Yeah really cool mate. I played around with this stuff on my other channel about 8 years back and made all sorts of version with similar rhs. I got fantastic results in the end. Even made a keg pizza oven. I sat ontop of the 6 inch high out put and then went around the keg and then out a 5 inch flew. The keg was wrapped in a concrete chicken wire mix with a 1 inch space for the heat to pass through. I heated up very quick and made amazing pizza with a door made at the keg outlet end and a peephile I plugged with a timber stoppee big enough to work as a handle to. When you turned it the stopper came out like a plug to look through at your pizza 😋
I’ve been looking for designs that would be light since I need to put it in an upstairs room, this looks like one of the best and easiest to go with; my only alterations would be for space and an angled feed. Thanks for all your videos!
Thank you. Rocket stoves are a bit like Thomas Edison's experimentation with light bulb filament materials. I've seen a thousand different variations over at least 15 years starting with Larry Winiarsky's versions. And I've done a lot of my own experiments. It's always interesting to see all the different approaches people take. And the different applications or specific uses for capturing heat.
I agree, and also the holes are poor for air mixing. If you really wanted sec. air you need a bit of length to the nozzles - normally I would say 10xDiameter, but less might suffice.
Checkout wiseway pellet rocket stove. They have holes after the primary burner and they slow the combustion, yeah less heat but pellet bag last for 6x more hours
Great concept. Only thing I would do differently is to not drill all those holes along the tubing. In order to eliminate the smoke coming back out the feed tube, open that door at the base to create a decent draft.... Additionally, you might consider drilling only one small hole toward the rear of the bottom chamber to allow just enough oxygen to get in that might help burn the gases that are downstream from the burn tube. Overall, it's a great experiment worthy of kudos.
great video.. interesting seeing other designs.. great idea for window.. 4 gang chrome switch plate and glass from a small 150 halogen work light, there high temp glass.. but seem to getting harder to get.. and a 4 to 8mm fire cord.. this works well, looks great... but good idea to preheat the glass with blow torch, with a swiping motion.. stops it from sooting up!..
Несколько раз подходил к теме подобной ---отказывался ... Пока не понял смысл : сжигать хлам любой с толком ... Хорошие возможности у фермера !!! Надумал--- сделал !!!МОЛОДЕЦ!!!
Seeing your build I was thinking in the zigzag exahust. I ve seen similar approach but more like an S (or Z). I think this is for increase air/metal surface. Great TIG welding skills!
Год назад
Something like Wiseway pellet rocket stove, I guess? This one could also maybe be used with pellets. just some kind of metal bucket at the top of the feeder and a metal grid in the burning chamber.
Ok you get it that the post flow is important and are keeping it on the puddle on till it cools. But if you yank the rod out of the argon shield while it's still red hot. I would recommend snipping off the oxidized end of the rod before you reintroduce it into your next puddle.😊
need your air intake in front down low. get rid of the drilled holes on the sides near the back. feed box should be closed after start up. no air coming in the feed box.
Nice rocket mass heater. I like the back and forth box tubing. If you want to "reburn" the exhaust-air mixture from the wood, maybe a J-shaped piece of conduit or pipe that's inserted through the "air control" door at the front, instead of the drilled holes. It's a thought. I like your build the way it is, though.
I' might try one of these designs with the flame tubes all sloping upward a little bit to encourage the heat to create a draft. I really like your concept.
in Scouts we had a 44 gallon drum on the fire with a metal funnel in the top to pour the cold water into it up to an outlet pipe on the side . just pour an amount of water in top and same came out the outlet . similar idea but could control how much came out .
Your daughter is a precious child, God has blessed you greatly sir. Very interesting design, but don't insulate it without first finding a way to harvest the heat produced; it's just playing with fire for amusement if you don't use the heat. Cheers from NY State in America :-)
I like this build Great job. I think this rocket stove would be better using wood pellets as fuel. Leave about a 3/4" gap at the bottom for air intake.
You should follow the basic design for rocket stoves then after the exhaust riser implement your manifold just like they place the bench after the exhaust riser. The initial tall (3 or 4 times the the hight of the burn chamber) exhaust riser is needed to get a clean burn.
Are you touching your plasma tip? 😊 Don't touch your plasma torch tip. At first I wasn't sure what to think of your channel, but I like it. I watched several builds you have done, and you do a good job fabricating and welding your ideas together.
Brilliant design, I really think you have something there! If I understand your direction, you're trying to create a thermal mass heater that will store as much heart as possible, probably to last all day or overnight. I have two suggestions that might help with that. First, half fill those heating tubes with pea gravel, which should absorb more of that extra heat. Second, how about preheating the air before it gets to the intake, so that you get a more complete burn? Try tacking an L shaped tube along the side of the combustion chamber and around the air intake, so that the heat from the combustion chamber is captured and reused. I've seen this principle used before, and it does make a noticeable difference.
Just found you on RUclips.. Great videos. I like that you are taking it past the basic rocket stove. Would it improve things if you made the fuel tube taller and put a door on top so O2 couldn't come in thru the fuel port. On the Oxygen port ( also where you light the stove) would also be an adjustable door. This intake port might need to be a little farther from the flame front. The purpose is to limit the source of O2 and make it adjustable. By doing this, you can create an intake draft so that ALL the heat must go into the stove. None would escape into the air by exiting the intake air tube. Just food for thought. Again, great videos.
From my research, seems to like the riser to go straight up before it weaves back and forth, get the draw going much better. But, I've only made one, working on one with lots of mass for the house with water heating system for even more mass. Since water is a much better thermal battery per pound than concrete and bricks. Add insulation around the first section of riser for even better drawing power.
Awsome build video, as a fitter turner I loved it, for my 2 cents worth @ 30 minutes on the video I think the fuel tube should be by your left knee. That would get the air velocity going and stop heat and smoke coming out the fuel tube.
good video, If you ever have a problem with your mig welding, move the fan away from your work, the one you put onto your work bench before you started welding, a fan can blow the argon gas away from where you want it to go, onto your work,
As always, I'm impressed. Seeing the flames just coming out of the feed box, I'm wondering if this is due to the burn tube and flue being too long. Then I saw those flames stop after the stove heated up. I'm guessing this will take longer to heat up when the water piping and insulation is added. Plus there was different behaviour with different types of feed. (Softwood vs hardwood) So I'm wondering is it worth having a fan while heating up to minimize the smoke and speed the heating up to operating temp.
In commercially water heaters you put in a flue gas bypass, and then you bypass during heating of the stack and once the draw is ok, the bypass closes and the flue gas is cooled more in the longer flue gas duct.
@@christianandersen7458 Yes. Some kind of bypass. Maybe less of a bypass of the stack or heat mass and more of a direct-to-the-chimney damper that you slowly close as it warms up. You could probably rig up a bi-metal coil, like the choke on a gas engine. Getting that column of air on its side moving takes some doing, but once it's going the chimney will keep it going. That's one of my engineering concerns making a rocket-stove mass heater of my own. First off, I wouldn't use metal for the guts of it, unless I were going high-dollar refractory alloy. Better to use fire brick, because the way you get the clean burn is by insulating that riser so it burns at super-high temps. These metal-shop rocket stoves are curiosities.
the flames coming out the top is caused by the holes he drilled into the sides, the stove should be sucking from the feed which would cause no smoke to get into the room.
Too much smoke coming out of the fuel hopper means poor draft up the flue or too much primary air intake. A baffle just downstream from the firebox would constrict air flow, increase flow rate and create turbulence to aid combustion. This may actually increase draft because the hotter burn will expand into the smoke chamber and the baffle will prevent backflow.
How hard is it to start, to draft? I wonder if there's a way to put a fan in the chimney to get the initial flow started? Or blast a torch at the base to get the heat to rise?
IMPORTANT: No one should take away heat to heat ie. water pipe/water jacket near combustion chamber that too causes creosotes by lowering combustion temperatures. Instead heat water from upside down barrel or equivalent near the top inside or out( your choice) by this time all combustion should be done. Thumbs up for creativity. :)
First nice video. Excellent job not short cutting by welding rusty metal. As an experiment try every thing your heart desires. Thumbs up. IMPORTANT: NO ONE should ever choke down a rocket stove, it creates creosote, that in turn creates chimney fires. Always run full throttle.
your air intake is closed in your test burns, the secondary holes are not necessary (if you open the intake) use it like a damper to control amount of air... wide open= hotter burn
Do you think with so many holes in the side it will be difficult to control the air flow? I don't hear the classic rocket sound these stoves have become known for?
just wondering and not trying be rude or something just really curious bro. what you doing for living . because i had a plan to spend my time to build rocket stove and sell it is it worth or not? thanks.
Close off the feed tube make the air come in from the bottom under the fire box plus add a chamber after the fire box that reverse the air flow to a larger section burn the air can achieve 1200 f degrees evaporated fumes come off at a lower temp than fire but are far more combustible
Это не ракетная печь.Принцип работы ракетной печи показан неправильно, идея взята у индецев племени Дакота, рылись в земле две сообщающиеся ямки, в одно отверстие вставлялся хворост, в канале происходило горение и дым выходил через другое отверстие. Печь была усовершенствована и отобрана на конкурсе печей из 3000 вариантов. идея заключалась в том что в вертикальной трубе стенки теплоизолированы и развивалась большая температура, чем достигалась полное сгорание топлива, в печи нет золы, она тоже сгорала, затем газы нагревали большую бочку и уходили в длинную горизонтальную трубу, выполняющюю роль теплоаккумулятора и лежанки, а зтем остыв, выходили в небольшую вертикальную трубу, практически холодными, печь имеет высокий КПД, позволяя небольшим количеством хвроста и наличию теплоаккумулятора запастись теплом на всю ночь. Печь так называется потому что издаёт похожий на ракету звук.
i like your ideas. but i think some of the ways you try to heat water arent really good for the rocket stove to function properly. i think its probably best to have a insulated burn tube kept as hot as possible with a insulated riser as close to the burn box as possible for the best draw. the outer barrel/gas bottle that many people put on their rocket heaters where the hot gases hit the top and start to head back down is the place you want to take heat from, which only adds to the draw by cooling those gasses and helps them to fall. anything after the exit of the barrel is what i would call waste heat, that can go into heating a bench or preheating water before it gets to the main hot spot. just my ideas.. i hope it makes sense :)
Thanks X3 for sharing your video .... wood burn (oxidizing) ratio should be 1 of fuel (wood) and 6+ of Air ... your rocket stove is oxygen poor at the wood contact.... the wood seem to be chocking the airflow at the intake ; )
Did you substitute copper tube, 25mm diam, elipsted, for your water transporter, stainless steel has thd worse heat absorbtion rate. I love the design tho, thanks for posting.
That's my 3rd hand. It's manly used for tacking up with the TIG. If you have a tig welder I would make one, very handy. The gloves are made by TIG Mate.
Hmmmm... My two cents for all it's worth... The burn chamber/lower tube looks to be larger in area than the rest, so your cross-section area decreases as the "smoke" enters the heat exchanger flue area. (That's going to cut down on potential draw for sure.) Adding so many extra holes in the after burn area will surely decrease the draw potential even with the added height of the chimney. If you want a secondary burn effect for efficiency, you need some way to heat up that secondary air before it enters the flame. (Add a piece of angle iron to make a triangular slot/groove passage the length of the lower tube and over the secondary burn holes so the air has to flow alongside the burner area and be heated before it enters the secondary air holes.) Not nearly as many holes through into the exchanger...only needs a few. At the end of each point where the exhaust changes direction in the heat exchanger, instead of leaving it as clunky 90 degree bends, I think a slice of large halfpipe would help. (Diameter twice that of the flue pipe so it smoothly changes the exhaust direction, with a halfmoon plate to cover it over, then you can just leave the heat exchanger pieces as straight pieces.)
A plaz-arc is great for stainless, chrome and thick carbon but on thin carbon it's really overkill. The grinder really was the best way to go on that very thin sheet of rusty carbon.
Excellent stuff but as a fabrication guy myself I can't see the advantage of tigging it instead of mig much faster less costly if set at right voltage you can achieve as pleasant a weld as Tig at half the cost if not more and I know the argument is quality and to be honest if you Tig you certainly can mig ???? Puzzled that's all but brilliant stove's though
Yep you're right, I don't have a Mig set up for anything other than gasless wire at the moment and tig welding is more interesting to watch and for me more interesting to do. Who doesn't love a stack of dimes. Cheers
If you want to see the whole purpose start at 10:00-12:00, then go to 25:00 to see the start up... If you're still interested go back to the beginning.
You missed the point of a rocket stove (efficient burning): don't get the heat out until the burn completely finished. That's why most of the rocket build has thermal insulation around the burning channel and the heat riser. Nice work tho.
@@LittleAussieRockets yeah my first one has a burn chamber 1/4" thick, i've never experienced any problems using proper gauge metals. i have melted aluminum cans in my cast core model. thanks for the response :) good work
dear friend, a pleasure to greet. I make pellet stoves, perhaps not at all fantastic, and have refined many ideas that have seemed very attractive to me and I have humbly tried to improve things. I wanted to ask a question since I saw that you were welding with a TIG. I want to start welding with TIG since I have always done it with a coated arc. Can it be welded without filler mixture? that is, with gases, I appreciate your answer, and forgive me if my bad English has been difficult to understand my question, I am pleased to do it in another way so that you can understand well, I live in Chile in southern Patagonia (Coyhaique )
Hi Claudio Yes you can weld with a TIG without filler wire. It is called fusing, and works best on stainless steel. The metal must be perfectly clean for best results. However the weld will not be as strong with out filler wire, and you have to use pure argon gas, other wise you won't have a stable arc. Keep your tungsten nice and sharp and remember to hold a tight arc length. Oh and one more thing with fuse welding, hot and quick is better than slow and cold.
Built 2 here in az after seeing them at tabernacles in Oklahoma, great job.
Yeah really cool mate. I played around with this stuff on my other channel about 8 years back and made all sorts of version with similar rhs. I got fantastic results in the end. Even made a keg pizza oven. I sat ontop of the 6 inch high out put and then went around the keg and then out a 5 inch flew. The keg was wrapped in a concrete chicken wire mix with a 1 inch space for the heat to pass through. I heated up very quick and made amazing pizza with a door made at the keg outlet end and a peephile I plugged with a timber stoppee big enough to work as a handle to. When you turned it the stopper came out like a plug to look through at your pizza 😋
I’ve been looking for designs that would be light since I need to put it in an upstairs room, this looks like one of the best and easiest to go with; my only alterations would be for space and an angled feed. Thanks for all your videos!
Thank you. Rocket stoves are a bit like Thomas Edison's experimentation with light bulb filament materials. I've seen a thousand different variations over at least 15 years starting with Larry Winiarsky's versions. And I've done a lot of my own experiments. It's always interesting to see all the different approaches people take. And the different applications or specific uses for capturing heat.
Can you please share the best design in your opinion ?
These rocket heaters are fascinating. I really want to make one or two with my everlast welder.
You don't need secondary air intake holes in a rocket stove. These holes weaken the primary intake's suction and cause flame to come out at feed port.
I agree, and also the holes are poor for air mixing. If you really wanted sec. air you need a bit of length to the nozzles - normally I would say 10xDiameter, but less might suffice.
Checkout wiseway pellet rocket stove. They have holes after the primary burner and they slow the combustion, yeah less heat but pellet bag last for 6x more hours
Great concept. Only thing I would do differently is to not drill all those holes along the tubing. In order to eliminate the smoke coming back out the feed tube, open that door at the base to create a decent draft.... Additionally, you might consider drilling only one small hole toward the rear of the bottom chamber to allow just enough oxygen to get in that might help burn the gases that are downstream from the burn tube. Overall, it's a great experiment worthy of kudos.
I like your works.
great video.. interesting seeing other designs.. great idea for window.. 4 gang chrome switch plate and glass from a small 150 halogen work light, there high temp glass.. but seem to getting harder to get.. and a 4 to 8mm fire cord.. this works well, looks great... but good idea to preheat the glass with blow torch, with a swiping motion.. stops it from sooting up!..
Несколько раз подходил к теме подобной ---отказывался ... Пока не понял смысл : сжигать хлам любой с толком ... Хорошие возможности у фермера !!! Надумал--- сделал !!!МОЛОДЕЦ!!!
Seeing your build I was thinking in the zigzag exahust. I ve seen similar approach but more like an S (or Z). I think this is for increase air/metal surface. Great TIG welding skills!
Something like Wiseway pellet rocket stove, I guess? This one could also maybe be used with pellets. just some kind of metal bucket at the top of the feeder and a metal grid in the burning chamber.
Thanks for the beautiful Dana for help
In addition to everything else, i really enjoyed your choice of music in the video. well done!
Actually, the music is a bit of an interesting touch. Love to see you working
Ok you get it that the post flow is important and are keeping it on the puddle on till it cools.
But if you yank the rod out of the argon shield while it's still red hot. I would recommend snipping off the oxidized end of the rod before you reintroduce it into your next puddle.😊
need your air intake in front down low. get rid of the drilled holes on the sides near the back. feed box should be closed after start up. no air coming in the feed box.
I was hoping for a good description of the work. I can watch people work all the time!
How about describing how and why?
Nice rocket mass heater. I like the back and forth box tubing. If you want to "reburn" the exhaust-air mixture from the wood, maybe a J-shaped piece of conduit or pipe that's inserted through the "air control" door at the front, instead of the drilled holes. It's a thought. I like your build the way it is, though.
Thanks mate
Daughter is cute.
Good job.
I' might try one of these designs with the flame tubes all sloping upward a little bit to encourage the heat to create a draft. I really like your concept.
I am going to build one with a portable sand battery that will be heated by it.
in Scouts we had a 44 gallon drum on the fire with a metal funnel in the top to pour the cold water into it up to an outlet pipe on the side . just pour an amount of water in top and same came out the outlet . similar idea but could control how much came out .
Your daughter is a precious child, God has blessed you greatly sir. Very interesting design, but don't insulate it without first finding a way to harvest the heat produced; it's just playing with fire for amusement if you don't use the heat. Cheers from NY State in America :-)
I like this build Great job. I think this rocket stove would be better using wood pellets as fuel. Leave about a 3/4" gap at the bottom for air intake.
You should follow the basic design for rocket stoves then after the exhaust riser implement your manifold just like they place the bench after the exhaust riser. The initial tall (3 or 4 times the the hight of the burn chamber) exhaust riser is needed to get a clean burn.
Cool design.
Are you touching your plasma tip? 😊 Don't touch your plasma torch tip. At first I wasn't sure what to think of your channel, but I like it. I watched several builds you have done, and you do a good job fabricating and welding your ideas together.
Brilliant design, I really think you have something there! If I understand your direction, you're trying to create a thermal mass heater that will store as much heart as possible, probably to last all day or overnight. I have two suggestions that might help with that. First, half fill those heating tubes with pea gravel, which should absorb more of that extra heat. Second, how about preheating the air before it gets to the intake, so that you get a more complete burn? Try tacking an L shaped tube along the side of the combustion chamber and around the air intake, so that the heat from the combustion chamber is captured and reused. I've seen this principle used before, and it does make a noticeable difference.
Thanks mate 👍 the gravel idea is gold 😀
i Was thinking the same thing on a comment I read just before. "fill the flue with paper to kickstart your draft"
Just found you on RUclips.. Great videos. I like that you are taking it past the basic rocket stove. Would it improve things if you made the fuel tube taller and put a door on top so O2 couldn't come in thru the fuel port. On the Oxygen port ( also where you light the stove) would also be an adjustable door. This intake port might need to be a little farther from the flame front. The purpose is to limit the source of O2 and make it adjustable. By doing this, you can create an intake draft so that ALL the heat must go into the stove. None would escape into the air by exiting the intake air tube. Just food for thought. Again, great videos.
From my research, seems to like the riser to go straight up before it weaves back and forth, get the draw going much better. But, I've only made one, working on one with lots of mass for the house with water heating system for even more mass. Since water is a much better thermal battery per pound than concrete and bricks. Add insulation around the first section of riser for even better drawing power.
Awsome build video, as a fitter turner I loved it, for my 2 cents worth @ 30 minutes on the video I think the fuel tube should be by your left knee. That would get the air velocity going and stop heat and smoke coming out the fuel tube.
Ewe
Good Job
Thanks mate! Half way there.
I love your show and building ... I want this one..... how do I get it.,.....and the music really worked for me as well... chuffed choice.
good video, If you ever have a problem with your mig welding, move the fan away from your work, the one you put onto your work bench before you started welding, a fan can blow the argon gas away from where you want it to go, onto your work,
Thanks mate
should have made the feed on a 45 degree angle. so when you put the wood in, the fire goes not up in the feed but up in the chimney.
Muito bom. Parabéns. Zona Sul Sto. Amaro SP.SP. Brasil.
As always, I'm impressed.
Seeing the flames just coming out of the feed box, I'm wondering if this is due to the burn tube and flue being too long. Then I saw those flames stop after the stove heated up.
I'm guessing this will take longer to heat up when the water piping and insulation is added. Plus there was different behaviour with different types of feed. (Softwood vs hardwood)
So I'm wondering is it worth having a fan while heating up to minimize the smoke and speed the heating up to operating temp.
In commercially water heaters you put in a flue gas bypass, and then you bypass during heating of the stack and once the draw is ok, the bypass closes and the flue gas is cooled more in the longer flue gas duct.
@@christianandersen7458 Yes. Some kind of bypass. Maybe less of a bypass of the stack or heat mass and more of a direct-to-the-chimney damper that you slowly close as it warms up. You could probably rig up a bi-metal coil, like the choke on a gas engine. Getting that column of air on its side moving takes some doing, but once it's going the chimney will keep it going.
That's one of my engineering concerns making a rocket-stove mass heater of my own. First off, I wouldn't use metal for the guts of it, unless I were going high-dollar refractory alloy. Better to use fire brick, because the way you get the clean burn is by insulating that riser so it burns at super-high temps. These metal-shop rocket stoves are curiosities.
the flames coming out the top is caused by the holes he drilled into the sides, the stove should be sucking from the feed which would cause no smoke to get into the room.
Your daughter may have had the best first instincts; start a fire in the chimney to create a draft 😉
Too much smoke coming out of the fuel hopper means poor draft up the flue or too much primary air intake. A baffle just downstream from the firebox would constrict air flow, increase flow rate and create turbulence to aid combustion. This may actually increase draft because the hotter burn will expand into the smoke chamber and the baffle will prevent backflow.
a baffle of thin gauge stainless will heat up almost white. Then it'll burn all left over gases.
Ciao più belli della stufa ci sono solo i tuoi bambini, buona vita a tutti e grazie per la conoscenza che diffondi.
Thanks mate🤣👍
I need this for the inside to heat my 40-foot long school bus!
How hard is it to start, to draft? I wonder if there's a way to put a fan in the chimney to get the initial flow started? Or blast a torch at the base to get the heat to rise?
IMPORTANT: No one should take away heat to heat ie. water pipe/water jacket near combustion chamber that too causes creosotes by lowering combustion temperatures. Instead heat water from upside down barrel or equivalent near the top inside or out( your choice) by this time all combustion should be done. Thumbs up for creativity. :)
Is that you on the guitar or harmonica yet? You're the welder extraordinaire!
How well does it radiate heat?
First nice video. Excellent job not short cutting by welding rusty metal. As an experiment try every thing your heart desires. Thumbs up.
IMPORTANT: NO ONE should ever choke down a rocket stove, it creates creosote,
that in turn creates chimney fires. Always run full throttle.
Thanks mate, much appreciated 👍
your air intake is closed in your test burns, the secondary holes are not necessary (if you open the intake) use it like a damper to control amount of air... wide open= hotter burn
Do you think with so many holes in the side it will be difficult to control the air flow? I don't hear the classic rocket sound these stoves have become known for?
just wondering and not trying be rude or something just really curious bro. what you doing for living .
because i had a plan to spend my time to build rocket stove and sell it is it worth or not? thanks.
You make some glass windows where the holes are
I admire your dedication. Just wondering, would it be simpler and cleaner to connect the channels with 45 deg. cuts?
Why are flames and smoke coming out the feed hole?
24:05 ...haha shot down on the cake !
The smoke is gonna take the easiest path which is the feeder tube.
Close off the feed tube make the air come in from the bottom under the fire box plus add a chamber after the fire box that reverse the air flow to a larger section burn the air can achieve 1200 f degrees evaporated fumes come off at a lower temp than fire but are far more combustible
재미있게 잘 봤어요
Это не ракетная печь.Принцип работы ракетной печи показан неправильно, идея взята у индецев племени Дакота, рылись в земле две сообщающиеся ямки, в одно отверстие вставлялся хворост, в канале происходило горение и дым выходил через другое отверстие. Печь была усовершенствована и отобрана на конкурсе печей из 3000 вариантов. идея заключалась в том что в вертикальной трубе стенки теплоизолированы и развивалась большая температура, чем достигалась полное сгорание топлива, в печи нет золы, она тоже сгорала, затем газы нагревали большую бочку и уходили в длинную горизонтальную трубу, выполняющюю роль теплоаккумулятора и лежанки, а зтем остыв, выходили в небольшую вертикальную трубу, практически холодными, печь имеет высокий КПД, позволяя небольшим количеством хвроста и наличию теплоаккумулятора запастись теплом на всю ночь. Печь так называется потому что издаёт похожий на ракету звук.
i like your ideas. but i think some of the ways you try to heat water arent really good for the rocket stove to function properly. i think its probably best to have a insulated burn tube kept as hot as possible with a insulated riser as close to the burn box as possible for the best draw. the outer barrel/gas bottle that many people put on their rocket heaters where the hot gases hit the top and start to head back down is the place you want to take heat from, which only adds to the draw by cooling those gasses and helps them to fall. anything after the exit of the barrel is what i would call waste heat, that can go into heating a bench or preheating water before it gets to the main hot spot.
just my ideas.. i hope it makes sense :)
Thanks mate, I hear you.
Thanks X3 for sharing your video .... wood burn (oxidizing) ratio should be 1 of fuel (wood) and 6+ of Air ... your rocket stove is oxygen poor at the wood contact.... the wood seem to be chocking the airflow at the intake ; )
Did you substitute copper tube, 25mm diam, elipsted, for your water transporter, stainless steel has thd worse heat absorbtion rate. I love the design tho, thanks for posting.
What's the York barbell weights purpose and what kind of welding gloves are those? Thanks.
That's my 3rd hand. It's manly used for tacking up with the TIG. If you have a tig welder I would make one, very handy. The gloves are made by TIG Mate.
You've likely figured out by how you have too many air holes to keep your feed tube from burning vertically.
Félicitation pour ce partage.
Est-ce que vous vendez des exemplaires de vos fabrications?
add a oil line then its a rocket stove
Bu sobayı pellet ile çalıştırabilir misin?
Hmmmm... My two cents for all it's worth... The burn chamber/lower tube looks to be larger in area than the rest, so your cross-section area decreases as the "smoke" enters the heat exchanger flue area. (That's going to cut down on potential draw for sure.)
Adding so many extra holes in the after burn area will surely decrease the draw potential even with the added height of the chimney. If you want a secondary burn effect for efficiency, you need some way to heat up that secondary air before it enters the flame. (Add a piece of angle iron to make a triangular slot/groove passage the length of the lower tube and over the secondary burn holes so the air has to flow alongside the burner area and be heated before it enters the secondary air holes.) Not nearly as many holes through into the exchanger...only needs a few.
At the end of each point where the exhaust changes direction in the heat exchanger, instead of leaving it as clunky 90 degree bends, I think a slice of large halfpipe would help. (Diameter twice that of the flue pipe so it smoothly changes the exhaust direction, with a halfmoon plate to cover it over, then you can just leave the heat exchanger pieces as straight pieces.)
21:35 or so...what is the crop under the linear irrigation? Curious.
Carrots, there almost ready for picking, or so the farmer tells me.
Hi, one thing that puzzled me was why did you use your angle grinder to cut the sheet steel when you have a plasma torch on hand?
I am more accurate with a grinder
A plaz-arc is great for stainless, chrome and thick carbon but on thin carbon it's really overkill. The grinder really was the best way to go on that very thin sheet of rusty carbon.
Excellent stuff but as a fabrication guy myself I can't see the advantage of tigging it instead of mig much faster less costly if set at right voltage you can achieve as pleasant a weld as Tig at half the cost if not more and I know the argument is quality and to be honest if you Tig you certainly can mig ???? Puzzled that's all but brilliant stove's though
Yep you're right, I don't have a Mig set up for anything other than gasless wire at the moment and tig welding is more interesting to watch and for me more interesting to do. Who doesn't love a stack of dimes. Cheers
O cinzeiro também está inadequado para o bom funcionamento do fogão ( stov )
Wow I'm a noob at welding but this looks neat what kind of welder is that? Is it a mig?
Hey buddy curious question what do u call that stand with the 2kg dumbell with 3 legs never seen or heard of it before??
It's called a 3rd hand. I made it a couple of years ago.
ok thanks mate
to light that you may first need to stuff some paper down the chimney then light the paper before lighting the fire below.
If you want your daughter to play around the stove it might be a good idea to tell her to put on closed shoes. If she walks on red hot hashes...
Can I using all theses rockets inside the house??? or there will be smoke???
OMG! He is using a plasma cutter. Was getting use to 100% grinding.
If you want to see the whole purpose start at 10:00-12:00, then go to 25:00 to see the start up... If you're still interested go back to the beginning.
You missed the point of a rocket stove (efficient burning): don't get the heat out until the burn completely finished. That's why most of the rocket build has thermal insulation around the burning channel and the heat riser. Nice work tho.
You use flux wire in the mig? I did but it is not succesfull, I get kraters in the weld, and ugly. What weldwire do you use?.
have you tried reversing polarity, i use clamp +ve/wire -ve for gasless it works for me.
Why the hell you drill hole on side to messup the airflow?
i like the concept bro! how did the trampoline basket-ball feel? LOL. have you ever experienced any metal meltdowns? thumbs up
No I haven't experienced the metal meltdowns. This is something I would actually like to test, can I melt metal with my rocket stove. Cheers.
@@LittleAussieRockets yeah my first one has a burn chamber 1/4" thick, i've never experienced any problems using proper gauge metals. i have melted aluminum cans in my cast core model. thanks for the response :) good work
It's not working like a rocket stove, your too many holes make it lose its effect.
O.k, now lets see you cook that Chicken.
please, can you tell me the dimension of your metal tube ?
no worries, 75mm x 75mm x 2.5mm
Open the door till the fire suck down the feed hopper
If you do not know about his work.look at "Honey-do carpenter...., he has a good idea for this type of stove..
Цель изготовления этой печки??? Сжигать дрова? И все?
why is there no shroud on your torch
You don't need it when running gasless wire.
you've made quite a few stoves, do you have a shop to sell them?
Yes we have a website it's Littleaussierocketstoves.com
atm we're a bit low in stock.
dear friend, a pleasure to greet. I make pellet stoves, perhaps not at all fantastic, and have refined many ideas that have seemed very attractive to me and I have humbly tried to improve things. I wanted to ask a question since I saw that you were welding with a TIG. I want to start welding with TIG since I have always done it with a coated arc. Can it be welded without filler mixture? that is, with gases, I appreciate your answer, and forgive me if my bad English has been difficult to understand my question, I am pleased to do it in another way so that you can understand well, I live in Chile in southern Patagonia (Coyhaique )
Hi Claudio
Yes you can weld with a TIG without filler wire. It is called fusing, and works best on stainless steel. The metal must be perfectly clean for best results. However the weld will not be as strong with out filler wire, and you have to use pure argon gas, other wise you won't have a stable arc. Keep your tungsten nice and sharp and remember to hold a tight arc length. Oh and one more thing with fuse welding, hot and quick is better than slow and cold.
@@LittleAussieRockets I am infinitely grateful for the time you took to clarify my doubts. a big hug. and my eternal gratitude.
Acho a boca de lenha muito baixa ,,,, deveria envolver toda lenha e ainda com tampa ...
What's the end goal? Will you ever achieve it or is this one of those endless tinkering hobbies?
Probably the latter mate, hopefully along the way we all learn something.
Tell me you didn't put a welding shield over the camera lens. Really? OMA that's funny. LOL.
The rocket stove you made doesn't suit the principle,but it(s a mistake that smoke comes out from the entrance.
Have you burnt coal in any of these?
Yep. I tried bbq heat beads. Took a bit to get going, and it didn't pump out the same heat as wood. But it worked.
Лайк👍👍👍👍
Not sure why you are using TIG... MIG or stick would be lots faster
The side holes and a relative short throat cancels much of the rocket effect.
Agreed
in case you wonder where all the brown spots on your motorbike come rom....