I wish more people designed universal stuff that could be combined in a slicer. Like imagine this but at like 10-20% scale. Where you download some box you like, download some hinges you like, and then a latch like this.
Thanks for this, I downloaded the Pumkin and started to put it togeather and was having issues until i found this video. Your work is great keep up the great work. I'll try some more of the boxes i have a idea for a top must first have to do a trial. I'll keep you informed!!
Awesome design! I will be printing this out when I have a little more time and plan to uploade my box (or boxes, since I know my son will want one too, lol) when it's complete. 😁🤙🏼
So glad I found your designs and channel! You've designed some great stuff, can't wait to see what else you come up with! Do you do any finishing work on your prints? Their surfaces look so smooth!
Thank you, I’m glad you’re enjoying the designs! I’m rather lazy when it comes to print finishing. I just print slowly and try to use good filament on the prints I know I’m going to show off. Test prints are in cheaper filament and don’t tend to look as good. I also try to use filament up as soon as I open it - so it doesn’t pull in humidity and degrade. Finally, I use direct drive printers. Sure, they can have printing artifacts around sharp corners, especially at higher speeds, but are otherwise very good at feeding filament consistently. Video and good lighting hides some imperfections. if I held a strong light against the side of a print, you’d see every flaw.
The glue in this video is super strong - and really helps the mechanism stay in place! There’s always pros and cons with designing for glue. Many people won’t print a design that requires glue due to mess or concerns with toxicity. So I try to make it optional when I can.
I can’t get the gear and spring together. I know you said it’s a tight fit, but looking at the piece on the spring, it’s visibly bigger than hole in gear. I printed gear twice just in case one was messed up, but it just won’t fit. Any thoughts?
In severe cases (lots of over extrusion or elephant's foot), you may need to do some post-print cleanup. I'd try using an X-Acto knife to open up the hold in the gear a little. There's a very good chance that only the entrance of the hole is too small. I will be releasing a new combined Gear + Spring part in a few weeks, but I think you can get your existing prints to work. Good luck!
That looks really cool! And the fact that it's a hexagon is splendid as well-- my favorite shape! I especially love the honeycomb topper. Have you considered a version with latches that push out against the inside of the base to lock, and pull in to release, so that they're invisible from the outside?
Glad you like the design! Yes, hexagons for everything! Check out this remix by Gerald Tielke on Thingiverse that does exactly that! www.thingiverse.com/thing:5025595 They also did the same thing for the cylinder and pumpkin twist lock containers! www.thingiverse.com/gtielke/designs
@@3DPrinty FABULOUS. Actually, the thing that got me on your channel in the first place was the pumpkin box, cause I saw it while on thingiverse, about to search for a completely unrelated thing. And the organic shape just felt a little more awkward to have the visible latches than a geometric one, so I'm glad for hidden latches on that one in particular.
@@3DPrinty I am currently printing out a spring. It should be done in a few minutes. :D Then, while other pieces are printing, I'm going to play with the spring. I was wondering about the direction of it, and how much it matters whether the spring spirals in clockwise or counterclockwise, so I'm going to experiment and find out! Even if that's just by twisting it with my fingers without any other pieces and seeing how much force it has.
I've done the Tardis and Adalinda on an embossed hexagonal box both are fabulous. I'm now doing Printables Twist Lock Trick box (square) however it shows a latch and a long latch, how do I know which one to use?
Both will work, but the long latch is more secure in the long run (especially if your spring starts getting a little weak). The short latch is good if you prefer a lid you can just press on.
Could you please update the links? It appears that you moved to prusaprinters and your links to thingiverse no longer work. I found your stuff again, but it took a bit of searching.
Thanks for the heads up! I’ve been migrating tons of projects and updating hundreds of links ever since my designs were removed (by Thingiverse, not by me). In the rush, I may have missed a few places. The description has now been updated with links to both Prusa Printers and Thangs, so you can use whichever site your prefer. The statue topper will be available soon - since it’s a remix. I need to copy it over separately with a different license.
Yes! All required files are under the main project here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4927585/files If you're seeing one of the remixes, it'll only include the parts that are different (different topper, different base, etc.) Happy printing!
so i tried to make the zelda box and it messed up on me... the topper is crooked and the gear is off by a notch... how do i fix this? did it print out wrong? correction: i got the gear in proper but now the spring wont go in right if at all... its crooked i can try without the spring perhaps? should i glue the spring to the cap to avoid a disconnection issue?
Sorry to hear about the trouble. You have several options. 1. the spring is optional, as long as you glue the topper onto the gear tight enough that it'll really hold the sliding latches. You'll lose the "springy" feel, of course, but it can work. 2. If you use the spring, which I consider a strong recommendation, definitely glue it in. I add glue to the 3 edges of the spring that do not touch the sliding latches. If you use liquid super glue, you can put the spring in first and then just squeeze some drops into the gap - it'll soak the liquid glue right up. If the spring is really hard to fit in, try trimming around the edge with either a deburring tool or X-Acto knife. I suspect there is a tiny bit of elephant's foot (squish) that's making the spring slightly too big on the bottom few layers. If the topper is still crooked, be sure to pre-tension the spring by 1 notch. The design assumes that the spring is always pulling in - even when the latches are fully closed. Good luck!
@@3DPrinty I glued the spring into place which mostly fixed it! Thank you! I love the box! Do you have other interesting mechanisms? How do you make your models?
@@3DPrinty I also tried printing the sword and for some reason the bottom is off kilter… like it’s at an outward angle. It failed twice so far and I was wondering if you can make an updated version where the sword removes from its base?
@@3DPrinty when i try to print the sword it comes out thin and stringy (this is my first print im sorry if the solutions are well known...) the first time it got past the first layer the sides lifted up. i leveled the bed over and over again to see if that was the issue. i changed the temperature of the bed higher (failed) then lower (failed again) im currently trying again to see if maybe i can figure it out. im using a voxelab aries and the program im using is the voxelmaker program. it has no supports on the file either so im hoping that doesnt auto fail it when it gets to that point. does it auto add the supports? do i have to manually add them?
Unfortunately, the sword definitely needs supports - it's one of the more difficult models to print I've posted. I'm not sure how that specific slicer works, but usually you need to turn auto-generate supports on - it's rarely enabled by default. From there, you'll probably have additional options to try out - like how much space is left between the supports and the model and how dense the support material is. I actually rarely print with supports, so the sword you see in the video is my second try - the first was overly supported. In brief, it's going to be tricky, but also a good challenge for learning how to generate supports. I hope that helps!
For my prints I used: - 3 perimeters - 0.2mm layer heights - standard PLA If you can detail in what way it isn't working, I can possibly provide some other tips. For example, is it failing to stick? Or is it printing okay but the spring is too weak?
Not stupid at all! I haven't seen a resin print of this YET, although people have asked. I think it'll largely come down to what resin you use. The spring must be flexible and the latches and latch hooks can't be brittle - or it'll be a lovely box that only opens once.
The swirly gear mechanism is so visually cool looking in itself, might be neat to see a large lid where the swirl is featured on top!
Good idea! I do plan on releasing at couple additional toppers, and that could be one of them.
I wish more people designed universal stuff that could be combined in a slicer. Like imagine this but at like 10-20% scale. Where you download some box you like, download some hinges you like, and then a latch like this.
True! I might revisit this sometime as an OpenSCAD project - which would make it easier to work with other things!
thanks for sharing. I've made the barrel cooper's and the toggly fidget. I'll make this one and the treasure chest this month. Thanks again
Happy to share it! Thanks for following my work!
Thank you all the great designs... I really appreciate your work... Happy New Year...
Thanks for this, I downloaded the Pumkin and started to put it togeather and was having issues until i found this video.
Your work is great keep up the great work. I'll try some more of the boxes i have a idea for a top must first have to do a trial.
I'll keep you informed!!
I'm glad the video helped and I'm looking forward to seeing your custom topper idea!
Definitely will be printing this
Great! It’s one of my faster designs to print - everything in the video was printed in 3 days!
That's a very cool design!!!! Thank you for sharing you idea and stl for this!!!
Awesome design! I will be printing this out when I have a little more time and plan to uploade my box (or boxes, since I know my son will want one too, lol) when it's complete. 😁🤙🏼
That’s great I hope you and your son have fun picking parts for your copies. Happy printing!
@@3DPrinty I'm really looking forward to this twist lock one now, I have already printed your rolling storage box and Absolutely LOVE it! 😁👍🏼
The rolling storage box is probably more useful, but this is a far easier (and faster) print!
@@3DPrinty I love fast and easy prints, but the rooling box has been pretty useful for me and the design is also really Slick! 😎 👍🏼
Love your stuff!
Thanks so much! More designs on the way!
I have made so many of these.
Awesome! I’m glad you like the designs!
So glad I found your designs and channel! You've designed some great stuff, can't wait to see what else you come up with! Do you do any finishing work on your prints? Their surfaces look so smooth!
Thank you, I’m glad you’re enjoying the designs!
I’m rather lazy when it comes to print finishing. I just print slowly and try to use good filament on the prints I know I’m going to show off. Test prints are in cheaper filament and don’t tend to look as good. I also try to use filament up as soon as I open it - so it doesn’t pull in humidity and degrade. Finally, I use direct drive printers. Sure, they can have printing artifacts around sharp corners, especially at higher speeds, but are otherwise very good at feeding filament consistently.
Video and good lighting hides some imperfections. if I held a strong light against the side of a print, you’d see every flaw.
More people should use glue as a fastener. There’s so much stuff that it would work better for than adding clips or bolts
The glue in this video is super strong - and really helps the mechanism stay in place!
There’s always pros and cons with designing for glue. Many people won’t print a design that requires glue due to mess or concerns with toxicity. So I try to make it optional when I can.
I can’t get the gear and spring together. I know you said it’s a tight fit, but looking at the piece on the spring, it’s visibly bigger than hole in gear. I printed gear twice just in case one was messed up, but it just won’t fit.
Any thoughts?
In severe cases (lots of over extrusion or elephant's foot), you may need to do some post-print cleanup. I'd try using an X-Acto knife to open up the hold in the gear a little. There's a very good chance that only the entrance of the hole is too small.
I will be releasing a new combined Gear + Spring part in a few weeks, but I think you can get your existing prints to work. Good luck!
That looks really cool! And the fact that it's a hexagon is splendid as well-- my favorite shape! I especially love the honeycomb topper.
Have you considered a version with latches that push out against the inside of the base to lock, and pull in to release, so that they're invisible from the outside?
Glad you like the design! Yes, hexagons for everything!
Check out this remix by Gerald Tielke on Thingiverse that does exactly that!
www.thingiverse.com/thing:5025595
They also did the same thing for the cylinder and pumpkin twist lock containers!
www.thingiverse.com/gtielke/designs
@@3DPrinty FABULOUS.
Actually, the thing that got me on your channel in the first place was the pumpkin box, cause I saw it while on thingiverse, about to search for a completely unrelated thing. And the organic shape just felt a little more awkward to have the visible latches than a geometric one, so I'm glad for hidden latches on that one in particular.
@@3DPrinty I am currently printing out a spring. It should be done in a few minutes. :D Then, while other pieces are printing, I'm going to play with the spring. I was wondering about the direction of it, and how much it matters whether the spring spirals in clockwise or counterclockwise, so I'm going to experiment and find out! Even if that's just by twisting it with my fingers without any other pieces and seeing how much force it has.
This is awesome, The next viral print lol?
That'd be amazing! Let's find out: www.tiktok.com/@3d_printy/video/6994559671478652166
I had to attach the gear and spring with a mallet. And pretension the spring with a plier. Too difficult by hand.
Glad to hear you were able to work around it, even if the parts came out too tight!
I've done the Tardis and Adalinda on an embossed hexagonal box both are fabulous. I'm now doing Printables Twist Lock Trick box (square) however it shows a latch and a long latch, how do I know which one to use?
Both will work, but the long latch is more secure in the long run (especially if your spring starts getting a little weak). The short latch is good if you prefer a lid you can just press on.
nice good model
Thank you! The mechanism was fun to design!
It took me a. while to figre out what the latch count was for. I was thinking, but there are only three!!
very cool
Could you please update the links? It appears that you moved to prusaprinters and your links to thingiverse no longer work. I found your stuff again, but it took a bit of searching.
Thanks for the heads up! I’ve been migrating tons of projects and updating hundreds of links ever since my designs were removed (by Thingiverse, not by me). In the rush, I may have missed a few places.
The description has now been updated with links to both Prusa Printers and Thangs, so you can use whichever site your prefer.
The statue topper will be available soon - since it’s a remix. I need to copy it over separately with a different license.
Hi is the spring and gear mechanism included in the thingiverse file, because all I can find is the box outline
Yes! All required files are under the main project here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4927585/files
If you're seeing one of the remixes, it'll only include the parts that are different (different topper, different base, etc.)
Happy printing!
@@3DPrinty ok thank you so much
Awesome!
Thanks!
so i tried to make the zelda box and it messed up on me... the topper is crooked and the gear is off by a notch... how do i fix this? did it print out wrong? correction: i got the gear in proper but now the spring wont go in right if at all... its crooked i can try without the spring perhaps? should i glue the spring to the cap to avoid a disconnection issue?
Sorry to hear about the trouble. You have several options.
1. the spring is optional, as long as you glue the topper onto the gear tight enough that it'll really hold the sliding latches. You'll lose the "springy" feel, of course, but it can work.
2. If you use the spring, which I consider a strong recommendation, definitely glue it in. I add glue to the 3 edges of the spring that do not touch the sliding latches. If you use liquid super glue, you can put the spring in first and then just squeeze some drops into the gap - it'll soak the liquid glue right up.
If the spring is really hard to fit in, try trimming around the edge with either a deburring tool or X-Acto knife. I suspect there is a tiny bit of elephant's foot (squish) that's making the spring slightly too big on the bottom few layers.
If the topper is still crooked, be sure to pre-tension the spring by 1 notch. The design assumes that the spring is always pulling in - even when the latches are fully closed.
Good luck!
@@3DPrinty I glued the spring into place which mostly fixed it! Thank you! I love the box! Do you have other interesting mechanisms? How do you make your models?
@@3DPrinty I also tried printing the sword and for some reason the bottom is off kilter… like it’s at an outward angle. It failed twice so far and I was wondering if you can make an updated version where the sword removes from its base?
@@3DPrinty when i try to print the sword it comes out thin and stringy (this is my first print im sorry if the solutions are well known...) the first time it got past the first layer the sides lifted up. i leveled the bed over and over again to see if that was the issue. i changed the temperature of the bed higher (failed) then lower (failed again) im currently trying again to see if maybe i can figure it out. im using a voxelab aries and the program im using is the voxelmaker program. it has no supports on the file either so im hoping that doesnt auto fail it when it gets to that point. does it auto add the supports? do i have to manually add them?
Unfortunately, the sword definitely needs supports - it's one of the more difficult models to print I've posted.
I'm not sure how that specific slicer works, but usually you need to turn auto-generate supports on - it's rarely enabled by default. From there, you'll probably have additional options to try out - like how much space is left between the supports and the model and how dense the support material is. I actually rarely print with supports, so the sword you see in the video is my second try - the first was overly supported.
In brief, it's going to be tricky, but also a good challenge for learning how to generate supports. I hope that helps!
Do you have settings that work best for the spring? No matter what I do I can’t get it to print good
For my prints I used:
- 3 perimeters
- 0.2mm layer heights
- standard PLA
If you can detail in what way it isn't working, I can possibly provide some other tips. For example, is it failing to stick? Or is it printing okay but the spring is too weak?
What’s a medium
👍👍👍
Right on!
Hehe, I'm actually the first comment this vid, love your stuff my dude.
Thanks, glad you like it!
I believe you are also the first person to call "first" for any video on this channel. That's as "first" as they come!
Probably a stupid question...... but can this be printed on a resin printer?
Not stupid at all! I haven't seen a resin print of this YET, although people have asked. I think it'll largely come down to what resin you use. The spring must be flexible and the latches and latch hooks can't be brittle - or it'll be a lovely box that only opens once.
Well I will give it a try! If it breaks then we know 🙂
Thanks!
Hi@@emmorton15 - did you get anywhere with a resin version of this? Would be a cool experiment, but I can't see it working with brittle resins