Thanks for your great video. That is the next job i Need to do on my l322. A few weeks ago i changed pur the coupling rods but Not the bushings…🙈. I‘m still learning 🤷♂️ All the best from Austria
Wonderfully done....TY............Great advise at the end........ Can't wait for your next vid..... You're giving me and everyone else the Power.....God Bless.... BTW - 1st time buyer of a 2012 LR4 V8 103k mi....3 weeks ago... I know how to use a wrench...so your vids will help immensely...
That’s great to hear, I’m sure you’ll love the v8. I’m putting together a video series covering the replacement of the front and rear crossover pipes as well as all the components that you need to remove to get to them. Check back soon for that as you’ll be replacing them every 60-70k miles.
Hey there, I just found your channel after buying a LR4 last month... Man, your videos are great! Awesome camera angles; explanations perfect for my level (not a mechanics); lots of tips to pick up along the way and some cool humor on top of everything! I think you have a good receipe, keep at it! Cheers from Canada!
i just changed the front struts, lower and upper arms, ball joints and sway links on my TDV8 2008 L322 (300K kms), what a difference it made! still, I forgot about the bushings! now there is that knock you were talking about, next job after the rear shocks, the rear has started to make a horrible noise recently and i noticed the dampers were leaking oil!
Just found you and subbed immediately I'm a landrover nut . I have a late 2013 l320 Sport . A total DIY approach when I can . Keep the videos coming top class stuff . From Manchester 🇬🇧
That’s great to hear. These are totally diy’able with the right info. Thanks for subscribing. I’ve a series I’m putting together about the coolant system cross over pipe replacement which covers all the belts, water pump, intake valve inspection and supercharger inspection. So look out for that. It’s basically the same for any of the supercharged V6 or V8 petrol/gas engines that are in the range rovers/land rovers/Jaguars
To take a break from drum brakes that are doing my head in, I thought I'd accomplish something easy, to boost my flagging self confidence: I'll change the bushes at the front. One side is already up ready to change discs/pads. Two 10mm bolts; what could be easier. I have new wobble extensions that are going to validate my decision to buy them. The more the bolt is coming away the fighter it is, and I'm doing a bit on one bolt then the other to prevent any strain. They're both out 1/2" , one looks slightly angled... There's a strain somewhere... Maybe I have to take The new struts off, that have a sneaky plate t'other side requiring an extremely slim 17mm spanner... which I learned sloooowly when I was taking the old ones off. Then I find you. "Pre-loading", you say. So I just have to jack the other side up to the same height? I'll try that! Thanks for the clue. I can sleep soundly tonight.
Is your ARB the active type ? I have a 2008 RRS tdv8 that sounds like an old metal framed bed when I go over a slight bump . These seem to need replacing every 6 or 7 thousand miles in my experience, great video thanks
The anti toll bar is not active sadly. 6-7k mikes is not very long. At least they’re cheap enough. Maybe a poly bush would be better in the active installation. It’s something to look into. Great dog by the way. I grew up with old English sheepdogs.
Do you drop the vehicle before tightening the caps completely? Doesn’t the bar twist after lowering? I thought all suspension parts had to be under load before final tightening. Just wondering
You don’t really need to if you lift the car on axle stands. The main thing is that you have as little load on the sway/anti roll bar as possible. This makes the job easier.
Strictly speaking no. But I always err on the side of safety and use them. If you’re in a bind then you can lift the vehicle from the center of the front crossmember (have a look in the manual about jacking points) and remove both front tires and slide them under the chassis as a safety precaution. Again I’d only use this in an emergency. Invest in a good set of axle stands. They’ll pay you back many times over.
Fantastic videos, beautifully explained and broken down for the driveway mechanic. Keep up the good work - looking forward to what you cover next!
Thanks for your great video. That is the next job i Need to do on my l322. A few weeks ago i changed pur the coupling rods but Not the bushings…🙈. I‘m still learning 🤷♂️ All the best from Austria
Once you start chasing worn bushes and linkages you never stop ha. But you’ll have a great driving Rover when you finish.
Wonderfully done....TY............Great advise at the end........ Can't wait for your next vid.....
You're giving me and everyone else the Power.....God Bless....
BTW - 1st time buyer of a 2012 LR4 V8 103k mi....3 weeks ago...
I know how to use a wrench...so your vids will help immensely...
That’s great to hear, I’m sure you’ll love the v8. I’m putting together a video series covering the replacement of the front and rear crossover pipes as well as all the components that you need to remove to get to them. Check back soon for that as you’ll be replacing them every 60-70k miles.
Hey there, I just found your channel after buying a LR4 last month... Man, your videos are great! Awesome camera angles; explanations perfect for my level (not a mechanics); lots of tips to pick up along the way and some cool humor on top of everything! I think you have a good receipe, keep at it! Cheers from Canada!
i just changed the front struts, lower and upper arms, ball joints and sway links on my TDV8 2008 L322 (300K kms), what a difference it made! still, I forgot about the bushings! now there is that knock you were talking about, next job after the rear shocks, the rear has started to make a horrible noise recently and i noticed the dampers were leaking oil!
That sounds like you’re really getting your L322 in great shape. Good luck.
Just found you and subbed immediately I'm a landrover nut . I have a late 2013 l320 Sport . A total DIY approach when I can . Keep the videos coming top class stuff . From Manchester 🇬🇧
That’s great to hear. These are totally diy’able with the right info. Thanks for subscribing. I’ve a series I’m putting together about the coolant system cross over pipe replacement which covers all the belts, water pump, intake valve inspection and supercharger inspection. So look out for that. It’s basically the same for any of the supercharged V6 or V8 petrol/gas engines that are in the range rovers/land rovers/Jaguars
@@wrenchnroverin222
Look forward to seeing them . Great content, keep them coming .
hey, thanks for the video, when lifting the truck did you lift the whole front up in 1 go or did you lift one side up at a time. thanks
Great Video would it be better using poly bushes in areas with bad weather like the UK so the rubber is lest likely to perish?
That’s the next job I need to do.
To take a break from drum brakes that are doing my head in, I thought I'd accomplish something easy, to boost my flagging self confidence: I'll change the bushes at the front. One side is already up ready to change discs/pads. Two 10mm bolts; what could be easier. I have new wobble extensions that are going to validate my decision to buy them. The more the bolt is coming away the fighter it is, and I'm doing a bit on one bolt then the other to prevent any strain. They're both out 1/2" , one looks slightly angled... There's a strain somewhere... Maybe I have to take The new struts off, that have a sneaky plate t'other side requiring an extremely slim 17mm spanner... which I learned sloooowly when I was taking the old ones off. Then I find you. "Pre-loading", you say. So I just have to jack the other side up to the same height? I'll try that! Thanks for the clue. I can sleep soundly tonight.
That’s right John. The bar needs to be horizontal. Either raised or lowered for the load to be equal, that’s the easiest way to change the bushes.
I’m also working on a brake video right now as well.
Excellent video bro! Thx!!!
Is your ARB the active type ? I have a 2008 RRS tdv8 that sounds like an old metal framed bed when I go over a slight bump . These seem to need replacing every 6 or 7 thousand miles in my experience, great video thanks
The anti toll bar is not active sadly. 6-7k mikes is not very long. At least they’re cheap enough. Maybe a poly bush would be better in the active installation. It’s something to look into. Great dog by the way. I grew up with old English sheepdogs.
@@wrenchnroverin222 Old English Sheepdogs are the reason I’ve had land rover’s all my life ……it’s the only car big enough 💪🤣🤣
Only the sports had active roll bars rr vogue or full size American have VDS magnetic struts 10 to 12
Cool video thanks man
Do you drop the vehicle before tightening the caps completely? Doesn’t the bar twist after lowering? I thought all suspension parts had to be under load before final tightening. Just wondering
The anti roll bar is constantly moving up and down. The suspension doesn't need to be loaded for this.
Great video. Any reason you wouldn't pop the front wheels off?
You don’t really need to if you lift the car on axle stands. The main thing is that you have as little load on the sway/anti roll bar as possible. This makes the job easier.
thanks for the video
Thankyou.
Does the vehicle need to be in jack stands etc to do this job
Strictly speaking no. But I always err on the side of safety and use them. If you’re in a bind then you can lift the vehicle from the center of the front crossmember (have a look in the manual about jacking points) and remove both front tires and slide them under the chassis as a safety precaution. Again I’d only use this in an emergency. Invest in a good set of axle stands. They’ll pay you back many times over.
What model of rr was this done on? And has this Range Rover got ACE system on as the bushings and brackets I believe are different? Thanks Aaron
????? No reply???