Dude, you're the most innovative tool maker DIYer on RUclips!! Looking forward to the welding class. My 18 gauge metal arrived, so more practice tonight. Thanks for the tube bender link. Mac is starting to look a little impatient. Love the tennis balls.
Nice work. I've had to make replacement fuel lines out of copper tubing, and I have just soldered either brass or copper olives (designed for compression fittings) onto the ends of the tube to create the bead for the hoses to seal against. It seems to work fine and is very cheap and easy.
Really, really clever beading tool! It wasn’t clear to me at first but there are several balls employed, enough that stack up against the end of the screw.
Thanks for the video. I have heard of people refilling those bottles. I got certified at work to fill propane tanks for the forklifts. So I always was curious about refilling those small light weight bottles without a bleeder valve. I just throw them away. I like those small, refillable bottles. I might get a couple for camping.
Are there options other than brass tubing? Copper came to mind for utility use. Not sure if it works. Quite the same though. I would think easier but I could be wrong.
You can use anything, but steel and brass have the best crack and fatigue resistance. For example don't use copper for brake or fuel lines unless it's very well supported to the car. (Like every 6 inches)
Thank you! Porsche used brass tubing to route the oil to the front of the car and they also made the trombone oil cooler located behind the headlight. So of course you can❤️
I think your audience is smart enough to understand that making a part like this would require you to carefully wash it out to be dead certain there are no filings, sand or shot pellets lurking in the tube to sneak out and kill the engine, or am I mistaken about the use of this pipe?
@@GarageTimeAutoResto non-ferrous metals won’t harden if quenched. But it will look nasty till you put it in a pickle solution to clean the oxidation off. A cup of white vinegar and a tablespoon of salt in a crockpot with distilled water. Heater it up and soak the part for 20 minutes or so. The dip it in a bowl with distilled water and baking soda to neutralize.
@baronweber6801 I just googled this and here's what I got. Thin wall tubing doesn't need hours to heat soak either. Tempering Heat the brass to 565°C in an oven or kiln Leave it in the oven for at least two hours Remove the brass with heat-resistant gloves and tongs Let it cool on a firebrick or aluminum block for about three minutes Dip the brass in water for 8-10 seconds
Just an observation on your oxy-acetelyne silver soldering: you were running very rich indicated by the yellow flame. This generates a lot of soot (some actually floated past in the video!) and it'll contaminate the joint area leading to poor wetting and solder fluidity. Work hotter too, and allow the workpiece to melt the solder, not the flame... the solder should flow very freely. A bit of practice should improve your results no end.
I sprinkled a little lead shot with the sand throughout the entire tube length and capped it off with lead shot. It may not be a necessary step, but here's my thought process. 1). The lead shot can't displace very easily in the packed sand. I envisioned the sand and lead mixture getting pushed around while bending. 2) filling the ends with lead shot makes it easier to pack the sand by pounding with a brass punch. 3). The lead doesn't interfere with the soldering of the caps. I'm sure filling the entire tube with molten lead would also work, but that seems messy! By all means experiment with different methods. I certainly don't do this everyday and I'm sure there are more proven methods that also work.
Good question. I thought about trying to TIG this, but I don't have .040 silicon bronze rod. Not sure if it available to be honest. Silver solder is a much lower melting temperature and easier in my opinion. Lead solder is the easiest of them all. I have more projects like this to do, so maybe I'll try next time if I can find the right materials. Maybe using TIG as the heat source with shielding gas would have been better?
@@GarageTimeAutoRestoI went pretty far down that rabbit hole. You definitely don't want to try to weld brass. If you can help it take brazine would be good though. It would be slightly more difficult than silver solder, but you probably could get a paint ready joint if you're going for that kind of look. It gives you really nice looking Tig style bumps
Hard to tell as "Dremels" often don't play well with many mic to record video... Your old Dremel sound like has bearing(s) or brushes are bad when done actually cutting. Units with bad brushes may seem to work but eat the armature and make noise. Brushes wear out on some models sooner and may seem have carbon but not enough because of brush design. Bearing wear most often for cutting wheels, burrs and grinding making noise first, more so for noise bearing near the collet. You might feel a dying bearing when off as bearing play in different directions. "Knockoffs" rotor tools from even good brands have same problems because Cut wheels etc can put big side load worse at high speeds and Bushings just wear out. When pull a brush to check them. Do 1 at a time and keep track of how came out and put back the same way so doesn't have to regrind the tip to fit the armature. This can save bush lifetime a lot. Dead bearing(s) might be replaceable but many shafts setups for different models/brands make this very hard to impossible for most owners.
Oh, the tool I used is a brushless cutoff device made by Sesii. Bearings are fine. I think it sounds different because of the sophisticated motor controller.
Dude, you're the most innovative tool maker DIYer on RUclips!! Looking forward to the welding class. My 18 gauge metal arrived, so more practice tonight. Thanks for the tube bender link. Mac is starting to look a little impatient. Love the tennis balls.
Awesome, it's going to be fun.
Great work, thanks for the inspiration
Nice work. I've had to make replacement fuel lines out of copper tubing, and I have just soldered either brass or copper olives (designed for compression fittings) onto the ends of the tube to create the bead for the hoses to seal against. It seems to work fine and is very cheap and easy.
Cool, my guess is 1/2" olives OD would be way too big
Amazing innovation from you sir and thank you for sharing
Really, really clever beading tool! It wasn’t clear to me at first but there are several balls employed, enough that stack up against the end of the screw.
Yes, several balls. Sorry about that. They were harvested from ball bearing and measured about .150" diameter
With the tube filed up and soldered on the ends it should act like a solid bar theoretically..Really great tutorial..thanks..-John
And it feels like a solid bar too. But the bending force isn't that significant. I think the sand and shot can easily move around while bending.
Thanks for the video. I have heard of people refilling those bottles. I got certified at work to fill propane tanks for the forklifts. So I always was curious about refilling those small light weight bottles without a bleeder valve. I just throw them away. I like those small, refillable bottles. I might get a couple for camping.
Inspirational as always, thanks for sharing!
Nice work
cool idea for this flaring tool:-) Thx for sharing
You're welcome, thanks for watching.
Lovely job, Tom. 🇱🇺
Still, good job. I am HOT on your idea with the ball bearings.
That expander worked really well, particularly as you didn't anneal the brass first.
Very well done.
Powder coat may be too hot for soft solder?
Thanks, powder coating is already done and no problems with the solder. All good👍
Very good . I subscribed
Awesome, thanks!
If that is hvac silver solder..you may not need the flux. Smaller tip might help also.
Looks good from here though. Nice work!
Thank you, I will look for HVAC solder next time. Sounds perfect.
Are there options other than brass tubing? Copper came to mind for utility use. Not sure if it works. Quite the same though. I would think easier but I could be wrong.
You can use anything, but steel and brass have the best crack and fatigue resistance. For example don't use copper for brake or fuel lines unless it's very well supported to the car. (Like every 6 inches)
The aesthetic of this part is so cool Well done. Do you think an external oil cooler could be made with the same type of tubing?
Thank you! Porsche used brass tubing to route the oil to the front of the car and they also made the trombone oil cooler located behind the headlight. So of course you can❤️
Maybe a nitrogen flow, while soldering... Keep the inside clean...
I think your audience is smart enough to understand that making a part like this would require you to carefully wash it out to be dead certain there are no filings, sand or shot pellets lurking in the tube to sneak out and kill the engine, or am I mistaken about the use of this pipe?
Good point. Anything in this pipe goes directly into the cylinders. I will ultrasonically clean and flush before I run the engine again.
Did you consider Annealing the tube to soften it first. Should make the Ridge easier - theoretically.
Not a bad idea. Not sure if this tube comes annealed or not.
Heat to soft red and, you can quench or just let normalize by itself.
I think quenching makes it harder unless its a heated oil
@@GarageTimeAutoResto non-ferrous metals won’t harden if quenched. But it will look nasty till you put it in a pickle solution to clean the oxidation off. A cup of white vinegar and a tablespoon of salt in a crockpot with distilled water. Heater it up and soak the part for 20 minutes or so. The dip it in a bowl with distilled water and baking soda to neutralize.
@baronweber6801 I just googled this and here's what I got. Thin wall tubing doesn't need hours to heat soak either.
Tempering
Heat the brass to 565°C in an oven or kiln
Leave it in the oven for at least two hours
Remove the brass with heat-resistant gloves and tongs
Let it cool on a firebrick or aluminum block for about three minutes
Dip the brass in water for 8-10 seconds
Just an observation on your oxy-acetelyne silver soldering: you were running very rich indicated by the yellow flame. This generates a lot of soot (some actually floated past in the video!) and it'll contaminate the joint area leading to poor wetting and solder fluidity. Work hotter too, and allow the workpiece to melt the solder, not the flame... the solder should flow very freely. A bit of practice should improve your results no end.
Awesome, will try. Thx for the tips
Wondering if annealing the tube would help in the forming of the bends and especially the flaring of the ends.
Yes, I think it would depending on what condition the tube comes in?
Hey Tom, awesome piece. Looks factory. How are those flares made in the factory? similar tool?
Thx, I'm not sure how they made it, but I'd assume they have a set of motorized rollers. There are tooling marks on the inside.
Very nice job but why thw lead shots at the end?
I sprinkled a little lead shot with the sand throughout the entire tube length and capped it off with lead shot. It may not be a necessary step, but here's my thought process.
1). The lead shot can't displace very easily in the packed sand. I envisioned the sand and lead mixture getting pushed around while bending.
2) filling the ends with lead shot makes it easier to pack the sand by pounding with a brass punch.
3). The lead doesn't interfere with the soldering of the caps.
I'm sure filling the entire tube with molten lead would also work, but that seems messy!
By all means experiment with different methods.
I certainly don't do this everyday and I'm sure there are more proven methods that also work.
Nice, where did you get the brass pipe from ??
Industrial metal supply.
@@GarageTimeAutoRestothanks
I am missing something, couldn’t you tig braze it? Maybe it’s too tight of a bend to get between the pipes or having to get silicone bronze rod.
Good question. I thought about trying to TIG this, but I don't have .040 silicon bronze rod. Not sure if it available to be honest. Silver solder is a much lower melting temperature and easier in my opinion. Lead solder is the easiest of them all.
I have more projects like this to do, so maybe I'll try next time if I can find the right materials.
Maybe using TIG as the heat source with shielding gas would have been better?
@@GarageTimeAutoRestoI went pretty far down that rabbit hole. You definitely don't want to try to weld brass. If you can help it take brazine would be good though. It would be slightly more difficult than silver solder, but you probably could get a paint ready joint if you're going for that kind of look. It gives you really nice looking Tig style bumps
Why fill the tube if you have a bender?
To prevent kinks or severe wrinkles.
Hard to tell as "Dremels" often don't play well with many mic to record video... Your old Dremel sound like has bearing(s) or brushes are bad when done actually cutting. Units with bad brushes may seem to work but eat the armature and make noise. Brushes wear out on some models sooner and may seem have carbon but not enough because of brush design. Bearing wear most often for cutting wheels, burrs and grinding making noise first, more so for noise bearing near the collet. You might feel a dying bearing when off as bearing play in different directions. "Knockoffs" rotor tools from even good brands have same problems because Cut wheels etc can put big side load worse at high speeds and Bushings just wear out.
When pull a brush to check them. Do 1 at a time and keep track of how came out and put back the same way so doesn't have to regrind the tip to fit the armature. This can save bush lifetime a lot.
Dead bearing(s) might be replaceable but many shafts setups for different models/brands make this very hard to impossible for most owners.
Oh, the tool I used is a brushless cutoff device made by Sesii. Bearings are fine. I think it sounds different because of the sophisticated motor controller.
Should have annealed the tube first .
And the part would be the same
Video is too long to watch.