Wow! Just wow! I had 4 of these pesky areas to deal with, that had 5mm and 12mm drops. I was scratching my head trying to figure out how to deal with the difference and BOOM, I find this video. Clear, concise and to the point. Using your method I managed 3 standard step downs and 1 outside mitre step down. Thank you and thank you again for this upload.
Absolutely incredible piece of tutorial. Iv only said this once before. Many videos seem to blend in each other. Then you come across a proper tutorial that is mind blowing the skill set you have in unparalleled. Thank you so much for posting
Thank you, thank you Dan. I'm a DIY in Dallas, Texas with wood flooring transitioning down 1/2" to tile right at the corners of an entry way and your detailed video has saved my sanity. Many thanks, I'm subscribed.
This is excellent thank you. I have to take mine one step further with an additional outside 90, bc the floor drops down on a half wall that divides the kitchen and living room.
Thanks so much for this video. I'm quite new to doing trim work and I was stumped with this exact problem today at work, and wasn't sure how to transition between the heights. This method helped me so much, and it's so simple once you've done it a couple of times.
As a finish carpenter I would have started with the lower floor and then ripped the base so the top was the same height on the higher floor. My guess is Dan did this as he does not have a table saw on sight.
My father in law has run a business for 40 year called Furniture Doctor and he makes 6 figures a year easy, I always thought it couldn't be that hard. Then I worked with him and realized it was the difficulty its the experience and attention to detail guys like Dan has.
Thank you for this video! I just remodeled my bathroom. Installed new floor & with that said why not the base boards too lol (yes all by myself) have about a 1” drop down step, I was scratching my head (googling) for a sec there. Keep up the great work & tips!
Wow, you are really a great carpenter, and what an informing video. I love how you took a most complicated problem and put it into a formula for someone else to benefit, Thank you for being who you are!
Excellent tutorial and workmanship! I have an outside corner to do from laminate floor ( high) down to slate floor. I used quarter round too any videos on how to do that? Thank you
Thanks. Typically with a bullnose corner I do two 22.5 degree angles so that a small piece goes across the bullnose corner at a 45 degree angle. Doing that with a step down detail would add a degree of challenge to it but would still be possible.
I've been thinking about how to do this for almost a year in my house transitioning from my kitchen to living room with a 1/2 inch step down. Thank you so much
Absolutely beautiful trim work. Never would have thought to do that. Will definitely try this in my new home when we redo the floors. Thanks. Great video.
I just figured it out in a few minutes when I came across the situation on site. It's not really as complicated as it seems. I've done enough of them now that I don't even think about it anymore.
@@DPShopTalk Hi Dan. So I have a job where this situation is occurring now. The only difference is there is no miters its just regular 90 corners. Basically have a 1/2" step down from some laminate flooring straight on to some stained concrete. My setup is basically a square room which has the laminate flooring and the drop occurs at the entryway to a hallway the entryway has no casing its just plaster.. So I want my base to come out of the laminate room and wrap around the 4" of entryway the wrap in to hallway. I just need it to drop down that 1/2" to concrete so all the base has the same top height.. Can I acheive that following this video but taking out the mirror part? Help, lol.
@@ShaneHolly Hi Shane, from what you've described it sounds like a similar situation to what I showed in the video. If you wanted to email me some photos I could probably give you a better answer. dan@danpattison.com
I have a 3/16" step down off of my bamboo floor install to my entryway tile. This worked out for 3/16" step down. 15 degree angles with about 1/4" step down. Glue,Caulk and sanding it is going to turn out as it should. Of coarse I have a straight run too.
+Royal Poison thanks! I started using Premiere Pro recently for my editing which I really like and gives me the flexibility and tools I need to put my videos together the way I want.
This was exactly what i was looking for! Question I need to do this exact detail on both a right and left side. Do i reverse the cutting side for the angles on the left corner?
I love this! I have a 1/2 difference in my floor after getting new tile installed. This worked out perfectly. Thanks for including the drawings and all the details!.
Hi like your video very help full for me as I’m working as handyman, how fix show molding or quarter round on top same settings? It will be great help if you can share any idea
It would be similar running quarter round although most times if there is a transition strip in the flooring, the quarter round will stop at each side of it.
OMG I LOVE YOU, thanks so much for this awesome detail description. I am going to need to do this for my kitchen on both entrances to it, I am happy you did a corner demonstration because I need do do that in one spot as well as mid way down a wall. Thanks again
Thanks for pointing this out on Instagram. I did this in my old house. I wasnt documenting my work at that time. I wish I started this video process 12 years ago.
H, I watched this video twice and I found it very interesting and amazing. I am helping doing finish work to my friend and I found it very helpful. Thank you and very good explanation.
Hi Dan! Thanks for video. I have a bullnose/rounded corner. Do I cut the middle piece on corner and that would be included as part of ur “A” piece in diagram then continue on? Thanks
you sure know your craft! We are installing molding on top of the baseboard coming down the stairs along the wall. Having a difficult time trying to figure out how to cut the angle where it transitions from sloping down the stairs at the bottom and then goes horizontal where the stairs end. Do you have a video for that? thanks, Joan
It would be the same process just with different dimensions and the pieces would be bigger. Another option if the step down is that big is to just miter the baseboard and run it straight down the step down depending on how tall the baseboard is.
This video is great. It really helps with baseboards. I have a question for you, I have a tile to wood floor transition, where the wood floor is 13/32" below the tile floor. What makes this transition difficult is that the transition is in a outer corner. The baseboard can level fine around the corner, but the 1/4" is what I am having trouble with. Any suggestions? I can email you a picture if it will help. Thanks!
Great video and very useful to see this "How To". I might have missed it in a previous video, but can you give some details on the remote switch for the shop vac..? I've been looking for something similar and am torn between the various options available.
+Simon Coupland thanks. I've been meaning to make a video about the iVac switch and how I use it but haven't gotten to it yet. I use the iVac switch both on site and in the shop to control my dust extractor. I find that it's very convenient to have the remote clipped onto my pants so that I can start or stop the vac whenever I want and where ever I am in the room. I find that I use this much more than the auto on feature that the Bosch vac has since I have complete control over it. Sometimes I want to leave the vac running longer after making a cut or keep it running if I know I'm going to be making another cut soon after. The iVac switch has worked very well for me and I would definitely recommend it. I'll put the link for it below. amzn.to/2qmVT2x
Great detail. I was intrigued just as much by the 10 minute wood glue which I have not seen here in the states. Does anyone know a source for it state side or mail order? Thanks.
Theres not really a standard angle for this but I've found that 15 degrees works well plus most miter saws have a detent at 15 degrees so it quick and easy to set the saw.
I am incredibly happy I found this, I have a 1" difference in my dining room floor into my living area. So to Confirm I would need to make piece "C" 1" versus the 1/2". Am I following correctly?
Yes if you have a 1" floor difference then you would need to use that measurement rather than the 1/2" that I used for piece C. Just remember that it won't mean that piece C is 1" wide. You'll need to measure a 1" downward projection like I did with the small graduated square to determine the actual cut mark.
Really clean solution, top notch. Small quibble, but wouldn't it be easier to do the stepping down on the other side of the corner, on the higher flooring? That would eliminate the need for piece E.
Thanks Keith. It all depends on where the transition in flooring height happens. I've had situations where I haven't needed piece E because the flooring changed in a different spot. I was trying to cover the worst case scenario in the video for a situation where you would need piece E.
Great way to handle a tough spot Dan. Another way to skin that cat is to use a transition plenty block that each base elevation runs into. Thanks for your informative videos, keep them coming.
I have a similar situation. However, it deals with a step up from a regular cabinet to the refrigerator cabinet. It's 2" higher. I'm an Electronics Technician, retired. Installed LED lights above, under and in all of the cabinets. To accommodate the Wife's bigger fridge, we had to raise the cabinet. It's a straight virtical change. Any suggestions for my Crown molding.
How big is the crown? Ideally the crown on the lower cabinets would stop at the taller cabinet and then have a different run of crown on the taller cabinet.
So my question is how did u decide on the 15° angle for the step down? Is it an arbitrary angle, or determined by the difference between the two floors?
The 15 degrees is somewhat arbitrary. I chose it for 2 reasons. One, it is a standard detent on most miter saws, and two it looks good and works well for most flooring height differences.
I love it great work. I do this stuff for a living 2 so I get it. But it took me a min. So just a suggestion work on your explanation a bit. Describe why ur making each cut. The reason behind making it fit together a certain way. I mean I got it once u started peicing it together. But 2 the lame, the ones who are going to decide if ur channel lives or dies. U might wanna describe why ur doing what ur doing while ur doing it. But just a suggestion. And either way good work man. Looks awesome!! Great attention to detail. Cause I've seen some shabby stuff in similar situations. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Shaun. I see what you're saying, but at the same time there is always a balance between enough detail and making the video too long. When I make these videos, I constantly have to fight my natural tendency to go into great detail when explaining things. I try and hit a middle ground that will keep the video at a decent length while still providing enough detail to allow the majority of people to 'get it'. If a video is too long then most people won't bother to watch it in the first place. A video can always be watched multiple times to get everything or questions asked in the comments if needed. One of the more common comments I get back from viewers is that they like that my videos move along and I don't ramble on about things for too long. I guess basically what it boils down to is that you can't make everyone happy so you just have to go with what the majority likes. Having said all of that, thanks for the feedback though, I appreciate it👍
I’m needing to trim out a wall which has drywall and a tiled wall. It’s only 3/8 “ difference in depth so I am stumped ow to make that transition because it is such. A small difference. What do I do to have a successful transition?
I always glue outside corners when I'm installing baseboard. I preassemble all my joints before the baseboard gets nailed on and I find it makes for a much better job.
This is great but very confusing for me as I have to make a lower flooring meet a corner where the angle turns to the left and steps up? Can you give me the pieces (1 through 5 angles going into the step up. Very confusing but looks nice.
Hi Dan, great video. Not sure I like how the transition looks, I might have preferred to rip down or thicken up the board to give an even level all round (or hidden it somewhere). However, what's great is that you are a craftsman who takes the time and care to deliver a finished product that you are proud to show to a customer. Too many tradesmen would just bodge that corner and not bother to sand down and fill to finish the job. Keep up the great work.
+John Petry thanks! I'll put the link for the pants below. They are the Blaklader Brawny pants and they are extremely practical. They are all I wear for work now and have held up very well over the past few years. Blaklader Brawny Pants - amzn.to/2ibIEQ1
Lol yeah that's the critical part. I'm assuming that you're referring to using inches instead of metric. The funny thing is Canada is a metric country but for some reason just about everyone still builds in imperial. I do use metric more as time goes on but still mostly imperial so that I'm talking the same language as other trades on job sites.
@@DPShopTalk exactly. But also the way you describe the right angle tool edge etc.. doesnt matter as I got it. Got my project done over the weekend thanks to you so many thanks! :)
Howdy Dan, nice finish but can I ask - where does the 15 deg come from? When I do these I just Mitre 45 down to vertical then Mitre back to horizontal. My method creates a STEP down yours is more of a slope which I think looks nicer. My method also causes me issues because (using your scenario) the Mitre cut isn't contained within the baseboard, so I would have to position my mitre cut further away from the corner meaning the filler piece E is 4 inches or more and has to be cut on the table saw... More work for no extra benefit.
+Mike Stephens the 15 degrees just seemed like a good angle to go with and has worked well for me. It's also a standard detent angle on most miter saws so it's quickly repeatable.
Wow great job ill have to watch this a few more times to fully grasp it lol. I really like those tool belt pants your are wearing. What are they called? Where can you buy them?
Dan just subscribed to your channel and even tho your baseboard step down was 1year old it was very helpful Just one question do those cuts still apply for a 4 to 6 inch step down I’m only a Diy er thanks mate
Thanks for the subscription Phil. Yes you could use the same cuts for a 4 to 6" stepdown. You would just need to cut a larger triangle piece to fill in at the bottom of the sloped piece.
@@DPShopTalk thank you, it would probably be great content if you revisited this technique for a straight run you are the only person that I found that has any video like this. Greatly appreciated
It just seemed to be an angle that worked. It's somewhat arbitrary and could be adjusted. One factor is that it's usually a detent angle on most miter saws
Wow! Just wow! I had 4 of these pesky areas to deal with, that had 5mm and 12mm drops. I was scratching my head trying to figure out how to deal with the difference and BOOM, I find this video. Clear, concise and to the point. Using your method I managed 3 standard step downs and 1 outside mitre step down. Thank you and thank you again for this upload.
Every time I need to re-create this detail, I come back to this video! ty!!
Absolutely incredible piece of tutorial. Iv only said this once before. Many videos seem to blend in each other. Then you come across a proper tutorial that is mind blowing the skill set you have in unparalleled. Thank you so much for posting
Thank you, thank you Dan. I'm a DIY in Dallas, Texas with wood flooring transitioning down 1/2" to tile right at the corners of an entry way and your detailed video has saved my sanity. Many thanks, I'm subscribed.
Glad to hear it was a help👍
This is excellent thank you. I have to take mine one step further with an additional outside 90, bc the floor drops down on a half wall that divides the kitchen and living room.
Thanks so much for this video. I'm quite new to doing trim work and I was stumped with this exact problem today at work, and wasn't sure how to transition between the heights. This method helped me so much, and it's so simple once you've done it a couple of times.
Man, this is why finish carpenters are worth every penny. Really nice detail.
+Mike Fratto thanks!
As a finish carpenter I would have started with the lower floor and then ripped the base so the top was the same height on the higher floor. My guess is Dan did this as he does not have a table saw on sight.
My father in law has run a business for 40 year called Furniture Doctor and he makes 6 figures a year easy, I always thought it couldn't be that hard. Then I worked with him and realized it was the difficulty its the experience and attention to detail guys like Dan has.
I don't know why they have to be from Finland to do this?
I'm from Canada
Thank you for this video! I just remodeled my bathroom. Installed new floor & with that said why not the base boards too lol (yes all by myself) have about a 1” drop down step, I was scratching my head (googling) for a sec there. Keep up the great work & tips!
Great video. I wonder though, how well the pieces that go around the corner will fit after they are glues in the shop.
GREAT video Dan. When people pay attention to the little details, it sure is reflected in the finished product.
Very well done.
+Sebastopolmark thanks!
Wow, you are really a great carpenter, and what an informing video. I love how you took a most complicated problem and put it into a formula for someone else to benefit, Thank you for being who you are!
+Heather Bowles thanks, glad you found it helpful!
Excellent tutorial and workmanship! I have an outside corner to do from laminate floor ( high) down to slate floor. I used quarter round too any videos on how to do that? Thank you
Thanks! This is the only video I have on this situation/technique.
After watching this helpful video, you have a new subscriber! Thanks Dan for taking the time to help others learn new techniques.
The link you list for the Bosch miter saw goes to a single bevel saw, yet the one you use in this video is a dual bevel?
Brilliant! Dan, you are a true craftsman and an inspiration.
+Welsh Rabbit thanks very much!
Great work Dan. How would I accomplish this with the bullnose corners
Thanks. Typically with a bullnose corner I do two 22.5 degree angles so that a small piece goes across the bullnose corner at a 45 degree angle. Doing that with a step down detail would add a degree of challenge to it but would still be possible.
I've been thinking about how to do this for almost a year in my house transitioning from my kitchen to living room with a 1/2 inch step down. Thank you so much
Very helpful and easy to follow. Thank you!
Absolutely beautiful trim work. Never would have thought to do that. Will definitely try this in my new home when we redo the floors. Thanks. Great video.
+Ian Knottenbelt thanks, glad you found it helpful!
Like watching an engineer complete a wood working task - impressive work and cool idea.
+afidram lol thanks. I was going to go into engineering after high school but decided that wasn't the way I wanted to go.
Wow, how in the hell did you figure all that out. I WOULD LOVE TO SEE A VIDEO ON THAT PROCESS. True art, wow.
I just figured it out in a few minutes when I came across the situation on site. It's not really as complicated as it seems. I've done enough of them now that I don't even think about it anymore.
@@DPShopTalk Hi Dan. So I have a job where this situation is occurring now. The only difference is there is no miters its just regular 90 corners.
Basically have a 1/2" step down from some laminate flooring straight on to some stained concrete.
My setup is basically a square room which has the laminate flooring and the drop occurs at the entryway to a hallway the entryway has no casing its just plaster..
So I want my base to come out of the laminate room and wrap around the 4" of entryway the wrap in to hallway. I just need it to drop down that 1/2" to concrete so all the base has the same top height..
Can I acheive that following this video but taking out the mirror part? Help, lol.
@@ShaneHolly Hi Shane, from what you've described it sounds like a similar situation to what I showed in the video. If you wanted to email me some photos I could probably give you a better answer. dan@danpattison.com
@@DPShopTalk ok I will do that when I get there tomorrow.. thanks
You sure bailed me out of a “ jamb”. Made some mistakes but finally got it done. Thanks a lot!
I just had this problem followed your instructions perfect fit thank you very much
Dude, this was so helpful. I really appreciate it cuz this was exactly my problem. Thank you!
Glad you found it helpful!
I have a 3/16" step down off of my bamboo floor install to my entryway tile. This worked out for 3/16" step down. 15 degree angles with about 1/4" step down. Glue,Caulk and sanding it is going to turn out as it should. Of coarse I have a straight run too.
Great video. Top notch editing. Well done Dan.
+Royal Poison thanks! I started using Premiere Pro recently for my editing which I really like and gives me the flexibility and tools I need to put my videos together the way I want.
This was exactly what i was looking for! Question I need to do this exact detail on both a right and left side. Do i reverse the cutting side for the angles on the left corner?
Yes the cuts would be reversed for the other side.
I love this! I have a 1/2 difference in my floor after getting new tile installed. This worked out perfectly. Thanks for including the drawings and all the details!.
Hi like your video very help full for me as I’m working as handyman, how fix show molding or quarter round on top same settings? It will be great help if you can share any idea
It would be similar running quarter round although most times if there is a transition strip in the flooring, the quarter round will stop at each side of it.
Thanks Dan. Great tip. I had the same situation in my place and i did pretty ugly job , now i know how to fix it .
+Serj Prihodko glad you found it helpful!
What a sick video. I have this exact piece to make and will be following this video second by second as i go. Thanks man!
Woah woah woah sparky. You ran through those angle cuts like Flash Gordon! Imma hafta watch 3 more times 😅
OMG I LOVE YOU, thanks so much for this awesome detail description. I am going to need to do this for my kitchen on both entrances to it, I am happy you did a corner demonstration because I need do do that in one spot as well as mid way down a wall. Thanks again
This guy is on a new level
for Carl - another excellent demo!
What a great and elegant method!
+Jim Dockrell thanks Jim
Awesome presentation. Thank you, Bill
+Bill Edis thanks Bill.
Dan, that is amazing. Beautiful craftsmanship, excellent video and a perfect explanation!
+Quentin Liedtke thanks!
Thanks for pointing this out on Instagram. I did this in my old house. I wasnt documenting my work at that time. I wish I started this video process 12 years ago.
H, I watched this video twice and I found it very interesting and amazing. I am helping doing finish work to my friend and I found it very helpful. Thank you and very good explanation.
Hi Dan! Thanks for video. I have a bullnose/rounded corner. Do I cut the middle piece on corner and that would be included as part of ur “A” piece in diagram then continue on? Thanks
Yes if you have a rounded corner you can add an extra piece at the corner with two 45 deg angles rather than a sharp 90.
This guy has a soothing voice.
Amazing piece of work!
+morganthaller1 thanks!
I was looking for exactly this!! Excellent work. Now I’m going to give it a try. Thank goodness I have lots of baseboard to practice with. Lol
I’ll get this once I watch it a few hundred more times
you sure know your craft! We are installing molding on top of the baseboard coming down the stairs along the wall. Having a difficult time trying to figure out how to cut the angle where it transitions from sloping down the stairs at the bottom and then goes horizontal where the stairs end. Do you have a video for that? thanks, Joan
Unfortunately I don't have a video on that scenario. The angle finder that I used in this video makes figuring out angles much easier though.
Wow - really impressive. This is the exact problem I’m running into (1/2” difference in floors). Wish me luck while I try this!
I am working on customizing your plan for a 3-1/2” drop. Any advise would be welcomed.
It would be the same process just with different dimensions and the pieces would be bigger. Another option if the step down is that big is to just miter the baseboard and run it straight down the step down depending on how tall the baseboard is.
This video is great. It really helps with baseboards. I have a question for you, I have a tile to wood floor transition, where the wood floor is 13/32" below the tile floor. What makes this transition difficult is that the transition is in a outer corner. The baseboard can level fine around the corner, but the 1/4" is what I am having trouble with. Any suggestions? I can email you a picture if it will help. Thanks!
Dan, great details and articulation. Great video, thanks for posting!
+Christopher Harpster thanks!
Great video and very useful to see this "How To". I might have missed it in a previous video, but can you give some details on the remote switch for the shop vac..? I've been looking for something similar and am torn between the various options available.
+Simon Coupland thanks. I've been meaning to make a video about the iVac switch and how I use it but haven't gotten to it yet. I use the iVac switch both on site and in the shop to control my dust extractor. I find that it's very convenient to have the remote clipped onto my pants so that I can start or stop the vac whenever I want and where ever I am in the room. I find that I use this much more than the auto on feature that the Bosch vac has since I have complete control over it. Sometimes I want to leave the vac running longer after making a cut or keep it running if I know I'm going to be making another cut soon after. The iVac switch has worked very well for me and I would definitely recommend it. I'll put the link for it below.
amzn.to/2qmVT2x
This is an all around impressive video. Nice craftsmanship, shop, and video work, you even have a wireless remote for your vacuum system! Very nice!
Thank you!
Have you considered using CA glue? And for quicker adhesion, spraying the joint with accelerator.
Yes I have used CA glue and I do carry some with me but I've come to prefer the 10 min wood glue. I find its stronger and it's not smelly.
Great detail. I was intrigued just as much by the 10 minute wood glue which I have not seen here in the states. Does anyone know a source for it state side or mail order? Thanks.
Wow, what else can I say! Really appreciate the video and your willingness to share.
You lost me at step one ;) you were very clear but ky brain doesn't work this way!
Love the trim step down video. Curious if 15 degrees would be standard for something like this, or how to figure the correct angle. Thank you.
Theres not really a standard angle for this but I've found that 15 degrees works well plus most miter saws have a detent at 15 degrees so it quick and easy to set the saw.
Dan Pattison thak you. I have a project that is this exact problem. I appreciate it.
I am incredibly happy I found this, I have a 1" difference in my dining room floor into my living area. So to Confirm I would need to make piece "C" 1" versus the 1/2". Am I following correctly?
Yes if you have a 1" floor difference then you would need to use that measurement rather than the 1/2" that I used for piece C. Just remember that it won't mean that piece C is 1" wide. You'll need to measure a 1" downward projection like I did with the small graduated square to determine the actual cut mark.
@@DPShopTalk Thanks It worked great, I had to be extra careful as I am staining oak base. Thanks again!!
Thanks, worked great!
Thank you that was terrific.
Awesome craftsmanship. I'm inspired and have a solution. Mahalo
+Lawrence Kidder thanks, glad you found it helpful!
i wish i can give this video more than 1 thump up
Thank you for sharing! This was perfect for my homeowner DIY project. Great video!
This helped! Much appreciated!
taking your advice but thankfully I dont have a corner to worry about. Thanks!!
Really clean solution, top notch. Small quibble, but wouldn't it be easier to do the stepping down on the other side of the corner, on the higher flooring? That would eliminate the need for piece E.
Thanks Keith. It all depends on where the transition in flooring height happens. I've had situations where I haven't needed piece E because the flooring changed in a different spot. I was trying to cover the worst case scenario in the video for a situation where you would need piece E.
@@DPShopTalk Makes sense! Thanks for the idea, imma totally use that.
Hi Dan. Awesome video. Will this work with a 1/4" step down as well? Or would the angles(i.e. 15 degrees) have to change?
Thanks. Yes it would work with a 1/4" step down. It would just make for a smaller piece.
Looks awesome, it was very helpful, and look forward to seeing more great ideas. Thanks
+Andrew W thanks, glad to hear you found it helpful
Nice work Dan
+George Heath thanks George.
Absolutely beautiful job and brilliant idea, will be using this soon looks factory and clean keep up the good work!
Very inovative and informative.
This is wood alchemy ur a wizard 😜
Such a useful video.
Nicely done
Wow!!!! I think that you're better than me and that's hard for me to say keep up the good work Dan I'm going to subscribe
Great way to handle a tough spot Dan. Another way to skin that cat is to use a transition plenty block that each base elevation runs into. Thanks for your informative videos, keep them coming.
+Steve thanks. The block is a good way to deal with it too.
I have a similar situation. However, it deals with a step up from a regular cabinet to the refrigerator cabinet. It's 2" higher. I'm an Electronics Technician, retired. Installed LED lights above, under and in all of the cabinets. To accommodate the Wife's bigger fridge, we had to raise the cabinet. It's a straight virtical change. Any suggestions for my Crown molding.
How big is the crown? Ideally the crown on the lower cabinets would stop at the taller cabinet and then have a different run of crown on the taller cabinet.
So my question is how did u decide on the 15° angle for the step down? Is it an arbitrary angle, or determined by the difference between the two floors?
The 15 degrees is somewhat arbitrary. I chose it for 2 reasons. One, it is a standard detent on most miter saws, and two it looks good and works well for most flooring height differences.
I love it great work. I do this stuff for a living 2 so I get it. But it took me a min. So just a suggestion work on your explanation a bit. Describe why ur making each cut. The reason behind making it fit together a certain way. I mean I got it once u started peicing it together. But 2 the lame, the ones who are going to decide if ur channel lives or dies. U might wanna describe why ur doing what ur doing while ur doing it. But just a suggestion. And either way good work man. Looks awesome!! Great attention to detail. Cause I've seen some shabby stuff in similar situations. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Shaun. I see what you're saying, but at the same time there is always a balance between enough detail and making the video too long. When I make these videos, I constantly have to fight my natural tendency to go into great detail when explaining things. I try and hit a middle ground that will keep the video at a decent length while still providing enough detail to allow the majority of people to 'get it'. If a video is too long then most people won't bother to watch it in the first place. A video can always be watched multiple times to get everything or questions asked in the comments if needed.
One of the more common comments I get back from viewers is that they like that my videos move along and I don't ramble on about things for too long. I guess basically what it boils down to is that you can't make everyone happy so you just have to go with what the majority likes. Having said all of that, thanks for the feedback though, I appreciate it👍
I’m needing to trim out a wall which has drywall and a tiled wall. It’s only 3/8 “ difference in depth so I am stumped ow to make that transition because it is such. A small difference. What do I do to have a successful transition?
If its not a long run I would probably add a strip 3/8" thick to the baseboard to space it out on the drywall.
Nice work!
Fantastic!..Thank you so much for making this video.
That looks really good. Haha idk if I'm up for that
Wow is right, very professional.
No wait, I did it and it’s awesome!!! Great vid, thanks!!!!!!
Really nice! Thanks for sharing.
Do you often glue corners when you install baseboard?
I always glue outside corners when I'm installing baseboard. I preassemble all my joints before the baseboard gets nailed on and I find it makes for a much better job.
This is great but very confusing for me as I have to make a lower flooring meet a corner where the angle turns to the left and steps up? Can you give me the pieces (1 through 5 angles going into the step up. Very confusing but looks nice.
Hi Dan, great video. Not sure I like how the transition looks, I might have preferred to rip down or thicken up the board to give an even level all round (or hidden it somewhere). However, what's great is that you are a craftsman who takes the time and care to deliver a finished product that you are proud to show to a customer. Too many tradesmen would just bodge that corner and not bother to sand down and fill to finish the job. Keep up the great work.
+DesandSam thanks. Yeah not everyone likes the look of the step down but in the situation I used it in I think it was the best option.
Beautiful work! Slightly off topic--where'd you get those pants? They look eminently practical!
+John Petry thanks! I'll put the link for the pants below. They are the Blaklader Brawny pants and they are extremely practical. They are all I wear for work now and have held up very well over the past few years.
Blaklader Brawny Pants - amzn.to/2ibIEQ1
Is the a diagram of this type of cut. I can't find it on his website
4:45 I watched that 10 times and then got it, hearing things in North American takes me ages to convert to my brain. I've got it now! Cheers.
Lol yeah that's the critical part. I'm assuming that you're referring to using inches instead of metric. The funny thing is Canada is a metric country but for some reason just about everyone still builds in imperial. I do use metric more as time goes on but still mostly imperial so that I'm talking the same language as other trades on job sites.
@@DPShopTalk exactly. But also the way you describe the right angle tool edge etc.. doesnt matter as I got it. Got my project done over the weekend thanks to you so many thanks! :)
Howdy Dan, nice finish but can I ask - where does the 15 deg come from? When I do these I just Mitre 45 down to vertical then Mitre back to horizontal. My method creates a STEP down yours is more of a slope which I think looks nicer. My method also causes me issues because (using your scenario) the Mitre cut isn't contained within the baseboard, so I would have to position my mitre cut further away from the corner meaning the filler piece E is 4 inches or more and has to be cut on the table saw... More work for no extra benefit.
+Mike Stephens the 15 degrees just seemed like a good angle to go with and has worked well for me. It's also a standard detent angle on most miter saws so it's quickly repeatable.
Thanks! Hope I can figure this out
Well done my friend thanks a lot !!
I don't have the fancy stuff to cut wood is it possible to do it with a hand saw?
You could definitely make the cuts with a hand saw as long as you have a good quality saw and are skilled at using it.
Wow great job ill have to watch this a few more times to fully grasp it lol. I really like those tool belt pants your are wearing. What are they called? Where can you buy them?
+nick duffy the pants I wear are the Blaklader Brawny pants and I'll include a purchase link below.
amzn.to/2F0pJ4k
Great help and video thanks !!!
Dan just subscribed to your channel and even tho your baseboard step down was 1year old it was very helpful
Just one question do those cuts still apply for a 4 to 6 inch step down I’m only a Diy er thanks mate
Thanks for the subscription Phil. Yes you could use the same cuts for a 4 to 6" stepdown. You would just need to cut a larger triangle piece to fill in at the bottom of the sloped piece.
How would I compensate for a 1in step up? Would piece C instead be 1in?
Yeah, where I used the 1/2" measurement to measure down with the little square you would use 1".
@@DPShopTalk thank you, it would probably be great content if you revisited this technique for a straight run you are the only person that I found that has any video like this. Greatly appreciated
Nice going Dan 👍👍👍
+HHProgressiveconstruction thanks!
How did you figure out what angle to cut it at? The 15 degree angle I mean.
It just seemed to be an angle that worked. It's somewhat arbitrary and could be adjusted. One factor is that it's usually a detent angle on most miter saws