I am so glad I found your video. I'm building my first kit and I got to the electrical system and got overwhelmed and kind of stopped. This was exactly what I needed to keep going!
Thanks for doing these type videos. I’m rebuilding a 1946 stinson from the ground up so EVERYTHING in the Electrical system will be new. This helps me a lot.
WOW this is the clearest description I have ever seen of a basic electrical system. This helps me visualize the basics for building my RV-14. Thanks! Random question: what primer are you using?
I wish there were more videos out there like this when it comes to electricity. You have the real components, and the schematics as well as the theory. It's infuriating how you can know how to solve a circuit diagram, but if you open up a electrical box you don't see a schematic you see a bunch of wires and relays.
sorry to be so offtopic but does someone know a method to log back into an instagram account? I somehow forgot my login password. I appreciate any assistance you can give me
@Rocky Rene Thanks for your reply. I found the site thru google and im in the hacking process now. Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
Hi there Stu. Very helpful video for me. I am running a 40amp B&C Alt and just ordered the current limiter and shunt from B&C. When ordering the shunt it says in the description that I might not need it if running an EFIS which I am; Advanced. So I planned on installing like you have shown. Its an RV7 0-360. Thank you if able to offer some additional insight.
What would you like to discuss? As far as avionics talking to each other I leave it up to the professionals and I order pre made wiring. Otherwise all basic wiring and switches I do myself. Its relatively easy once you have a diagram plan.
It’s a G3X system so everything was included. Here is a link to Steinair website of G3X shunt and current limiter www.steinair.com/product/g3x-shunt-100-amps/ www.steinair.com/product/anl-60-amp-fuse-limiter/ www.steinair.com/product/anl-fuse-limiter-block/
@@stusaircraftfactory6592 Thank You. Actually i am restoring an Old airplane and redoing the whole electrical system. That is why I asked, as Your video was so informative for the rest. I would like to build the electrical as You suggested. By the way, I am a retired AirForce pilot in Sweden restoring a Jodel 1050.
I put a big 30 amp relay in for my little facet fuel pump on the ultralight. I couldn't find a smaller relay, it's kinda big. do I even need a relay, I have a good switch.
That’s only to ground the starter solenoid base. Actual ground wire is 4AWG. Reason is I used clickbond fasteners so base was not grounded. Just need to be cautious
@@stusaircraftfactory6592 Makes sense now. Also been watching your video the whole evening. Just came across your channel. Wow. Detailed information on topic I wouldn't think about. One day I will build my plane but for now acquiring as much knowledge. Also working on my PPL. Looking forward to more great content from you.
Stu Thankyou for such an excellent video. you use diodes on the starter and master relays can you please explain what they are and where we can get them Keep up the good work Barry a bede 4 builder
Couple of suggestions: Rather than taking starter current from downstream of the master relay, it is common practice to wire battery positive to the master relay with one wire, and to the starter relay with another. That way the master really contacts will not carry starter current. The disadvantage is that if the starter really contacts stick closed, you will have to disconnect the battery to stop the starter from turning. As far as the ammeter shunt goes, you can do away with it. Find out what the shunt resistance required for your meter is--it may be as low as one milliohm. Next, look at the wires connecting the circuit that would normally go through the shunt. Check out wire gauge/resistance per foot tables, and select a wire size that will complete the circuit, AND, when cut to the length that will be long enough, but not too long for installation, and will also result in the exact same resistance end-to-end as the bare shunt. Ohm's Law, you know. This will be a critical-length wire, for example, maybe 24 1/4 inches. Now connect the ammeter lead wires to the same terminals to which the wire is connected when installed. You can crimp the ammeter wires, which will probably be 20 or 22 gauge but size is not critical, into the same terminals terminating the larger, current carrying wires, to make a simple installation. The wire can become the shunt, if it is exactly the same resistance. When it comes to stripping wires, on production aircraft, a single nicked strand makes a wire unserviceable. Leaving stands out of a terminal not only reduces the current-carrying capability, but the cut-off ends can work through the heat shrink and cause a short circuit. Also, calibrated wire crimping equipment is extremely expensive, but under-crimping is common without it. You can always test a completed wire assembly for its current carrying capability: Determine the maximum current that it will be expected to carry, devise a combination of batteries and loads (Ohm's Law again) that will produce that current, and connect the (completed) wire under test in series. Connect a voltmeter between the two ends of the wire under test, turn on the current, and check the voltage drop on the voltmeter. If the whole-wire voltage drop seems excessive, repeat the test at each terminal of the wire with one meter lead connected to the terminal end and the other lead to the wire conductor where it goes into the terminal. An insufficient crimp will result in an excessive voltage drop. For any given termination, you do not want a voltage drop much more than one percent of the aircraft supply voltage.
Trick I was told by a experienced RUclipsr. Close up hand shots distract viewers. Especially banged up airplane building hands. I use them legit for fiberglass work and sanding.
Okay, I had to look up "click bond fastener." I have built 3 aircraft and have never heard of them. I saw Spruce as them. Do they hold up well to vibrations over time? Thanks for your video!
I’ve seen some aerobatic planes mount their solenoids “sideways” so that pulling G doesn’t dislodge the plunger and engage the starter momentarily.. I realize the RV isn’t a hardcore aerobatic plane, but it wouldn’t hurt to go sideways anyway..any thoughts on that?
I’ve seen that also. The magnet on the master relay pulls down so it will be ok. The starter solenoid actually mounts upside down so you would have to do negative g to trip it. Plus the g would be huge, the magnet is really strong. Maybe a factor when it wears a bit
Sir... I have one doubt regarding aircraft electric circuit. One switch has 3 positions with centre auto position. One indication light should ON either positions. But this is not coming ON in either positions but When coming back to Auto position light is coming ON for fraction of second then goes off. What may be the reason? I know without circuit it is difficult to tell? Thank you sir ..
Interesting. I’ll have to draw myself a couple diagrams to see how I’d wire this and if it even possible with that switch. I’ll get back to you. Issue is with a momentary switch like that you are reversing the polarity. Are you controlling flaps or trim with this? What is reason for the light? To show you it’s working?
Thank you for ur reply....it's a very big wiring diagram & I can't share it. It's regarding aircraft anti icing. In protection check, light is not coming on in either positions as earlier said. Thank you sir🙏
Bob Nuckolls was a great source. Our EAA chapter brought him in for a good class when we were building back in the '90s.
I am so glad I found your video. I'm building my first kit and I got to the electrical system and got overwhelmed and kind of stopped. This was exactly what I needed to keep going!
This video has been invaluable to me for trying to figure out the electrical system on my Skybolt. Thanks!
Wow! Well explained! Would absolutely love to see more content!
Thank you for taking the time to give such detail and clarity!
Thank you for the great video. I'm in the process of wiring an Avid Magnum. This was very helpful. ✈️
I really liked your video. So nicely explained with actual installation on aircraft. Thanks
Thanks for doing these type videos. I’m rebuilding a 1946 stinson from the ground up so EVERYTHING in the Electrical system will be new. This helps me a lot.
Great more to come. Just finished wiring the right hand switches
What a greeat video. Thank you for taking the time and making this great video.
Beautifully done and clearly explained. Very helpful!
I'm not so sure I love it as much as Raven does, but great explanation, Stu!
Lmao.. Thanks to stue we all now know how to hot wire raven hahaha
Hahaha part of RUclips life
@@stusaircraftfactory6592 ha! Yup.
Thank you for this video!
You can avoid stray strands by making only the cut around the cable and twisting the excess insulation as you pull it off.
Very nice video. Clear and well structured.
Nicely done. Very clear no wasted time.
WOW this is the clearest description I have ever seen of a basic electrical system. This helps me visualize the basics for building my RV-14. Thanks! Random question: what primer are you using?
For primer I use the simplest process possible. Spray can self etching grey primer.
@@stusaircraftfactory6592 Got it.. Me too (and the Sherman Williams P60G2 wash primer). I just saw the yellow primer on there
Yellow primer is zinc chromate - old school but great stuff
I wish there were more videos out there like this when it comes to electricity. You have the real components, and the schematics as well as the theory. It's infuriating how you can know how to solve a circuit diagram, but if you open up a electrical box you don't see a schematic you see a bunch of wires and relays.
sorry to be so offtopic but does someone know a method to log back into an instagram account?
I somehow forgot my login password. I appreciate any assistance you can give me
@Porter Cooper instablaster =)
@Rocky Rene Thanks for your reply. I found the site thru google and im in the hacking process now.
Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
@Rocky Rene It worked and I finally got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thanks so much, you saved my ass :D
@Porter Cooper glad I could help =)
Great explanation. Where do you buy your clickbond fasteners?
Very clear and concise
GGreat video, very instructive and well done. However, I have never heard or seen a “current limiter” before. Is it necessary?
Excellent and very helpful thankyou for these vids
Hi there Stu. Very helpful video for me. I am running a 40amp B&C Alt and just ordered the current limiter and shunt from B&C. When ordering the shunt it says in the description that I might not need it if running an EFIS which I am; Advanced. So I planned on installing like you have shown. Its an RV7 0-360. Thank you if able to offer some additional insight.
This was very helpful. Will you be making more of these videos of electricity along with schematics soon. This really helped for my practical tests
What would you like to discuss? As far as avionics talking to each other I leave it up to the professionals and I order pre made wiring. Otherwise all basic wiring and switches I do myself. Its relatively easy once you have a diagram plan.
Fantastic presentation. A+ New sub here.
Excellent detail, narration and clarity! Never seem the hammer crimper before. Looks like it works well. Where did your get it?
www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalog/topages/crimptool12-03719.php
@@stusaircraftfactory6592 Got it!
Thanks.
Hi. Great video. What are the part No:s on the currentlimiter and the shunt?
It’s a G3X system so everything was included. Here is a link to Steinair website of G3X shunt and current limiter
www.steinair.com/product/g3x-shunt-100-amps/
www.steinair.com/product/anl-60-amp-fuse-limiter/
www.steinair.com/product/anl-fuse-limiter-block/
@@stusaircraftfactory6592 Thank You. Actually i am restoring an Old airplane and redoing the whole electrical system. That is why I asked, as Your video was so informative for the rest. I would like to build the electrical as You suggested. By the way, I am a retired AirForce pilot in Sweden restoring a Jodel 1050.
I put a big 30 amp relay in for my little facet fuel pump on the ultralight. I couldn't find a smaller relay, it's kinda big. do I even need a relay, I have a good switch.
For a basic facet pump a simple switch will work and that is what most people use. Relays are for very large items like master and starter.
Check that starter solenoid diode.. I don’t think you shouldn’t be getting such a big spark when you pull the start wire away..
Why so tiny gauge ground wire (the one you mentioned at the end of the video after debugging)?
That’s only to ground the starter solenoid base. Actual ground wire is 4AWG. Reason is I used clickbond fasteners so base was not grounded. Just need to be cautious
@@stusaircraftfactory6592 Makes sense now. Also been watching your video the whole evening. Just came across your channel. Wow. Detailed information on topic I wouldn't think about. One day I will build my plane but for now acquiring as much knowledge. Also working on my PPL. Looking forward to more great content from you.
@@bibrakc Awesome - its a learning curve but nothing impossible
Stu Thankyou for such an excellent video. you use diodes on the starter and master relays can you please explain what they are and where we can get them
Keep up the good work
Barry a bede 4 builder
I buy them direct from Vans. They have the size figured out. They are for when the switch is turned on and off. Keeps the spark lower.
Couple of suggestions: Rather than taking starter current from downstream of the master relay, it is common practice to wire battery positive to the master relay with one wire, and to the starter relay with another. That way the master really contacts will not carry starter current. The disadvantage is that if the starter really contacts stick closed, you will have to disconnect the battery to stop the starter from turning.
As far as the ammeter shunt goes, you can do away with it. Find out what the shunt resistance required for your meter is--it may be as low as one milliohm. Next, look at the wires connecting the circuit that would normally go through the shunt. Check out wire gauge/resistance per foot tables, and select a wire size that will complete the circuit, AND, when cut to the length that will be long enough, but not too long for installation, and will also result in the exact same resistance end-to-end as the bare shunt. Ohm's Law, you know. This will be a critical-length wire, for example, maybe 24 1/4 inches. Now connect the ammeter lead wires to the same terminals to which the wire is connected when installed. You can crimp the ammeter wires, which will probably be 20 or 22 gauge but size is not critical, into the same terminals terminating the larger, current carrying wires, to make a simple installation. The wire can become the shunt, if it is exactly the same resistance.
When it comes to stripping wires, on production aircraft, a single nicked strand makes a wire unserviceable. Leaving stands out of a terminal not only reduces the current-carrying capability, but the cut-off ends can work through the heat shrink and cause a short circuit. Also, calibrated wire crimping equipment is extremely expensive, but under-crimping is common without it. You can always test a completed wire assembly for its current carrying capability: Determine the maximum current that it will be expected to carry, devise a combination of batteries and loads (Ohm's Law again) that will produce that current, and connect the (completed) wire under test in series. Connect a voltmeter between the two ends of the wire under test, turn on the current, and check the voltage drop on the voltmeter. If the whole-wire voltage drop seems excessive, repeat the test at each terminal of the wire with one meter lead connected to the terminal end and the other lead to the wire conductor where it goes into the terminal. An insufficient crimp will result in an excessive voltage drop. For any given termination, you do not want a voltage drop much more than one percent of the aircraft supply voltage.
Curious, why do you always were rubber gloves?
Trick I was told by a experienced RUclipsr. Close up hand shots distract viewers. Especially banged up airplane building hands.
I use them legit for fiberglass work and sanding.
Okay, I had to look up "click bond fastener." I have built 3 aircraft and have never heard of them. I saw Spruce as them. Do they hold up well to vibrations over time? Thanks for your video!
They use them on the F22 Raptor so I think they’re ok. Prep is the key
I buy them at TheFlightShop.com
I’ve seen some aerobatic planes mount their solenoids “sideways” so that pulling G doesn’t dislodge the plunger and engage the starter momentarily.. I realize the RV isn’t a hardcore aerobatic plane, but it wouldn’t hurt to go sideways anyway..any thoughts on that?
I’ve seen that also. The magnet on the master relay pulls down so it will be ok. The starter solenoid actually mounts upside down so you would have to do negative g to trip it. Plus the g would be huge, the magnet is really strong. Maybe a factor when it wears a bit
Hello! Very helpful, but what software did you use to do that drawing? Thanks.
That’s just paint. Simple lines. You can find images of switches and relays on line to help you out
Great stuff.
I appears that the diode had heat shrink over it. That isn’t a good idea as it makes keeping the orientation correct more difficult.
True but the connectors are already installed when you buy it with the relay. It will only go on one way assuming they installed correctly
is the CURRENT limiter a fusable link?
Yes it can be. Technically those small wires do not have fuses so a link is an option.
Why Does it matter to what side the batt + is connected?
It doesn’t really. It’s just a plunger. You’d have to install diode differently. I’d just follow the labels on the terminals personally.
Why DO YOU NOT solder connections??
Because solder turns 19 strands into 1. Makes the wire fragile and subject to breaking in a vibration environment.
Sir... I have one doubt regarding aircraft electric circuit.
One switch has 3 positions with centre auto position. One indication light should ON either positions. But this is not coming ON in either positions but When coming back to Auto position light is coming ON for fraction of second then goes off. What may be the reason? I know without circuit it is difficult to tell? Thank you sir ..
Interesting. I’ll have to draw myself a couple diagrams to see how I’d wire this and if it even possible with that switch. I’ll get back to you.
Issue is with a momentary switch like that you are reversing the polarity. Are you controlling flaps or trim with this? What is reason for the light? To show you it’s working?
The only way I can see doing this is using a light that will turn one with either polarity (normal incandescent bulb) not a LED.
Shoot me an email and I’ll send a picture
Stu_aircraft_factory@hotmail.com
Thank you for ur reply....it's a very big wiring diagram & I can't share it. It's regarding aircraft anti icing. In protection check, light is not coming on in either positions as earlier said. Thank you sir🙏
Thanks
all thats need now is to install a Sodium ion battery
One line diagrams missing
The word is "battery" not "baddery", for me it made your video unwatchable, english isn't that hard... 🙄
Jealous?
@@soulstealer4073 Of what? Not being able to speak correctly, hardly... 😂🤣