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Bicycle hub cone repair
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- Опубликовано: 8 фев 2021
- In this video we show you how to reface a cone on a bicycle hub using tools you may have around the house. We use a drill, #431 Dremel sanding bands, a Dremel, #0000 steel wool, metal polishing cream and a clean towel or rag. A table vice would be handy but not necessary. The hub repair took about 45 minutes to do but that was with setting up the camera and tripping over tripods. Be careful this is not a how to video. If anything this is a don't do this video. Have fun!!
Wow! Good work... I also had the same pitted Shimano front cone! I opted to only worry about the ball track. Using new 'old' balls, I spun axle with fine grinding compound, then more balls & graphite. Final assembly and smooth enuf it will continue to reform. Properly greased & monitored for adj. I still run this bearing 10 yrs later. ❤
Thanks for commenting.👍
@@alloutbikes credit to you for not being a parts jockey but a real mechanic.
Hey Dude, Thanks for the detailed vid. I appreciate your attention to detail. I used the drill method with a small rounded file wrapped in 50/90/150 grit sand paper then hit it with scotchbrite Red then polished it up with a couple different metal polishes to restore the front and rear cones on my early 80's Novara Runabout that I rescued from the dumpster about 10 years ago. She is running smooth now and just wanted to say thanks for the excellent tutorial. Liked and Sub'd keep up the great work.
Thanks. I'm glad it helped.👍
Great tutorial. I find it amazing how difficult those cones are to find! They gotta be worth pennies, yet... I suppose that's the reason they're hard to find, where's the profit in selling such a small part that few rarely need. I notice mine has some small pitting, bearings still appear 100%, not flaking glitter dust like this one... but, you know my surprise when I try to get a new cone.
Everytime someone comes out with a new hub they have to change something.
Bent axle, sport. Homeboy lathe. Now harden the cone by heating with MAP and oil quenching.
Spot on bro. Works. I harden my long overhang freewheel hub axles too! Heavy hard rider....
Nice work. Really well explain!
Very good procedure. Regarding the thread damage from the drill, I always use the correct size tap and die to restore and clean out the threads as sometimes the axle does get nicked during regular usage not only by this procedure potentially.
The damage was minimal. I was able to thread the cone back on by hand.👍
@@alloutbikes oh good.. thanks.. I'm going to try your procedure tomorrow... I like messin around with tools and stuff too...keeps the mind sharp...
Thank you, sir ...I had no idea that they could be machined
This isn't "Machining", ... its grinding.
That hub appears to be a low quality Joy-tech which will be with Grade 300/400 carbon steel ball bearings, when I will retool hub cones out with the use of Carbon balls and in with High grade #25 Chromium ball bearings, and these cone are easy to find you should be able to find them on old discarded wheels and hubs. Also when removing material from a hub cone when rebuilding I will use a very thin washer to make up for the difference. Just my 2 cents.
Nope the hub was a older Shimano STX hub and was using good quality bearings and cones. I have tons of cones in the shop but none quite fit right. That is when I figured that I could do a video on a worst-case video on fixing the hub as best as you can in a all or nothing moment. Thankfully in 29 years I have only had to do this many 3 times. Thanks for your comments and thanks for watching.👍
Guess I have been lucky. Punishing Joy-tech hubs for decades, all still perfect. Neglect and maladjustment previous owner?
Good job
Thanks!
Im in your algorithm 😂 good shiznit. Ride on.
Thank you.👍
Good stuff Jason :)
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@Lawson Pablo instablaster :)
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@Lawson Pablo Glad I could help :)
Good fix as I cant get hold of any flanged cones for my Xero hubs which are pitted.I will try with wet and dry sandpaper method.
Just try to keep the cone the same shape. Also take off the absolute minimum. Goodluck!
@@alloutbikes Worked a dream!
Have a Shimano Deore LX HB-M570 hub on a newly acquired 20" recumbent front wheel. Too expensive to replace the wheel...or thread on a new hub. Also, you can't get the replacement cones anywhere. Did what you just did. Thanks for the vid. Your technique 100% works when you need to do it. Thanks for the vid.
Thank you. That was the idea. If you can't get it. Make it work. Thanks for the feedback.👍
Thank you so much for making the video.. Is there any way to sand out/repair damage to a cup?
It's alu and it should be replaced. Hub is f**ked
Thanks for the video, but that looks like a pretty crude way to polish something that needs to be precise and concentric! Your drill shaft was wobbling, and you were holding your grinder cylinder just in the air, not even braced against anything. I don't know if I'd try this, but maybe it works!
Very crude. It was a last resort situation. It did work very well in this case. It is best to replace the cone. I couldn't find a cone that would work(and I have alot). Thanks.👍
I'd like to try this on a bike I'm working on now. What grade of steel wool did you use and what's the purpose of the polishing cream besides getting a nice finished shine which you'll never see once the cone is back inside the hub covered in grease?
I used grade 000 steel wool first then I switched to 0000. I used the polish to further smooth out the cone. The polish does help make a smoother hub also you can spot imperfections sometimes. Thanks.
@@alloutbikes Thanks for the reply and the good info on the video. I'm going to proceed with a badly nicked up cone nut following your method.
I did the cone repair this morning and - Wow - I had a perfect result. Followed your procedure - axle with bad cone nut & lock nut in my drill, Dremel tool with the small 60 grit sanding drum, 0000 steel wool and a little polishing cream. Was a little worried about mis-shaping the cone with the sanding, so I went lightly with the Dremel & stopped to check progress several times. Re-assembled everything and tightened the bearings to the correct tightness and the wheel spins as good as new. One of the best bike RUclips DIY repairs I've come across - Thanks!!! How did you come up with this method?? It's genius!!
It's been over tightened.
Check the cups in the hub for damage before doing anything else, as if they are damaged then the hub is toast.
Actually this hub was to loose. The hub and bearings were banging around and caused the damage. Over tightening will also damage the hub. No damage in the cups. The video was just what you could do if the parts were not available and if there was no other problems. Thanks for commenting👍
@@alloutbikes If it was Too loose you wouldn't have had to loosen the cones in the first place to check which side was damaged.
Unless of course you had previously tightened them prior to the video.
Plus the damage to the cone is up on the larger diameter part indicating it was OVERTIGHTENED forcing the cone further into the hub.
Good job on the reprofiling of the cone.
Edit*
It's nice to see someone actually fix something these days, instead of just replacing it.
Keep up the good work.
@@alloutbikes Sorry for the delay in replying, I have good days and bad days but the bad are outweighing the good lately.
Haven't been able to build any wheels for the past 9 days, (right hand refusing to cooperate due to nerve damage)
I actually enjoy doing my hubs. My biggest question is what bearings to get Chrome Steel, Carbon Steel or Stainless Steel and what grade G25, G10 or G3? I have Chrome Steel G25 but thinking there is a better option what is your view?
The higher the G the better quality. If you really want nice go ceramic. Yes they have ceramic bearings. The are smoother and more rounded. Thanks.👍
@@alloutbikes Ceramic Si3N4 Silicon Nitride vs ZrO2 Zirconium Oxide which is best?
@@paulb9769 I have only used silicon nitride. You can use either one but I think Silicon Nitride is harder. They are both better then steel. Keep in mind that is a bit of overkill. I just like the fact that it doesn't rust.👍
In a cup-and-cone bearing I would never want to use ceramic bearing-balls. If the balls are so hard, you are going to destroy the cup and the cone more quickly. But the cup and the cone are typically far harder to replace than the balls. So you should rather use softer balls that you can replace very cheaply, and preserve the bearing surfaces longer.
Super cool! Has anyone tried to repair the cup (the other side on the hub)? Is there a way to do it?
I have tried. I did not go well.
@@alloutbikes Thanks for your reply! Did you try with this Dremel tool imgur.com/JUcZvT9 (the aluminum oxyde bits, the round ones)? P.S whether it works or not, it's always interesting to see a video of it, we learn so much from you!
I have done thid in a pedestal drill for many years .
Sometimes you have to. Other times you do it because You Can.
With the drill method, is there a risk of damaging my axle thread in my drill chuck? or is there a way to avoid this? Cheers
The threads will get a small amount of marking. In the 28 years of doing this I have never had any problems. Good luck and Thanks!
Cover the threads with masking tape.
Great tuto, but Is there a risk to damage the thread by stucking/pinching it on the drill?
Yes. You have to be careful.
@@alloutbikes I'll wrap it in some layers of paper, that should do the trick. By the way, your videos is very badly referenced, it should come within the first 5 talking about cones. I'm glad I found it!
Sorry about the mix-up I was commenting to a totally different video where the person was sitting on the ground disassembling a hub, on the other hand the cone is wobbling a lot which could mean a slightly bent axle, pression made parts should in good condition should not wobble as like being shown.
You don't need to apologize for anything. I'm glad for comments and I'm happy to answer any questions.👍
That will alter the contact area
That is why it's best to replace it if you can. If you can't.........
I agree. I only address the roll track using compound then graphite finish. It does not matter what the rest looks like.
I agree and only use old salvage bearings to dress in the roll track with compound. Finishing with graphite. Only the roll track matters.
Do not leave any play in wheel after replacing the cones what play you leave will remain in the wheel, the suggestion that tightening the wheel onto the bike will remove a slight amount of play left is wrong as it is just not physically possible - go along to your local bike shop if you want confirmation!
I am a professional bike mechanic for the last 29 plus years. I have had some of the best professional riders walk through my doors. There are very few bike shops with staff with the experience I have. You are correct on certain hubs that the play remains however several quick release hubs with loose ball bearings will actually get tighter after locked in place. I explained this in the video however in editing the video sometimes information gets cut out. Have an open mind and try it out.
If you like I going to make a short today showing this principle.👍
@bikes I can only comment on the what you said but the same applies to the hollow type as well; for play to be removed as you suggest something has be give or in the case of the shaft deflect or bend for the the play to disappear, again its just not possible...I'm a retired Industrial Mechanical Production Engineer, all my bikes are set without play regardless of spindle type. How can the ball bearings get tighter once the cones and locknuts are correctly set and locked into position? Ball bearings have to be adjusted precisely your method will never accomplish a precision assembly and therefore makes no sense.
@@peteturner8493 Keep an eye on my videos I will show you. Again it's not on all hubs only the older quick release hubs but the axle itself compresses when you lock down the quick release. I will have a video soon.
@@alloutbikes Thanks but I will not need to see it, yes the folks / bearing assembly is being compressed but also in tension. A significant force would be needed to compress the axle as you suggest and its just not possible or part of the design to allow compression into the ball bearing races. Preload is independent of quick-release skewer clamping. It's established during specific bearing adjustment, not through wheel installation.
Quick-release skewer force does not significantly affect bearing preload. Its main purpose is secure wheel retention.
just buy a new set of cones/ cups, this is not good
I was just showing you what you could try if you couldn't get new cones. This is an old 90's Shimano Mtb hub you can't get the cones anymore. This hub also turned out great. It feels silky smooth. This was supposed to be a last resort. 👍
Wrong!! This is good.... Of course one must be a disciplined true technician who pays attention to detail and knows how to use the right tool in the right way for a precise job like dude, and myself I might add, and not be a butcher and do a hack job.
bad idea
No. It was an amazing idea because it worked. I put a thin spacer to compensate. The reason I did what I did is because it's an old Shimano cone and nobody had it. Of course it would have been better to replace it. I did what I had to do. It is as smooth as glass today. Thanks for your comment though.👍