I PRINTED MY 3D CHARACTER!!
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- Learn to sculpt stylized characters here: dannymac.gumro...
In this video I finally printed my first 3D character. First I had to calibrate the printer to the resin, then prepare the model for 3D printing using Blender and Chitubox (soon Lychee!).
Instant Disney-Style Eyes for your Character!
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#elegoo #elegoosaturn #elegoosaturn2 #3dprinting #3dprinter #resinprinting
HI, I am shae, uhm, i used to watch you in highschool. now, im a softmore in college, for 3d animation. your kind of what sparked an interests in my art career, so far, and your style as well. just appreciating you from afar, my dude.
Good man! It is proper satisfying seeing your 3D models come to life. I've been printing my stuff for years and its still exciting to see how they come out! Another cool thing that I've discovered is the VR viewer in blender. It's so fun popping on the headset and exploring your work in VR!
Might just give that a go!
13:12 The resin draining hole positioning is interesting 😂
I haven't even clicked and I know what you're referring to 😂 Makes sense though doesn't it?
Hey! really love you getting the chance to print out your own projects! If these are in the same room as your sculpting you may really want to invest in getting better venting for it! The fumes are really not good for your body and will get worse over time!
Yeah, I was thinking "damn, wear a respirator." And not those which comes with the printer, get a 3M mask with ABEK filters.
Youve printed your first model.. Youre one of us now... 😁😁
Congrats Danny!
You don't have to Dynamesh, but it's not a bad practise. The reason it's worth doing is because it'll make sure there's no hollow spots inside. Intersecting meshes (multi-shell) are fine if they completely overlap.
I've been struggling to get some prints out, the object itself was made from multiple meshes and has gaps within it. To provide more details, it's an engine which has a lot of gaps inside. Any suggestion on how I can make the software not seeing those gaps there? Chitubox for example throws me a bunch of island errors due to the interior gaps
@@TheBadBone23 You could try inserting more simple shapes (cubes, spheres, etc.) inside the model to fill the gaps. It's a bit of a caveman technique but it's simple and should close the cavities.
The thing that finally made my prints consistent was always keeping it (and the resin in it) between 25 and 30 degrees celcius. I stuck a bench and the resin printer in a big grow tent with a little temperature controlled heater and thermometer. It lives on the balcony.
(The resin is also less viscous when warmer, and has an easier time running out of the drainage holes.)
congratulations on your new experience) I put my printers on the windowsill - most often it is the smoothest surface. I close the windows with cardboard boxes so that the resin does not catch fire, or I cover the printers with a factory box - it smells less. If there is a free table, I take a bubble construction level and turn the printer legs from different sides until I achieve optimal evenness. with this setup, I set the building level to the printer with the cover installed, not to the screen.
If something sticks to the bottom of the tub, you can simply light up the entire surface and pry it with a resin mixing spatula - this will cause less damage to the film than draining the resin and wiping the film every time. do not use alcohol to wipe the cotton wool in the bath - it clouds its surface.
I got an Anycubic Photon Mono X and have been working on getting a Tyrannosaurs rex model printed. So this was very encouraging seeing you go through a similar process of discovery! Those little test matrices were such a huge life saver when I found them too!
That was such a ballsy choice for your first print (the hair!), and you still did really well!
I’m glad you’re posting these now, as I’m wanting to make action figures for a friend and have never done it before :)
Just a thing to mention with some of your settings, Lifting distance was at 3mm this seems very low as the print some times may not detach from the FEP sheet when it's lifting away, this results in layers being missed and can cause layer lines. Most go for around 7mm, another good setting to have but I couldn't see it in chitubox (it's in lychee) is the wait before print, this is generally a 1 second delay when the print lowers back the the FEP and before the UV lights shine, as it gives time for the resin to calm down so there's no ripples / unevenness in the layer lines. 3D printing Pro RUclips channel offers a lot of great tips, I highly recommend him and his insane lychee settings. Great job in knocking down the lifting speed, I like to use the analogy for suction force equivalent to pulling your hand out of a pool of water, if you pull it out fast vs compare to pulling it out slowly you'll notice the problem of both suction and gravity pulling down, translate that to 3d printing where the tip of the support is really fine you'd need to compensate by either adding thicker tips (which will damage the surface of the model), adding a lot more supports or decreasing the lift speed, the later two are often the prefered method.
Try adding "sphere" to your support contact to the model, will save you lot of sanding and will help not to deform the model where the support touch it, Also 3mm lifting distance is to little, try 5 at least. good luck
This was a pleasure to see Danny, you took the leap of faith!!
I look forward to taking the leap soon as well!!
More more! I would love to see more contect about 3d resin printing
Amazing to see your work printed.
Very nice watch, good to see the process as you shown it. Im about to venture into resin printing and can see from your results its going to give a new life to digital sculpting.
normally. there is a cleaning setting on the printer. add a few failed supports to hold with your fingers, and the printer will "cure" the whole size of the FEP sheet. Then you pull on the supports and you have "cleaned" the tray from a failed print.
I bought anycubic m5s myself and I've been playing with it recently, this option is nice but unfortunately a lot of resin goes to waste :( a large nipper is a good option and a pump is ideal. Tilting the whole container is always a mess. These containers should have funnels in one corner with a 10 mm opening and not a half funnel where everything escapes the top edge and down the container anyway...
Im fairly certain your printer comes with an FEP cleaning feature. Before you drain your resin, just lightly run your finger over the bottom of the tank and if you feel that there's bits stuck to the FEP, take a support from your print that still has the raft (the wide brim part that sticks to the bottom of the build plate), and place it in a corner of the tank so its standing up, then in your settings you can run the FEP cleaning feature which will fill the entire screen with UV light to expose the first few layers, then when it's done you can gently take the support and use it to lift up the bottom of the resin tank which will take up all the bits that were stuck to the FEP as well.
Really cool Danny! Nice one!
Oh also doing Remesh by unions using the gizmo can provide a more consistent result and it doesn't melt your model as much. Then normally you group by normals and use SHIFT+CTRL to isolate the outer most group after this you close holes just to make sure it all works! hope it helps for the pipeline!
I'm using a 100ml syringe to pick up all the resin from the vat and pouring it back in the bottle through a metal colander. Pouring the resin from the vat directly was such a hassle and such a pain to clean up. Using a syringe is easier, cleaner and you lower the amount of wasted resin.
JFC that spreadsheet was on screen for like 0.2 seconds and i decided to to make a dial up noise. That Cone idea is kinda genius i always wondered how people would make up for this kinda thing an find good settings.
Awesommmmeeeeeee!!! You're really enjoying this. Love it
Inspiredddddd
I loved your reaction at seeing your first print, I still get that feeling with new prints.
You are already a legend with modelling but now that you have your own resin printer that is great news for us makers, an artist that understands the printing pitfalls is a bonus.
Hopefully we will see some of your jaw dropping work released in print ready .stl's
If you want a short list of my frustrations with printed models just say.
(I'm going to invest in your blender course once I get past the eye cluster-bomb of the workspace)
Amazing :O
More supports! You'll be good!
wow great print!
SO cool!!!
These videos are fun to follow! I'll buy a couple of square pieces!
I've had the most issues calibrating and using the Elegoo Water Washable resins.
Awesome job!!
❤❤❤
Nice Work man, i was 3d printing one year ago, i recomend lychee slicer, and protect the lcd screen, we dont want accidents, i love your work, do you will paint the figures? love this video
Hey danny love your sculpts so much. Can you make a video on detail guide to how to use multires modifier to sculpt and using miltires to bake the details. Plz can u make🙏😕. Each step sculpting, retopo, unwrapping baking texturing
Can you make a video about how you can swap/change female character's shoes from HIGH HEELS, SNEAKERS, BOOTS, FLAT FOOTED like in open world games like GTA, Saints Row etc.
That is much needed and you will be a hero to the community.
Just found you on Instagram. This is my new favorite channel!
I’ve been wanting to do thissss
That's amazing! 🤩 Thanks for showing the steps in preparing for 3D printing! 😮 So you're using Blender for sculpting instead of Zbrush. 👍 I'm considering giving it a shot too!
💐💐💐💐
This is a great video! You're specialty is teaching us what youve learned during your learning process. Knew you'd be able to make this type of content work! (I was the harsh critique) Watch your thumbnail though Part 2 may discourage people from clicking because they have never seen part 1. Keep up the great work!
A good thumbnail could be a split the cut the model in half or across with one side being digital and the other being the print
@@jjninja2 Hey that's a really nice idea! I may well take you up on that! And I appreciate the feedback. I took your critique on board because you vocalised what I kinda knew inside already - the last video didn't flow right at all. Now you have vocalised something else I'm not too happy with - the thumbnail ha!
@@jjninja2 And edited! That's for a nice idea!!
9:28 For a second I thought you had huge ears. from what I assume is the head rest of your chair
Tempted to get a 3D printer but didn't want to deal with the noise and smelly chemicals. Get someone else to print it for me.
Tbh 3d printers (more so the resin) are actually quite quiet.
how to remesh for transform to STL file? pleassse you will do a video with this steps. after the bloking model :)
2 questions. How does 3d printing handle intersecting geo? Is it best to make all one piece? Also quads or a decimated model better or doesn't matter? Thanks
dale danii
printing experts answer plz ,
is it ok to have overlaped objects in 3d printing?
Where did you learn 3d sculpt
First time I see you smile ahah :p
Need a funnel 😂
Pukka !
vat clean thats a smack on the hand lol.i bet that hand is sore by now lol