A word of caution on the canned air: canned air has a propellant inside, and that might leave the can when you spray. I’m not sure if tubes will be affected by it, but coming from the camera field, spraying the image sensor with canned air has sometimes resulted in completely blurry photos afterwards
It can be a tough decision. I was going to paint my BNVD-SG's, and the Sentinel, but I keep thinking of re-sale value because I'm a flipper. The -9s I already broke and fixed so said f' it!
NITEWALKER Shit. I totally forgot you broke the ANVIS-9’s. Did you replace the housing or did you fix them yourself? And if so, what was the process to fix them?
@@WheelchairOperator I epoxied the PAS back together and ran it that way for a while. Then decided to make my own up armor out of aluminum angle that I epoxied over the PAS to reinforce it. I was going to sell it and even listed it, but I fell in love with how light it is. The -9 is super lightweight about 17-18oz. I should've done a video but I was in get er done mode, lol
NITEWALKER Damn. That’s awesome that you were able to fix it back up. You should definitely making a video going over how it broke and then the process you went through to fix it.
@@NITEWALKER-NIGHTVISION Sure, making one is quite nice. But when that becomes the main task for every new device, It makes me wonder if there is no better way. So you just saved me a bunch of time, that I can spend on more interesting tasks.
I acquired two minor blem gen 3 omni 7 tubes in green phosphur for 1100 bucks they are 11769 tubes they have ribbon cable manual gain function and want to do this I'm planning to use them for duals, getting an aeternus dual tube housing
Hello I'm new to the nv scene. Is it possible to slide the tube back into the pvs14 monocular to bridge 2 pvs14. The reason I ask i heard someone mention that they have to be 2 10160 to bridge them together. Thanks in advance.
The 10160 tubes will work inside the PVS-14 housing but you don’t have to only use 10160 tubes. The difference is that 10160s are by design meant to go into a binocular whereas the 11769 tubes are essentially meant for PVS-14s, although some goggles use them.
Looking to drop my Pvs 14 tubes into a lighter dual housing and this video is well within my comfort zone. I’m reading about needing resistors installed in place of the pigtail. Is that something that’s necessary with 2019-2020 L3 filmless tubes?
I’ve read that 11769 tubes need a resister installed to work in 10160 housings is that trie? Or once it’s in a RNVG for instance, wit the pigtail relived you’re good to go? Using never L3 tubes. Thanks!
John Burton Newer L3 tubes don’t need resistors you just unplug the pigtails like I show in the video. Elbit tubes require a resistor and older L3 tubes also
For the tubes to work, nothing, but for the system to perform properly yes, it needs to be collimated and nitrogen purging is recommended if using it in a high humidity location
@@foss129 I'll "see" what I can do, lol. I attempted to put one together after doing this one but I wasn't happy with how the two images showing how to align it came out
Can you just put an MX-10160 tube without gain control in a 14 housing? Im looking to build on and 10160 tubes are significantly cheaper and i dont care about not having manual gain control
Wondering if Harris F9815M16G, from 2017 batch can be converted or no? What do you think? If no, the resister is located on the pigtail? Shall I use this resister to solder it instead of the pigtail connection?
@@andrewshaio1181 Honestly, you’re probably better off selling it and buying a 10160 tube instead. However if you’re good at soldering and working on electronics: www.ar15.com/forums/Armory/Make-the-tech-board-great-again-How-to-convert-an-MX-11769-to-MX-10160-with-pics/18-523263/
Yes and no. The RNVG can be ordered with front objective lens threads to fit either PVS-14 or Anvis objectives. The threads are not the same so the objectives are not interchangeable, although the rear eyepieces are interchangeable. The Anvis and -14 eyepieces have the same threads and are essentially the same other than Anvis do not have threads on the inside where the ring threads into. This is the ring that the rubber eye cup/wilcox amber filter attaches to, or that you unscrew to replace with a screw in amber filter, etc. A warning about Anvis eyepieces - there are some older Anvis eyepieces with glass that's smaller in diameter then newer ones. There are a lot of dealers these days but I only have direct experience with a few. I'd check with these guys below. They build units in house which means they buy housings only. There are a lot of dealers who don't actually build/assemble devices themselves but are more like a dealer's dealer or a dealer's dealer's dealer if that makes sense. I'm not saying they are bad dealers but it has to affect lead times & pricing because there are more hands in the jar and potential for the misunderstanding/incorrect information being passed to the actual builder. TNVC Night Vision Inc.
If I sent you a build sheet would you be able to tell if it was a 11769 tube. My thing I don't want to loss purge on housing to check. It is in fact an L3 w/p 11769 tube and inspected in 2017. I don't know if that deals with manufacturing or what. Was going to go to a dual PVS14 setup but this seems like its more or less straight forward. Anyway you have a private messenger for questions, and obviously at my own risk I got it.
@@NITEWALKER-NIGHTVISION >Has 1550 FOM >Tries to imagine 2440. ... How low is the EBI? Also, grats on WP duals. I'm just working on duals right now. Maybe I too will one day rock WP filmless duals.
@@mikethemaniac1 All the specs are really good. EBI and halo are .7. These were the PVS- 14s with zone 3 blem from N-Vision. They were $3,300 each. A normal tube with these specs is over $4k. Best looking tubes I've ever had. I want to see one of these 3200 FOM filmless WP tubes I hear the super secret squirrels get. That's gotta be crazy
The hard part right now is a lot of dealers are struggling to fill device orders (binos, -14's, etc.) so they don't want to sell tubes by themselves since they need them for systems. I've seen Kosher Surplus sell tubes by themselves and maybe check Ultimate Night Vision.
Most binos do not have manual gain. Anvis 6/9, PVS-15s, RNVG, ARNVG, MOD3 RNVG, DTNVG/DTNVS, Katanas, LLUI-21, and BNVD 1431 mk2 requires some special modification wth a resistor and some soldering and if youre building them yourself...i dont recommend you try it if you dont know what youre doing. The only binos on the market to my knowledge that have manual gain control is the PVS-31, the BNVD 1431 (again, requires a modification to work), and soon to come to market in a couple weeks - the Nocturn Industries "Manticore". Thats really about it. So if you can get yourself some Omni 8 L3 MX11769 tubes or other L3 MX11769 tubes but cant find any MX10160 format and need them inside a bino housing...this is where you would do this mod
Great video man! But i have a question the pvs is manual gain, the anvis auto gain. So does the anvis still autogain or is it just one powersetting? Thx mate
Bas Duurland Yes, the auto gain still works. The gain level is now close to max gain which with these tubes works great (high SNR and low EBI). All gen 3 tubes have ABC (automatic brightness control). The PVS-14 11769 tube with the gain pigtail attached auto gains also. The difference is you can manually control the minimum/maximum static gain level. Side by side with my Sentinel with true 10160s in it, the max gain looks about the same
@@NITEWALKER-NIGHTVISION thanks mate, l3 im not formiliar with because i live in europe. All we have is photonis and to get our hands on a l3 tube is almost impossible (at least the legal way haha). We can get them but because of itar the paperwork is not even something im gonna try.
@@basduurland8334 Yeah, that sucks for you guys. The Photonis 11769's from what I've seen and been told have soldered on pigtails, so you'd have to solder in a resistor to use it in a no-gain housing.
Excellent tutorial, when I built my unit I used Bloxygen for inert gas/purge and was good to go!
A word of caution on the canned air:
canned air has a propellant inside, and that might leave the can when you spray. I’m not sure if tubes will be affected by it, but coming from the camera field, spraying the image sensor with canned air has sometimes resulted in completely blurry photos afterwards
Just make sure no liquid remains
I guess it’s time to spray paint the DTNVG’s now! 😍
It can be a tough decision. I was going to paint my BNVD-SG's, and the Sentinel, but I keep thinking of re-sale value because I'm a flipper. The -9s I already broke and fixed so said f' it!
NITEWALKER Shit. I totally forgot you broke the ANVIS-9’s. Did you replace the housing or did you fix them yourself? And if so, what was the process to fix them?
@@WheelchairOperator I epoxied the PAS back together and ran it that way for a while. Then decided to make my own up armor out of aluminum angle that I epoxied over the PAS to reinforce it. I was going to sell it and even listed it, but I fell in love with how light it is. The -9 is super lightweight about 17-18oz.
I should've done a video but I was in get er done mode, lol
NITEWALKER Damn. That’s awesome that you were able to fix it back up. You should definitely making a video going over how it broke and then the process you went through to fix it.
Wheelchair Operator Might have to do that 👍
Wow thank you so much this was the info I was looking for 🤘
I wish I knew about that lens removal tool.
I did fiddle around with watch opener tools and ended up making my own tools from blocks of steel.
Arno nümuss But it’s probably more satisfying making the custom tool
@@NITEWALKER-NIGHTVISION Sure, making one is quite nice.
But when that becomes the main task for every new device, It makes me wonder if there is no better way.
So you just saved me a bunch of time, that I can spend on more interesting tasks.
I acquired two minor blem gen 3 omni 7 tubes in green phosphur for 1100 bucks they are 11769 tubes they have ribbon cable manual gain function and want to do this I'm planning to use them for duals, getting an aeternus dual tube housing
Any video on disassembly or assembly of RNVG? Something in my housing is loose turning off my right tube.
Awesome video!
Hello I'm new to the nv scene. Is it possible to slide the tube back into the pvs14 monocular to bridge 2 pvs14. The reason I ask i heard someone mention that they have to be 2 10160 to bridge them together. Thanks in advance.
The 10160 tubes will work inside the PVS-14 housing but you don’t have to only use 10160 tubes. The difference is that 10160s are by design meant to go into a binocular whereas the 11769 tubes are essentially meant for PVS-14s, although some goggles use them.
Thanks for the info
Where did you find those small containers for the extra components?
I don't remember where. Maybe Walmart. You can probably find them online. Look for round containers with hinged lids.
Looking to drop my Pvs 14 tubes into a lighter dual housing and this video is well within my comfort zone. I’m reading about needing resistors installed in place of the pigtail. Is that something that’s necessary with 2019-2020 L3 filmless tubes?
I’ve read that 11769 tubes need a resister installed to work in 10160 housings is that trie? Or once it’s in a RNVG for instance, wit the pigtail relived you’re good to go? Using never L3 tubes. Thanks!
John Burton Newer L3 tubes don’t need resistors you just unplug the pigtails like I show in the video. Elbit tubes require a resistor and older L3 tubes also
Ok thank you! Just debating if I want to do it myself and not have it nitrogen purged or not
John Burton Keep in mind that unplugging it will void the factory warranty if you have one.
Hello!! The Liton 11769U/V needs resistors? 2009 CAD
Is there any other steps that need to be done after they are assembled? Or once the tubes are in and the optics are set is it good to go?
For the tubes to work, nothing, but for the system to perform properly yes, it needs to be collimated and nitrogen purging is recommended if using it in a high humidity location
@@NITEWALKER-NIGHTVISION any chance of a video on the collimation process?
@@foss129 I'll "see" what I can do, lol. I attempted to put one together after doing this one but I wasn't happy with how the two images showing how to align it came out
Do you sell the removable gain pig tail?
No we do not but shoot us an email to sales@tnvc.com asking about it. If the build team has extras maybe they can help you out
@@NITEWALKER-NIGHTVISION Thank you!
where can you purchase small parts? I need to replace the tilt lever and adjustment knobs on the PAS bridge
tucker kennedy Try these guys:
kdsportinggroup.com/night-vision-repair-service/
Can you just put an MX-10160 tube without gain control in a 14 housing? Im looking to build on and 10160 tubes are significantly cheaper and i dont care about not having manual gain control
You can, you will just have the extra weight that the pvs-14 battery compartment has
Go with a Tanto if you want to go that route, lighter weight and fantastic company
Wondering if Harris F9815M16G, from 2017 batch can be converted or no? What do you think? If no, the resister is located on the pigtail? Shall I use this resister to solder it instead of the pigtail connection?
The old Harris (now Elbit) tubes require you to desolder it from the tube and replace with a resistor
The proper resistor is located on the pigtail and I can just take it from there? Or I should better buy a new one and solder it?
@@andrewshaio1181 Honestly, you’re probably better off selling it and buying a 10160 tube instead. However if you’re good at soldering and working on electronics: www.ar15.com/forums/Armory/Make-the-tech-board-great-again-How-to-convert-an-MX-11769-to-MX-10160-with-pics/18-523263/
How is the tube powered in the anvis 9?
Watch my Anvis 9 video
RNVGs use the same rear and forward lenses as pvs-14s right? Where are the best places to get RNVG housings?
Yes and no.
The RNVG can be ordered with front objective lens threads to fit either PVS-14 or Anvis objectives. The threads are not the same so the objectives are not interchangeable, although the rear eyepieces are interchangeable. The Anvis and -14 eyepieces have the same threads and are essentially the same other than Anvis do not have threads on the inside where the ring threads into. This is the ring that the rubber eye cup/wilcox amber filter attaches to, or that you unscrew to replace with a screw in amber filter, etc.
A warning about Anvis eyepieces - there are some older Anvis eyepieces with glass that's smaller in diameter then newer ones.
There are a lot of dealers these days but I only have direct experience with a few. I'd check with these guys below. They build units in house which means they buy housings only. There are a lot of dealers who don't actually build/assemble devices themselves but are more like a dealer's dealer or a dealer's dealer's dealer if that makes sense. I'm not saying they are bad dealers but it has to affect lead times & pricing because there are more hands in the jar and potential for the misunderstanding/incorrect information being passed to the actual builder.
TNVC
Night Vision Inc.
Anyone have a good source for quality imagine intensifier tubes at by themselves at good prices? Looking to build my own dtnvs soon
Can you add a pigtail to a 10160 tube? Or an itt 10160 tube?
The newer 10160s or at least the L3Harris 10160’s are capable. Otherwise no
If I sent you a build sheet would you be able to tell if it was a 11769 tube. My thing I don't want to loss purge on housing to check. It is in fact an L3 w/p 11769 tube and inspected in 2017. I don't know if that deals with manufacturing or what. Was going to go to a dual PVS14 setup but this seems like its more or less straight forward. Anyway you have a private messenger for questions, and obviously at my own risk I got it.
Go to "contact" at the top of the page
I thought you needed to install reisister or something after removing the pig tail
Not on the newer L3Harris tubes. You need the resistor on the ITT/Elbit tubes.
Are you referring to the ones with the pigtail soldered on
are these WP tubes?
Yessir - L3 filmless WP. 2440 FOM
@@NITEWALKER-NIGHTVISION >Has 1550 FOM
>Tries to imagine 2440.
... How low is the EBI? Also, grats on WP duals. I'm just working on duals right now. Maybe I too will one day rock WP filmless duals.
@@mikethemaniac1 All the specs are really good. EBI and halo are .7. These were the PVS- 14s with zone 3 blem from N-Vision. They were $3,300 each. A normal tube with these specs is over $4k. Best looking tubes I've ever had. I want to see one of these 3200 FOM filmless WP tubes I hear the super secret squirrels get. That's gotta be crazy
Do you know where to get the 10160 WP tubes?
The hard part right now is a lot of dealers are struggling to fill device orders (binos, -14's, etc.) so they don't want to sell tubes by themselves since they need them for systems. I've seen Kosher Surplus sell tubes by themselves and maybe check Ultimate Night Vision.
Why might someone want to do this modification..?
Most binos do not have manual gain. Anvis 6/9, PVS-15s, RNVG, ARNVG, MOD3 RNVG, DTNVG/DTNVS, Katanas, LLUI-21, and BNVD 1431 mk2 requires some special modification wth a resistor and some soldering and if youre building them yourself...i dont recommend you try it if you dont know what youre doing. The only binos on the market to my knowledge that have manual gain control is the PVS-31, the BNVD 1431 (again, requires a modification to work), and soon to come to market in a couple weeks - the Nocturn Industries "Manticore". Thats really about it. So if you can get yourself some Omni 8 L3 MX11769 tubes or other L3 MX11769 tubes but cant find any MX10160 format and need them inside a bino housing...this is where you would do this mod
Great video man!
But i have a question the pvs is manual gain, the anvis auto gain.
So does the anvis still autogain or is it just one powersetting?
Thx mate
Bas Duurland Yes, the auto gain still works. The gain level is now close to max gain which with these tubes works great (high SNR and low EBI). All gen 3 tubes have ABC (automatic brightness control). The PVS-14 11769 tube with the gain pigtail attached auto gains also. The difference is you can manually control the minimum/maximum static gain level. Side by side with my Sentinel with true 10160s in it, the max gain looks about the same
@@NITEWALKER-NIGHTVISION thanks mate, l3 im not formiliar with because i live in europe.
All we have is photonis and to get our hands on a l3 tube is almost impossible (at least the legal way haha). We can get them but because of itar the paperwork is not even something im gonna try.
@@basduurland8334 Yeah, that sucks for you guys. The Photonis 11769's from what I've seen and been told have soldered on pigtails, so you'd have to solder in a resistor to use it in a no-gain housing.
@@NITEWALKER-NIGHTVISION im about to install my PVS 14 ITT Tube into a MUM 14 which uses also MX10160 Format. What Kind of resistor Do i need?
Guenther Zack Ideally you’d use a potentiometer to determine the gain level you want, but probably go with 160K.
For such a great job a light for us to see would be good, anyways thankyou.
Fun fact barrow Alaska is the best and worst place to own night vision
Argon purge these things.