Just wanted to mention a tip on deburring that my father gave me (he's a retired CNC programmer from aerospace industry): As a last step after your finish pass, define a chamfer on your edges and run a 45 degree bit around it real quick. It may add an extra 30 seconds of run-time per part, but it decreases secondary hand ops, decreasing total time per part. My dad always tried to find ways for his programs to make the operators job easier. I'm really enjoying the videos! Great job!
Wow!! Great video!! It's rare to find an expert on a given subject, who also possesses the skills of writing, shooting, and editing their own stuff!! Simply awesome!!!
Solid video man. If you're in a situation like that where you're coming close to cutting into your table, you can guarantee that you'll clear it by touching your tools off on the table, and then adjusting the values upward by the thickness of you stock and sacrificial plate (Or just program your depths from the bottom up). That will avoid the issue of touching off on stock that has a variable thickness.
NYC CNC hey mate whats the spacing on the holes in your bed? I'm planning on making a new bed (using extruded ally atm, not heavy/rigid enough). is there a minimum spacing that you'd not go below? cheers. edit have you tried hsmexpress? some great software, and free too if you've got SW or inventor...
Fantastic video. I really like it. As I am a beginner to machine, for me the most difficult part to figure it out is the fixturing. Happy new year Javi
one more thing- really excited to see more of the grinder. You give us all a sneek peek and then you leave us all hanging on the edge of our seats! I guess to be fair I haven't been to your webpage in awhile.
I want to know what your experience is with it, and how setup went for you. Also the price because I haven't been able to find a cost on one. I was surprised you had one.
OK here goes. In the comments here you asked for a bit of training. Pay attention, This part type is very common to parts we see in our shop every day. Fixturing: Get a 1" thick piece of Aluminum Jig plate the size of your machine table. Bolt it to the table. It is now your sacrificial base. Drill it, tap it, machine into it your extra .01 in Z. What ever. no more .03 stock under your work piece. It will last for years. Now, your Demo part: Align stock to table, long axis in X, Use 3 dowels to locate if doing more than one piece.. Just drill and ream into your 1" jig plate base, as above. Sequence: Drill all holes first. Pilot drill bores and 4 slots. ONLY one hole where the end mill enters the slots, not 2. Mill pockets, 2 bores and 4 slots. Add Chamfer cuts to those features. Machine Stop Here. Bolt part down to table thru the 2 bores, remove clamps. Machine outside profile.2 depth cuts stay .01 off finish. One finish cut full depth. Chamfer. Done. Rinse, repeat. My Reference: 40 years. hope this helps. MasterCam 3.0--------->>> X8. CREO. 3.0
Might have to recommend my boss to get one of them tables for the Fadal 4020 at work. Would really decrease setup times for some parts. Plus get a new Mori to replace it too :P Or just save costs and drill/tap the machine table.
Mid Day Machining because I seldom start before 11:00 AM and I try to be finished by 5:00 PM. I hope you're not offended when I make suggestions. I've only been NC and CNC machining since 1965. I program my PCNC 1100 Series II with GibbsCam.
Nice little machine that Tormach, we have one at work for small non pressision stuff. Biggest complain we have is the feed and the 5k rpm, would like to see it having like 10k rpm
Always interesting to see how someone else is working on his cnc mill. For me it is just a hobby and always learning when seeing this youtube movies. Great vid!
It all depends on your type of milling I would say that you are not making heavy cuts. For work like this I believe that everything will be fine. Just try not to suck the work piece up with heavy drilling. Also, your fast speed with the camera looks about the right speed if you are pushing it. Just remember that pressure sensitive tape likes to be pulled apart slowly over time. The key is to use 2 dowel pins for location and stability. Dowel pins are great and very accurate for re-machining if you need to through the piece back onto the table.....Try them..and give the tape a shot. I used the thicker tape when I was experimenting. MSC is were I used to shop at. Always ask for 10% off....
Very nice. I'm getting more familiar with the world of fabrication as I'm working on desktop pick and place machines for automated electronics assembly. Thanks!
Hey, sorry I just saw this comment. Yeah, go to tempoautomation.com Add yourself to our email list (we don't send to it very frequently) - we're about to send out an early promo video (doesn't show UI yet). Let me know if you don't receive it within the next few days. thanks! Jesse
31:00 in or so when you say you've started wearing gloves. I recommend checking out the Ansell Hyflex range of products. I don't work with any tools without wearing a pair (usually 11-801 which is a general purpose glove). They'll save your hand from burns, cuts, some punctures, and give you tons more grip to deal with fasteners and holding on to parts. They also prevent you from leaving fingerprints which is nice if you want to murder someone or delivery a part with no fingerprints on it looking all pristine. Basically they're like having a second layer of skin and I don't ever find them really getting in my way.
I was wondering: why is it needed to mill away the whole surface on the right instead of making a groove until you reached the depth of your base plate (basically cutting that section instead of milling that entire surface)? It's not a criticism (I love your work), just curious what the consideration was as I'm always interested in learning something new.
@13:30 place your hand opened flat out behind what you are trying to focus on so that your hand behind the object blocks the entire background in this case the background being the Tormach. It will then focus on the screw/pin
Great videos man! I love watching your videos, good info, good editing and quality. Very enjoyable and I always like seeing the different ways people have of making parts, and you show it from start to finish. The effort and passion you put into these videos is very apparent. Subscribed!
Nice video J! You set the bar kind of high to start off the year with this kind of video ;-) it is very much appreciated, specially the detail in which you described the process from drawing-to-part....thank you :-)
John, Another great video. Happy New Year! I never get tired of watching that mill run. You should be able to mill yourself up shop vac Hankus253 wants you to go buy, he must have stock...kidding. The picture quality was top notch, the auto focus seemed to move smooth & quickly when things weren't snapping into the picture frame. It looked like there were some hot spots from the new light maybe it was just sweat. All real good! I noticed a new US cleaner is it working well?
Hi, Would it not make sense to bandsaw the large chamfers on the RHS of the part, to reduce a lot of the roughing op? Doesn't need to be accurate, but would remove a lot of the stock from areas outside of the profile. I'm just thinking of this as I'm about to receive my Taig and am conscious of removing MC time from jobs I'll be working with. Appreciate the effort that you go to to document your progress and to try to ensure the quality of the videos is good. Keep up the good work. Great to hear that your MC shop is turning a profit. Cheers for your efforts, from over the pond :)
Honestly, there is no need to rough cut all that material. so much fast to simply cut the channel, just make the channel 1.5 times the cutter width to help with chatter and chip removal.
Thanks for a very informative video John! I have a small (_very_ small compared to this lovely machine :)) router (CNC-STEP 720/T) and I'm starting to mill aluminum on it (been using it for GFK/CFK and aeroplan etc). Your video was very informative about the principles for fixing stock and your thoughts about in which sequence to do it all! Very much appreciated !
John NYCCNC John, pure hobby! I'm an embedded systems designer (for 32+ years) and I do modelling in my free time (RC turbine jet models) and because of that I often need "odd stuff". Before I bought the CNC mill I could only spell "CNC", I did not know anything about it :) It is guys like you making these kinds of videos that helps me :)
Might sound trivial but permission in writing is needed. Same as a referral, get a release letter to use first. Might not matter today but... Anyway the video seems same quality as before, glad your life got a little easier with the autofocus. I never noticed a problem on my end;)
Nice part. I would have done it a little different. I would have drilled a 3/8 hole on the center if the 2 large cut outs, clamp it down there profile the outside, all holes and slots then add clamps to the outside and machine the large holes.
What I always do is mount my product on a plate of 10 mm thick (I believe a little thicker than your product) That way I can drill and tap through my product without hitting my bed It is pretty much the same way you do it only I use a thicker plate which is now full of holes :P That way you can finish your product on the cnc, only thing you have to do is deburn the bottom
Hi John, I love learning CNC and Arduino stuff from you! I am a pro cinematog, your 70d and light are looking good. You can try raising your light up a bit from camera level, you will get a nice shadow line under the jaw that will make u look nice and skinny :) The textbook position of your light would be 45 degrees up and 45 degrees to the side, bring it closer to the lens for more of a beauty or forgiving light. Keep up the good work! now go back and machine something :)
Nice video. Kind of curious, why wouldn't you choose to deburr your topside with the spotting tool, saves you having to deburr one side and its a simple step to program. Basically run a chamfered 0.003in edge on the cut upper edges. Usually we'll add a micro chamfer to the vertical square edges too so that they are deburred automatically.
How many of these did you have to make? ... Would you ever consider having the profile and holes water jetted and then you just do the finish work? I enjoy your vids and i hope to one day have my own home shop. I have a small mini mill and i just purchased an old southbend lathe.
Great demonstration. Why do you mill out the entire holes. Why not a ramp contour just around the edge. The middle piece will fly out at some point. but that's OK isn't it? We also have an ultrasonic cleaner here. We have found that on aluminum parts we get a kind of interference wave pattern on the parts. We have had to use an actuator to move the parts up and down slowly inside the bath. I would love to know how yours works out.
Steve5796 I am always working with stainless and tool steel. I very rarely use a drill. Ramp milling is the way to go! Faster rounder hole and better location.
I can't wait for TECHSHOP to come to my city ... but it's nice to watch you videos as I will be needing ideas on how to DIY my parts ... But I am curious! Can let us know how much did you charge to machine this piece including the aluminum ... thx
Thank you very much, its interesting video, but just like in many other tutor CNC videos on youtube, you miss something. For beginners the most helpful thing would be the precise description of tool selection, tool type, used material properties, cutting speed, feed .. so on. The technical details and parameters of chipping. The moving CNC is interesting but it doesn't give too much information, you can't learn from it.
Ever program from the top of the table up? Thats how our programmer would do it. And our boss would have a heart attack if we muched through that until it was gone, so he would do one pass five thousand above table and it would hold just enough so we can pop it out.
How many hours did it took you from 0 to finished part? as in, if I wanted to do something similar, at what range of time would I know Im proficient at this work or if I need to improve my skills. Thanks for the help, great video!
Nice video! You seem to know what you are doing. I'm a machinist my self and I'm wondering why you mill your outer edges in the direction you do. If you know what I mean? I'm from Denmark and I don't know the word in English. Normally you would go the other way around so that tool doesn't drack the machine along. You normally only go your way with the very last cut of the edges or if your machine is extremely stiff. Why is that?
I called this dude in Portland OR for a 2 feet by 4 feet, 3/4 inch aluminum plate he said 600$:) what is the cheapest you can get that size for and where? thanx
Great video series! Recently found them,. and trying to catch up! I'm currently working on my fourth year in the industry, but my shop has only manual machines. Trying to get the boss to splurge on a Tormach similar to the one that you use! Any idea if that little guy would tackle ar400 plate at all? Their website claims to have the power to mill titanium, so I'm sure Abrasion Resistant steel wouldn't be a problem, but our big radial drills have a lot of hiccups trying to break through... Interested in your thoughts on the subject!
+NYC CNC awesome! Do you plan to make any videos milling some harder materials?! It'd be awesome to have something I could show them! I'm excited to see the PCNC440 in action! Who would've thought there would be a CNC mill so affordable?! Looks like you guys had a blast in Germany! I would've been a kid in a candy store in that museum! Take care!
John NYCCNC I haven't worked with SprutCAM, but this is pretty easy and quick to do on most CAM softwares. Of course, you'll still have to deburr all the far side edges by hand. Another great video!
Hi mate, piece of advice that you will NOT look back... You NEED a vacuum table mate, no doubt about it! There is a before and an after you buy a vacuum table, that will save you SO MUCH time, get one now!!!!!!!!!!!!!
NYC CNC Well, the best ones around here (UK/Europe) are also on eBay, www.vakuumtisch.de/, they are great. They also have plenty of different models to choose from, I will now also buy their Pneumatik clamp PS-150-AL as it's a GREAT idea! Another good source (if not the same one) is vacuumtables.co.uk/. Hope this helps!
Kris TheTrader You also have cheaper option than the solid one, works very well too, depends if you cut sheet or blocks or material... www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Model-Vacuum-table-4530-SEAL2-suited-for-CNC-or-Milling-machine-/171667150999
Kris TheTrader The new seal2 model is great as instead of clamping it to the table on the sides, you simply clamp it straight into the table with a base and then fix the vacuum table on top of it. Great idea and it's more rigid than before!
Kris TheTrader As a machinist I wouldnt recommend a vacuum table in a case that you want to drill and cut holes in your piece. For engraving jobs or cutting profiles is nice but when you want a piece like that its a very bad idea.
GRPrimo As a commercial machinist I can also tell you that what you are saying is nonsense... Especially when it comes to a piece like the one on this video which is more like a plate than a thick bar... These days you cut holes with normal end mills, the vacuum table can be used with 1mm or even 2~3mm stock (rubber mat) which is more than enough to do holes... Of course you can't do tapping or similar drilling operations, obviosuly... but will save a lot of time and the end result will be better overall than clamping down like on this video, no doubt about it... Question to you GRPrimo, have you ever used a vacuum table yourself before??
I had not done too, but then one skilled person said, such a trifle as chamfers made on the machine shows your respect for customers, to workers, and show yourselves as professional. So now I always do!)
I think you're using your shear backwards the waste should be the part that drops while the part you want is on the measure side. I'm unsure and your method works just the other way seems simpler.
if there was a stop on the end it could have been taken off, worked on, then put back on in the same place, would have come back with in a .001 or less , could of went all there way around the outside perimeter with a slot within .005. cut it out, and been done a whole lot faster
Hello brother, im interested in making lot of shapes out of steel and other metals, please can you tell me what's this CNC machine model, and also all the equipments needed for other metalss. thanks a lot buddy from africa!
Hi, thanks for your video sharing in public. I'm very interest in milling machines Whats the pest quality machine that you recommend for beginner, how ever I'm very good with CNC routers.
Not sure if you'd wanna share that kind of information here publicly, but what kind of money would you charge for making such a part including the aluminum material? How much time would you typically spend making something like this? Thanks John.
I don't know how often you do projects or how big. Most metal suppliers will sell you the hole sheet ... BUT ... look in the scrap piles they may have left overs from other customers for what you need, if they don't! Try next week or so as they also recycled. At your local metal supplier
Found your video while looking to make 3D printer beds. The ones that come with the machines are not very accurate. I was looking for a way to make 320x310x3mm cast aluminum beds that won't deform under 220+F heat. Tolerances need to be under 0.005mm. Any suggestions?
My GibbsCam won't do anything your SprutCam won't do, it's just a lot easier. BUT, it's also a lot more expensive. I have a little over $18,000.00 in my GibbsCam.
Just wanted to mention a tip on deburring that my father gave me (he's a retired CNC programmer from aerospace industry): As a last step after your finish pass, define a chamfer on your edges and run a 45 degree bit around it real quick. It may add an extra 30 seconds of run-time per part, but it decreases secondary hand ops, decreasing total time per part. My dad always tried to find ways for his programs to make the operators job easier. I'm really enjoying the videos! Great job!
Amazing how far you have come since this video, great job!!! Very inspirational!!
Wow!! Great video!! It's rare to find an expert on a given subject, who also possesses the skills of writing, shooting, and editing their own stuff!!
Simply awesome!!!
Solid video man. If you're in a situation like that where you're coming close to cutting into your table, you can guarantee that you'll clear it by touching your tools off on the table, and then adjusting the values upward by the thickness of you stock and sacrificial plate (Or just program your depths from the bottom up). That will avoid the issue of touching off on stock that has a variable thickness.
beaut. cheers for the ideas and knowledge on clamping. for some reason I never really considered changing the clamps half way through a piece
NYC CNC hey mate whats the spacing on the holes in your bed? I'm planning on making a new bed (using extruded ally atm, not heavy/rigid enough). is there a minimum spacing that you'd not go below?
cheers.
edit
have you tried hsmexpress? some great software, and free too if you've got SW or inventor...
Fantastic video. I really like it. As I am a beginner to machine, for me the most difficult part to figure it out is the fixturing.
Happy new year
Javi
Looks like your next purchase should be a shop vac to help keep your work surface clean of chips.
one more thing- really excited to see more of the grinder. You give us all a sneek peek and then you leave us all hanging on the edge of our seats! I guess to be fair I haven't been to your webpage in awhile.
I want to know what your experience is with it, and how setup went for you. Also the price because I haven't been able to find a cost on one. I was surprised you had one.
OK here goes. In the comments here you asked for a bit of training. Pay attention, This part type is very common to parts we see in our shop every day.
Fixturing: Get a 1" thick piece of Aluminum Jig plate the size of your machine table. Bolt it to the table. It is now your sacrificial base. Drill it, tap it, machine into it your extra .01 in Z. What ever. no more .03 stock under your work piece. It will last for years.
Now, your Demo part: Align stock to table, long axis in X, Use 3 dowels to locate if doing more than one piece.. Just drill and ream into your 1" jig plate base, as above.
Sequence: Drill all holes first. Pilot drill bores and 4 slots. ONLY one hole where the end mill enters the slots, not 2. Mill pockets, 2 bores and 4 slots. Add Chamfer cuts to those features. Machine Stop Here.
Bolt part down to table thru the 2 bores, remove clamps. Machine outside profile.2 depth cuts stay .01 off finish. One finish cut full depth. Chamfer. Done.
Rinse, repeat.
My Reference: 40 years. hope this helps. MasterCam 3.0--------->>> X8. CREO. 3.0
What he said.
great job brother. loved the way and simplicity, you milled the object.
Might have to recommend my boss to get one of them tables for the Fadal 4020 at work. Would really decrease setup times for some parts. Plus get a new Mori to replace it too :P Or just save costs and drill/tap the machine table.
Mid Day Machining because I seldom start before 11:00 AM and I try to be finished by 5:00 PM.
I hope you're not offended when I make suggestions. I've only been NC and CNC machining since 1965.
I program my PCNC 1100 Series II with GibbsCam.
Depending on the bow in that plate looks like a perfect for for a vacuum table. Just leave .005 at the bottom and then snap the left over pieces off.
Nice little machine that Tormach, we have one at work for small non pressision stuff. Biggest complain we have is the feed and the 5k rpm, would like to see it having like 10k rpm
Nice work can't get any better.
Always interesting to see how someone else is working on his cnc mill. For me it is just a hobby and always learning when seeing this youtube movies. Great vid!
It all depends on your type of milling I would say that you are not making heavy cuts. For work like this I believe that everything will be fine. Just try not to suck the work piece up with heavy drilling. Also, your fast speed with the camera looks about the right speed if you are pushing it. Just remember that pressure sensitive tape likes to be pulled apart slowly over time. The key is to use 2 dowel pins for location and stability. Dowel pins are great and very accurate for re-machining if you need to through the piece back onto the table.....Try them..and give the tape a shot. I used the thicker tape when I was experimenting. MSC is were I used to shop at. Always ask for 10% off....
I appreciate that your drill press has zero wobble. Our farm drill press does not have that feature. 😁
I saw you messing with the cleanup there a bit. For what it's worth I use a shop vac. Works great and keeps the chips from getting everywhere.
Great work I really like the new camera shoots very clearly
Very nice. I'm getting more familiar with the world of fabrication as I'm working on desktop pick and place machines for automated electronics assembly. Thanks!
Hey, sorry I just saw this comment.
Yeah, go to tempoautomation.com
Add yourself to our email list (we don't send to it very frequently) - we're about to send out an early promo video (doesn't show UI yet). Let me know if you don't receive it within the next few days.
thanks!
Jesse
Awesome video as always. I enjoyed your thorough explanation of your plan of action in SprutCam.
31:00 in or so when you say you've started wearing gloves. I recommend checking out the Ansell Hyflex range of products. I don't work with any tools without wearing a pair (usually 11-801 which is a general purpose glove). They'll save your hand from burns, cuts, some punctures, and give you tons more grip to deal with fasteners and holding on to parts. They also prevent you from leaving fingerprints which is nice if you want to murder someone or delivery a part with no fingerprints on it looking all pristine. Basically they're like having a second layer of skin and I don't ever find them really getting in my way.
I was wondering: why is it needed to mill away the whole surface on the right instead of making a groove until you reached the depth of your base plate (basically cutting that section instead of milling that entire surface)? It's not a criticism (I love your work), just curious what the consideration was as I'm always interested in learning something new.
It's a great concept of cnc operation. Thanks
What cam software are you using?
@13:30 place your hand opened flat out behind what you are trying to focus on so that your hand behind the object blocks the entire background in this case the background being the Tormach. It will then focus on the screw/pin
Great videos man! I love watching your videos, good info, good editing and quality. Very enjoyable and I always like seeing the different ways people have of making parts, and you show it from start to finish. The effort and passion you put into these videos is very apparent. Subscribed!
Tip: best lubricant for machining Aluminum is kerosine or diesel helps heaps with chip removal etc.
Thank you for making the video! Just starting CNC, need all the instruction I can get.
Great machining performance! Please keep posting.
Nice video J!
You set the bar kind of high to start off the year with this kind of video ;-) it is very much appreciated, specially the detail in which you described the process from drawing-to-part....thank you :-)
John, Another great video. Happy New Year! I never get tired of watching that mill run. You should be able to mill yourself up shop vac Hankus253 wants you to go buy, he must have stock...kidding. The picture quality was top notch, the auto focus seemed to move smooth & quickly when things weren't snapping into the picture frame. It looked like there were some hot spots from the new light maybe it was just sweat. All real good! I noticed a new US cleaner is it working well?
nice. Well presented. Professional.
Hi,
Would it not make sense to bandsaw the large chamfers on the RHS of the part, to reduce a lot of the roughing op? Doesn't need to be accurate, but would remove a lot of the stock from areas outside of the profile.
I'm just thinking of this as I'm about to receive my Taig and am conscious of removing MC time from jobs I'll be working with.
Appreciate the effort that you go to to document your progress and to try to ensure the quality of the videos is good. Keep up the good work. Great to hear that your MC shop is turning a profit. Cheers for your efforts, from over the pond :)
Honestly, there is no need to rough cut all that material. so much fast to simply cut the channel, just make the channel 1.5 times the cutter width to help with chatter and chip removal.
Thanks for a very informative video John!
I have a small (_very_ small compared to this lovely machine :)) router (CNC-STEP 720/T) and I'm starting to mill aluminum on it (been using it for GFK/CFK and aeroplan etc). Your video was very informative about the principles for fixing stock and your thoughts about in which sequence to do it all! Very much appreciated !
John NYCCNC
John, pure hobby! I'm an embedded systems designer (for 32+ years) and I do modelling in my free time (RC turbine jet models) and because of that I often need "odd stuff". Before I bought the CNC mill I could only spell "CNC", I did not know anything about it :) It is guys like you making these kinds of videos that helps me :)
Might sound trivial but permission in writing is needed. Same as a referral, get a release letter to use first. Might not matter today but...
Anyway the video seems same quality as before, glad your life got a little easier with the autofocus. I never noticed a problem on my end;)
I flinched every time you wiped that deck with your hands.
Nice part. I would have done it a little different. I would have drilled a 3/8 hole on the center if the 2 large cut outs, clamp it down there profile the outside, all holes and slots then add clamps to the outside and machine the large holes.
What I always do is mount my product on a plate of 10 mm thick (I believe a little thicker than your product)
That way I can drill and tap through my product without hitting my bed
It is pretty much the same way you do it only I use a thicker plate which is now full of holes :P
That way you can finish your product on the cnc, only thing you have to do is deburn the bottom
John, can you do a video on the ways you use your 3d taster please?
Very good!
Hi John, I love learning CNC and Arduino stuff from you! I am a pro cinematog, your 70d and light are looking good. You can try raising your light up a bit from camera level, you will get a nice shadow line under the jaw that will make u look nice and skinny :) The textbook position of your light would be 45 degrees up and 45 degrees to the side, bring it closer to the lens for more of a beauty or forgiving light. Keep up the good work! now go back and machine something :)
John NYCCNC No worries, I really appreciate the machining help you share with me!
Super machine !
Nice video and Happy new year to you too. I would have spot drilled the holes on the cnc mill to get some extra precision.
John NYCCNC
Sry I didn't noticed it
So are you pleased with the tormach performance? If you had to do it again would you buy it or would you buy something else.
Nice video. Kind of curious, why wouldn't you choose to deburr your topside with the spotting tool, saves you having to deburr one side and its a simple step to program. Basically run a chamfered 0.003in edge on the cut upper edges. Usually we'll add a micro chamfer to the vertical square edges too so that they are deburred automatically.
Wow you've come a long way.
How many of these did you have to make? ... Would you ever consider having the profile and holes water jetted and then you just do the finish work? I enjoy your vids and i hope to one day have my own home shop. I have a small mini mill and i just purchased an old southbend lathe.
Dill a 3/16 dowel pin hole in the center of each end......ream them and then do the same into your table...
Great demonstration. Why do you mill out the entire holes. Why not a ramp contour just around the edge. The middle piece will fly out at some point. but that's OK isn't it?
We also have an ultrasonic cleaner here. We have found that on aluminum parts we get a kind of interference wave pattern on the parts. We have had to use an actuator to move the parts up and down slowly inside the bath. I would love to know how yours works out.
Humm great idea. I have a lot of the same equipment in my shop. (Tormach) And I really appreciate your videos.
Very nice video
Thanks for this awesome lesson
HOW DO YOU SURE YOUR SURFACE IS COMPLETELY PARALLEL?. IS JUST A QUESTION BECAUSE I DONT SEE THAT YOU MACHINED THE SURFACE. THANKS AND GREAT JOB!.
Excellent. Thanks.
R u just using air as a coolant or is 1 of those air & the other one a mister ??? Also thanks for the videos always enjoy them
Nice vid. Kinda looking at the pcnc mill to buy.
looked good, ever try ramping cutter instead of drilling
Steve5796 I am always working with stainless and tool steel. I very rarely use a drill. Ramp milling is the way to go! Faster rounder hole and better location.
I can't wait for TECHSHOP to come to my city ... but it's nice to watch you videos as I will be needing ideas on how to DIY my parts ...
But I am curious! Can let us know how much did you charge to machine this piece including the aluminum ... thx
Thank you very much, its interesting video, but just like in many other tutor CNC videos on youtube, you miss something.
For beginners the most helpful thing would be the precise description of tool selection, tool type, used material properties, cutting speed, feed .. so on. The technical details and parameters of chipping.
The moving CNC is interesting but it doesn't give too much information, you can't learn from it.
Ever program from the top of the table up? Thats how our programmer would do it. And our boss would have a heart attack if we muched through that until it was gone, so he would do one pass five thousand above table and it would hold just enough so we can pop it out.
Thank you for this very helpful video!
How many hours did it took you from 0 to finished part? as in, if I wanted to do something similar, at what range of time would I know Im proficient at this work or if I need to improve my skills. Thanks for the help, great video!
Hi, great video. I would like to know if you can make some aluminum pieces and ship to Brazil. Thanks
Blahaha
excellent video, i am so excited cause i will be buying one in the future...if you don't mind me asking, what country are these machines made in?
Solid video, do you know where I could go in order to get aluminium like that?
I love Your videos bro. keep up the good work!
I have had very good luck with 3M double sided tape for items like this.
How were you able to do that super quick tool change?!
thanks very interesting pommy john
Nice video! You seem to know what you are doing. I'm a machinist my self and I'm wondering why you mill your outer edges in the direction you do. If you know what I mean? I'm from Denmark and I don't know the word in English. Normally you would go the other way around so that tool doesn't drack the machine along. You normally only go your way with the very last cut of the edges or if your machine is extremely stiff. Why is that?
It's called conventional milling and climb milling. A cnc machine has no backlash, so you can climb mill with it
I called this dude in Portland OR for a 2 feet by 4 feet, 3/4 inch aluminum plate
he said 600$:)
what is the cheapest you can get that size for and where?
thanx
It is roughly 30 Kg which should cost roughly 150$ if you buy 100Kg in bulk
thanks for the video. nice work.
Also great video keep them up
Great video series! Recently found them,. and trying to catch up! I'm currently working on my fourth year in the industry, but my shop has only manual machines. Trying to get the boss to splurge on a Tormach similar to the one that you use! Any idea if that little guy would tackle ar400 plate at all? Their website claims to have the power to mill titanium, so I'm sure Abrasion Resistant steel wouldn't be a problem, but our big radial drills have a lot of hiccups trying to break through... Interested in your thoughts on the subject!
+NYC CNC awesome! Do you plan to make any videos milling some harder materials?! It'd be awesome to have something I could show them! I'm excited to see the PCNC440 in action! Who would've thought there would be a CNC mill so affordable?!
Looks like you guys had a blast in Germany! I would've been a kid in a candy store in that museum!
Take care!
To save time, why not add a chamfer mill pass in CAM around the edges to deburr it for you?
John NYCCNC I haven't worked with SprutCAM, but this is pretty easy and quick to do on most CAM softwares. Of course, you'll still have to deburr all the far side edges by hand. Another great video!
Good video! Why did you drill the holes, why not cnc them too? Isn't cnc more accurate?
+NYC CNC don't you love when you explain something IN the video and then someone asks you what you just explained? lol.
nice work, thanks
Hi mate, piece of advice that you will NOT look back... You NEED a vacuum table mate, no doubt about it! There is a before and an after you buy a vacuum table, that will save you SO MUCH time, get one now!!!!!!!!!!!!!
NYC CNC Well, the best ones around here (UK/Europe) are also on eBay, www.vakuumtisch.de/, they are great. They also have plenty of different models to choose from, I will now also buy their Pneumatik clamp PS-150-AL as it's a GREAT idea! Another good source (if not the same one) is vacuumtables.co.uk/. Hope this helps!
Kris TheTrader You also have cheaper option than the solid one, works very well too, depends if you cut sheet or blocks or material... www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Model-Vacuum-table-4530-SEAL2-suited-for-CNC-or-Milling-machine-/171667150999
Kris TheTrader The new seal2 model is great as instead of clamping it to the table on the sides, you simply clamp it straight into the table with a base and then fix the vacuum table on top of it. Great idea and it's more rigid than before!
Kris TheTrader As a machinist I wouldnt recommend a vacuum table in a case that you want to drill and cut holes in your piece. For engraving jobs or cutting profiles is nice but when you want a piece like that its a very bad idea.
GRPrimo As a commercial machinist I can also tell you that what you are saying is nonsense... Especially when it comes to a piece like the one on this video which is more like a plate than a thick bar... These days you cut holes with normal end mills, the vacuum table can be used with 1mm or even 2~3mm stock (rubber mat) which is more than enough to do holes... Of course you can't do tapping or similar drilling operations, obviosuly... but will save a lot of time and the end result will be better overall than clamping down like on this video, no doubt about it... Question to you GRPrimo, have you ever used a vacuum table yourself before??
Great video, thanks man, appreciate it!
Why you did not program the chamfer? it makes the item more attractive in appearance.
I had not done too, but then one skilled person said, such a trifle as chamfers made on the machine shows your respect for customers, to workers, and show yourselves as professional. So now I always do!)
Why didn't you use the Torchmate to rough the outside first? I guess it doesn't save that much time on a one off part?
You should do a video on plasma cutting alu, I've never done it either.
I think you're using your shear backwards the waste should be the part that drops while the part you want is on the measure side. I'm unsure and your method works just the other way seems simpler.
sweet little shear! what is it?
if there was a stop on the end it could have been taken off, worked on, then put back on in the same place, would have come back with in a .001 or less , could of went all there way around the outside perimeter with a slot within .005. cut it out, and been done a whole lot faster
Hello brother, im interested in making lot of shapes out of steel and other metals, please can you tell me what's this CNC machine model, and also all the equipments needed for other metalss. thanks a lot buddy from africa!
Hi, thanks for your video sharing in public. I'm very interest in milling machines Whats the pest quality machine that you recommend for beginner, how ever I'm very good with CNC routers.
Hey I'm thinking of going back to school for cnc and investing in a cnc
machine and looking for a mom and pop shop to work with. What do u think?
nice job!
suscribed! how is runs that machine so far? about rigidity and cutting steel? Regards from Spain :)
nice!!! i was looking for get a G0704 then conver it to cnc but i will wait more time to save money and buy a Tormach 1100!! thanks for info. :)
Easy way around putting a clamp in the middle is use a reverse helix endmill
Are you able to ship the Tormach PCNC 1100 to the UK? Looking for a good quality CNC mill!
Not sure if you'd wanna share that kind of information here publicly, but what kind of money would you charge for making such a part including the aluminum material? How much time would you typically spend making something like this? Thanks John.
Looking forward to it, thanks man! :)
What do you use as coolant for the cut? It seems sometimes the coolant is on, other times it's off... are you dry milling at all?
Do you have any videos that show touch of probe on CNC Lathes?
WOW Great video. Where is a good place in the US to buy 1/2" X 12" x 12" aluminum plate
I don't know how often you do projects or how big.
Most metal suppliers will sell you the hole sheet ... BUT ... look in the scrap piles they may have left overs from other customers for what you need, if they don't! Try next week or so as they also recycled. At your local metal supplier
You can find all kinds of stuff on eBay if you just need small bits of stock.
Found your video while looking to make 3D printer beds. The ones that come with the machines are not very accurate.
I was looking for a way to make 320x310x3mm cast aluminum beds that won't deform under 220+F heat. Tolerances need to be under 0.005mm. Any suggestions?
How much does a part this size cost to make?
If you don't mind my asking what doe that CNC machine cost?
at 22:25 in this video you say the tooling plate is hardened? did you mean Pre-hardened or did you get it hardened ?
Cool I have one on order :)
My GibbsCam won't do anything your SprutCam won't do, it's just a lot easier. BUT, it's also a lot more expensive. I have a little over $18,000.00 in my GibbsCam.