About the TPU "racing stripe": PrusaSlicer 2.7.2 alpha 2 might have fixed the material bleeding issue. It was a bug in the slicer. You should try the latest beta that just released.
Correct. You may be talking about the "Multi-material segmentation improvements" to prevent Prusa Slicer sporadical crashes on thin walls as well all spilled layers, which on rare occasions could produce artifacts on outer perimeters. I can't tell for sure but your assumption may be right and as you said this is fixed in PrusaSlicer 2.7.2-alpha2. Michele Moramarco Prusa Research
On my XL i had the same issue with particularly soft filaments being bound in the PTFE tube, my issue was causd by the friction in the first filament sensor causing stretch inside the tube. Try removing the PTFE tube from the filament sensor and bypassing it then no additional parts are needed to print super soft filaments.
I would love to see the EVA foam filament printing something that would normally be made out of EVA foam. For example, cosplayers and furries use EVA foam to make costume head bases, but you can also 3d print those bases. The benefit is that 3d printed bases are easier to make and lighter, but more fragile as they don't have the impact absorption of foam and are brittle. So, I wonder if a foam-based filament could be the perfect middle ground.
Was doing this 6 years ago with canvas software and a pallete pro 2. This smacks of an excitable apple user when they get "new" features on their iphone that the rest of.the industry has had for years.
EVA foam. Print miniatures of what cosplay would print. some armor, sword, helmet. Chest plate... And a half size sample or child size so it does not go to waste. Love to see that one. And hide some of that in case powers that be want to take it away. If it works help the guy get a KICKSTARTER.
This is the reason I bought a P1 with an AMS, but after a lot of modding to even make it work it's just so damned slow changing materials out every layer. That and if you're not careful the layer will cool too much for decent bonding, wish I could have stretched to an XL. Also if you want some other fun, TPU works great as an interface 'glue' between materials you couldn't normally bond together. A thin single layer on the bed will also bond down big nylon parts against warping away from the bed. Quick tip, for the PETG and TPU print you couldn't get off the bed - pour a bit of IPA/Water mix at the base and let it wick under, it'll drop the adhesive force by half or more and let you peel it up.
...also, printing anything that needs a hinge with TPU for the hinging area and then PETG/Nylon, etc for the rest of the part gives amazing lifespan - TPU hinges last about 20-30x longer than nylon ones in my testing.
12:18 I converted my filament sensors to magnetic repelling or attracting instead of the springs used in the sensors. After the change its really easy to insert ninjaflex 85A through the PTFE tube. There is a prusa forum post called XL filament sensor mod for TPU. You should see it on the first page if there's any interest in doing this on your machine. I also did this to my mk4 nextruder filament sensor.
I absolutely LOVE my XL. It has run flawlessly without a single issue, prints beautifully, even better than my MK4, which was already amazing, and lets you do so much with multicolor and multi material... It is darn near perfect.
I’d really like to see a print with a living hinge printed inside. Think of printing a model of the human skeleton hand but the joints are ninjaflex and the bones are petg. That would be mind blowing!
Joel, great showcase of multi-material printing! That was exactly my thought when I started to explore multi-material capabilities. Initially, it felt like I had just turned to the next chapter of 3D printing, but then I realised I had just opened a new magical book of endless opportunities. Also, the fact that materials do not stick together is incredibly handy when you want to create smooth surfaces using support.
So with TPU's you really don't need a heated bed. The cooler the bed the less it sticks. However if you print another material that needs to be on the bed you will need higher temps, I find using a bit of glue stick helps to act as a release agent. Nice thing about TPU it supports a wide range of temperatures and likes to bond making it nice to combine with most materials. I have had some projects where I needed the TPU to be supported. This creates a problem as most all filaments bond to it. I have found PVA as one of the best support materials for it since it can be washed away with warm water. Makes very clean surfaces. I also printed a phone holder (for my car) where I used PETG for rigidity and TPU 80A as the surface. This helps to keep it from sliding and absorbs bumps.
Response to EVA question: EVA foam helmet attachments 💯. Light weight, paintable, awesome workability to really stand-off a helmet. Or a cos-play weapon, like a dagger 🗡️. @3D Printing Nerd
I successfully used PETG as a support interface for a complex PLA print. PLA and PETG will hardly stick together, so if you use PETG as the support interface (just 1 or 2 mm will work fine) for PLA, you can set the support gap from the print to 0, you won't have any filament drooping and the supports will still come off very easily. I suspect you could do the same the other way around, using PLA as a support interface for PETG. Did this with Eryone PLA and PETG on a Bambu Lab A1, you should test it yourself and see what you think of it.
@@elleryfg7853I’ve tried it with tpu from micro center, inland 95A. The hardness is firm enough that it does not bind when being fed, but only tried with small prints under 2~ hours. They don’t ’recommend’ it but totally possible!
Tried it with my AMS using micro centers inland 95A tpu, printed 75% of the roll so far in the ams with no issues… I’m only referencing my experience though and others may vary. It is not ‘recommended’ by the manufacturer but totally possible and others have too as well from a quick google search. Possible yes, recommend? No.
Got the 5 head XL and other than a few growing pains, it has been great. I needed a stand for my target bow. Designed one with TPU where it touches the bow and PETG for the legs. It worked fantastic and now others want them made. Just changing the 3d model parameters and I can make one for any bow with 2 measurements!
To make your warped coaster flat again just lay it down on bed heated to like 90 degrees and apply some pressure after it is soaked with heat then let it cooldown naturally with the bed 🙂 I was termoforming knee guards like this only that I was heating PETG and when it got soft I formed it on my knee 😅
When I first saw Prusa XL being announced this flex and stiff material mixing idea was giving me same amounts joy as I can see you're experiencing when talking about this technique :) Great experiments, I share your enthusiasm!
I've done some IDEX printing with TPU and PLA. I found the two didn't stick well at all without designing in some mechanical interlocking features. I really should try some TPU + PETG and maybe some other combos.
Hi , Joel , I discovered something ：After receiving the order, B2B robot army has set off, prusa ，creality, anycubic, elegoo, flsun, flashforge, are being destroyed. B2B robot army is everywhere, their traces are everywhere, like viruses. But here, I see no trace of the B2B bot army. How did you drive them away?
🤯🤦♂Obviously, you have EVA Filament and a Prusa XL. So you have enough room to make some cosplay helmets, etc. An EVA Storm Trooper Helmet anyone? A Big 'Ol 3D Printed sword? I GOT IT! Make a Millennium Falcon Drone with that filament! You just might need help from someone that knows drones. Do I smell a COLAB?
For the EVA foam, maybe a custom VR facial interface? (Depends on what it may off-gas! Some foams aren't suitable for this use.) The "bigscreen beyond" headset has shown that a custom facial interface [i.e., based off a face scan and shaped to the particular user,] can reduce pressure points and make a headset more comfortable, but they're not really available for other headsets; this feels like a niche that home 3d printing might be able to address. Colorfabb Varioshore might also be an option for this.
Interesting Video and I'd love to see you printing the EVA.😄 But a quick Google research shows, that Braskem offers EVA Filament - seems to be a very interesting alternative to Colorfabb Varioshore TPU, which is also a bit nasty to print, but I like it a lot for cosplay and Furry stuff 😁 So why aren't you printing a Furry mask out of the EVA? Would also fit perfectly to the size of the Prusa XL 😉
This is cool, but how do you think Co-Prints Chroma system will do with something like this? I backed the project back in December after watching your coverage on it, and got 2 kits that will do 8 filaments each. Really excited for them to start shipping in a few months. Prusa certainly has the advantage in being able to have multiple nozzle sizes as well. Which is honestly a big advantage. If only it wasn't $3500-$4000. Maybe I can justify it someday. lol
This is great. We're another step closer to having true replicators. If we're talking printable foam, then I'm thinking, custom fit pads for sports, helmets, and possibly custom Nerf-likes.
Printing a couple of EVA FOAM Iron Man Gauntlets would be cool. I've seen cosplayers use TPU for the gloves in the past, but sanding that stuff smooth (before they applied PlastiDip paint/details) was a pain. EVA foam would be a lot easier for that final smoothing process, right?
Joel: regarding the "material bleeding" you experienced in the phone stand, this is an issue with mesh generation that I reported a few weeks ago and has recently been fixed in PrusaSlicer 2.7.2-alpha2. Happy multi material printing!
12:02: A Harry Phonestand? It's missing the lightning on the top! Regarding EVA Foam filament, does it foam out like the lightweight PLA? If so, maybe try an actual floating Benchy with it? Something that uses the foam of it to expand the volume to make something super lightweight, while printing a water tight shell of PET on the outside, for instance?
Been doing this on my e3d tool changer for a while. Works well, but E3D support for the TC was absolutely dreadful. But the platform itself is decent. Its right they dont sell it anymore because they refused to support it. But the Prusa XL is just too damn expensive for what it is.
Flexible PLA is that food safe? The problem with the EVA foam is you probably want it because it's light and you want to make something big. Unfortunately that'd be wasting it.
Awesome video Joel. I have had great success on my XL when printing TPU with PLA supports. I used the dissolvable filament option in PrusaSlicer with 0.1mm offset. Prusa Support Chat was a great help with this idea. Thank you for showing what the XL can do.
I wonder if you could use a sacrificial piece of PETG or PLA with the super rubbery TPU either glued of melted together, where the more ridged filament serves as a sort of "snake" to pull the TPU up through to the extruder.
Awesome...pushing the envelope for 3D printing, again! :) I love the tests you've run so far. I would love in the future to see more details about multi-material printing. One question in particular would be more detail on the compatibility of different materials, and whether there are tweaks that can be done in slicing to improve the situation, e.g. nudging the print temps a little higher so dissimilar materials bond better. Another question I have is if and how to manage cooling settings in the slicer when there are different materials being put down for a layer. We already have slicer options to fine-tune cooling according to how large the print is, i.e. how long a given layer takes to print, but multi-material introduces all new issues around cooling rates depending on the cooling fan vs. ambient cooling while the print head is somewhere else, that sort of thing.
EVA Foam is often used in footwear, it would be amazing if you tried to print a sneaker or at least the sole of one!! Maybe you can even collaborate with Seth Fowler, he's a sneaker youtuber that has been 3D Printing shoes for a while now 👟
I hope some other company makes a real multi material printer as well, cause the price of the 5 tool Prusa XL is insane compared to other printers. If Bambu or some other Chinese company made one it would probably cost less than half as much.
the EV foam would make a good thermal insulator, so maybe a helmet on the Prusa XL with carbon fiber something or another for the outer shell, transparent for a visor, and that super soft stuff for the inside cushion. To make it Unique, shape it like a skull or monster or cartoon character or something.
I have been using the flexible pla for a while now. It really works great! It will stick to pei way too hard and i made a video about that. Many materials that stick too hard to pei are better printed on the steel side of the spring sheet. They stick well enough and come off much easier when cooled. Flashforge also makes a flexible pla that works really well. Here is my video on filaments that stick too well to pei ruclips.net/video/LIKwJSrS2VY/видео.html
I'm on version two of a custom phone case. I print 4mm in petg and the rest is tpu. The first one lasted a year and a half on test pritlnt settings. This one is on month 4 and solid as a brick. I even made cutouts to access all the ports, sensors, buttons, stylus and mics on the phone.
Real multimaterial printing seems pretty cool, but how will it be if you need to recycle that stuff (f.e. pellet extruder), can you just peel it apart?
I put à drop of IPA on the build plate to help release tpu. It goes under the print by capilarity and it goes from very hard to take out of the build plate to relatively easy. Hopes it helps
yeah already tired of the front loaded in the vid unavoidable adspot, itd be less annoying near the end or anywhere but the 1st 14 seconds. time to move on i guess, not that 1 person dropping means anything
Fiberlogy flex IS NOT TPU. It's block polyester-polyether elastomer. So more like TPC-ET (Thermoplastic copolyester - polyether block co polymer). Similar to Hytrel. It should play nice with other polyesters like PETG, PBT, PCTG and PLA.
Love the new space. Much bigger than I expected. With that much space, you should think about making a large-scale filament drier/storage unit. EVA foam filament... you still have that stuff? Nice. I'd try making something you can have fun throwing at people. Maybe a spiky golf ball?
That EVA Foam filament is interesting. I wonder how it would work in one of those print in place expanding swords. Hard outer shell but a soft inner "blade".
I just bought some flexible PLA… I tried a Benchy but it wound up a blobby boat… I have since dried the filament but haven’t had a chance to try again. I also couldn’t get anything to print after I got it all out of the machine (I also tried it in the AMS, which was a huge mistake); it turns out the filament remnant that my P1S would normally purge after cutting it, was completely stuck in the nozzle. Before all that I had tried to heat the nozzle up to 300° C to get any remnants to melt out of it, but nothing came out so I (mistakenly) assumed it was clear; it definitely was not! lol 😂 I’m definitely going to try again with it soon, but I have several more important projects to work on at the moment :)
Please someone refer reliable 30x30x30cm printer. XL im not interested at this price point. I’m using 7 MK3S+ , IM looking for same or closer reliability.
Hello, you don't have to order the XL with 5 tool heads. You can start with one and the price will be about double what you paid for MK3s+. Even with one tool head, you will get the big print area, input shaping, and all the other features. And we already offer upgrades to more tool heads if you need them later.
You shouldn’t be using a purge tower with multi materials! In fact, you do not need a purge tower at all with the XL. Change each extruder’s “retract while parked” to 11.7mm. This will lift the filament up out of the meltzone, thus allowing you to ditch the purge tower. Come on J!!
PS's material painting is bugged. Every now and then you get a random line like that. And it's in the gcode. You can see it in the preview. I found just by rotating the model (z axis only is fine) it often fixes these issues.
Hi! Currently, a small prime tower to stabilize the pressure in the nozzle before printing is still recommended, though we're getting closer and closer to making wasteless multi-material printing reliable enough for everyone to use. Stay tuned! Dominik Prusa Research
I get where the new format is heading, really trying to showcase the way 3d printing could be, or it already is the new AI big of a change, and we need to question the importance of it. If the 3d printer becomes as successful as a normal 2d printer, we are set for an interesting future.
To get a flexible print of the bed easily, drip some alcohol around then edges and it comes off after a few minutes without the risk of damaging the build plate.
About the TPU "racing stripe": PrusaSlicer 2.7.2 alpha 2 might have fixed the material bleeding issue. It was a bug in the slicer. You should try the latest beta that just released.
Correct. You may be talking about the "Multi-material segmentation improvements" to prevent Prusa Slicer sporadical crashes on thin walls as well all spilled layers, which on rare occasions could produce artifacts on outer perimeters. I can't tell for sure but your assumption may be right and as you said this is fixed in PrusaSlicer 2.7.2-alpha2.
Michele Moramarco
Prusa Research
@@Prusa3DYes, that was what I was referring to. I'm not 100% sure it will affect this, but probably.
On my XL i had the same issue with particularly soft filaments being bound in the PTFE tube, my issue was causd by the friction in the first filament sensor causing stretch inside the tube. Try removing the PTFE tube from the filament sensor and bypassing it then no additional parts are needed to print super soft filaments.
I would love to see the EVA foam filament printing something that would normally be made out of EVA foam. For example, cosplayers and furries use EVA foam to make costume head bases, but you can also 3d print those bases. The benefit is that 3d printed bases are easier to make and lighter, but more fragile as they don't have the impact absorption of foam and are brittle. So, I wonder if a foam-based filament could be the perfect middle ground.
I’m hopeful to test it with a cosplayer friend.
@@3DPrintingNerd Cool!
Was doing this 6 years ago with canvas software and a pallete pro 2. This smacks of an excitable apple user when they get "new" features on their iphone that the rest of.the industry has had for years.
EVA foam. Print miniatures of what cosplay would print. some armor, sword, helmet. Chest plate... And a half size sample or child size so it does not go to waste. Love to see that one. And hide some of that in case powers that be want to take it away. If it works help the guy get a KICKSTARTER.
How well is the adhesion between them?
Storm Trooper Helmet - RIGHT THERE.
This is the reason I bought a P1 with an AMS, but after a lot of modding to even make it work it's just so damned slow changing materials out every layer. That and if you're not careful the layer will cool too much for decent bonding, wish I could have stretched to an XL.
Also if you want some other fun, TPU works great as an interface 'glue' between materials you couldn't normally bond together. A thin single layer on the bed will also bond down big nylon parts against warping away from the bed.
Quick tip, for the PETG and TPU print you couldn't get off the bed - pour a bit of IPA/Water mix at the base and let it wick under, it'll drop the adhesive force by half or more and let you peel it up.
...also, printing anything that needs a hinge with TPU for the hinging area and then PETG/Nylon, etc for the rest of the part gives amazing lifespan - TPU hinges last about 20-30x longer than nylon ones in my testing.
The intro is just like a Donald Trump speech lol
Your EVA guy.... you know what happened... Big filament got him! :D
12:18 I converted my filament sensors to magnetic repelling or attracting instead of the springs used in the sensors. After the change its really easy to insert ninjaflex 85A through the PTFE tube. There is a prusa forum post called XL filament sensor mod for TPU. You should see it on the first page if there's any interest in doing this on your machine. I also did this to my mk4 nextruder filament sensor.
‘Joyful 3D printing’ has seemed like an oxymoron to me on so many occasions, but watching videos like this keeps my hope alive.
I absolutely LOVE my XL. It has run flawlessly without a single issue, prints beautifully, even better than my MK4, which was already amazing, and lets you do so much with multicolor and multi material... It is darn near perfect.
I want... hopefully they release an enclosure soon.
@@krollmond7544 We are working on it. There should be an update soon
@@Prusa3D🤯
King of Prussia, PA? That's about 20 minutes from me.
Joel, the new studio looks great. I am excited to see what you can do with the XL, I also have the 5 headed monster and would like to see your results
Print a benchy and see if it floats with the EVA
I’d really like to see a print with a living hinge printed inside. Think of printing a model of the human skeleton hand but the joints are ninjaflex and the bones are petg. That would be mind blowing!
Joel, great showcase of multi-material printing! That was exactly my thought when I started to explore multi-material capabilities. Initially, it felt like I had just turned to the next chapter of 3D printing, but then I realised I had just opened a new magical book of endless opportunities. Also, the fact that materials do not stick together is incredibly handy when you want to create smooth surfaces using support.
Usually Joel and his table makes other people looks so tiny. This printer now causes the same thing with Jeol. Such a massive printer
I’ve been waiting for this one. This is the main reason I’d ever buy a new printer!
So with TPU's you really don't need a heated bed. The cooler the bed the less it sticks. However if you print another material that needs to be on the bed you will need higher temps, I find using a bit of glue stick helps to act as a release agent.
Nice thing about TPU it supports a wide range of temperatures and likes to bond making it nice to combine with most materials.
I have had some projects where I needed the TPU to be supported. This creates a problem as most all filaments bond to it. I have found PVA as one of the best support materials for it since it can be washed away with warm water. Makes very clean surfaces.
I also printed a phone holder (for my car) where I used PETG for rigidity and TPU 80A as the surface. This helps to keep it from sliding and absorbs bumps.
Response to EVA question:
EVA foam helmet attachments 💯. Light weight, paintable, awesome workability to really stand-off a helmet. Or a cos-play weapon, like a dagger 🗡️.
@3D Printing Nerd
Extellar has an EVA filament made from sugar cane they market as a TPU alternative. Worth checking out maybe. A but pricey though. I mean so is TPU...
I found that pouring some IPA around a flexible print and letting it soak for just a bit makes it easier to release it from the build plate
We need to see complex multi color tpu prints with pla supports
I successfully used PETG as a support interface for a complex PLA print. PLA and PETG will hardly stick together, so if you use PETG as the support interface (just 1 or 2 mm will work fine) for PLA, you can set the support gap from the print to 0, you won't have any filament drooping and the supports will still come off very easily. I suspect you could do the same the other way around, using PLA as a support interface for PETG.
Did this with Eryone PLA and PETG on a Bambu Lab A1, you should test it yourself and see what you think of it.
Now, this is where the Prusa XL truly shines. There's no other alternative to this on the market right now.
You could do this with the Bambu lab and ams
@@gordodefuego as far as I'm concerned you can't do flexibles with the AMS.
@@elleryfg7853I’ve tried it with tpu from micro center, inland 95A. The hardness is firm enough that it does not bind when being fed, but only tried with small prints under 2~ hours. They don’t ’recommend’ it but totally possible!
@@gordodefuego You really can't.
Tried it with my AMS using micro centers inland 95A tpu, printed 75% of the roll so far in the ams with no issues… I’m only referencing my experience though and others may vary. It is not ‘recommended’ by the manufacturer but totally possible and others have too as well from a quick google search. Possible yes, recommend? No.
Got the 5 head XL and other than a few growing pains, it has been great. I needed a stand for my target bow. Designed one with TPU where it touches the bow and PETG for the legs. It worked fantastic and now others want them made. Just changing the 3d model parameters and I can make one for any bow with 2 measurements!
To make your warped coaster flat again just lay it down on bed heated to like 90 degrees and apply some pressure after it is soaked with heat then let it cooldown naturally with the bed 🙂 I was termoforming knee guards like this only that I was heating PETG and when it got soft I formed it on my knee 😅
Dammit, Joel! My pocketbook can't handle an XL! Stop it! 🤣
Setup a lemonade stand with all proceeds going towards an XL :)
When I first saw Prusa XL being announced this flex and stiff material mixing idea was giving me same amounts joy as I can see you're experiencing when talking about this technique :) Great experiments, I share your enthusiasm!
It’s SUCH an amazing feeling once it’s printed!
Contact an AAA cosplayer and make a collab. Print ’em something and win followers. Both will have amazing content and will end up winning something.
I've done some IDEX printing with TPU and PLA. I found the two didn't stick well at all without designing in some mechanical interlocking features. I really should try some TPU + PETG and maybe some other combos.
Saw someone blend TPU and PETG, it looked really good. I really want to see TPU with Nylon.
Hi , Joel , I discovered something ：After receiving the order, B2B robot army has set off, prusa ，creality, anycubic, elegoo, flsun, flashforge, are being destroyed. B2B robot army is everywhere, their traces are everywhere, like viruses. But here, I see no trace of the B2B bot army. How did you drive them away?
you should do a video about some of your old 3d printers
🤯🤦♂Obviously, you have EVA Filament and a Prusa XL. So you have enough room to make some cosplay helmets, etc. An EVA Storm Trooper Helmet anyone? A Big 'Ol 3D Printed sword?
I GOT IT! Make a Millennium Falcon Drone with that filament! You just might need help from someone that knows drones. Do I smell a COLAB?
For the EVA foam, maybe a custom VR facial interface? (Depends on what it may off-gas! Some foams aren't suitable for this use.) The "bigscreen beyond" headset has shown that a custom facial interface [i.e., based off a face scan and shaped to the particular user,] can reduce pressure points and make a headset more comfortable, but they're not really available for other headsets; this feels like a niche that home 3d printing might be able to address. Colorfabb Varioshore might also be an option for this.
Interesting Video and I'd love to see you printing the EVA.😄
But a quick Google research shows, that Braskem offers EVA Filament - seems to be a very interesting alternative to Colorfabb Varioshore TPU, which is also a bit nasty to print, but I like it a lot for cosplay and Furry stuff 😁
So why aren't you printing a Furry mask out of the EVA? Would also fit perfectly to the size of the Prusa XL 😉
This is cool, but how do you think Co-Prints Chroma system will do with something like this? I backed the project back in December after watching your coverage on it, and got 2 kits that will do 8 filaments each. Really excited for them to start shipping in a few months. Prusa certainly has the advantage in being able to have multiple nozzle sizes as well. Which is honestly a big advantage. If only it wasn't $3500-$4000. Maybe I can justify it someday. lol
This is great. We're another step closer to having true replicators. If we're talking printable foam, then I'm thinking, custom fit pads for sports, helmets, and possibly custom Nerf-likes.
Printing a couple of EVA FOAM Iron Man Gauntlets would be cool. I've seen cosplayers use TPU for the gloves in the past, but sanding that stuff smooth (before they applied PlastiDip paint/details) was a pain. EVA foam would be a lot easier for that final smoothing process, right?
Joel: regarding the "material bleeding" you experienced in the phone stand, this is an issue with mesh generation that I reported a few weeks ago and has recently been fixed in PrusaSlicer 2.7.2-alpha2. Happy multi material printing!
12:02: A Harry Phonestand? It's missing the lightning on the top!
Regarding EVA Foam filament, does it foam out like the lightweight PLA? If so, maybe try an actual floating Benchy with it? Something that uses the foam of it to expand the volume to make something super lightweight, while printing a water tight shell of PET on the outside, for instance?
Hi. It would be interesting to print a table tennis racket. Multimaterial print with TPU playing surface.
Found EVA Bio Based filament on Amazon for 50$ for 700g Xteller is the brand.
Been doing this on my e3d tool changer for a while. Works well, but E3D support for the TC was absolutely dreadful. But the platform itself is decent. Its right they dont sell it anymore because they refused to support it. But the Prusa XL is just too damn expensive for what it is.
Flexible PLA is that food safe?
The problem with the EVA foam is you probably want it because it's light and you want to make something big. Unfortunately that'd be wasting it.
Awesome video Joel. I have had great success on my XL when printing TPU with PLA supports. I used the dissolvable filament option in PrusaSlicer with 0.1mm offset. Prusa Support Chat was a great help with this idea.
Thank you for showing what the XL can do.
I would like to see the 5 heads actually in printing, Also EVA is available what is the difference with "Foam" just buy the EVA filament.
I wonder if you could use a sacrificial piece of PETG or PLA with the super rubbery TPU either glued of melted together, where the more ridged filament serves as a sort of "snake" to pull the TPU up through to the extruder.
Awesome...pushing the envelope for 3D printing, again! :)
I love the tests you've run so far. I would love in the future to see more details about multi-material printing. One question in particular would be more detail on the compatibility of different materials, and whether there are tweaks that can be done in slicing to improve the situation, e.g. nudging the print temps a little higher so dissimilar materials bond better.
Another question I have is if and how to manage cooling settings in the slicer when there are different materials being put down for a layer. We already have slicer options to fine-tune cooling according to how large the print is, i.e. how long a given layer takes to print, but multi-material introduces all new issues around cooling rates depending on the cooling fan vs. ambient cooling while the print head is somewhere else, that sort of thing.
A year ago i recall Cura having TPU interlocking features .. but i haven't seen that since. Have newer slicers abandoned that option?
EVA Foam is often used in footwear, it would be amazing if you tried to print a sneaker or at least the sole of one!! Maybe you can even collaborate with Seth Fowler, he's a sneaker youtuber that has been 3D Printing shoes for a while now 👟
Bonjour,
Avez-vous des réglages pour le tpu?
Mes impressions font pleins de filaments sur le chemin de la pièce et l’outil !
I hope some other company makes a real multi material printer as well, cause the price of the 5 tool Prusa XL is insane compared to other printers. If Bambu or some other Chinese company made one it would probably cost less than half as much.
the EV foam would make a good thermal insulator, so maybe a helmet on the Prusa XL with carbon fiber something or another for the outer shell, transparent for a visor, and that super soft stuff for the inside cushion. To make it Unique, shape it like a skull or monster or cartoon character or something.
3:13 You chose Star Wars as something with not many Leias?
Jeez, she's only been gone a few years 😂
I have been using the flexible pla for a while now. It really works great! It will stick to pei way too hard and i made a video about that. Many materials that stick too hard to pei are better printed on the steel side of the spring sheet. They stick well enough and come off much easier when cooled. Flashforge also makes a flexible pla that works really well. Here is my video on filaments that stick too well to pei ruclips.net/video/LIKwJSrS2VY/видео.html
can Prusa XL print interlocking structure? like this: ruclips.net/video/VBORBnpVwz8/видео.htmlsi=uPHVdkND8uIpO24p&t=180
I'm on version two of a custom phone case. I print 4mm in petg and the rest is tpu. The first one lasted a year and a half on test pritlnt settings. This one is on month 4 and solid as a brick.
I even made cutouts to access all the ports, sensors, buttons, stylus and mics on the phone.
Real multimaterial printing seems pretty cool, but how will it be if you need to recycle that stuff (f.e. pellet extruder), can you just peel it apart?
235c ive found to be a sweet spot for my anycubic kobra neo and ender 3 No fan speed is important. Bigger surface area helps when connecting too.
To have the tpu and pla stick together you can use a dovetail joint in your modeling between the two material so they would physically stick together
Wondering if you could make a flexible helmet, with rigid internal support?
I put à drop of IPA on the build plate to help release tpu. It goes under the print by capilarity and it goes from very hard to take out of the build plate to relatively easy. Hopes it helps
So you cant geometrically lock multi-material stuff ?
Not with the painting. Not yet. But if you build the models yourself, you can!
@@3DPrintingNerd i create the models my self. Can you share an example of this ? should i export 2 stls ?
RC tires and rims, printed as a single piece, would be awesome! No more foam center, just set the infill and walls for firmness.
yeah already tired of the front loaded in the vid unavoidable adspot, itd be less annoying near the end or anywhere but the 1st 14 seconds. time to move on i guess, not that 1 person dropping means anything
I guess there are some lucky XL owner with working machines. Mine is 3 months and has not printed anything.
So, who going to break it to Zack at Voidstar that there's an EVA filament and there's no way to get more? 😅
ok I know the XL is big, but for some reason it looks bigger than normal in your videos. lol
Print the perfect packaging peanut with Eva foam! ;)
This is exactly what I want a printer to do. Now all I need to do is to sell a kidney...
Lets see when there will be cheaper versions of it as right now it’s a bit more on the expensive side.
Print either a bracer or a finger of a gauntlet with that EVA foam filament.
Fiberlogy flex IS NOT TPU. It's block polyester-polyether elastomer. So more like TPC-ET (Thermoplastic copolyester - polyether block co polymer). Similar to Hytrel. It should play nice with other polyesters like PETG, PBT, PCTG and PLA.
Oh whoa, didn’t know that thank you!
Remember Joel, there’s no Spool like an Old Spool!
Love the new space. Much bigger than I expected.
With that much space, you should think about making a large-scale filament drier/storage unit.
EVA foam filament... you still have that stuff? Nice.
I'd try making something you can have fun throwing at people. Maybe a spiky golf ball?
Nerf darts....?
That EVA Foam filament is interesting. I wonder how it would work in one of those print in place expanding swords. Hard outer shell but a soft inner "blade".
Remember, foam can be made from EVA, but all EVA is not foam.
just print a small test cube with the eva so you can atleast see how it performs
Prusa xl looks ridiculous! Wish I had the 💵 to get one 😢
I just bought some flexible PLA… I tried a Benchy but it wound up a blobby boat… I have since dried the filament but haven’t had a chance to try again. I also couldn’t get anything to print after I got it all out of the machine (I also tried it in the AMS, which was a huge mistake); it turns out the filament remnant that my P1S would normally purge after cutting it, was completely stuck in the nozzle. Before all that I had tried to heat the nozzle up to 300° C to get any remnants to melt out of it, but nothing came out so I (mistakenly) assumed it was clear; it definitely was not! lol 😂
I’m definitely going to try again with it soon, but I have several more important projects to work on at the moment :)
Holy cow!
Please someone refer reliable 30x30x30cm printer. XL im not interested at this price point.
I’m using 7 MK3S+ , IM looking for same or closer reliability.
Hello, you don't have to order the XL with 5 tool heads. You can start with one and the price will be about double what you paid for MK3s+. Even with one tool head, you will get the big print area, input shaping, and all the other features. And we already offer upgrades to more tool heads if you need them later.
You shouldn’t be using a purge tower with multi materials! In fact, you do not need a purge tower at all with the XL. Change each extruder’s “retract while parked” to 11.7mm. This will lift the filament up out of the meltzone, thus allowing you to ditch the purge tower. Come on J!!
I’ll have a look at that setting!
You have made prosthetic hands before, try inner “working” rigid and outer flexible ? Maybe a wearable gauntlet switching inside outside materials?
I love this idea!
PS's material painting is bugged. Every now and then you get a random line like that. And it's in the gcode. You can see it in the preview. I found just by rotating the model (z axis only is fine) it often fixes these issues.
It should be fixed in the next version of Prusaslicer
Hey Joel Amazon has FPLA. From Ataraxia. its $29.99 per Kg.
Yeah they do!
I kept wondering how it would have been printing PPE face shield bands with a couple layers of flexible to make them even moderately more comfortable.
Wouldn’t that have been cool?
I thought we were going to go into a sponsor advert at 9:00 lol
I’m wondering if this can be done on the Bambu A1 Mini Combo. That Prusa XL is super expensive
You can with PLA and PETG but Bambu says to not use flexibles with the AMS / AMS Lite. You can always try?
can you do .2 nozel on one and a .4 on a different one?
Why does it have a waste tower? I thought one of the pluses of multi extruders was you didn't need to waste filament priming/color changing?
Hi! Currently, a small prime tower to stabilize the pressure in the nozzle before printing is still recommended, though we're getting closer and closer to making wasteless multi-material printing reliable enough for everyone to use. Stay tuned!
Dominik
Prusa Research
I get where the new format is heading, really trying to showcase the way 3d printing could be, or it already is the new AI big of a change, and we need to question the importance of it. If the 3d printer becomes as successful as a normal 2d printer, we are set for an interesting future.
Very interesting!
Joel, would you buy a prusa XL? Im a hobbiest with many printers and want to multicolor print to go from hobby to side hustle
I did buy an XL :)
Prusa recommend using glue stick on the textured sheets when printing TPU for easy removal
I suppose I should read the manual ;)
To get a flexible print of the bed easily, drip some alcohol around then edges and it comes off after a few minutes without the risk of damaging the build plate.
That’s what others have said too!
7:42 Do you have a link for the video referenced here?
Would "chilling the Flexable Filament make it stiff enough to feed? Put the filament in the fridge for an hour?
Someone else suggested it and I’ll have to try it.
Soluble parts is all I'm gonna say
EVA foam mickey mouse gloves