@@aaronclark9386 You need to google gaslighting mate. It could still be conceived as vaping. Clearly from multiple comments that seem to be the perception.
@@benmiles00 I appreciate that it’s “their perception” but it’s not the truth. Unfortunately it is now commonplace to attack or amend facts to placate individuals that are too lazy or ignorant to see past their own alternative facts that contribute to a “personal reality” that isn’t based on facts. So…stop trying to gaslight, and have fun in your hobby journey.
In regards to the dirty down rust and vertigris, i have found that if you let them sit for to long in the bottle, a realy thick layer at the bottom of the bottle forms, that has all the "reacting" stuff in it, and in order to get it working again, you have to REALY stir the stuff with a stick to get it working again. sometomes the agitator ball evan gets stuck in the grime at the bottom.
I've found that warming the bottle up a bit (not in a microwave or anything like that lol) under my armpit or behind my knee for 5-10mins before use and then mixing does the trick nicely
It always amazes me how someone can paint something like this in an hour or two. It usually takes me an entire day or more just to paint something to a very basic gw style parade ready.
Honestly that's probably because the gw painting style is incredibly inefficient, I've been painting to that style because that's what I was taught, and especially on days where I lack motivation it can take forever to get otherwise simple steps done.
Sorry for the necro but that is the beauty of grimdark and enamels and oils. The technique simply uses the existing detail in the model and you only paint the vibe and lights. You can push models super fast with this, downside is, it is very easy to overdue and overpower the model
If I'm not mistaken, Goon's Grime was designed to color match the old Streaking Grime recipe from AK that was super popular before they changed the formula. I also think Coelia Green and Carrion Crimson are close matches to Coelia Greenshade and Carroburg Crimson washes from GW. Zatcaskagoon would often use those as filters through the airbrush and I think he wanted to make enamel versions for them.
Thank you for all of your content. I've been procrastinating for years to get into this hobby, and I've finally started delving deep into the lore and painting of Warhammer 40K. I appreciate your videos, which have helped guide me in the right direction on how to create these masterpieces.
This is seriously one of the most gorgeous paint jobs I’ve ever seen. I’ve been a long time fan and I’m always impressed with how easy you make everything look and how amazing your paint jobs turn out. Your videos have really helped me become a much better painter over the years and I cant wait to try this style out!
Very nice tutorial, since i use enamels and oil based washes regulary id like to add something, Enamel and white spirit fumes a very unhealthy (villany inks are supposed to be less toxic cause of a different formula), use it in well ventilated areas, white spirits will fuck up your natural brushes, id advise to use syntethic brushes for those in the long run...also if you go for the reduction technique ( remove enamles with white spirits) you should use a clearcoat on your mini before you use enamels, cause if you "scrub" to hard some acrylic colors or speedpaints might reactivate and get "washed" off the model
clearcoat as in varnish right? I've been trying that but matt varnish didnt manage to protect the acrylics fully and glossy varnish stays glossy even if I put matt over it at the end, so I'm struggling a bit atm...
@@TheCountSummon i normally use the satin varnish from army painter, its not that glossy and after you use enamels (i use them all over like the mini is dipped in, then reduce with a sponge and soft dipping) so there is absolutely no shine becaue ethe enamles are as matte as can be, what do you use for removing the enamels? I made bad experiences with qtips since the are to hard
I love painting in grim dark with oils. As a working adult, I find that I don't have the time to flex the hobby muscles consistently. A painting style that encourages messier highlights and a process that I can stop and start again is great !!
just started getting back to oil/enamel after many bad experiences as a kid with testors paints, and it's been a serious level up and an incredible compliment to acrylics Fantastic video
Glad to see your pig guy with a sword in the display case, it’s my favorite model I’ve ever seen you paint, and have revisited that video countless times.
I just got a case set of 80 Vallejo Mecha colours (Airbrush Colours). I got an amazing deal on them during the mid year sales. I ended up paying $210 AU (which is about $139 US). That was a 40% off saving. The paints look great and even though they’re marketed as airbrush colours there’s no reason why you can’t use them with a brush. In fact they work great with a brush as there is little need to thin down your paints when you’re using them. Can’t wait to put them to use.
That is one of the best space marines I've ever seen. Great work! I have the full set of villainy ink enamels. They work really well with AK interactive matte effect thinner and disposable eye shadow applicators. This is my new favourite space marine tutorial. Thanks for sharing!!
Due to building a model railway before warhammer I have only ever painted with enamels and have only just started using acrylics for occasional details. Death Guard painted with only enamels looks great!
Haven't been in the hobby for about 3 years and watched any of your vids in a long while, but heck man, this was a great return to the hobby and your content. Genuinely so encouraging and exactly the grim aspect I want for my minis. Thanks Jon, you da bomb. Happy to see your channel has grown so much in this short time (also congrats on the Golden Demon!!!).
Already been doing this thanks to trovarion. I really dislike how people assume this is low effort and skill though. It can be taken very high up and imo looks way better than the clean look. I dont use any of the streaking grime or oils. I paint scratches, rust and everything else with acrylics, i prime dark brown and then add lighter brown's to edges and places where dirt/rust would build, then i paint my army colour ( black with blue mixed in for bt )
I have a fully assembled space wolves army that's been sitting in drawers for over a year. I've tried various test models but nothing has ever stuck quite right... I think I might finally have decided on a direction for the paint. Always loved this look but forgot just how easy it was to actually do. I use AK grimes for terrain so.... yeah. Here we go.
Loving the grimdark look or better said "actually looking like centuries old warriors fighting endless wars in the gutter, and not fresh out of factory parade primadonas in smurf superblue armor"
Nice work again. Also painting grimdark SM, but after some experimenting I picked diluted contrast paints for the weathering. They achieve a very similar result for me and I don't have to work with enamels...tried them several times and just hate to work with them.
I'm sure I'm not the first to say it but you gotta get some makeup sponges for the removal step of enamel or oil washes. You can get some more interesting and sharp edged contact points and the sponges don't run the risk of leaving stray fibers behind that you need to clean up. They're just as cheap as cotton swabs and very satisfying to use.
Awesome Tutorial... now question: how would one pull off a similar effect if they wanted to have their Army (imperial guard) in full Black Armor with any fabric being dark grey.
Nice video. good paint job and neat effects. My only quibble is that I think his armor still reads more space wolf grey then ultra marine blue. I would go a shade or two darker on the initial base coats. Still looks great and i would be very happy with an army of them.
I personally like Trovarion's grim dark marines better as it looks more like battle damage. Your method looks more like he's been slogging through mud or fighting in melee with nurglings. It's good to have different options though or maybe even combine different methods to get the grim dark effect you prefer.
As an automotive model builder I have a ton of enamels. In fact, I don't use acrylic metallics on my minis. I only use enamel and lacquer based metallics. I have all the paint so it is time to get to it
Heck yeah! Those Villany Inks have been on my wishlist for a few weeks now. Waiting for payday to get a few and try them out on some Tyranids! Thanks for showing off the techniques! :)
I have a question about paint storage. I've recently come back to the hobby after a 15 year hiatus, and I'm just rebuilding my paint collection. My question is this: At what temperature can i safely store my acrylic paints, how about enamels for washes? I live in a desert, where temps can regularly hit 115F in the summer, and my painting setup is in my uncooled garage. Is it safe to keep my paints there? or should I keep them inside when not in use? How hot is too hot?
My first slap chop attempt was very dark bc I didn't go light enough with my drybrush, so if you keep it dark, then you could probably make it grimdark that way too.
I would love to see what you can do with AK's RC lacquers instead of water acrylics. As someone with a fraction of your talent, I'm getting the best looking minis I've ever painted. Being able to feather in lacquer thinner to get perfectly smooth wet blends with lacquers just feels good man. I just need AK to release a bunch of sci-fi/fantasy colors instead of endless variety of WW2 camo tones.
Think you have it the other way around on saturation. I've found the base coat should be super saturated in grimdark, because the enamel wash will tone it down a lot on its own.
@@Hudston what's a better alternative? Spray cans? I've been using Army Painter cans but they speckle so much, at least the white does (no issues with black)
@@PeterResponsible You're going to have a hard time with white primer regardless of what brand you use; at microscopic level the white pigment molecules are larger than other colors so it's really hard to avoid speckling. I'd recommend getting a light gray primer. I use a Vallejo rattle can but I haven't heard anything bad about Citadel's grey seer or even an off-white like Wraithbone.
It seems similar weathering effects could be made with Pro Acryl “Newsh” medium by working and removing mixtures with acrylic paint. I’m hesitant to use enamel and spirits due to their toxicity
Apply clear coat, add decals if you need to, one more thin clear coat, wash, dry, clean wash with brush and q-tip... Then coat with flat or semigloss to seal in your work and finish. Using enamels without clear coat can lead to damaging the paint especially for newbies with overly moist q-tip in Mineral spirit... Also for patient and slower painters, just use oils. They are cheap, workable for very long time.
Gorgeous model, beautifully painted, but that's a space wolf. The grimey look lends itself better to them anyway, since while I agree I can't imagine the Space Wolves bringing an elite cadre of combat armor polishers and paint touch up servitors with them on campaign, I absolutely CAN imagine the ultramarines doing that, since the Codex Astartes demands proper identifying marks and badging. I always imagine the differences in the combat ethos of the chapters, and the 'timing' of the painting in the battle controls the dirtyness. My marines would never dream of entering a battle without proper paintwork!
Looks more like a rainbow warrior imo. For an ultramarine id probably go the full zorn pallet and use the bluish black, and hightlight up with white a bit. Still great model tho
This is honestly one of my favorite grim dark videos, it came out so amazing, now im thinking how to use this technique with Dark Angels, i guess i have to go semi bright with the green right?
It looks really awesome. It still doesn't look like an Ultramarine. It's just too bright. It looks like sun bleached blue, but you don't have the saturation in the shadows that you would get with a true sun bleaching.
I use that exact term about most models, right off the factory floor. I feel only Ultramarines and maybe some Eldar should be shiny and clean. Everything else, especially human infantry, should be dirty and worn. Bugs and daemons, dirty and worn. A veteran unit might be clean, or cleaner, but their items and clothes should be well used and worn. I did that with my Goliath gang for Necromunda. The Juves have deep color on their clothes, since they just joined and have new clothes, and their weapons are old and worn. They got the hand me downs and stuff sitting around. The leader's clothes are worn and lighter in color, but their weapons are shinier and well kept, well-polished and sharpened.
I'm really loving the Villainy Inks, but I got a really bad reaction when I tried to varnish a mini too soon. So give them plenty of time to dry prior to adding a varnish (was the Army Painter Matte varnish, although i'm assuming the reaction may be more wide spread).
Varnishing mine with Vallejo Matt varnish messed up the paintjob in such a horrible way that I had to clean the model in mineral spirits and start over. Feels like the product is made for dioramas and not minaiture wargaming/board games that you are supposed to actually use and touch....
Thanks Jon! Never painted a space marine and probably never will, but I definitely want to integrate a lot of your techniques into my slaves to darkness army
Yes it looks super way better than slapchop, but for sure that has to take way longer, or you are touching up your slapchop. I think what shows though is the time it takes doesn't occur as a struggle, you look like you are having fun, and it seems to me that's why it seems easier. Because if you are having fun, it is. Looks great, for sure.
All marines should look like that - I hate that 'Grimdark' is a separate named thing, when it should be the standard. Wonderful work though, one of your best! 👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻
Been thinking about giving those enamels a try but still a bit hesitant. Thinking about using them on the upcoming Skaven. Would love to see a video of griming up a rat, especially one that's got white fur or lighter colored fur.
Hey Jon, it seems, that Steamforged just acquired Warmachine and the p3 paints rights (or sth like that). It seems, like they want to re-release the P3 paints. Maybe, if you like, just contact them and let us hear, what they planing to do. P3 in a bigger range and in droppers is probably sth, we all want to see.
Go to TryFum.com/NINJON or scan the QR code and use code NINJON to get your free FÜM Base when you order your Journey Pack today!
Don't promote vaping... Kids are dying due to poor vape laws... Local teenager lungs collapsed due to vaping.
It’s not a Vape and has zero nicotine, instead of gaslighting do a quick google search 🤦🏼♂️.
www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9041544/
@@aaronclark9386 You need to google gaslighting mate. It could still be conceived as vaping. Clearly from multiple comments that seem to be the perception.
@@benmiles00 I appreciate that it’s “their perception” but it’s not the truth. Unfortunately it is now commonplace to attack or amend facts to placate individuals that are too lazy or ignorant to see past their own alternative facts that contribute to a “personal reality” that isn’t based on facts. So…stop trying to gaslight, and have fun in your hobby journey.
Thanks so much!! I greatly appreciate you checking out Villainy Ink. 🎉 The Model looks awesome!
Love your channel! Awesome to see you get a shout out.
@@laughingman4570 thank you!! 😊
My favorite painter getting a shoutout on a Ninjon video… nice!
Great to see the Compendium getting the love it deserves!
In regards to the dirty down rust and vertigris, i have found that if you let them sit for to long in the bottle, a realy thick layer at the bottom of the bottle forms, that has all the "reacting" stuff in it, and in order to get it working again, you have to REALY stir the stuff with a stick to get it working again. sometomes the agitator ball evan gets stuck in the grime at the bottom.
Vortex mixer?
WAIT YOU WATCH NINJON?!
I've been following you for years! How exciting!
Then buy a good mini vortex mixer
I've found that warming the bottle up a bit (not in a microwave or anything like that lol) under my armpit or behind my knee for 5-10mins before use and then mixing does the trick nicely
It always amazes me how someone can paint something like this in an hour or two. It usually takes me an entire day or more just to paint something to a very basic gw style parade ready.
Honestly that's probably because the gw painting style is incredibly inefficient, I've been painting to that style because that's what I was taught, and especially on days where I lack motivation it can take forever to get otherwise simple steps done.
Sorry for the necro but that is the beauty of grimdark and enamels and oils. The technique simply uses the existing detail in the model and you only paint the vibe and lights. You can push models super fast with this, downside is, it is very easy to overdue and overpower the model
They make it look easy because of their experience. Practice and repetition will eventually reduce the time required to achieve these results.
Take your ripped sponge and shove it in a brush tip protector plastic tube. Really effective for neat, accurate, controlled sponging.
I thought this comment was going in a completely different direction when I started reading it.
I was ready to be offended. Instead, i was enlightened.
If I'm not mistaken, Goon's Grime was designed to color match the old Streaking Grime recipe from AK that was super popular before they changed the formula. I also think Coelia Green and Carrion Crimson are close matches to Coelia Greenshade and Carroburg Crimson washes from GW. Zatcaskagoon would often use those as filters through the airbrush and I think he wanted to make enamel versions for them.
Correct!! Thanks!
Thank you for all of your content. I've been procrastinating for years to get into this hobby, and I've finally started delving deep into the lore and painting of Warhammer 40K. I appreciate your videos, which have helped guide me in the right direction on how to create these masterpieces.
This is seriously one of the most gorgeous paint jobs I’ve ever seen. I’ve been a long time fan and I’m always impressed with how easy you make everything look and how amazing your paint jobs turn out. Your videos have really helped me become a much better painter over the years and I cant wait to try this style out!
You nailed the environmental damage. That color and weathering is spot on for "Ford Blue" that's been derelict in a pasture for 60 years.
ha that's accurate.
Very nice tutorial, since i use enamels and oil based washes regulary id like to add something, Enamel and white spirit fumes a very unhealthy (villany inks are supposed to be less toxic cause of a different formula), use it in well ventilated areas, white spirits will fuck up your natural brushes, id advise to use syntethic brushes for those in the long run...also if you go for the reduction technique ( remove enamles with white spirits) you should use a clearcoat on your mini before you use enamels, cause if you "scrub" to hard some acrylic colors or speedpaints might reactivate and get "washed" off the model
clearcoat as in varnish right? I've been trying that but matt varnish didnt manage to protect the acrylics fully and glossy varnish stays glossy even if I put matt over it at the end, so I'm struggling a bit atm...
@@TheCountSummon i normally use the satin varnish from army painter, its not that glossy and after you use enamels (i use them all over like the mini is dipped in, then reduce with a sponge and soft dipping) so there is absolutely no shine becaue ethe enamles are as matte as can be, what do you use for removing the enamels? I made bad experiences with qtips since the are to hard
Makeup sponges is really nice especially over larger surfaces. Less hard than qtips which makes scratching the underlying paint harder.
I love painting in grim dark with oils. As a working adult, I find that I don't have the time to flex the hobby muscles consistently. A painting style that encourages messier highlights and a process that I can stop and start again is great !!
Wonderful tutorial on the use of Villiany Ink. They are great products and a great company. Can't wait for the wave 2 colors. Thanks again.
I am 100% going to try this with my charcaradons! The Villany ink also looks awesome!
just started getting back to oil/enamel after many bad experiences as a kid with testors paints, and it's been a serious level up and an incredible compliment to acrylics
Fantastic video
I've learned more from watching your brushwork than most channels with tutorials. Thanks!
Excellent tutorial. One of my favourite videos of your so far. Definitely saving this to my Grimdark painting playlist.
Glad to see your pig guy with a sword in the display case, it’s my favorite model I’ve ever seen you paint, and have revisited that video countless times.
I just got a case set of 80 Vallejo Mecha colours (Airbrush Colours). I got an amazing deal on them during the mid year sales. I ended up paying $210 AU (which is about $139 US). That was a 40% off saving. The paints look great and even though they’re marketed as airbrush colours there’s no reason why you can’t use them with a brush. In fact they work great with a brush as there is little need to thin down your paints when you’re using them. Can’t wait to put them to use.
I love grimdark style and this was a great, accessible tutorial. I need to get my knucklebones minis printed so I can paint them in this style.
Absolutely loved the effect, speed and intro to enamel grimdark / pin wash. Thank you.
looks great! I think the one thing that would help it read as Ultramarine would be the gold shoulder pads but I like the desaturated look
That is one of the best space marines I've ever seen. Great work! I have the full set of villainy ink enamels. They work really well with AK interactive matte effect thinner and disposable eye shadow applicators. This is my new favourite space marine tutorial. Thanks for sharing!!
Captain here - the music in the background is Powerhouse1984 as usual in John's videos performed by Lupus Nocte.
Due to building a model railway before warhammer I have only ever painted with enamels and have only just started using acrylics for occasional details. Death Guard painted with only enamels looks great!
If you held a gun to my head and asked me what chapter he was I would still say space wolf
I clicked the video because I'm a SW player and wanted to see how he painted a SW
I would have said Nova Marines.😌
Haven't been in the hobby for about 3 years and watched any of your vids in a long while, but heck man, this was a great return to the hobby and your content. Genuinely so encouraging and exactly the grim aspect I want for my minis. Thanks Jon, you da bomb. Happy to see your channel has grown so much in this short time (also congrats on the Golden Demon!!!).
Already been doing this thanks to trovarion. I really dislike how people assume this is low effort and skill though. It can be taken very high up and imo looks way better than the clean look. I dont use any of the streaking grime or oils. I paint scratches, rust and everything else with acrylics, i prime dark brown and then add lighter brown's to edges and places where dirt/rust would build, then i paint my army colour ( black with blue mixed in for bt )
okay guy
Love it - amazing end result. Got me thinking I might do this for my new fists
I think it would look phenomenal on Imperial Fist yellow. Go for it.
Bookmarking this for non-metalic, grimdark Grey Knights scheme inspiration. Top-drawer use of enamels, great work as always. Cheers!
I just picked up Pro Acryl's Satin Black to do base rims to see if I could replace Abaddon Black. I'm glad you gave it your vote of confidence!
I have a fully assembled space wolves army that's been sitting in drawers for over a year. I've tried various test models but nothing has ever stuck quite right... I think I might finally have decided on a direction for the paint. Always loved this look but forgot just how easy it was to actually do. I use AK grimes for terrain so.... yeah. Here we go.
Grimdark is my jam! Great video. Going to take this into my own painting. Thanks!
Loving the grimdark look or better said "actually looking like centuries old warriors fighting endless wars in the gutter, and not fresh out of factory parade primadonas in smurf superblue armor"
I love that model. It really does feel like a grim dark space marine.
Nice work again. Also painting grimdark SM, but after some experimenting I picked diluted contrast paints for the weathering. They achieve a very similar result for me and I don't have to work with enamels...tried them several times and just hate to work with them.
base rims look so good with Golden SoFlat black and it comes in a much bigger container, so it really lasts.
Oh damn!! I have been dying to see these enamels at work!! Thank you for another great video
I'm sure I'm not the first to say it but you gotta get some makeup sponges for the removal step of enamel or oil washes. You can get some more interesting and sharp edged contact points and the sponges don't run the risk of leaving stray fibers behind that you need to clean up. They're just as cheap as cotton swabs and very satisfying to use.
Awesome Tutorial... now question: how would one pull off a similar effect if they wanted to have their Army (imperial guard) in full Black Armor with any fabric being dark grey.
Nice video. good paint job and neat effects. My only quibble is that I think his armor still reads more space wolf grey then ultra marine blue. I would go a shade or two darker on the initial base coats. Still looks great and i would be very happy with an army of them.
I think this looks amazing but I think the blue needs a bit more saturation although I understand the reasoning behind using less.
I personally like Trovarion's grim dark marines better as it looks more like battle damage. Your method looks more like he's been slogging through mud or fighting in melee with nurglings. It's good to have different options though or maybe even combine different methods to get the grim dark effect you prefer.
I may be wrong, but I think trovarion's take way more than an hour and a half to be painted
As an automotive model builder I have a ton of enamels. In fact, I don't use acrylic metallics on my minis. I only use enamel and lacquer based metallics. I have all the paint so it is time to get to it
TTB (Time To Blanche) : 45 seconds. Respectable. Thanks for the videos!
Heck yeah! Those Villany Inks have been on my wishlist for a few weeks now. Waiting for payday to get a few and try them out on some Tyranids! Thanks for showing off the techniques! :)
I love those asylum inmates over at grimdark compendium so so much...
@Ninjon Just wait till you use the coelia green on a dead flesh effect...amazing. Very happy to see @grimdarkcompendium getting some love.
Nice job 👍. I too just switched over to using PA Satin Black for my base rims too.
I have a question about paint storage.
I've recently come back to the hobby after a 15 year hiatus, and I'm just rebuilding my paint collection.
My question is this: At what temperature can i safely store my acrylic paints, how about enamels for washes?
I live in a desert, where temps can regularly hit 115F in the summer, and my painting setup is in my uncooled garage. Is it safe to keep my paints there? or should I keep them inside when not in use?
How hot is too hot?
My first slap chop attempt was very dark bc I didn't go light enough with my drybrush, so if you keep it dark, then you could probably make it grimdark that way too.
I would still go with a deeper blue for an ultramarine even in grimdark. Would deffo use this recipe for a lighter marine though, like a space wolf.
Always enjoy the grim dark style especially with nurgle models
I would love to see what you can do with AK's RC lacquers instead of water acrylics. As someone with a fraction of your talent, I'm getting the best looking minis I've ever painted. Being able to feather in lacquer thinner to get perfectly smooth wet blends with lacquers just feels good man. I just need AK to release a bunch of sci-fi/fantasy colors instead of endless variety of WW2 camo tones.
Appreciate you still doing high production value painting tutorials that focus on technique rather than clickbait and entertainment.
Grimdark painting is clickbait.
Just the sort of video I tune in for - thanks for getting this one out
Think you have it the other way around on saturation. I've found the base coat should be super saturated in grimdark, because the enamel wash will tone it down a lot on its own.
how did I not know about Grimdark before?! now I want to repaint all my minis in grim dark
That's sweet. Weathering is great.
For an hour and a half of painting that is fantastic!
Some how I got off painting RUclips, it’s good to be back!
Jon "Airbrush Priming Is Terrible" Ninas once again priming with his airbrush 😂
You don't airbrush prime because it's good, you airbrush prime because you're too lazy to go outside.
@@Hudston what's a better alternative? Spray cans? I've been using Army Painter cans but they speckle so much, at least the white does (no issues with black)
@@PeterResponsible You're going to have a hard time with white primer regardless of what brand you use; at microscopic level the white pigment molecules are larger than other colors so it's really hard to avoid speckling. I'd recommend getting a light gray primer. I use a Vallejo rattle can but I haven't heard anything bad about Citadel's grey seer or even an off-white like Wraithbone.
The bolter barrel in the mouth of that cartoon mouse. Love it.
Beautifully done thanks for sharing.
Nice! Love the mini! I'll have to give Villainy Ink a try, I think.
Crazy how fast you made a good looking mini.
It seems similar weathering effects could be made with Pro Acryl “Newsh” medium by working and removing mixtures with acrylic paint. I’m hesitant to use enamel and spirits due to their toxicity
Apply clear coat, add decals if you need to, one more thin clear coat, wash, dry, clean wash with brush and q-tip... Then coat with flat or semigloss to seal in your work and finish. Using enamels without clear coat can lead to damaging the paint especially for newbies with overly moist q-tip in Mineral spirit... Also for patient and slower painters, just use oils. They are cheap, workable for very long time.
This is the coolest paint job I have seen in a while
Gorgeous model, beautifully painted, but that's a space wolf. The grimey look lends itself better to them anyway, since while I agree I can't imagine the Space Wolves bringing an elite cadre of combat armor polishers and paint touch up servitors with them on campaign, I absolutely CAN imagine the ultramarines doing that, since the Codex Astartes demands proper identifying marks and badging.
I always imagine the differences in the combat ethos of the chapters, and the 'timing' of the painting in the battle controls the dirtyness. My marines would never dream of entering a battle without proper paintwork!
Looks more like a rainbow warrior imo. For an ultramarine id probably go the full zorn pallet and use the bluish black, and hightlight up with white a bit. Still great model tho
Jesus, doing a mini like this in 1 hour and a half is insane. It probably would take me a month or something.
Am I the only one who dances in place during the painting montage moments?
Great video, lots of ideas for my new scout squad kill team.
Holy schmoly I would pay good money to see some kingdom death survivors painted in this style!
This my favorite painting video you have done; so far.
This is honestly one of my favorite grim dark videos, it came out so amazing, now im thinking how to use this technique with Dark Angels, i guess i have to go semi bright with the green right?
It looks really awesome.
It still doesn't look like an Ultramarine. It's just too bright. It looks like sun bleached blue, but you don't have the saturation in the shadows that you would get with a true sun bleaching.
Someday I hope to paint even half as well as you do Ninjon.
John I would really love a tutorial on speed painting skavens. :D
HELL YEAH, I was on the fence on being these villainy inks. Best mini channel fr
"Put that bolter barrel in the mouth of that cartoon mouse" WHAT A LINE!!
I use that exact term about most models, right off the factory floor.
I feel only Ultramarines and maybe some Eldar should be shiny and clean. Everything else, especially human infantry, should be dirty and worn. Bugs and daemons, dirty and worn. A veteran unit might be clean, or cleaner, but their items and clothes should be well used and worn.
I did that with my Goliath gang for Necromunda. The Juves have deep color on their clothes, since they just joined and have new clothes, and their weapons are old and worn. They got the hand me downs and stuff sitting around. The leader's clothes are worn and lighter in color, but their weapons are shinier and well kept, well-polished and sharpened.
Love your work mate I learn so much after watching your videos
beautiful. I would love such an army.
I'm really loving the Villainy Inks, but I got a really bad reaction when I tried to varnish a mini too soon. So give them plenty of time to dry prior to adding a varnish (was the Army Painter Matte varnish, although i'm assuming the reaction may be more wide spread).
Varnishing mine with Vallejo Matt varnish messed up the paintjob in such a horrible way that I had to clean the model in mineral spirits and start over. Feels like the product is made for dioramas and not minaiture wargaming/board games that you are supposed to actually use and touch....
The verdigris makes a space marine look like undersea Rip Van Winkle.
Thanks Jon! Never painted a space marine and probably never will, but I definitely want to integrate a lot of your techniques into my slaves to darkness army
Awesome work! Love to see Villainy Ink get some coverage!
Amazing, you make it look easy.
Looks good-- still a little too Space Wolf, but still a lot to learn from the pain job.
Yes it looks super way better than slapchop, but for sure that has to take way longer, or you are touching up your slapchop. I think what shows though is the time it takes doesn't occur as a struggle, you look like you are having fun, and it seems to me that's why it seems easier. Because if you are having fun, it is.
Looks great, for sure.
That's a sick paintjob for that amount of time.
Man you are a sick painter...90 minutes to do that I couldn't do it in 8 hours
Beautiful! Well done!
It looks great, not really getting Ultramarine though
All marines should look like that - I hate that 'Grimdark' is a separate named thing, when it should be the standard.
Wonderful work though, one of your best! 👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻
Been thinking about giving those enamels a try but still a bit hesitant. Thinking about using them on the upcoming Skaven. Would love to see a video of griming up a rat, especially one that's got white fur or lighter colored fur.
Id love to see you do a howling Griffon in that style
Hey Jon, it seems, that Steamforged just acquired Warmachine and the p3 paints rights (or sth like that). It seems, like they want to re-release the P3 paints. Maybe, if you like, just contact them and let us hear, what they planing to do. P3 in a bigger range and in droppers is probably sth, we all want to see.
nice and gritty.