@@ternarylogic Well bitterness extraction goes up with the pH, and drops by 0.1 to 0.2 during the boil. Ensuring you are around 5 to 5.2 at the end is ideal. What do you want to know?
I've just tasted my beer with wild yeast I captured from my garden. Just use a mason jar. Fill with 30g of DME dissolved in 300ml of water and leave it outside for 24hrs. You don't need a special receptical. It's now stored in my fridge for another brew
So for First Wort Hopping. You guys got the biggest benefit. It helps massively with boil overs. One thing worth mentioning is that it does increase the bittering contribution from the standard 60 addition just because they are in there longer. About a 10% boost to your IBU's. Though IBUs are a lie anyway sooooo......
@@Pingwinho But aren't. There ar several several different formulas to calculate IBU. Which one you use Biases in a direction whether its Tinseth, Rager, Promash, Noona,etc... They are all calculations to estimate IBU. But true lab measured IBU is often very very diff. Best bet is to pick a formula and stick to it. So in your brewery you know what 40ibu based on your calculations taste like and go from there. But there is close to 100% certainty whatever ypu are calling 40IBU is not truly 40 ibu. Another wrinkle is that IBU is not directly coorelated with perceived bitterness which is dependent on many many factors (alcohol, residual sugars, dextrins, hop oil makeup, temp, carbonation, etc...) IBU calcs are a great thing to help eith consistency and get you in the ball park. But they should never be taken as gospel. And your favorite breweries are not sending them to a lab before printing on a can. They are not regulated like alcohol.
@@brotherjohn2002 Just because (most) homebrewers don't have access to proper laboratory equipment to accurately measure IBUs, doesn't mean that they unit itself is a lie. That's like saying EBC/SRM is a lie, because everyone has different glassware (wall thickness, radius of the glass itself) and won't perceive the same colour. P.S. Not everyone is based in the same country as you. In Poland there is a special administrative unit that deals with incorrect informations on cans. If a brewery gives an IBU level, it has to be backed by a lab test.
@@Pingwinho Believe whatever you want and do whatever makes you happy. Makes no difference to me. My point is the value sill change based on what calculation you use, other factors will input system bias into the value beyond the formula itself. And it isnt directly correlated with perceived bitterness. There is tons and tons of recent sensory research on this very topic due to NE IPA "hop burn" effect in some examples. End of the day its a tool in the tool box. But I think you are nerfing yourself as a brewer if you rely blindly on it rather than sensory. It gets you in the ball park. But isn't the be all end all of bitterness. Which is what I meant when I summed up light heartedly that IBUs are a lie.
Most important part of the boil in my humble opinion is that it is rolling. Not only reaching 100 degrees but that it is really having a disco in there. I've had a boil on my all in one system (Hopcat, dodgy plugs be warned!) that never gave me a rolling boil and this was the only time I've ever had detectable corn aromas/DMS in my beer. Hope this helps somebody!
Hi Anthony, I would expect diacytel to be due to stressed yeast - how you fermented - rather than how you brewed. Advise lifting temp towards the end of the ferment to keep the yeast working with least stress
@@andrewbayley1689 oops my bad, I meant to say DMS. My batch had a lovely corn/vege aroma on top of some Citra hops. I have an inkbird but thanks for the advice 👍
My last brew to be bottled was a rhubarb saison. The first addition of rhubarb was added during the boil. Only problem was, it should have gone into a hop spider as it gets everywhere and the fibres really gum up the tap, resulting in a stuck run-off. I got round it and the finished beer is wonderful, if I do say so myself! Malt Miller are my sole supplier now. Excellent website, after service and fast delivery.
It's a kveik ring. It's used traditionally by Scandinavian farmhouse brewers to innoculate their wort. It gets dunked in subsequent batches and the yeast stay dormant on the surface until they are dunked in the next batch. I'm not sure exactly how you'd get a yeast culture going on one in the first place.
Again it depends on your kit, but if you're intending to do a hopstand/whirlpool then they need to just be bunged in! If it's a lower hopped beer then a bag/spider is fine
@@TheCraftBeerChannel we’ve really struggled with ‘bunged in’ whirlpool/hopstand additions with our BrewZilla and bottling as getting that hop matter back out is really tricky, even with a cold crash. We’ve taken the step back to spider/strainers etc
The method for adding first wort hops is incorrect. First wort hops are not added into the entire batch of extract, before the extract starts to boil, and leaf hops, or crushed black malt are used. The explanation of what takes place during first wort hops comes from the correct way that first wort hops are used, which has very little connection with the homebrew method for first wort hops. It is done this way. When the bottom of the boiler is covered with extract, run off is stopped, and the extract is brought to a boil, then, a small amount of hops, or crushed black malt are added. As the wort/extract in the kettle is boiling, extract from the tun is added into the boiler, slowly, so as not to stop the wort/extract from boiling. Hot break is removed as the boiler fills, and depending on the brewers artistic talents, more hops may be added as the boiler fills. Since, the wort is cleaner, hop flavor and aroma sticks because downstream hop additions don't have to clean the wort. It's an old trick used by brewmasters so that the boiler could be filled higher without boiling over, and less hops are needed. A brewers boiler has a hot break skimmer just in case. Black malt works the same way that hops work, and a brewer used black malt, or allowed some carry over chaff to enter into the boiler because malt and chaff are less expansive than hops. Hot break is over the top in homebrew because mash isn't boiled, and chemical precipitation occurs in the boiler, not upstream, where it is supposed to occur. A problem with the infusion method happens when hot break is removed. The beer lacks the carry over goop necessary for the body and mouthfeel in homebrew. Goop reduces shelf life because when the goop drops out it carries hop character, and flavors with it. I believe that Weyermann produces malt syrup from brewers grade, malt, and it's made from the decoction method, which produces high quality extract. The volume of hot break may be less in extract produced from Weyermann's syrup than the volume that forms in other malt syrup extracts.
Hey homebrewers! Have you got questions about hop additions, boiling techniques or anything else? Hit us up below!
What about boil/post-boil pH and its impact on hopping?
@@ternarylogic Well bitterness extraction goes up with the pH, and drops by 0.1 to 0.2 during the boil. Ensuring you are around 5 to 5.2 at the end is ideal. What do you want to know?
What dosage is suggested for Fenugreek in a Imperial Stout?
Wow! So exciting to see the kveik! I know who made that and he’s amazing! Love you Murray!!!!
This series is exactly in time and inspires me for my next brew in 1,5 weeks! Great stuff!
watching this as I'm boiling right now! THanks for the tips!
T45 are also standardized to a specific Alpha Acid content, whereas T90 are what the annual crop yielded.
I've just tasted my beer with wild yeast I captured from my garden. Just use a mason jar. Fill with 30g of DME dissolved in 300ml of water and leave it outside for 24hrs. You don't need a special receptical. It's now stored in my fridge for another brew
So for First Wort Hopping. You guys got the biggest benefit. It helps massively with boil overs. One thing worth mentioning is that it does increase the bittering contribution from the standard 60 addition just because they are in there longer. About a 10% boost to your IBU's. Though IBUs are a lie anyway sooooo......
How are IBUs a lie? They are a standardised units that can be measured in a lab.
@@Pingwinho But aren't. There ar several several different formulas to calculate IBU. Which one you use Biases in a direction whether its Tinseth, Rager, Promash, Noona,etc... They are all calculations to estimate IBU. But true lab measured IBU is often very very diff. Best bet is to pick a formula and stick to it. So in your brewery you know what 40ibu based on your calculations taste like and go from there. But there is close to 100% certainty whatever ypu are calling 40IBU is not truly 40 ibu. Another wrinkle is that IBU is not directly coorelated with perceived bitterness which is dependent on many many factors (alcohol, residual sugars, dextrins, hop oil makeup, temp, carbonation, etc...) IBU calcs are a great thing to help eith consistency and get you in the ball park. But they should never be taken as gospel. And your favorite breweries are not sending them to a lab before printing on a can. They are not regulated like alcohol.
@@brotherjohn2002 Just because (most) homebrewers don't have access to proper laboratory equipment to accurately measure IBUs, doesn't mean that they unit itself is a lie. That's like saying EBC/SRM is a lie, because everyone has different glassware (wall thickness, radius of the glass itself) and won't perceive the same colour.
P.S. Not everyone is based in the same country as you. In Poland there is a special administrative unit that deals with incorrect informations on cans. If a brewery gives an IBU level, it has to be backed by a lab test.
@@Pingwinho Believe whatever you want and do whatever makes you happy. Makes no difference to me. My point is the value sill change based on what calculation you use, other factors will input system bias into the value beyond the formula itself. And it isnt directly correlated with perceived bitterness. There is tons and tons of recent sensory research on this very topic due to NE IPA "hop burn" effect in some examples. End of the day its a tool in the tool box. But I think you are nerfing yourself as a brewer if you rely blindly on it rather than sensory. It gets you in the ball park. But isn't the be all end all of bitterness. Which is what I meant when I summed up light heartedly that IBUs are a lie.
On your page
Most important part of the boil in my humble opinion is that it is rolling. Not only reaching 100 degrees but that it is really having a disco in there. I've had a boil on my all in one system (Hopcat, dodgy plugs be warned!) that never gave me a rolling boil and this was the only time I've ever had detectable corn aromas/DMS in my beer. Hope this helps somebody!
Hi Anthony, I would expect diacytel to be due to stressed yeast - how you fermented - rather than how you brewed. Advise lifting temp towards the end of the ferment to keep the yeast working with least stress
@@andrewbayley1689 oops my bad, I meant to say DMS. My batch had a lovely corn/vege aroma on top of some Citra hops. I have an inkbird but thanks for the advice 👍
All good stuff, as usual. Cheers lads!
My last brew to be bottled was a rhubarb saison. The first addition of rhubarb was added during the boil. Only problem was, it should have gone into a hop spider as it gets everywhere and the fibres really gum up the tap, resulting in a stuck run-off. I got round it and the finished beer is wonderful, if I do say so myself! Malt Miller are my sole supplier now. Excellent website, after service and fast delivery.
How do lupomax compare?
You waved the wooden thing about... what does it do please? What is it, and where would I get one from please?
It's a kveik ring. It's used traditionally by Scandinavian farmhouse brewers to innoculate their wort. It gets dunked in subsequent batches and the yeast stay dormant on the surface until they are dunked in the next batch. I'm not sure exactly how you'd get a yeast culture going on one in the first place.
Hop bag or just bung them in?
Again it depends on your kit, but if you're intending to do a hopstand/whirlpool then they need to just be bunged in! If it's a lower hopped beer then a bag/spider is fine
@@TheCraftBeerChannel we’ve really struggled with ‘bunged in’ whirlpool/hopstand additions with our BrewZilla and bottling as getting that hop matter back out is really tricky, even with a cold crash. We’ve taken the step back to spider/strainers etc
@@TheCraftBeerChannel why can’t you do a hopstand in a hopspider?
BBC 😏
Not as informative as I hopped. Questions I have are: How long to boil? Does it need to be a rolling boil? When to add hops.
We couldn't put that in such a short general video as it depends entirely on the style of beer! Happy to help here with specific questions though.
The method for adding first wort hops is incorrect. First wort hops are not added into the entire batch of extract, before the extract starts to boil, and leaf hops, or crushed black malt are used. The explanation of what takes place during first wort hops comes from the correct way that first wort hops are used, which has very little connection with the homebrew method for first wort hops.
It is done this way. When the bottom of the boiler is covered with extract, run off is stopped, and the extract is brought to a boil, then, a small amount of hops, or crushed black malt are added. As the wort/extract in the kettle is boiling, extract from the tun is added into the boiler, slowly, so as not to stop the wort/extract from boiling. Hot break is removed as the boiler fills, and depending on the brewers artistic talents, more hops may be added as the boiler fills. Since, the wort is cleaner, hop flavor and aroma sticks because downstream hop additions don't have to clean the wort. It's an old trick used by brewmasters so that the boiler could be filled higher without boiling over, and less hops are needed. A brewers boiler has a hot break skimmer just in case. Black malt works the same way that hops work, and a brewer used black malt, or allowed some carry over chaff to enter into the boiler because malt and chaff are less expansive than hops.
Hot break is over the top in homebrew because mash isn't boiled, and chemical precipitation occurs in the boiler, not upstream, where it is supposed to occur. A problem with the infusion method happens when hot break is removed. The beer lacks the carry over goop necessary for the body and mouthfeel in homebrew. Goop reduces shelf life because when the goop drops out it carries hop character, and flavors with it.
I believe that Weyermann produces malt syrup from brewers grade, malt, and it's made from the decoction method, which produces high quality extract. The volume of hot break may be less in extract produced from Weyermann's syrup than the volume that forms in other malt syrup extracts.