock or brace. This will take up play but still allow it to slide easily.
The easiest way I found to seat the spring is to hold it down with the flat part of a razor blade and move the endplate counter-clockwise over it, press down and remove the razor blade.
That little spring has a detent pin that holds takedown pin in place. If you remove that little spring you better keep your eyes open for that pin, very small
You'll need to get a placement. It is the spring that holds in the detent for the rear takedown pin. Without it there is a possibility of the rear takedown pin working itself loose.
Yes that plate is what holds the small spring for the rear take down pin in place. So you either use the sling mount plate or the standard plate that has no loops for a sling.
I don't know that I've ever even seen anyone try it that way. Probably because you'll have to find a way to push the buffer pin down enough while tightening down tube.
I didn't look for a specific brand I just found one on amazon. They're pretty much all similar. Just check customer reviews on which ever one you're considering.
It would fire one round but without the buffer (which is what I think you ment) and spring, but it will fail to cycle properly. And will most likely cause damage to the weapon or the shooter. Now without the tube on it, the bolt will come flying out. So do not attempt either for any reason, it is a serious risk to injury or death.
Rusty Guns spanner wrenches can work but having the right one is key. Truthfully it’s just easier to go get the relatively inexpensive tool you used in the video.
Use the Magpul Armorer's wrench.magpul.com/magpularmorerswrench-ar15-m4.html?mp_global_color=118 Get the Botach KZ AR15/M4 Receiver Extension Buffer Tube Block, torque to 38 foot pounds. Grease the threads with Aero shell64 grease before screwing on the castle nut. www.amazon.com/Umbrella-Corporation-AeroShell-33MS-Grease/dp/B01GGQV34I/ref=asc_df_B01GGQV34I/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312561347023&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9794449608883193630&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9021356&hvtargid=pla-570719038791&psc=1 Then stake the castle nut. This is the proper way to assemble the receiver extension buffer tube.
How is it loose? As in comes free easily? Did you remember to put the spring back in. And the detent? If that came out also. And be sure spring wasn't bent or crushed.
Matt Petree they typically come off pretty easy but if needed you can use a small amount off oil, let it soak in for a minute or two, then just barely rock the nut back and forth then try to remove it fully
After watching numerous videos about this subject, you have the very best explanation that I have found. Thank you very much and a thumbs up to you brother.
Thank you sir, and thank you for watching and positive feedback
@@RustyGuns I'll echo that. The other videos that I watched were missing so much info, they were useless. Thanks.
Good detailed video. One thing worth mentioning is the 2 slots on the back of the castle nut against the sling plate is made for center punching the plate to allow expansion into the castle nut further locking it all together.
I'm not following you. I'll take a look.
The best, clearest video demonstration that I have found. From an AR novice thank you!
No problem, thanks for watching and the commenting!
This video was very helpful in replacing the sling mount. Did it in about 15 minutes, great for a novice fella like me. Thanks.
That's great to hear, that was the basic idea for the video. Thanks for watching and commenting
It only took me 3 hours, lost the little spring THREE times, along with the other spring and plunger. I found this video way too late, but it got me on track after my wife found all my parts in my garage.
I had no idea this would turn into a great afternoon.
Sorry it started off so badly for you but glad to hear that everything worked out. And glad that I was apart of it. Thanks so much for watching and sharing your story.
I just want to give you a shout-out for making such a detailed video. I was a bit apprehensive about doing this change out but this video helped me replace my buffer tube in about 10 minutes! Thanks again!
Awesome to hear. And pretty much the whole point of this channel. To be something for the average gun owner who can't spend thousands upon thousands on Guns or on special parts. Or to Send off for repairs or mods to a gunsmith. But actually be able to do it themselves. So congrats, and thanks for taking the time to comment..
Thanks for the excellent video. I just replaced my buffer tube & butt stock following your detailed instructions. However, I did have ONE small problem. Per your instructions, I noted the buffer retention spring/pin. And I also noted the small takedown pin spring between the buttstock collar tube lock and the lower receiver. However, while unscrewing the buffer tube slowly to prevent the small takedown pin spring from flying out, I completely forgot about the buffer retention spring & pin, and they flew out into my workshop! Mortified, I started moving all of my woodworking power tools around to find the proverbial needle in the haystack amongst the sawdust. Ugh! When I had all but given up hope and was ready to order the parts from Brownell's, I moved a small Home Depot plastic bag out of the way and the pin and spring fell out onto my router table!! The day was saved and my AR-15 now has a brand new buffer tube & butt stock!
Been there before :) thanks for watching.
I just did the same thing and it thankfully was stuck in my upper. I was like holy crap. Nice work good! Good info
Great video. Was able to add my ambi sling mount on with a cheap Chinese tool in about 15 minutes. Also added a mlok bipod, an optic and a flashlight in another 15. I freaking love the AR platform. It's so intuitive
That's great and yep it's the perfect Barbie for men 😂
The more i learn about it the more i luv it😍
You forgot to mention: when taking out the spring after loosening the castle nut, behind that spring is a little pin, be sure that doesn't fall out and get lost, that's what the spring sits on
True but the detent shouldn't fall out unless the gun is tilted. But yeah definitely should have reminded people thanks for commenting.
Yes... however, all that pin, and spring, does is put tension on the rear take-down pin. So, on my Leviathan Ragnarok, you don’t have to remove the pin, and spring. They are held in place with a set screw. I messed around with it for no reason... almost lost the spring in the garage. 🤦♂️
why do you think the spring was catching when he was trying to pull it out and put it back he forgot
EZ way to save the small spring under the plate is thread the hole with a 3/56 tap and put a set screw in the hole spring is permanently captured but easily removable if needed
Appreciate it man. I followed along and got it done with zero issues.
Good to hear, glad it was helpful and thanks for watching and the comment.
No nonsense video. Very well done thank you. Totally professional. 5 Start Video
Thank you sir, glad it was useful
Buffer tube change out because my AR used to be jersey legal. Thanks so much for the info!
Thank You! Concise and to the point with good angle views and clear instruction. Two thumbs up
Thanks sir, and thanks for watching and commenting
Now that is a straight-shootin' video. Got my sling mount installed easily thanks to you, brother. Thanks!
Thanks sir, and glad it helped. Thanks for watching and posting. 👊🏻
I never saw a place for that spring on my AR-10... I looked everywhere and found no place for a spring except to hold the buffer in,,, is it the same on a At-10???
On some AR 10 it maybe located underneath the pistol grip.
@@RustyGuns thanks
I wish i knew about that tool first before taking this apart....
Yeah you can find them usually at any gunshop, or online, there perfect for multiple jobs
What’s the name of the tool I can’t find it ?
@@Ginovannei armorers wrench I think
SAME
When moving from a milspec tube to a commercial one with the angled end, do you also have to change the stock to one that is made for commercial?
great video! California bolted the buttstock onto the buffer tube, so I had to go and get myself a brand mew buffer tube just to replace my buttstock...but now I need a stock lock....sometimes I feel like I hate California lol
Yeah many videos don't always apply to California guns. I would make some but then I'd have to buy them just to do it. Lol
Any tips for removing stacked castle nuts? Can't break mine for the life of me, and I got help from a lot of strong people.
Without actually seeing it and how's its staked. I would just blind guessing on how to do yours.
@@RustyGuns I went to a gunsmith, he put it in a vice, got a castle wrench about 4 feet long, and had two people bust it. It definitely wasn't an easy one for them!
I’m about ready to put some heat to mine😤🔥🤬to break it loose. Great video though!
YOU ROCK! I would have been so lost on my own especially not having that perfect tool.
1) what is that tool called & how much $ are they typically? Not covid prices. We are still getting screwed on everything, i hadn't spent 100% msrp in i think my entire life till recently.
I need to do this soon and definitely you already have helped me with o taining this knowledge.
It's quite easy but i can see how it's one of those things that the first time it's a nightmare,especially the tiny screws and that plunger thing.
It's typically just called an AR tool or wrench, cost around 20 bucks. Definitely worth buying if you plan on doing this or working on your barrel.
The vast majority of work on an AR is very simple just remember to take your time. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
May see them listed as an armorer’s wrench too.
@@RustyGuns thanks guys. I told my brother whos in the reserves and has tons of toys so he gave me an extra one. Man, i love to hear other people's thoughts as long as they align with mine,lol.
Only regarding guns. Im pretty left but the AOCs wanna make us powerless for when the day comes that we truly have to deal with a threat.
FUN FACT: NAZIS TRIED TO MANIPULATE MEXICO INTO INVADING THE SOUTHWEST.
MEXICO DENIED THE IDEA CAUSE THE BIGGEST THREAT WAS THAT EVERY AMERICAN HAD THEOR OWN RIFLES EXACTLY WHERE THEY WANTED TO INVADE (TO RECLAIM ALL TBE PLACES WE TOOK NOT LONG BEFORE, few 100 yrs)
Just knowing that an armed civillian area was enough to make an invasion far less appealing and that much more less likely to occur.
That in itself is proof enough we need to preserve our right to bear arms is it not?
I have the same type of armorer's wrench but I used the other castle nut tool (with the 3 tabs next to the one on the end that you used) for castle nut. It was easier for me but they both work. Thanks for the video. I was not sure how difficult it would be to get a staked castle nut off. It did take some elbow grease but I was able to do it without a vise.
Yeah staked ones are a bit more of a pain. And yep good point that sometimes what works for one person is not the same for another.
great video, very concise and step by step without dumbing down. do want to know though, what is the purpose of the 'hide-y' spring? the little one that you insert from the bottom against the sling mount plate?
as I had a several messages back n forth with the online sling seller, i do wish they had advised me about the castle nut tool. but i got it half way down and now after watching this a couple times i should be able to do it NP once my tool arrives ( i would NOT advise using a channel locks...ugh). thanks
It is the rear takedown pin spring that keeps pressure on a detent. Which prevents any chance of the rear takedown pin from working itself loose or coming out.
Thanks! Glad I didn't attempt that before I watched your video. Very helpful!
You're welcome!
What type of model/manufacturer AR wrench is that?
Hi. What is the brand of the ar tool you are using to remove buffer tube and replace sling mount? Thank you, I’m trying to buy one and want to make sure I get the right tool. Happy new year!
Thank you sooo much! Had a bit of trouble at first, almost lost the spring to the pin that you need to hold down, but thanks to you I got my sling attachment on. Great video!
Awesome glad to hear it helped, thanks for watching and the comment
What’s the advantage of a commercial vs mil spec buffer tube? I have an aero mil spec and palmetto mil spec on both my 16” rifles. What is the advantage of a commercial one?
I'm sure someone out there will say their is. But I've never seen one. Main reason may just if there is a particular butt stock you like maybe be set up for one.
Is there any difference in castle nuts? Like do I need a mil spec castle nut to instal a mil spec tube?
Great video! Made installation so much easier. I would have lost parts for sure if I hadn't watched it.
On my AR it looks like the end plate is staked into the castle nut gap. Is this common? Is there a need to do this? Any locktite needed in the threads?
Unfortunately staking is common but not necessary otherwise every one would be. But some companies understand people are going to do upgrades so they don't stake. Yes you can use a drop of lock tite if you feel the need. But I haven't and have had no issues. But my gun is not your gun so I can't say for certain that you should or shouldn't. Good question though, thanks.
Is it possible to add a slingmount on my SB Tactical BA-AK Stock Adapter ?
I just don't know if the threads are the same on the ak adapter n ar adapter or if it's even possible to remove the ak adapter n place it back on
off the top of my head, I would say no without doing some modification. Or without seeing the gun. But maybe someone else has tried and be of more help.
No torque wrench, no stake?
Thanks man, It IS simple, but it is also simpler when you know before what to expect. Greetz from Poland.
Welcome and thanks for watching and leaving a comment
My buffer tube has a notch that goes on either side of the pin to keep the buffer spring in. How do I remove it?
You should have to push the pin down and rotate buffer tube at same time until it backs off enough.
Really helpful! Thanks! Doing the change with my first AR and all went well!
👍👍👊
Best video on removing buffer tube!
How can you remove the buffer spring tube without the fancy ar wrench?
A lot
Of cursing. Just get the tool or a comparable spanner wrench. Otherwise you will
Likely damage the threads and ruin your tube.
For us learned people an springs great show men ship ! Nice work
Thank you for this video! I just bought a mod kit for my AR and I'm a newbie to accessories.
No problem, welcome aboard. And thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Enjoy the new goodies.
What does that little spring do that is behind the castle nut? Is that for the back pin detent?
It's to keep the rear takedown pin from vibrating loose or out.
Why it is hard to charge my m4 and it feels like it's scratches something when I pull it / charge it , and some times it won't get pull so I have to leave it and try to pull it again and it charged.
It could be the charging handle. Most do make a light scratching noise but you should be able to pull it back. I would try a different charging handle. Maybe borrow a friends and see if that is in fact the problem.
I didn't even know what a buffer tube was until today :-) Thanks for the lesson, although I'm curious why you replaced yours.
what iff you brake that little spring behind?
It needs to be replaced, the spring holds pressure on the detent for the rear takedown pin. Without it the takedown pin could come loose.
Nice. Used it to remove old tube and install SBTactical SB3. Thanks.
Np, thanks for watching hope you enjoy the new part
Do you stake the castle nut or not a thing?
You can but mine wasn't staked at the factory, and I have never had an issue. If you're a little worried about it backing off, you can use a little thread tape or a drop of locktite. Staking it just makes for more hassle if you need to remove it.
I have a small gap between the upper and lower in that area. I read the castle nut and buffer tube can be adjusted to eliminate this gap. Is that true? If so, how do I do that?
If it's along the entire thing it can't. However don't worry most milspec do not fit completely tight. The buffer and castle are on the lower and turn inward on the lower so I'm not sure how that can in anyway tighten the gap between the two. But again most milspec AR'S have that little bit of movement between the two.
If I go from commercail to Mil Spec buffer tubes do I have to change any other parts (other than the stock).
I have a nice stock with a rubber pad I would like to use but it wont fit my commercial buffer tube.
You may need to change the buffer and spring as well. If the length of tube is different.
should we stake the castle nut in place? or is that not really necessary?
Mine isn't staked, and haven't had an issue, you could always use a drop on lock tight if you feel the need.
@@RustyGuns thanks! I was looking at all my different rifles that I bought fully assembled and all but one of them were staked. the FX-9 I recently bought was not staked. my Springfield saint victor was and I just used a little cheap castle nut wrench to undo that staked castle nut it really didnt take much force. I guess it doesn't really matter. ill just make sure it's nice and tight on these ARs im building
I know its a 5yo video. Im still learning obviously. What is the spring that sits behind the sling attachment for? I understand that its there. But why?
Mine does not have a buffer spring. It threads from the back of the buffer. Why the difference.
what happens if you accidentally break a piece of that small spring and what is the name of that spring? thanks
It's possible that if it's only a tiny piece that it will still work. It is the rear takedown detent spring. Basically that spring pushes on the detent which keeps the rear takedown pin from coming loose.
@@RustyGuns got it! 👍 thanks for the reply
@@RustyGuns do you absolutely NEED that little spring in the back? I’m having trouble putting it in and keeping it straight while I do the castle nut
Thanks! I followed your instructions & it worked out perfectly.
Glad it helped, yeah it's easy peasy..thanks for watching and taking the time to comment
Thank you for making this good video, helped out big time brother!
Very welcome sir
What does that little spring do when you give a 90 degree trun
The turn just makes it easier to remove the spring right then rather than backing everything all the way out before getting it. The spring itself is the spring for the detent for the rear take down pin.
Will be doing this next week, many thanks for this video! Cheers!
Did u change from mil spec to commercial???? And do u know if all lower AR receiver threading for bigger tube are compatible with standard, mil spec and commercial???
I switch back and forth, mine is a mil spec lower, however some companies may have their own designs and are not interchangeable.
What are you using to mount/hold your gun
Oh it's a block that you put into a vice the other end then fits in the magwell. They're inexpensive but very handy.
I had never thought about showing those type of vice blocks. But I will take care of that tomorrow!
@@RustyGuns thanks so much I just got my gun bench and old work bench from work and using as a gun smith/reloading table
Thank you so much, sir! Easy to follow and see.
Very welcome
question, did you keep the detent pin inside and not take it out, or are you not using one? Just wondering because I plan to change my troy to a sba3 brace.
Yes I just leave it in when doing this, there's no reason to remove it in order to change out the stock or buffer tube.
If you have a commercial buffer tube can it be replaced with a mil spec buffer tube?
Yes.
Sir well done what brand is the plate you installed, better than asap. And brand of your wrench?
I will check for you when I get home, can't remember if it's marked on them or not, if not I'll see if the receipt is lying around.
@@RustyGuns I found the plate on web, would like to know wrench if poss thanks
Yes I installed asap and did not like it interferes with wrench buggered up castle nut. Am changing it out.
Can I use a normal wrench 🤔
Would not recommend
Is the process the same if the castle nut is staked? All my AR’s are staked, but not sure how to undo it, just hit it back in place?
If it's been staked it will be much more difficult. Either take to gunsmith or if you're adventurous and willing to take the chance you can try to separate where they have been staked. But you may damage one or both pieces. A drimmel with thin grinding wheel. Be very careful!! Just hitting it may or may not work and may or may not damage it.
do you need the tiny spring??????
i just lost mine
Yes, it puts pressure on the detent for the rear takedown pin.
@@RustyGuns Thanks for the reply.
Do you know the name of the spring or can you link me to it? I have to track it down and buy another one and then probably take it to someone to fix it for me. I should have never F'd with it
@@RustyGuns Is it a ''Buffer Retainer Spring'' or a 'Takedown / Pivot Pin Detent Spring'
Excellent video! One of my go toes! Thanks again!!!
Thanks! Simply perfect - done in 5 mins!
Glad to help, thanks for watching and posting 👍👍
Outstanding !!!! When building an ar15 is it posible to start on your lower faith A2 buttstock before installing trigger group, pistol grip and safety?
You shouldn't have any problem I can't think of anything that would cause you any problems. The detent and spring are for the takedown pin. So I don't see any reason why it should cause you any problems to install it before the trigger assembly.
Rusty Guns - Thank you for the quick reply!! Keep up the great work!!
So quick question about that tiny spring you said not to lose I didn't realize there was a spring there did I lose it or do some stocks not have a spring there
They should all have a spring, it puts pressure on the detent for the rear takedown pin. It may not have come out, sometimes they don't. It was just a warning that sometimes they do fly out. If it did come out and you can't find it, any gun shop with a smithy will have one you can get. Or you can order one online.
@@RustyGuns Do you HAVE to have this spring?
Is it okay to shoot without it?
what purpose does it serve (in the most simplest quickest way of explanation)
I’m new to building ARs, I put my buffer tube on for my brace, but the buffer and brace seem to move and rotate a bit. There’s a little bit of slop I can’t seem to get rid of. Idk if the ambidextrous plate I used is allowing it move around a bit or what. I’m at a loss because this is my first solo build.
Check that the ambi plate is on correctly. The the indention fits into the back of the receiver, if it's on backwards that maybe the problem.
Next to check is that the castle nut is locked all the way down. If you have play just in the butt stock but not the buffer tube itself that is very typically of stocks that come with a lot of guns they're just basic ordinary stocks or if your using a mil spec tube but commercial stock. Hope some of this helps with your trouble.
Also if you just can't seem to get rid of the play in the stock or brace add some Teflon in between the tube and stock or brace. This will take up play but still allow it to slide easily.
The easiest way I found to seat the spring is to hold it down with the flat part of a razor blade and move the endplate counter-clockwise over it, press down and remove the razor blade.
Was this just a buffer tube replacement or was this standard to a mil spec buffer tube?
The tube on this one is miles spec,
You sir. Are a life saver.
Thanks, much appreciated
That little spring has a detent pin that holds takedown pin in place. If you remove that little spring you better keep your eyes open for that pin, very small
I heard this pin hit the wall across the room, found it with a magnet. LUCKY
3:29 what is that spring called? I found mine damaged.
I need to find out as well but looks like he either doesn't know or he doesn't read the comments
Can you shoot an ar without the buffer tube? Basically convert it into a pistol ?
It would fire one shot, the bolt would slam to the rear and the gun would be useless.
what happens if you lose that srping??
You'll need to get a placement. It is the spring that holds in the detent for the rear takedown pin. Without it there is a possibility of the rear takedown pin working itself loose.
Very details! Well done!! 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
Thanks, and thank you for watching and commenting
Do you have to re attach the sling mount?
Yes that plate is what holds the small spring for the rear take down pin in place. So you either use the sling mount plate or the standard plate that has no loops for a sling.
Is it called a standard rear end plate
97,514 subscribers away from shooting a RUclips play button, so make sure to subscribe!!
Do you have to remove the upper in order to change the buffer tube?
I don't know that I've ever even seen anyone try it that way. Probably because you'll have to find a way to push the buffer pin down enough while tightening down tube.
Yes
Thanks for this video...clear and to the point
How else can u take it off without the tool?
Buy the Armorer's Tool, make sure it's made in the USA
what kind of AR tool do you use, and where can you order it from?
I didn't look for a specific brand I just found one on amazon. They're pretty much all similar. Just check customer reviews on which ever one you're considering.
@@RustyGuns thank you. I found one on amazon, any recommendations on an adjustable or collapsible stock?
Wish I would have watched this before shit flew all over the room....
don't worry. I watched this before hand and still lost that little f**king spring lol
@@SkinnySkinch where can you buy another one cuz this just happened to me
@@uclkthe1st100 check your local gun store i bent mine when i put it back and had to buy another one.
old time wisdom... if all else fails, read the directions... ;-p
Same here man 😭😭😭
Thanks brother, great DIY video.
Thanks, helped me out big-time!!!
Glad to hear it, and thanks for taking the time to comment.
Thanks, perfect and to the point.
Excellent video - very well done !!!
Still relevant in 2020, had to use a rubber mallet though
Will my AR shoot if I took out the whole buffer tube ??
It would fire one round but without the buffer (which is what I think you ment) and spring, but it will fail to cycle properly. And will most likely cause damage to the weapon or the shooter. Now without the tube on it, the bolt will come flying out. So do not attempt either for any reason, it is a serious risk to injury or death.
Thank you, great example.
Hey man. Cool vid. Just wanna ask what's the name of the tool? And is there any alternative common tool i can use and not damage anything?
It's just commonly called an ar15 tool, and no common tool I can think of off the top of my head that you could use.
Rusty Guns spanner wrenches can work but having the right one is key. Truthfully it’s just easier to go get the relatively inexpensive tool you used in the video.
Use the Magpul Armorer's wrench.magpul.com/magpularmorerswrench-ar15-m4.html?mp_global_color=118 Get the Botach KZ AR15/M4 Receiver Extension Buffer Tube Block, torque to 38 foot pounds. Grease the threads with Aero shell64 grease before screwing on the castle nut. www.amazon.com/Umbrella-Corporation-AeroShell-33MS-Grease/dp/B01GGQV34I/ref=asc_df_B01GGQV34I/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312561347023&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9794449608883193630&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9021356&hvtargid=pla-570719038791&psc=1 Then stake the castle nut. This is the proper way to assemble the receiver extension buffer tube.
EXCELLENT VIDEO SIR! THANK YOU!
No problem thank you for watching!
That was very helpful. Thank you!
Np, thank you for watching and commenting
I did it... but now the rear take down pin is super super loose...
How is it loose? As in comes free easily? Did you remember to put the spring back in. And the detent? If that came out also. And be sure spring wasn't bent or crushed.
What is that tool
Part
Armorer's Tool, make sure it's American made, the chinese made ones suck.
Thank you, very helpful!
Very welcome sir
Any suggestions on trying to remove a castle but that does NOT want to come off? First time trying....
Matt Petree they typically come off pretty easy but if needed you can use a small amount off oil, let it soak in for a minute or two, then just barely rock the nut back and forth then try to remove it fully
what happens if you lose that spring????