Great video. Just saved me a fortune. GM should have an access door for these repairs. My wife will have AC again which means I'm out of the dog house. Thanks You.
I did this on my 01 gmc Sierra, I used my grinder with a thin blade,had it cut in seconds, when I put it back together I used epoxy to tack it in place and used a high quality silicone to seal, three months later and zero problems, can still access cabin air filters easily. Blowing cold air and I'm happy and saved a lot of heartache.
@@AxlesGarage I CUT STUFF ALL THE TIME ..AND ORDER LT WEIGHT SHEET METAL...AND PRECUT BARS...AND FIX THINGS JUST LIKE THAT...FOR EXACTLY THE SAME REASON..YOU PAY $2700 HUNDRED FOR A 05 CHEVY ...YOUR NOT GOING TO PAY $1800 TO GET IT FIX..NOT GOING TO HAPPEN...AT SOME POINT YOU BECOME A DIY...GUY"...LOVE IT..**ONE#1**
Just got mine out last night in my Suburban. The multitool is awesome. $18 at Harbor Freight with one blade. I did have to make 2 additional cuts on the right because I didn't wanna go too far if I didn't have to. I suppose the best advice is to cut just to the left of that screw that holds the top and bottom of the housing together on the right side. But even still it sure was a booger to get out, and I didn't wanna break the bottom so I didn't cut too much which I think would have helped. It was that plastic mountain bracket that kept it stuck in there pretty good. So after a lot of prying with a screwdriver and a claw hammer I finally got it out. Maybe about an hour an a half total last night. Gonna order a new one today. Thanks for the vid!
@@AxlesGarage I saved the $15 and used flashing tape because I had some already. Works good but still has a glue smell. I do have a soaking wet passenger floor now and the evaporator appears to be draining properly but I can't find where it's coming from. Once the weather cools off I'll look into it more. I'd rather have a wet floor than no ac.
God bless you brother. This is getting done out of the box. However I think if ever and may have to, I'll go with longer install. Looks great though good on you. This is the American spirit that makes us great. Hope it all continues. God bless
Omg fantastic I just did this to my 99 Silverado has the cabin filters in there took me 45 min to do whole job thank you so much they should make the dam thing able to open up anyway
i just did the "Hack" and it went pretty well. After making the relief cuts in the plastic it was quite an effort to get the old evap out, but I did it. The old evap flange (at the firewall) kept getting caught on the the screw "nubs" that are on the inside (top) of the case. I found it helped to put a large screwdriver through the firewall and push down on the flange to get it by those pesky "nubs". I purchased the new evap from your link and it did NOT come with studs. I bought some at my local Hardware.Store.. no big deal. I brought the truck to my local AC shop to place new O-rings, tighten the nuts down, and charge the system. They just reported to me that the evap flange did not match together "perfectly" at the firewall (one pipe would not seat). They are going to try to make it work with double washers on that pipe. If you read through the AMAZON comments on this particular evap you will see that others have had the same problem. I suggest buying a different brand for a few more $$$. I will report back to let you know if the double washer plan works.. I really don't feel like taking it out and returning it... so my fingers are crossed! Thanks for the video!! I am optimistic it 's going to work! Flex Tape is the way to go.
Great video. Thank you. I only cut 1 side from the metal bar and bend it . I put duck tape to hold together the metal and plastic bar of the glove compartment after I finish.
Great Video! Saved me a bunch of time and money on my '03 Tahoe. Hardest part of the job is getting old evaporator out. Take your time I jerked mine out and broke part of the airbox which took extra time to repair. Put a flat bar under the evaporator so the fins don't catch on the box when removing and installing. I used adhesive silicone to make an air tight patch when putting the airbox back together.
Axle you are the man, fellow New Yorker down here in Cape Coral Fl. Well my 2009 Escalade does not have a cabin fileter and am tired of hearing the wife saying i can smell all the fumes from out side. So decided to put a $60.00 holy shit cabin filter in with bracket supplied. Tried cutting with knife, too hard. So got a jig saw and yes that's right pooked a hole in the Evaporator. Just watched you video and thank you, you saved me a lot of money. Keep up the Vid's and really enjoy ( What accent lol ) Tom Rizzo of Cape Coral or as we call if from New York ( Cape C O M A lol) Ciao my man.
Took me 12hrs, but I was chasing a leaking heater core. I replaced the evap and blend door actuators while I was there and yes it was a "nightmare" job.
Good job I don't consider it a hack job and I'm a guy that's pretty picky about things being done right but I look at all you did was making access door which GM should have done and you saved a lot of money so I give you a thumbs up in all truth nobody'll know no difference hope you're enjoying your cold air thanks for the video
Hell, I just found my next teacher... These cars are ours set it up how you want since we're the ones who has to work on them..... I'm your next subscriber
really liked your video, i am replacing just about every component to my 2006 Escalade ESV. I didn't think I would need to replace the evaporator, but then thought if I do the compressor, accumulator, condenser, etc, and then the evap needs replacing, I'm screwed. So I'm going to try your short cut. I was impressed with the video, will help me a lot.
These trucks are so easy to work on with the exception of a few things. One is the evap core. Another is the damn heater core. Hack or not you did a kick ass job. My 23 year old truck finally lost the air conditioning. But it lasted 23 years which is not bad when you think about how they build shit now.
Nice job! i watched until end but i was eagerly awaiting the final result after charging A/C system. Im sure all was good. Thanks for the video, it is truly informative.
I got a 1997 Chevy ck 3500 my air conditioner is not blowing good and got a leak I can't see been trying to figure out how to get evaporator core out thanks this looks much easier than removing dash already got the right saw.
I know this video has been "up" awhile, but I wanted to say "thank you" for posting it. "Old" cars develop AC problems ... just comes with age/use of such systems in cars, and it takes guys with just the right combination of stubbornness, stinginess, and well, yeah ... a little bit of stupid ... to come up with creative ways to tackle them, and keep their older cars working longer. I got a dozen belly laughs out of this "hillbilly hack," as you called it, and your video did a great job documenting how you went about doing it. Very clever! This is one of those nagging, common problems with no easy fix. In my limited experience (and after watching quite a few videos on dash removal for this and other, similar cars), it's gotta be pretty much the same (or even worse) with all cars because the evaporator/heater cores are always buried somewhere deep under/behind the dash, in a ventilation housing pressed up against the firewall, covered by a zillion other controls, accessories, parts, etc. After watching the original video and later "update," I SERIOUSLY considered giving it a try to replace the original evaporator in my 2001 Suburban 1500, but in the end, I'm a stickler about using OEM equipment/repair approaches; I've tried to do that on all the DIY repairs I've done to keep this car in great shape, and concluded that the "cons" of making those kinds of brute "alterations" to the OE ventilation system outweigh the "pros," at least for me and this particular car. For example, IF I decide to pay a mechanic, or attempt this massive job myself, to GET AT and replace the OE evaporator (which I'm sure is at least a ghastly mess, if not leaking as well), I'm going to want to replace the OE heater core too, and that means, i.e., doing whatever's necessary to remove the dash, properly remove/open up the ventilation housing, and doing the whole job "according to Hoyle." For other cars/owners who are not as concerned about such minutiae, this looks to me like a great compromise on the big issues of, e.g., utility, effectiveness and relative cost. Again, thanks for creating and posting the video.
5 лет назад
Well done Mr. Driveway Mechanic. Now we all know how to install the missing access door. I may need this for a good friend's truck, thank you ahead of time! edit: Going to grab that HF tool & hit the Chinese buffet next door.
Dude! You're the shit! I have the AllData for my 2004 Burban and the labor is about 6 hrs. At $90/hr. That's $540! You just potentially saved me a bunch of money. I'm gonna try this DIY repair and I'll let you know how it goes, you big dummy!
Just cut out the old evaporator. Had some issues with the new evaporator, didn't come with studs. Trying to get replacement studs now. I'll let you know how it goes....
😂 Love the hack! Only thing I found to seal it all back up... Quick set gorilla crazy glue the gel type works better then the tape. Besides that what a wonderful way to save money and do it your self project. I give this video Ten Thumbs Up 😎 👍.
Great video i just got that problem they trying to charge me 1300 to get done but i think i will do your way also there i a way to replace the actuator the one that changes the air flow directions to wind shield and vents? And does the acc is working fine with no leaks With no leaks on your duct tape hack? Thank you very much
Nicely done and that oscillating cutter will be a real favorite tool for so many jobs you won't know how you lived without it. Awesome for drywall cut outs and carpentry in general too. I grew up in Westchester so I understood every word LOL👍😎👌
Holy smoke this video was great. Been with no ac on my 2001 silverado for 2 years cause I didn't want to spend time and money to pull dash. Gonna get right on this one. Thank you. Oh and I liked the nickname Big Dummy lol!!!
Great video! Got quoted a bundle to replace the evaporator core in my 2006 Yukon Xl Denali with 300K miles. I'm following your lead on this. Hope it goes as well for me. I'll probable epoxy the box instead of tape though. Do you have a video for replacing the HEATER CORE as well? Might not be a bad Idea to do both at the same time? Thanks again!!!!
Good vid. Gotta do something similar to my 96 Chevy Tahoe I call "Big Papa!" You can call yours "Lamont" instead of "Big Dummy," and folks won't be offended!! LOL
Doing this now on my 03 Tahoe. Ordered the part in links and the new evaporator does NOT come with new studs. This idea is a great time saving idea. 👍👍👍
Thanks I have a 03 Escalade with the same issue and because it’s a “ Escalade “ it’s extremely high priced job but I think I’m going to do it just like this
This IS a good hack to save money. That said , cut a "heel out of the bottom of a gallon coolant/oil jug and set it in under the evap to try to get the condensate on it's way to the exit tube and try to be VERY careful cutting out that lower spot and be VERY meticulous when sealing the bottom up ; you'll be surprised how much it will leak onto the floor if you don't.
Great job. I'm in an ac issue right now myself. hopefully not the evap, but if so I have a plan. lmk when you figure a hack for a heater core in a 92-96 Corvette. I'm in the northeast too. but luckily Vette in garage all winter. thanks again.
Good job! I’d have had him charge it before throwing it back together. Just to make sure it didn’t have to come back out. Lol. This will save a lot of people a lot of money.
good video. I have an 02 tahoe and my friend put all new ac component is execpt the evaporator... still leaks. I have had no AC for 6 years...... I may just try this.
After watching this video I have decided to use this "hack" method; I hope Mr. Axle is still monitoring this video because I have a few questions. 1. What did you do, go to an auto A/C shop and have them evacuate the system of Freon? then install the new evaporator and then go back to reload the system? 2. I looked at the aftermarket evaporator you gave the link to and found reviews mentioning that O-rings did not come with the new evaporator and that he had a problem with the old O-rings and finding new ones. You did not mention the O-rings; where did you get O-rings and where do the O-rings go? 3. What stops the bolts from sliding out when you push the evaporator into place? Do the bolt holes in the new evaporator have threads to hold the bolts in place? 3. Instead of cutting to an inch from the bottom, do you think it would be okay to go only one-half inch from the bottom? And would that help make it easier to remove the old evaporator but not cause other problems you mentioned? would those lateral cuts going backward near the bottom still be necessary? Thanks for that encouraging video, and I hope you can answer my questions. Going crazy down here in South Florida with no A/C in the POS Avalanche. Believe it or not it is a 2005, still has less than 90k miles, and has various problems; the other PITA problem it has is that gas station pump nozzle repeatedly shuts off while fueling it. That might be another good video for you to do; everyone I talk to with an Avalanche has the same problem.
1. Freon had already leaked out due to bad evap. 2. A/C shop will have new orings if needed, I reused my old ones that were still on the lines in engine compartment. O-rings go on end of lines where they connect to evap. 3 Studs are threaded on both ends, the evap in the link comes with new studs, your screw them into the evap hand tight, and nut goes on them on the firewall side. Yeah go a 1/2 inch, but when you tape it up use Flex Seal Tape instead of Gorilla or duct tape. Better seal and watertight at the bottom. I'm gonna do an update video, but it works well over a year later.
@@AxlesGarage Thanks for the reply. I said, "fuck it' and used this as an excuse to buy a new car. No more Chevrolets. The Avalanche is going to sit awhile … I might even scrap it, to do my part to reduce CO2.
Henry German, your gas nozzle kicking off is probably the evap vent solenoid. its mounted on the back of the gas tank. They were common problem with 2003-2008 ish cause the filter for the vent solenoid is all one piece with the solenoid. filter gets clogged from all the road dirt it sucks up.You can't clean it cause the solenoid vavle assembly itself is already cloged up. May, may not get a check engine evap code. GM has an updated vent solenoid (Rockauto has Acdelco evap vent solenoid with remote filter for about $80 non Acdelco valves are $45-75) You get a new solenoid but the filter is a seperate unit you'll also need about 12 feet of either 5/8 or 3/4 heater hose. and some hose clamps The heater hose connects to the solenoid housing you snake the hose up inside the frame rail going forward attaching other end to remote filter assembly and push it up on top of the transmission on the left side plastic tying the hose along the way.
I have to say that was a good idea rather than paying $1500. I think today it would even be more. The only thing different that I would have done is to find a way to put that bracket back in that holds the evaporator in place because if there is vibration it could cause another leak in the near future. I also think I'd try to JB Weld that metal piece back in that you cut out to stop any kind of vibration there as well. I must say you had a good idea here!!!!!
My only question is, without the bracket, while driving around does it rattle or hit anything? Or can you hear anything from under the dash, same thing with glovebox, since you cut off its support, does it hang or wobble or anything
Good video and tips. I have the same problem. At first I wanted to go the "purist" route, but what you did makes sense. I'd may try to use AC Duct tape to seal, which may be better. Or the new UV Activated Glue. Thanks.
Hey Axle.....would you make the cut on the housing bigger so you don't need to make the relief cuts? And if using Flex Tape do you need to grind or file the edges of the plastic or can you just wrap it with the Flex tape?
Add the cabin air filter!! They sell a kit that you cut out the little plastic and then you add the included plastics access door and the screw and you’re done!
Yeah, what I meant was that if you don't seal up the evap box good, air will leak out and your flow through the vents is diminished, Thanks for watching.
Nice. If you want, I can publish a counter video, sometimes called the hard way. I spent a few decades of my life taking the dash out in fleet and dealerships. No, I don't recommend it at home in your driveway. I'd rather change head gaskets than replace the evaporator core.
After watching the video I was thinking why not screw 2 screws in the back of the evap or even screw a handle on to make it easier to remove I'm thinking having more controll of the removal u would crack the case anymore. But u showed a great time saver.
I don’t have a leak or anything but I have a really bad musky smell and have tried everything to get rid of it. Would changing out the coil fix my problem?
@@roetemeteor the carpet isn’t even in the car so I know it’s not that I’ve tried everything on my thing I haven’t is change out the evaporator. And I almost never have condensation coming out the tube either
Brother I got to say, when you said you was going to cut that dash, hacking it up made me uneasy. I to own a 99 suburban and my evaporator to had to be replaced. But I got very lucky and had a mechanic replace mine for $300.00. I wouldn't have replaced it but it just so happens that this pertickuler suburban gets 19 to 20 mpg so I like the tk. And it rides great. I understand your theory about older vichile and now that i watched your video and see that it's not a bad way to replace a evaporator in one of these tks. If i ever need to replace one in this typ tk. Agen i believe I'll try your method. Thank you sir.
Hey Axle....I'm interested in doing this job but I have 2 questions: (1) what if the evaporator fails and needs to be replaced again....cutting the housing box again will work or will it be too much of a cut to reseal? (2) Is there a way to seal the plastic pieces a bit better so it's a neater job?
OK 1. If you use tape, and I would recommend Flex Tape, you can just cut the tape to open it up without having do do any cutting on the plastic, probably making the job very easy the second time around. 2. You can use JB weld or some other type of epoxy or you can plastic weld. However, I think flex Tape would be the best option.
So you think the flex tape is the better option over plastic welding it? And do you recommend wrapping the plastic with the flex tape first the lining it up and taping it to the housing box?
Hey just wanted to ask, What brand was that Evaporator? I followed the link you posted but on the reviews for that Evaporator you posted alot of people said it didnt include the studs. Just wanting to make sure.
The link is the exact one I used, and it came with the bolts even though it said it didn't. If it comes without, they are pretty standard metric at the hardware store. Thanks for watching.
I can break my truck down to parts in an hour...its about having the right tools and knowing where the fasteners are..once you know that..they come apart like kids toys.
I was going to try this on a 2006 Chevy Trailblazer but there seems to be a brace which extends over the upper portion of the box. It doesn't appear to be room to tilt the evaporator out of there. In your video that brace is not there. It extends down about 4-5 inches below the top of the box where the evaporator sits.
The one linked seems to come with studs for some and without for some, must be a multi-manufacturer part. You should be able to find studs that work at a hardware store.
I am literally in the process of removing my core and I am at minute 21:12 of your process and the core does not want to come out.It comes out of the black housing about 2-3 inches about even with the glove box bracket that is cut and then stops and feels hung up.I didn't make the relief cuts on the bottom of the box to bend it down like you did in your video, is this necessary?Help its driving me crazy.The truck is a 2005 chevy duramax diesel 2500 hd.It pretty much looks exactly like what you did in your video.
I needed the relief cuts to get it out, as the bottom of the evap was getting hung up on the plastic. Also, there is a metal strap like bracket holding the evap, you need to pull it out hard enough to overcome the bracket and yank it all out. you wont be using the bracket with the new one.
@@1JamesHamilton1 that's not nice it's his car so he can fix it how he wants to and he has helped many people so thanks for the video you going to have haters 😂
Quick question, can anybody tell me if a clogged up evaporator cause compressor to release freon from pressure release valve.? Its a 2002 Silverado 1500 with a 5.3 engine. Has new compressor, new dryer, and new orifice tube... only things not replaced yet are condenser and evaporator core.... I did remove condenser and blew into it to see if air would flow through it and it did, not sure if it blew out freely as it should but it's definitely not clogged up, maybe not clogged up entirely but still obstructed in some way??? Or could my evaporator be the culprit?.... help please.
***1-Year Update*** Video Here: ruclips.net/video/21alQztCi_A/видео.html
Excellent Hack Brother 😀🤠👍
Hii my 2017 yukon needs evaporator replaced would this work on my truck?
Great video. Just saved me a fortune. GM should have an access door for these repairs. My wife will have AC again which means I'm out of the dog house. Thanks You.
Glad we could help, Thanks for watching.
***1-Year Update*** Video Here: ruclips.net/video/21alQztCi_A/видео.html
You go to the dog house before the ac in a not so new truck went out? Does she pay for the house?
I'm surprised nobody's come up with a 3D printed a replacement door.
Let me tell you something this actually works thank you for putting this video up because it truly was a huge blessing.
Glad it helped
I was screaming at you to get a multi-tool. I'm glad you heard me. Best tool out there for cutting plastic like that.
LOL, it was the perfect tool for the job
One of the BEST HACKS for the GM trucks platform.. 💯👍🏽
Thank you
I did this on my 01 gmc Sierra, I used my grinder with a thin blade,had it cut in seconds, when I put it back together I used epoxy to tack it in place and used a high quality silicone to seal, three months later and zero problems, can still access cabin air filters easily. Blowing cold air and I'm happy and saved a lot of heartache.
Was not impressed with this hack so went and watched a few videos on evap removal. WTF!!! now i have decided to do it this way LOL
Yeah, I get it. The hack is holding up well. Still blowing cold with no leaks in the box. Thanks for watching.
bleedat
@@AxlesGarage I CUT STUFF ALL THE TIME ..AND ORDER LT WEIGHT SHEET METAL...AND PRECUT BARS...AND FIX THINGS JUST LIKE THAT...FOR EXACTLY THE SAME REASON..YOU PAY $2700 HUNDRED FOR A 05 CHEVY ...YOUR NOT GOING TO PAY $1800 TO GET IT FIX..NOT GOING TO HAPPEN...AT SOME POINT YOU BECOME A DIY...GUY"...LOVE IT..**ONE#1**
***1-Year Update*** Video Here: ruclips.net/video/21alQztCi_A/видео.html
Ikr
Just got mine out last night in my Suburban. The multitool is awesome. $18 at Harbor Freight with one blade. I did have to make 2 additional cuts on the right because I didn't wanna go too far if I didn't have to. I suppose the best advice is to cut just to the left of that screw that holds the top and bottom of the housing together on the right side. But even still it sure was a booger to get out, and I didn't wanna break the bottom so I didn't cut too much which I think would have helped. It was that plastic mountain bracket that kept it stuck in there pretty good. So after a lot of prying with a screwdriver and a claw hammer I finally got it out. Maybe about an hour an a half total last night. Gonna order a new one today. Thanks for the vid!
Glad to help, use Flex Tape to tape it up, works much better than the gorilla tape.
@@AxlesGarage I saved the $15 and used flashing tape because I had some already. Works good but still has a glue smell. I do have a soaking wet passenger floor now and the evaporator appears to be draining properly but I can't find where it's coming from. Once the weather cools off I'll look into it more. I'd rather have a wet floor than no ac.
God bless you brother. This is getting done out of the box. However I think if ever and may have to, I'll go with longer install. Looks great though good on you. This is the American spirit that makes us great. Hope it all continues. God bless
Thanks for the kind words
Omg fantastic I just did this to my 99 Silverado has the cabin filters in there took me 45 min to do whole job thank you so much they should make the dam thing able to open up anyway
Great to hear! Thanks for watching.
i just did the "Hack" and it went pretty well. After making the relief cuts in the plastic it was quite an effort to get the old evap out, but I did it. The old evap flange (at the firewall) kept getting caught on the the screw "nubs" that are on the inside (top) of the case. I found it helped to put a large screwdriver through the firewall and push down on the flange to get it by those pesky "nubs". I purchased the new evap from your link and it did NOT come with studs. I bought some at my local Hardware.Store.. no big deal. I brought the truck to my local AC shop to place new O-rings, tighten the nuts down, and charge the system. They just reported to me that the evap flange did not match together "perfectly" at the firewall (one pipe would not seat). They are going to try to make it work with double washers on that pipe. If you read through the AMAZON comments on this particular evap you will see that others have had the same problem. I suggest buying a different brand for a few more $$$. I will report back to let you know if the double washer plan works.. I really don't feel like taking it out and returning it... so my fingers are crossed! Thanks for the video!! I am optimistic it 's going to work! Flex Tape is the way to go.
Good Info, Thank you. I did not have that issue on the firewall side.
Great video. Thank you. I only cut 1 side from the metal bar and bend it . I put duck tape to hold together the metal and plastic bar of the glove compartment after I finish.
That's a great idea! Did it all work out for you?
I did it like this also, then cut a small piece of metal with a couple pop rivits on each side. Good as new.
Great Video! Saved me a bunch of time and money on my '03 Tahoe. Hardest part of the job is getting old evaporator out. Take your time I jerked mine out and broke part of the airbox which took extra time to repair. Put a flat bar under the evaporator so the fins don't catch on the box when removing and installing. I used adhesive silicone to make an air tight patch when putting the airbox back together.
Nice work!
Fantastic job they were like that before. I'm glad You had the nerve to do it like that thank you So much
Thanks for watching!
you got my vote on this hack repair so much that I'm doing it this weekend
Please let us know how you make out.
@@AxlesGarage worked out so well I did it for a few friends and got paid
Axle you are the man, fellow New Yorker down here in Cape Coral Fl. Well my 2009 Escalade does not have a cabin fileter and am tired of hearing the wife saying i can smell all the fumes from out side. So decided to put a $60.00 holy shit cabin filter in with bracket supplied. Tried cutting with knife, too hard. So got a jig saw and yes that's right pooked a hole in the Evaporator. Just watched you video and thank you, you saved me a lot of money. Keep up the Vid's and really enjoy ( What accent lol ) Tom Rizzo of Cape Coral or as we call if from New York ( Cape C O M A lol) Ciao my man.
Glad we could help. No accent here LOL. Thanks for Watching.
This was a big I deal and a big help I just change my evap in my Tahoe…. Big thanks to you
Glad to help
Took me 12hrs, but I was chasing a leaking heater core. I replaced the evap and blend door actuators while I was there and yes it was a "nightmare" job.
Thanks for watching.
Good job I don't consider it a hack job and I'm a guy that's pretty picky about things being done right but I look at all you did was making access door which GM should have done and you saved a lot of money so I give you a thumbs up in all truth nobody'll know no difference hope you're enjoying your cold air thanks for the video
Glad we could help, Thanks for watching.
***1-Year Update*** Video Here: ruclips.net/video/21alQztCi_A/видео.html
That's not hillbilly hack its Mexican ingenuity !! 😉😝😂😂 love it. Im subscribing and liking !! Thanks for the video.
Awesome! Thank you!
Hell, I just found my next teacher... These cars are ours set it up how you want since we're the ones who has to work on them..... I'm your next subscriber
Welcome aboard and thanks for watching.
Nice job, good sensible hack. Most important cold air!
Yes indeed!
really liked your video, i am replacing just about every component to my 2006 Escalade ESV. I didn't think I would need to replace the evaporator, but then thought if I do the compressor, accumulator, condenser, etc, and then the evap needs replacing, I'm screwed. So I'm going to try your short cut. I was impressed with the video, will help me a lot.
Glad we could help
These trucks are so easy to work on with the exception of a few things. One is the evap core. Another is the damn heater core. Hack or not you did a kick ass job. My 23 year old truck finally lost the air conditioning. But it lasted 23 years which is not bad when you think about how they build shit now.
Love these trucks
Now that's a good video! And a public service too.
Thank you
Super good job and a very smart short cot and effective.
A year later still blowing cold. Thanks for watching.
***1-Year Update*** Video Here: ruclips.net/video/21alQztCi_A/видео.html
Nice job! i watched until end but i was eagerly awaiting the final result after charging A/C system. Im sure all was good. Thanks for the video, it is truly informative.
Glad you liked it! We did a one year update video, still running good
I got a 1997 Chevy ck 3500 my air conditioner is not blowing good and got a leak I can't see been trying to figure out how to get evaporator core out thanks this looks much easier than removing dash already got the right saw.
Great, Good luck on the hack
Well made video! You made a difficult job look easy...can't wait for the update!
Coming soon
***1-Year Update*** Video Here: ruclips.net/video/21alQztCi_A/видео.html
I know this video has been "up" awhile, but I wanted to say "thank you" for posting it. "Old" cars develop AC problems ... just comes with age/use of such systems in cars, and it takes guys with just the right combination of stubbornness, stinginess, and well, yeah ... a little bit of stupid ... to come up with creative ways to tackle them, and keep their older cars working longer. I got a dozen belly laughs out of this "hillbilly hack," as you called it, and your video did a great job documenting how you went about doing it. Very clever!
This is one of those nagging, common problems with no easy fix. In my limited experience (and after watching quite a few videos on dash removal for this and other, similar cars), it's gotta be pretty much the same (or even worse) with all cars because the evaporator/heater cores are always buried somewhere deep under/behind the dash, in a ventilation housing pressed up against the firewall, covered by a zillion other controls, accessories, parts, etc.
After watching the original video and later "update," I SERIOUSLY considered giving it a try to replace the original evaporator in my 2001 Suburban 1500, but in the end, I'm a stickler about using OEM equipment/repair approaches; I've tried to do that on all the DIY repairs I've done to keep this car in great shape, and concluded that the "cons" of making those kinds of brute "alterations" to the OE ventilation system outweigh the "pros," at least for me and this particular car. For example, IF I decide to pay a mechanic, or attempt this massive job myself, to GET AT and replace the OE evaporator (which I'm sure is at least a ghastly mess, if not leaking as well), I'm going to want to replace the OE heater core too, and that means, i.e., doing whatever's necessary to remove the dash, properly remove/open up the ventilation housing, and doing the whole job "according to Hoyle." For other cars/owners who are not as concerned about such minutiae, this looks to me like a great compromise on the big issues of, e.g., utility, effectiveness and relative cost. Again, thanks for creating and posting the video.
Well done Mr. Driveway Mechanic.
Now we all know how to install the missing access door.
I may need this for a good friend's truck, thank you ahead of time!
edit: Going to grab that HF tool & hit the Chinese buffet next door.
Thanks for watching and BTW, Buffets are my favorite
@ Thanks for the kind words
***1-Year Update*** Video Here: ruclips.net/video/21alQztCi_A/видео.html
Dude! You're the shit! I have the AllData for my 2004 Burban and the labor is about 6 hrs. At $90/hr. That's $540! You just potentially saved me a bunch of money. I'm gonna try this DIY repair and I'll let you know how it goes, you big dummy!
Glad to help, Thanks for watching
Just cut out the old evaporator. Had some issues with the new evaporator, didn't come with studs. Trying to get replacement studs now. I'll let you know how it goes....
😂 Love the hack! Only thing I found to seal it all back up... Quick set gorilla crazy glue the gel type works better then the tape. Besides that what a wonderful way to save money and do it your self project. I give this video Ten Thumbs Up 😎 👍.
Thanks, btw it is still running strong several years later
Great video i just got that problem they trying to charge me 1300 to get done but i think i will do your way also there i a way to replace the actuator the one that changes the air flow directions to wind shield and vents?
And does the acc is working fine with no leaks With no leaks on your duct tape hack?
Thank you very much
underneath the driver side dash
***1-Year Update*** Video Here: ruclips.net/video/21alQztCi_A/видео.html
Just curious, how did this hold up? Needing to do the same thing to my tahoe soon. Just waiting on the parts to come in the mail.
So far so good, A/C worked great all summer and the Gorilla Tape held up and remains to seal the box. Thanks for watching.
***1-Year Update*** Video Here: ruclips.net/video/21alQztCi_A/видео.html
Thanks brother. you have made life a lot easier for me.
Glad to help
Great video! Look like I’ll be doing my 05 Z-71 Tahoe da same way 👍🏾💪🏾
Thank you, 3 years later still working.
Nicely done and that oscillating cutter will be a real favorite tool for so many jobs you won't know how you lived without it. Awesome for drywall cut outs and carpentry in general too. I grew up in Westchester so I understood every word LOL👍😎👌
Thanks for watching
Holy smoke this video was great. Been with no ac on my 2001 silverado for 2 years cause I didn't want to spend time and money to pull dash. Gonna get right on this one. Thank you. Oh and I liked the nickname Big Dummy lol!!!
Glad to help and thanks for watching.
Great video! Got quoted a bundle to replace the evaporator core in my 2006 Yukon Xl Denali with 300K miles. I'm following your lead on this. Hope it goes as well for me. I'll probable epoxy the box instead of tape though. Do you have a video for replacing the HEATER CORE as well? Might not be a bad Idea to do both at the same time? Thanks again!!!!
Nothing on the hearter core yet, but the evap has lasted 3+ years
Thank you so much. You just saved me a lot of time.
Glad we could help, Thanks for watching.
***1-Year Update*** Video Here: ruclips.net/video/21alQztCi_A/видео.html
Good vid. Gotta do something similar to my 96 Chevy Tahoe I call "Big Papa!" You can call yours "Lamont" instead of "Big Dummy," and folks won't be offended!! LOL
Thanks for watching.
thank you...you r saving me lots of money...on this repair...👍
Glad we could help, Thanks for watching.
***1-Year Update*** Video Here: ruclips.net/video/21alQztCi_A/видео.html
Nice hack I'm facing this job in the Arizona heat.im doing it.thanks
Glad we could help
Doing this now on my 03 Tahoe. Ordered the part in links and the new evaporator does NOT come with new studs. This idea is a great time saving idea. 👍👍👍
Good luck, almost 2 years and still going strong for me.
@@AxlesGarage worked like a champ!!
That's not a hack job that's American engineering thanks for the lesson
Glad we could help, Thanks for watching.
***1-Year Update*** Video Here: ruclips.net/video/21alQztCi_A/видео.html
engineering better than original
Next transmission filter bracket and shift cable
knew it thanx man fk that dash pulling bs been dreading evap changefor years now i can feel way better about doing it
Nice job now I know how to do it the easy way thanks a lot 👍🏻😀❤️
You’re welcome 😊 and mine is still going strong with no issues.
Thanks I have a 03 Escalade with the same issue and because it’s a “ Escalade “ it’s extremely high priced job but I think I’m going to do it just like this
Over 3 years later still going good.
That was excellent, who would ever know, great job!
Thank yo so much for the comment.
This IS a good hack to save money. That said , cut a "heel out of the bottom of a gallon coolant/oil jug and set it in under the evap to try to get the condensate on it's way to the exit tube and try to be VERY careful cutting out that lower spot and be VERY meticulous when sealing the bottom up ; you'll be surprised how much it will leak onto the floor if you don't.
Thanks for the suggestions
***1-Year Update*** Video Here: ruclips.net/video/21alQztCi_A/видео.html
Great job! Good clean hack considering value of truck. Cold air
We agree!
Great job. I'm in an ac issue right now myself. hopefully not the evap, but if so I have a plan. lmk when you figure a hack for a heater core in a 92-96 Corvette. I'm in the northeast too. but luckily Vette in garage all winter. thanks again.
Thanks for watching
***1-Year Update*** Video Here: ruclips.net/video/21alQztCi_A/видео.html
Good job! I’d have had him charge it before throwing it back together. Just to make sure it didn’t have to come back out. Lol. This will save a lot of people a lot of money.
Thanks for watching
Axle's Garage you’re welcome.
f-ed up thing is the evap is the first thing that fails. Nice job thanks from Rocky Point LI
Thanks for watching
@@AxlesGarage hey man, are there o rings that go between fittings on the studs. I'm getting a faint hiss, unless my drier sprung a leak..
Yes and o-ring on each hard metal hose that attaches to evap.
Good job on a money saving technique ,that while it may sacrifice quality, it is a good fiscal decision that is in-line with the car's value.
exactly my thought
GREAT video. Very helpful. Thanks guys!
Glad to help. Thanks for watching.
good video. I have an 02 tahoe and my friend put all new ac component is execpt the evaporator... still leaks. I have had no AC for 6 years...... I may just try this.
Thanks for watching.
After watching this video I have decided to use this "hack" method; I hope Mr. Axle is still monitoring this video because I have a few questions. 1. What did you do, go to an auto A/C shop and have them evacuate the system of Freon? then install the new evaporator and then go back to reload the system? 2. I looked at the aftermarket evaporator you gave the link to and found reviews mentioning that O-rings did not come with the new evaporator and that he had a problem with the old O-rings and finding new ones. You did not mention the O-rings; where did you get O-rings and where do the O-rings go? 3. What stops the bolts from sliding out when you push the evaporator into place? Do the bolt holes in the new evaporator have threads to hold the bolts in place? 3. Instead of cutting to an inch from the bottom, do you think it would be okay to go only one-half inch from the bottom? And would that help make it easier to remove the old evaporator but not cause other problems you mentioned? would those lateral cuts going backward near the bottom still be necessary? Thanks for that encouraging video, and I hope you can answer my questions. Going crazy down here in South Florida with no A/C in the POS Avalanche. Believe it or not it is a 2005, still has less than 90k miles, and has various problems; the other PITA problem it has is that gas station pump nozzle repeatedly shuts off while fueling it. That might be another good video for you to do; everyone I talk to with an Avalanche has the same problem.
1. Freon had already leaked out due to bad evap.
2. A/C shop will have new orings if needed, I reused my old ones that were still on the lines in engine compartment. O-rings go on end of lines where they connect to evap.
3 Studs are threaded on both ends, the evap in the link comes with new studs, your screw them into the evap hand tight, and nut goes on them on the firewall side.
Yeah go a 1/2 inch, but when you tape it up use Flex Seal Tape instead of Gorilla or duct tape. Better seal and watertight at the bottom.
I'm gonna do an update video, but it works well over a year later.
@@AxlesGarage Thanks for the reply. I said, "fuck it' and used this as an excuse to buy a new car. No more Chevrolets. The Avalanche is going to sit awhile … I might even scrap it, to do my part to reduce CO2.
***1-Year Update*** Video Here: ruclips.net/video/21alQztCi_A/видео.html
Henry German, your gas nozzle kicking off is probably the evap vent solenoid. its mounted on the back of the gas tank. They were common problem with 2003-2008 ish cause the filter for the vent solenoid is all one piece with the solenoid. filter gets clogged from all the road dirt it sucks up.You can't clean it cause the solenoid vavle assembly itself is already cloged up. May, may not get a check engine evap code. GM has an updated vent solenoid (Rockauto has Acdelco evap vent solenoid with remote filter for about $80 non Acdelco valves are $45-75) You get a new solenoid but the filter is a seperate unit you'll also need about 12 feet of either 5/8 or 3/4 heater hose. and some hose clamps The heater hose connects to the solenoid housing you snake the hose up inside the frame rail going forward attaching other end to remote filter assembly and push it up on top of the transmission on the left side plastic tying the hose along the way.
Good info right there!
***1-Year Update*** Video Here: ruclips.net/video/21alQztCi_A/видео.html
Do you remember exactly what bolts or size 2 that you used im in the same predicament right now
I do not, at the time of purchase, the bolts came with the evap
I have to say that was a good idea rather than paying $1500. I think today it would even be more. The only thing different that I would have done is to find a way to put that bracket back in that holds the evaporator in place because if there is vibration it could cause another leak in the near future. I also think I'd try to JB Weld that metal piece back in that you cut out to stop any kind of vibration there as well. I must say you had a good idea here!!!!!
Good tip and thanks
I like the guy that said "there's no wrong way to eat a Reese's"
yes sir
My only question is, without the bracket, while driving around does it rattle or hit anything? Or can you hear anything from under the dash, same thing with glovebox, since you cut off its support, does it hang or wobble or anything
The evap doesnt move as its hard piped through the firewall, I do get a little cricket rattle from the glove box, working on a fix for that.
@@AxlesGarage if you get a fix for it let me know, i want ac again but my biggest pet peve is rattling
***1-Year Update*** Video Here: ruclips.net/video/21alQztCi_A/видео.html
Eso fue muy bueno .Me tomo 1 HORA y ahorre mucho dinero.gracias...
Thanks for watching.
Job well-done Brother, probably saved my life.
Thanks
...........
Glad we could help, Thanks for watching.
***1-Year Update*** Video Here: ruclips.net/video/21alQztCi_A/видео.html
Good video and tips. I have the same problem. At first I wanted to go the "purist" route, but what you did makes sense. I'd may try to use AC Duct tape to seal, which may be better. Or the new UV Activated Glue. Thanks.
I'm finishing up my 3rd summer since the repair. Still going strong, if I were to do it again, I would use Flex Tape
Hey Axle.....would you make the cut on the housing bigger so you don't need to make the relief cuts? And if using Flex Tape do you need to grind or file the edges of the plastic or can you just wrap it with the Flex tape?
Go big and just wrap it. Flex tape is great
@@AxlesGarage I am going to try that and JB Weld. I will let you know how it goes.
Add the cabin air filter!! They sell a kit that you cut out the little plastic and then you add the included plastics access door and the screw and you’re done!
Good idea
"Good Air Flow"
Probally better than it was before, being all clogged up with years of dust n dirt
Yeah, what I meant was that if you don't seal up the evap box good, air will leak out and your flow through the vents is diminished, Thanks for watching.
***1-Year Update*** Video Here: ruclips.net/video/21alQztCi_A/видео.html
if you use it on recirc only it wont bring in crap from outside
Nice. If you want, I can publish a counter video, sometimes called the hard way. I spent a few decades of my life taking the dash out in fleet and dealerships. No, I don't recommend it at home in your driveway. I'd rather change head gaskets than replace the evaporator core.
After watching the video I was thinking why not screw 2 screws in the back of the evap or even screw a handle on to make it easier to remove I'm thinking having more controll of the removal u would crack the case anymore. But u showed a great time saver.
That's not a bad idea
While your their can you change the heater core ?
I don't believe its in the same spot, I don't recall seeing it when we did the Evap
***1-Year Update*** Video Here: ruclips.net/video/21alQztCi_A/видео.html
First Class, I now know what to do if mine ever goes pear-shaped. Thank You Keep rockin' Gus. UK
Thanks for Watching.
I don’t have a leak or anything but I have a really bad musky smell and have tried everything to get rid of it. Would changing out the coil fix my problem?
Likely. You could also, stay with me here, spray some lysol into your ac air intake located near your windshield before ripping up your car.
@@roetemeteor oh I’ve done that twice now bro the musky smell won’t go away !
@@roetemeteor the carpet isn’t even in the car so I know it’s not that I’ve tried everything on my thing I haven’t is change out the evaporator. And I almost never have condensation coming out the tube either
Maybe a heater core leaking?
@@AxlesGarage what are the symptoms ? Of a heat core leaking?
Brother I got to say, when you said you was going to cut that dash, hacking it up made me uneasy. I to own a 99 suburban and my evaporator to had to be replaced. But I got very lucky and had a mechanic replace mine for $300.00. I wouldn't have replaced it but it just so happens that this pertickuler suburban gets 19 to 20 mpg so I like the tk. And it rides great. I understand your theory about older vichile and now that i watched your video and see that it's not a bad way to replace a evaporator in one of these tks. If i ever need to replace one in this typ tk. Agen i believe I'll try your method. Thank you sir.
Thanks for watching, 2 years later it still works.
Awesome Video, very fun to watch 👏🏽🤙🏽
Thanks for watching.
I bet that durabond tape would work great to seal that back up...I appreciate your posts...
Yeah thats a good idea, I was thinking Flex-Tape
your the best to save money, thank you
Glad we could help. Thanks for watching.
I just replaced everything except this an thought I blew 400 bucks till I saw this. Just got tool from harbor freight here we go.... thanks
Let us know how it works out
@@AxlesGarage well sadly a 95 yukon is different an I cant get at it.
Gimme the swazall 😅 love it
Thanks for watching.
I wonder why they got rid of the cabin air filters on the 03 and up gmt800’s
Hey Axle....I'm interested in doing this job but I have 2 questions: (1) what if the evaporator fails and needs to be replaced again....cutting the housing box again will work or will it be too much of a cut to reseal? (2) Is there a way to seal the plastic pieces a bit better so it's a neater job?
OK
1. If you use tape, and I would recommend Flex Tape, you can just cut the tape to open it up without having do do any cutting on the plastic, probably making the job very easy the second time around.
2. You can use JB weld or some other type of epoxy or you can plastic weld. However, I think flex Tape would be the best option.
So you think the flex tape is the better option over plastic welding it? And do you recommend wrapping the plastic with the flex tape first the lining it up and taping it to the housing box?
yes, that's what I would do, if I had to do it again or on another vehicle.
Hey just wanted to ask, What brand was that Evaporator? I followed the link you posted but on the reviews for that Evaporator you posted alot of people said it didnt include the studs. Just wanting to make sure.
The link is the exact one I used, and it came with the bolts even though it said it didn't. If it
comes without, they are pretty standard metric at the hardware store.
Thanks for watching.
***1-Year Update*** Video Here: ruclips.net/video/21alQztCi_A/видео.html
I can break my truck down to parts in an hour...its about having the right tools and knowing where the fasteners are..once you know that..they come apart like kids toys.
Thanks for watching.
Very nicely done. btw, my mother always called me a "bleep'n idiot!" Lol
Thanks for watching
Did you inspect to see what caused the leak to begin with? Like possibly a rubbing wear spot?
No rubbing, the core just sprung a leak. It's not uncommon. Almost like a radiator going bad.
Honestly great video great job.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you man I will tray your way tomorow morning
Thanks for watching
***1-Year Update*** Video Here: ruclips.net/video/21alQztCi_A/видео.html
I was going to try this on a 2006 Chevy Trailblazer but there seems to be a brace which extends over the upper portion of the box. It doesn't appear to be room to tilt the evaporator out of there. In your video that brace is not there. It extends down about 4-5 inches below the top of the box where the evaporator sits.
Yes, this doesn't work on all vehicles.
What do we use for the stud? The old stud is not treaded.. at the bottom
It is presses in
The one linked seems to come with studs for some and without for some, must be a multi-manufacturer part. You should be able to find studs that work at a hardware store.
I have the same problem that's a great idea cause taking the dash out it's way too much work tks bud
No problem 👍
Would this work on an 03 Hummer H2?
Is there a hack for the heater core?
I am literally in the process of removing my core and I am at minute 21:12 of your process and the core does not want to come out.It comes out of the black housing about 2-3 inches about even with the glove box bracket that is cut and then stops and feels hung up.I didn't make the relief cuts on the bottom of the box to bend it down like you did in your video, is this necessary?Help its driving me crazy.The truck is a 2005 chevy duramax diesel 2500 hd.It pretty much looks exactly like what you did in your video.
I needed the relief cuts to get it out, as the bottom of the evap was getting hung up on the plastic. Also, there is a metal strap like bracket holding the evap, you need to pull it out hard enough to overcome the bracket and yank it all out. you wont be using the bracket with the new one.
Easier just to pull the dash! I just replaced my heater core by pulling the entire box out. It's about 6hr job but no hacking required.
***1-Year Update*** Video Here: ruclips.net/video/21alQztCi_A/видео.html
I hope I never end up with anything he has ever worked on. I know I would never buy anything from him.
@@1JamesHamilton1 that's not nice it's his car so he can fix it how he wants to and he has helped many people so thanks for the video you going to have haters 😂
how can I fully diagnose my A.C. leak to figure out the exact issue
Leak Detector:
amzn.to/3Bs45nK
Nice fuckn job man. Thanks for the info
Thanks for watching.
At the beginning of the video I thought he said "Welcome to assholes garage" lol
Yeah sometimes
Quick question, can anybody tell me if a clogged up evaporator cause compressor to release freon from pressure release valve.? Its a 2002 Silverado 1500 with a 5.3 engine. Has new compressor, new dryer, and new orifice tube... only things not replaced yet are condenser and evaporator core.... I did remove condenser and blew into it to see if air would flow through it and it did, not sure if it blew out freely as it should but it's definitely not clogged up, maybe not clogged up entirely but still obstructed in some way??? Or could my evaporator be the culprit?.... help please.
Could be a variety of things, you really need to hook up a manifold gauge set and see where your pressures are at.