Five tips for fermentation (from a pro!) | The Craft Beer Channel
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- Опубликовано: 10 июл 2024
- In the final episode of our homebrew tips with Andy Parker and The Malt Miller we dig into the important topic of fermentation - how to get good, clean ferments and importantly for most homebrewers how to dry hop effectively!
Check out our videos with CAMRA: • 1. A quick introductio...
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RUclips needs more Andy Parker. 👍
Amen to that
I’m planning to use the spare bedroom in my home for fermenting beer. I’ve been brewing for many years but kids in the house they take up my brewing space. I’ve fermented beer in walk-in-wardrobes and my ensuite...all good beer but it’s in the way. Now the kids are moving out soon....my wife has her craft room....I will have a beer cave.
Since I started fermenting in a Inkbird controlled fridge, It has improved my home brew incredibly, even when doing beer kits. so that would be my suggestion for the spare room get a fridge and controller.
@@davidhatton729 I second that. Temperature control is the key to better fermentation.
Loved this series. So much good information.
This is a great series! Am really enjoying not only the video content but also the comments. A wealth of information.
Hop creep is hop variety dependent. Cascade being notorious for it due to it's unusually elevated dextrin hydrolyzing enzyme content. Most other hops have lower content and thus present less of an issue. This is also only an issue in beers with higher mash temperatures or insufficient mash length that result in the presence of these otherwise unfermentables in the beer. I just did a 15g/L dry hop on a beer mashed for 1 hr at 69°C and it had no issues with hop creep using: Bru-1, Sabro, and Idaho 7.
Mash low and long for a dry beer to avoid dextrins and there's no hop creep issue. You can back sweeten with isomaltulose or lactose if desired.
Or stay away form Amarillo and Cascade in the dry hop. Simcoe, Centenial, and Citra, being significantly lower enzyme content and thus better dry hop choices for beer with an intended residual sweetness.
If you're planning on using Amarillo or Cascade for the dry hop, you might as well mash for a dry beer anyway and minimize your hop creep diacetyl risk.
A most useful chemistry lesson, cheers
Loved this series. So much good information. 👍🍻
Great video. Thanks guys!
Chlorophenol is only possible when there's chlorine in the beer. Rarely from your water as chlorine is driven off in a 15 minute boil which almost all beers undertake. It'll also evaporate at lower temperatures over a longer period of time, for example in the mash.
Chloramines don't evaporate like this, but they're only put in UK water supplies in rural areas where contamination is more likely, according to my conversations with Severn Trent.
The other major vector for Chlorine contamination is from your choice of sanitizer. This is why I use StarSan, as it's chlorine free and no-rinse. Stay away from bleach and other chlorine based sanitizers in the UK and you shouldn't be at significant risk of any band-aid like chlorophenol off flavours in your beer.
Around 20% of Americans city water has Chloramines in it though, so they're different.
Cool, great video
I'm definitely naive about brewing and that's why I'm here.
Go pressure fermentation if controlled environment isn’t achievable for a healthy fermentation.
I need to ask as I've looked in the past, where did you get your plastic fermenter? It looks so easy to use with the screw top, plus you can see fermentation taking place.
You won't like the answer - I got it from a London homebrew store that closed down about 5 years ago... sorry!
@@TheCraftBeerChannel am I allowed to thumb down your comment? Haha. Thanks for getting back to me none the less!
Check out the Big Mouth Bubbler. I've used them and love them.
www.northernbrewer.com/products/siphonless-big-mouth-bubbler-ported-6-5-gallon
I lost control of my temperature about 15-16 hours into my fermentation process. I used SafAle WB-06 dry yeast and put my tub into a dark space in my home. The thermometer at home wasn't turned on and it got down to 61 degrees F for a couple of hours. I was using Hanks Hefeweizen recipe (Northern Brewer) so is my batch trash now?
What about fruit additions to the fermentation? I am going to make a blackberry porter in the next week or two and I am wondering how long to leave the berries in the fermenter, should the be treated the same as a dry hop addition and leave them in for 3 days or a bit longer? sanitization wise, they are currently sitting in the freezer and will be blended up before adding it, it's all losely influenced on the clawhammer Blackberry stout!
Hey! So our next full homebrew episode will be covering this but I'd advise adding the fruit just after peak ferment and leave it in there for 7-10 days to ensure all the sugar is eaten.
@@TheCraftBeerChannel excellent, thanks for that, I'll look forward to that episode and best of luck with the brew
When Andy referred to a chlorophenol taste from stressed yeast did he specifically mean to the elastoplast / medicinal taste ? I ask as I have had this problem this summer on a couple of batches and I know it's not due to chloramines or chlorine as I use well water. Thankyou
It could well be. Did you notice a slow start? Either way, try making a starter or using yeast nutrient to speed it up and see if that helps.
Ok...so looking at the table a bit closer this time. And couldn't help but notice Jamil's beer sitting there. Is this some sort of easter egg of something to come? Possibly just a nod to a very important figure in the homebrew community? Or does he have some sort of tie to the Malt Miller. Either way a bit jealous. Cant get Heretic where I am and would love to try Evil 3. Cheers and thanks for the videos.
Malt Miller bring it to the UK, and it's delicious. So we popped it on the table.
@@TheCraftBeerChannel Haha thanks for the reply good sirs.
Question: Fermentation under pressure! I have a fermzilla, which is awesome for that, but haven't got into it yet. Does it increase dry-hop yield and affect the fermentation positively in general? Setting a spunding valve to maybe 1 bar would save a lot of CO2 for kegging, but could there be other benefits or draw-backs? I suspect the yeast wouldn't care about 1 bar, as that's, to my knowledge, quite common at the bottom of big fermenters at large-scale breweries with tall fermenters
For questions like this there is only one place to head, the best homebrew blog on the internet - Brulosophy. Check this article out: brulosophy.com/2015/04/27/under-pressure-the-impact-of-higher-psi-fermentations-exbeeriment-results-2/
There are three types of fermentation that takes place, primary, secondary, and during conditioning. Primary involves simple sugar, glucose, released during liquefaction. Secondary and conditioning, involves complex sugar, formed during conversion. In which of the three vessels do you believe fermenting under pressure takes place? Now, remember, in home brewing only primary fermentation is used, and the beer is artificially carbonated with a simple type of sugar, sucrose/dextrose, or injected with CO2, and usually drank within a couple of weeks, and conversion and secondary fermentation are skipped in home brewing.
Certain things that home brewers are told to do to produce home made beer, which most of the time, are a waste of time, and money, only work when beer is made with the step mash method, or when the triple decoction and the Hochkurz brewing methods are used, where mash is boiled a few times, and main mash temperatures are kept low to preserve enzymes, and where very thick mash is used, except for Pils.
You can let the beer have its main fermentation without pressure for a week. You then ad dry hop and some sugar. Close and set your spunding valve. It will fast get all oxygen out you get in while dryhoping. Or use it. If you have pressure before dryhopping you might get the cola+mentos effect when adding hop. When the beer has been carbonized and all fermentable sugar is gone, coldcrash it. Then transfer or bottle.
I admit I didn't understand Andy's dry hop schedule: does he do the bulk dry hop at room temp or just the small first dry hop?
Both, as far as I understand. But the first dry hop is very small.
Indeed! Both are at room temp, then after a diac rest he crashes it.
Great Video! I have a question on Carbonization: How do you do carbonization, to get a homogenous result?
I am having some Problems with some bottles having a lot too much pressure and flushing over at the opening and some bottles not having any pressure at all..
Here is my procedure: In Case of e.g. 5g/L carbonization, I mix 5g of sugar into every 15mL of boiling sterile water and solve it into it. I then put 5mL of this solution into each 0,33L bottle and then fill the beer onto it, once the sugar solution+bottle is cold
Would be very helpful if you have a tip for me, this is my biggest brewing problem!! Best regards from Germany
Is it better to Mix the sugar into the fermenter before filling the beer into the bottles?
Hi there yes you answered your own question! It is probably happening due to a (small but important) variation in yeast cells leftover in each bottle and sugar solution going in. So transferring to a new container and priming the whole batch
@@TheCraftBeerChannel When I started cold crashing before bottling, I found I needed about 25% more priming sugar for the same level of carbonation. Cold crashing is worth it, though, for clearer beer. Also, if your batch has been sitting a while in the refrigerator, by definition, it will be more dense at the bottom. Just enough to change carbonation strength a little bit among the 40+ bottles in a 5 gallon batch. I try and siphon out from the middle of the batch, which takes more work since you have to keep moving the siphon as the beer level goes down.
I can't see the link to the CAMRA vids?
Apologies! Here it is: ruclips.net/video/Oz1fQOI2Wcc/видео.html
I've had luck just leaving the last round of dry hops in the keg, in a spider, then waiting a couple of days to cold crash and carbonate at the same time. Two months finish time, with no noticeable vegital flavors.
If it works, keep at it! If you keep the keg cold then it's unlikely you will get any vegetal flavours, but you won't be extracting much else after 2 days either.
I thought about having a go at home brewing ,these videos have put me right off looks so complicated and expensive to set up, think ill stick to micro pubs!
Don't believe me its so easy & rewarding
Maim tip keep everything clean number 1 to do
Like any hobby, you can keep it simple, or you can go gonzo with it. It’s not difficult to make a drinkable homebrew, especially brown ales, pale ales, and porters. Difficulty increases with New England IPAs and other styles.
You can start with an extract kit (the good ones), a big pot, a plastic bucket and a siphon. You can get good beers, but probably not exacly as microbrewers make with pro equipment. But by and by you will improve. You will get more gear and improved methods. This rabbit hole is endlessly deep.
I started 7 years ago with easy equipment in my kitchen. Two years later I became process technician at a large brewery and now I am head brewer. Ok, alot of science and math help. This hobby can be as complicated as you wish, but can be kept simple
Who am I kidding. If you ever start, it will spiral out of control with stainless steel, electronics, fermentation fridge, keg systems. Beware! When the brew devil gets your soul you are doomed!
I'm not sure where this question belongs, but fermentation migh be it. Anyway, question about spunding, when brewing "real ale" style of beer, let's say a best bitter. All I can find written about it says "when a few points remains to FG", and thats it, never any details. If I want to let the fermentation CO2 carbonate my best bitter, what do I do? If I have an expected FG of 1.010, when do I let the spunding valve work, what pressure am I targeting and for how long should it sit to reach proper carbonation (lets say 1.4 volumes)?
Hey there! So unfortunately the answer is... it depends. Generally around 2-4 points will be enough gravity to hit a real ale level of carbonation but it depends on the temp of the beer, yeast used, how sealed the fermenter is etc - and of course your spunding valve and setting. I'd aim for four points as it's easier to measure, then if the batch is overcarbed take it down a notch next time.
@@TheCraftBeerChannel Thank you! Experimenting it will be 😄👍
Bag the dry hops, or just toss them on? Pros and cons?
Just toss them in, and rouse them if you can. You'll increase the utilisation. It's worth the extra bit of loss of volume.
From another pro. Yes, it is what happens in the cellar that makes "sugar water" to beer.
1. Sooner or later you will need to get temperature control. Just accept it. Buy an old fridge and an external thermostat. Especially if you are into lagers.
2. Get equipment easy to clean and can take boiling water.
3. Get a process where you keep oxygen out after pitching yeast. Especially if you are a hop addict.
4. As said, pitching the right amount of yeast. 11g dry yeast is good enough for ale in moderate gravity 25 l. For heavy gravity or lager, double up.
5. Make sure you get the diacetyl rest.
My set up.
I ferment in a stainless steel kegs 30 l. 25-27 l in a batch. A floating tube in the keg. First open fermentation in right temperature. Add dryhop and 200g sugar. Close and spunding valve. After dryhoping and second fermentation finished, cold crash. Then transfer to another keg or botteling with counterpressure filler. Cap on foam. I normally get oxygen levels at 0,1 ppm.
Or to put it another way, you can make the odd cock up on brewday, as we all have, but a good fermentation with copious happy yeast and good temperature control can save your ass. My best move by far was rigging up a fermentation fridge.
Yeast nutrient isn't required when wort is chemically balanced, and stabile, which soaking malt in hot water for an hour doesn't accomplish. The fermentation cycle is inconsistent in home brewing, due to the brewing method, and off flavors develop during fermentation and conditioning, resulting in beer with very limited shelf life. The brewing method produces, mainly, simple sugar, glucose, which is highly fermentable, and responsible for primary fermentation, and depending on the temperature, more, or less sweet tasting, nonfermenting types of sugar. Since, home brew extract contains mostly, glucose, and nonfermenting types of sugar, secondary fermentation doesn't occur, which has to occur to produce ale and lager. The conversion rest is responsible for secondary fermentation, but the conversion rest is skipped in home brewing because it lengthens the brewing cycle, an extra fermenter is needed, and the high temperatures that are used for making home made beer denatures the enzyme responsible for conversion, Beta. During conversion (60-63), Beta turns glucose into maltose and maltotriose. Maltose and maltotriose produce ale and lager. Glucose laden extract produces moonshiners beer. Beta is purposely denatured in grain distillation, and in home brewing. High modified, home brew, malt may be tied in with skipping the conversion rest because the malt is less rich in enzyme content than under modified, malt, and depending on the level of malt modification, enzymes need to be added. Dextrinization and gelatinization steps are also skipped in home brewing, and in grain distillation.
Yeast works differently on simple sugar than it works on complex types of sugar. An enzyme in yeast converts maltose back into glucose during secondary fermentation. When conversion occurs, beer naturally carbonates during conditioning, due to maltotriose. Beer doesn't need priming sugar, or CO2 injection for carbonation. Artificial carbonation produces soda pop fizz.
When liquefaction, saccharification, and conversion occurs, but dextrinization and gelatinization steps are skipped, the final product will thin and dry out during conditioning.
I'd even go as far as to say that packaging is the most important part, that's where you can truly ruin a great beer.
100% especially in can and bottle. We will cover that eventually but still learning the best methods.
Go pressure fermentation if controlled environment isn’t achievable for a healthy fermentation.
Haha not sure that's much more achievable but a good point.
@@TheCraftBeerChannel it is with a fermzilla.😉👍🏻
Great Video! I have a question on Carbonization: How do you do carbonization, to get a homogenous result?
I am having some Problems with some bottles having a lot too much pressure and flushing over at the opening and some bottles not having any pressure at all..
Here is my procedure: In Case of e.g. 5g/L carbonization, I mix 5g of sugar into every 15mL of boiling sterile water and solve it into it. I then put 5mL of this solution into each 0,33L bottle and then fill the beer onto it, once the sugar solution+bottle is cold
Would be very helpful if you have a tip for me, this is my biggest brewing problem!! Best regards from Germany
Could be a few issues but sounds like not enough viable yeast is reaching the bottle, and you're over-priming or bottling to early. First, how long do you let the beer sit at terminal gravity, and second do you cold crash your beer before you bottle?