HOW TO CHANGE YOUR OIL - ND MAZDA MIATA MX-5
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- Опубликовано: 29 окт 2024
- Our ND 2.0l was due for it's 10,000km Service, so I thought it would be good to show you everything I needed to do to change the oil on the car, including some of the little nuances and surprises that you may not be aware of for this car!
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Need help with something else on your MX-5 Miata? I have heaps of MX-5 guides & info here: ruclips.net/p/PLongVur9FFho3xHKJjbWPyYBQK0N9ADO5
I suggest replacing the drain plug crush washer-it's inexpensive and provides some assurance against leaks. Both the drain plug and the oil pan shield bolts should be tightened to 26 ft-lb of torque. If you're replacing the oil filter, the capacity of the ND's 2.0 L engine is 4.3 L of oil. The best way to ensure an accurate refill level and avoid overfilling if your new oil comes from a 5 L container is to transfer 0.8 L or so of that oil to another container. That way, you'll have exactly what you need for the refill in the large container.
deasystems good tips... thanks for watching :)
You absolutely could, but I don't think it's a huge concern, the moment you crank over the motor oil will be pumped everywhere. There are many cars out there that wouldn't permit you to fill the filter before installation, including the NA/NB MX-5 motors.
4L should be fine for the 2.0 engine. You will never be able to get all the old oil out. You don't want to put too much oil in.
@@petermartin9494 : I agree that overfilling would be a bad thing. I jack up the car to level or even slightly rear-high to ensure full oil drainage. I caution anyone doing the same to be *very* safe and use jack stands all around.
THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT TO KNOW - The oil drain plug is located on the right-front side of the oil pan; as such, you cannot drain all the oil if you jack-up the front end because the oil moves to the rear of the pan. After I completed draining the oil, I backed off the ramps and placed a small one quart container under the drain plug (super tight fit trying to reach under the car but it can be done). I removed the drain plug and almost 1/2 of a quart of oil came out! That is a significant amount of remaining oil that you DON'T want to leave in your car unless you simply don't care, but I certainly do! I refilled the engine with exactly 4.5 quarts of oil and the dip stick indicated that the oil level was spot-on. Had I not leveled the car to drain the remaining oil, I would have over filled the engine by almost a half a quart.
I agree, would usually not suggest changing your oil with only the front lifted up.
I learned this lesson the hard way by over filling
That's an odd place for Mazda to place it. I suppose you could jack up the rear of the car.
One of the coolest oil change videos I've ever seen!!! Might sound odd...Some might say it's only an oil change video. But love this guy's attitude and the accent is so cool!!! I have to definitely consider visiting Australia! It seems so nice Down Under there! :)
Thank you!
Suggestion. When you change the oil filter, before installing fill at least half full with oil, so there is no laps in the oil pressure when first cranking. With that air gap, you are placing the engine metal to metal wear until the oil pressure returns to normal. Getting ready for my first oil change on my new Miata.
Nice tip, thanks Mike!
That brown funnel clips onto the Penrite bottle so there aren't any spills.
Thanks!
Oh Yeah. And I like these cars sooo much!!! "A Little Pocket Rocket" Might need to get this next!
Yes. Get one. Or Two.
@@Bbeavis If I do, I'll keep you posted!
Hi mate, took my car (back) into Mazda and got them to put in the premium fully syn after they initially put in semi syn (it's my fault for apparently not specifying... lol). However, they put in 5w40... I know it meets the car manual specs, just a little concerned if the 40 is going to be too thick for my ND. It's my daily driver.
Hard to find these answers for our conditions considering every forum is more or less US-related.
Just wanted to pick your brain. Cheers.
I really cannot imagine it would be an issue, particularly if you took it to a dealer. That said, it does sound "thicker" than what the manual specs which is odd. If you live in a warmer climate, then it might make more sense. But if you're suffering a cold 3degC morning like I am at the moment, then perhaps not the best choice.
BEAVIS Motorsport
Thanks for replying. I live in Melbourne so I’m experiencing those cold mornings at the moment. The 5W should be ok even for our mornings I think? Just curious about the 40 for a small engine such as ours.
@@fanatical56 Wouldn't be too worried at all. Mazda state in the owners manual that up to 50 is acceptable.
@@fanatical56 0w flows better than 5w. Thus for those colder mornings you would want that 0w oil that the manual calls for. The higher number references the flow characteristics of oil at operating temps and the lower is the flow rate for a cold engine.
Thx alot man for this video .... Very informative, detailed and well presented video...keep em coming! Well done
Hey thanks Aghods! :)
I am like 2 years away from buying this car, why am I learning this already?
We all have hopes and dreams, I hope you achieve yours and get that ND someday soon!
BEAVIS Motorsport thanks! Would love some more maintenance videos btw! Spark plugs and brake fluid for example 😇
Ok cool I'll be sure to keep updating the channel as I do other maintenance on the car!
so did u end up getting the car?
Socialmente Inconveniente did you buy it yet?
Going thru my miata's first oil change. And fuckkkkkk. They sealed my shit factory tight!
Ah yeah I think I remember having the same issue.
I'm about to buy a 2020 MX-5 RF that is a one owner car with only 8000km on the clock. I've always done my own maintenance, but never owned a car this new. Would you recommend changing the gear and diff oil to remove any break in material suspended in the oil or is it good to go until the first specified interval?
Cheers
I doubt Mazda would require it according to their service intervals.
But it would be no harm to replace it as long as you use the right oils - being a little more generous with the oil change frequency is better than not changing it enough.
I know this is old but is it ok to jack up each side from the middle of the pinch weld? Does the jack bend the pinch weld? I don't like jacking from the subframe and if I jack on the indicators by each wheel then I can't place the stands there if the jack is in the way.
Should you do it, probably not, can you do it, yes if you are careful. A good safety net is to include some timber to spread the load of the jack across a larger area under the sill so it reduces the chance of damage. Obviously if you used a small jack on a weak part of the sill its more likely to bend or damage the metal.
at 1:02 - what size wrench are you using? That is: the OIL-SUMP plug or nut, thanks.
8mm allen
Thanks for this, planning to do my 30k service because it's a basic one and dealerships charge an arm and a leg so figure I'll do it myself and learn a few things along the way.
Quick question though, you're using OW-20 but the manufacturer recommends 5W-30? Also, how do you remove the service warning light on the dash afterwards? 🙂👍
I have a video to reset the service reminder:
ruclips.net/video/5rZBpfPkBOw/видео.html
Check your owners manual, and purchase the oil that matches their spec, it can vary from location to location.
0W-20 is used for emissions purposes.. 5W-30 is better.
@@TuckFinn831 Thanks, I went with 5-30
Depends on where you live apparently, but for sure 5W30 is cheaper… in Germany it’s 0W20 that is used by the official Mazda dealers, so I stick to that myself as well@@TuckFinn831
Pro tip: Always fill the oil filter with new oil before installing, and use ATF on the ring, not engine oil.
Why do you suggest ATF on the seal? I have not heard that before.
@@Bbeavis It is a better lubricant for the rubber seal, and will not dissipate/evaporate like oil will, so you will never have a problem removing the filter in the future.
Cool, thanks for that Brendan
My pleasure Andy!!
When jacking the car up, did you put the jack on the pinch weld?
Yes, so that I can get the jack stands on the designated jacking points, I find a safe secure spot to place the hydraulic jack roughly in the middle of the vehicles pinch weld. It is fine as long as you are careful.
Caveat....US Miata has 2 liter engine so I'll quantity and other things could vary to this vid....no? UK only has 1.5 in ND....I think? Motor in vid looks different than mine?
This car runs the 2.0 litre. I assume the UK market get both the 1.5 and the 2.0, but I do not know personally. I doubt there are many differences between the 2.0 engine offered in different markets, perhaps just some minor changes due to left vs right hand drive.
ensure old filter gasket is off,and fill filter with clean oil ,
Thanks MS, good tips. Curiously though, I don't think I've ever personally had a filter gasket stay on the car.
@@Bbeavis me neither in 50 years,but easy to lose an engine,and what a red face
that filter is kinda small... Smaller than my 1.7L VCT engine on my Puma and actually seems smaller than the oil filter i've put on my mk6 1.25 Fiesta when I did it's service in October
The plate is a pain too. Guess i'll buy a batteries wrenchgun to speed things up
It is the genuine Mazda filter, I guess with Mazda's size doesn't matter so much.
@@Bbeavis yep, also the room left after you place the shield doesn't seem to allow a big clearance. But they, mazda always know what they do. And blessed they are for not downsizing their engines. And making N/A
My fun car is a Ford puma 1.7 VCT, 125bhp
Short ratio gearbox, max power at 6300rpm
Extremely zippy, I love driving it. But the day I have to part ways with it... I want an RF MX-5
Hello! How tall are you? My height is 188 cm, but i don't know if I will be comfortable in the interior.
I am also 188cm.
@@Bbeavis Are you comfortable in the car? Have you made seat modifications?
@@causeyoudontneedtolookatme I find it tight, but it is my wifes car most of the time, I only drive it occasionally. I have removed some of the support under the seat to get it to sit a little lower in the bum.
Wow how much for that RZ sticker? Does it come with efamez?
1 million dollars. You only get the e-fame when your car is photographed parked next to a stanced red NA with white dots on the doors.
Sorry man for the dislike I can't handle the loud music, but the video is quite informative and has a great quality footage and commentary.
Sorry about that
I simply bring mine to a Mazda dealer and I watch TV while they perform the service.
Everyone has their preferences and priorities.
Some people cannot find the time or skill to perform an oil change.
Some people cannot afford a mechanic/dealer, or like to DIY and learn to do their oil change.
@@Bbeavis I spent many years changing my oil at home. I suddenly realized that it was a waste of time. You save very little money in the long term when you weigh all of the pros and cons.
I recommend 5w30 anything lower then that yull feel a lack of performance
Yeah fair enough Grizz, it can really depend on location and climate.
@@Bbeavis yeahh vegas be 110 out here
I'll listen to the dealership instead of someone on social media
@@ronaldmcgowan3697 If your dealership is doing your oil changes then you should be safe :)
@@ronaldmcgowan3697 cars have several oil grades on the userbook of what you can use
if 0w30 is an option on the allowed grades, i'd use that. better protection at warm environments
but then... new car, keep using factory grade. i do that with my daily, which will turn this 22nd january, 16 years since i've bought it
hi where can I purchase a mx5 oem oil filter?
Your local mazda dealer can help you out, or ebay. Search for part 1WPE14302
5w50 or 0w20
Thank you.
Why not 0W-20...
I used 0W-20 in the video. If you are unsure, check your owners manual as it will provide the correct spec oil for your location/temperature range.
At 0.59 second in- you don't tell us what socket your using on your ratchet! I believe it's an H8?! Do you think you'd of got that sum plug out easier with a 1/2" ratchet instead of a 3/8"s?!
Fair point, 8mm hex/allen. It was actually a 1/4" socket, so yeah, very small.
@@Bbeavis Cheers mate. I'm planning on doing the oil change on mine next week, so I needed to know socket sizes beforehand!
I know this video is almost 4 years old at this point so forgive my faux pas. K&N Wrench On oil filters will change your life and I've never had an issue with them on any skyactive engine :)
Not faux pas at all, thanks for sharing Matt.
mentality "$20 filter must be twice as good as I $8....because the people selling them say so"
The full context as mentioned in the video, is that there was some suggestion that the genuine mazda filters are encouraged to be used on the skyactive motors, as cheaper aftermarket filters may not be up to the standard. For the sake of a $20 part, I'm not risking my motor on a no-name-brand filter from the parts shop.
Really the oem filters aren’t much more. Maybe a dollar or two. And they’re the ones who built the car. They know best what parts should be on it and are designed for it
Great video ..."Yeshua/Jesus Saves"
Thanks Jdor :)
Amen brother 😀🙏
You sound exactly like Korg from the Thor movie. "Piss off ghost!"
Good old Korg. Best Thor Movie.
Over in the USA they say use 5w30 oil.
It varies depending on climate and owners are recommended to refer to their manual to find the oil that meets the manufacturers specifications.
Who are "they"?
depends your engine oil temperature,
if you driving under
3000 RPM 0W20,
4000 RPM 0W30,
5000 RPM 0W40
but like in a hot summer day you driving under 3000 RPM = 4000 RPM
if your area snow use 0W, otherwise use 5-10W
manual says 0w-20 for U.S model bru
My manual and the dealership here in Arkansas, USA says use 0W-20
that's a miniscule oil filter
I suppose it is... well it's only a small car :)
I guess you could say that, although I'm surprised because my TT's oil filter holds about 6 times that volume and that car is also quite small.
Brandon M. im not worried, it's a genuine mazda filter.
Brandon M. This motor is bullet proof.
1. Warm the engine up a few minutes to help the oil flow out.
2. If your really anal, use a cheaper oil to flush out any burnt oil and empty it. Can use it for a few oil changes as a flusher.
3. Open the top cap filter on top of engine. Helps oil flow out.
4. 0w is for europe freezing start up temps. I would double check with penrite for aussie conditions.
5. Decrease ya mess you left on the chassis with a bit of 2 dollar degreaser and hose off.
6. Run engine in after oul change a check oil mark again hot or cold as stated in manual.