Just wanted to say thanks for your videos. Before I found your channel I was paying $95/month to a pool guy who didn’t know what he was doing. Now I take care of my pool myself and it’s never looked cleaner!
Jesse that is exactly what I love to hear because that is why I started this channel! I’m so glad the videos have been helpful and I do hope that you will continue watching if you haven’t subscribed already please do so and I would appreciate it greatly if you would share my channel with everyone you know Who owns a pool.
After my pool has gone dark green a couple of times, a friend said to add tons of chlorine and algaecide then to run the filter 24/7 til clear. Three days and lots of $$$ in chemicals and there was not much improvement. I bought a pump at harbor freight for $60. Renting one requires two trips and is not cheaper. I probably had my pool empty too long but no damage resulted...thank Goodness. I opened my filter canister and that pumped the water out faster to the lawn but I stopped that when the lawn got wet and before there was enough water to migrate back to the pool. I had heard horror stories about pools popping out. The pressure washer at Harbor Freight for $80 is the best I have owned. This was a helluva lot easier than brushing the sides had the chlorine and pump worked. Hope this helped.
There should be a plug at the bottom of the filter yoy can undo. Make sure the skim line is turned off at the valve. But yes that's what I do. Helps take the water out amd real quick. Lots of these videos say not to do certain things but I work for a very reputable company and we have never had any issues. There's a smart way to do it and a hard way. Also make sure that plug in the main drain for pressure relief is taken out before you start.
I'm in the East Valley, I drain mine in January, preferably right after New Year's, when it's typically the coldest time of the year out here. Iget my pump and hoses from HD,
Hi Kenny I think your videos are very practical and useful, l I've just partially drained and refilled with fresh water and my stabilzer now is around 50 ppm my query is to prevent in the future high stabilzer would you recommend chlorine or calcium hypochlorite 70% thanks Paul
Cal hypo is going to add more calcium to the pool and that means possibly more mineral deposits or scaling. How did you're CYA go to 50ppm with fresh water? My suggestion is still chlorine for sanitizer on a regular basis.
@@paularistidis ah OK, my bad for some reason I thought you drain the pool completely and refilled it but you only did a partial drain refill so you’re good. In my opinion I would stick with the chlorine tablets inconvenience is what you’re wanting. The Cal hypo. It’s not something I would use regularly for pre-coronation. It’s typically used as a shock. Especially because it adds calcium to the pool, and that can lead to scaling or calcium deposits on the sides and bottom of your pool if you really don’t mind testing the pool water on a daily basis And adding chlorine, the best way to do it is using liquid chlorine because there’s no CYA in that at all.
Most modern pools have an auto leveler which maintains the pools water level. If yours is not so equipped you want to maintain a level that's about half way up the tile line OR has the water covering half of the opening to the skimmer.
If you are draining the pool do you need to check the hydrostatic relief valve? I've read this is sometimes the cause of the pool popping. Do I need to check this valve? Do I need to open to release any pressure? Any insight will be great appreciated.
@@PoolSchooler Absolutely! It's not a good idea to drain a pool if you don't know what your ground water level is. Pool can float if the hydrostatic pressure is too high. Watch a video showing pools that popped out of the ground when emptied. You'll think twice about doing this yourself.
Just drained, acid washed and regrouted tiles (as some were falling off after 8 years). Really appreciate advice as to how soon after grouting can refill pool. Pool is covered with tarpaulin and daytime temp 95F. Many thanks
I would probably refer to the manufacturers guidelines for how long that grout needs to cure before you re-fill the pool but with that type of outside air temperature, they definitely don’t wanna leave it drained for too long or at least keep your surface i.e. Plaster or pebble, Teck, etc. Moist so doesn’t dry out or crack.
I love your overall demeanor when doing these videos. Glad I came across your channel, which I subscribed to. You are very enjoyable to listen to. Hope you can help me with the problems I've been having, since no-one else seems to be able to (other than the suggestions I mentioned in either my email or comment on the other video.)
No that’s not my understanding i have a concrete pool with pebble tech coating and I was told I have to remove the plug out of my pool to equalize the pressure or my pool could possibly pop out of the ground. Is this not true? Thank you for all your information.
@@emoneyblue to be honest with you I’ve never heard of doing that except on a fiberglass prefab pool where they dig the hole and then put the entire fiberglass pool with a crane down into the hole that’s been dug, etc. in that case I have heard of it once the water is out but never in one that is done with shot Creek and Plaster or Peddle tech the traditional way. Fat we just drained one of my clients pools overnight to acid wash and clean it today and didn’t have to take out any specific plug. Just drop in a high volume submersible pump and drained the pool
Thanks for the reply. I think I’m just so scared of doing my pool cause my wife will kill me if I mess up her pool I see the call them electrostatic plugs and they’re inside your drain. That’s what I was confused about. Thank you so much for all your help I appreciate you.
@@troybonham9829 it depends on if you’re having to do any plumbing below the waterline of the pool. It’s probably a good idea to drain it to do it so that way you don’t run into any issues.
Brand new (1week) homeowner here, never owned a pool in my life. 20,000 gallons gunite. Total and Free Chlorine at 12.17 and CYA at 117. Was told to drain 12” and refill to dilute by pool store after testing water. Closing in 1-2 weeks…worth it? I’m going crazy over here (live in PA).
I have a 30,000 gallon Inground pool. It has sat up for over a year and is full of leaves at the bottom and now sludge. It is a vinyl liner. Can I not drain it, clean it out, and refill it? I’m being told it will ruin the liner if I do it this way. Please help. Thanks!
You can for sure drain it, and refill it. You'll probably need to clean your filter media. Unless it's really hot where you live your liner should be ok AS LONG AS YOU DON'T LET IT SIT EMPTY! Once you drain it. Clean the liner, (clean the filter FIRST BEFORE YOU DRAIN THE POOL). Then refill it immediately and add your start up chemicals.
I believe I did a video on above ground leaks in pipes. Unfortunately detecting leaks under the cool deck or under ground at all can be difficult. AND under cement you need listening equipment to locate the leak then you're talking excavating and in those cases I would honestly recommend getting a professional who is licensed and insured to do the work and detecting. But I will do one on a product that can seal a leak in a pipe that's above ground.
Hi. Working on my sister's poll. She just got the house (in Mesa) with a nice salt water pool but the salt level is high (tested at 4400 ppm with a digital gauge). I was set to get a pump and drain off 1/3 of it to bring it down (adding fresh water and rebalancing the chemicals on the back end) but having watched this (and your other related videos) now I'm a little concerned about exposing the pebbletech when it's 115 outside. I hate for the salt to corrode the pump or chlorine generator. Given the salt level, do you think I should go ahead and do it now, or wait for cooler weather? Thanks!
Pebble tech is not as sensitive to the heat as plaster. If you do it quickly (ie: put the pump in at sunset, drain 1/4 - 1/3 (should take an hour or so) then refill immediately you should be ok.
I need to change the bottom drain ring in my in ground pool. I have to patch a hole right next to it. Just wondering if I drain all of the water out for like an hour before I start to refill is going to hurt it?
I’m sorry, I’m not sure I understand the question completely but once we hit October and the temperature is cooler then you can drain your pool safely and do the repair that you need to without worrying about how soon or how late you refill it. Hope that helps.
Just bought a home with a pool in Southern AZ. I watched your when to change the water, I got super high CYA (194) and hardness/calcium (986), and that seems to mean I need to change the water. Do you think I should control the phosphates now and wait until it is cooler to drain and refill... or should I drain and refill now? Thanks.
Arturo Kiyama as a rule of thumb are usually will not drain or refill a pool until the daily high temperature doesn’t get over 84°. It’s a bit too risky when it’s hotter because your plaster could crack. It’s not as important with pebble Tec. But I would definitely treat your pool and get those phosphates down and then maybe wait till November since we’re still pretty warm out here to do the drain and refill.
I’m so glad to hear that thank you so much for your comment. Hope you subscribed and hope you will check out my new DIY pool maintenance membership website. www.poolschooler.com
@@PoolSchooler I definitely subscribed and liked 😊 I will check out your maintenance site too. If I may ask another question please? I watched your video on phosphate removal and will get that product you recommended. My question is regarding removal of the sediment that comes after using the product. Last year I was told by the pool store that my premier dolphin wouldn’t be able to vacuum all of it up so I ended up hiring them... I prefer to save the money and use my robot. Do you think that will work? My phosphate reading was 3115. (Last year I think they ended up saying their phosphate reader was off so I’m not sure I can trust that number.) thanks again for your help! Sara in Seattle (very few pools here so very little help!)
@@saraw112 i’ve heard that a lot of robotic vacuums don’t get the smaller dust particles. You might have to manually vacuum your pool, or I might recommend switching over to a stay in the pool suction side vacuum I would recommend a barracuda G3
@@PoolSchooler hi Ken, I bought the phosphate remover you recommended. The pool store said my phosphates are at 3000 ppm in my 18k gallon fiberglass pool. How much pr 100000 phosphate remover should I put in? 16 oz? Thank you!! Love your videos!
@@saraw112 I'd suggest following the directions on the label for the PR 10,000. AND NOT THE POOL STORE'S. Im not a fan of pool supply stores. Most of their employees are sales people or minimum. wage workers not pool service professionals.
I can't seem to get the green out my pool, no matter how many products the pool place has recommended. Should I just drain and refill? It's a 32×16×52 above ground pool
It really depends. Have you watched my video on clearing a green pool. Here's a link. Please watch it in it's entirety it should help. ruclips.net/video/mA8BoMe7IVM/видео.html
Or this one on how I cleared my own above ground pool when it turned green: ruclips.net/video/XY-BAdBY0zI/видео.html Either one of these should answer your questions.
Hi Kenny, thanks for the videos, very useful. One thing I want to ask should we remove the drain cover? I got to the point my cuántica acid went a bit high to the point my chlorine was not doing much. So draining will be helpful. On your video you didn’t say anything about removing the pressure valve. I want to do a chlorine wash before filling it. Should I remove the pressure valve when the pool is nearly empty? Thanks
I'm glad my videos have been helpful. To your question typically you shouldn't need to remove the floor drain cover to do what you're talking about nor should you have to remove the pressure valve. If you acid or chlorine wash a pool you shouldn't use a ton of water which usually I've used a larger shop vac to remove but I always leave a little in the bottom of the pool and it helps with the start up chemical process. Hope that helps, and if you'd like to make a donation I'm producing and directing a unique travel series that we are raising funding for and would love it if you would visit the production's website at tappingtheworld.com , watch the short video and make a donation if you are so inclined.
HELP! - I live in Texas and need to drain pool due to unsavable water. Plus, it hasn't been changed in 15 years so it's time. My question is how much of the water do I need to drain to get chemistry back to normal? I see these pools popping out of the ground and don't want to risk that. Old pool, concrete. Thanks in advance!
Really the best thing to do is change all of the water if you can. BUT if you're afraid of the pool popping out of the ground then drain at least half of it. BUT KNOW it won't be as good as draining the entire thing.
There are seals and the plastic of the cord is fused to the housing usually The one thing you need to look out for though is to make sure the end of the cord isn't under water and doesn't have a risk of getting splashed
Scarlett Presley if you can email me a picture of the type of “kitty pool“ you’re talking about I’m happy to help you. My email is Kennypoolschool@gmail.com.
New pool owner in Texas, my pool was just finished in June! Thanks for the videos! Little did I know that chlorine tabs are used to supplement the chlorine levels. So I used my in line chlorinator and set it to the highest setting. Now my CYA is 105. I’ve been told to drain about a quarter and refill. I’ve also been told the CYA will lower over the upcoming non swim season. Thoughts?
I do indeed, 105 for your CYA is nothing to be afraid of. I have some of my pools the CYA is at 300. That’s when it’s time to change the water. Changing it out at 1:05 is premature even though it’s a little bit high you’re going to waste a ton of water and you don’t really need to do it yet. One of my biggest recommendations is stop listening to pool supply stores. They’re great if you know what you need but they’re not great if you’re looking for advice.
@@PoolSchooler I had the pool supply store tell us to drain 1/2 our pool and refill due to our CYA at level 142. I'm in Texas and it is 100 degrees. Thoughts?
@@gigidriscoll9752 Honestly at 142 CYA it's not too high. I've had pools that are at 300ppm CYA and that's when we typically would do a drain and refill. I think you don't need to do it. BUT if you do I'd wait til the end of the swim season and do it then. 100 degrees is too hot to do that and could damage your plaster.
My new home has an established 15,000 gallon pool. The CYA was 169. At the recommendation of my pool supply company, I drained ~50% and was able to bring it down to 105. I’m glad I found this channel and will stop worrying so much.
Just drained and refilled this morning. Now I need to follow that start up guide to get my water balance perfect. And have it stay that way. The video is step by step on adding chemicals, for how long to circulate and when right?
Thank you for your comment and I believe my video on start up chemicals what to use and how to add them is fairly step-by-step it all hinges first and foremost with testing your water to see what your chlorine level pH and alkalinity levels are. That way you can know how to adjust. And I did separate videos for adjusting alkalinity and adjusting pH so you might want to check those out too. And lastly check out my video on cyanuric acid or stabilizer because you don’t want to add too much of that to fresh water.
Pool School Thankfully ph, alkalinity and hardness are all within range to start. So no need to adjust those. I did start with a metal sequesterant because I have had issues with metals in the past. Let that circulate for the recommended 4-8 hours and now I just added the stabilizer. Of course the reading was zero. The container says add 3 pounds per 10K gallons to bring to 35ppn. I added 1.5 pounds to see where that gets me. My pool is 12K. Don’t want a CYA issue. Hope that will be enough and then I can add my liquid chlorine 2 gallons. I have a heater. I’m waiting until all levels are ideal to start that up. Thanks for your videos, reply’s and your time.
Probably should have added a disclaimer for folks outside of Arizona that their pool could float and be heavily damaged if they have a high water table.
I can not for the life of me figure out where to drain the water here in Mesa Arizona they said it is illegal for me to dump it in the street and I have a septic so I don’t have a sewage clean out
@@trueskatewithsam5275 wow! That’s not very helpful of them. So I just spoke with a friend who specializes in pool repair and he said in the case of Mesa and since you have a septic tank to thoughts. First if your septic drain field is large enough that’s where he suggested doing it as he has done that before. Or second, usually if you contact the city and ask for a permit to do it they will issue you a permit to allow you to do it. I hope that helps.
Trying to get clarification on your question. Are you asking about an above ground pool that has a plug? Or an inground pool? None of the inground pools that I service have any kind plug to drain them.
Then you're issue is a green pool not necessarily a pool that need to be drained and refilled. Watch this video on how to clear a green pool it'll help a ton: ruclips.net/video/mA8BoMe7IVM/видео.html Hope you'll subscribe and for more $$$ saving tools etc check out my website poolschooler.com
Two points that probably ought to be addressed. First, don't do what I did and DROP the pump into the pool. I created a silver dollar sized divot in the bottom plaster. The water does NOT cushion the fall. Also. If you keep running the pump with the pool empty, your going you find out what a new pump costs. Fortunately I did not do that. I'm down here in Casa Grande and I find your videos invaluable. I'll have to look at the list of your vids to see if you addressed said divots and a hairline crack that had developed. No leaks, but it bothers me. Also have you ever addressed the small cracks that develop on the apron around the pool. Its a very common style concrete or stucco looking stuff that I've seen on several pools in the area. Thanks.
Hi Rick and thank you for your comment. I actually have not done a video on either of those topics that you mentioned. I probably will not end up doing one ever on the Divet that you mentioned and as far as hairline cracks about the only thing I can suggest is they make several different products out there that you can seal it kind of like a caulking but you have to drain the pool in order to do it it’s temporary and it’s somewhat aesthetically not the most attractive. But it does prevent seepage through the plaster which can lead to a rebar leak where the iron reinforcement bar in your Gunite starts to rust and that rust creeps up through that crack.
Use a trash pump to get the water out if you're on a job. Moves a lot of water. One of those pump you showed will take too long and leaving the pool without water that long is not good.
@@-redacted_by_youtube to be honest, I agree with you partially. As long as the outside air temperature doesn’t exceed 86°F that pump is sufficient. We put the pump in at night. It drains it overnight the next day. We do the acid wash and refill it. So it’s only empty for less than a day and as long as the air temperature is not too hot it’s fine.
Sorry for the repetition. I'll try to work on not over repeating myself. But I've had some subscribers not hear me the first time so I've tried to insure that they have by repeating myself.
He repeats himself cause of Knuckle Heads not listening, also he knows if you don't get it right the first time in the pool industry it can cost hundreds if not thousands of dollars. C'mon use your head Jerry.
Just wanted to say thanks for your videos. Before I found your channel I was paying $95/month to a pool guy who didn’t know what he was doing. Now I take care of my pool myself and it’s never looked cleaner!
Jesse that is exactly what I love to hear because that is why I started this channel! I’m so glad the videos have been helpful and I do hope that you will continue watching if you haven’t subscribed already please do so and I would appreciate it greatly if you would share my channel with everyone you know Who owns a pool.
After my pool has gone dark green a couple of times, a friend said to add tons of chlorine and algaecide then to run the filter 24/7 til clear. Three days and lots of $$$ in chemicals and there was not much improvement. I bought a pump at harbor freight for $60. Renting one requires two trips and is not cheaper. I probably had my pool empty too long but no damage resulted...thank Goodness. I opened my filter canister and that pumped the water out faster to the lawn but I stopped that when the lawn got wet and before there was enough water to migrate back to the pool. I had heard horror stories about pools popping out. The pressure washer at Harbor Freight for $80 is the best I have owned. This was a helluva lot easier than brushing the sides had the chlorine and pump worked. Hope this helped.
There should be a plug at the bottom of the filter yoy can undo. Make sure the skim line is turned off at the valve. But yes that's what I do. Helps take the water out amd real quick. Lots of these videos say not to do certain things but I work for a very reputable company and we have never had any issues. There's a smart way to do it and a hard way. Also make sure that plug in the main drain for pressure relief is taken out before you start.
I'm in the East Valley, I drain mine in January, preferably right after New Year's, when it's typically the coldest time of the year out here. Iget my pump and hoses from HD,
Perfect. Youre doing it right.
What leaf rake do you recommend for inground plaster pools.
I did a video on those here's a link: ruclips.net/video/RX_enhqYFog/видео.html
Hi Kenny I think your videos are very practical and useful, l I've just partially drained and refilled with fresh water and my stabilzer now is around 50 ppm my query is to prevent in the future high stabilzer would you recommend chlorine or calcium hypochlorite 70% thanks Paul
Cal hypo is going to add more calcium to the pool and that means possibly more mineral deposits or scaling. How did you're CYA go to 50ppm with fresh water? My suggestion is still chlorine for sanitizer on a regular basis.
@@PoolSchooler HI Kenny yes my CYA level is now at around 50-60 ppm
@@paularistidis So am I correct in assuming you added CYA to the fresh water to get it to that level?
No before I added the fresh water my CYA was 100 ppm but now I have reduced it to 50ppm
@@paularistidis ah OK, my bad for some reason I thought you drain the pool completely and refilled it but you only did a partial drain refill so you’re good. In my opinion I would stick with the chlorine tablets inconvenience is what you’re wanting. The Cal hypo. It’s not something I would use regularly for pre-coronation. It’s typically used as a shock. Especially because it adds calcium to the pool, and that can lead to scaling or calcium deposits on the sides and bottom of your pool if you really don’t mind testing the pool water on a daily basis And adding chlorine, the best way to do it is using liquid chlorine because there’s no CYA in that at all.
How do you know if your pool has a crack that's leaking water or how often should you be putting water in your pool
Most modern pools have an auto leveler which maintains the pools water level. If yours is not so equipped you want to maintain a level that's about half way up the tile line OR has the water covering half of the opening to the skimmer.
@@PoolSchooler Thank you!
If you are draining the pool do you need to check the hydrostatic relief valve? I've read this is sometimes the cause of the pool popping. Do I need to check this valve? Do I need to open to release any pressure? Any insight will be great appreciated.
Hmm. I'm not completely sure. Anyone else want to chime in, please do.
@@PoolSchooler Absolutely! It's not a good idea to drain a pool if you don't know what your ground water level is. Pool can float if the hydrostatic pressure is too high. Watch a video showing pools that popped out of the ground when emptied. You'll think twice about doing this yourself.
@@jchapman0920 I appreciate the comment and the information. Thank you.
Just drained, acid washed and regrouted tiles (as some were falling off after 8 years). Really appreciate advice as to how soon after grouting can refill pool. Pool is covered with tarpaulin and daytime temp 95F. Many thanks
I would probably refer to the manufacturers guidelines for how long that grout needs to cure before you re-fill the pool but with that type of outside air temperature, they definitely don’t wanna leave it drained for too long or at least keep your surface i.e. Plaster or pebble, Teck, etc. Moist so doesn’t dry out or crack.
I love your overall demeanor when doing these videos. Glad I came across your channel, which I subscribed to. You are very enjoyable to listen to. Hope you can help me with the problems I've been having, since no-one else seems to be able to (other than the suggestions I mentioned in either my email or comment on the other video.)
Thank you so much!
What about removing the plug in the bottom drain so that your pool doesn't pop out the ground?
What’s you’re describing is a prefab fiberglass pool to clarify, this video is on how to drain and refill a typical concrete based pool.
No that’s not my understanding i have a concrete pool with pebble tech coating and I was told I have to remove the plug out of my pool to equalize the pressure or my pool could possibly pop out of the ground. Is this not true? Thank you for all your information.
@@emoneyblue to be honest with you I’ve never heard of doing that except on a fiberglass prefab pool where they dig the hole and then put the entire fiberglass pool with a crane down into the hole that’s been dug, etc. in that case I have heard of it once the water is out but never in one that is done with shot Creek and Plaster or Peddle tech the traditional way. Fat we just drained one of my clients pools overnight to acid wash and clean it today and didn’t have to take out any specific plug. Just drop in a high volume submersible pump and drained the pool
Thanks for the reply. I think I’m just so scared of doing my pool cause my wife will kill me if I mess up her pool I see the call them electrostatic plugs and they’re inside your drain. That’s what I was confused about. Thank you so much for all your help I appreciate you.
@@emoneyblue They are called Hydrostatic Relief Valves, not electrostatic plugs.
Does a pool need to be drained to relocate your equipment and pad?
@@troybonham9829 it depends on if you’re having to do any plumbing below the waterline of the pool. It’s probably a good idea to drain it to do it so that way you don’t run into any issues.
Did you make this video around happy Valley Road cause it looks like my neighborhood
I didn't.
Brand new (1week) homeowner here, never owned a pool in my life. 20,000 gallons gunite. Total and Free Chlorine at 12.17 and CYA at 117. Was told to drain 12” and refill to dilute by pool store after testing water. Closing in 1-2 weeks…worth it? I’m going crazy over here (live in PA).
Honestly 117 is not too high. I'd wait to drain your pool. If it gets to over 200ppm then you may want to consider draining and refilling.
I have a 30,000 gallon Inground pool. It has sat up for over a year and is full of leaves at the bottom and now sludge. It is a vinyl liner. Can I not drain it, clean it out, and refill it? I’m being told it will ruin the liner if I do it this way. Please help. Thanks!
You can for sure drain it, and refill it. You'll probably need to clean your filter media. Unless it's really hot where you live your liner should be ok AS LONG AS YOU DON'T LET IT SIT EMPTY! Once you drain it. Clean the liner, (clean the filter FIRST BEFORE YOU DRAIN THE POOL). Then refill it immediately and add your start up chemicals.
You mentioned ideas for content. Any thoughts on leaks and leak repair? Finding leaks, accessing pipes under cement, etc.
I believe I did a video on above ground leaks in pipes. Unfortunately detecting leaks under the cool deck or under ground at all can be difficult. AND under cement you need listening equipment to locate the leak then you're talking excavating and in those cases I would honestly recommend getting a professional who is licensed and insured to do the work and detecting. But I will do one on a product that can seal a leak in a pipe that's above ground.
Hi. Working on my sister's poll. She just got the house (in Mesa) with a nice salt water pool but the salt level is high (tested at 4400 ppm with a digital gauge). I was set to get a pump and drain off 1/3 of it to bring it down (adding fresh water and rebalancing the chemicals on the back end) but having watched this (and your other related videos) now I'm a little concerned about exposing the pebbletech when it's 115 outside. I hate for the salt to corrode the pump or chlorine generator. Given the salt level, do you think I should go ahead and do it now, or wait for cooler weather? Thanks!
Pebble tech is not as sensitive to the heat as plaster. If you do it quickly (ie: put the pump in at sunset, drain 1/4 - 1/3 (should take an hour or so) then refill immediately you should be ok.
I need to change the bottom drain ring in my in ground pool. I have to patch a hole right next to it. Just wondering if I drain all of the water out for like an hour before I start to refill is going to hurt it?
I’m sorry, I’m not sure I understand the question completely but once we hit October and the temperature is cooler then you can drain your pool safely and do the repair that you need to without worrying about how soon or how late you refill it. Hope that helps.
Just bought a home with a pool in Southern AZ. I watched your when to change the water, I got super high CYA (194) and hardness/calcium (986), and that seems to mean I need to change the water. Do you think I should control the phosphates now and wait until it is cooler to drain and refill... or should I drain and refill now? Thanks.
Arturo Kiyama as a rule of thumb are usually will not drain or refill a pool until the daily high temperature doesn’t get over 84°. It’s a bit too risky when it’s hotter because your plaster could crack. It’s not as important with pebble Tec. But I would definitely treat your pool and get those phosphates down and then maybe wait till November since we’re still pretty warm out here to do the drain and refill.
@@PoolSchooler Thank you for the reply!! I appreciate it. It's an old plaster pool, so we are going to wait.
Arturo Kiyama that’s probably a good idea.
Do you have to take the main drain plug out when you drain the pool? Thx love the videos
It depends on how the suction side of your pool plumbing is configured.
Love your pool school!! So helpful!!
I’m so glad to hear that thank you so much for your comment. Hope you subscribed and hope you will check out my new DIY pool maintenance membership website. www.poolschooler.com
@@PoolSchooler I definitely subscribed and liked 😊 I will check out your maintenance site too. If I may ask another question please? I watched your video on phosphate removal and will get that product you recommended. My question is regarding removal of the sediment that comes after using the product. Last year I was told by the pool store that my premier dolphin wouldn’t be able to vacuum all of it up so I ended up hiring them... I prefer to save the money and use my robot. Do you think that will work? My phosphate reading was 3115. (Last year I think they ended up saying their phosphate reader was off so I’m not sure I can trust that number.) thanks again for your help! Sara in Seattle (very few pools here so very little help!)
@@saraw112 i’ve heard that a lot of robotic vacuums don’t get the smaller dust particles. You might have to manually vacuum your pool, or I might recommend switching over to a stay in the pool suction side vacuum I would recommend a barracuda G3
@@PoolSchooler hi Ken, I bought the phosphate remover you recommended. The pool store said my phosphates are at 3000 ppm in my 18k gallon fiberglass pool. How much pr 100000 phosphate remover should I put in? 16 oz? Thank you!! Love your videos!
@@saraw112 I'd suggest following the directions on the label for the PR 10,000. AND NOT THE POOL STORE'S. Im not a fan of pool supply stores. Most of their employees are sales people or minimum. wage workers not pool service professionals.
I can't seem to get the green out my pool, no matter how many products the pool place has recommended. Should I just drain and refill? It's a 32×16×52 above ground pool
It really depends. Have you watched my video on clearing a green pool. Here's a link. Please watch it in it's entirety it should help. ruclips.net/video/mA8BoMe7IVM/видео.html
Or this one on how I cleared my own above ground pool when it turned green: ruclips.net/video/XY-BAdBY0zI/видео.html
Either one of these should answer your questions.
Which chemicals to add after refilling new water in swimming pool
This video will tell you: ruclips.net/video/1a4a2PGQc5E/видео.htmlsi=n0yUgY5rYmJydMth
Hi Kenny, thanks for the videos, very useful. One thing I want to ask should we remove the drain cover? I got to the point my cuántica acid went a bit high to the point my chlorine was not doing much. So draining will be helpful. On your video you didn’t say anything about removing the pressure valve. I want to do a chlorine wash before filling it. Should I remove the pressure valve when the pool is nearly empty? Thanks
I'm glad my videos have been helpful. To your question typically you shouldn't need to remove the floor drain cover to do what you're talking about nor should you have to remove the pressure valve. If you acid or chlorine wash a pool you shouldn't use a ton of water which usually I've used a larger shop vac to remove but I always leave a little in the bottom of the pool and it helps with the start up chemical process.
Hope that helps, and if you'd like to make a donation I'm producing and directing a unique travel series that we are raising funding for and would love it if you would visit the production's website at tappingtheworld.com , watch the short video and make a donation if you are so inclined.
How much do u charge to drain pool
I don't do it anymore. I'd shop around to a few companies, ask for references and make sure they include and add ALL start up chemicals.
HELP! - I live in Texas and need to drain pool due to unsavable water. Plus, it hasn't been changed in 15 years so it's time. My question is how much of the water do I need to drain to get chemistry back to normal? I see these pools popping out of the ground and don't want to risk that. Old pool, concrete. Thanks in advance!
Really the best thing to do is change all of the water if you can. BUT if you're afraid of the pool popping out of the ground then drain at least half of it. BUT KNOW it won't be as good as draining the entire thing.
@@PoolSchooler Thanks
What part of my pool has a auto leveled? I just have a small intex 10×30 child's pool please let me know Thanks!
Your pool probably doesn't have one.
I've heard that it is NOT GOOD to acid wash a Pebble Tech Pool is that true?
I would agree with that. It's not uncommon for the dye in the pebbles to bleed due to the acid and then you have a mess and it looks terrible.
how does the pump manufacturer make it safe for the electrical cord on the pump to go into the water?
I'm not sure. Unfortunately I'm not an engineer. But they do make them and they are safe to completely submerge.
There are seals and the plastic of the cord is fused to the housing usually
The one thing you need to look out for though is to make sure the end of the cord isn't under water and doesn't have a risk of getting splashed
MAGIC
Can you please do a bathtub drain video...thank you
Hmmm. Not sure I’m versed in that. Sorry.
How do you put your kiddie pool away correctly for the fall
Scarlett Presley if you can email me a picture of the type of “kitty pool“ you’re talking about I’m happy to help you. My email is Kennypoolschool@gmail.com.
Can uu make a video of how to drain a child's pool
New pool owner in Texas, my pool was just finished in June! Thanks for the videos! Little did I know that chlorine tabs are used to supplement the chlorine levels. So I used my in line chlorinator and set it to the highest setting. Now my CYA is 105. I’ve been told to drain about a quarter and refill. I’ve also been told the CYA will lower over the upcoming non swim season. Thoughts?
I do indeed, 105 for your CYA is nothing to be afraid of. I have some of my pools the CYA is at 300. That’s when it’s time to change the water. Changing it out at 1:05 is premature even though it’s a little bit high you’re going to waste a ton of water and you don’t really need to do it yet. One of my biggest recommendations is stop listening to pool supply stores. They’re great if you know what you need but they’re not great if you’re looking for advice.
@@PoolSchooler I had the pool supply store tell us to drain 1/2 our pool and refill due to our CYA at level 142. I'm in Texas and it is 100 degrees. Thoughts?
@@gigidriscoll9752 Honestly at 142 CYA it's not too high. I've had pools that are at 300ppm CYA and that's when we typically would do a drain and refill. I think you don't need to do it. BUT if you do I'd wait til the end of the swim season and do it then. 100 degrees is too hot to do that and could damage your plaster.
My new home has an established 15,000 gallon pool. The CYA was 169. At the recommendation of my pool supply company, I drained ~50% and was able to bring it down to 105. I’m glad I found this channel and will stop worrying so much.
@@popeye6221 see my answer to your comment on CYA.
Just drained and refilled this morning. Now I need to follow that start up guide to get my water balance perfect. And have it stay that way. The video is step by step on adding chemicals, for how long to circulate and when right?
Thank you for your comment and I believe my video on start up chemicals what to use and how to add them is fairly step-by-step it all hinges first and foremost with testing your water to see what your chlorine level pH and alkalinity levels are. That way you can know how to adjust. And I did separate videos for adjusting alkalinity and adjusting pH so you might want to check those out too. And lastly check out my video on cyanuric acid or stabilizer because you don’t want to add too much of that to fresh water.
Pool School Thankfully ph, alkalinity and hardness are all within range to start. So no need to adjust those. I did start with a metal sequesterant because I have had issues with metals in the past. Let that circulate for the recommended 4-8 hours and now I just added the stabilizer. Of course the reading was zero. The container says add 3 pounds per 10K gallons to bring to 35ppn. I added 1.5 pounds to see where that gets me. My pool is 12K. Don’t want a CYA issue. Hope that will be enough and then I can add my liquid chlorine 2 gallons. I have a heater. I’m waiting until all levels are ideal to start that up. Thanks for your videos, reply’s and your time.
Probably should have added a disclaimer for folks outside of Arizona that their pool could float and be heavily damaged if they have a high water table.
How can you tell if the water table is high?
I can not for the life of me figure out where to drain the water here in Mesa Arizona they said it is illegal for me to dump it in the street and I have a septic so I don’t have a sewage clean out
Hmmm. I would suggest contacting your local city (Mesa) utilities and ask them. They should be able to help you.
@@PoolSchooler I did and you know what they said “sorry get creative as long as it doesn’t go in the street 😃”
@@trueskatewithsam5275 wow! That’s not very helpful of them. So I just spoke with a friend who specializes in pool repair and he said in the case of Mesa and since you have a septic tank to thoughts. First if your septic drain field is large enough that’s where he suggested doing it as he has done that before. Or second, usually if you contact the city and ask for a permit to do it they will issue you a permit to allow you to do it.
I hope that helps.
@@PoolSchooler thank you for your help I really appreciate I definitely will look into that permit
@@trueskatewithsam5275 you’re welcome. Keep me posted.
How come there’s no video on the tool need to take out the pool pug
Trying to get clarification on your question. Are you asking about an above ground pool that has a plug? Or an inground pool? None of the inground pools that I service have any kind plug to drain them.
Inground pool was about the plug tool
@@alexmoreno5894 I've honestly never heard of an inground pool that has a drain plug.
@@PoolSchooler I got it taken out. And took in out it was the pressure cap thanks.
What if it’s hot but pool is green extremely bad
Then you're issue is a green pool not necessarily a pool that need to be drained and refilled. Watch this video on how to clear a green pool it'll help a ton: ruclips.net/video/mA8BoMe7IVM/видео.html
Hope you'll subscribe and for more $$$ saving tools etc check out my website poolschooler.com
Two points that probably ought to be addressed. First, don't do what I did and DROP the pump into the pool. I created a silver dollar sized divot in the bottom plaster. The water does NOT cushion the fall. Also. If you keep running the pump with the pool empty, your going you find out what a new pump costs. Fortunately I did not do that. I'm down here in Casa Grande and I find your videos invaluable. I'll have to look at the list of your vids to see if you addressed said divots and a hairline crack that had developed. No leaks, but it bothers me. Also have you ever addressed the small cracks that develop on the apron around the pool. Its a very common style concrete or stucco looking stuff that I've seen on several pools in the area. Thanks.
Hi Rick and thank you for your comment. I actually have not done a video on either of those topics that you mentioned. I probably will not end up doing one ever on the Divet that you mentioned and as far as hairline cracks about the only thing I can suggest is they make several different products out there that you can seal it kind of like a caulking but you have to drain the pool in order to do it it’s temporary and it’s somewhat aesthetically not the most attractive. But it does prevent seepage through the plaster which can lead to a rebar leak where the iron reinforcement bar in your Gunite starts to rust and that rust creeps up through that crack.
get a soaker hose and put it around the pool so the water goes down the walls so it keeps them wet
A good idea indeed.
Use a trash pump to get the water out if you're on a job. Moves a lot of water. One of those pump you showed will take too long and leaving the pool without water that long is not good.
@@-redacted_by_youtube to be honest, I agree with you partially. As long as the outside air temperature doesn’t exceed 86°F that pump is sufficient. We put the pump in at night. It drains it overnight the next day. We do the acid wash and refill it. So it’s only empty for less than a day and as long as the air temperature is not too hot it’s fine.
How do i drain my kiddie pool the right way?
Scarlett Presley it’s sort of depends on the type of pool you have. If you can email me a few pictures of it I might be able to help you better.
Why not use the pool pump to drain the pool? Just make sure it is drawing from the drain at the bottom of the pool, not the skimmer.
You can do that if you wish.
What is your email address so I can send you a picture of something I haven’t seen you cover & how I can fix it ?
kennypoolschool@gmail.com. BTW, I always post it at the end of my videos.
Waste of a video if he can’t show us how to do it.
Get on with it. Why do you keep repeating yourself.
Sorry for the repetition. I'll try to work on not over repeating myself. But I've had some subscribers not hear me the first time so I've tried to insure that they have by repeating myself.
He repeats himself cause of Knuckle Heads not listening, also he knows if you don't get it right the first time in the pool industry it can cost hundreds if not thousands of dollars.
C'mon use your head Jerry.