Replacing Kitchenaid Dishwasher Pump & Motor kdtm354dss4
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- The filter in my Dishwasher went out and after a failed attempt to replace it I went all in and replaced the core pump/filter assembly of the dishwasher. Hope this video helps. Thanks for watching.
Dishwasher: kdtm354dss4
Part:
www.appliancep...
I wanted to thank you for this - saved my washer and I even jacked my door up and got it back in. The post below with how to run the diagnostic cycle is a must read AND BIG TIP - put soap on that seal so you don't have to fight it. So far so good.
To seat the part, set the first tab that is apart from the other two by the drain motor. In between the other two tabs, is a plastic handle you can pull down on. You can see it @ 6:15 left of the white box near the heating element plug. That will allow you to set the other two plugs by pulling down. ***MOST IMPORTANTLY*** ONCE YOU REPLACE ANY PART, you have to run a FULL DIAGNOSTIC CYCLE (about 23 minutes) for the control board to work correctly, otherwise you may get random problems. Mine refused to see the heater element after the motor/pump replacement. To enter the diagnostic cycle, press any three panel buttons in a row 3 times, less than a second between each. 1-2-3, 1-2-3, 1-2-3. All the panel lights will illuminate. Close the door and leave it alone. It will cycle through multiple (20 plus) diagnostic tests. When all the lights go out, the diagnostic cycle is done. If the Clean light is flashing just after closing the door and starting the diagnostic cycle, it is an error code. In mine, it was 7 flashes, a pause, then one flash (7-1). 7-1 is the heating element error code. You have to clear any error code manually by pressing Hi Temp in "Interval 20" of the diagnostic cycle. It will not clear on it's own. The easy way to do this is to start the diagnostic cycle and watch the Express wash and Prowash lights. In the first couple of minutes of the diagnostic cycle, the Prowash and Hi Temp lights will both come on. This is the Interval to press the Hi Temp button to clear the error codes. All this info is in the data sheet in the insulation behind the bottom panel. Thanks for the video and hopefully these hints will help!
Just wanted to mention that I didn't have to do a full diagnostic cycle as you mentioned in your comment. Just installed the part and it worked. This is good because for some reason I can't seem to get my model to do a diag cycle, so I would have been stuck.
Thank you! Not just for the clear and easy-to-understand step-by-step, but also the recommendation to buy the whole assembly. Didn't cost a whole lot more, and made for an easier replacement! Thank you, thank you, thank you!
Awesome Jason! Wishing you many years of leak free dish cleaning!
Good Deal, I'm working on a Kitchen Aid just like it for neighbor friends. Same experience, replaced the seal and then the rest of the unit crapped out. 1,200$ dishwasher, all plastic made parts that are important.
A little dish soap on the gaskets and hoses help them slide into place without tearing or major effort to seat. Old dishwashers were mostly all metal parts in construction, with real motors. The new all plastic stuff lasts 2-5 years if you are lucky before everything needs replaced with more plastic parts. They don't make 'em like the used to, which is a shame for what they cost new.
Thanks for posting and trailblazing, this will help a lot of people who's warranty probably just expired the week before the dishwasher turned into a floor shower. My friends tongue and groove cherry floor was ruined in the kitchen, because if the leak, which will end up costing them twice what a new dishwasher would have cost to replace the floor. He saved 1000$ instead of buying a new unit , now that can go for the new kitchen floor, which I'll probably end up doing for them.
Whirlpool/Kitchen Aid should be ashamed of themselves for selling such garbage for such a high price!
This video was extremely helpful. My Kitchenaid pump filter completely shredded itself and stopped the motor from turning. It’s been in service from new for 4.5 years and it was ran everyday. Made more sense to replace the entire assembly then piece parts. Not knowing if the motor was still good and did not want to take that chance. Thank you for the great video!
Thank you for this video! I followed it to replace my motor yesterday. Made it very easy for a 51 year old housewife! 😆
I successfully replaced my kitchenaid dishwasher motor with the help of this video. I watched a few before doing it , but this is the one I followed while I did it. Made it so easy. Excellent even if your model is slightly different. Taking before pictures and marking connections with a sharpie also helped. Highly recommend.
Thank you for this video! After a repair person said it would cost about as much to fix than to buy new, I decided to do the replacement myself and get some more life out of my dishwasher for just the cost of the part (~$250).
Hardest part of the process was getting the rubber gasket to seat deep enough. What worked for me was to grab hold of it from the underneath and pull it down after pushing from inside as much as I could. The bottom of the part has a nice plastic area, almost like a handle that was perfect to pull on (pause video at 24:22 and the handle is in the upper left corner).
Thanks for the video, I had same exact issue with the motor on same KitchenAid model and instead of paying $800+ (counting in installation and few extras like removal of old machine, nobody offers any of that for free where we live, not even Costco) for new one I just ordered this sump and circulation motor assembly and replaced it myself. Which was pretty easy after watching this video. I didn't even bother to turn the machine on its side - all the electrical connectors, the small drain pump and the optical sensor were easily accessible from the sides, only annoying part was making sure the round rubber seal would fit properly into the steel tub.
Thanks man. That was a huge help. This also works on the KDTM354DSS5 in case anyone needs to know.
Used your video to fix my exact same unit. Thank you thank you thank you! It helped me to get the third tab locked by connecting everything including the first 2 locking tabs then standing the dishwasher back up and pushing down on the motor/pump unit to easier seat the gasket. You can then lock the 3rd tab from the side since it's open. Thanks again!
Thank you. I just did the repair because of your video. I had a heck of a time seating the gasket and eventually sprayed cooking oil on the rubber and that helped a ton.
Agreed, that gasket was the worst! What worked for me was to grab hold of it from the underneath and pull it down after pushing from inside as much as I could. The bottom of the part has a nice plastic area, almost like a handle that was perfect to pull on (pause video at 24:22 and the handle is in the upper left corner).
Followed this and still had a leak. I noticed two white plastic things hanging down from underneath and one had water on it. Realized they were the underside of where the heating element goes in. In this video they are the two grey things (with the blue wire going into them). Look to the left at 15.38 minutes. Turned them using a wrench and no more leak. I didn't need to replace the pump and motor but hey I have a new system now (and I back one with parts that I took out and is still good). Short version is check this first or at minimum make sure they are tightened up when you do this job (or course take the blue wires out before turning). I have a kdtm354dss5 but it's the same as this one.
If you are an old man like me, go buy a new dishwasher, this is a big job, doesn’t just slide in and out.
Looks like the upper tray logo is still covered by a protective blue film from the factory.
Never pull on that Diverter like that once it’s starts to leak you’ll be doing this all over again stand up the dishwasher when putting in the new one so you don’t have to pull on it you push down from the inside
Would be helpful to know the part number you bought...
Thank you for the great video! It seems you have the only one that shows the bottom of this model. It seems the others are all "similar."
I have the same model as this. You mentioned in the video that you tried replacing the pump filter but it didn't fit. I just ordered filter #W11084156 for mine. Are you saying that this may not fit my pump? Or, did you order a different filter than #W11084156?
Thanks!!
Hi Mark, Looking in my email that filter is the model that I ordered and it didn't work. The flange was smaller and while I was able to install it and get the washer to do 'something', it made a racket and didn't really do a good enough job (didn't wash the uppper rack). I ultimately went with the entire pump assembly. Just be sure to pull the old filter and compare before opening that new filter.
@@nutty-cool thanks for getting back to me. This really helps a lot. I will do just that.
Ok I’m
I’m vdqft
edit this so it's not 28 minutes please