Commercial brewer here. Another way to hit your desired colour is again to hit your ph. It has an incredible effect on how colour leeches into the wort.
@@TheCraftBeerChannel The opposite, counter-intuitively I know. If you have too high a ph you often will get more/deeper/darker colour from the grains. But having the right ph will mean you hit your estimated EBC in your recipe. So if you want a reddish colour in your beer, but your ph is too high. You will see a much darker wort instead of what you imagined based on your recipe. Don't ask me the science behind this, as I am first learning about this myself. I just wanted to add my observations from work.
@@TheCraftBeerChannel yes, they are a lot of fun to make and woodworking and brewing are two great traditional crafts. I look forward to the next episode
Homebrewing tips, this is going to be my series for sure! My question is not about mashing, but here goes. My bottles always gush, or even explode upon opening, the taste of the beer that's left is fine. What can cause this? Am I adding too much sugar for refermentation relative to the batch size? Keep up the good work!
you need to ensure your fermentation is complete and there are no fermentables left before priming and use a calculator. I used to always add about 5% less than the recommendation as with time anyway carbonation will develop.
It's all been said! Use the Malt Miller calculator and be precise, under carbing if unsure. I find batch priming a little more reliable too as the drops are a one-size-doesn't-quite-fit-all solution.
So if the mash is too low on the ph. How can I raise it? I know if it's too high I can add a little lactic acid, I just don't know what to do on the reverse
Bicarbonate. Take some wort into a glass and mix. Add it to your Kettle. As for the amount it depends on how many litres you're making. Start with a few grams and test where that brings you before adding more. I've ever only had to adjust preboil after sparging because I over shot my lactic. Be warned that if your wort is hot it will cause a crazy foam to appear so add slowly and be careful
Beyond my scope at the moment, but still interesting and informative. Perhaps you could do a comparison/ pros and cons of the various all-grain systems that are available? For those of us that haven't quite made the leap to AG.
Is there any way of easily knowing how much mash water and sparge water to use ? Currently I just use the brewfarther software but would like to know how to work it out myself.
First, you need to work backward from the volume in the fermenter to the volume going into the kettle: Kettle volume = Fermenter Vol + boil evaporation(~10%) + loss to trub/hops. Once you know that you then get the mash volumes, so Kettle volume = Mash water Volume + Sparge water Volume - grain absorption. The grain will absorb about the same volume of water as its mass. And you'll want a Mash water volume about 3 times the grain mass. So that means Kettle volume = 2 * (Grain mass) + Sparge water volume, which tells us the sparge vol. Write it all out and it will become clear. Hope that helps.
Jon is bang on, but here is a really in-depth look at it for single infusion mashing: help.grainfather.com/hc/en-us/articles/360014617158-Calculation-Mash-and-Sparge-Water-Volume
Well,how big of a factor ph is? I'm using beersmith and measured to the T last time,no mater what I do.i can't get that damn number above 64% efficiency, it drives me madddd.
@@TheCraftBeerChannel 5 US liquid gallons, right? I think 5 Imperial Gallons would need nearer 600g to increase by 10 gravity points. Got to love the imperial system!
This is a hell of a late reply, but: Get yourself a refractometer for gravity measurements - Brix is a measure of grams of sugar in grams of wort, so is basically a percentage. Get your brix reading, say for example you're 2 brix short of target in a 25 liter batch. You need an extra 2% sugar. 2% of 25L (1L = ~1kg) is .5kg, so you need 500g sugar to compensate. This isn't exact, there are ways to get more exact, but it will get you very close. Another example, if you're 4 brix short and brewing 30 liters, you need another 1.2kg of sugar - either add that weight of sugar (completely fermentable) or of DME (partially fermentable) depending on the final gravity you're after.
What about if your FG is not as expected? I normally hit my numbers but my current beer is a little off, the only thing I did different was a step mash so maybe that's whats done it?
Was it a little high or a little low? You can liquor back no problem (as long as you do it before the end of the boil). For being too low, a simple sugar as Andy says up to 10% of the malt base shouldn't change the body of the beer.
@@TheCraftBeerChannel sorry I meant final gravity, its 1.008 and I was expecting 1.016 I have been checking my brew app and it doesn't seem to change the FG when I add a ramp time in the step mash, so maybe that's the issue?
@@samueldalton88 Ah yeah that's almost definitely going to be the step mash, which will make more of the sugars available. It could also be your yeast too though - what did you use?
I've also had that problem with step-mashing a Hefe. It's traditional but I don't think it works well with modern well-modified malt. Maybe adding some maltodextrin will give your finished beer a little more body, if that's what the problem is.
You'll likely start to extract some tannins from the malt husks, making for a pwdery kind of texture - and you might get a stuck mash as the malt loses its integrity. Any reason you want to go that long?
@@TheCraftBeerChannel I've been tinkering on the idea for a while. Hoped to make brewday "shorter" (somewhat of a contradiction now when I think about it...), by starting the mash, go to bed, and do the boil in the morning. Stuck mash doesn't bother me much since i BIAB, but tannins doesn't sounds too pleasant.
I've done a few brews by mashing, sparging as usual, then bring the wort up to a boil and stop. Cover and come back 5-6 hours later to complete the rest of the process. Didn't seem to affect the beer and allowed me to fit it around a working day. To me, it makes more sense to stop at that point because the enzymes have been denatured and the wort approximately "sterilized".
Nice video gents, can’t help but notice that Heretic Beer, love this stuff I alway top up to free delivery with some 😅 is there a kit or recipe for the Evil Twin, absolutely love that beer 🍺 🍻
That was in there because Malt Miller now import it! I bet there is a recipe on the way as they are close to Jamil, and he is a huge character in the homebrewing world. I'll ask!
Beyond my scope at the moment, but still interesting and informative. Perhaps you could do a comparison/ pros and cons of the various all-grain systems that are available? For those of us that haven't quite made the leap to AG.
So! Any questions for me or Andy?
Commercial brewer here. Another way to hit your desired colour is again to hit your ph. It has an incredible effect on how colour leeches into the wort.
Do you like beer?
@@samimobarak-sadokierski1556 Good to know! So lower means more colour?
@@Jose-hq5gv Ha! A bit.
@@TheCraftBeerChannel The opposite, counter-intuitively I know. If you have too high a ph you often will get more/deeper/darker colour from the grains. But having the right ph will mean you hit your estimated EBC in your recipe.
So if you want a reddish colour in your beer, but your ph is too high. You will see a much darker wort instead of what you imagined based on your recipe.
Don't ask me the science behind this, as I am first learning about this myself. I just wanted to add my observations from work.
Super cool. Great video yet again
Sometimes I'll blow air back threw the spiket to push malts off the screened area. Cheers 🍻
Great info there guys, I'm also very happy to see one of my kveik rings front and centre!
You made it?! Amazing! We mention it in the next episode...
@@TheCraftBeerChannel How about a link to his website?
@@TheCraftBeerChannel yes, they are a lot of fun to make and woodworking and brewing are two great traditional crafts. I look forward to the next episode
Batch sparging is also a big factor. Ensuring that you given your sparge water sufficient contact time with the grains.
Homebrewing tips, this is going to be my series for sure! My question is not about mashing, but here goes. My bottles always gush, or even explode upon opening, the taste of the beer that's left is fine. What can cause this? Am I adding too much sugar for refermentation relative to the batch size? Keep up the good work!
Sounds like you're using too much sugar to prime the bottles with. Use a calculator to ensure you are using the right amount we have one on our site.
you need to ensure your fermentation is complete and there are no fermentables left before priming and use a calculator. I used to always add about 5% less than the recommendation as with time anyway carbonation will develop.
It's all been said! Use the Malt Miller calculator and be precise, under carbing if unsure. I find batch priming a little more reliable too as the drops are a one-size-doesn't-quite-fit-all solution.
So if the mash is too low on the ph. How can I raise it? I know if it's too high I can add a little lactic acid, I just don't know what to do on the reverse
Bicarbonate. Take some wort into a glass and mix. Add it to your Kettle. As for the amount it depends on how many litres you're making. Start with a few grams and test where that brings you before adding more. I've ever only had to adjust preboil after sparging because I over shot my lactic. Be warned that if your wort is hot it will cause a crazy foam to appear so add slowly and be careful
Beyond my scope at the moment, but still interesting and informative. Perhaps you could do a comparison/ pros and cons of the various all-grain systems that are available? For those of us that haven't quite made the leap to AG.
Sure - I think another video with Andy would be a great way to tackle that. He's brewed on them all!
@@TheCraftBeerChannel Awesome! I'll look forward to it
Is there any way of easily knowing how much mash water and sparge water to use ? Currently I just use the brewfarther software but would like to know how to work it out myself.
First, you need to work backward from the volume in the fermenter to the volume going into the kettle: Kettle volume = Fermenter Vol + boil evaporation(~10%) + loss to trub/hops. Once you know that you then get the mash volumes, so Kettle volume = Mash water Volume + Sparge water Volume - grain absorption. The grain will absorb about the same volume of water as its mass. And you'll want a Mash water volume about 3 times the grain mass. So that means Kettle volume = 2 * (Grain mass) + Sparge water volume, which tells us the sparge vol. Write it all out and it will become clear. Hope that helps.
Jon is bang on, but here is a really in-depth look at it for single infusion mashing: help.grainfather.com/hc/en-us/articles/360014617158-Calculation-Mash-and-Sparge-Water-Volume
Well,how big of a factor ph is? I'm using beersmith and measured to the T last time,no mater what I do.i can't get that damn number above 64% efficiency, it drives me madddd.
On a pale beer it can be a huge factor! Check your source water and see. You gotta hit that 5.3ish sweetspot
How do you know how much sugar to add if you miss your gravity? Nice video guys! Keep them coming 🍻
Try this article - or just calculate from the fact that about 500g in a 5 gallon batch will bring your gravity up around 1010.
@@TheCraftBeerChannel 5 US liquid gallons, right? I think 5 Imperial Gallons would need nearer 600g to increase by 10 gravity points. Got to love the imperial system!
This is a hell of a late reply, but:
Get yourself a refractometer for gravity measurements - Brix is a measure of grams of sugar in grams of wort, so is basically a percentage. Get your brix reading, say for example you're 2 brix short of target in a 25 liter batch.
You need an extra 2% sugar. 2% of 25L (1L = ~1kg) is .5kg, so you need 500g sugar to compensate. This isn't exact, there are ways to get more exact, but it will get you very close.
Another example, if you're 4 brix short and brewing 30 liters, you need another 1.2kg of sugar - either add that weight of sugar (completely fermentable) or of DME (partially fermentable) depending on the final gravity you're after.
What about if your FG is not as expected? I normally hit my numbers but my current beer is a little off, the only thing I did different was a step mash so maybe that's whats done it?
Was it a little high or a little low? You can liquor back no problem (as long as you do it before the end of the boil). For being too low, a simple sugar as Andy says up to 10% of the malt base shouldn't change the body of the beer.
@@TheCraftBeerChannel sorry I meant final gravity, its 1.008 and I was expecting 1.016 I have been checking my brew app and it doesn't seem to change the FG when I add a ramp time in the step mash, so maybe that's the issue?
@@samueldalton88 Ah yeah that's almost definitely going to be the step mash, which will make more of the sugars available. It could also be your yeast too though - what did you use?
@@TheCraftBeerChannel I used WLP300, it's for a Hefeweizen that has about a week left conditioning.
I've also had that problem with step-mashing a Hefe. It's traditional but I don't think it works well with modern well-modified malt. Maybe adding some maltodextrin will give your finished beer a little more body, if that's what the problem is.
Are there any negative effects of mashing long... like, really long, over night... 8 to 10 hours?
You'll likely start to extract some tannins from the malt husks, making for a pwdery kind of texture - and you might get a stuck mash as the malt loses its integrity. Any reason you want to go that long?
@@TheCraftBeerChannel I've been tinkering on the idea for a while. Hoped to make brewday "shorter" (somewhat of a contradiction now when I think about it...), by starting the mash, go to bed, and do the boil in the morning. Stuck mash doesn't bother me much since i BIAB, but tannins doesn't sounds too pleasant.
@@irrlicht6997 If you're doing BIAB then you might be best shortening the mash - finer grind, only 30-45 mins mash might get you there
@@TheCraftBeerChannel Thanks, might try that!
I've done a few brews by mashing, sparging as usual, then bring the wort up to a boil and stop. Cover and come back 5-6 hours later to complete the rest of the process. Didn't seem to affect the beer and allowed me to fit it around a working day. To me, it makes more sense to stop at that point because the enzymes have been denatured and the wort approximately "sterilized".
Nice video gents, can’t help but notice that Heretic Beer, love this stuff I alway top up to free delivery with some 😅 is there a kit or recipe for the Evil Twin, absolutely love that beer 🍺 🍻
That was in there because Malt Miller now import it! I bet there is a recipe on the way as they are close to Jamil, and he is a huge character in the homebrewing world. I'll ask!
@@TheCraftBeerChannel I love the BN and Brew👊Strong. I buy a few here and there from the Maltmiller would love to try and brew One 🍻
Really good tips but I would appreciate if you could speak a little slower! Thank you, 😊
#blobbymalts
T-shirt slogan?
@@TheCraftBeerChannel Yes! With the Statement "Mash Up The Jam or Jam Up The Mash?" above it
There is no beer in the mash.
last
Beyond my scope at the moment, but still interesting and informative. Perhaps you could do a comparison/ pros and cons of the various all-grain systems that are available? For those of us that haven't quite made the leap to AG.