How To Make a Baseboard Step Down Detail + Bonus Trim Tips
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- Learn how to make a baseboard step down detail for where two different flooring thicknesses meet. You can find links and more information about all the tools I used below:
Bosch CM8S 8 1/2" Miter Saw - amzn.to/2qmMTKL
Portamate PM7000 Saw Station - amzn.to/2qn6Hh6
Freud 60 Tooth 8 1/2" Blade - amzn.to/2qmVcWT
Bosch VAC090S Dust Extractor - amzn.to/2qeKFOA
Starrett Angle Finder - amzn.to/2qmPdBs
Elipse Dust Mask - amzn.to/2oPZbdm
i-Vac Remote Vacuum Switch - amzn.to/2qmVT2x
Collins Miter Clamps - amzn.to/2oTfWFJ
Pica Mechanical Pencil - amzn.to/2qePHu9
LePage 10 Min. Wood Glue - bit.ly/2ppm3SX
Veritas Precision Square - bit.ly/2qeRAXJ
The Multi Purpose Table - www.danpattiso...
Find more tools in the DP Toolbox - www.danpattiso...
The Bosch CM8S has become my favorite miter saw for using on site. After lugging around heavier saws over the years the Bosch is light weight at 37 lbs but it also very capable and accurate. The Portamate PM7000 saw station is a great companion to CM8S with some great features and accessories. I use a Freud 60 tooth fine cut blade on my Bosch CM8S for clean and precise cuts.
For dust control I use a Bosch VAC090S dust extractor which has plenty of suction power for effective dust collection on a variety of tools. You can watch my full review of the VAC090S here - • Bosch VAC090S Dust Ext...
To turn the dust extractor on and off I like to use an i-Vac switch so that I have complete control over the operation. Some tools I will plug into the VAC090S and use it's auto activation feature but for the miter saw I prefer the i-Vac switch. For respiratory protection my favorite mask is the Elipse dust respirator. It's very effective and also very comfortable.
For working in the shop or on site, the Multi Purpose Table (MPT) is a very versatile and portable solution. To learn more about how the MPT works or to purchase plans and instructions to build your own please visit - www.danpattiso...
Three tools that I find indispensable for trim work are my Starrett angle finder, Collins miter clamps and Veritas precision square. I use the angle finder to measure the angle for every miter joint to ensure a perfect joint. It makes it quick and easy to find the exact angle to set the saw to. I pre-assemble all of my joints with the Collins miter clamps which give tight, strong joints. The Veritas square is a very handy tool for all kinds of layout and measurement work and easily fits in a pocket.
For glue I like the LePage 10 minute quick dry wood glue. There are some applications where I will use the two part instant glue but for most trim work I have come to prefer the 10 minute wood glue. There are no harmful vapors from it, it's more forgiving to work with since there is a longer open time and I find it makes for a stronger joint.
I hope you find this instructional episode helpful in your next trim project. Depending on flooring types, height differences can be fairly common so knowing how to deal with those differences when installing baseboard is helpful. If you have any questions about the process be sure to leave them in the comments below.
Any use of my Amazon affiliate links help support the DP Shop Talk channel and helps allow me to bring you more free content. Amazon gives me a small commission on all sales but there is no extra cost to you. Any use of my affiliate links is very much appreciated!
To learn more about the Multi Purpose Table (MPT) or to purchase plans please visit - www.danpattison...
For general information visit - www.danpattison...
For helpful articles and blog posts visit - www.danpattison...
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Wow! Just wow! I had 4 of these pesky areas to deal with, that had 5mm and 12mm drops. I was scratching my head trying to figure out how to deal with the difference and BOOM, I find this video. Clear, concise and to the point. Using your method I managed 3 standard step downs and 1 outside mitre step down. Thank you and thank you again for this upload.
You lost me at step one ;) you were very clear but ky brain doesn't work this way!
Every time I need to re-create this detail, I come back to this video! ty!!
Thank you for this video! I just remodeled my bathroom. Installed new floor & with that said why not the base boards too lol (yes all by myself) have about a 1” drop down step, I was scratching my head (googling) for a sec there. Keep up the great work & tips!
This is excellent thank you. I have to take mine one step further with an additional outside 90, bc the floor drops down on a half wall that divides the kitchen and living room.
Man, this is why finish carpenters are worth every penny. Really nice detail.
+Mike Fratto thanks!
As a finish carpenter I would have started with the lower floor and then ripped the base so the top was the same height on the higher floor. My guess is Dan did this as he does not have a table saw on sight.
My father in law has run a business for 40 year called Furniture Doctor and he makes 6 figures a year easy, I always thought it couldn't be that hard. Then I worked with him and realized it was the difficulty its the experience and attention to detail guys like Dan has.
I don't know why they have to be from Finland to do this?
I'm from Canada
Wow, how in the hell did you figure all that out. I WOULD LOVE TO SEE A VIDEO ON THAT PROCESS. True art, wow.
I just figured it out in a few minutes when I came across the situation on site. It's not really as complicated as it seems. I've done enough of them now that I don't even think about it anymore.
@@DPShopTalk Hi Dan. So I have a job where this situation is occurring now. The only difference is there is no miters its just regular 90 corners.
Basically have a 1/2" step down from some laminate flooring straight on to some stained concrete.
My setup is basically a square room which has the laminate flooring and the drop occurs at the entryway to a hallway the entryway has no casing its just plaster..
So I want my base to come out of the laminate room and wrap around the 4" of entryway the wrap in to hallway. I just need it to drop down that 1/2" to concrete so all the base has the same top height..
Can I acheive that following this video but taking out the mirror part? Help, lol.
@@ShaneHolly Hi Shane, from what you've described it sounds like a similar situation to what I showed in the video. If you wanted to email me some photos I could probably give you a better answer. dan@danpattison.com
@@DPShopTalk ok I will do that when I get there tomorrow.. thanks
Thanks so much for this video. I'm quite new to doing trim work and I was stumped with this exact problem today at work, and wasn't sure how to transition between the heights. This method helped me so much, and it's so simple once you've done it a couple of times.
Thank you, thank you Dan. I'm a DIY in Dallas, Texas with wood flooring transitioning down 1/2" to tile right at the corners of an entry way and your detailed video has saved my sanity. Many thanks, I'm subscribed.
Glad to hear it was a help👍
Absolutely incredible piece of tutorial. Iv only said this once before. Many videos seem to blend in each other. Then you come across a proper tutorial that is mind blowing the skill set you have in unparalleled. Thank you so much for posting
Wow, you are really a great carpenter, and what an informing video. I love how you took a most complicated problem and put it into a formula for someone else to benefit, Thank you for being who you are!
+Heather Bowles thanks, glad you found it helpful!
I've been thinking about how to do this for almost a year in my house transitioning from my kitchen to living room with a 1/2 inch step down. Thank you so much
Very helpful and easy to follow. Thank you!
GREAT video Dan. When people pay attention to the little details, it sure is reflected in the finished product.
Very well done.
+Sebastopolmark thanks!
Great video. I wonder though, how well the pieces that go around the corner will fit after they are glues in the shop.
You sure bailed me out of a “ jamb”. Made some mistakes but finally got it done. Thanks a lot!
Wow - really impressive. This is the exact problem I’m running into (1/2” difference in floors). Wish me luck while I try this!
Excellent tutorial and workmanship! I have an outside corner to do from laminate floor ( high) down to slate floor. I used quarter round too any videos on how to do that? Thank you
Thanks! This is the only video I have on this situation/technique.
Like watching an engineer complete a wood working task - impressive work and cool idea.
+afidram lol thanks. I was going to go into engineering after high school but decided that wasn't the way I wanted to go.
After watching this helpful video, you have a new subscriber! Thanks Dan for taking the time to help others learn new techniques.
The link you list for the Bosch miter saw goes to a single bevel saw, yet the one you use in this video is a dual bevel?
Thanks for pointing this out on Instagram. I did this in my old house. I wasnt documenting my work at that time. I wish I started this video process 12 years ago.
I have a 3/16" step down off of my bamboo floor install to my entryway tile. This worked out for 3/16" step down. 15 degree angles with about 1/4" step down. Glue,Caulk and sanding it is going to turn out as it should. Of coarse I have a straight run too.
Dude, this was so helpful. I really appreciate it cuz this was exactly my problem. Thank you!
Glad you found it helpful!
OMG I LOVE YOU, thanks so much for this awesome detail description. I am going to need to do this for my kitchen on both entrances to it, I am happy you did a corner demonstration because I need do do that in one spot as well as mid way down a wall. Thanks again
I love this! I have a 1/2 difference in my floor after getting new tile installed. This worked out perfectly. Thanks for including the drawings and all the details!.
Woah woah woah sparky. You ran through those angle cuts like Flash Gordon! Imma hafta watch 3 more times 😅
Absolutely beautiful trim work. Never would have thought to do that. Will definitely try this in my new home when we redo the floors. Thanks. Great video.
+Ian Knottenbelt thanks, glad you found it helpful!
Brilliant! Dan, you are a true craftsman and an inspiration.
+Welsh Rabbit thanks very much!
Great work Dan. How would I accomplish this with the bullnose corners
Thanks. Typically with a bullnose corner I do two 22.5 degree angles so that a small piece goes across the bullnose corner at a 45 degree angle. Doing that with a step down detail would add a degree of challenge to it but would still be possible.
Thanks Dan. Great tip. I had the same situation in my place and i did pretty ugly job , now i know how to fix it .
+Serj Prihodko glad you found it helpful!
H, I watched this video twice and I found it very interesting and amazing. I am helping doing finish work to my friend and I found it very helpful. Thank you and very good explanation.
I just had this problem followed your instructions perfect fit thank you very much
I was looking for exactly this!! Excellent work. Now I’m going to give it a try. Thank goodness I have lots of baseboard to practice with. Lol
Dan, that is amazing. Beautiful craftsmanship, excellent video and a perfect explanation!
+Quentin Liedtke thanks!
This was exactly what i was looking for! Question I need to do this exact detail on both a right and left side. Do i reverse the cutting side for the angles on the left corner?
Yes the cuts would be reversed for the other side.
i wish i can give this video more than 1 thump up
This guy is on a new level
What a sick video. I have this exact piece to make and will be following this video second by second as i go. Thanks man!
Great way to handle a tough spot Dan. Another way to skin that cat is to use a transition plenty block that each base elevation runs into. Thanks for your informative videos, keep them coming.
+Steve thanks. The block is a good way to deal with it too.
What a great and elegant method!
+Jim Dockrell thanks Jim
Dan, great details and articulation. Great video, thanks for posting!
+Christopher Harpster thanks!
This guy has a soothing voice.
This video is great. It really helps with baseboards. I have a question for you, I have a tile to wood floor transition, where the wood floor is 13/32" below the tile floor. What makes this transition difficult is that the transition is in a outer corner. The baseboard can level fine around the corner, but the 1/4" is what I am having trouble with. Any suggestions? I can email you a picture if it will help. Thanks!
I love it great work. I do this stuff for a living 2 so I get it. But it took me a min. So just a suggestion work on your explanation a bit. Describe why ur making each cut. The reason behind making it fit together a certain way. I mean I got it once u started peicing it together. But 2 the lame, the ones who are going to decide if ur channel lives or dies. U might wanna describe why ur doing what ur doing while ur doing it. But just a suggestion. And either way good work man. Looks awesome!! Great attention to detail. Cause I've seen some shabby stuff in similar situations. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Shaun. I see what you're saying, but at the same time there is always a balance between enough detail and making the video too long. When I make these videos, I constantly have to fight my natural tendency to go into great detail when explaining things. I try and hit a middle ground that will keep the video at a decent length while still providing enough detail to allow the majority of people to 'get it'. If a video is too long then most people won't bother to watch it in the first place. A video can always be watched multiple times to get everything or questions asked in the comments if needed.
One of the more common comments I get back from viewers is that they like that my videos move along and I don't ramble on about things for too long. I guess basically what it boils down to is that you can't make everyone happy so you just have to go with what the majority likes. Having said all of that, thanks for the feedback though, I appreciate it👍
This is an all around impressive video. Nice craftsmanship, shop, and video work, you even have a wireless remote for your vacuum system! Very nice!
Thank you!
Hi like your video very help full for me as I’m working as handyman, how fix show molding or quarter round on top same settings? It will be great help if you can share any idea
It would be similar running quarter round although most times if there is a transition strip in the flooring, the quarter round will stop at each side of it.
Great video. Top notch editing. Well done Dan.
+Royal Poison thanks! I started using Premiere Pro recently for my editing which I really like and gives me the flexibility and tools I need to put my videos together the way I want.
Awesome presentation. Thank you, Bill
+Bill Edis thanks Bill.
Thank you for sharing! This was perfect for my homeowner DIY project. Great video!
Absolutely beautiful job and brilliant idea, will be using this soon looks factory and clean keep up the good work!
I’ll get this once I watch it a few hundred more times
taking your advice but thankfully I dont have a corner to worry about. Thanks!!
Really clean solution, top notch. Small quibble, but wouldn't it be easier to do the stepping down on the other side of the corner, on the higher flooring? That would eliminate the need for piece E.
Thanks Keith. It all depends on where the transition in flooring height happens. I've had situations where I haven't needed piece E because the flooring changed in a different spot. I was trying to cover the worst case scenario in the video for a situation where you would need piece E.
@@DPShopTalk Makes sense! Thanks for the idea, imma totally use that.
Thanks, worked great!
Amazing piece of work!
+morganthaller1 thanks!
Wow, what else can I say! Really appreciate the video and your willingness to share.
Nicely done
This is great but very confusing for me as I have to make a lower flooring meet a corner where the angle turns to the left and steps up? Can you give me the pieces (1 through 5 angles going into the step up. Very confusing but looks nice.
Have you considered using CA glue? And for quicker adhesion, spraying the joint with accelerator.
Yes I have used CA glue and I do carry some with me but I've come to prefer the 10 min wood glue. I find its stronger and it's not smelly.
This helped! Much appreciated!
for Carl - another excellent demo!
I’m needing to trim out a wall which has drywall and a tiled wall. It’s only 3/8 “ difference in depth so I am stumped ow to make that transition because it is such. A small difference. What do I do to have a successful transition?
If its not a long run I would probably add a strip 3/8" thick to the baseboard to space it out on the drywall.
Wow!!!! I think that you're better than me and that's hard for me to say keep up the good work Dan I'm going to subscribe
Awesome craftsmanship. I'm inspired and have a solution. Mahalo
+Lawrence Kidder thanks, glad you found it helpful!
Hi Dan, great video. Not sure I like how the transition looks, I might have preferred to rip down or thicken up the board to give an even level all round (or hidden it somewhere). However, what's great is that you are a craftsman who takes the time and care to deliver a finished product that you are proud to show to a customer. Too many tradesmen would just bodge that corner and not bother to sand down and fill to finish the job. Keep up the great work.
+DesandSam thanks. Yeah not everyone likes the look of the step down but in the situation I used it in I think it was the best option.
I am working on customizing your plan for a 3-1/2” drop. Any advise would be welcomed.
It would be the same process just with different dimensions and the pieces would be bigger. Another option if the step down is that big is to just miter the baseboard and run it straight down the step down depending on how tall the baseboard is.
Is the a diagram of this type of cut. I can't find it on his website
4:45 I watched that 10 times and then got it, hearing things in North American takes me ages to convert to my brain. I've got it now! Cheers.
Lol yeah that's the critical part. I'm assuming that you're referring to using inches instead of metric. The funny thing is Canada is a metric country but for some reason just about everyone still builds in imperial. I do use metric more as time goes on but still mostly imperial so that I'm talking the same language as other trades on job sites.
@@DPShopTalk exactly. But also the way you describe the right angle tool edge etc.. doesnt matter as I got it. Got my project done over the weekend thanks to you so many thanks! :)
Hi Dan! Thanks for video. I have a bullnose/rounded corner. Do I cut the middle piece on corner and that would be included as part of ur “A” piece in diagram then continue on? Thanks
Yes if you have a rounded corner you can add an extra piece at the corner with two 45 deg angles rather than a sharp 90.
This is wood alchemy ur a wizard 😜
Imagine two rooms meeting and the wall between removed. Now try running baseboards only on one side not only is the floor not level but the wall angles back about 22 degrees how do I make These two runs connect? Just like your example, only the floor is out of level as well. Dan can you please help? Thanks
If I'm understanding you right, it sounds like you would need to do the step down detail but instead of cutting a corner joint like I did you would need to make some 11 degree cuts to work with where the wall angles back at 22 degrees. It should be the same concept as what I did but with different angles and possibly some different filler pieces at the bottom depending on where the floor drop happens in relation to where the wall angles back at 22 degrees. Hopefully that helps.
That looks really good. Haha idk if I'm up for that
Great detail. I was intrigued just as much by the 10 minute wood glue which I have not seen here in the states. Does anyone know a source for it state side or mail order? Thanks.
Looks awesome, it was very helpful, and look forward to seeing more great ideas. Thanks
+Andrew W thanks, glad to hear you found it helpful
Hi Dan. Awesome video. Will this work with a 1/4" step down as well? Or would the angles(i.e. 15 degrees) have to change?
Thanks. Yes it would work with a 1/4" step down. It would just make for a smaller piece.
you sure know your craft! We are installing molding on top of the baseboard coming down the stairs along the wall. Having a difficult time trying to figure out how to cut the angle where it transitions from sloping down the stairs at the bottom and then goes horizontal where the stairs end. Do you have a video for that? thanks, Joan
Unfortunately I don't have a video on that scenario. The angle finder that I used in this video makes figuring out angles much easier though.
Very inovative and informative.
Nice work Dan
+George Heath thanks George.
Great video and very useful to see this "How To". I might have missed it in a previous video, but can you give some details on the remote switch for the shop vac..? I've been looking for something similar and am torn between the various options available.
+Simon Coupland thanks. I've been meaning to make a video about the iVac switch and how I use it but haven't gotten to it yet. I use the iVac switch both on site and in the shop to control my dust extractor. I find that it's very convenient to have the remote clipped onto my pants so that I can start or stop the vac whenever I want and where ever I am in the room. I find that I use this much more than the auto on feature that the Bosch vac has since I have complete control over it. Sometimes I want to leave the vac running longer after making a cut or keep it running if I know I'm going to be making another cut soon after. The iVac switch has worked very well for me and I would definitely recommend it. I'll put the link for it below.
amzn.to/2qmVT2x
I am incredibly happy I found this, I have a 1" difference in my dining room floor into my living area. So to Confirm I would need to make piece "C" 1" versus the 1/2". Am I following correctly?
Yes if you have a 1" floor difference then you would need to use that measurement rather than the 1/2" that I used for piece C. Just remember that it won't mean that piece C is 1" wide. You'll need to measure a 1" downward projection like I did with the small graduated square to determine the actual cut mark.
@@DPShopTalk Thanks It worked great, I had to be extra careful as I am staining oak base. Thanks again!!
Love the trim step down video. Curious if 15 degrees would be standard for something like this, or how to figure the correct angle. Thank you.
Theres not really a standard angle for this but I've found that 15 degrees works well plus most miter saws have a detent at 15 degrees so it quick and easy to set the saw.
Dan Pattison thak you. I have a project that is this exact problem. I appreciate it.
G'day Dan, you always have such great & informative videos & im really glad that I discovered your channel, keep up the good work mate, Sumo from Sumo's Projects 👍👍👍
+Sumo's Projects thanks!
Thank you that was terrific.
How do you get to a 90 degree step up using 15 degrees for only 4 cuts, seems like just a 60 degree which would not get you back to level with the step up? I feel like i am amissing something. The other videos about this use 22.5 degrees for the cuts. It's making me feel crazy. ha
So my question is how did u decide on the 15° angle for the step down? Is it an arbitrary angle, or determined by the difference between the two floors?
The 15 degrees is somewhat arbitrary. I chose it for 2 reasons. One, it is a standard detent on most miter saws, and two it looks good and works well for most flooring height differences.
I have a similar situation. However, it deals with a step up from a regular cabinet to the refrigerator cabinet. It's 2" higher. I'm an Electronics Technician, retired. Installed LED lights above, under and in all of the cabinets. To accommodate the Wife's bigger fridge, we had to raise the cabinet. It's a straight virtical change. Any suggestions for my Crown molding.
How big is the crown? Ideally the crown on the lower cabinets would stop at the taller cabinet and then have a different run of crown on the taller cabinet.
Thanks! Hope I can figure this out
Wow is right, very professional.
Nice video. Very well done from one carpenter to the next. This is pretty technical for a homeowner or DIY especially without a proper sliding miter saw so best to leave it to the pros 😉
lol, cutting a couple of angles on a miter saw is not technical.
No wait, I did it and it’s awesome!!! Great vid, thanks!!!!!!
Fantastic!..Thank you so much for making this video.
I don't have the fancy stuff to cut wood is it possible to do it with a hand saw?
You could definitely make the cuts with a hand saw as long as you have a good quality saw and are skilled at using it.
What's the rationale for 15 degrees, as opposed to 22.5 or 45? Now do the same with out of square and out of plumb walls!
15 degrees is just an angle that I found works well. More of an angle will make the step down too steep. Walls are always out of square and plumb, I always measure the angle of all outside corners and pre-assemble joints to compensate for out of true conditions.
Howdy Dan, nice finish but can I ask - where does the 15 deg come from? When I do these I just Mitre 45 down to vertical then Mitre back to horizontal. My method creates a STEP down yours is more of a slope which I think looks nicer. My method also causes me issues because (using your scenario) the Mitre cut isn't contained within the baseboard, so I would have to position my mitre cut further away from the corner meaning the filler piece E is 4 inches or more and has to be cut on the table saw... More work for no extra benefit.
+Mike Stephens the 15 degrees just seemed like a good angle to go with and has worked well for me. It's also a standard detent angle on most miter saws so it's quickly repeatable.
How do you add quarter round with the same step down?
You could just cut the same 15 deg angles on the quarter round to make it work the same way. If there happens to be a flooring transition strip that butts into the step-down then I usually just stop the quarter round at each side of it.
Are you using short point and long point backwards? I rewatched a few times, I thought the long point is the acute angle and the short is the obtuse. So the long point is the pointy end and the short point is the end thats impossible to get a tape measure to grab.
I don't think I'm using it backwards. The way that you described long and short point are the same way I define them too so I think we're on the same page🤔
How would I compensate for a 1in step up? Would piece C instead be 1in?
Yeah, where I used the 1/2" measurement to measure down with the little square you would use 1".
@@DPShopTalk thank you, it would probably be great content if you revisited this technique for a straight run you are the only person that I found that has any video like this. Greatly appreciated
looks so good thank you
Well done my friend thanks a lot !!
is the same process for oposite side corner?
Yes it is.