I'm glad what someone who told me what it's hard to find any vesc controllers over 20s was been dramatically wrong. It would be nice if VESC can communicate with ANT.
Look forward to your next video and maybe you can review the motor of a METACYCLE and recommend a good controller upgrade for it as well. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge with us all.
Sorry this is totally off topic but you gave me lots of advice in the past which really helped and im really hoping you can help me get back on the road once again 🙏🏻 I have a diy ebike with a Unit Pack Power 52v 14s4p 21700 battery. With unknown cheap china bluetooth bms (xiaoxiang app) After following your charging advice for 18+ months my battery's health was looking good all things considered. It charged to 58.4v even after 18 months. Then the bluetooth bms stopped connecting to the app one day. Battery life started declining. Battery seemed to drain quicker. Plus the voltage sag under load got worse over about the last 4 months. I started getting complete power cutoffs under load. At (resting)52v it dropped to 46v under load. At first it would return power almost as soon as i let off throttle. Then cut offs became more frequent and required switching off at the key and at battery to 'reset'? It before it would switch back on and show 52v again. This rapidly got worse to where it would cut out under full throttle even if the battery was showing 57v. Even feathering the throttle gently started to cause cut outs. To the point where switching off and on didnt work and only plugging into the charger would allow me to switch the bike on again. Now there appears to be no power when i turn the key (volt meter built into throttle stays blank) plus the charger doesnt start charging when plug it in, and this doesnt show any voltage on the throttle V meter. Its like its totally dead. But i suspect its the bms rather than any bad cells and hope you can confirm. Couple of symptoms: Today while switching key and battery off/on and plugging charger in and out trying to trigger some sort of life.... I heard what i assume was the BMS Beeping for the 1st time ever. 5 short beeps. I turned the key on and got no power but got 1 long 3sec+ beep. There is a 4 LED battery life 'meter' built into the battery case and when i press this it barely lights up the 1st red light indicating a completely dead Battery BUT when i plug a multimeter into the charge port of the battery it shows 56.5V which sound right considering the couple mile i did since last charging. Does this sound like a bad bms or 1 or more bad cells? I really can't afford a new battery or a full re-cell and this bike is my only transport 😢 ANY help or advice would be greatly appreciated🙏🏻 Edit: I've just removed the waterproofing so I could test voltage at the xt90 connector... it's only showing 2.25V regardless of whether or not the battery is switched on
@@de-bodgery thanks for the reply, much appreciated 🙏🏻 Ok, will do 👍🏻 Any advice or do's and don'ts for opening up and working on the pack for the first time? I've opened the case once before but the cells/pack is still sealed/taped up. Thanks again 🙏🏻
@@de-bodgery After thinking about your last message and my clumsiness... I decided not to open the pack. Lost my bottle. Got an ok deal on a 52v 19.2ah battery with 4800mah 21700 LG cells. So far so good. 1 question, if you wouldn't mind giving 1 last bit of advice 🙏🏻 Manual for new battery says "full battery health" will be achieved after the first 3-5 charges... I asked manufacturer for clarification on voltages but their reply was useless and I trust your advice on charging etc more than theirs anyway tbh... They recommend charging to 100% for the first 3-5 charges but they wouldn't say what to run the battery down to before charging on those 3-5 cycles... Q: do you recommend 100% charge for the first 3-5 cycles and how low should I run the battery down before charging for those first 3-5? After this initial 3-5 I'll be going back to the 20-80 routine with occasional 100% for balancing as per your previous advice 🙏🏻 Thanks in advance 🙏🏻
@@de-bodgery I'm looking in the 110v range right now as the motor is rated for 72v stock and the QS reseller seems to think 110v should be about the max it can handle. This has me looking at the 3shul 1000 or 1400 (which actually seem somewhat available), or impatiently waiting for a new Trampa or the rumoured Tronic... I do find it slightly discouraging that most controllers seem to be targeted towards the Talaria and Surron crowd and worry that they may thermal throttle a little quick running a QS180. Which way would you lean between a shul and whatevers coming down the pipe? Or perhaps I've missed another suitable VESC controller?
@@SavageThrash QS180 is a big motor...more motor than the Tronic 750 can handle. There are 2 controllers from Tronic coming that will be more powerful...the 1000 and 2000, but they are not out yet. Probably end of this year or early 2024 before we see those! I have seen both myself and they are coming along nicely! SHUL controllers do exist now and are for sale. That's a very viable option. Trampa is probably never going to make a controller that works higher than 100v max. I only know of 2 options that are designed to fit a Surron that are VESC. X9000 and STR500 are both made to fit this form factor and of course both are 100v max controllers. The best bet for right now is SHUL, but Tronic will be delivering some great stuff very soon too! I don't know of anyone else that is developing controllers that operate in "over 100v" range that is VESC.
@@de-bodgery I appreciate you taking the time. I'll keep working away on the rest of the bike and wait to see what develops over the next couple months. Thanks again and I'm looking forward to your review of the new stuff coming down the pipe!
@@de-bodgeryI have a blown CL1000 I would donate. My buddy didn't precharge properly and killed it. It's potted inside though and extremely tough to get apart. Far too difficult to take apart without totally destroying everything inside imo.
@@macauleyc64 I miss stuff too! Shul has been around for a few years now. They are one of 2 companies making 150v VESC controllers that you can actually buy.
So would it be a bad idea to run a Tronic 750 or 3Shul CL1000 at 144V? It's a lifepo4 pack so it really won't spend much time at 144V and will be around 128V through most of the discharge curve (40S). I think it could be a problem if I had a fully charged pack and I did some regen breaking. Maybe that would push the pack over 150V. Maybe I should wait for some higher voltage VESC stuff to come out.
This is a bad idea. 131v is OK, but you want 144v. Thats going to be problematic at best! It probably won't matter if you were running at 144v for 5 minutes or a day. Probably both would blow the controller.
hey man kinda off topic but any update on the Dualtron City VESC build? IMO an update all Dualtrons need but uh would love to see it in action or any updates
Sorry this is off topic. Have you reviewed cyclone's 18kw or 23kw motor. I have the 18kw and I was wondering if there was any way to make it go faster. Would rewinding it with thicker wires work? Also would it be possible to add water cooling so it could handle more power?
Never seen one...don't have an opinion about it and don't know anything about these motors. Also, you can look through my videos and see for yourself what I've covered so far. When you say "go faster", I assume you mean more motor RPM's? Depending on your controller, they support feild weakening better or worser. VESC, ASI and Nucular which are all full featured FOC controllers have pretty good support for this. Basic FOC controllers such as Votol, fardriver or KO will do less well at FW. Anyway, FW is the simplest way to get more motor RPM...if your controller supports it! Beyond that, you have more complicated solutions such as higher pack voltage. This may also require other changes like a DC-DC converter and higher voltage controller. Another option is a motor rewind for a higher Kv. This will also free up space on the stator for more copper strands in parallel which will make the motor more powerful. Thicker strands may be helpful, but up to a point. Water cooling is possible with any inrunner. You can add copper tubing between all the fins and tie it together to make a continuous loop. Thermal glue would be best for securing the tubing to the outside of the motor. Any PC cooling radiator and pump will work for circulating coolant around the motor
@@de-bodgery for the stuff that I do that’s way too high i’m looking for something particular like I said in my first comment seems like it’s hard to find anything like that for what I’m doing so far the Castle xlx2 is the best
@@de-bodgery it says only 8S - 30S Battery (24V to 126V) so it can't run 2s 7.4v that's why I was saying that I'm looking for a 1000A continuous high kv 100000k rpm and can run on 2s 7.4v
I'm not sure where you are getting that from. I pretty clearly state 32S or 131v. After reading your comment, I watched my own video just to be sure I didn't say something stupid and I don't state anywhere running over 32S or 131v.
I'm glad what someone who told me what it's hard to find any vesc controllers over 20s was been dramatically wrong. It would be nice if VESC can communicate with ANT.
Look forward to your next video and maybe you can review the motor of a METACYCLE and recommend a good controller upgrade for it as well. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge with us all.
Been a bit since I made any content!
Vesc the world!
👍
I love what you are working on Doc - will you be offering a service to rewind a TP128 to play nice with 130v?
yeah...why not?
Sorry this is totally off topic but you gave me lots of advice in the past which really helped and im really hoping you can help me get back on the road once again 🙏🏻
I have a diy ebike with a Unit Pack Power 52v 14s4p 21700 battery. With unknown cheap china bluetooth bms (xiaoxiang app)
After following your charging advice for 18+ months my battery's health was looking good all things considered. It charged to 58.4v even after 18 months.
Then the bluetooth bms stopped connecting to the app one day.
Battery life started declining. Battery seemed to drain quicker. Plus the voltage sag under load got worse over about the last 4 months.
I started getting complete power cutoffs under load. At (resting)52v it dropped to 46v under load.
At first it would return power almost as soon as i let off throttle.
Then cut offs became more frequent and required switching off at the key and at battery to 'reset'? It before it would switch back on and show 52v again.
This rapidly got worse to where it would cut out under full throttle even if the battery was showing 57v. Even feathering the throttle gently started to cause cut outs. To the point where switching off and on didnt work and only plugging into the charger would allow me to switch the bike on again.
Now there appears to be no power when i turn the key (volt meter built into throttle stays blank) plus the charger doesnt start charging when plug it in, and this doesnt show any voltage on the throttle V meter. Its like its totally dead.
But i suspect its the bms rather than any bad cells and hope you can confirm.
Couple of symptoms:
Today while switching key and battery off/on and plugging charger in and out trying to trigger some sort of life....
I heard what i assume was the BMS Beeping for the 1st time ever. 5 short beeps. I turned the key on and got no power but got 1 long 3sec+ beep.
There is a 4 LED battery life 'meter' built into the battery case and when i press this it barely lights up the 1st red light indicating a completely dead Battery BUT when i plug a multimeter into the charge port of the battery it shows 56.5V which sound right considering the couple mile i did since last charging.
Does this sound like a bad bms or 1 or more bad cells? I really can't afford a new battery or a full re-cell and this bike is my only transport 😢
ANY help or advice would be greatly appreciated🙏🏻
Edit: I've just removed the waterproofing so I could test voltage at the xt90 connector... it's only showing 2.25V regardless of whether or not the battery is switched on
Check your cells directly. See if they are balanced. See if they hold charge directly.
@@de-bodgery thanks for the reply, much appreciated 🙏🏻
Ok, will do 👍🏻
Any advice or do's and don'ts for opening up and working on the pack for the first time?
I've opened the case once before but the cells/pack is still sealed/taped up.
Thanks again 🙏🏻
@@thesweeney80 Don't short things together.
@@de-bodgery 😂👍🏻 noted. Thanks 😂👍🏻 I'll open it up later. Thanks
@@de-bodgery After thinking about your last message and my clumsiness... I decided not to open the pack. Lost my bottle.
Got an ok deal on a 52v 19.2ah battery with 4800mah 21700 LG cells. So far so good.
1 question, if you wouldn't mind giving 1 last bit of advice 🙏🏻
Manual for new battery says "full battery health" will be achieved after the first 3-5 charges... I asked manufacturer for clarification on voltages but their reply was useless and I trust your advice on charging etc more than theirs anyway tbh...
They recommend charging to 100% for the first 3-5 charges but they wouldn't say what to run the battery down to before charging on those 3-5 cycles...
Q: do you recommend 100% charge for the first 3-5 cycles and how low should I run the battery down before charging for those first 3-5?
After this initial 3-5 I'll be going back to the 20-80 routine with occasional 100% for balancing as per your previous advice 🙏🏻
Thanks in advance 🙏🏻
Please can you tell me how much the ESC weighs without cables? Thank in advanced
Seems like a few new controllers are coming down the pipe right now. Looking forward to a qs180 build with one of these or the new Trampa
Can't say much, but there's a 2000pa, 150v controller coming soon. There's also some 200v and 250v controllers in design right now too.
@@de-bodgery I'm looking in the 110v range right now as the motor is rated for 72v stock and the QS reseller seems to think 110v should be about the max it can handle. This has me looking at the 3shul 1000 or 1400 (which actually seem somewhat available), or impatiently waiting for a new Trampa or the rumoured Tronic... I do find it slightly discouraging that most controllers seem to be targeted towards the Talaria and Surron crowd and worry that they may thermal throttle a little quick running a QS180.
Which way would you lean between a shul and whatevers coming down the pipe? Or perhaps I've missed another suitable VESC controller?
@@SavageThrash QS180 is a big motor...more motor than the Tronic 750 can handle. There are 2 controllers from Tronic coming that will be more powerful...the 1000 and 2000, but they are not out yet. Probably end of this year or early 2024 before we see those! I have seen both myself and they are coming along nicely! SHUL controllers do exist now and are for sale. That's a very viable option. Trampa is probably never going to make a controller that works higher than 100v max. I only know of 2 options that are designed to fit a Surron that are VESC. X9000 and STR500 are both made to fit this form factor and of course both are 100v max controllers. The best bet for right now is SHUL, but Tronic will be delivering some great stuff very soon too! I don't know of anyone else that is developing controllers that operate in "over 100v" range that is VESC.
@@de-bodgery I appreciate you taking the time. I'll keep working away on the rest of the bike and wait to see what develops over the next couple months. Thanks again and I'm looking forward to your review of the new stuff coming down the pipe!
i would love to see a 3shul controller review!
Yes me too
@@de-bodgeryI have a blown CL1000 I would donate. My buddy didn't precharge properly and killed it. It's potted inside though and extremely tough to get apart. Far too difficult to take apart without totally destroying everything inside imo.
@@brycelarson3347 PM me on Facebook. I'd love to give it a try and lots of people have asked for SHUL tear downs. Look me up please...Richard Gumfaw.
What's these 3shul I'm just seeing people talk about, first time Iv seen them was last week but not spec ect Mentioned
@@macauleyc64 I miss stuff too! Shul has been around for a few years now. They are one of 2 companies making 150v VESC controllers that you can actually buy.
So would it be a bad idea to run a Tronic 750 or 3Shul CL1000 at 144V? It's a lifepo4 pack so it really won't spend much time at 144V and will be around 128V through most of the discharge curve (40S).
I think it could be a problem if I had a fully charged pack and I did some regen breaking. Maybe that would push the pack over 150V.
Maybe I should wait for some higher voltage VESC stuff to come out.
This is a bad idea. 131v is OK, but you want 144v. Thats going to be problematic at best! It probably won't matter if you were running at 144v for 5 minutes or a day. Probably both would blow the controller.
hey man kinda off topic but any update on the Dualtron City VESC build?
IMO an update all Dualtrons need but uh
would love to see it in action or any updates
I know! Been back burnered for a loooooong time now!
Sorry this is off topic. Have you reviewed cyclone's 18kw or 23kw motor. I have the 18kw and I was wondering if there was any way to make it go faster. Would rewinding it with thicker wires work? Also would it be possible to add water cooling so it could handle more power?
Never seen one...don't have an opinion about it and don't know anything about these motors. Also, you can look through my videos and see for yourself what I've covered so far. When you say "go faster", I assume you mean more motor RPM's? Depending on your controller, they support feild weakening better or worser. VESC, ASI and Nucular which are all full featured FOC controllers have pretty good support for this. Basic FOC controllers such as Votol, fardriver or KO will do less well at FW. Anyway, FW is the simplest way to get more motor RPM...if your controller supports it! Beyond that, you have more complicated solutions such as higher pack voltage. This may also require other changes like a DC-DC converter and higher voltage controller. Another option is a motor rewind for a higher Kv. This will also free up space on the stator for more copper strands in parallel which will make the motor more powerful. Thicker strands may be helpful, but up to a point. Water cooling is possible with any inrunner. You can add copper tubing between all the fins and tie it together to make a continuous loop. Thermal glue would be best for securing the tubing to the outside of the motor. Any PC cooling radiator and pump will work for circulating coolant around the motor
Ok thank you
I saw your tp 128 group buy video. I was wondering if you provided services for other motors if I send them to you?
@@widemanxan Hit me up on facebook: Richard Gumfaw
I want this for my extreme bull k6
Get one!
What kind of vehicle would this typically go on?
What do you want to use it on? Bike, motorcycle, small car, riding mower, 4 wheeler ATV, boat, wake board???
I want to put this on my ultra bee with 86v 24s battery
Would love a ESC that’s 1000 amp continuous and able to run High KV 90-100k rpm in capable to run 2s - 6s
Tat exists in 100v and 131v
@@de-bodgery for the stuff that I do that’s way too high i’m looking for something particular like I said in my first comment seems like it’s hard to find anything like that for what I’m doing so far the Castle xlx2 is the best
@@93jdmmike Just beasue that is their max voltage doesn't mean you have to run them there!
@@de-bodgery ill look in to it to see it run on 2s 7v or 3s 11v
@@de-bodgery it says only 8S - 30S Battery (24V to 126V) so it can't run 2s 7.4v that's why I was saying that I'm looking for a 1000A continuous high kv 100000k rpm and can run on 2s 7.4v
Do you mean to tell me you can run these on a 35s pack? 35s fully charged is 147v
I'm not sure where you are getting that from. I pretty clearly state 32S or 131v. After reading your comment, I watched my own video just to be sure I didn't say something stupid and I don't state anywhere running over 32S or 131v.
@de-bodgery no you didn't say over 32s but you mentioned 150v inside that's why I thought maybe it's possible
@@maarkkkm I've covered this many times that you can't run at the maximum ratings of the parts and that you need a margin of safety so they don't die.
I need your help.
Richard Gumfaw...PM me on facebook
Awesome video brother how do we contact you on facebook
Richard Gumfaw on Facebook
Prices of these controllers would be beneficial to people, not everyone has a lot of money 🥹
Go look at the Tronic web site.