Classic Craftsmanship - Shaker Bench
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- Shaker style bench made with cherry wood.
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www.frankswork...
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Tried and True Varnish Oil - amzn.to/3TDkOMC
Gorgeous work. Such a refreshing channel for people who can't stand cnc's, epoxy river tables etc.
thanks man!
Fuck all that shit
Keep it simple
I almost always do the initial crosscutting of boards to rough length with a handsaw as well. I used to do it with the workbench vice like in this video. However, I never liked maneuvering big boards into the vice and then flipping them to finish the cut. It just felt like a lot of extra handling. So I made a saw bench. The top is just at or below knee height so I can lay a board on it and use my left knee as a quick clamp while I cut. When crosscutting, I don't have to stop halfway through. To make the next cut, I just take my knee off the board and slide it so the next cut line is just hanging off the bench. It can be used for ripping by hand too. Oh and since it's about knee height it's reasonable comfortable to sit on!
Love the sound and relaxed atmosphere in a handtool workshop. Can almost smell the wood :o)
I'm 60 years old, a woodworker newbie, (made a few things almost 40 years ago). I've bought some new power tools, but I would rather use handtool and work at my granddad +100 years old Swedish workbench (2 different wises with wooden threads), but my main problem is:
Haven't learned to properly sharpen my chisels and old hand planes! And therefore, I haven't used them yet.
I've watched some videos about this, also for beginners, but it's not going well for me when I try.
Better try to find a carpenter in my village who knows how to do it with a good result and has the time and desire to teach me in person.
All my best wishes to all the good people /Pia
Practice, practice, practice.
DAMHIKT
@@johnstarkie9948 Thanks you, John.
You are absolutely right! 👍
(PS: Had to google DAMHIKT!! LOL )
Thanks for actually building furniture. A lot of channels seem to focus a lot on shop furniture and tools. It’s nice to watch yours and get some inspiration.
thanks man!
I'm a slow learner! Thanks!
Beautiful bench. I made my first bench when I was 13. I used all hand tools. I started getting my first power tools when I was 28. I still prefer hand tools. I have more control and get more satisfaction from the finished project.
Whatever you said at the end should be your tagline every video from now on! You're a boss.
haha thanks man, I may just do that : P
I note that you place your metal hand planes cutting blade down on your workbench. I was taught that was a no-no to prevent damage to the blade edge that extends below the bottom surface of the tool. I learned this about 60 years ago. Regardless, you do know how to sharpen.
Yeah I heard that early on too.
It's kind of an old wives tale.
If you think about it. When planing you're plowing that blade though wood and it doesn't damage it. So why would setting it gently down in the same position do anything to it at all.
Nice and wonderful work, I wish you all the best and love 🇵🇸
I love your work ! Great inspiration! Thanks
Thanks brother!
Beautiful work and beautiful cherry! I love the grain on that top.
Question -- you woodwork like I do. Some power tools, a lot of hand tools. What do you do with all the final products of these RUclips videos? Sell them? Give them away? I'm always curious with different woodworkers online especially on RUclips whatever happens to all of these projects.
Hi Frank
I really like this sort of project that is well within the reach of folks with smaller tool kits and not so complicated that I wouldn’t even attempt it.
Frank can you do a video on how you got started wood working and learned all of these traditional methods? This is always such an interesting channel for me
got some good snipe there
Love your craftsmanship and your focus on traditional methods…I continue to be enthralled what you do.
I appreciate that Brian!
Thanks Frank for sharing. Here's something I've been doing lately on my curves for the legs. Rather than set the compass at the base, I actually set it 1" or so off of the bottom. You then end up with a portion of a curve rather than a half circle. I like the look of this.
Do you sharpen your own hand and panel saws? If so, any resources you've found useful? Or do you send them out to be sharpened - in which case, where?
There is an excellent write up on a site called "vintagesaws", it goes into great detail and was very helpful to me when I first started filing saws. It's written by Pete Taran, he's one of the lads who founded Independence Saws (later sold to Lie Nielsen, the saws are basically the same, LN jus kept makin Pete's designs)
I always recommend that write up to anyone wonderin about saw filing...... It is very daunting at first, but once you file a few saws it's actually very easy. Some will say about findin an old saw to practice on, this will need shaping not just sharpening...... It's a lot more work to shape the teeth, and it's much harder for someone who is new to it, I would recommend a maintenance sharpening to a saw you already own. This will only take a couple of licks of the file for each tooth and will get you used to it, try practice on a rougher saw if you have one, 4-5tpi is very easy to sharpen..... around 13tpi it gets harder to see what you're doing and small variations in the pressure and stroke of your file will effect the smaller teeth easier. Anything above 15tpi is a pain in the face to sharpen, try avoid a fine saw like that til you gain more confidence. If one tooth is slightly low don't worry about it, you will pick it up the next time you sharpen. If there is very slight variation in the rake or fleam of the saw, don't worry or try to file it out..... What makes hand filed saws so much nicer to use is that slight variation; similar to the way a machine cut rasp will judder or vibrate because the frequency of each tooth is perfect, a hand stitched rasp is much smoother and will not judder or vibrate because the teeth are random...... Similar concept with a saw, but only a VERY slight variation with saw teeth is acceptable. Aim for perfect, but don't chase it.
You will need saw files (like a three-square file but it also cuts on the corners. This leaves a small round in the gullet of the tooth which makes it stronger. A saw file technically has 6 cutting edges) You want the file to be slightly bigger than the depth of your tooth; with the file dropped into the gullet, slightly more than half the file should be above the tooth, if less than half the file is above the tooth you will wear the file unevenly. You will need a saw set, the old Eclipse style pliers is still plentiful on the used market and they work very well. When you gain enough confidence to file finer saws you should get another saw set, shape the plunger on this so it's very narrow....... The normal size plunger on that style of saw set is too wide for fine saws and it will push on 2 teeth instead of 1. The number on those saw sets is noting to do with tpi, it's jus a guide; for example, my 4tooth rip saw is set with the pliers on number 6, my 13tooth tenon saw is set with the pliers on number 10, my 16tooth dovetail saw is set on number 12 and the saw is lightly filed again to remove some of that set. Somax in Japan made a copy of the Eclipse style set too, they are also very good. I've used the new saw sets sold on eBay and the likes, the plunger on those is soft like a pillow and I had mushroomed it after setting about 4 saws....... The old ones are much better in my opinion and cost less too. As for files, mine are made by F. Dick (German I think) Swiss files made by Valorbe are excellent too, I've heard good things about Bahco files but have not used them myself to be able to comment on them. Filing thin spring steel is hard on files, shaping the teeth on an old saw you could kill the file on that single saw....... Normal sharpening you will get maybe about 6 sessions from a file (that's maybe 9-12 months of sharpening for me, but others mileage may differ) get yourself a couple of files in the size you need, use one for most of the work, but save one that's new or barely used for the final sharpening of your saw. A small stone of about 1k grit will be needed to adjust the set after you're done. Use a cheap stone for this, something hard; a Japanese water stone is not great coz you're gonna wear grooves in it. I use a diamond stone coz that's part of my sharpening gear for irons and chisels, but I plan to buy a small hard Arkansas stone for that job soon.
Good luck, and enjoy 😁🤙 sorry for the essay 😆🤣
yes I second what Whitty said ive used that exact resource. I do sharpen them myself, but I'm really not qualified to instruct anyone else as I dont do it perfectly or fancy and have a very rudimentary process .... all I do is simply run a flat file on the teeth to make sure all are about the same height then file the teeth with a triangular file so that the point is sharp again. Sometimes ill set the teeth prior to filing with the least amount of set that my sawset can do.
Paul Sellers also has a couple of saw sharpening videos that are great resources.
You and you're work's an inspiration, Frank. Everytime I watch a vid of yours I end back up in my woodshop within a few days. Hand tool woodworking is contagious. Thank you for keeping at it!
Thanks for continuing to watch!
Beautiful.
Gorgeous dude!
Frank love the videos and the behind the back to the trash can dunks! I would love a video of how you make your hide glue! Great content as always!!!
Great tip on chiseling the long grain when doing a mortise. I bet a lot of woodworkers don’t know that. I didn’t but after you said it seemed so obvious.
right on, thanks Gary!
You can burnish your wood by simply rubbing the plane curls onto the wood, this is why some people prefer wooden planes because they burnish the wood more
Would love to see more intricate stuff. A cupboard, a chair maybe? Love the simple hands on approach. Craftsmanship!
thanks!
How about some background. on your woodwork? Hobby? Do you resell product? Can handwork compete with machines? Can you get more $$$ for handwork? As a side note I/m guessing you're a fan of Sellers and Cosman. Oh,..do you heat your shop? What part of the country are you in? Thanx for feedback.
Best line in your video.. "this is why I do not make cutting boards" BRILLIANT.. !!! 3:09
Three thumbs up, the third is for using a hand saw.
Liked and Subscribed.
I built Shaker furniture (the real deal) professionally for 20 years.
Edit. Any "swingin" dick can make a yuppie/millennial cutting board.
It takes only 27 different types of wood, and a table saw to make one,
add all of 5 minutes of you tube hype to sell one.
It takes a craftsman to do what you are doing. Heart, not the bucks.
Really beautiful work, Frank! 😃
Amazing looking bench!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
thanks!
Thanks Frank for the beautiful project. You may have covered this already but would be interested some day in hearing about the advantages of the brown glue over the regular yellow glue.
thanks Mike!
I've been waiting for a new video, great work!
yes its been a little while, thanks for watching!
I thought my planes were/are sharp…….according to your planes mine are as dull as can be….nice work…..and may I suggest a saw bench?
Thanks for using a real saw instead of those infernal "Japanese" saw. How long did this build take in real time? I'm about a week into my 48" x 13" x 21" spruce and red oak butcher block style bench/plant stand.
Great job as always 😊.
Thank you for watching!
I notice you list the hand tools you use, but in this video you are using a power tools. Can you list those as well, specifically the power jointer? Thanks
I just love your hand tool work to make quality pieces.
thank you!
First time viewer. Biggest impression - how sharp your tools are. Every cut seemed effortless. Nicely done.
It makes such a difference having sharp tools. Early on with woodworking, I assumed that chisels were sharp enough out of the box. Big mistake, at least for the ones within my budget. Having the sharpening equipment (couple of stones and some wet and dry) and spending five minutes here and there keeping them sharp makes the most incredible difference.
My man never ceases to disappoint. Great job brother….again 💪
haha thanks man!
How did you transfer the markings for the mortise from one face to the other ?
If it’s just with a square then I’m amazed they line up so well as a pencil line thickness error would be enough to make a mess.
Love it Frank, keep it up!
A nice build with excellent process, per usual.
Great work! Can't wait to see what you do next
Top Quality work in beautiful wood.
thank you Kevin, much appreciated!
Very nice bench. I really enjoyed you taking more time explaining the steps and techniques. As someone new to this passion any help is much appreciated.
Question, your larger hand saws that you use for larger cutting/ ripping, are they a special type or just standard saws like would find at average tool stores.
Very nice work. Thanks!
thanks!
Why not use a brace and bit to remove bulk material in your mortises?
I say it every time, but your hand planes are just buttery.
and i still appreciate it every time! thanks man
Beautiful bench. Surprised you didn't put dado for legs.
Thanks Jim, I do think the dado would have been even better
Beeeeeautiful. I really like your saws - where did you find those?? I need to hit the rummage sale circuit pretty hard, don't I?
beautiful work.
thanks!
I got that same hammer
I like your videos. Thank you.
thanks!
Another great instructional video Frank! I am curious why sanding is needed after finish planing. The cherry looks so rich and warm off the hand plane.
i agree and only do if ill be using the tried and true or other straight up oil finish. not needed if I use the waterlox, shellac, or varnish type finish. Sanding burnishes the surface so it wont soak up the oil inconsistently. you can also rub vigorously with plane shaving
I really like your products
thank you!
How much do you overlap your plane by on each pass? I've been having a hard time flattening boards by going lengthwise, I usually have to use the technique where you go at 45s in both directions to get a flat surface. Whenever I try to finish by going lengthwise I end up less flat
Absolutely love your content, your videos are always a joy when they pop up
I also struggled with that and it drove me nuts. Strangely, two most basic skills are also the hardest won - sawing to a line and planing a board flat. Check out a book called Essential Woodworker by Robert Wearing. The first section of the book covers some of this stuff and has a few planing exercises that were helpful for me. Go slow with the book and really digest it because there isn't a sentence of fluff in the entire book.
@@FranksWorkbench perfect, thanks so much for the candor and recommendation!
Like from Brazil
thanks!
Great content (as always) but I have a question: how did you account for the cross/support beam’s wood movement? It looks like it would move up & down while the rest of the bench will move laterally?
Amen on the epoxy “river” tables. They are borrring
Regarding the finish, I’ve been thinking about trying to do a wash coat or two of shellac and then do the oil finish. Wonder if that would help with dry spots? I’m currently using a polymerized (heated, no driers) tung oil from Lee Valley. I like it a lot but know what you mean about getting the dry spots sometimes.
a thin cut may work, good idea to try
Good lookin' work. How long did this project take, from raw board to finish?
Very impressed with the sharpness and set up of your planes! What grit to you sharpen to?
i always finish on leather strop with green honing compound. before that either a translucent arkansas stone (black is just as good too) or a 1200 diamond stone. If using the diamond stone I strop a lot more.
Nicely done! Just wondering if you can estimate how many hours you spent on this project. I'm working on something similar and want to gauge where I stand.
thanks man! im not sure but always longer than i expect even on this project lol
It turned out awesome Frank 🤙 it always turns out awesome tho 😁 What's your opinion of the Ashley Iles chisels? Ease of sharpening and "feel" in the hand are my main concern, I'm not worried about how hard they are or how long they can hold an edge.
Thanks for the video lad 😁
great chisels, my only real point on comparison is narex. I like the Ashley iles more in terms of hand feel and they both sharpen easily. a few ferrules came loose but its an easy fix and I dont blame the tool as im sure theres a big humidity difference between the UK and Texas
@@FranksWorkbench There would be a huge difference in humidity, I'd try to glue the ferrule first if it was me, I dont like the dimple when theyve been punched.
I forgot to thank you for your tips on finishing....... that is an area that I'm seriously deficient in 😂 your pieces always look really good, that classy timeless look, partly because of design, but I reckon the finish adds to that too 🤙
Thanks Frank 😁
👍👍👍👍
Frank, how long have you been hand tool woodworking?
since college but not consistently until more recently
How do you feel about your (Baileigh?) jointer?
wouldn't buy it at todays price but at the time was only a couple hundred more than the grizzly. HOWEVER, in the 8" jointer field the Baileigh has the tallest and longest fence with an 83" long bed. that was the deciding factor for me. Even though its got straight blades, those can always be upgraded later. At the time, the Oliver was the same price and it comes standard with the helical cutterhead, but it has a smaller bed and fence which can never be changed. Unfortunately, I did just have to replace the red shut off button as it broke and that cost me $50 shipped which is kinda lame but its all just cheap asian junk on all of them. Bottom line is its a great jointer but if I were buying one today it would be a grizzly for half the cost.
@@FranksWorkbench Thanks for the write up! I'm sure I'll do another year or hand wringing and research before I actually buy anything.
Music in the shop is needed badly
Nice work Frank!!
What is the brand of your red handed marking knife?