Great video, not something I need to do thankfully but nice to see how the dash is put together. I need to replace the fan in my case, and I was able to pull it out but couldn't fit it out from underneath at least with reasonable force. Looks like removing the knee airbag would help a lot, the issue now is that the clip for The cable going to the blower has The little push tab broken off so the wire is stuck (mine is left hand drive)
Hi there, I never had to remove the fan unit. Done a lot more on 406s in my time they were reasonably easy to change. The push tab might make it a bit fiddlier but a small screwdriver should still be able to release it.
Damn I'd pay someone to do this for me with that much detail involved I just don't have the patience to do it lol as mine does actually need doing I even thought of removing the whole unit but again no time lol great video with much needed details
I cant really sugar coat that one, its quite a tedious and time consuming job. This is a lot handier than removing the full dashboard but still quite involved. Best of luck with finding a mechanic or someone willing to do it, the owners club facebook page might be the place to ask.
I see threads on the forums where main dealers were charging £1000s for a dash out job, this in itself would not be a job most mechanics would want to tackle as it is fiddly and verging on the realms of arts and crafts with the epoxy and 3D printing but it is something that has been mentioned that owners have done DIY.
Hi! I also had the same problem with my 407, on the same side, but I removed the entire board to access the flap. I glued and strengthened the axle, but after a year the axle broke on the other side, and I gave up. The problem is due to the fact that the engine is powered for too long when the flap reaches its end, by the control unit. I think that a better solution in this situation was to mount a spring on the axle in the place where the break is, with the diameter of the axle.
Yep - you are right. I also added an endpoint to both sides, so the flap should had a bigger place where to force. And it didn’t help. Another idea was to create an electronic circuit which will stop the engine when higher current detected. Maybe in future I will try it
Slightly involved haha. Yes i have had a 3D printer about a year now, probably a bit late for someone supposedly a design engineer. Slowly getting more used to the ins and outs of 3D printing, a brilliant bit of kit, has so many useful applications.
Hi there I honestly dont know, im in Northern Ireland and better termed as an enthusiastic owner rather than full time mechanic. Its not going to be a job most mechanics will be keen to carry out. However try the 407 owners Facebook page of french car forum and ask if anyone knows of places to have it done.
very clear and concise , thank you , i need to attemt this on my 407, So, for the slightly less ocd than you ( ie lazy me) is it really necessary to take all the dash , centre console and radio etc off ?
Hi, thanks for the comment. This is easier than what the dealers would want to do and remove the dash. However i will still concede its a reasonably involved process. Removing the parts is done to create better access. The centre console does not need to come out, that was just out because the handbrake was being worked upon at the time, although i would recommend the radio, climate control panel and sat nav screen are removed so that wiring can be moved out of the way. It would be very fiddly otherwise cutting around it and then trying to glue all back into place. There is the video of the jubilee clip being sent down the dash from the top, i personally dont like the idea of it for if anything dropped its then a hassle to get it out and i have my doubts as to how long it would last but some may feel it works well enough.
19:00 Great Video - Thanks! - we might also do it. But one question: what is that in minute 19 - you're printing something with the 3d printer. But what exactly? Do have some more information about that? This is not so clear for us and you can't really see it in the video. The rest should be fine. Thanks!
Hi there Those are the reinforcement pieces i drew up. Rather than take a chance and hope the new part would be strong enough, i seen some bits on forums where they had broke and some people took measures to strengthen the flaps. So i went full belts and braces and strengthened this area as much as i could with this sandwich of 3d printed parts. The STL parts are in the video description if you find someone with a 3D printer or use a 3D printing service you can use those files to get the parts printed.
Thanks for a very detailed video! This helps a lot! I have some questions: 1. When you cut the hole with the drill and the saw, is there a lot of plastic sawdust everywhere? Were you able to vacuum clean or brush the particles off from inside the vent somehow? I saw another video where the cut is done with a knife after heating it with lighter. I suppose that way you don't get any sawdust. Would a soldering iron work to make the cut? 2. When re-installing the new flap, how to put it in the correct position? If you install it in a wrong position, would the motor just try to turn the flap too much then, and break the flap again or the motor itself? I guess you could just set both sides to min or max temperatures and see what is the position on the other side, if it is a dual ventilation kind. How did you do it? 3. When putting it all back together I see from the video that the motor itself already keeps the cut piece on its place. I am actually wondering is it even necessary to use any glue? Maybe just use sealant? I'm thinking that next time if this breaks again, then it would be easy to cut the sealant off with maybe just a knife and then it's an easy fix to change it again. 4. Also what kind of sealant would work? Does it need to be the car window sealant? I'm considering using some silicone sealant that I used in the kitchen just a while ago. That way I don't have to buy a new one and I can use the rest of the silicone sealant. No waste. I'm wondering would a silicone sealant be able to withstand the sub-zero temperatures in the winter? I think generally silicone should hold nicely in low temperatures too. 5. One more question. Is there any other way to turn the flaps manually, does it have to be the 3D-printer tool? is there enough torque to turn it if I use some prying tool to turn it, or a right sized table knife or perhaps a ruler?
I have an idea also about the reinforcements of the flap axis. The axis has all those triangular shaped gaps in it. Would it be a good reinforcing method to just add some glue or sealant into those gaps? Then when the axis turns the glue in the gaps would also take the load partly. This would be easier than making a metal reinforcement. Not equally strong, but might still be enough to work through the car's lifetime.
Hi there, thanks for the comment. 1: I have a vacuum cleaner with an attachment that is a smaller diameter tube capable of going into that area and removing what it can. I cant actually remember if i did do that but probably did. It isn't really something i would worry about as the fan in the unit will quickly blow out any dust. Soldering iron could work but in there in that limited space your too liable to slip and cut too much, get burnt or burn some other trim. I think the edge it would leave would also be harder to glue when finished. 2: The motor will set the position of the new flap, the key on the end of the motor means the flap will only go on that way. Also take a look at the video, there is enough of the motor mounts on the uncut section of the heater box for it to be correctly referenced when the fasteners holding the motor are back in place. The motor itself is a stepper motor so it will know where to stop if it has been properly pushed into its mounting holes. 3: I think glue is best to ensure the piece that was cut out stays in place, the motor does have a suprising amount of torque in it and an epoxy type adhesive will hold it in place securely with the correct mechanical properties. Sealant on its own would not be quite as effective. Regarding the type of sealant, it doesn't really need to be anything too special, silicone would probably work just as well, not sure it has the same long term sticking power as polyurethane sealant but it is only being used to keep the air inside the heater box. 4: I remember on the first 407 coupe i did this on i used my pinky finger to turn the flap, its not the most comfortable and might not be suitable for all finger sizes. The 3D tool was made just for the fun of it. Perhaps a wide enough flat head screwdriver or if you had another spare motor from a scrap 407 you could make a tool. Just be careful if using anything like a screwdriver that you do not damage the area where the motor slides into.
Hi again, and thanks for the answers. I finally finished my repair, with success. I'll post my observations, they may be helpful for some people. First of all, I cut some corners with mine (compared to your video). I didn't disconnect all those wires. I disconnected only the knee airbag and the flap motor. I was able to push the other wires out of the way without disconnecting them. My car is a left hand drive and I fixed the driver's side ventilation as a mirror image of yours. I also don't have GPS in the car, so maybe it's slightly different because of that. Anyways the wires didn't cause any problems to me. Technically you don't need to disconnect even the radio. I did however remove the top vent cover before I started doing anything so that I can look inside and be sure that the problem is indeed in this flap, and not some other problem. after you set the ventilation direction towards the face you can see inside. Change temperature from min to max and see that the flap underneath is not moving while on the passenger side the flap is moving like it's supposed to move. Then before sawing I also kept the flap motor connected to the wire, played with the temperature and noticed that the motor itself is working. That way I made sure that I'm fixing the right thing. I bought a small metal saw from a hardware store, and cut its blade shorter myself. That was a good tool for this purpose. I used a regular vacuum cleaner to get the plastic sawdust out and then tried to wipe inside as much as I could with my hand. I used epoxy glue too for easily accessible areas while the motor was connected. Then next day after drying I took the motor out and I used silicone sealant to cover all the holes and cuts. Silicone takes quite long to dry. You should give it at least two days. After that I tried connecting the wires and everything and running the ventilation. I notices with my hand that there were still some leaks. I had another go with the silicone. The area is so small that even after my second silicone application there were still some leakage, but very small, and the ventilation already works nicely. I thought that it doesn't really matter that much if it leaks a little. The air is already filtered at that point and the air just goes inside the cabin anyways. So I left it like that. If it bothers later I can add more sealant then. While I had the airbag out, I did start the car a few times when testing how the thing works, so the car obviously warned about faulty airbag and registered a fault code. After I re-installed the airbag I used the Diagbox to remove the fault code. After that the airbag warning light pops up again every time I start the car, but it no longer registers any fault codes. Did you have this sort of issues with your car? I've spent some time studying the possible causes. The airbag system has some sort of a permanent memory for crashes, but since my case was not a crash, I'm guessing it could be something else. I read somewhere online that the battery inside the airbag could have too low a change. I guess it makes sense that when the airbag was disconnected for so long (at least a week), the battery might be low because of that. I haven't really driven the car yet after the fix. Let's see if a long drive fixes the problem. Did you have any this sort of problems yourself?
I solved my airbag problem today. I took the knee airbag out again and observed the connection again. I had connected it too loosely earlier. That's why it didn't register a fault, but the warning light was on. The connector had to be pushed in using some force. Now it's perfect again. No more warning lights!
@@vesajakobsson2560 Hi there, good you got the flap issue sorted. Regarding the airbag no never had any issues there, disconnect the battery before removing or reconnecting the airbag module. Although at times i did reconnect the battery with the airbag removed to test the heater flap motor. When all was reconnected in the end it worked fine. As far as i am aware there is no battery in the airbag module, scrapyards sell airbag modules that has sat disconnected for years. As far as i know they use electricity to detonate an explosive charge. Crash data will only store on the airbag ECU and you would have an error for that showing. Most likely is a loose or damaged connector going to the airbag module.
I would take the motors off completely and just manually adjust the flaps with screw driver in "winter position" and "summer position" (hot/cold). You can still adjust the direct of the airflow and fan speed to keep the cabin comfy enough for different weathers. If you feel too cold in the summer, just turn fan off or adjust the flaps slightly to warmer with screwdriver. The motors will just break the flaps again and again, because it is a bad design ac-unit (worst I have ever seen). There is no cure to this problem called PSA.
A bit too much of a faff that, i change the temperature multiple times on a journey. it seems from the owners club that the stenegthed flaps with the steel spine last. If push come to shove it might be an option to 3D scan the flap, and send off the STL file to have a new flap made from metal. There are services that will 3D print metal not sure of the cost.
I am not 100% sure as i have not worked on an LHD car, but i imagine the heater box is the same unit. In general the drivers side is slightly harder because of the reduced access, be that right or left hand drive.
Oh yes, even with the new revision which should be "reinforced" I had an issue. So buy a new pair from china, and use steel to make them stiffer. Instead of drilling the steel to the new flap, I would recommend to use two-component glue and clasic zip ties.
The glue gun in fairness was not really the right tool for the job, windscreen sealant worked much better at smoothing over any remaining gaps. Im a bit OCD when it comes to over engineering the strengthening so felt compelled to reinforce them.
The automatic captioning thing on RUclips apparently will translate it into different languages (usual google translate context issues) For the scale my channel is at now it would not make sense to hire a translator and edit each video for different languages
Widząc Angielskiego fachowca w akcji, nie dziwię się, że Land Rover, Jaguar notorycznie trafiają do serwisów. Nie dziwię się też, że kupujecie Francuskie auta. Zwyczajnie są lepsze od Waszych. Kiedyś słabo skopiowaliście maszynę tkacką, i do dziś słabo Wam wychodzi kopiowanie.
Seeing an English professional in action, I'm not surprised that Land Rover, Jaguar notoriously hit the services. I'm also not surprised that you buy French cars. They are simply better than yours. You used to copy a weaving machine poorly, and to this day you are doing poorly copying. ^ thats what comes out of google translate, not sure if its what your meant to say. Im not English, what does hitting the services mean, not sure what the weaving machine is, possibly a reference to a 3D printer? and my CAD skills may not be to your liking.
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![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Great job.
As always, thanks for sharing your tutorials !!
I AM FCKN HATING EVERY MINUTE OF THE PROCESS ty for the vid bro
Yep it is not the most pleasant process, the full selection of bad words may be needed.
Great video, not something I need to do thankfully but nice to see how the dash is put together. I need to replace the fan in my case, and I was able to pull it out but couldn't fit it out from underneath at least with reasonable force. Looks like removing the knee airbag would help a lot, the issue now is that the clip for The cable going to the blower has The little push tab broken off so the wire is stuck (mine is left hand drive)
Hi there,
I never had to remove the fan unit. Done a lot more on 406s in my time they were reasonably easy to change.
The push tab might make it a bit fiddlier but a small screwdriver should still be able to release it.
Damn I'd pay someone to do this for me with that much detail involved I just don't have the patience to do it lol as mine does actually need doing I even thought of removing the whole unit but again no time lol great video with much needed details
I cant really sugar coat that one, its quite a tedious and time consuming job. This is a lot handier than removing the full dashboard but still quite involved. Best of luck with finding a mechanic or someone willing to do it, the owners club facebook page might be the place to ask.
Nice job!!! That would be an expensive repair. Thanks 4 sharing.
I see threads on the forums where main dealers were charging £1000s for a dash out job, this in itself would not be a job most mechanics would want to tackle as it is fiddly and verging on the realms of arts and crafts with the epoxy and 3D printing but it is something that has been mentioned that owners have done DIY.
Hi! I also had the same problem with my 407, on the same side, but I removed the entire board to access the flap. I glued and strengthened the axle, but after a year the axle broke on the other side, and I gave up. The problem is due to the fact that the engine is powered for too long when the flap reaches its end, by the control unit. I think that a better solution in this situation was to mount a spring on the axle in the place where the break is, with the diameter of the axle.
Yep - you are right. I also added an endpoint to both sides, so the flap should had a bigger place where to force. And it didn’t help. Another idea was to create an electronic circuit which will stop the engine when higher current detected. Maybe in future I will try it
That was some Serious Wreching...
Didn't know you have a 3D printer nowadays.
Nice!
Slightly involved haha.
Yes i have had a 3D printer about a year now, probably a bit late for someone supposedly a design engineer.
Slowly getting more used to the ins and outs of 3D printing, a brilliant bit of kit, has so many useful applications.
Should I cut around the hole where the flap axis goes in. Would it be better, or should I cut the hole out too?
Hi, just as it has been done in the video. It was cut that way to allow the flap to come out of the dash.
Where can I get this done in Kent please, and how much?
Hi there
I honestly dont know, im in Northern Ireland and better termed as an enthusiastic owner rather than full time mechanic. Its not going to be a job most mechanics will be keen to carry out.
However try the 407 owners Facebook page of french car forum and ask if anyone knows of places to have it done.
very clear and concise , thank you , i need to attemt this on my 407, So, for the slightly less ocd than you ( ie lazy me) is it really necessary to take all the dash , centre console and radio etc off ?
Hi, thanks for the comment.
This is easier than what the dealers would want to do and remove the dash. However i will still concede its a reasonably involved process.
Removing the parts is done to create better access. The centre console does not need to come out, that was just out because the handbrake was being worked upon at the time, although i would recommend the radio, climate control panel and sat nav screen are removed so that wiring can be moved out of the way. It would be very fiddly otherwise cutting around it and then trying to glue all back into place.
There is the video of the jubilee clip being sent down the dash from the top, i personally dont like the idea of it for if anything dropped its then a hassle to get it out and i have my doubts as to how long it would last but some may feel it works well enough.
19:00 Great Video - Thanks! - we might also do it. But one question: what is that in minute 19 - you're printing something with the 3d printer. But what exactly? Do have some more information about that? This is not so clear for us and you can't really see it in the video. The rest should be fine. Thanks!
Hi there
Those are the reinforcement pieces i drew up.
Rather than take a chance and hope the new part would be strong enough, i seen some bits on forums where they had broke and some people took measures to strengthen the flaps. So i went full belts and braces and strengthened this area as much as i could with this sandwich of 3d printed parts.
The STL parts are in the video description if you find someone with a 3D printer or use a 3D printing service you can use those files to get the parts printed.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV thank you very much. You are awesome! 😍
Thanks for a very detailed video! This helps a lot! I have some questions:
1. When you cut the hole with the drill and the saw, is there a lot of plastic sawdust everywhere? Were you able to vacuum clean or brush the particles off from inside the vent somehow? I saw another video where the cut is done with a knife after heating it with lighter. I suppose that way you don't get any sawdust. Would a soldering iron work to make the cut?
2. When re-installing the new flap, how to put it in the correct position? If you install it in a wrong position, would the motor just try to turn the flap too much then, and break the flap again or the motor itself? I guess you could just set both sides to min or max temperatures and see what is the position on the other side, if it is a dual ventilation kind. How did you do it?
3. When putting it all back together I see from the video that the motor itself already keeps the cut piece on its place. I am actually wondering is it even necessary to use any glue? Maybe just use sealant? I'm thinking that next time if this breaks again, then it would be easy to cut the sealant off with maybe just a knife and then it's an easy fix to change it again.
4. Also what kind of sealant would work? Does it need to be the car window sealant? I'm considering using some silicone sealant that I used in the kitchen just a while ago. That way I don't have to buy a new one and I can use the rest of the silicone sealant. No waste. I'm wondering would a silicone sealant be able to withstand the sub-zero temperatures in the winter? I think generally silicone should hold nicely in low temperatures too.
5. One more question. Is there any other way to turn the flaps manually, does it have to be the 3D-printer tool? is there enough torque to turn it if I use some prying tool to turn it, or a right sized table knife or perhaps a ruler?
I have an idea also about the reinforcements of the flap axis. The axis has all those triangular shaped gaps in it. Would it be a good reinforcing method to just add some glue or sealant into those gaps? Then when the axis turns the glue in the gaps would also take the load partly. This would be easier than making a metal reinforcement. Not equally strong, but might still be enough to work through the car's lifetime.
Hi there, thanks for the comment.
1: I have a vacuum cleaner with an attachment that is a smaller diameter tube capable of going into that area and removing what it can. I cant actually remember if i did do that but probably did. It isn't really something i would worry about as the fan in the unit will quickly blow out any dust. Soldering iron could work but in there in that limited space your too liable to slip and cut too much, get burnt or burn some other trim. I think the edge it would leave would also be harder to glue when finished.
2: The motor will set the position of the new flap, the key on the end of the motor means the flap will only go on that way. Also take a look at the video, there is enough of the motor mounts on the uncut section of the heater box for it to be correctly referenced when the fasteners holding the motor are back in place. The motor itself is a stepper motor so it will know where to stop if it has been properly pushed into its mounting holes.
3: I think glue is best to ensure the piece that was cut out stays in place, the motor does have a suprising amount of torque in it and an epoxy type adhesive will hold it in place securely with the correct mechanical properties. Sealant on its own would not be quite as effective.
Regarding the type of sealant, it doesn't really need to be anything too special, silicone would probably work just as well, not sure it has the same long term sticking power as polyurethane sealant but it is only being used to keep the air inside the heater box.
4: I remember on the first 407 coupe i did this on i used my pinky finger to turn the flap, its not the most comfortable and might not be suitable for all finger sizes. The 3D tool was made just for the fun of it. Perhaps a wide enough flat head screwdriver or if you had another spare motor from a scrap 407 you could make a tool. Just be careful if using anything like a screwdriver that you do not damage the area where the motor slides into.
Hi again, and thanks for the answers. I finally finished my repair, with success. I'll post my observations, they may be helpful for some people. First of all, I cut some corners with mine (compared to your video). I didn't disconnect all those wires. I disconnected only the knee airbag and the flap motor. I was able to push the other wires out of the way without disconnecting them. My car is a left hand drive and I fixed the driver's side ventilation as a mirror image of yours. I also don't have GPS in the car, so maybe it's slightly different because of that. Anyways the wires didn't cause any problems to me. Technically you don't need to disconnect even the radio. I did however remove the top vent cover before I started doing anything so that I can look inside and be sure that the problem is indeed in this flap, and not some other problem. after you set the ventilation direction towards the face you can see inside. Change temperature from min to max and see that the flap underneath is not moving while on the passenger side the flap is moving like it's supposed to move. Then before sawing I also kept the flap motor connected to the wire, played with the temperature and noticed that the motor itself is working. That way I made sure that I'm fixing the right thing. I bought a small metal saw from a hardware store, and cut its blade shorter myself. That was a good tool for this purpose. I used a regular vacuum cleaner to get the plastic sawdust out and then tried to wipe inside as much as I could with my hand. I used epoxy glue too for easily accessible areas while the motor was connected. Then next day after drying I took the motor out and I used silicone sealant to cover all the holes and cuts. Silicone takes quite long to dry. You should give it at least two days. After that I tried connecting the wires and everything and running the ventilation. I notices with my hand that there were still some leaks. I had another go with the silicone. The area is so small that even after my second silicone application there were still some leakage, but very small, and the ventilation already works nicely. I thought that it doesn't really matter that much if it leaks a little. The air is already filtered at that point and the air just goes inside the cabin anyways. So I left it like that. If it bothers later I can add more sealant then.
While I had the airbag out, I did start the car a few times when testing how the thing works, so the car obviously warned about faulty airbag and registered a fault code. After I re-installed the airbag I used the Diagbox to remove the fault code. After that the airbag warning light pops up again every time I start the car, but it no longer registers any fault codes. Did you have this sort of issues with your car? I've spent some time studying the possible causes. The airbag system has some sort of a permanent memory for crashes, but since my case was not a crash, I'm guessing it could be something else. I read somewhere online that the battery inside the airbag could have too low a change. I guess it makes sense that when the airbag was disconnected for so long (at least a week), the battery might be low because of that. I haven't really driven the car yet after the fix. Let's see if a long drive fixes the problem. Did you have any this sort of problems yourself?
I solved my airbag problem today. I took the knee airbag out again and observed the connection again. I had connected it too loosely earlier. That's why it didn't register a fault, but the warning light was on. The connector had to be pushed in using some force. Now it's perfect again. No more warning lights!
@@vesajakobsson2560
Hi there, good you got the flap issue sorted.
Regarding the airbag no never had any issues there, disconnect the battery before removing or reconnecting the airbag module. Although at times i did reconnect the battery with the airbag removed to test the heater flap motor.
When all was reconnected in the end it worked fine.
As far as i am aware there is no battery in the airbag module, scrapyards sell airbag modules that has sat disconnected for years. As far as i know they use electricity to detonate an explosive charge. Crash data will only store on the airbag ECU and you would have an error for that showing. Most likely is a loose or damaged connector going to the airbag module.
I would take the motors off completely and just manually adjust the flaps with screw driver in "winter position" and "summer position" (hot/cold). You can still adjust the direct of the airflow and fan speed to keep the cabin comfy enough for different weathers. If you feel too cold in the summer, just turn fan off or adjust the flaps slightly to warmer with screwdriver. The motors will just break the flaps again and again, because it is a bad design ac-unit (worst I have ever seen). There is no cure to this problem called PSA.
A bit too much of a faff that, i change the temperature multiple times on a journey.
it seems from the owners club that the stenegthed flaps with the steel spine last.
If push come to shove it might be an option to 3D scan the flap, and send off the STL file to have a new flap made from metal. There are services that will 3D print metal not sure of the cost.
What about LHD Euro version 407?
I am not 100% sure as i have not worked on an LHD car, but i imagine the heater box is the same unit.
In general the drivers side is slightly harder because of the reduced access, be that right or left hand drive.
Oh yes, even with the new revision which should be "reinforced" I had an issue. So buy a new pair from china, and use steel to make them stiffer. Instead of drilling the steel to the new flap, I would recommend to use two-component glue and clasic zip ties.
Nice work!
Thanks for the comment
Nice! ❤
Thanks! 😄
Great thank’s❤
The heat is too big for glue gun. I fixed my flaps from above without cutting. The blue flaps was broken.
The glue gun in fairness was not really the right tool for the job, windscreen sealant worked much better at smoothing over any remaining gaps.
Im a bit OCD when it comes to over engineering the strengthening so felt compelled to reinforce them.
Bütün dillerde yayın yaparsan dünyada izlenirsin
The automatic captioning thing on RUclips apparently will translate it into different languages (usual google translate context issues)
For the scale my channel is at now it would not make sense to hire a translator and edit each video for different languages
Unsurprisingly, Peugeot decided to replace the entire heater box with a redesigned unit from a different manufacturer in 2008.
That is interesting, i knew the later cars had the slightly stronger flaps but never knew about a new heater box.
Genius!
Widząc Angielskiego fachowca w akcji, nie dziwię się, że Land Rover, Jaguar notorycznie trafiają do serwisów. Nie dziwię się też, że kupujecie Francuskie auta. Zwyczajnie są lepsze od Waszych. Kiedyś słabo skopiowaliście maszynę tkacką, i do dziś słabo Wam wychodzi kopiowanie.
Seeing an English professional in action, I'm not surprised that Land Rover, Jaguar notoriously hit the services. I'm also not surprised that you buy French cars. They are simply better than yours. You used to copy a weaving machine poorly, and to this day you are doing poorly copying.
^ thats what comes out of google translate, not sure if its what your meant to say.
Im not English,
what does hitting the services mean, not sure what the weaving machine is, possibly a reference to a 3D printer? and my CAD skills may not be to your liking.