The Prusa XL Experiments - 5 Tools, 5 Materials
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- Опубликовано: 31 май 2024
- What can the Prusa XL really do? Let's find out! In this video I put the tool changer to work, experimenting with different material combinations for some truly unique results.
Watch the full Prusa XL series: • Prusa XL
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00:00 Introduction
00:27 The Findings
00:51 The Early Days
01:21 PLA
02:20 2 Colors PLA
02:31 The Differentiating Factor
03:27 2 Colors PLA + PETG Supports
04:21 The Z Banding Issue
05:38 3 + 2 Colors PLA
06:48 2 Colors PLA + PETG Supports
07:12 PETG Support for PLA - Does It Work?
07:46 Material Mixing on Wipe Tower - Pro Tip
08:15 5 Colors PLA
09:03 PETG + TPU
09:44 3 Colors PETG + TPU
10:44 PLA + TPU + PETG
12:04 Tool Changing Issues
12:33 PLA + TPU + Soluble
13:17 PLA + ABS + Soluble
14:36 4 Colors PLA
15:13 Rarely Perfect First Layer?
16:00 Bed Heater Timeout
16:37 All Hail The Glue Stick
17:03 Filament Runout = Layer Shifts ?
17:30 The Grand Finale
18:20 2x TPU + 2x PETG + PLA
20:14 What I Learned
21:53 What Makes the XL Special
22:45 Conclusion 
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I received my 0.4 Prusa XL recently, and so far without any tweaking I havent had any banding, stringing, or toolhead errors. It seems like they've been steadily improving the reliability and I'm impressed with how well it works now.
Do you have he .4mm or .6mm nozzles?
@@ashleys3dprintshop it was the 4th word in his comment bud.
@@ashleys3dprintshop I have the 0.4mm nozzles
@@21area21 Lol. Senior moment. I didn't get the whole question out either.
This should have been an thread comment not a reply. I wanted to ask TGK3D if he had the smaller nozzles.
@@ashleys3dprintshop oh shit. Mb on my kinda aggressive reply lol. 😅
It still feels like you're beta testing this product in public.
This is the first machine of its kind, and one of the first ones delivered as well. If you want something battle tested, then you should always wait for other people to test it rather than go by hype.
This isn't unique to Prusa, every company goes through this unless the design is so ubiquitous that there is nothing to get wrong with it.
I thought the same. Except the first Benchy, no print was flawless. And 48 minutes for a Benchy is nowadays not the very best result.
Just wondering why people pay to do a beta test. And why Prusa „rushed*“ this product to market. My old work horse MK3S+ just printed good. Slow, but good.
* It was teased too early, shipped too late and developed too short. But rushed into market.
@@carlosjosejimenezbermudez9255 E3D released theirs years ago and there are also some open source takes on tool changing. Un aligned Toolheads should not even be in a beta test product. That's like the number one thing a toolchanger needs to be good at. I am glad that many things are just software problems but i am also worried that there might be some more hardware related problems that degrade quality that will be harder to upgrade later.
My guess is that prusa is also somewhat relying on the community to find bugs and suggestions. The greasing is one such thing he found and prusa added to their docs.
@@carlosjosejimenezbermudez9255 yeah CNC machine with tool head changing..... first of its kinda? bit of stretch there buddy. In-fact its surprising how badly executed Prusa has done an age old design. But you know overpriced 3d parts is just the prusa way
@@MultiRmetalexactly. Fanboyz will be fanboyz. This is the only thing Prusa has to offer, its half baked. Even Voron is coming w tool head changers. Joseph about to get his lunch ate.
I‘m glad prusa managed to reduce the amount of waste on the color/material change, considering the amount of waste created with all the failed prints…
This is the best video on the XL I’ve watched so far.
Seriously impressive overview of the capabilities of the printer and the issues you faced. Nice work!
Thank you my friend. Much appreciated!
Great video. I liked the story you told and how you presented the progression. I've been watching XL related items and felt this was worth the watch.
Thank you very much!
Prusa should ship out .4mm nozzles to all the early purchasers who got the .6mm nozzles or give store credit for the same amount.
they are discounted
Love to see this type of video as I await my own XL. I’m glad it’s getting better and things like the bump hack you put in place are no longer needed. Hoping that by the end of year they really dial this in, but time will tell. Ultimately I’d love to see Bambu x1c speeds and quality just on this device.
The bump hack seems to be unique to his machine, mine never needed such adjustments. I have also never had to grease my 3 alignment pins on the toolhead, and my tool alignment is perfect. I don't have layer shifting, or any kind of over/under extrusion. The XL is not all bad, but it does appear that there is some bad units out there.
Appreciate your thorough reviews and experimentations ! thanks
Thank you!
Thank you for your hard work on all of this. Great job!
Thank you very much!
Thanks for this review 👍 I cant believe that a 4000€ printer has this kind of QC I rather buy a Ratrig a Voron and a X1 Carbon altogether for this price and stil not worry of failed prints. I feel your pain...✊
@6:20 On bambu printers, you can print by object, instead of layer, but this requires the pieces to fit on the bed and the pieces to be small enough that the print head doesn't hit the print.
Not saying it's better, just putting out another option for people who don't know.
Excellent tests & analysis, very in-depth
Thank you very much!
Nice video. Appreciate your insights and tips.
Thank you!
The video is of exceptional quality and provides intricate details. I express my gratitude for your contribution.
Thank you very much!
Thank you so much. It confirms that I made the best decision a year ago to cancel my XL order and buy an X1 Carbon. I have several now, and probably for less total than I would have paid for one XL.
I canceled my mk4 order, got a bambu also, havent looked back, have an A1 mini w 4 color ams also for less than the Prusa offering.
@@tombo7719bambu is 🤴 right now!
This dude assembled his printer wrong and thinks the best course of action is to have his toolheads crash into his frame to self align. I wouldn't trust his opinion.
@@LilApe can you show where it was not assembled correctly. Thank you
"This dude" reads the comments and doesn't appreciate this rhetoric. Pretty far off base for a minor assembly issue that I corrected and addressed long ago. The bump solution was the best fix at the time. If you don't trust my opinion, you should probably stop watching my videos ;)
Wow very detailed explanation thank you for sharing!
Thank you!
Opossum is the best print! The head looks awesome!
That was an excellent video. My 2T is producing prints for customers daily and I really regret not getting the 5T to start. Can’t wait for update!
Printer has worked very well for me with almost no stringing. Using Polyterra PLA and Prusament.
Thank you!
I don’t know if you have done this yet, but you can now buy upgrade kits from prusa to get 5T.
Wow, nice in-depth video. I have a prusa Mk3s that makes great prints. What I have been seeing with the XL all over the place is it is almost as dependable as the MK3. I mean every print from most all makers is that there is something wrong in every print. Some small thing that just makes it not sellable to a client but good enough for you not to throw away. It is disappointing .
The story seems to be the same with every RUclipsr that shows their work. This machine is not ready for prime time. For $5K, I don’t want a machine that will be great some day in the future.
Yeah I agree. I think by the time the XL2 comes along, or if Bambu decides to take on multi-toolhead printers, then this technology will be ready. I use to tinker with my MK3s all the time. Ever since getting an X1C, I just use it as a tool. It sits in my closet. I send jobs to it and pick it up later. I don't need to baby sit the printer. It just works. I certainly don't fancy dropping $5k and then have to tinker and worry about it not working in so many scenarios.
I've had the same docking issue. The cause was the docs were slightly loose. I could manually move the dock ever so slightly and feel it popping in and out of the notch the dock is supposed to be pulled into by the screw. The screw is just barely long enough to catch on the nut side so there's not a lot of friction holding the threads. Blue loctite solved my issue and the docks don't move anymore. Haven't had a tool fall off since.
Just be careful with loctite as it makes plastics become brittle!
Nice video! I changed to 0.4 nozzles on my 5 tool head XL. I’ve had no problems with mine.
Glad to see XL being more polished but still I've got uncompleted 2T XL purchase sitting from december 23 just because I am waiting for the enclosure release. I don't understand why such complex machine at such price tag doesn't have enclosure by default. From my experience enclosure for 360mm3 build volume is mandatory (even for PLA) in cold environment, not optional. If want to thinker I would go for Voron.. I mean 3000$ price tag (incl. shipping + tax) is not thinker machine.
because of 2 reasons 1) the video where joel telling cut off the front of an ender 7, and 2) because jo prusa thought that being able to reach into the printer to take parts out was more important than building a more functionally rigid printer with a proper cube frame that would reduce ringing and make self enclosure easy.
Great video, thanks for sharing! I'm very excited to start my multi-material journey! I have a 5-head XL and it has been nothing but AMAZING! I was a 2nd week preorder so I rx'd mine in December with the 0.6mm nozzles. It honestly from the start has been incredible. I have been fortunate to not have experienced many if any at all. The stringing has been pretty mild, but all has been pretty well soved by adjusting temp based on the filament brand and drying my filament a bit more..
This thing is a multicolor BEAST! I have a X1 Carbon and don't get me wrong, it's great, but the TIME & Material I save using the XL it's beyond worth it! I'm having too much fun/success w/the 0.6mm nozzles, so I have yet to swap them out for the 0.4mms, I just stick with the X1C for the more detailed prints.
I would LOVE see/grab some of your experiment's G-Code from Printables!
Cheers and thanks again!
Thank you! All of the models can be found around the internet on Printables, Thingiverse, etc. I just sliced them with default settings for the most part. If there’s any specific model you want a link to, let me know, but most of them should be easy enough to locate by searching.
Great video, thanks!
Awesome video! Nice job!
Thank you!
Extremely happy that I skipped my Prusa XL preorder and shortly before finalizing decided for the Bambu X1C. By far the printer with the least issues I ever had. Just pure printing fun from day 1 and amazing software! Is it perfect? No. But the closest to perfect I got so far. If I see all the issue that first customers had to go through with the XL - I am so happy I skipped that "experience". I was concerned that this machine was far from a "finished" product and raised my concerns in the Prusa Forum. The marketing and media strategy shortly before and at launch ... or better the lack of ... was very sketchy. And one can clearly see why now - because especially at the time they were not confident to have a "finished" product. The idea of the XL is great and I am sure with more time and tweaking Prusa can get there. But in the meantime I enjoy my X1C.
great summary, I also get imperfect first layers that would be fine for many other printers but are not what they promised.
Your advice here is very helpful. Thanks for doing all this testing. I want to try that possum if I can find the model.
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching. The possum is from MatMire Makes.
I still keep trying to see if this printer is actually worth it. For $3500-4000 to print PLA/PETG/TPU in multifilament is insane.(not touching ABS without an enclosure/ventilation)
In most of your examples you can get
7 A1 printers with ams lite ($3920)
4 p1s printers with ams ($3800)
2 X1C and 2 A1 printers with AMS/amslite ($4020)
Even with the overall speed increase of a single XL vs a single Bambu multicolor print, it wont beat 4-7 printers in any calculation.
yet you could not do what this does even with 100 a1 printers... different tools... not comparable. its like comparing a car to an air fryer by price...
@@LimpiezasMyG Based on this logic it looks like this printer can barely print the models "it's good at printing". 🤣Once this thing starts multifilament printing it's a crap shoot of whether you will have a decent product. 3:36 5:51 7:05
At some point even the successful prints had issues. 10:19 15:21
People have been designing parts on smaller printers for ages to combine into larger prints. Sure there are the models where this could be impossible(Tire) but 4k and 3 days later, can you say that was successful? 19:43?
7 *256 cubed* printers running simultaneously vs 1 360mm cubed
But think outside the box not all of these need to be printed at the same time on the same printer.
Heck for a large 400mm or 500mm tpu printer can be purchased around $500-$1000 bucks. So you are right different tools for different jobs. But ask yourself this is this the right tool(XL) for most of these jobs?
@@No0o0o0o0o0 I agree. The amount of failures for a printer of this cost is just crazy.
Cool video. I can understand your frustration with having to order new nozzles for such an expensive and delayed machine. Those problems with the first layer are disappointing.
Makes me so eager to get mine in April!
Amazing video! I love this way of using multi material filaments. It would be incredible if they could implement the use of multi nozzles, such as infill with a 0.6mm and details with 0.2mm; that would be sick. However, most importantly, I hope Prusa can fine-tune the printer soon, as it still feels somewhat unpolished given its price.
Thank you!
I would love this to work well. Running everything through one extruder on the X1C has a few downsides - time, wastage and with the default purge volumes printing black and white will leave grey banding on the white so you have to dial it up even more. On the other hand the X1C just worked right out of the box. I run all kinds of filament, cheap or not, through it with no problems. Thanks for the video.
16:25 that is so unacceptable with the wait times especially
really cool showcase of the goods and the bars. Really helps me understand the pros and cons vs my X1C w dual AMS. I’d love it if I could print that possum but on the other hand I love how the AMS can auto switch spools when one runs out.
As usual “do both” (have XL and X1C) is a good move hehe
Thank you! 😊
Where did you get the spine and hand files? I want to give those a try
On my X1C, I've found that reducing the print speed of support interface layers to 30mm/s (from 80 default) makes a HUGE difference in PETG/PLA support success. I think of it a little like going slower on the first layer adhering to the build platform - also two different plastics.
Interesting. I’ll have to try that. Thanks for sharing!
On your short I suggested anchoring the hub to the tire with very thin cylinder - much like how 3d print bunny does her tensegritty models. If they’re are 0.6mm wide you could snip off and probably not notice them in final cleanup.
for the docking issue, check the cable bundle of the next tool over. The OEM clips put the cable right in the way of the puppy board cover. At the very least, they rub against each other, and it's worth replacing the clip at the back to avoid that. I wonder if your tool his colliding with the cable bundle enough to cause docking issues.
Thanks! I’ll give that a shot.
@@ygk3d I printed the "Prusa XL series: Cable protecting toolbase clip (must have)" by surfalex2000 (along with other models of his for the XL).
Star shaped prime tower with 5 points so each point has a material with a minor interlock so that it stays together. Or allow multiple tower based on the differing prints ie 3 for pla, petg and Pva
For multiple objects of differing colors with Bambu Studio or Orca (idk about PrusaSlicer), you can just print by object, as long as you have room on the plate… no need to separate them to different plates/jobs. Just saying that to make it a more accurate comparison to the XL.
I wonder if closed loop steppers could help with some of the artifacts from running out of filament and having to swap in some new stuff. Clised loop steppers are somrthing i am really wanting to get into.
There is no reason closed loop steppers should be necessary, when changing filament you should only be touching the hot end and hence only the X and Y steppers should be touched, then if your homing is as reliable as it should be then you should just be able to home and then carry on printing with no artefacts. Going to closed loop steppers sounds like upgrading parts to fix a problem that could be solved with just a better built printer.
Also when I use PLA as support material for PETG and vice versa, I only use the alternate material as an interface layer (or two or three layers usually)… that would definitely help print times and potential adhesion issues. It’s the same way Bambu recommends using their support filaments.
How do you tell the slicer to use a specific toolhead (filament) for support
It’s something I could use for my terrain making. I would be able to print in one shot multi-material working mechanism.
Regarding the first layer issues, I have found that on my XL the nozzle temperature befor probing the bed was high enough that it caused the nozzle to ooze. The little blop would then be squished while the "cleaning nozzle" step but would sometimes mess up the probing resulting in mostly too high z for the first layer in the locations where the tiny blob was most prominent. I went to the prusa chat which was not very helpful and told me that one has to clean the nozzle every time right befor the probing starts - not befor the print but that one has to stand next to the printer with pliers and right wenn the nozzle goes down to "clean" the nozzle one has to remove the blop. Sometimes this works but not reliable and obviously not when starting a print via prusa connect if you are not home.
I since have dropped the temperature befor probing from 170° to 150°C for most materials and do have very good and consistent first layers even though I would appreciate a way to modify the amount of "squished" as the manual way to tune Z on the XL has to be done for every print or at least is not saved when turning the printer off. I also installed the wire brushes at the back of the printer which also help to keep the nozzles clean in the first place.
Do you see the blop on your nozzles befor the "nozzle cleaning" or am I an exception? (Using Prusament)
This is exactly what I think is messing with every printer that uses the nozzle to probe. I guess there just is no perfect and 100% reliable way to measure nozzle distance.
I have great results with the dock approach, where the toolhead docks a microswitch. But that needs dialed in offsets. My Bambu seems to have no issue this far with a blob on the nozzle, but sometimes the first layer is squished a bit.
Maybe with external measurement but that would be way to expensive to put into any hobbyist hardware :D
Thanks for sharing your experience. I have definitely noticed the pre-print ooze. I suspect you’re right about this being the culprit behind poor mesh bed leveling. Lowering the temperature seems like it would prevent oozing, but if the blob already exists, it wouldn’t be hot enough to squish it at the lower temperature I wouldn’t think.
@@ygk3d The MK4 can have this issue as well. You need to make sure the nozzle is clean. During preheat I'll bump the temp up to printing temperature for a few in order to clean the nozzle before the print starts. I print with lots of petg and it's notorious for oozing.
For my XL I printed out a brush that mounts to the bed and I plan to insert custom G-Code at the start of the print to wipe the nozzle on it. Check printables, there's a few different designs out there. I printed the one that uses a silicone brush from a Bambu labs printer.
I have a MK4 that I never clean the nozzle before a print and run the stock temperature for cleaning and probing. Only two times had a nozzle cleaning issue. Perfect 1st layer 99.9 percent of the time. Many hundreds of perfect prints. Maybe just luck. But I have not released my 2 year old XL order yet because of the people having so many problems. It does seem to be a mixed bag some bad, some good experiences.
@@benkeller3 That's great. I think the filament being used plays a big part here. Some brands seem to ooze more than others, even after being dried.
I'm planning to install a nozzle wiper and put start G-Code in to automatically wipe the nozzle before every print.
In my experience with Mk3s PLA is always unreliable on textured PEI. Satin and smooth PEI are both much better. My guess is that your switch to the satin plate would've solved your adhesion problems even without the glue stick.
16:11 looks like high-tech roadkill. 😀
The nozzle probing is really a cause of failure. As the nozzle is heated during probing, in my case a slight amount of filament oozes out of the nozzle. When I notice this, I try to remove it from the nozzle tip with a pair of tweezers. I also modified the start gcode to park the tool head during heat absorbtion. Some of the filament also oozes on the print bed, when the tool head stays over the print bed. in nearly 50% of the prints, this causes the nozzle cleaning to fail. This seems to apply more to PETG than PLA.
2 things. Best print, I like the MASK. Looks clean and really shows the capabilities of the XL with no explanation needed, kind of the wow factor . The prime tower would be great if you could just make a REAL print with it, not the tower. If you are making a lizard just make one you want and the other in the tower material not caring where the colors land. Could make usable parts with the tower material if able to tell it what it is supposed to be instead of a tower.
you can do a model instead of a prime tower... it will be just color mixed
The a1 mini is most impressive thing in the video
😂
I wonder if the tool dock issues or collisions cause drift in the XY alignment (or will eventually cause issues) 🤔
Have you done any benchmark testing for part dimensional accuracy and high tolerance fitments of multiple small parts? I use MK3S+ machines at work and they are very accurate, is the XL the same level of accuracy?
Not yet so can't speak on that unfortunately.
how much does imput shaper speed up gyroid infill comparid to without input shaper.
I can't even afford a new creality printer and stuck with a 5 year old e5 and here these guys are with all the new modern tech.
After watching this, I am really doubting FDM printers in general. I recently switched to resin printing and I am never looking back - the quality and detail is just miles better than FDM printers. It hurst to see, that even the latest printers from company like Prusa can be a big pain in the butt at this age with all of the technological achievements...
have you retightened your screws after running the machine for a while after your first assembly? your output is so much worse off than my set for whatever reason
Which screws are you referring to? The early prints I showed were before the z banding fix. In the later prints the quality is much better.
Is there a way to move the filament run out sensor so its in the print head itself? I feel that it would be much better that way.
Other than that thank you for being fair to the printer. You seem to be having a better time with it.
I have my eye on it for the multi material capability, not the multi color one but it’s good to be able to do it.
The issues with the seam line when you run out of filament is a head scratcher though. I wonder what’s the cause.
Also, even on the MK3 I had a harder time with 0.6mm nozzles and I always had to use hair spray. Some things wont change I guess.
You could consider sorting the filament rolls in the Background. Otherwise great results, my personal experience is that wet filament can also mess up the first layer because of leakage through the nozzle.
Thanks for the video! How is the quality and finish of the XL prints compared to the mk4 and X1C?
In recent prints, now that most of the issues are worked out, the quality is similar. Tool changing will always reduce layer stacking quality, so in that regard it’s not quite as good.
@@ygk3d Thank you very much for the feedback! Are you saying there is a noticeable layer shift when changing tools?
@@MOVIEKICKS not layer shifts. Just layer stacking that isn’t quite as consistent. It’s only noticeable if you look close. For most purposes, it’s fine. The early examples I showed in this video aren’t representative of the true print quality. Those had early adopter issues that have since been resolved. The only time I’m seeing actual layer shifts is during filament changes. Hopefully that can be resolved with a firmware update.
Not sure how support work in Prusa slicer for multilateral and support. In orca you can print all support in same material as the model it self and just use petg or something else and the interface layer on the support. It saves time in tool changes or material changes.
this is why i am waiting until the new updated prusa XL, to many tweaks that are needed
On idex I use purge buckets, it solves any purge tower issues.
Well brand of filament makes absolute a difference. Like me personally I can not print with Prusa filament, I might be so used to crappy filaments that "good" filament from Prusa never works on any of my printers and settings I am used to. Hence the reverse might totally possible, that this printer and sliced settings are Prusa specifig.
I'm glad you're having success. What I'm seeing is a lot of forgiveness for issues. The comment that an idex can't do this, not entirely accurate. I had build a double idex in 2018, so not 5, but 4 tools and with my system, I only need to use prime tower for petg. Never used it with pla, the parking mechanism on the xl is hmm...not what i would expect in 2024. My design 5 years ago which I haven't changed allows for zero waste. Also, what is this nonsense with needing high end filament. I've been using various price points of filament with my quad, also using .6 nozzles and never had stringing or failures like I've seen with the xl. The xl seems like a project printer. E3d had a tool changer platform in 2020, that was a project, this should be FINISHED. It's not being sold as a project, it's being sold as a commercial production machine. This feels like it's a pre release model with features not being finished. My project quad I built originally in 2018 never had these issues, go figure 2018 still using a bl touch and perfect first layers for 6 years on 600 mm square bed. A friend of mine asked me if I would replace my quad with the xl. The more I see of it, the more I feel some weirdness. How come a come prusa research 6 years later releases a machine more raw than even my first iteration of my quad. I've since replace most or the plastic parts with cnc machined parts. I am able to do this, and prusa can't?
Interesting perspective. I’ve never heard of an IDEX printer with more then two tools - sounds really neat. You’re not wrong in your overall analysis. I have a positive outlook because issues make for good content, but if I was just a regular consumer I probably wouldn’t be so forgiving.
eSun PVA works fine the X1C. Just had to respool it and dry it.
17:10 - how is the frame stiffness? Seeing this move has me a bit concerned.
Do you think a heated chamber would create better prints?
Unfortunately, any filament saved using the XL is wasted with the sheer amount of failed prints. Sad to see every XL video turns into a trouble shooting session.
Its funny Prusa used to be the set it and forget it brand and now Bambulab has completely overtaken it in that regard.
It makes me genuinely sad how unpolished the XL has been since launch. I was really hoping to see something as capable as the E3D TC but with the Prusa convenience touch… instead I feel like this thing has the QC of a creality machine with the price tag of a damn Ultimaker.
That last sentence is brutal but feels so accurate.
I have the same issue with the perfect 1st layer. It is really not perfect unfortunately..
Well if it makes you feel any better about the nozzles, i bought 5 .4mm nozzles when they were in sale, to then find out that my printer was coming with them.
Oh well, i have spares now.
Did you buy the ObXidian ones at least? Or just more brass?
@@ygk3d Just Brass. I've had good luck with them over the years. I don't really print much that requires a hardend nozzle. If I got 1 I probably would only get it for 1 print head.
@@ygk3d 5 ObXidian .4mm nozzles here. They've been working extremely well so far.
Get with prusa support and they will credit you back for the nozzles.
So, seems it"s not there yet... Released way too early, just like K1. Thanks Bambu for shaking the market :)
8:28 what is all that on the build plate?
Support material that has been removed.
Prusa XL seems to be a defective printer... its performance does not meet its price.
Are there any other multi-tool head competitors in this space?
@@fursphere2 IDEX... but even the 1 tool head XL costs more then most IDEX. Then you have AMS systems from Bambu which are good... but downside is they don't support TPU.
@@givemeanameman1 multicolor is not multi tool head. Completely different animals.
In the 350mm cubed class corexy machines, I don’t think there is anything, even in single tool head.
DIY stuff like Vorons and Ratrigs. But nothing vendor supported like a Prusa.
Just because there are no other competitors doesn't mean its a good product. In fact, the opposite is probably true.@@fursphere2
@@fursphere2 WRONG you say multi "colour" but AMS is multi material.
It does the same thing as the Prusa XL... just in a different manner.
Prusa XL multi head approach is suppose to provide faster total print speeds with far less waste(poop).
The Problem
The plastic and time the XL saves per print, is more then lost per failed print vs the X1C with AMS which costs less.
Thats not acceptable for a printer thats not a hobbiest printer but priced and aimed as actual production unit for production.
People are getting over 80% success rate for larger multi material prints with the X1C over 6 months of use.
~50% success rate with the XL.
Puedes configurar imprimir el relleno primero con los colores anteriores, para ahorrar material y no necesitas imprimir la torre de colores... 👍🏻 (Ahorras material y mucho tiempo de impresion)
love to tool head but I think ill wait for the bambu lab implementation (I'm happy to waist filament in an with the ams given how much more reliable it is)
Thanks for the video. You say Plagued weird. I thought you said flagged.
Haha thanks. That will be my new fun fact about myself 😂
The bed levelling issue is because the nozzle leaks filament while levelling, chang 17:14 changing the idle temp in the start gcode to 100C fixes ir permanently. Also the PEI seems to be the only good plate for pla, the same gcode on satin sheet warped for me.
We are sharing a lot of the issues, really disappointing launch.
Where can I find the mask’s stl ?
Chelsea Creates Things on Thangs.
I've seen companies release a product as a beta product so you know what you're getting yourself into. That would have been the right thing to do with the prusa XL and probably the mk 4 as well
Sometimes those are not layer shifts, its just the material expanded/contracted from sitting cold for a long time. Ex: the rat is not a layer shift
Ah, good point.
“Most of this things wouldn’t even existed if not for the pxl” is a bit of an overstatement mate.. 😂😂
Thank you for convincing me not to buy one 🙏
By that I meant that I wouldn’t have even attempted them on my other multi-colour / material capable printers. These things would take days on a Bambu printer, versus hours on the XL, and that’s if they would fit, which not all of them would.
You need an enclosure if Petg come off the sheet bed. It’s convection heat transfer issue.
Hah, if you think PETg and TPU are about the best bonding together wait until you try TPU and Nylon printed hot...
You'll also get much better bonding with more heat between the materials + an enclosure which is an issue with the XL unfortunately. I print PETg and TPU together and the bond is so strong you can't break it across the bond layer even with pliers, the PETG will snap first.
Oooh interesting. Thanks for sharing!
@@ygk3d Yes, TPU and PETG seem to need some serious interface heat - I run as hot as I dare on chamber temps without risking a clog - 45c, and 270c on PETG and 260 on the TPU at the hot end. Both well dried, obviously.
That's for mechanical parts that go into car subframe assemblies, so it's under some fair load and enviromental conditions too.
You can get the bond strength up much higher with Argon shielding gas through the part cooling duct too (prevents the surface oxidising between the layers) but that has issues with any work area that's not well ventilated and no enclosure.
Nylon and TPU form a copolymer the interface gets strange, it almost mixes into a 3rd material.
That's awesome it is faster at multi color printing than the X1 Carbon but looks to me the print quality is not there. I would rather have a high quality print that takes longer than a low quality print that's faster.
It looks like the XL wasn't a ready product and they might have released too soon. At that price point, I was expecting to see alot better results and less hassle from the user. Hopefully Prusa will fix all those downsides and bring a more reliable machine. As a Prusa user (old i3) I wish to see them succeed since I love their open source philosophy and since they aren't Chinese based company but at the same time some competitors are eating them right now when you check cost-value.
I wonder if your results would've been different if you used fresh new filament??
there's no shame using glue. best thing ive ever tried
Please repeat this but only using PETG on the interface of the supports and using standard supports instead of the tree ones, or adding 7.5% infil to the support trees. The problem with big tree supports is that they bend easily affecting the structure, you just need to find a better support configuration for dual material supports when printing bigger structures...
Damn, I really wish I can convert my CR-10 to IDEX to make the complex prints I need 😞
I miss the material PVB,... I wonder with which material you could print that together... spoiler: not with PLA, tested that myself on the XL
Would be able to tell me the dimensions of the printer ?
This printer is the death sentence to the Bambulab X1 Carbon.
Fantastic!
Thanks for sharing
Best way to use multiple filaments printing
Thank you!
Ok guys, I admit this printer is one of a kind, hypothetically insane.
BUT ! How is it even acceptable for the brand to sell such an high end and expensive machine and having stringing and banding issues?? How? That's truly a shame. I hope they will one day make it professional friendly as the tool it is. Just print things with no need to be a 3D printing issue expert solver.
I wanted to purchase one, but what convinced me not to, was the 6 month wait time to get one ! I ended up getting an MK4, fantastic printer by the way. Although I'm still thinking of buying an XL
What is wrong with Prusa XL to have bad print quality. Print quality is worst than stock ender 3
This Prusa XL seems more like a tech demonstration more-so than a final product. The early adopters took a L on this one and hopefully for v2 these issues are ironed out.