I would suggest getting the astronomik L1 filter as lets through more light and cuts a bit less of the uv/ir than typical removing the issue but letting through more light
Agree my 533 have the same issue.It can detect beyond 1000nm so even my l-enhance data have blowed stars(massive red rings due to the out of focused red channel),luckily I solved this problem 4 month ago and I'm back to happy shooting
Also behind, but it really seems to emphasize red tones. i.e. without the uv/ir cut filter I get the blowed up stars, but with the filter it's like imaging in the red channel.
No idea, seems like an odd choice. Unless I'm missing something, this isn't exactly front and center on the product spec sheets either. Perhaps it's one of those situations where 'people in the know, know'. How was Kelling Heath?
I have this filter. It's my first light pollution filter since starting this hobby a year ago so I don't have any experience with other filters. I have a have a C8 SCT. My image train is Starizona focal reducer, Celestron OAG with ASI174MM mini, 6mm spacer, ZWO filter drawer and finally an ASI071MC Pro, Is this an issue with all light pollution filters? I purchase the Antlia Quad over the Optolong L Pro. I have noticed halos around bright stars used for focus and the halos are reduced as I lower the exposure. I wonder if the bloating is just a halo around the brighter stars in you images. I have purchased a 2" Optolong IR/UV filter a few months ago. I can't see how I could mount the IR/UV filter in the image train and keep my 90.3mm back focus. I could screw it into the Starizona reducer ahead of the OAG but would that make it harder to obtain a guide star? I wonder how two filters would affect plate solving. Does the Antifa Try Band have the same issue? Thanks
Hi KJ, from what I have seen, your camera does not have a built-in UV/IR Cut filter, so I would expect for you to be seeing a similar issue. The star bloating wasn't so much halos as stars losing their colour and appearing as larger 'blobs' rather than pinpoint compared to using a UV/IR Cut filter alone. I'm curious what your experience has been with regards to the star size/shapes and colour tones in your images. The best example I can give you of the difference I'm seeing is in the following video- just scan through it until it gets to the comparison of the three filters. ruclips.net/video/nDh8mu7PqBo/видео.html At the time I made the 3-filter video, I thought I had a focus issue, it wasn't until later that I did more research and found that the UV/IR Cut problem had already been identified by others. You can mount the UV/IR Cut filter in front of your OAG, it should actually help with guiding as it will reduce the halos in your guide stars. You can also image composites where you shoot the stars with the UV/IR Cut filter, and overlay them into your nebula images shot with the quad. Video on compositing stars: ruclips.net/video/tz0KYVduMaM/видео.html The tri-band does not have this problem as it is limited to RGB, where-as what makes the quad seems to be the addition of the frequencies which intersect with ultra-violet and infrared.
Thank you. I'm looking at the Antlia Quad specs and at AstroAgena the specs are quoted Wavelength: H-alpha: 656.3nm S-II: 671.6nm, 672.4nm O-III: 495.9nm, 500.7nm NII: 658.3nm, 654.8nm The Optolong IR/UV specs 95% transmission at visible spectral region 420-680nm highly passing the major nebula emission lines of H-Alpha 656nm, SII 672nm and NII 654nm and 658nm. Ultraviolet 300-400nm and infrared wavelength 700-1100nm cut-off. It appears the Quad filter specs shouldn't allow at IR or UV. I'm not saying you're wrong but as a newbie I'm wondering how to reconcile the issue. The Starizona focal reducer is a 2" barrel so I may try installing my IR/UV filter and give it a go. I'm in Botle 7 right now and have been imaging the Wizard Nebula. I see Optolong filters are on sale. I'm thinking L Extreme. What is your opinion? Thanks
It's a tricky issue, and not well documented other than on discussion boards. Here's one of the better threads on the topic from Cloudy Nights: www.cloudynights.com/topic/912545-antlia-quad-band-awful-halos-help-set-up-issue-or-bad-filter/ The images posted by the topic starter match exactly what I'm experiencing. The discussion goes further to say that it is not entirely infra-red but near-infa-red frequencies that are causing the issue, and only with certain camera types. Comparing the pass-through graphs of both filters the quad goes further into the low 400's than the tri which is the near-infra-red space: www.antliafilter.com/pd.jsp?fromColId=2&id=136 www.antliafilter.com/pd.jsp?fromColId=2&id=151 Unfortunately, I don't have any Optolong filters, but I have imaged with people who do, and I've seen nice results from both the L Extreme and the L Pro. In general, the worse your sky conditions, the more aggressive you would want your filters. I prefer to shoot in narrow band myself, however there are situations where that's not an option, such as reflection and dark nebulae and galaxies. For those types of targets, I think you would want the least-restrictive filter which would pair with your sky conditions.
I'm able to mount my Optolog IR/UV on my Starizona focal reducer. I'll be able to test it out tonight. I shoot a couple of hours of the Wizard Nebula so I can compare with my earlier stacks. I have a 3 hour stack of the nebula also at F/10 (2032mm). I hope this fix will improve F/10 imaging. I'm looking at Askar D1 duo Ha/Oiii. They are supposed to be good and have better halo control than Optolong and Antlia. Close to the price of the L Extreme. Thanks
Hi Rob, I appreciate the comment, but these are expensive filters which some people have bought not realizing that they are not simply light-pollution filters. Just spending another $200+ on a different filter is not always an option! There are those who try to make the most out of these filters by adding a UV/IR Cut filter to their imaging train and trying to use them as RGB filters, and that's what this video covers - and since the results are not fantastic, it might actually save someone the hassle and few bucks it would take to add a UV/IR Cut filter themselves. CS!
Hi, Very interesting I've recently purchased the Svbony 405CC which essentially is an ASI 294CC but has no UV IR cut filter, it would appear to be a good solution as I currently use just an Altair CLS CCD filter mainly on a 585CC planetary camera which does have an IR UV fitted. Incidentally the 585 with its small pixels is working out amazingly on DSOs wide field with my Evolux 62ed & reducer/field flattener, guided on an AZgti mount, for a cheap planetary camera on DSOs I would highly recommend it..a recent M31 composition with 150subs has been extremely good yielding well defined dust lanes and Ha in spiral arms, but not much in blue. The 405 CC with its larger pixels I plan to use with my old C100 ED-R & Orion reducer mounted on a now tuned AVX mount. @ bin 2X2 Sampling this appears pretty good and will give a lot more reach. I've now fully tuned the AVX but still went out and bought some belts and drive wheels from Amazon with some modification these should fit the AVX, whether or not this will improve any backlash issues I have no idea, but will give it a try with or without belts. I also have a lovely old 9.25inch SCT originally made in the USA, A bit heavy for me to lift now but used this scope a lot for visual astronomy many moons ago loved it, also for planetary imaging with modded Sony ccd webcam & the then new Registax software .. Might be interesting to see how the AVX copes with weight of this scope although when first bought it came with Advanced GT EQ5 which barely handled it, I still have the old EQ5 but retro fitted the ioptron Gotonova upgrade motor/handset kit 15yrs ago after the original celestron motors/control pcb failed.. I plan also to use the SVbony 405CC, the Celestron SCT focal reducer and plenty of patience with 1min subs or less in my bortle 5 skies near Portsmouth UK..I'd love an off axis guider but now retired and on a budget a 50mm guide scope and any old gear laying about will now have to suffice.. Best wishes, always keen to see your videos, take care(apologies if I ramble a bit😂) .. Atb Tom.
Hey Tom, interesting comment (also, thank you for your comment, ramble on as much as you like!). I've been pondering what the outcome would be of pairing a high-pixel-density planetary camera with a short focal length ED refractor. Obviously you'd be limited by the resolving power of a smaller optics scope, but the overall image quality would be pretty good, I think. Celestron sells the AVX with a 9.25, so it aught to be able to 'handle' it, but whether it can throw it around with ease is another question. Unfortunately that's outside of my realm of experience, but wish you the best of luck, and clear skies, to test out!
Hi Tom, I got a notification of a comment from you re. an image you wanted to share, but can't find the comment here. I have a Discord server set up for exactly that purpose. You are welcome to join! Here's the link: discord.gg/3ENG4ACF
@@Felldisulfide Hi, I apologise for time getting back to you with my M31 image, just hooked up to Discord and looks as if the link you sent has expired.. Regards Tom..
I would suggest getting the astronomik L1 filter as lets through more light and cuts a bit less of the uv/ir than typical removing the issue but letting through more light
Thanks @ionfreefly - I'll see if I can borrow one (or an L-Extreme) from somebody at my club the next time we have a dark sky observing night.
Agree my 533 have the same issue.It can detect beyond 1000nm so even my l-enhance data have blowed stars(massive red rings due to the out of focused red channel),luckily I solved this problem 4 month ago and I'm back to happy shooting
Do you put the UV/IR Cut filter in front of or behind the l-enhance?
@@Felldisulfide Behind it,seems it's the same no matter were I put it,how about your situation?
Also behind, but it really seems to emphasize red tones. i.e. without the uv/ir cut filter I get the blowed up stars, but with the filter it's like imaging in the red channel.
Looks good Chris I wonder why some manufacturers have cameras with an ir cut filter and some don't? Very odd but the image has turned out great
No idea, seems like an odd choice. Unless I'm missing something, this isn't exactly front and center on the product spec sheets either. Perhaps it's one of those situations where 'people in the know, know'. How was Kelling Heath?
@@Felldisulfide I managed 3 nights out imaging M31 so we shall see how it turns out we we get back home as this is our last night here
@@dumpydalekobservatory Awesome! Looking forward to seeing what you captured!
I have this filter. It's my first light pollution filter since starting this hobby a year ago so I don't have any experience with other filters. I have a have a C8 SCT. My image train is Starizona focal reducer, Celestron OAG with ASI174MM mini, 6mm spacer, ZWO filter drawer and finally an ASI071MC Pro, Is this an issue with all light pollution filters? I purchase the Antlia Quad over the Optolong L Pro. I have noticed halos around bright stars used for focus and the halos are reduced as I lower the exposure. I wonder if the bloating is just a halo around the brighter stars in you images. I have purchased a 2" Optolong IR/UV filter a few months ago. I can't see how I could mount the IR/UV filter in the image train and keep my 90.3mm back focus. I could screw it into the Starizona reducer ahead of the OAG but would that make it harder to obtain a guide star? I wonder how two filters would affect plate solving. Does the Antifa Try Band have the same issue? Thanks
Hi KJ, from what I have seen, your camera does not have a built-in UV/IR Cut filter, so I would expect for you to be seeing a similar issue. The star bloating wasn't so much halos as stars losing their colour and appearing as larger 'blobs' rather than pinpoint compared to using a UV/IR Cut filter alone. I'm curious what your experience has been with regards to the star size/shapes and colour tones in your images. The best example I can give you of the difference I'm seeing is in the following video- just scan through it until it gets to the comparison of the three filters.
ruclips.net/video/nDh8mu7PqBo/видео.html
At the time I made the 3-filter video, I thought I had a focus issue, it wasn't until later that I did more research and found that the UV/IR Cut problem had already been identified by others.
You can mount the UV/IR Cut filter in front of your OAG, it should actually help with guiding as it will reduce the halos in your guide stars. You can also image composites where you shoot the stars with the UV/IR Cut filter, and overlay them into your nebula images shot with the quad.
Video on compositing stars:
ruclips.net/video/tz0KYVduMaM/видео.html
The tri-band does not have this problem as it is limited to RGB, where-as what makes the quad seems to be the addition of the frequencies which intersect with ultra-violet and infrared.
Thank you. I'm looking at the Antlia Quad specs and at AstroAgena the specs are quoted
Wavelength:
H-alpha: 656.3nm
S-II: 671.6nm, 672.4nm
O-III: 495.9nm, 500.7nm
NII: 658.3nm, 654.8nm
The Optolong IR/UV specs
95% transmission at visible spectral region 420-680nm highly passing the major nebula emission lines of H-Alpha 656nm, SII 672nm and NII 654nm and 658nm.
Ultraviolet 300-400nm and infrared wavelength 700-1100nm cut-off.
It appears the Quad filter specs shouldn't allow at IR or UV. I'm not saying you're wrong but as a newbie I'm wondering how to reconcile the issue.
The Starizona focal reducer is a 2" barrel so I may try installing my IR/UV filter and give it a go. I'm in Botle 7 right now and have been imaging the Wizard Nebula.
I see Optolong filters are on sale. I'm thinking L Extreme. What is your opinion?
Thanks
It's a tricky issue, and not well documented other than on discussion boards. Here's one of the better threads on the topic from Cloudy Nights:
www.cloudynights.com/topic/912545-antlia-quad-band-awful-halos-help-set-up-issue-or-bad-filter/
The images posted by the topic starter match exactly what I'm experiencing. The discussion goes further to say that it is not entirely infra-red but near-infa-red frequencies that are causing the issue, and only with certain camera types.
Comparing the pass-through graphs of both filters the quad goes further into the low 400's than the tri which is the near-infra-red space:
www.antliafilter.com/pd.jsp?fromColId=2&id=136
www.antliafilter.com/pd.jsp?fromColId=2&id=151
Unfortunately, I don't have any Optolong filters, but I have imaged with people who do, and I've seen nice results from both the L Extreme and the L Pro. In general, the worse your sky conditions, the more aggressive you would want your filters. I prefer to shoot in narrow band myself, however there are situations where that's not an option, such as reflection and dark nebulae and galaxies. For those types of targets, I think you would want the least-restrictive filter which would pair with your sky conditions.
I'm able to mount my Optolog IR/UV on my Starizona focal reducer. I'll be able to test it out tonight. I shoot a couple of hours of the Wizard Nebula so I can compare with my earlier stacks. I have a 3 hour stack of the nebula also at F/10 (2032mm). I hope this fix will improve F/10 imaging.
I'm looking at Askar D1 duo Ha/Oiii. They are supposed to be good and have better halo control than Optolong and Antlia. Close to the price of the L Extreme.
Thanks
Good luck KJ, I hope this works for you.
Just get the RGB Ultra filter. The whole point of the Quad is the UV and IR, cutting it out cripples the filter.
Hi Rob, I appreciate the comment, but these are expensive filters which some people have bought not realizing that they are not simply light-pollution filters. Just spending another $200+ on a different filter is not always an option! There are those who try to make the most out of these filters by adding a UV/IR Cut filter to their imaging train and trying to use them as RGB filters, and that's what this video covers - and since the results are not fantastic, it might actually save someone the hassle and few bucks it would take to add a UV/IR Cut filter themselves. CS!
Hi, Very interesting I've recently purchased the Svbony 405CC which essentially is an ASI 294CC but has no UV IR cut filter, it would appear to be a good solution as I currently use just an Altair CLS CCD filter mainly on a 585CC planetary camera which does have an IR UV fitted. Incidentally the 585 with its small pixels is working out amazingly on DSOs wide field with my Evolux 62ed & reducer/field flattener, guided on an AZgti mount, for a cheap planetary camera on DSOs I would highly recommend it..a recent M31 composition with 150subs has been extremely good yielding well defined dust lanes and Ha in spiral arms, but not much in blue.
The 405 CC with its larger pixels I plan to use with my old C100 ED-R & Orion reducer mounted on a now tuned AVX mount. @ bin 2X2 Sampling this appears pretty good and will give a lot more reach. I've now fully tuned the AVX but still went out and bought some belts and drive wheels from Amazon with some modification these should fit the AVX, whether or not this will improve any backlash issues I have no idea, but will give it a try with or without belts. I also have a lovely old 9.25inch SCT originally made in the USA, A bit heavy for me to lift now but used this scope a lot for visual astronomy many moons ago loved it, also for planetary imaging with modded Sony ccd webcam & the then new Registax software .. Might be interesting to see how the AVX copes with weight of this scope although when first bought it came with Advanced GT EQ5 which barely handled it, I still have the old EQ5 but retro fitted the ioptron Gotonova upgrade motor/handset kit 15yrs ago after the original celestron motors/control pcb failed.. I plan also to use the SVbony 405CC, the Celestron SCT focal reducer and plenty of patience with 1min subs or less in my bortle 5 skies near Portsmouth UK..I'd love an off axis guider but now retired and on a budget a 50mm guide scope and any old gear laying about will now have to suffice.. Best wishes, always keen to see your videos, take care(apologies if I ramble a bit😂) .. Atb Tom.
Hey Tom, interesting comment (also, thank you for your comment, ramble on as much as you like!). I've been pondering what the outcome would be of pairing a high-pixel-density planetary camera with a short focal length ED refractor. Obviously you'd be limited by the resolving power of a smaller optics scope, but the overall image quality would be pretty good, I think. Celestron sells the AVX with a 9.25, so it aught to be able to 'handle' it, but whether it can throw it around with ease is another question. Unfortunately that's outside of my realm of experience, but wish you the best of luck, and clear skies, to test out!
Hi Tom, I got a notification of a comment from you re. an image you wanted to share, but can't find the comment here. I have a Discord server set up for exactly that purpose. You are welcome to join! Here's the link:
discord.gg/3ENG4ACF
@@Felldisulfide Hi, I apologise for time getting back to you with my M31 image, just hooked up to Discord and looks as if the link you sent has expired.. Regards Tom..