hey man just wanted to thank you for making getting into 3d printing a breeze.. followed everything you listed and made my life that much easier.. saved me hours of research. thanks once again
came back here after ...6 months of printing with my first printer and just wanted to thank you for helping me in this business when i didn't know a lot about this, that was 6 months ago :)
I wanted to post a comment and say THANK YOU!!! I got my Select Mini in yesterday..bought it on a whim and I'm diving into 3D Printing completely blind. I made my first test print last night and it was pretty good! (the cat included with the select mini). But already this is looking like it will help me immensely in making better prints. Thank you so much.
I am a true first time 3D printer. You lost me right after you opened the box and plugged it in. I'm sitting here thinking about boxing it up and sending it back. I don't mind learning how to design and that end of the hobby but I have no idea what you did with all those updates. If it is not in the manual then for a newbie like me that should be it. I'm going to read the manual tonight and see what it says there. I'm sure your expertise is really appreciated by people that know what you were talking about. Thanks.
I'm sure you get this a lot but, thank you so much for your video, man. I, like many of the folks you made this for, can't thank you enough for making getting into 3D printing so much easier than it actually is. Keep up the great work, Tyler!
I too got off easy on the upgrades, worked the 1st time without a hitch. I can't wait to see how this improves the quality since it worked great right out of the box.
Quick note: PID stands for proportional, integral, derivative, not power, impedance, derivative as written in the blog post. PID values are the gains on the proportional, integral, and derivative error values used to calculate a response to the given error in the system.
If you're using a raft you can adjust the settings to have a much smaller footprint. I usually set it to 5-8 mm. To find the settings you have to go into the file menu, preferences, settings, and you can add a checkbox next to "Build plate adhesion => Raft Extra Margin". Then you'll have the option to change the raft size. I also like to set the Raft top layers to 3. It's a little overkill, but if you're having a problem part, that'll usually solve your woes.
Thanks for the videos. I found them very useful to get up and running for the first time. One small problem with the end code is that if you are printing a large model if the X or Y are close to the end of travel, they can hit the end stop, but the steppers will keep turning. I modified my code to raise Z by 3mm, then home X and Y so that I am not destroying my belts. Thanks again for the great videos!
This is great and truly appreciated. I am hoping this is the solution to a rather odd issue I just began to encounter on a lightly used MP select mini V2 I was gifted a month ago. This is my first 3D printer so please be gentle. lol 2 days ago while printing with Duramic PLA+ @220° about 20 minutes into the print there was a slight smell of burning plastic. I got up to check and while standing there looking at it I saw a small wisp of smoke coming from the hotend. I looked at the temps and they had hit 330°. I quickly shut it off and let it cool. After about 10 min I turned it back on and ran a preheat check and all LOOKED good (except for the PTFE in the hot break - that was cooked and subsequently replaced) but while I had the nozzle temp set to 190° it began running up to 250 and by the time I managed to shut down the preheat it had spiked to 270 even though it was still set to 190. Bed temps never did anything like this though. I'd already run through over 2kg of hatchbox PLA with zero issues and the only thing I had changed, other than the filament, was the temps as per Duramic specs. My nozzle is pretty cooked now so still waiting on new ones to arrive but I am baffled as to what could cause this. I've checked, and rechecked, the thermistor and it measures out the same as multiple other 100K thermistor temp probes I have, and when I put it in place of the temp probe on one of my multimeters it outputs the same (and accurate) temp so I'm not sure the thermistor is the culprit here. If not then I have to suspect board or firmware issues. But how this could just happen out of the blue if it is a firmware issue is beyond me. Any thoughts, insights or suggestions are highly welcomed (and encouraged). If I can't figure this out I guess I'll just have to invest in something bigger. What a shame.😁
I've been having problems with my fan shutting off and the nozzle clogging. re-loaded the software and followed these instructions: problem solved. Thank you.
FYI: To get "build plate temperature" property to show up in the custom Materials settings in Cura 2.5, the custom printer setup for M200 (named in video) needs to have "heated bed" checked. I missed it when updating the start and end gcodes.
+Life and Times of Tyler Do you know if these settings work with the newer MP Select Mini 3D Printer V2??? I just got mine and want to get the best start. I've got a couple of days because my filament isn't in yet :-( I'm really enjoying your series. I'm learning a ton! Thanks!!!
Hi Tyler is there another way to connect besides the USB port which is broken, I took the panel off to look at the internal usb and it is lifted up from the board, this is a used printer and lesson learned from buying a used machine, even though it was a really cheap buy. Could I replace the usb on the board or would that be a simple fix or complicated….looks like the internal usb is connected by small pins and soldiered to the board. Previous owner must have pulled the usb cord out the wrong way damaging the internal port from the board…just guessing. Any info would be great.
Hey, awesome tutorial. I couldn't have gotten here without you. Do you plan to make a tutorial on using Octopi/rint? I was able to get it set up but now it's no longer working and I'm a bit baffled.
Tyler.. My Monoprice v2 is working for the most part , pretty well right out of the box...however... When I press print the print is starting way over to the most extreme right side.. I'm using Cura..newest version and the object looks like it's centered on the build plane..when I save the file...The object I'm printing is a simple circle of about 79 mm..so..there no issue with trying to print something larger than the Mono's build plate area. Any clues as to why it's doing this..or if I can correct it?
Hi Tyler I just received my Monoprice Select Mini and have not printed with it yet. I still need to calibrate the bed. I am also going to use Cura. I noticed in teh custom settings, you left the Printhead Setting as defaults on the right hand side. Is that correct? Thanks for the video and info.
Hey Tyler! Thanks for the video. I'd like to know, is it normal that after changing the PIDs, when I ask for 205 I only get up to 202? There is always a 3 degree difference that I didn't had before. My Hot end PID were: M301 P20.00 I0.02 D250.00 C100.00 L20
That definitely shouldn't be the case. Make sure the part cooling fan isn't too high up and hitting the nozzle itself. Also double check with M503 that your PID settings are actually saved as M301 P36.00 I0.012 D72.00 C0.12 L2
Please could you explain the bit in your description about the layer height needing to be a multiple of 0.04375.. I really need to tune my prints to fit precisely and would like to understand this. What would be amazing is if you could actually share an optimised Cura profile for this kind of precision. Thanks again.
Check my blog link in the video description www.thetylergibson.com/monoprice-select-mini-part-3-tuning-and-slicing/ it has exactly what you're asking for :)
at the end of print I like to move Y to 120 because that moves the print bed forward so you can grab the print easily. otherwise it moves it back and I have to move the bed forward to get to the print easier.
Hi I followed your instructions and when I went to print the glass spacer, i am finding that the extruder seems to be to far off of the print bed for for the PLA to stick to the bed properly. Any help would be appreciated. Love your videos!
Tyler, will the start and end Gcode that you have work for my monoprice maker select plus? I used it for my mini and it was awesome!. I just dont want to break my maker plus. Thank you!
Hi, I don't understand the purpose of G28 -your comment says "move XY to min end stops" -when I looked it up it says G28 is "Move to reference point" So why use this instead of just use G1?
Booguloo Furstaverg G28 is the command to home the axes, setting their zero points. You need to set G28 to ensure that moves like G1 X0 actually move to the real x home
Learnt so much from these videos - much appreciated. Can you provide advice on filament retraction settings in Cura. I get marks across the finished surface with PLA+ as the extruder jumps across the surface filling in holes. I have no retraction values set.
+Dunk O the default retraction works decently, more recently I've been playing with lower retraction values (Cura defaults to 6mm I believe, I'm currently using 3.5mm), but haven't seen much of a difference. Finished surface marks is common on all 3D printers :)
I don't think Cura on the Mac was retracting at all for me and I getting a lot of stringing when Printing a cluster of small parts with ensuing PLA+. Activated the retraction setting and used 3mm/40mm per sec. fixed!
Quick Question: After following these instructions as well as the ones to configure cura, my printer is trying to print out of bounds. It seems like it does no longer know where the center point is. I double checked my bet and its configured at 120x120x120. Seems like it's of to the bottom left. The stepper makes a rattling noise. Any idea?
When this happens to me I turn my printer off, then gently push the print head all the way to the left, and the bed all the way to the back. Then when I turn it back on the printer is already at "Home" (0,0). ;)
I updated my settings in Pronterface as you directed and when I got to the point of disconnecting and reconnecting I am now getting this error. [ERROR] Could not connect to COM3 at baudrate 115200: Serial error: could not open port COM3: [Error 2] The system cannot find the file specified. What gives?
You may need to try the other available COM ports. That error is almost always because you have other serial devices installed. My Mini's usually mount as COM3 or COM5, but they've also been COM2/4 before. Cycle through connecting to each COM port listed until it connects :)
After making the pronterface console changes, my lcd reads 180 degrees and never rises above. i actually had some filament start smoking because the hot end was attempting to continue heating (though I'm positive it was well above the listed 180) Ever heard of this? What did I do wrong? Can I reset it to the factory settings?
These tutorials have been a real help - thanks. I have used your start and end G-codes but for all prints i find that the fan stays on for more than 5 minutes (code double checked). I am using motion firmware V29.39. Any ideas? Thanks
does the printer has a reset button. I just got one, my heater cartridge was broken, install a new one and replace the heat sensor. it all worked, but the temperature is increasing even though the temperature that heat the extruder is off. how do I resolve the issue.
+One Sock it looks like the site is just temporarily down, but that is still the official binaries site for pronterface. It should be back online shortly :)
I realized that you were only using it for sending gcode, which I was able to do with repetier host. Following a lot of your tips, I was able to get my bed up to 85c (used corrugated cardboard instead of cork/foam) and had a near perfect abs print (gluestick on 3M painter's tape). Now I've moved onto crazy hacks, like installing an e3d hot end and upgrade my fans.
When I try to check the layers in cura like you did around 12:30, all i get is either the model all in yellow, or a multicolored mess. It doesn't show the individual layers no matter how high i set the slider. Any suggestions?
hello, I am having trouble when it comes to printing out files from thingiverse. When I print them out, they never seem to print correctly. Could you give me some possible solutions to fix this problem.
Definitely join the facebook group - make a post with photos of your print, and post with a screenshot of the settings you're using in Cura. That will help us help you to troubleshoot :) facebook.com/groups/1717306548519045/
When my M200 prints with XYZ PLA onto the original masking tape bed I am not getting proper bed adhesion. When it starts printing a circular brim, from the outside in, the filament keeps taking straight-line shortcuts instead of printing the circle as it should. It's very frustrating. I have tried all your settings and scripts and have tried temperatures on the bed of up to 60 degrees and 200 degrees for the nozzle hoping it would stick. I have spent three days and have done about 15 failed prints and none successful so far. I even tried that dodgy trick of wiping the bed with a glue stick.. not my preferred option. Also, this starting script seems to produce a lot of dags that screw up the first part of the print as the machine drags the tangled plastic around the bed. What should I set retraction distance to?
This is a frustrating, but simple solution fortunately. If your brim isnt going down smoothly, your bed is too far away from the nozzle. Re-level the bed using your paper and make the distance just a bit smaller so you can feel more drag on the paper. You'll pretty much always want to watch the beginning of every print to wipe away any boogers of filament that may get laid down initially. It's important to purge before starting a print, and with a low-end printer like the mini, just a reality that you need to manually pull those out of the way so they don't cause collisions later.
PLEASE HELP!!! So, i load a model into Cura(set-up per manual suggestion) from Thingaverse. A whistle. Simple. i save gcode to a folder then copy that file onto the sd card that came with the printer Note: if a file name uses an underscore___ it will not save or write the file to the sd card for some reason. Okay, so then i put the card into the printer with a correct file name (whistle) and hit print. Nothing happens except.... the blue time line starts to go. And its goes until the end and hangs up. I can not cancel, I can not pause and i can not print. Now, the "Cat.gcode" file that comes on the sd card with the printer prints just fine. Cura does not seem to work with this machine for me now. I forgot to mention, i worked the first few times UNTIL i tried to set up the WiFi which was a fail. I can't even get the usb to work... Please help.
Thanks for getting my select mini working! When the nozzle travels from one side of the print to the other it scrapes just a little. Is there a way for it to go up a little more before traveling?
This confused me as well. According to the below page they changed version number format. v15.04.6 was the last of the xx.xx.x format where they then switched to using 2.x.x format. As of this comment, v2.4 is the latest. ultimaker.com/en/products/cura-software/list
I am upgrading from the v1 to the maker select v2. Will the starting and ending g codes work for the new printer or is there a website I can get the codes from? thanks
Not sure if this has been mentioned in a previous comment. Pronterface won't recognise the USB connection on a Mac. You need to download and install the FTDI?? chip drivers from here; www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm
Hi, I understand setting the wall thickness to 1.2 to get better strength and surface finish, but why do you leave the top/bottom thickness at 0.8? Wouldn't this also be better at 1.2?
+gektron wall thickness needs to be thicker to prevent the infill pattern from being visible on the outer shell. Also, the part will be the weakest in the vertical axis compared to XY, so the additional thickness provides a bit more comparative strength. But! It never hurts to have the top and bottom thicker!
Just another question if you don't mind. I'm using a 0.175 mm layer height for the MP Select Mini. Should the top/bottom thickness actually be a multiple of this? For example 0.875 mm (5 layers) or does it not really matter? I ask this because we hear that wall thickness should be a multiple of nozzle width.
+gektron top and bottom doesn't need to be a direct multiple because the slicer will always round it to a layer height. This rarely matters in zheights but has big fit issues in XY for thin walled parts. It would only matter for Z when the interior height of a part needs to be mechanically precise.
now I know why my printer freezes up at the end of the print and it wont home and steppers still activated, I think (wont know until I make changes) look at the end code, on the video and the description m84 steppers off is missing in the description it just says disable motor and just noticed my filament totally retracted out of the tube too , once the print finished guess I need to check that too
Yep. It's not "freezing up" The command G4 P300000 ; wait 5 minutes before turning off the fan Will sleep everything for 5 minutes to give time for the hotend to cool before turning the fan off. During this time you will only be able to make movements from the control panel (no USB). Feel free to remove this line and you'll see the blocking go away. If your filament is backing completely out of the tube, you'd mistyped something somewhere. The below command backs out the filament by 5mm (E-5 means extruder minus 5mm) G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F9000 ;move z up a bit and retract filament even more I use this on two different Mini's with two different firmware revs and have never seen either of them back out the filament more than the 6mm total specified in the ending gcode. Hope that helps!
ok thanks, im going to modify or remove that command I think the filament coming out was my attempt of moving the z axis up on the control panel, and when pressed in the button it moved to extruder. Because that has never happened again and I've modded the button taller now and much easier to control
Someone, please help! I got filament stuck in the nozzle and have looked up methods such as the "atomic method" and can not for the life of me get the filament out of the nozzle no matter what I do, anyone have any suggestions? I only got this printer a week or so ago and printed 1 thing.
Chances are you'll have to disassemble the hotend. I've not messed with bowden extruders, but on a direct drive you can disassemble the coldend and then use something small like an Allen wrench to push any filament that is stuck through the nozzle (while it's hot, of course.) I imagine this would work on a bowden setup as well.
No, I don't use it connected at all. I use the SD card in a card reader, save to SD and then put it in the printer. To open an STL in Cura, you go to File->Open
+Max q8 even with new ones you will need to tune the PID values for the hotend. However, you will probably not need to update the firmware itself as long as the number shown on startup is 22.39 or higher
If you're going to be away from your print job when it finishes you do NOT want it to return to home after finishing since your print will still be on the bed and it could damage your print or printer.
It's okay to return it to XY home, as it lifts up the Z a bit first. You're correct though if your print is using close to the maximum z-height of the printer, might be best not to have it home XY just in case
Oh OK well, I did use the one in the video but when I got ready to print parts of the print would mess up and a few times the screen on the printer would freeze and sometime get glichy.
Thanks for your video series, they've helped me a lot in getting started with 3D printing. I bought this printer under the Malyan M200 name because I'm in the UK. I followed your firmware and temperature gcode setup instructions and have managed to print some stuff fairly successfully, however... Whenever I try to print any kind of gear, it really messes it up. I'm trying this model : www.thingiverse.com/thing:30615; sliced in Cura. I'm starting to think it might have something to do with the filament retraction. I used the Cura settings described on the manufacturer site : wiki.malyansys.com/doku.php?id=cura_setting_for_m200. Any ideas why it always seems to mess up the first layer of gear teeth?
Use the settings I provide in the video and on my blog www.thetylergibson.com/monoprice-select-mini-part-3-tuning-and-slicing/ you will get better results than the stock settings from Malyan. Usually if you're getting bad prints from the start, especially the first layer, its almost 100% caused by not having the bed properly leveled.
If you are using the default .4mm nozzle, then yep! And yep, exactly right with the z multiples as well. For tolerances between parts, .2-.3mm "gap" will usually results in a very, very tight fit in reality.
That's what this video is guiding you through. Are you having specific problems? Might be faster to join the MP Select Mini facebook group and ask there too :) facebook.com/groups/1717306548519045/
To reliably print ABS, adding cork insulation so you can get the bed temp to 85C, and adding some sort of build surface beyond painters/masking tape is a really really good idea. If you want to use a glass bed, yes you will need to print or otherwise craft a space. If you want to use a BuildTak or PEI sheet, or Kapton tape you may not need a spacer at all.
When I go to preheat, the extruder temperature just displays "N/A" and the platform "999°", I can set the target temperature but neither will actually begin to heat. Anybody know of a solution?
You've unfortunately got a broken/snapped/shorted thermistor. You can RMA the printer for a replacement, or checkout the facebook group for help on how to replace it yourself if you're feeling curious :)
What firmware revision are you running? Check out the MP Mini facebook group, we have a great community there that can help you out a lot more quickly than I will be able to :)
hey man just wanted to thank you for making getting into 3d printing a breeze.. followed everything you listed and made my life that much easier.. saved me hours of research. thanks once again
came back here after ...6 months of printing with my first printer and just wanted to thank you for helping me in this business when i didn't know a lot about this, that was 6 months ago :)
I wanted to post a comment and say THANK YOU!!! I got my Select Mini in yesterday..bought it on a whim and I'm diving into 3D Printing completely blind. I made my first test print last night and it was pretty good! (the cat included with the select mini). But already this is looking like it will help me immensely in making better prints. Thank you so much.
I am a true first time 3D printer. You lost me right after you opened the box and plugged it in. I'm sitting here thinking about boxing it up and sending it back. I don't mind learning how to design and that end of the hobby but I have no idea what you did with all those updates. If it is not in the manual then for a newbie like me that should be it. I'm going to read the manual tonight and see what it says there. I'm sure your expertise is really appreciated by people that know what you were talking about. Thanks.
I'm sure you get this a lot but, thank you so much for your video, man. I, like many of the folks you made this for, can't thank you enough for making getting into 3D printing so much easier than it actually is. Keep up the great work, Tyler!
Just got my Mini on Friday and ive been loving your videos. Thanks for putting these together.!
I too got off easy on the upgrades, worked the 1st time without a hitch. I can't wait to see how this improves the quality since it worked great right out of the box.
Outstanding, I couldn't get certain prints to come out the right way - This helped out BIG TIME. THANKS!!!
Quick note: PID stands for proportional, integral, derivative, not power, impedance, derivative as written in the blog post. PID values are the gains on the proportional, integral, and derivative error values used to calculate a response to the given error in the system.
Well I'll be! Thank you so much for this. I'll update my blog :) Learn something new every day!
No prob Tyler! Great videos by the way, I've been using them to tweak my own MP Select Mini :)
If you're using a raft you can adjust the settings to have a much smaller footprint. I usually set it to 5-8 mm. To find the settings you have to go into the file menu, preferences, settings, and you can add a checkbox next to "Build plate adhesion => Raft Extra Margin". Then you'll have the option to change the raft size. I also like to set the Raft top layers to 3. It's a little overkill, but if you're having a problem part, that'll usually solve your woes.
Thanks for the videos. I found them very useful to get up and running for the first time. One small problem with the end code is that if you are printing a large model if the X or Y are close to the end of travel, they can hit the end stop, but the steppers will keep turning. I modified my code to raise Z by 3mm, then home X and Y so that I am not destroying my belts. Thanks again for the great videos!
This is great and truly appreciated. I am hoping this is the solution to a rather odd issue I just began to encounter on a lightly used MP select mini V2 I was gifted a month ago. This is my first 3D printer so please be gentle. lol
2 days ago while printing with Duramic PLA+ @220° about 20 minutes into the print there was a slight smell of burning plastic. I got up to check and while standing there looking at it I saw a small wisp of smoke coming from the hotend. I looked at the temps and they had hit 330°. I quickly shut it off and let it cool. After about 10 min I turned it back on and ran a preheat check and all LOOKED good (except for the PTFE in the hot break - that was cooked and subsequently replaced) but while I had the nozzle temp set to 190° it began running up to 250 and by the time I managed to shut down the preheat it had spiked to 270 even though it was still set to 190. Bed temps never did anything like this though. I'd already run through over 2kg of hatchbox PLA with zero issues and the only thing I had changed, other than the filament, was the temps as per Duramic specs. My nozzle is pretty cooked now so still waiting on new ones to arrive but I am baffled as to what could cause this. I've checked, and rechecked, the thermistor and it measures out the same as multiple other 100K thermistor temp probes I have, and when I put it in place of the temp probe on one of my multimeters it outputs the same (and accurate) temp so I'm not sure the thermistor is the culprit here. If not then I have to suspect board or firmware issues. But how this could just happen out of the blue if it is a firmware issue is beyond me. Any thoughts, insights or suggestions are highly welcomed (and encouraged). If I can't figure this out I guess I'll just have to invest in something bigger. What a shame.😁
I've been having problems with my fan shutting off and the nozzle clogging. re-loaded the software and followed these instructions: problem solved. Thank you.
Thanks man best tutorial I've used so far the video stopped my frustration
+VantaBlack thanks!
Thank you so much for providing these videos and. Really appreciate what you're doing :-)
FYI:
To get "build plate temperature" property to show up in the custom Materials settings in Cura 2.5, the custom printer setup for M200 (named in video) needs to have "heated bed" checked. I missed it when updating the start and end gcodes.
+Life and Times of Tyler Do you know if these settings work with the newer MP Select Mini 3D Printer V2??? I just got mine and want to get the best start. I've got a couple of days because my filament isn't in yet :-(
I'm really enjoying your series. I'm learning a ton! Thanks!!!
Hi Tyler is there another way to connect besides the USB port which is broken, I took the panel off to look at the internal usb and it is lifted up from the board, this is a used printer and lesson learned from buying a used machine, even though it was a really cheap buy. Could I replace the usb on the board or would that be a simple fix or complicated….looks like the internal usb is connected by small pins and soldiered to the board. Previous owner must have pulled the usb cord out the wrong way damaging the internal port from the board…just guessing. Any info would be great.
Hey, awesome tutorial. I couldn't have gotten here without you. Do you plan to make a tutorial on using Octopi/rint? I was able to get it set up but now it's no longer working and I'm a bit baffled.
Tyler.. My Monoprice v2 is working for the most part , pretty well right out of the box...however... When I press print the print is starting way over to the most extreme right side.. I'm using Cura..newest version and the object looks like it's centered on the build plane..when I save the file...The object I'm printing is a simple circle of about 79 mm..so..there no issue with trying to print something larger than the Mono's build plate area. Any clues as to why it's doing this..or if I can correct it?
Hi Tyler
I just received my Monoprice Select Mini and have not printed with it yet. I still need to calibrate the bed.
I am also going to use Cura.
I noticed in teh custom settings, you left the Printhead Setting as defaults on the right hand side.
Is that correct?
Thanks for the video and info.
+valveman12 yep correct, printhead settings aren't used for the select mini, I believe they are for dual extruders.
Life and Times of Tyler Thanks Tyler
BTW: Great videos. I have learned a lot about the Monoprice Select Mini from you so a big thank you.
Hey Tyler! Thanks for the video. I'd like to know, is it normal that after changing the PIDs, when I ask for 205 I only get up to 202? There is always a 3 degree difference that I didn't had before. My Hot end PID were: M301 P20.00 I0.02 D250.00 C100.00 L20
That definitely shouldn't be the case. Make sure the part cooling fan isn't too high up and hitting the nozzle itself. Also double check with M503 that your PID settings are actually saved as M301 P36.00 I0.012 D72.00 C0.12 L2
Please could you explain the bit in your description about the layer height needing to be a multiple of 0.04375.. I really need to tune my prints to fit precisely and would like to understand this. What would be amazing is if you could actually share an optimised Cura profile for this kind of precision. Thanks again.
Check my blog link in the video description www.thetylergibson.com/monoprice-select-mini-part-3-tuning-and-slicing/ it has exactly what you're asking for :)
thanks, I tried that link earlier but it's a 404 "not found" link.
Ah! Thanks for letting me know. I just transferred hosting and it broke in the middle. Site is back up now :)
My fav video for the obvious reason :D
great work. im about to buy a v2 select mini. will the tuning you used in this video be the same for the v2?
at the end of print I like to move Y to 120 because that moves the print bed forward so you can grab the print easily. otherwise it moves it back and I have to move the bed forward to get to the print easier.
Hi I followed your instructions and when I went to print the glass spacer, i am finding that the extruder seems to be to far off of the print bed for for the PLA to stick to the bed properly. Any help would be appreciated. Love your videos!
Tyler, will the start and end Gcode that you have work for my monoprice maker select plus? I used it for my mini and it was awesome!. I just dont want to break my maker plus. Thank you!
man with you so far. didn't have those issues with the update.bin. great video.
Hi, I don't understand the purpose of G28 -your comment says "move XY to min end stops" -when I looked it up it says G28 is "Move to reference point" So why use this instead of just use G1?
Booguloo Furstaverg G28 is the command to home the axes, setting their zero points. You need to set G28 to ensure that moves like G1 X0 actually move to the real x home
Thanks
Learnt so much from these videos - much appreciated.
Can you provide advice on filament retraction settings in Cura. I get marks across the finished surface with PLA+ as the extruder jumps across the surface filling in holes. I have no retraction values set.
+Dunk O the default retraction works decently, more recently I've been playing with lower retraction values (Cura defaults to 6mm I believe, I'm currently using 3.5mm), but haven't seen much of a difference. Finished surface marks is common on all 3D printers :)
I don't think Cura on the Mac was retracting at all for me and I getting a lot of stringing when Printing a cluster of small parts with ensuing PLA+. Activated the retraction setting and used 3mm/40mm per sec. fixed!
Quick Question: After following these instructions as well as the ones to configure cura, my printer is trying to print out of bounds. It seems like it does no longer know where the center point is. I double checked my bet and its configured at 120x120x120. Seems like it's of to the bottom left. The stepper makes a rattling noise. Any idea?
When this happens to me I turn my printer off, then gently push the print head all the way to the left, and the bed all the way to the back. Then when I turn it back on the printer is already at "Home" (0,0). ;)
I updated my settings in Pronterface as you directed and when I got to the point of disconnecting and reconnecting I am now getting this error.
[ERROR] Could not connect to COM3 at baudrate 115200:
Serial error: could not open port COM3: [Error 2] The system cannot find the file specified.
What gives?
You may need to try the other available COM ports. That error is almost always because you have other serial devices installed. My Mini's usually mount as COM3 or COM5, but they've also been COM2/4 before. Cycle through connecting to each COM port listed until it connects :)
After making the pronterface console changes, my lcd reads 180 degrees and never rises above. i actually had some filament start smoking because the hot end was attempting to continue heating (though I'm positive it was well above the listed 180) Ever heard of this? What did I do wrong? Can I reset it to the factory settings?
These tutorials have been a real help - thanks. I have used your start and end G-codes but for all prints i find that the fan stays on for more than 5 minutes (code double checked). I am using motion firmware V29.39. Any ideas?
Thanks
Working now. Interestingly, the printer maximally draws 60w of power (when printing with PLA). Seems to be well within the 120w power supply rating.
does the printer has a reset button. I just got one, my heater cartridge was broken, install a new one and replace the heat sensor. it all worked, but the temperature is increasing even though the temperature that heat the extruder is off. how do I resolve the issue.
Hey tyler can u make another video with alternative 3d printing slicing software instead of cura having issues seting up printer thru cura
Windows compiled Pronterface is not available at that URL anymore. Is it hosted anywhere else?
+One Sock it looks like the site is just temporarily down, but that is still the official binaries site for pronterface. It should be back online shortly :)
I realized that you were only using it for sending gcode, which I was able to do with repetier host. Following a lot of your tips, I was able to get my bed up to 85c (used corrugated cardboard instead of cork/foam) and had a near perfect abs print (gluestick on 3M painter's tape). Now I've moved onto crazy hacks, like installing an e3d hot end and upgrade my fans.
Hi. I was wondering where can I find the Gcode that you copied info the start and end of the cura setup?
Thanks Chris, I added the gcode to the description as well as with annotations over the video :)
Hello, do these same M301 & M304 values apply to the new V2 version of the MP Select Mini? Thanks
When I try to check the layers in cura like you did around 12:30, all i get is either the model all in yellow, or a multicolored mess. It doesn't show the individual layers no matter how high i set the slider. Any suggestions?
hello, I am having trouble when it comes to printing out files from thingiverse. When I print them out, they never seem to print correctly. Could you give me some possible solutions to fix this problem.
Definitely join the facebook group - make a post with photos of your print, and post with a screenshot of the settings you're using in Cura. That will help us help you to troubleshoot :) facebook.com/groups/1717306548519045/
Life and Times of Tyler actually I figured out what I was doing wrong. I didn't have the correct base to build on lol
When I add the printer it doesn't seem to have a custom option, I'm using cura v2.7. What can i use for an alternate?
When my M200 prints with XYZ PLA onto the original masking tape bed I am not getting proper bed adhesion. When it starts printing a circular brim, from the outside in, the filament keeps taking straight-line shortcuts instead of printing the circle as it should. It's very frustrating. I have tried all your settings and scripts and have tried temperatures on the bed of up to 60 degrees and 200 degrees for the nozzle hoping it would stick. I have spent three days and have done about 15 failed prints and none successful so far. I even tried that dodgy trick of wiping the bed with a glue stick.. not my preferred option. Also, this starting script seems to produce a lot of dags that screw up the first part of the print as the machine drags the tangled plastic around the bed. What should I set retraction distance to?
This is a frustrating, but simple solution fortunately. If your brim isnt going down smoothly, your bed is too far away from the nozzle. Re-level the bed using your paper and make the distance just a bit smaller so you can feel more drag on the paper.
You'll pretty much always want to watch the beginning of every print to wipe away any boogers of filament that may get laid down initially. It's important to purge before starting a print, and with a low-end printer like the mini, just a reality that you need to manually pull those out of the way so they don't cause collisions later.
Thanks, I did this and added retraction settings and it now works brilliantly!
Thanks for your excellent videos on setup and customisation.
Tyler, can you explain the layer height and where to set them?
PLEASE HELP!!! So, i load a model into Cura(set-up per manual suggestion) from Thingaverse. A whistle. Simple. i save gcode to a folder then copy that file onto the sd card that came with the printer Note: if a file name uses an underscore___ it will not save or write the file to the sd card for some reason. Okay, so then i put the card into the printer with a correct file name (whistle) and hit print. Nothing happens except.... the blue time line starts to go. And its goes until the end and hangs up. I can not cancel, I can not pause and i can not print. Now, the "Cat.gcode" file that comes on the sd card with the printer prints just fine. Cura does not seem to work with this machine for me now. I forgot to mention, i worked the first few times UNTIL i tried to set up the WiFi which was a fail. I can't even get the usb to work... Please help.
Thanks for getting my select mini working! When the nozzle travels from one side of the print to the other it scrapes just a little. Is there a way for it to go up a little more before traveling?
What version of Cura is that? My view doesn't look like yours, I have 15.04.2. How do I change the view?
cura 2.3.1
This confused me as well. According to the below page they changed version number format. v15.04.6 was the last of the xx.xx.x format where they then switched to using 2.x.x format. As of this comment, v2.4 is the latest. ultimaker.com/en/products/cura-software/list
I am upgrading from the v1 to the maker select v2. Will the starting and ending g codes work for the new printer or is there a website I can get the codes from? thanks
Do you have to restore the values into the eeprom after updating firmware? I upgraded from 36 to 40 on the v2. Thank for your great vids!
Do you need to update the G-codes with Pronterface on the V2 or will these settings apply to that as well?
Not sure if this has been mentioned in a previous comment. Pronterface won't recognise the USB connection on a Mac. You need to download and install the FTDI?? chip drivers from here; www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm
Would you recommend using these settings with the new MP Select Mini 3D Printer V2?Thanks!!
Hi, I understand setting the wall thickness to 1.2 to get better strength and surface finish, but why do you leave the top/bottom thickness at 0.8? Wouldn't this also be better at 1.2?
+gektron wall thickness needs to be thicker to prevent the infill pattern from being visible on the outer shell. Also, the part will be the weakest in the vertical axis compared to XY, so the additional thickness provides a bit more comparative strength. But! It never hurts to have the top and bottom thicker!
Ah thank you I get it now
Just another question if you don't mind. I'm using a 0.175 mm layer height for the MP Select Mini. Should the top/bottom thickness actually be a multiple of this? For example 0.875 mm (5 layers) or does it not really matter? I ask this because we hear that wall thickness should be a multiple of nozzle width.
+gektron top and bottom doesn't need to be a direct multiple because the slicer will always round it to a layer height. This rarely matters in zheights but has big fit issues in XY for thin walled parts. It would only matter for Z when the interior height of a part needs to be mechanically precise.
I suspected the slicer might do this. Thank you so much for your time answering these questions.
Have the settings changed since then I don't know if I should do the nozzle setting thing.
One more question, how did you open the stl file into Cura?
Hello i just do this to my monoprices V2 n i gat 228 bytes can someone Tell me why.?
now I know why my printer freezes up at the end of the print and it wont home and steppers still activated, I think (wont know until I make changes)
look at the end code, on the video and the description
m84 steppers off is missing in the description
it just says disable motor
and just noticed my filament totally retracted out of the tube too , once the print finished
guess I need to check that too
Yep. It's not "freezing up"
The command
G4 P300000 ; wait 5 minutes before turning off the fan
Will sleep everything for 5 minutes to give time for the hotend to cool before turning the fan off. During this time you will only be able to make movements from the control panel (no USB). Feel free to remove this line and you'll see the blocking go away.
If your filament is backing completely out of the tube, you'd mistyped something somewhere. The below command backs out the filament by 5mm (E-5 means extruder minus 5mm)
G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F9000 ;move z up a bit and retract filament even more
I use this on two different Mini's with two different firmware revs and have never seen either of them back out the filament more than the 6mm total specified in the ending gcode.
Hope that helps!
ok thanks, im going to modify or remove that command
I think the filament coming out was my attempt of moving the z axis up on the control panel, and when pressed in the button it moved to extruder. Because that has never happened again and I've modded the button taller now and much easier to control
Can you use your own pictures, drawings & signatures?
I just purchased the v2 model do you think I can use the same pid values as v1 ?
Someone, please help! I got filament stuck in the nozzle and have looked up methods such as the "atomic method" and can not for the life of me get the filament out of the nozzle no matter what I do, anyone have any suggestions? I only got this printer a week or so ago and printed 1 thing.
Chances are you'll have to disassemble the hotend. I've not messed with bowden extruders, but on a direct drive you can disassemble the coldend and then use something small like an Allen wrench to push any filament that is stuck through the nozzle (while it's hot, of course.) I imagine this would work on a bowden setup as well.
Do these PID values work with the V2 version as well?
When you go to install Cura, is the printer still plugged in via USB?
No, I don't use it connected at all. I use the SD card in a card reader, save to SD and then put it in the printer. To open an STL in Cura, you go to File->Open
when i connect my printer to pronterface i dont see any com ports. how do i find it?
same here. can anyone help!
I did this and it looks like it may have done more harm than good and it is printing in terrible quality, before it was ok now it sucks. D: (HELP ME)
i want to bought new one from amazon i need to used the setting or already same your setting ??
+Max q8 even with new ones you will need to tune the PID values for the hotend. However, you will probably not need to update the firmware itself as long as the number shown on startup is 22.39 or higher
hey is this required? or can i just print with just machine?
super confused
If you're going to be away from your print job when it finishes you do NOT want it to return to home after finishing since your print will still be on the bed and it could damage your print or printer.
It's okay to return it to XY home, as it lifts up the Z a bit first. You're correct though if your print is using close to the maximum z-height of the printer, might be best not to have it home XY just in case
HEY TYLE UR PICTURE IN PICTURE IS COVERING THE REST OF THE SETTINGS
is it okay to use the cura program that is on the sd card?
Aron Thompson you can, it should work. It's just quite out of date and Cura 2.3+ has a lot of improvements.
Oh OK well, I did use the one in the video but when I got ready to print parts of the print would mess up and a few times the screen on the printer would freeze and sometime get glichy.
how do you remove them ? i have a typo
Thanks for your video series, they've helped me a lot in getting started with 3D printing. I bought this printer under the Malyan M200 name because I'm in the UK. I followed your firmware and temperature gcode setup instructions and have managed to print some stuff fairly successfully, however... Whenever I try to print any kind of gear, it really messes it up. I'm trying this model : www.thingiverse.com/thing:30615; sliced in Cura. I'm starting to think it might have something to do with the filament retraction. I used the Cura settings described on the manufacturer site : wiki.malyansys.com/doku.php?id=cura_setting_for_m200. Any ideas why it always seems to mess up the first layer of gear teeth?
Use the settings I provide in the video and on my blog www.thetylergibson.com/monoprice-select-mini-part-3-tuning-and-slicing/ you will get better results than the stock settings from Malyan. Usually if you're getting bad prints from the start, especially the first layer, its almost 100% caused by not having the bed properly leveled.
Hi, is this working for v2?
where do we adjust the layer height?
Nick Ambrosini check 13:53 in the video for layer height, it's the first setting under quality in Cura 2.3.1
do i desgn the x and y axis of objects in multiples of .4 and the z in multiples provided in the description?
If you are using the default .4mm nozzle, then yep! And yep, exactly right with the z multiples as well. For tolerances between parts, .2-.3mm "gap" will usually results in a very, very tight fit in reality.
how do you use cura
That's what this video is guiding you through. Are you having specific problems? Might be faster to join the MP Select Mini facebook group and ask there too :) facebook.com/groups/1717306548519045/
I have ABS Filament do i need a spacer for my monoprice pm silect mini 3d priner
To reliably print ABS, adding cork insulation so you can get the bed temp to 85C, and adding some sort of build surface beyond painters/masking tape is a really really good idea. If you want to use a glass bed, yes you will need to print or otherwise craft a space. If you want to use a BuildTak or PEI sheet, or Kapton tape you may not need a spacer at all.
House burnt down
your face is in the way i cant see a thing
Is the Pronterface code needed for the MPSM V2?
When I go to preheat, the extruder temperature just displays "N/A" and the platform "999°", I can set the target temperature but neither will actually begin to heat. Anybody know of a solution?
You've unfortunately got a broken/snapped/shorted thermistor. You can RMA the printer for a replacement, or checkout the facebook group for help on how to replace it yourself if you're feeling curious :)
Pronterface wont connect to my mini. Any suggestions?
It just keeps saying M105
What firmware revision are you running? Check out the MP Mini facebook group, we have a great community there that can help you out a lot more quickly than I will be able to :)
Life and Times of Tyler ok thanks...i believe version 29