This is a good size, and it has all of the "best bang for your buck" features, but I would make one suggestion. The air inlet should also be round so the owner can duct cold air from the outside as an option, instead of only being able to pull the warmed air from the room...while causing cold air to be sucked through every crack in the rooms doors and windows, from the strong draft.
I keep seeing two distinct layouts for the small rocket stoves. This "U" style with the long horizontal from the fuel feed pipe to the chimney, and the "K" ones where the fuel feed is angled, and much closer to the elbow. Can anyone tell me what's the pros and cons of both styles? I'd assume the "K" must be easier to get running initially because the heat will naturally want to go straight up the chimney and drag fresh air in the bottom, and I also assume that the "U" will keep more heat from disappearing up the chimney by forcing the flames to contact the tube wall longer. Is that right? If so, is there anything else between them? I'm planning to make one with my nephew at some point as a practice welding project for him, and I'm just wondering if there's any benefits of going for one design over the other.
Do you sell the plans for this or sell it as a kit?? I'm looking at buying a kit or plans so I can have a backup heat source and eventually only use the furnace when necessary
My house is a bit bigger than your measurements and currently has a log burning wet system central heating boiler. Its old and eats the wood at a greater rate than I can cope with. The real problem we have is keeping it going long enough over the cold nights, and up on my mountain in the Balkan mountains we get real cold weather, as well as during the day, but the nights especially. I know a hopper with wood pellets maybe a solution, which defeats somewhat a survival system we feel we need, and regulating the flow somehow. My question though is this, about utilising the wet radiators around the house. Could a water tank be welded around this design of yours because yours looks so simple to construct compared with all others I have seen, or how do you keep yours topped up over night.
If you have watched all 3 of my videos, please keep in mind that my kit is for survival / back up purposes, not intended to be used as a primary source of home heat or on a day to day basis. My kit serves as a basis from which each individual builder can modify to their own needs and requirements. Fuel needs to be added on a regular basis...every 30 minutes or so. So in that sense, you would need to address a pellet hopper or some such mechanism for extended time period burns. My unit is not designed with day to day heating of a home in mind...it is for a survival situation as a source of heat for a small enclosed area, to serve as a stove top to cook on and a heat source by which water can be boiled. Thank you for your comments and question.
I have one in my garage which is approx. 25’ x 25’ x 8’ or 5,000 cubic feet.…it does a great job of heating an area that size. A few winters ago I fired it up on a day that started out at 26 degrees below zero F. It took a few hours to raise the temp to 60 degrees above....an 86 degree swing...and, my garage is not airtight by any stretch.
I been using and building rocket stoves for years.one word of advice.A Straight up and down wood feeder tube works better then a slanted one.and I am going to use a bigger diameter tube for the wood feeder next time instead of a 5 inch one,maybe try at least 8 to ten inches.
Thanks for the tip on the feeder tube. If you go to a larger than 5" square tube, will all of the rest of your tubing be that same (larger) size as well? Appreciate your comment. Let me know how it works out.
what about making a square or rectangular firebox instead of a round one? That way the botton could rest on a masonry frame. You could bricks around it and turn it into a masonry heater without having to worry about leakage over time.
@@8Weeksand2DaysSurvival Versus me chasing down a person to do all that. You ship out the parts for a round one. How about figuring one for a say 100-200 square foot space with a wider base and a box instead of round one. Leaving a ledge that would support 2 wide tier of bricks. You could ship the panels with one having a clean out port on the side including other parts. What would it cost or how would I contact you to figure this out? I could have it fabricated locally.
@@michaelbagley9116 I only make one size and style...that's the one you see on my 3 RUclips videos. It works and is very efficient. I designed it for a survival scenario as I explain in Part 3.
How car back should the feeder be? I see a lot of these that smoke when first burned - on the internet. Negative pressure. How do you get the chimney to draw better?
I'm not a physicist, but I've seen guys heat up the flute before starting to help differ the temperature/pressure and cause a draw through the system to help with back flow.
I know im randomly asking but does any of you know a way to get back into an Instagram account..? I was dumb forgot my account password. I appreciate any assistance you can give me
@Kyrie Castiel I really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and im in the hacking process atm. I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
My kit offers the core components needed from which each builder / assembler tends to modify or add-on according to their specific requirements, skill set and objectives. I leave Insulation, pellet hopper, water heating mechanism, etc. to the requirements of individual needs and objectives. Secondary air will have somewhat to do with where the heater is located and the in and out ventilation of that space. Thanks for your questions.
I’m pretty sure this ace welder (seriously) wouldn’t have wasted his time n skills on any ol design, too precise a work. As far as the eye protection goes, this guy has welded miles of bead and doesn’t need to see it. I know, I have a hazardous skilled talent acquired after decades of high production industrial non- stop ( slave driving bastards) back breaking work very few can hack it much less excel at a skill with speed AND quality and yes I can do my job also by feel alone, when ya got it, ya got it.
insulating the riser is a fundamental element of running the heater. If the combustion tank gets as hot as the riser, then the convection aspect of the tank won't work right. I get that you're selling kits, and it would be tough to include insulation (a roll of ceramic fiber 1" thick, and a 32oz bottle of sodium silicate as adhesive), but the customer should at least be advised on it, IMHO.
Many thanks for sharing your insight and reasoning. I, as well as those interested, certainly appreciate thoughtful comments. Have you experimented or built heaters or stoves? If so, I'd appreciate seeing your work and or experiments. Thanks, and all the best.
Please keep in mind that my kit is for survival / back up purposes, not intended to be used as a primary source of home heat or on a day to day basis. If your intention is to build a rocket heater of your own as an insert, I'd make sure I thoroughly tested it before I put one in my living room. This technology is capable of generating incredible temperatures if allowed or not monitored. Safety issues need to be addressed and thought through!!
I'd think about getting a new dog...just kidding. I have a sister in Prattville and she just told me the same thing...70% humidity is a real bear at any temperature.
If you want it to last a seriously long time then build your riser out of refractory cement- steel or even stainless will burn if you run it hot for any length of time --- pity I cannot put pix here --- Hope your eyes are OK -- Like sex, not a game I would play without protection! :)
This is a good size, and it has all of the "best bang for your buck" features, but I would make one suggestion. The air inlet should also be round so the owner can duct cold air from the outside as an option, instead of only being able to pull the warmed air from the room...while causing cold air to be sucked through every crack in the rooms doors and windows, from the strong draft.
Many thanks for your suggestion.
What’s the distance between the top cover and the top of the riser tube please and thank you
Hi... Do you have the lengths for the metal tubing? I see you give the tube sizing but not the lengths... Thank you
Have you experimented with the length of the round chimney cover vs the length of the chimney?
What was the clearance between the top of the riser tube and top plate?
I keep seeing two distinct layouts for the small rocket stoves. This "U" style with the long horizontal from the fuel feed pipe to the chimney, and the "K" ones where the fuel feed is angled, and much closer to the elbow.
Can anyone tell me what's the pros and cons of both styles?
I'd assume the "K" must be easier to get running initially because the heat will naturally want to go straight up the chimney and drag fresh air in the bottom, and I also assume that the "U" will keep more heat from disappearing up the chimney by forcing the flames to contact the tube wall longer. Is that right? If so, is there anything else between them?
I'm planning to make one with my nephew at some point as a practice welding project for him, and I'm just wondering if there's any benefits of going for one design over the other.
Do you sell the plans for this or sell it as a kit?? I'm looking at buying a kit or plans so I can have a backup heat source and eventually only use the furnace when necessary
whats the function of the tube around the upright? can it be skeletonized to allow heat out into an open space?
The housing around the upright captures the burnt gases/smoke and forces them out the exhaust chimney pipe. It needs to be one solid piece of steel.
Oh I get it now thank you very much for the reply. And thanks for the video it is most helpful to build my own for my garage.
Definitely a good project to use my everlast welder. Great job
Have a good time with your project. Thanks for the kind words.
My house is a bit bigger than your measurements and currently has a log burning wet system central heating boiler. Its old and eats the wood at a greater rate than I can cope with. The real problem we have is keeping it going long enough over the cold nights, and up on my mountain in the Balkan mountains we get real cold weather, as well as during the day, but the nights especially. I know a hopper with wood pellets maybe a solution, which defeats somewhat a survival system we feel we need, and regulating the flow somehow. My question though is this, about utilising the wet radiators around the house. Could a water tank be welded around this design of yours because yours looks so simple to construct compared with all others I have seen, or how do you keep yours topped up over night.
If you have watched all 3 of my videos, please keep in mind that my kit is for survival / back up purposes, not intended to be used as a primary source of home heat or on a day to day basis. My kit serves as a basis from which each individual builder can modify to their own needs and requirements. Fuel needs to be added on a regular basis...every 30 minutes or so. So in that sense, you would need to address a pellet hopper or some such mechanism for extended time period burns. My unit is not designed with day to day heating of a home in mind...it is for a survival situation as a source of heat for a small enclosed area, to serve as a stove top to cook on and a heat source by which water can be boiled. Thank you for your comments and question.
How big of an area or shop can this size heat?
I have one in my garage which is approx. 25’ x 25’ x 8’ or 5,000 cubic feet.…it does a great job of heating an area that size. A few winters ago I fired it up on a day that started out at 26 degrees below zero F. It took a few hours to raise the temp to 60 degrees above....an 86 degree swing...and, my garage is not airtight by any stretch.
@@8Weeksand2DaysSurvival Awesome, thanks!
I been using and building rocket stoves for years.one word of advice.A Straight up and down wood feeder tube works better then a slanted one.and I am going to use a bigger diameter tube for the wood feeder next time instead of a 5 inch one,maybe try at least 8 to ten inches.
Thanks for the tip on the feeder tube. If you go to a larger than 5" square tube, will all of the rest of your tubing be that same (larger) size as well? Appreciate your comment. Let me know how it works out.
Good point.
Ed Va but don't you have a down draft in the feeding tube?
Nice build. Thank you for sharing.
so beautiful and no music 👍👍
Many thanks for the kind words....Yeah, no music!
what about making a square or rectangular firebox instead of a round one? That way the botton could rest on a masonry frame. You could bricks around it and turn it into a masonry heater without having to worry about leakage over time.
Your plan sounds viable to me. If you fabricate one to the concept you outline, let us know your results. Thanks.
@@8Weeksand2DaysSurvival Versus me chasing down a person to do all that. You ship out the parts for a round one. How about figuring one for a say 100-200 square foot space with a wider base and a box instead of round one. Leaving a ledge that would support 2 wide tier of bricks. You could ship the panels with one having a clean out port on the side including other parts. What would it cost or how would I contact you to figure this out? I could have it fabricated locally.
@@michaelbagley9116 I only make one size and style...that's the one you see on my 3 RUclips videos. It works and is very efficient. I designed it for a survival scenario as I explain in Part 3.
How car back should the feeder be?
I see a lot of these that smoke when first burned - on the internet. Negative pressure. How do you get the chimney to draw better?
I'm not a physicist, but I've seen guys heat up the flute before starting to help differ the temperature/pressure and cause a draw through the system to help with back flow.
This great! if, you own all that equip and a nice shop !!
What kind of plasma cutter are you using, I like the video, thanks for taking the time to share.
Thermal Dynamics.
Nice. I look forward to making something like this with my everlast welder.
Roger that. Forward pictures when you do.
I know im randomly asking but does any of you know a way to get back into an Instagram account..?
I was dumb forgot my account password. I appreciate any assistance you can give me
@Ahmed Miles Instablaster ;)
@Kyrie Castiel I really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and im in the hacking process atm.
I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Kyrie Castiel it worked and I now got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thank you so much you saved my account !
no isolation around the riser? no secunary air? not necessary?
My kit offers the core components needed from which each builder / assembler tends to modify or add-on according to their specific requirements, skill set and objectives. I leave Insulation, pellet hopper, water heating mechanism, etc. to the requirements of individual needs and objectives. Secondary air will have somewhat to do with where the heater is located and the in and out ventilation of that space. Thanks for your questions.
But you do need the riser to be insulated.
Great video.. Very nice work!
Many thanks for the kind words.
I thought one needed to insulate the burn chamber in a rocket stove, no?
I offer a kit.....leave it up to the individual based upon their objectives and skills.
I’m pretty sure this ace welder (seriously) wouldn’t have wasted his time n skills on any ol design, too precise a work. As far as the eye protection goes, this guy has welded miles of bead and doesn’t need to see it. I know, I have a hazardous skilled talent acquired after decades of high production industrial non- stop ( slave driving bastards) back breaking work very few can hack it much less excel at a skill with speed AND quality and yes I can do my job also by feel alone, when ya got it, ya got it.
Roger that.
Did you insulate the riser?
I did not. That option is available to anyone who purchased a kit, depending on their skills and objectives.
insulating the riser is a fundamental element of running the heater. If the combustion tank gets as hot as the riser, then the convection aspect of the tank won't work right. I get that you're selling kits, and it would be tough to include insulation (a roll of ceramic fiber 1" thick, and a 32oz bottle of sodium silicate as adhesive), but the customer should at least be advised on it, IMHO.
Many thanks for sharing your insight and reasoning. I, as well as those interested, certainly appreciate thoughtful comments. Have you experimented or built heaters or stoves? If so, I'd appreciate seeing your work and or experiments. Thanks, and all the best.
I want one , but I want a bigger feed tube with adjustable legs to put into fireplace as a insert
Please keep in mind that my kit is for survival / back up purposes, not intended to be used as a primary source of home heat or on a day to day basis. If your intention is to build a rocket heater of your own as an insert, I'd make sure I thoroughly tested it before I put one in my living room. This technology is capable of generating incredible temperatures if allowed or not monitored. Safety issues need to be addressed and thought through!!
Nice work. Would like to see it in action
Thanks for the kind words. You can see my rocket heater in action in part 3 at ruclips.net/video/DvudzYnLptQ/видео.html
hermoso trabajo digame la parte de arriba he visto que esta cerrado por donde sale el humo desde ya muchas gracias .
Gracias por las palabras amables. No entiendo muy bien tu pregunta. ¿Estás preguntando por la tapa de la carcasa alta?
Not interested anymore. Adios.
El humo sale por la salida de chimenea, esta en la parte inferior ( la salida cilíndrica)
is there a catalog of the stoves ya'll sell?
We offer a Rocked Stove and a Rocket Heater....both can be found at 8weeksand2days.com/
Where is part 3?
Will be on line early September.
Hello, something is wrong with the design of your stove. secondary air must flow into the cylinder.
Link in description is bad… gets rerouted
Nice welds!
Thanks...I'll pass it along.
He had his eyes closed on that one part but tell you what that's some good welding find job
the freight would be crazy to ship to Alabama! it was 17 degrees this morning and 70% humidity! My Red wolf was howling to come inside!
I'd think about getting a new dog...just kidding. I have a sister in Prattville and she just told me the same thing...70% humidity is a real bear at any temperature.
great job! where could i buy one, asap,
Thanks. Please send your inquiry to mtmarket@mcn.net
Do you sell them?
Yes. Email mtmarket@mcn.net for details or call 406-585-9324. Thank you.
You have the world"s best welding helmet... I can tell you that.
Also noticed the "eweld" antispatter bottle on the table. Good stuff
PPE ?
Awesome shop
Where is top
He's got his safety squints on.
podría partir por protección personal , mínimo guantes y chaqueta
Estoy de acuerdo I agree.
8Weeksand2Days Survival pero su trabajo está bueno
Gracias.
¡Convenido!
Good program thanks
I appreciate your comment.
이. 난로가 최고다
I tried pricing out steel the other day.. Man.. too expensive for my blood. I'll stick to making things out of junk.
Good quality US made steel is expensive.
Love it
Appreciate the kind words.
If you want it to last a seriously long time then build your riser out of refractory cement- steel or even stainless will burn if you run it hot for any length of time --- pity I cannot put pix here --- Hope your eyes are OK -- Like sex, not a game I would play without protection! :)
Good input....appreciate your comments.
bet he got some arc eye. Mr cool = Mr blind
Hey stupid did he lo0ok as if he had ark eye in his picture @ the end,he lo0ked to me like he new what he was doing. awesome welding i just witnessed.
1:02, ignorance is bliss
Many thanks for the kind words.
I already know how to weld. 👎🏻👎🏻
Низкое КПД 25%.
Этот блок предназначен для чрезвычайных ситуаций. Выработка тепла является основным фактором. Спасибо за ваш вклад.