I forgot to mention one thing! I do not like using poly bushings in the front suspension except for the steering rack mounts. They make the ride too harsh in my opinion. I use high quality OEM metalastic bushes they will last for many year.
Im with you on that but I spoke to Chris Knowles from KWE engineering and he agrees with but but he did suggest that they also work on the lower wishbone without ruining the ride, your thoughts as i am doing the whole front end this year
Awesome video, saved me loads of time. Still got a few things wrong. I actually took the complete subframe off to address some rust issues on the body. The workshop manual and the parts book miss a couple of points. Obvious to some, but took me time to work out, so here goes for those about to embark on this: 1. The fulcrum shaft also has spacers, so suggest you make a note of these as you dis-assemble. In my case, after removing the rust, it turns out all the spacers were the same size. Bolt goes from the outer, through the sub frame, then the spacers, then the fulcrum shaft and then the NEW nyloc nut. 2. The upper wishbone arms in the parts manual have 4 part numbers. The actual parts have 2 cast in them. The first post i read said one thing, the next something else. I have placed the part numbers with "69" at the end, at the front and those with "70" at the end at the rear. This correlates with a mates vehicle that works well. Make up your own mind. Looks about right on the bump stops, and the bolt lengths through the ball joints work (if you have the correct nuts) 3. The nuts that are called out for the upper wishbone to upper ball joint connection and what you get from Barret's seems to be wrong. They need to be short height nyloc nuts (like the annoying bolt head) to clear the brake disc at full steering angles. To get torque on the outer half height head bolts, without rounding them off, I found putting the torque wrench on the better nut, and rapidly applying load (without a spanner on the crap half height bolt worked well. If you do it this way, apply some extra torque. Torque values are based on quasi static (slow) loading. So this dynamic approach is a bodge, however once you have rebuilt this joint a few times, the bodge will be welcome. Just remember to lift the torque wrench setting a bit (25%?) when applying dynamically. 4. The spacers for the upper ball joint have a shape to them. It doesn't really matter, but the radius end should be outboard, for a more flush (aesthetically) setup. This was pointed out to me after my 4th iteration on the crap 1/2 bolt so ignoring. The upper ball joint spacer position is allegedly critical, so hope you read the instructions and noted where they each were on disassembly. Assuming the spacers have been on there a long time, then they will have developed a nice "nesting" rust pattern based on their environment. Unless you are going to nest the various rust (wider) bits together in exactly the same manor, suggest you sand off the rust so they nest independently of the wider rust. Once you have done that, any corrosion coating that remained will be gone. Having nearly thrown my car away because I failed to get the lower wishbone bolt out, I am applying anti seize to everything, apart from tapered engineered interfaces. 5. Still in the rebuild mode, so may add some hard learnt lessons later......
When I worked on airplanes I was taught the general rule was to install bolts in “the direction of flight” so if the nut falls off the bolt will be more likely to stay. I wonder if that’s why they specify a direction? Thanks for the video
I have more years than I care to remember fixing cars (mainly Jaguars) when dealing with suspension ALWAYS use the correct tool, unfortunately I lost a work friend who thought he could do a job with a ratchet strap and paid the price.
Great video. I do have a semi-related question that I haven't really been able to find using Google. What's the difference between the upright/stub axle carrier of S1/early S2 XJ, late S2/S3 XJ, XJS early, XJS late /XJ40?
You may be surprised to learn that Maserati models from the 60’s and 70’s use a very similar ‘Alford and Alder’ front suspension set up and your video was most helpful as a guide to refurbishing my Maserati Indy’s front suspension. Really enjoy your content and presentation style.😃
wonderful video, thank you for this. so one question, I didnt see where you took the steering arm off from. I can probably use common sense however is there any precautions I should take before I take that off? Thank you
Great video and videos. I have been watching the channel for a while and I am considering buying a old Jag. I have several classic cars but they are all American.. I work on them myself. With the knowledge you are sharing I think I could work on one of these old Jags Thanks
Great video Adam, love watching your channel. I used to own 2 420g’s, have you ever considered one of those? Big old cars but one of the smoothest classic cars I’ve owned. Thanks Mark
Im in the process of rebuilding the suspension on my Mk2. The bottom pinion shaft was absolutely siezed, took a lot of heat and hammering to remove. I dropped to whole assembly to do this. Not looking forward to reinstalling the springs. I am using 6 theaded rods into the lower wishbonecand a jack.
how did the rest of your repair go? I'm getting ready to do mine, but not looking forward to it.. my main concern is bolts being seized and not having the replacement.
@gogobrent Not got around to reinstalling it yet. I have had to do a lot of welding on the chassis outriggers. Didn't really have a problem with siezed bolts, I am replacing the bolts, and they are available from Namrick in the UK.
@@gogobrentMy lower control arm pivot bolts were fully seized. I had a 40 ton hollow shaft press on one end and had to heat and beat the other end with a sledge hammer for 4 hours each side before they came out. Put liberal amounts of anit seize on your bolts when you replace them. Good luck
Adam, I was thinking about how this tool was designed. Would it have been an evolution of a previous one or would the toolmaker have been asked to make a tool that would safely remove the spring from the car? .. (Phil)
Great detailed description of how to! Not looking forward to tackling that job myself, but think I'll set aside a week and go through this time consuming job.
Brilliant Adam ! I actually would have the confidence to try this myself but l sold mine 14 years ago 🤣🤣 and the "e"type is completley different . I think this may be the longest video you'v ever done . Well done .
Excellent video and very neat timing as I'm just getting back to my rebuild. I'm stuck right now on the lower wishbone shafts, mine absolutely refuse to move. If only I could get mine to slide out so easily.
Another great video Adam. Thanks! I know filming slows everything down, then you need to edit, but I for one am very grateful that you put this video together. Your growing library of videos is supper helpful. Tomorrow I'm putting the information from your windscreen gasket replacement video to good use for example as I'm reinstalling both of mine. Cheers!
Good job! Interesting to see how it is in some ways different and in some ways very similar on the XJ40. Looks like the XJ40 has the "version 2" of this suspension setup. I did the threaded rod tool myself and even kept the spring compressed and in-place while doing the job.
Substancial amount of work in that exercise. Ifyou're going to do the job more than once, is it worthwhile having a scrap unit around to store bolts, shims, &c in their correct place and orientation? For caliper-hanging, wire coat-hangers can be helpful in place of or in addition to zip-ties. (Depending on what the local environment offers in hanging-places.
I forgot to mention one thing! I do not like using poly bushings in the front suspension except for the steering rack mounts. They make the ride too harsh in my opinion. I use high quality OEM metalastic bushes they will last for many year.
Well, they only last if the engine isn't leaking lots of oil all over them!
Im with you on that but I spoke to Chris Knowles from KWE engineering and he agrees with but but he did suggest that they also work on the lower wishbone without ruining the ride, your thoughts as i am doing the whole front end this year
Awesome video, saved me loads of time. Still got a few things wrong. I actually took the complete subframe off to address some rust issues on the body. The workshop manual and the parts book miss a couple of points. Obvious to some, but took me time to work out, so here goes for those about to embark on this:
1. The fulcrum shaft also has spacers, so suggest you make a note of these as you dis-assemble. In my case, after removing the rust, it turns out all the spacers were the same size. Bolt goes from the outer, through the sub frame, then the spacers, then the fulcrum shaft and then the NEW nyloc nut.
2. The upper wishbone arms in the parts manual have 4 part numbers. The actual parts have 2 cast in them. The first post i read said one thing, the next something else. I have placed the part numbers with "69" at the end, at the front and those with "70" at the end at the rear. This correlates with a mates vehicle that works well. Make up your own mind. Looks about right on the bump stops, and the bolt lengths through the ball joints work (if you have the correct nuts)
3. The nuts that are called out for the upper wishbone to upper ball joint connection and what you get from Barret's seems to be wrong. They need to be short height nyloc nuts (like the annoying bolt head) to clear the brake disc at full steering angles. To get torque on the outer half height head bolts, without rounding them off, I found putting the torque wrench on the better nut, and rapidly applying load (without a spanner on the crap half height bolt worked well. If you do it this way, apply some extra torque. Torque values are based on quasi static (slow) loading. So this dynamic approach is a bodge, however once you have rebuilt this joint a few times, the bodge will be welcome. Just remember to lift the torque wrench setting a bit (25%?) when applying dynamically.
4. The spacers for the upper ball joint have a shape to them. It doesn't really matter, but the radius end should be outboard, for a more flush (aesthetically) setup. This was pointed out to me after my 4th iteration on the crap 1/2 bolt so ignoring. The upper ball joint spacer position is allegedly critical, so hope you read the instructions and noted where they each were on disassembly. Assuming the spacers have been on there a long time, then they will have developed a nice "nesting" rust pattern based on their environment. Unless you are going to nest the various rust (wider) bits together in exactly the same manor, suggest you sand off the rust so they nest independently of the wider rust. Once you have done that, any corrosion coating that remained will be gone. Having nearly thrown my car away because I failed to get the lower wishbone bolt out, I am applying anti seize to everything, apart from tapered engineered interfaces.
5. Still in the rebuild mode, so may add some hard learnt lessons later......
It's easy to see how much effort goes into these videos. Great work as always and very informative! - Adriano
Thank you very much Adriano! Much appreciated 😊
When I worked on airplanes I was taught the general rule was to install bolts in “the direction of flight” so if the nut falls off the bolt will be more likely to stay. I wonder if that’s why they specify a direction? Thanks for the video
I have more years than I care to remember fixing cars (mainly Jaguars) when dealing with suspension ALWAYS use the correct tool, unfortunately I lost a work friend who thought he could do a job with a ratchet strap and paid the price.
You use zipties to suspend the the caliper etc, I use a strong piece of braided rope that way it can be reused and cheaper.
brilliant video...GN
Great video. I do have a semi-related question that I haven't really been able to find using Google. What's the difference between the upright/stub axle carrier of S1/early S2 XJ, late S2/S3 XJ, XJS early, XJS late /XJ40?
You may be surprised to learn that Maserati models from the 60’s and 70’s use a very similar ‘Alford and Alder’ front suspension set up and your video was most helpful as a guide to refurbishing my Maserati Indy’s front suspension. Really enjoy your content and presentation style.😃
wonderful video, thank you for this. so one question, I didnt see where you took the steering arm off from. I can probably use common sense however is there any precautions I should take before I take that off? Thank you
What's your source for the Metalastic bushes?
Use a four pound sledge shorthandle hammer
Thank you for sharing your knwoledge!!! I didn't dare to work in my Daimler Double Six till I've found your channel.
another great video. thanks.
Love your videos man! Rebuilding my HD8s right now. Also yeah primrose yellow!
Thank you!
Thanks for the niet video
Very extensive instruction video, thanks for all the work that it took !😊
like 150
Really enjoyed that. Love the technical videos. Always some good tips.
I’m glad you enjoyed it!
Great video and videos. I have been watching the channel for a while and I am considering buying a old Jag. I have several classic cars but they are all American.. I work on them myself. With the knowledge you are sharing I think I could work on one of these old Jags Thanks
Great video Adam, love watching your channel. I used to own 2 420g’s, have you ever considered one of those? Big old cars but one of the smoothest classic cars I’ve owned. Thanks Mark
Im in the process of rebuilding the suspension on my Mk2. The bottom pinion shaft was absolutely siezed, took a lot of heat and hammering to remove. I dropped to whole assembly to do this. Not looking forward to reinstalling the springs. I am using 6 theaded rods into the lower wishbonecand a jack.
how did the rest of your repair go? I'm getting ready to do mine, but not looking forward to it.. my main concern is bolts being seized and not having the replacement.
@gogobrent Not got around to reinstalling it yet. I have had to do a lot of welding on the chassis outriggers. Didn't really have a problem with siezed bolts, I am replacing the bolts, and they are available from Namrick in the UK.
@@gogobrentMy lower control arm pivot bolts were fully seized. I had a 40 ton hollow shaft press on one end and had to heat and beat the other end with a sledge hammer for 4 hours each side before they came out. Put liberal amounts of anit seize on your bolts when you replace them. Good luck
Adam, I was thinking about how this tool was designed. Would it have been an evolution of a previous one or would the toolmaker have been asked to make a tool that would safely remove the spring from the car? .. (Phil)
Great detailed description of how to! Not looking forward to tackling that job myself, but think I'll set aside a week and go through this time consuming job.
Brilliant Adam ! I actually would have the confidence to try this myself but l sold mine 14 years ago 🤣🤣 and the "e"type is completley different . I think this may be the longest video you'v ever done . Well done .
Perfect timing for this - I need to do the same on my DD6 - about to share the vid on my FB group - thanks Adam!
Excellent video and very neat timing as I'm just getting back to my rebuild. I'm stuck right now on the lower wishbone shafts, mine absolutely refuse to move. If only I could get mine to slide out so easily.
Another great video Adam. Thanks! I know filming slows everything down, then you need to edit, but I for one am very grateful that you put this video together. Your growing library of videos is supper helpful. Tomorrow I'm putting the information from your windscreen gasket replacement video to good use for example as I'm reinstalling both of mine. Cheers!
Good job! Interesting to see how it is in some ways different and in some ways very similar on the XJ40. Looks like the XJ40 has the "version 2" of this suspension setup. I did the threaded rod tool myself and even kept the spring compressed and in-place while doing the job.
Another great video!
Thank you so much Adam. As a S3 XJ 6 owner, this is most useful
Great video! A lot of useful information you provided, thanks Adam! That Jaguar tool must make it a lot easier.
Thanks the video Adam, very helpful.
Nice work Adam, Ive done it a few times but still fun to watch.
Thanks Adam, I appreciate your efforts to show us how to.
Amazing video Adam. Thank you 🙏
It is so joyful to see your videos and to hear the reason why doing it this or that way, får väl snart sälja Range Rovern och köpa en Jag.
Substancial amount of work in that exercise. Ifyou're going to do the job more than once, is it worthwhile having a scrap unit around to store bolts, shims, &c in their correct place and orientation?
For caliper-hanging, wire coat-hangers can be helpful in place of or in addition to zip-ties. (Depending on what the local environment offers in hanging-places.
Honestly it’s not that many bolts and parts. It’s pretty easy to keep track of them.
Great tip with the coat hanger!
Really enjoyed this video JMD
Merci pour votre vidéo !
Awesome video!
Thank's alot, great job, please don't stop doing videos about jags🤝🏻🫡
Glad you enjoyed it!