I'm really thankful for this video, how's the evaporator humidity is going on? did it start dropping or go bad in any way or it's still the same and in good condition? and if you have any updates on this matter please share it with me. thank you.
Just saw your vids on this...I have the same problem on my 2003 Envoy and I'm considering this hack rather than spending $1200! You're SUPER entertaining as well...thanks for the videos!
HVAC foam tape insulates. It should be available from any HVAC supply. Used on walk-in coolers, etc. Thanks for the update. Wish more folks would do the same. 👍😎👌
@@ministerfrank4Christ Your question makes me think that you don't understand the plastic welding methods. I suggest you check out a couple of videos. I'm going to use this project as an excuse to see if Harbor Freight still sells the plastic welding kit. Between that and Flex Tape, I think I can do this "hack" on my 03 Trailblazer!
Came here because I'm in the same boat. $2500 truck, not givin the money grubbers / mechanics who've robbed me of $1000 already trying to fix my AC another $1500 to replace this thing. I now believe I need to invest in some flex tape and silicone.
Hello- Instead of taping the panel back on, or using epoxy etc. The best thing you can do is plastic weld the panel back on. Plastic welding is easy and has a neat look. Thank you for your videos.
Earlier this year I took my whole dash off to replace the harness to switch from manual to automatic windows. Although it wasn't all that difficulty, it was definitely time consuming. A couple of months later and I was about to remove the whole dash again to replace my evaporator, that was until I saw your awesome hack. I will be trying it next week. A HUGE thank you in advance. #Bowtie
Hey so I have a 07 1500 classic that has manuals window I got the factory window window switches and window regulators whst do I need to do to get them to work
I no shit 2 days ago on my 97 GMC 1500 was told I may have to spend 1500 on replacing mine I laughed loudly in the guy's face but I knew there were other ways and looky looky..... thank u!!!!!
I wonder if you could just use a pop rivet gun to fix the support bracket. You could just get a 5-6 inch section of sheet metal and pop rivet it to each side. Pop rivets are really easy and make nice movement free connections as long as you drill the correct diameter hole for the rivet size you are using. It would probably be equally as good as the non-cut version. It may be harder to fix a second time or re tape, but at the same time you may be able to just use tin snips to cut the sheet metal in the future. But I can definitely see the merit in the shortcut repair in the first place. It's one of the longer repairs especially on that vehicle.
Yes you probably could, but in all reality, once I quieted down the squeak with the flex tape, the need for the bracket doesn't really seem too important.
Thanks for posting these videos, I'm preparing to use your method. My '02 Sub developed some trouble, one of the main hoses showed a dye leak, and doesn't seem to hold system pressure after replacing. Before I vacuum out everything I'm pulling my cabin air filter and getting a UV light up in there next to the evaporator. I expect to find dye in there too. So went looking for how-to stuff on the evap and found your work. Totally agree about value vs cost. 18yr-old vehicle, I'm not spending $1600++ for my local A/C guys to pull apart the dash. And seconding your remarks about squeaks. Thanks again and keep up the good work.
forgot to add, planning to use 100% silicone / rtv as a gap sealer for the access cuts and top that with adhesive metal HVAC tape. Should last the rest of the life of the vehicle. And putting some strips of closed-cell foam insulation tape around the edges of the evap for cushioning / positioning, after cutting that internal plastic bracket
What was the number of the replacement evaporator? Before I started cutting I held the evaporator up to where I should cut but my replacement seems to large. Any thoughts?
the bracket would not let the evaporator touch the sides of the outside case it worked as an insulator that is why on long trips it drips inside the cab. great videos yall
Great fix and job detailing. I was thinking shoot tube of clear adhesive caulking between pieces to hold and pad. Your tape seems to work well and didn't need to call a roofer :). On original sealing of casing I was thinking good quality HVAC metal tape from big box store (not little $ store). For added grins, spray foam or wx strip tape around box. Now for the carpet..wonder if the saw can cut a rug ? Will watch for any future part 3. Nice job and really enjoyed your ingenuity. Great camera man work also !
Use a couple of layers of a/c insulation tape. The silver kind with the 1/8" to 1/4" sticky sealant on the backside. Moisture, heat nothing will ruin that stuff..
Some closed cell foam around the outside can help seal and force air through the evaporator and help hold it in place. Its plenty waterproof and should last quite a few years without degrading.
@@ministerfrank4Christ just on the back of the plastic chunk you removed. It will help prevent the air from going around the evaporator. Closed cell (not open cell it will mold) can just give a gasket effect.
My 2003 Suburban has an issue in this area too. When the AC is set at 2 or higher that whole area under glovebox shakes like crazy and smells like skunk.
I remember watching a guy fix a bumper on a car, which was made of plastic. He had a tool that would melt plastic like a solder gun and he melted the plastic together at the break in the bumper, and he filled it in with more plastic as he melted it, Do you think that might help with any leaking?
Yes, that's an idea. I recently bought a plastic welding kit. However, I don't think it's necessary. Cleaner cuts and flextape would have been just fine. Actually we are approaching the 3rd summer and I only had a small drip that one time.
Ya I think I may have to do this to mine I'll make sure I cut enough the first time so it's just like 2 pieces and do some plastic welding to get it back together structurally at least and go back with some epoxy or something maybe some.flex tap to seal it all up
I would suggest to anyone trying this to use 3M Air and Vapour barrier over other tapes. It's designed for window/door applications and won't leak or dry out on you :)
Could my problem be caused by a bad evaporator? I have freon blowing back around the lines that go through the firewall to evaporator when trying to recharge my suburban.
Dude.....This is a GREAT fix. Thanks for making the video. I have a truck in this year range and body style...but I also have a 2015 Sierra that I'm afraid has an evap leak. Do you know if this fix will work on a 2015 body style?
Alex just a follow up on your first video, i did the same thing and i have a 2009 Caddy Hy-Brid and let me tell you there is more shit in the way because of the hy-brid battery cables go down right where the evaporator lines go into the dash and into the two line of a/c. Did you put new ( O ) rings on the lines before you connected the 13MM nuts and charged up the system. Bought a complete set ('Rielly's ) 10 bucks just to play it safe. Thanks again pal you saved a lot of people money. Tom of Cape Coral Fl...
My local mechanic made the permanent connection with new o-ring when he evacuated and charged the system. I'm sure the hybrids are a mess with all that extra stuff crammed in there. Thanks for Watching.
@@AxlesGarage Same here Axel had my A/C guy disconnect the 2 13MM nuts that hold the evaporator on the firewall. Then after i installed unit and took it back to him where he installed new o rings, and recharged the system. All for a heaping $89.95 including the labor and recharging. Caddy down here wanted $1,800.00 just in labor O M G ...Thanks again you were a life saver...
My a/c hose broke off on the stud and I've tried everything to get the end of it off the stud and it just won't come off. I have to replace the whole Evaporator just to get a new hose connected
The one linked seems to come with studs for some and without for some, must be a multi-manufacturer part. You should be able to find studs that work at a hardware store.
Has anyone done this on a 1995 Silverado? Evaluating the job note that the AC lines to the evaporator are top & bottom vs side to side and there's no mounting bolts. Would appreciate any feedback. Thanks.
Great video and hack. I ordered the evaporator from the link you provided and it does not come with studs. Where can I get the studs for this unit? I can not find them anywhere.
I am in the middle of removing my 2005 chevy 2500 hd duramax evaporator core.I have access and the evaporator comes out about 2-3 inches out of hvac box or plenum but gets hung up and will not come out any further.Worked on it like this for two hours and will continue tomorrow morning. Any suggestions on how the core should come out.I cant see what it is getting hung on.I did not make relief cuts on bottom of box like you did to bend it down.Is that necessary to get core out? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I needed the relief cuts to get it out, as the bottom of the evap was getting hung up on the plastic. Also, there is a metal strap like bracket holding the evap, you need to pull it out hard enough to overcome the bracket and yank it all out. you wont be using the bracket with the new one.
Why not just dismantle the dash and do the job right the first time and you won't have to go over and do it again? If don't have time to do it right the first time you'll never have time to go back and do it again... Just my thought
Idk why anyone would do this hack I can take the heater core out in about 30-45 min tops. Don't cut your vehicle up. It's truly more work in the end its only 7 15mm bikts 6 stearing colum bolts & 5 plugs then avout 14 total screws. You don't even have to remove anything out of your dash. It's simple
****The glove compartment Flex-Tape Rattle fix shown in this video WORKED!!! Rattle-Free for over 1k miles so far this past week.*****
Great! I'm going to look for a leak in the morning and I believe its the evaporator
I'm really thankful for this video, how's the evaporator humidity is going on? did it start dropping or go bad in any way or it's still the same and in good condition? and if you have any updates on this matter please share it with me. thank you.
Thank You so much Ron. I just cut my evaporator out using a 3 1/2 INCH grinder with a metal blade and also a hacksaw blade. It came out easy
Glad we could help
Just saw your vids on this...I have the same problem on my 2003 Envoy and I'm considering this hack rather than spending $1200! You're SUPER entertaining as well...thanks for the videos!
Glad I could help
I am still in awe of this hack!
Thanks Bill, ****The glove compartment Flex-Tape Rattle fix shown in this video WORKED!!! Rattle-Free for over 1k miles so far this past week.*****
your a pretty smart man if society fell apart you will defintely be one of the ones too rebuild it
Thanks for the kind words
HVAC foam tape insulates. It should be available from any HVAC supply. Used on walk-in coolers, etc. Thanks for the update. Wish more folks would do the same. 👍😎👌
Thats a great idea, Thanks
Video was a big help. The only thing I did different was used a plastic weld kit to put box back together. Thanks
Yeah, thats a great idea. How did it come out?
How did that work out for you?
Yes! Please reply!
How did you weld it? Since you have to have the pieces horizontal and not laying flat.
@@ministerfrank4Christ Your question makes me think that you don't understand the plastic welding methods. I suggest you check out a couple of videos. I'm going to use this project as an excuse to see if Harbor Freight still sells the plastic welding kit. Between that and Flex Tape, I think I can do this "hack" on my 03 Trailblazer!
Came here because I'm in the same boat. $2500 truck, not givin the money grubbers / mechanics who've robbed me of $1000 already trying to fix my AC another $1500 to replace this thing. I now believe I need to invest in some flex tape and silicone.
3 years and still working great.
Hello- Instead of taping the panel back on, or using epoxy etc. The best thing you can do is plastic weld the panel back on. Plastic welding is easy and has a neat look. Thank you for your videos.
Thanks for the tips! Recently bought a plastic welding kit as well.
Aluminum duct tape is just fine
Nothing but issues, mostly electric, when you uninstall and reinstall a 20 year old dashboard, great hack!
Finally, someone who gets my point. Thanks for watching
Earlier this year I took my whole dash off to replace the harness to switch from manual to automatic windows. Although it wasn't all that difficulty, it was definitely time consuming. A couple of months later and I was about to remove the whole dash again to replace my evaporator, that was until I saw your awesome hack. I will be trying it next week. A HUGE thank you in advance.
#Bowtie
Thats great, best of luck on your evap job.
Hey so I have a 07 1500 classic that has manuals window I got the factory window window switches and window regulators whst do I need to do to get them to work
Noticed in the previous video that while evap is pulled the box could be modified to accept a in-cabin air filter.
I no shit 2 days ago on my 97 GMC 1500 was told I may have to spend 1500 on replacing mine I laughed loudly in the guy's face but I knew there were other ways and looky looky..... thank u!!!!!
Glad we could help
I used the "All weather" Gorilla tape it's kinda like flextape/duct tape... it's better than original gorilla tape and maybe as good as flex tape 🙏
I wonder if you could just use a pop rivet gun to fix the support bracket. You could just get a 5-6 inch section of sheet metal and pop rivet it to each side. Pop rivets are really easy and make nice movement free connections as long as you drill the correct diameter hole for the rivet size you are using. It would probably be equally as good as the non-cut version. It may be harder to fix a second time or re tape, but at the same time you may be able to just use tin snips to cut the sheet metal in the future. But I can definitely see the merit in the shortcut repair in the first place. It's one of the longer repairs especially on that vehicle.
Yes you probably could, but in all reality, once I quieted down the squeak with the flex tape, the need for the bracket doesn't really seem too important.
I'm going to attempt it. Will try to record process. Thanks
Good luck, it worked out well for me.
Very good job don't wory about the negative comments . Thanks
Thank you.
In the HVAC industry we use cork tape. Its sticky and has insulating value. Comes in a roll like duct tape.
Sounds perfect for this
Thanks for posting these videos, I'm preparing to use your method. My '02 Sub developed some trouble, one of the main hoses showed a dye leak, and doesn't seem to hold system pressure after replacing. Before I vacuum out everything I'm pulling my cabin air filter and getting a UV light up in there next to the evaporator. I expect to find dye in there too. So went looking for how-to stuff on the evap and found your work. Totally agree about value vs cost. 18yr-old vehicle, I'm not spending $1600++ for my local A/C guys to pull apart the dash. And seconding your remarks about squeaks.
Thanks again and keep up the good work.
forgot to add, planning to use 100% silicone / rtv as a gap sealer for the access cuts and top that with adhesive metal HVAC tape. Should last the rest of the life of the vehicle. And putting some strips of closed-cell foam insulation tape around the edges of the evap for cushioning / positioning, after cutting that internal plastic bracket
Good ideas, Thanks for watching!
What was the number of the replacement evaporator? Before I started cutting I held the evaporator up to where I should cut but my replacement seems to large. Any thoughts?
good job brother i have the same problem , and i will be doing the same . i will be documenting it and i will send you the video : )
Thanks for watching.
Thanks for your time..... my 93 needs a replacement and this will save me about 1,300 bucks...plus!
Glad to help
if you used foam tape woulda been great insulator we use it in hvac its 2 " wide and sticks great
the bracket would not let the evaporator touch the sides of the outside case it worked as an insulator that is why on long trips it drips inside the cab. great videos yall
Thanks for the kind words
Thanks bro good info I changed mine using your video thanks!
Glad it helped
Great fix and job detailing. I was thinking shoot tube of clear adhesive caulking between pieces to hold and pad. Your tape seems to work well and didn't need to call a roofer :). On original sealing of casing I was thinking good quality HVAC metal tape from big box store (not little $ store). For added grins, spray foam or wx strip tape around box. Now for the carpet..wonder if the saw can cut a rug ? Will watch for any future part 3. Nice job and really enjoyed your ingenuity. Great camera man work also !
Thank you so much.
Use a couple of layers of a/c insulation tape. The silver kind with the 1/8" to 1/4" sticky sealant on the backside.
Moisture, heat nothing will ruin that stuff..
Great tip
This is dope! I have a feeling I’m gonna need to do this soon to my 02 trail blazer
Glad you enjoyed it
Gorilla glue is super sticky, it expands to fill voids, then hardens. I use it all the time for all types of projects. Takes out two hours to cure.
That's not a bad idea
I like this video. I started a new game, every time he says the word stud, we take a drink of beer.
Stud
Awesome job I'm about to replace mine Monday but I'm going to do it by taking the dash out
Good Luck. Please time it so we can compare the time it takes both ways.
@@AxlesGarage i will
Thank you
I have the HVAC box out on my 2004 Silverado and cannot for the life of me figure out how to open the box. Help!
Try 3M 5200 marine adhesive next time. When it cures, it will be as strong as the box you are sealing.
Thanks for the tip
In general very good job don't wory about negative comments . Thanks
Negative comments mean you reaching more people. Thanks for watching.
Some closed cell foam around the outside can help seal and force air through the evaporator and help hold it in place. Its plenty waterproof and should last quite a few years without degrading.
Great Idea, thanks for the input
How would you wrap it around the outside?
@@ministerfrank4Christ just on the back of the plastic chunk you removed. It will help prevent the air from going around the evaporator. Closed cell (not open cell it will mold) can just give a gasket effect.
@@jonathanaugle ok so would you glue it to the back of the plastic?
@@ministerfrank4Christ yep or get some with adhesive already on.
My 2003 Suburban has an issue in this area too. When the AC is set at 2 or higher that whole area under glovebox shakes like crazy and smells like skunk.
I remember watching a guy fix a bumper on a car, which was made of plastic. He had a tool that would melt plastic like a solder gun and he melted the plastic together at the break in the bumper, and he filled it in with more plastic as he melted it, Do you think that might help with any leaking?
Yes, that's an idea. I recently bought a plastic welding kit. However, I don't think it's necessary. Cleaner cuts and flextape would have been just fine. Actually we are approaching the 3rd summer and I only had a small drip that one time.
Ya I think I may have to do this to mine I'll make sure I cut enough the first time so it's just like 2 pieces and do some plastic welding to get it back together structurally at least and go back with some epoxy or something maybe some.flex tap to seal it all up
I really think that flextape will do the job and be easy.
I hope this works on my 97 GMC Yukon.this is an awesome video
It should be very similar, Let us know how you make out.
I would suggest to anyone trying this to use 3M Air and Vapour barrier over other tapes. It's designed for window/door applications and won't leak or dry out on you :)
Great Idea, but I still thing Flex Tape is OK
AC removes heat from the air condensate is the molecules from the thermal exchange. lol smart ass comment thankyou very much
Thanks for watching.
Great job in saving time and money! 👍
Thanks for the kind words
Could my problem be caused by a bad evaporator? I have freon blowing back around the lines that go through the firewall to evaporator when trying to recharge my suburban.
Yes o believe so. My mechanic thought it was the seals there. But it was the evaporator.
Could also be the connection to the evap.
the orings at the evap hoses
another great video! thanks man, i just subscribed, keep it up!
Thank you for the kind words
Thanks, I'm going to try it.
Works great!!!
Good job Alpachino
Thank you for the comment.
Do a small lift on the k5
Yeah, maybe next summer.
Dude.....This is a GREAT fix. Thanks for making the video. I have a truck in this year range and body style...but I also have a 2015 Sierra that I'm afraid has an evap leak. Do you know if this fix will work on a 2015 body style?
You'll have to find a diagram of the HVAC box to determine where the evap is and if its accessible.
Alex just a follow up on your first video, i did the same thing and i have a 2009 Caddy Hy-Brid and let me tell you there is more shit in the way because of the hy-brid battery cables go down right where the evaporator lines go into the dash and into the two line of a/c. Did you put new ( O ) rings on the lines before you connected the 13MM nuts and charged up the system. Bought a complete set ('Rielly's ) 10 bucks just to play it safe. Thanks again pal you saved a lot of people money. Tom of Cape Coral Fl...
My local mechanic made the permanent connection with new o-ring when he evacuated and charged the system. I'm sure the hybrids are a mess with all that extra stuff crammed in there. Thanks for Watching.
@@AxlesGarage Same here Axel had my A/C guy disconnect the 2 13MM nuts that hold the evaporator on the firewall. Then after i installed unit and took it back to him where he installed new o rings, and recharged the system. All for a heaping $89.95 including the labor and recharging. Caddy down here wanted $1,800.00 just in labor O M G ...Thanks again you were a life saver...
Thanks ! does it work on a Pontiac Aztec 2005?
It might, but you'll need a schematic to locate the EVAP in the box, then need to determine if is accessible like this one was.
why didn't you change out the heater core @ the same time?
To be honest, didn't even think of it.
Is there a hack for the heater core?
This answer is no from most videos I've seen.
How do you stop your floor from getting wet because I had this done on my truck an the AC works great but its leaking water on my carpet.
Seal up the box good. I used gorilla tape with no condensate drips inside vehicle. If I were to do it again, I would use flextape
i wish the heater core could be done this way
Yep
How's the banjo playing coming along?
Very slow, was doing about 45 minutes a day, then life just got in the way.
Hi great videos I am on the edge of attempting this quick question what's the amount of time needed for this job?
I would say 2 hours tops
My a/c hose broke off on the stud and I've tried everything to get the end of it off the stud and it just won't come off. I have to replace the whole Evaporator just to get a new hose connected
Wow, that stinks. Best of luck.
Do you think that one could just spray foam the end after installing then trim it flat and tape it up?
Probably be an unnecessary mess. Next time flex tape for sure.
I bought the one you said to and it didn't come with studs..
The one linked seems to come with studs for some and without for some, must be a multi-manufacturer part. You should be able to find studs that work at a hardware store.
Has anyone done this on a 1995 Silverado? Evaluating the job note that the AC lines to the evaporator are top & bottom vs side to side and there's no mounting bolts. Would appreciate any feedback. Thanks.
I personally have not.
Where can u get the studs mine didn’t come with studs
It seems as some have studs and some don't. You could try a hardware store.
You should have just taped or glued the piece that you cut off back on to it or used a universal bracket.
Thanks for the tips
awsm vid Ron.
Thanks Larry
Great video and hack. I ordered the evaporator from the link you provided and it does not come with studs. Where can I get the studs for this unit? I can not find them anywhere.
At the time I ordered it, the unit came with studs. You should be able to get them at a good hardware store
Personally, i think that normal duct tape (the silver stuff) would have been better to use..
)
Yeah, you might be right. However, I think Flex Tape would be the best in this situation.
Have u done this job on a f150?
I have not, you would have to get the schematics of the under dash box to see where the evaporator is located.
I am in the middle of removing my 2005 chevy 2500 hd duramax evaporator core.I have access and the evaporator comes out about 2-3 inches out of hvac box or plenum but gets hung up and will not come out any further.Worked on it like this for two hours and will continue tomorrow morning. Any suggestions on how the core should come out.I cant see what it is getting hung on.I did not make relief cuts on bottom of box like you did to bend it down.Is that necessary to get core out? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I needed the relief cuts to get it out, as the bottom of the evap was getting hung up on the plastic. Also, there is a metal strap like bracket holding the evap, you need to pull it out hard enough to overcome the bracket and yank it all out. you wont be using the bracket with the new one.
The evaporator didn't come with studs 😶
It seems like some do and some don't. You can remove from the old one, or hit up a hardware store
@@AxlesGarage yeah it's also really big this thing fits in that box? Holy crap lol
Why not just dismantle the dash and do the job right the first time and you won't have to go over and do it again? If don't have time to do it right the first time you'll never have time to go back and do it again... Just my thought
Just didn't want to put that kind of time in an old rusty truck, 3-summers later, still working fine.
Idk why anyone would do this hack I can take the heater core out in about 30-45 min tops. Don't cut your vehicle up. It's truly more work in the end its only 7 15mm bikts 6 stearing colum bolts & 5 plugs then avout 14 total screws. You don't even have to remove anything out of your dash. It's simple
Thanks for watching
Anyone who needed an explanation on what studs are should not even consider doing anything like this much less drive
Yes you are correct.
It does not matter how old the car is you put the stuff back together without cutting it. OMG
Thanks for watching.
if you dont know what a stud is. close your fucking hood and take it to a real mechanic bc you have no business working on anything at all. geez ppl
OK Teriffic