Touch The Gas, And BAM, She Goes!
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- Getting your carbureted engine to snap off idle like an injected one, can be a simple matter of fine tuning the accelerator pump. Here are the basics you need to know on both Holley and Edelbrock style carbs.
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I've said it before and I'll say it 100 times yet....I wish I had these videos when I was 16.
Yep! Same here. Now I've learned the basics over time, lol. I still watch these though. Because not only do I learn a new thing here or there, but it also reminds me of things I forgot. Because as of late I havent had to tinker as much with the carbs because of the newer fuel injection in the driveway. Problem is, I still have my old stuff I like to play with. But since playing with tham has become rarer. I forget a lot of the little things.
No kidding. We had no such resources then.
Shit, I wish I had been allowed to drive at 16.....
@@tarstarkusz when I started driving, I wasn't "allowed". I did it because I had to. It came with the territory, it was part of my job. So was fixing the old things I drove.
@@Z_732 I grew up in one of the worst car insurance markets in the US. Having a licensed 16yo would have driven my parents' policy through the roof.
I'm 61 years old and 21 at heart. You are one of the top guys on the planet. You pass on your knowledge in a brilliant manner that is so down to earth. I have spent most of my life working on my own cars and motorcycles. I wish I could meet you and Cathy I'm person. What cool people you are. Good luck with the new work shop wish I could help you guys move shop. Hemi, Maori for Jim .New Zealand / Tasmania.
"remember, the middle hole is the happiest, you've got to play with it" Classic UTG
I would be in heaven if the wife would say that just once.
That’s what she said
This is Classic .😜🤪😂
Is that the "third input?"
Wo0o0o0o
This shit used to take years to learn. Guys who knew didn't want to be bothered by stupid kids lol. My inner child thanks you
All they had to do was read the Holley book! 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
I can’t believe RUclips censored the closed captioning when talking about timing being “retarded” vs advanced. It’s a technical and medical term not a “bad” word.
with all the craziness in the world, it's hard not to believe anything.
it's a silly world we live in..... "we" need to cancel the cancel culture.....there are more of us then the cry babies (a lot more....we are just quiet right now )
@@oldpolak5203 this generation grew up on a book called "if you give a mouse a Cookie" where this little mouse asks this kid for one item and continues to ask for more and more until that child gets fed up.
I'm 27, my parents are immigrants from communist countries my father of which barely escaped alive. I grew up as an outsider watching this culture Fall apart, and hearing the commentary of my dad before things got to the point of him fleeing. it's nothing extraordinary, it's not impossible that the US will go under if allowed to continue its course.
we are in strange times, and although Tony made a video saying they won't take racing... they're trying to take kids parents and swap their genders (yet raise the smoking age) which is 10x more crazy.
car guys are very simple, we like facts, input and output. no other machine can be maintained by an individual, and take them across a continent. Car guys love freedom and individuality, honestly it's the only thing that keeps some guys from lashing out and becoming total dick heads in society.
At the same time do not be discouraged, because Communists have used that as propaganda time and time again do not be discouraged, do not give up. talk with your friends, with similar ideas and sit in on a city hall and just troll the hell out of your retarded local politician they may start to get the idea when a lot of people start coming in commenting or even interrupting them when they should be interrupted.
I can easily beleive it. No-no words used to be an Orwellian joke. Welcome to the new, happier world.
Didn't know RUclips had closed captions? But not surprised. I understand what is being said here so I would never have looked for it. I don't have time to waste looking for something like that when I am actually trying to learn something. Now I have to figure out why I just wasted time writing this and not reading a post that applies to a carburetor.
Great Content.
I had had great success with Holley Double-Pumpers (ie; 750-850) on my mild built 440s. I never really liked Carter/Edelbrock -
In 1984 I had a neighbor like UT. - Miss that valuable asset ... (I guess that I'm now the 54 year old neighborhood asset ... too bad no kids are playing with Cars these days)
Tuner Boyz are!
I can relate.
@@glenholmgren1218 Boyz.... I bet you be all coo an sheet..... Men don't call themselves boys.
@@glenholmgren1218Tuner Boyz haha! Motherfuckers can't tune shit but a laptop.
I'm extremely lucky to grow up at a family car dealership and watching old timers (old now) show me tricks from carburetors to auto body and painting. Being 31 yrs old and knowing this old school stuff isn't in those ASE tests. Having that upper hand against a young ASE certified tech is priceless. I love that I can still learn new things from others like you.
Make sure your brake booster isn’t leaking vacuum from a bad diaphragm. A lot of guys think they’re brakes suck because that monster cam they just put in doesn’t make enough vacuum, when their booster has been leaking for years and the engine in stock form just simply made enough vacuum to mask the problem.
Use manual brakes. Much better.
I was watching a video on webber carburators, And I thought the dude that was telling you how to make them operate correctly said ( Don't use that stop screw for tuning purposes! It's only purposes is to keep the throttle blades from coming back and connecting with the bore wall inside and causing it to scare or damage it when the throttle is released real quick as you displayed for us here on your video! And I thought that was a very good way to describe the function that screw that we all have turned the hell out of when we were rookies still learning! But I thought of all the grief that would have saved me through the years had someone had explained that as simple as he did! In regular man words ( Just crack it open enough to keep it from contacting the wall of the bore inside, And then don't f#%k with it anymore then that or shits gonna start going down hill real fast from there on trying to get the thing to perform correctly! 🤔
This solved my edelbrock and holly carb problems this information is priceless thankyou for teaching my generation how things work
Thanks for the tips! This will help with my cj build.
Thank you for taking your time to pass your experience to others much appreciate and much respect
You’re the best uncle Tony! Watched three or four accelerator pump videos before I finally got to yours and now I understand it 😀
My 71 New Yorker has a big stumble with a Carter! Thanks now I understand it better!
I was seriously just thinking about this issue in my 318 Barracuda.
4:12 Life lessons. The middle hole is the happiest... You gotta play with it.
Just avoid that butthole....
Another great video Uncle Tony.
I love it when Uncle Tony talks breaker-points and accelerator pumps. Today, everyone's thinking and reasoning abilities are marinating in so much out-of-touch and abstract digital technology that no one even recognizes any longer which way is actually "up".
Thanks for sharing . Ure very right it's better to adjust pumps and the little cam before changing Jets or nozzles
Basic rock solid info , cheers. I would always go to look for an air leak causing bog or hesitation. You know like worn shaft bushes or simply loose hold down nuts etc. I have a Holley 780 on my 351c which i had overhauled at a carby shop (many years ago) but yeah couldnt loose the bog. Thanks Tony looks like all it was was that adjustment gap on the arm. Cheers , Thankyou.
Great video, UT! I’ve tried my hand at carb adjustment many times over the years, with spotty success. This gives me a better understanding of the mechanism that I’m sure will help me going forward. Thanks for what you do.
Why didn't you mention the Rochester 4 bbl carbs . Back in the day I found for a completely stock setup ( must be a carb with good base plate and all criteria you mentioned) the Rochester was easy to set up and much cheaper than new stuff. Kicked but out of a few people who had their fancy 750 carbs on stock setups . Secondary's super easy to fine tune to what you wanted. Not saying Rochester was superior just far more economic and easier to tune. Only problem I found was the poor longevity of the base plate. A lot more to it than that but that was my take. Love your videos and excellent information. ❤
Thank you UT, your wealth of knowledge is extreme and thanks for sharing
Tony, you need to check out the Thompson Performance Powerblast Plate. I know it sounds hokey but just watch it in action on RUclips. It is essentially a little brass plate that installs above the pump squirters. It converts the pump shot from a stream to a fine spray for much better atomization. One look and you'll be a believer.
If I ever can find another Dart. I will apply all of your techniques to it
I agree with checklist first. Plugs and wires need to be good before condemning carb. Had a bad wire that caused a bog on the hit. Thought carb but found wire.
Squirters can make a big difference when you tailor them to the pump cam .Both need to work in concert to get maximum response .
Glad you mentioned initial timing, lots of people don't realize how much that affects off-idle throttle response. If you have a stumble and your initial timing is off you'll be pissing in the wind trying to adjust the carb to fix it.
I have 24 initial and 38 total, no Vac advance.
@@jakefriesenjake if you do any street driving I highly recommend getting vacuum advance hooked up. If it's set up right you'll gain noticeable fuel economy and your engine will last longer with no bad effects at all. It takes some time but is definitely worth it since it's basically free. I know there are videos on how to do it right, if not from UTG I know for sure some other channels.
@@mopartron3030 agree. not enough initial can make it run hot and not as responsive as it should be
Back in the day I had two dual divorce-choke Q-jets, 795 cfm. I'd run one on the car, keep one in reserve, and every year I'd send the 'old' one to my Rochetser guy for a freshen up and put the 'new' one on the manifold. Hard to beleive what just a year of regular use did the carb. Today...I think I'm gonna do the same but with a DI head, lol
Great Video Tony! Great job explaining the details.
Darn, kids always screwin' around 😁😂🤣 K.I.S.S. don't over think it! I needed that refresher! THNX!
Uncle Tony I need your help.
Young guy here.
I know stock Chevy 350s are happy with 650 CFM carburetors. That being said I have a 750 Edelbrock 1411 on my non bored over 350 that is far from stock.
It has an Edelbrock dual-plane intake, A lopey 510/520 lift cam (2200-5800 RPM) and aftermarket vortec heads that I have ported and Polished myself.
Whenever I tell people I have a 750 CFM on a 350 they freak out saying my carburetor is too big but to me it doesn't feel like it's too big. When I stomp on the gas it does not bog it just goes, when I read my spark plugs either after daily driving it for a while or driving it hard the spark plugs look clean with light amount of soot around the ring at the end of the threads (in other words they look fine to me) and the vehicle idles fine. If this will tell you anything I have a vacuum reading between 15 and 16 inHg. I have not changed Jets metering rods or Springs.
When I tell people (including shop owners) that the engine runs fine. they say oh well it's still too big you're probably losing to tuneability or losing power at higher rpms.
So what I'm asking is in your opinion is my carburetor too big, if not what defense can I use to make these people stop freaking out and what are the signs that a carburetor is too big?
I have been playing with pump cams trying to get my 340 to launch off of the 2 step. I was the guy neglecting the adjustment bolt on jet change untill now.
Thank you UTG
Great info as always! I enjoy the carburetor tech tips for street/strip. So many want to convert to EFI. I still like a carb on these cars. I just don’t know all the tricks. Thanks for sharing the carb stuff!
Jgmtawgmtkwtgmt
Carb talk, with Uncle Tony's Shut up and listen Corner..
Oi oi oi
Right as we are having a BBD discussion
Well, maybe I can get my old Big 10 to finally get up and go!
That's what she keeps telling me. wasn't sure what she ment, thanks, now I know. lol
What’s the deciding factor in going from a 30cc to 50cc pump accelerator?
I try to remember as I'm reinstalling a Holley float bowl to rotate the bowl by hand clockwise as I tighten the bolts so the bowl is tweaked the same way each time to save readjusting the accelerator pump arm. Its a little thing but every little trick helps
Good advise dude you saved me money!
When I had bog on acceleration The first thing I went to is the fuel pump. 9 times out of 10 that was the problem. I found the you have to start small and then go from there. But that is just me.
Back in 88 a bud got a 67 GTO with a ra4 in it , and it ran good but he had his girlfriends pop drive it.
(musclecar guru of the hood)
He comes back and said rig a fuel pressure gauge on it , it feels flat up top.
So we did.
Sonofabitch it was dropping off over 3000rpms.
An upgraded pump to hold the pressure up, and it felt like another 40hp.
I have a p-80 I don’t know the size it’s on a 1956 Ford fairlane with a 272 y block 3 speed top loader I’m thinking it’s to big stays running in idle but when I pull off its die down or burn tire then die back down
great info guys !
Only look down that carb for a second would hate for it to backfire in someones face 🤣
I used a thompson power blast plate on a holley fixed my hesitation
This is the dude you spend with Saturday night in your garage with a 12 pack and a grill.
Thank you for the knowledge.
Got a holley on my 66 chevy.
Know what to look for
Love these simple tips that make such a huge difference. There are less and less people to share this knowledge. And for young people that have experience with new gen programmable cars..... The combination of any 5 or 6 of these little tips from Uncle Tony. ( sounds weird even to type. I'm at least as old as Tony lol ) , would make a full second or more difference at the end of the run. And huge advantage in roll on, in the street say. It would be the rough equivalent of that first stage one tune on an otherwise completely stock new vehicle. As in... no amount of money you spend after that will ever make as much of a difference.
My cousin was a motorcycle mechanic with a fondness for British and Italian bikes, as well as cars.. And had a 455 Buick that would snap to redline like a 340 dodge smallblock. Was amusing as hell...
Thank you for your video!! Moving the armature screw worked perfectly!!
Thanks Tony. Good info. Did'nt think of checking clearance after r and r of fuel bowl.
Tony Mopar or no car
I need to address this issue on the 361 in my d600. Pretty sure it just has failed accelerator pumps from sitting most all the time. That thing idles great but goes dead when you crack the throttle blades until it gets really warmed up.
You should try to find one of those old school predator carburetors like the one bigfoot ran on his truck, them things have some of the best throttle response.
Ha! Really?
@@johnsheetz6639 yeah, check out some videos of them, the way they are designed makes them incredibly snappy but they are rare and pretty expensive and are difficult to find parts for but they are worth the trouble.
@@briang4470 i will and i dont doubt
Idk if they had an idle circuit?
Great instructional Video UT👏👍👌🏁🗽🇺🇸💯✌️✝️ Priceless hard learned info.
Great info. 👍
Thank you tony!!! ;)
Thanks Uncle Tony! I’m going to have to try this on my 58 Chrysler Hemi. It’s got a little bog when I whack the throttle!
I never really considered the slop in the accelerator pump arm changing due to the float bowl screw tolerances.
I put a tad of pressure on it, but still check if I'm not over extending the diaphragm. I should be good 🙄🙄
I had a 79 coupe deville when i first watched this video.. i somehow ended up going down the dreaded APT adjustment rabbit hole when youre dealing with a Q-jet. It was aweful lol made my own tool out of metal brake line to reach in there and make adjustments. Found a big empty parkinglot and made some clouds hahahaha
love the hole in the middle!!! but it can get you in a heap of trouble, thanks Uncle Tony!!!
Men like this are few very well explained I appreciate you being clear and direct
hey thanks mr.tony.🌚👍.
I have the most stupidest question...Are both jets supposed to work at the same time? For a 2 bbl? Or is one a idle jet and the other a main jet.
I always laugh when Tony says when you ever you start to screw around lol
ROLL UP YOUR CIGARETTE!!!
's... of ?¿
Is it my choice on what to put inside it?
ive got a 400 SBC with a Qjet.... (carter Qjet... which is an odd ball)
.
anyway..... it JUMPS when ya hit the gas
and it LOVES all the fuel.....
.
its a cold blooded bitch that likes to be choked!!!!
but it will start right up in -50f
.
crank crank crank BA!!!!! ROOM!!!! ....... idle idle idle idle idle
.
thats a sign of good even compression, good spark and plugs..... and a well set carb
Read about what JESUS did this is mine blowing. Can you believe this, did you ever hear of this about HIM
Romans 10:5/10, c u there
$$🧐👌
You should show a video on how you tuned the carburetor on the slant six in detail
Unlce tony. I just came across your video. Im having those symptoms (new car) 1988 ford festiva 1.3 carby.. it has a slightly bugg,struggle when taking off. I have no experience on carburetor. Could ypu guide me on how to check replace the accelerator pump? I can email you some pics
my 4160 Cab on my 390 engine, i had to spray gas into the Carb for the car to start it wasn't spraying when you press gas, , i rebuilded the carb now it's spraying but now i have to press the gas to start the car once i stop pressing gas car turns off, any suggestions please?
Unlce tony. I have some carburator questions. Do you think i can send you some pics and where.... i have a 1998 ford festiva 1.3. As far as i know the carburetor is made by aisin.
I have a small buy/hesitation when you barely tap on the gas. So it hesitate everytime you take off. Its only in the beginning. After that its fine and runs good after that.. i changed the accelerator pump thinking it was that but it didn't help much.. the carb has a knob and also a adjusting screw. Do ypu know where to start and how i can send you some pics of how the carburetor looks like
My 225 Lean Burn Holley 1 barrel '82 model 1945 smog carb I don't think has multiple holes but does have a U shaped bendable linkage. Can I bend the linkage for more pump? or do I need to drill more holes?
Hi what about a flat spot at 4000 rpm? Then wakes back up. Advance sticking?
Not sure if you will get this. I have a ford 390 with a 4 barrel Holley 600. At idle she runs great but at higher rpms she starts to backfire. I just installed a HEI distributor and this is when I started having the issues. Do you have any thoughts?
on a holley 850 front squirters is there supposed to be a checkball under the squirter or just that rod? Since carb was new d.side of the squirter dribbles then squirts. Changing squirters same thing. Im lost...thats my hesitation when I blip the throttle at idle.
Thanks for the videos Tony. My dad passed about 20 years ago he would have loved you!
UT.. i’ve got a 40 Ford with a Chevy 350 small block, no modifications with a Edelbrock 1406 four barrel. During the cooler weather I noticed it running fine as the weather got warmer it seems like it actually had to be leaned out because in the warmer weather it wanted to stall out sitting at a light for it hesitated when you went to takeoff and as you let off the throttle after going any type of speed over 50 or 60 it would backfire a lot out of the exhaust pipes but not the carburetor. At one point the idol was up there nice around 900 850 in gear it would be about 650 to 700 which which I liked because if I turned on the air conditioning it would even go lower but lately it’s Gone back to this almost to Rich low idol 400 in gear 600 in Park. Is there a generic starting point I could go with on that 1406 screw both mixture screws all the way down back them out one and a half turns or or watt and then adjust the idle screw from there because it seem like I had it right and then I went for a drive and everything changed to get real high idle it started that pop in again out of the pipes it was surging again while driving it’s slow any help there thanks JT...I just wanted to add the guy that works on my car is a real hot rod guy and it’s hard to get with him sometimes and with the weather change I had to monkey around with the carburetor myself before this kind of stuff he had it all right in that cooler weather and I know the timing and everything is good on it I’ve got a new transmission in it new torque converter new fuel cell so I drive it every day it runs great but that carburetor is becoming a erratic
I literally just got my international running and was wondering why it would bog down when I gave it gas...well I hop on RUclips the very first suggested video😂
Thx for the info UT. Its nice to have the little things entombed here so I can come back. If I ever need to.
One small thing to add. On a Holley design, When the idle speed adjustment screw is turned in either direction is will change the accel. Pump adjustment as well. So any time the screw is turned double check pump adjustment.
Very good point
My Holley pump isn't squirting fuel as soon as I touch the throttle linkage...
Most people look thebiggest problem of all
A loose connection between the steering wheel and the driver seat
I've got a practically new holley 600 on a completely stock 350 and it ran great on there for a while but now it idles high when it warms up and has a bog on any kind of even mildly hard acceleration. Acts to me like a vacuum leak but I absolutely can not find one
Like most of us with a holley and an edelbrock available.....the AFB is on the car and the holley is on the shelf.
i love carburator talk , thanks uncle tony :)i used to run a 750 dp and ran 11.13 @ 123 on a hot day so i decided to swap it and run my 1850s 600 vac carb which i use for driving to and from the track ...long story short i did every single adjustment to it that you just mentioned in this video , pump shot , cam adjustment etc etc and i dialed in that little carb and the car ran 11.21 @ 121 on the 1/4 .....so yes indeed everything you said in your video is key to dialing in a carb whether its for street or strip or a blend of both worlds , thanx utg :),,,btw i havent seen you throw carb parts to the side in a while like your first videos , i miss that
what about a intermittent pump shot on a holley 4412 i got good fuel pressure clean carb motor is mechanically sound but when you give her full throttle sometimes it will give a nice full shot & some times not
Killer video brotha! Excellent explanation as always 👊🔥
There are 2 trains of thought on the accelerator pump adjustment. One is what you said here but the other is at wot make sure the pump is not bottomed out. That is where you need the clearance. Which is it?
I thought I was the only one that accidentally bumped tools and caused them to fall down to the hardest place to get to ;)
I have a stumble when I let off on the throttle. Idles good , accelerates good. Edelbrock carb.
Im 74 finly have time for some fun toys thanks for explaining
Blue Road Toad?
CULT LEADER UTG!!!
With modern gas, the diaphragms for the accelerator pumps like to tear more easily too.
Uncle Tony is the man! Damn.. and people think fuel injection is complex. Much love and respect Tony. Im 39, and my first car was a 1974 Chevy impala. Put a cam in, and some long tubes. Converted it from a two barrel to a Edelbrock 750 cfm four barrel. i was in highschool, and it was the late 90s. oooh do i miss that car. that son of a gun was a torque monster. Oh, forgot to mention it was bored 30 over, and had a 400 crank thrown in. Bought it from my good ol mechanic teacher in high school. Bought it from him for $800. Keep up the great content.
Uncle Tony where do you find the time or patience to make so many videos
Im a AVS guy myself. Could make a Quadrajet run circles around a Holley..I have a fuel injected 5.2 in my Dakota..with my knowledge of timing curves and carburetors Im considering going old school to get some adjustability. Researching how to get the 98 trans to work with this set up.
I love your videos! Watch them all the time! I do have a question tho. I have a Holley 4160 750cfm vacuum secondaries. Off idle punch is great but half throttle it bogs and tries to die. Fresh rebuild, new diaphragms and power valve. Everything else checks out great. I was running an Edelbrock 600 and everything ran great and I switched to this Holley and driveability went into toilet. Any suggestions? Idles great, responds great but driving at half throttle it cuts out
I love this stuff!
Yes accelerator pumps do help throttle response on a stocker or mild built engine on moderate performance engines mechanical secondaries ..proper bend in mechanical Holly rod..and metering block with proper power valve and jets works better..
On the afb-carter type carbs...I.E.) Edelbrock I feel jetting, metering rods and springs do most of it. On the street car..a stall convertor, rear gear ,matching cam-spring set up and proper cfm set up carb with proper timing works for really snappy take offs.
My holly six pack accel squirter doesn’t have the 3 holes. I noticed it has cam actuation, do you just replace the cam ramps for different levels of squirt aggression? Thanks