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Thanks Tich, I think it's the UV - the Antlia Quad permits UV from around 760nm to just over 800nm, while the Optolong cuts off at somewhere north of 710nm (hard to tell from the graph). The Antlia Tri-Band also cuts off at the low 700's which would block much of the UV. Good luck to you next week, third time's the charm.

Thanks, welcome to the channel!

Hello, I am new to this hobby ( skilled as it is ) and supper stoked. I'm 65. I really enjoy your approach to learning ,But, as I said, I'm old. We,I, used Flow Charts to show our steps;) Is there a way you could maybe put a chart out for us??? Thanks and Happy New Year!!!

Hi Leon, thanks for the comment, and welcome to astrophotography! Are you looking for an image capture workflow or image processing?

@Felldisulfide hey buddy, wow, thanks for responding!! I would guess the image capture to start. I'm just now looking up for first time, right now,lol. I have a celestron se5 and am waiting on my wifi. Trying to get ducks in a row. Looking forward to keeping up with your channel!!! Thanks very much!!

Ok - your mount should have a built-in wedge, so you have that working for you, although you're going to have to go through a bit of a learning curve on how to Polar Align with it. For starters, watch the following videos from @astrobackyard ruclips.net/video/2zHvT_XHRl8/видео.htmlsi=3aue9yZUNmJrHNjF ruclips.net/video/Oj1lDHS6Qi0/видео.htmlsi=XdrQGINs07y5pP-W Next, have a look at these two videos from my channel - the first is all about wedges; you will need to understand how they work before you start! The second is about imaging with the 6SE, but most of the concepts will apply to you. You will have the same type of visual back for your telescope. ruclips.net/video/nzuPreeQL_4/видео.htmlsi=rCV5rBfjA7Y56YN0 ruclips.net/video/OK31FFJas2c/видео.htmlsi=UF2_lNkvpv5AX-HN The process for capturing and processing images is generally referred to as a workflow (because generally there are no decision points as in a flow chart). As a matter of fact, many astrophotographers have shared their workflows either on RUclips, Cloudy Nights, or other online resources. I have used the Power of AI to have ChatGPT produce the following for you (with some tweaks): --- Step-by-Step Guide for Capturing Astrophotography Images Using a DSLR and an ALT-AZ Mounted Telescope on a Wedge Preparation 1. Plan Your Imaging Session: - Use astronomy software (e.g., Stellarium, SkySafari) to identify the target object and its visibility window. - Check the weather forecast for clear skies. - Ensure your location has minimal light pollution (or use light pollution filters). 2. Equipment Setup: - Mount the ALT-AZ telescope on the wedge, ensuring the wedge is properly attached and stable. - Attach the DSLR camera to the telescope using a T-ring and adapter. - Use a focal reducer if necessary to widen the field of view and reduce exposure times. 3. Initial Configuration of the NexStar Mount: - Power on the NexStar mount and initialize the hand controller. - Enter the following information when prompted: - Location: Input your latitude and longitude coordinates. Use a GPS device or an app to get accurate values. - Time Zone: Select your time zone from the menu (e.g., UTC-5 for Eastern Standard Time). - Date and Time: Enter the current date and time, ensuring that AM/PM settings or 24-hour format are correct. - Daylight Savings Time: Indicate whether daylight savings time is in effect. - Confirm the settings and proceed to alignment. 4. Polar Alignment: - Adjust the wedge to align the telescope with the celestial pole (North for Northern Hemisphere, South for Southern Hemisphere). - Use tools like a polar scope or software-assisted alignment for accuracy. - Fine-tune alignment using the telescope's mount controls. Performing Polar Alignment with the Celestron NexStar 6SE Hand Controller: - After attaching the telescope to the wedge, power on the mount and select "EQ North Align" or "EQ South Align" from the alignment options on the hand controller. - Choose a bright star near the celestial equator and meridian. - Center the star in the telescope's eyepiece using the arrow keys on the hand controller and press "Enter." - The telescope will then slew to the star's expected position. Adjust the wedge's altitude and azimuth bolts to center the star in the eyepiece. - Repeat the process with additional stars if prompted by the hand controller for increased accuracy. Performing the All-Star Polar Alignment (ASPA) Procedure for NexStar 5SE: - Complete an initial two-star alignment or three-star alignment using the hand controller. - Select "Polar Align" from the hand controller menu under the "Align" settings. - Choose a bright star for alignment from the list provided. - The telescope will slew to the chosen star. Center the star in the eyepiece using the hand controller and press "Enter." - The mount will then calculate and indicate adjustments needed for the wedge. - Use the wedge’s altitude and azimuth knobs to physically center the star in the eyepiece. - Confirm the adjustments by pressing "Align" on the hand controller. The system is now polar-aligned. 5. Balance the Telescope: - Balance the telescope with the DSLR attached to avoid strain on the motors. - Ensure both the declination and right ascension axes are balanced. Capturing the Images 6. Initial Calibration: - Power on the mount and perform a two-star or three-star alignment to ensure accurate tracking. - Slew to a bright star and focus using a Bahtinov mask or live view on the DSLR. 7. Set Camera Parameters: - Switch the DSLR to manual mode. - Adjust ISO (e.g., ISO 800-1600 for a balance between noise and sensitivity). - Set the exposure time (start with 30-60 seconds, depending on tracking and target brightness). - Use RAW format for capturing images. - Enable noise reduction (optional, as calibration frames will be used later). 8. Target Framing: - Access the "Menu" on the hand controller and select "Sky Tour" or "Database" to find your desired target. - Use the directional arrows to scroll through objects or search by name or catalog number. - Once the target is selected, press "Enter" to confirm. - The mount will slew to the target. Use the arrow keys to fine-tune the positioning if needed. - Use the camera’s live view or capture short exposures to frame the object correctly. 9. Capture Calibration Frames: - Darks: Cover the camera and capture frames with the same settings as light frames to record sensor noise. - Flats: Use an evenly illuminated surface to capture flat-field frames, correcting for dust and vignetting. - Bias: Use the shortest exposure time to capture the camera's read noise. 10. Capture Light Frames: - Use an intervalometer or software to automate capturing multiple exposures (e.g., 30-100 images). - Periodically check framing and focus during the session. - Dither between frames if your mount or software supports it to reduce noise. Post-Capture 11. Power Down Equipment: - Turn off the mount and camera. - Safely detach and store the DSLR, telescope, and other accessories. 12. Transfer Images: - Copy all light, dark, flat, and bias frames to your computer. - Organize files by date, target, and type for easier processing later. Tips for Success - Use a remote shutter release or intervalometer to avoid vibrations. - Monitor tracking accuracy and make small adjustments if needed. - Consider using guiding equipment for longer exposures and better results. - Be patient and experiment with different settings to optimize image quality. ---

Hi GJ, not a lot of shooting happening here in Southern Ontario, but let me see if I can help. The way I understand it, a good spotting scope gives you great magnification, with an aperture sized to give you enough light to see the target, usually in daylight conditions. Unless you've hidden your target deep in a dark forest, in which case, best for me not to ask too many questions. Astronomy binoculars have big apertures, but they are not usually high magnification (in this price range), this is because many objects in the sky are not actually that small. 20x magnification for a spotting scope seems to be considered wide angle. These particular binoculars zoom from 15x to 35x. They have a large aperture of 70mm, and at 35x, they would probably work for shorter distances. However, once you get to 400-500 yards, you'd be looking for a higher magnification.

Thanks! I appreciate the comment, CS!

I have several videos on aligning the NexStar mount for astrophotography, but it sounds like you are asking about alignment for visual use in Alt-Az mode. For that, you should check out these two videos from The Astro Explorers RUclips channel @AstroExplorers : STAR ALIGNMENT with the Celestron NexStar 8se! How to use SkyAlign! ruclips.net/video/C7XHPVQZOFM/видео.htmlsi=aeNPS8CENgQr1TGF How to Use 2 Star Auto Align with your Celestron NexStar 8se: Part 1 ruclips.net/video/g_Qg6CrDaNA/видео.htmlsi=4H06Yf3bBHqlGcJ8 My personal favourite method is 2 Star Auto Align. If you have a star chart, or planetarium app on your phone and can locate two bright stars, this is the fastest way to get started. Clear Skies!

Hi Rob, I appreciate the comment, but these are expensive filters which some people have bought not realizing that they are not simply light-pollution filters. Just spending another $200+ on a different filter is not always an option! There are those who try to make the most out of these filters by adding a UV/IR Cut filter to their imaging train and trying to use them as RGB filters, and that's what this video covers - and since the results are not fantastic, it might actually save someone the hassle and few bucks it would take to add a UV/IR Cut filter themselves. CS!

With any luck, those skies will come soon enough!

Yes, however you will get field rotation. This is not an issue for visual observing but will cause issues for imaging.

Thanks! The weather's been unpredictable, we might have to make due with a few hours here and there, which makes setting up and tearing down a hassle for little return! That said, Clear Skies to you as well!

11:54 nevermind. I got my answer. Tks

Haha! Thank you for the comment! It's a very good all-around telescope. I just got a second one for visual. Clear skies!

Thanks for the comment, and best of luck with the processing!

Thanks Tich, I hope you get a chance to image and get your mind off things. All the best, mate!

weathers awful here again & I'll be in hospital for round 2 Wednesday so I hope my blood pressure doesn't drop this time.

Thoughts and prayers buddy. For the operation (and the weather).

It's on my 'roadmap'. I figure there's a progression to imaging and control software which goes from simplest to most complex. APT was just at the level I needed it to be, and I've been holding off on NINA because I did not presently need anything else that it did. However, I'm reaching a point where it would be helpful to automatically re-center based on plate solving every so often, and I think NINA can do that (if not as a feature, then by programming multiple plans for the same target). Clear Skies, Jesus!

Haha! Thanks! I thought the flaming horse hair would be a nice touch. By the way, I liked your flip-off-lid observatory idea, that seems like a great solution and alternative to roll-off-roofs if you don't want something too permanent.

@Felldisulfide Thanks. And the whole thing was constructed in a few hours.

Hi Nick, thanks for the question! The 8SE is a fantastic telescope, so first of all, congratulations. Now, to answer your question - as you probably know, the purpose of equatorial mounts, whether they are wedges, GEMs, or other, is to put your telescope into the same plane (or path) of motion as the objects in the sky. Without this, you will get field rotation. Have a look at the following discussion thread on Cloudy Nights: www.cloudynights.com/topic/745904-calculator-for-field-rotation-on-altaz-mounts/ One of the links from that discussion goes to the following graph: calgary.rasc.ca/field_rotation.htm#pixels Basically, the further you are from 0 declination and the Meridian, the worse your field rotation will be. At the equator and pointing fairly South, you might be able to do 30s exposures, but the further away you get, you might be limited to as few as 5s. Your sweet spot in most areas of the sky will be 10-15s. The other thing that you will have to consider is the quality of your mount. Some alt-az mounts are better than others - your NexStar mount might be slightly better than mine, or slightly worse. Most alt-az mounts will encounter periodic error, and that will limit you as much as field rotation. I know I can't image longer than 30s unguided with my mount before it 'shimmies'. In fact, unguided, I never go longer than 15s. What can you image with 15s exposures and 2032mm focal length? Globular clusters, open clusters, planetary nebulae, brighter galaxies. As for other emission or reflection nebulae, you will be able to image small portions, but these are actually quite huge. Many nebulea are best captured in wide field at short focal lengths of 300-400mm. I'm sure you will have a fun time with your setup! Clear skies!

IMHO, you'd be looking at a used Celestron GT or SLT. You could also look at a small used MEADE Mak, but as good as those telescopes are, MEADE has gone out of business and shuttered their website, so getting software and support would be a challenge. The Celestron GT and SLT mounts are both go-to, and strong enough to handle a 6" SCT (they sell those models in Europe) for visual. They actually work quite well as star trackers as you can see from this video. A used 102 SLT makes a nice starter scope if you can find it cheap. The 102GT is longer, at 1000mm, which makes it more difficult to view objects higher in the sky, but it is also far less expensive. I just saw one selling close to where I live for $100 CDN. Here's my video about the GT: ruclips.net/video/-1yvJFIeXfI/видео.html The 102GT sold for $200 USD at Costco when it was released, and it was one of those rare unicorns that actually had pretty good optics for the price. You can look up some of the reviews on Cloudy Nights - it has a reputation as a great bargain find.

I have gone through three power supplies already... This is a very common problem with remote setups using any mount. The cord wrap setting in CPWI has to be set every time you start CPWI. It seems to keep when you park/unpark, but I'm still weary of picking targets on the other side of the sky. In order to minimize risk, I 'hop' to get closer to the meridian before picking a far away target. I have break-away cables for almost all connections except for the main mount power supply, so the damage is minimal when anything happens.

Hey Rob, pleasure meeting you today. Look forward to seeing you at the December meeting, or at an observing night (if and when we see some clear skies)!

Hi KJ, from what I have seen, your camera does not have a built-in UV/IR Cut filter, so I would expect for you to be seeing a similar issue. The star bloating wasn't so much halos as stars losing their colour and appearing as larger 'blobs' rather than pinpoint compared to using a UV/IR Cut filter alone. I'm curious what your experience has been with regards to the star size/shapes and colour tones in your images. The best example I can give you of the difference I'm seeing is in the following video- just scan through it until it gets to the comparison of the three filters. ruclips.net/video/nDh8mu7PqBo/видео.html At the time I made the 3-filter video, I thought I had a focus issue, it wasn't until later that I did more research and found that the UV/IR Cut problem had already been identified by others. You can mount the UV/IR Cut filter in front of your OAG, it should actually help with guiding as it will reduce the halos in your guide stars. You can also image composites where you shoot the stars with the UV/IR Cut filter, and overlay them into your nebula images shot with the quad. Video on compositing stars: ruclips.net/video/tz0KYVduMaM/видео.html The tri-band does not have this problem as it is limited to RGB, where-as what makes the quad seems to be the addition of the frequencies which intersect with ultra-violet and infrared.

Thank you. I'm looking at the Antlia Quad specs and at AstroAgena the specs are quoted Wavelength: H-alpha: 656.3nm S-II: 671.6nm, 672.4nm O-III: 495.9nm, 500.7nm NII: 658.3nm, 654.8nm The Optolong IR/UV specs 95% transmission at visible spectral region 420-680nm highly passing the major nebula emission lines of H-Alpha 656nm, SII 672nm and NII 654nm and 658nm. Ultraviolet 300-400nm and infrared wavelength 700-1100nm cut-off. It appears the Quad filter specs shouldn't allow at IR or UV. I'm not saying you're wrong but as a newbie I'm wondering how to reconcile the issue. The Starizona focal reducer is a 2" barrel so I may try installing my IR/UV filter and give it a go. I'm in Botle 7 right now and have been imaging the Wizard Nebula. I see Optolong filters are on sale. I'm thinking L Extreme. What is your opinion? Thanks

It's a tricky issue, and not well documented other than on discussion boards. Here's one of the better threads on the topic from Cloudy Nights: www.cloudynights.com/topic/912545-antlia-quad-band-awful-halos-help-set-up-issue-or-bad-filter/ The images posted by the topic starter match exactly what I'm experiencing. The discussion goes further to say that it is not entirely infra-red but near-infa-red frequencies that are causing the issue, and only with certain camera types. Comparing the pass-through graphs of both filters the quad goes further into the low 400's than the tri which is the near-infra-red space: www.antliafilter.com/pd.jsp?fromColId=2&id=136 www.antliafilter.com/pd.jsp?fromColId=2&id=151 Unfortunately, I don't have any Optolong filters, but I have imaged with people who do, and I've seen nice results from both the L Extreme and the L Pro. In general, the worse your sky conditions, the more aggressive you would want your filters. I prefer to shoot in narrow band myself, however there are situations where that's not an option, such as reflection and dark nebulae and galaxies. For those types of targets, I think you would want the least-restrictive filter which would pair with your sky conditions.

I'm able to mount my Optolog IR/UV on my Starizona focal reducer. I'll be able to test it out tonight. I shoot a couple of hours of the Wizard Nebula so I can compare with my earlier stacks. I have a 3 hour stack of the nebula also at F/10 (2032mm). I hope this fix will improve F/10 imaging. I'm looking at Askar D1 duo Ha/Oiii. They are supposed to be good and have better halo control than Optolong and Antlia. Close to the price of the L Extreme. Thanks

Good luck KJ, I hope this works for you.

LOL ok, you actually had me laughing out loud :) For the record, I have no control over what ads, if any, RUclips plays, but if they were what you said, that's hilarious! I bet both were invented by some neighbourhood teenager who did not want to capitalize on his inventions, and instead wants only to help the world! As to your other question, yes, if you are always going to image from the same location, you can build a fixed wedge set to that latitude. Not sure if you have seen my video on wedges, but that might help you design one. Here's the link: ruclips.net/video/nzuPreeQL_4/видео.htmlsi=NkBMO-cXReaOIldT Thanks again for the comment - too funny!!!

Hi Danilo, I'm using the 90 diagonal and the eyepiece from my NexStar 6SE. I agree, the eyepiece that comes with the 102GT is not very good. You could try the 25mm SVBONY PLOSSL - it's not a premium eyepiece, but it's better than what you are currently using and also not that expensive. I have the 32mm SVBONY which is too wide-field, but I enjoy using with the 102GT as well.

Sadly, I'm pretty much where the X is on this map www.cleardarksky.com/lp/MiltonONlp.html?Mn=focuser

Thanks Stefan!

Hi Dave, I made it manually by putting pixel-sized points on a black background in an image editor (probably Paint). Here's a link to a few versions: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1vPDTNFbSREBS3Ap14VxH1ddatArcybMu?usp=sharing

Thanks Tom! I appreciate the comment!

Thanks Tom, I think there are similarities between imaging reflection nebulae and galaxies. From a capture and processing standpoint, a galaxy comes out much like a reflection nebula: a cloudy mass that is difficult to separate from the background sky glow as it's details are very faint. I have not tried the Cats Eye yet, but it is on my list! Clear Skies!

Lol, I just wasted another one the other night!

Hi Alan, at the time, I could not find a grooved vixen dovetail that would fit flush against the OTA that was long enough. The one I ended up getting had a flat back, so I had to mount it against the existing dovetail. As it turns out, the extra clearance I get by doubling-up the dovetail allows me to mount the finder on the left-hand side of the scope where it would not otherwise fit. However, If I could find a single dovetail that would fit properly, I would think about switching to save on weight. Clear Skies!

Thanks! UPPDMAT came out of me looking for a way to filter out weird anomalies I was getting in my images. Bright gradients in the center, large rings, etc. that were being caused by bright sky glow and other light pollution. Basically, you use a diffuser to take images of the sky so that you get all the weird anomalies, but no stars, using the same settings and duration as your lights. You then use those in place of flats and darks because they already contain all bad pixels, vignetting, and sensor glow. They are not perfect, and don't work as well for narrow band, and you do need a lot of them, so it takes some time, but they have helped a nimber of people. Have a look at this video New Approach To Reducing Light Pollution Using UPPDMAT Sky Flats In Bortle 8 Skies ruclips.net/video/uqJsSUXwcZM/видео.html

Thanks Tich! Man, can't believe your weather! Come to Canada, we get at least one or two clear nights a month! Seriously though, I was taken aback by how bad the light pollution has gotten here. That time lapse of the scope tracking was shot with a 14mm Rokinon running fully open at 10s exposures, but even so, you can't make anything out in the left hand side of the frame. Check out JOAstroGuy, he just dis a video on M78 in wide field. He got really nice results. There's a lot there to take in with the right scope and conditions! ruclips.net/video/AAVIuDzU8Iw/видео.htmlsi=qQuX7vCEGZdOraX2 Clear Skies!

Thanks Stefan! This was one of my favourite videos to make. There's so much to see in Auriga, and since constellations are seasonal, it helps to know what's of interest in them when planning what to view or image. Clear Skies!

Thanks, and Clear Skies!

Thanks for the comment Rob, I'm not familiar with Affinity, but hopefully the light reduction works in a similar way. Good luck!

I dither every 5 frames, I find that works out ok for me.

@Felldisulfide great...I am guiding with 2 and 3 mins exposures and works great with my new ssag on a diy wedge , now learning about dithering, I will try to do it with Nina, cpwi through phd2. Thank you very much for your help, and your videos and experience are amazing help for me, cs!

You are most welcome, best of luck with your imaging!

Thank you, I appreciate the comment! Clear Skies!

Thanks Tich, your mount is much better than mine, but I think for me it stemmed from how many frames I was leaving out because the stars were slightly mishapen. Nebulas are, well, nebulous, so the threshold of what makes a stackable frame is a bit lower. I started by picking most frames when stacking nebulas, and then restacking with just the best frames to get stars, and that led to imaging stars separately and recombining after. Cheers, and Clear Skies!

No, this was imaged with a Rokinon 135mm f/2.0 lens and ASI294MC Pro camera. I have different setups depending on what I'm imaging. Most recent images using the 6SE include IC 63, The Ghost of Cassiopeia, Hind's Variable Nebula, The Harvest Super Moon (and Lunar eclipse - I made a video on that), and revisiting the Pac-Man nebula. I just started posting some of these images on Instagram as well. Clear Skies! instagram.com/felldisulfide/

Haha! Thanks Jay! I had fun making that video!

I'm very happy for you! Just so you know, I just got my second 6SE for doing purely visual astronomy. These really are great scopes! Clear Skies!

I used Paint in Windows. Black background, zoom in and colour individual pixels white. I started by making a grid in one corner, then copied and pasted across the rest of the image. It's important to make the image to be the same dimensions as your screen's resolution so that there is no stretching, and the "stars" will be a single pixel, ie the smallest size you can show.

@@Felldisulfide Thanks. How many pixels separate each star?

You should pick spacing based on your field of view. Between 40 and 50 pixels work for me.

@@Felldisulfide Thanks!

Couldn't agree more. Clear skies!

Hi Cameron, that sounds like a good project for the fall. In the mean time, is there anything specific with re-composition that's giving you a hard time? Aligning frames, layering detail, colour, etc?

Haha! I would love to see that when you're done!

Thanks!

Thanks Mike, I have two of the same tripod, it's the TP-PTMMC65C. It's not fantastic, but does the job. I'm 6' even, so height matters to me. www.amazon.ca/Platinum-Tripod-Monopod-PT-TPM665-C-_Black/dp/B01F63VUD6

Hi Jeff, flats make a big difference, there - I re-processed the image from this video with updated flats and the bright spot in the center calibrated right out. Best of luck with your processing, and Clear Skies!