We'll continue to post these episodes here on RUclips. If you can't wait for the rest of the build, visit our site to binge-watch: www.powernationtv.com/shows/musclecar
I don't know how "Old School" you guy really are but you should know that you need to set your dwell before you finalize your timing. Feeler gauges only get you close.
@@v8sserieschevy917 Yeah. As I recall, a lot of older muscle cars had a power valve that would blow out if the engine popped back thru the carb. The remedy was installing a check valve on the bottom of the carb - where I just can't remember, it's been 50 years for me.
@@robj2704 we just ran a lot of quadrajet. The newer Holly's may not have that issue. I have very limited experience with them. But nothing sounded as good as a qjet opening up.
@@v8sserieschevy917 Yeah. I remember back in the day (late 60's), could get a mechanical secondary mechanism for the qjet and bypass the vacuum feature. Actually, it didn't work all that good since it would dump the butterflies open without shooting additional fuel in and the result was a bog of the engine followed by a sudden jerk as the engine caught up. This put a real strain on the motor mounts - and would break them (ask me how I know...lol).
Tuning an old carbureted engine with points and rotor to it's sweet spot is a dying art form. You guys keep it going! Love to see people of my generation and younger (I'm 42) who know how to do this properly. Mechanics at your local dealer who have only been trained on modern cars wouldn't know where to start.
I know I'm late to the party - what's 3 years between gear heads, but just have to say my brother had one of those 70 Camaros and it was his pride and joy. You guys did such a great job "IMO" I had to forward the show to him. Now his wife's pissed cause he wants another one. LOL!!!!
That's exactly why I came here lol. Rust prevention is important! I think for the most part, these guys work on cars with minimal rust and assume they are garage queens, so it's not something they think about. Glad they have these on RUclips now!!
@@bilbobaggins4710 I'm very reasonably certain that's a fiber glass reproduction fender which wouldn't mandate an rust prevention. watch how much it flexes at 3:58, I have an F-Body and the factor metal on the fender does not flex like that at all.
I had a 73 mint Camaro.Bronze brown metalflake exterior..Biege cream vinyl top. Cream interior buckets 350 stock v8 SS Cragars all way round. Loved it more than all the women in my life.
Adjustment of the points is fun isn't it...I bought some new points , messed with them from about an HR...then put a different set that was used in it..ran just fine... thanks brothers. For a great vid.....!.. much appreciated.
One of my favorite builds on the show over the years !! A Beautiful 70' Camaro RS/SS Clone car, just please tell the people you sell it to later it is a Clone !! Lol : D
I think you should get some kind of medal for showing everything did not go entitely as planned. I worked for several years in a business specilized in restoring and servicing classic cars (in Sweden). In a big project, there are ALWAYS problems, no matter what money was spent or what people were involved. There are an infinite number of variables already with a completely stock car. Throw in some sub standard replacement parts and infinity is quantified... Hollywood productions make it all look easy. You buy some repop headlights and slap them on. Reality is boltholes differs, some metal needs to be shaved off or connector is wired for H4. I am much more interested in the obstacles in a build than the smooth sailing bits.
@Dave Micolichek not if they drop the distributor with the number 1 up on the compression stroke and didnt look at the pointer. i never do til i adjust the timing but not for the first drop and start
When you drill thru metal you need to prime and paint the fresh metal or else rust will start there. I always paint them. I had this car in a 71. I installed a 327 racing engine in mine It sung at 8200 rpm..
Aftermarket companies like Holley, MSD, Edelbrock, etc. spend a lot of money on car shows like this, displaying their latest electronic ignition system or self-learning EFI, hoping to convince you to buy them. Yet this episode is BY FAR the best advertisement ever made for those new systems. Who in his right mind wants to spend all night scratching his head and singeing his eyebrows, when he could spend a couple hours pecking on a laptop instead?
It's strange but I've only ever seen that happen on Chevrolet engines - probably just because they are more common. A fix for this which should have been done would be to verify TDC on engine mock up with the balancer on to verify the correct timing marks. You can also do this on the car by utilizing a piston stop in the #1 cylinder and verify the timing mark is where it should be.
@@BBCharger5spd I'm a retired Ford Lincoln Mercury technician, and it happened with my 70 chevelle while street racing, and it came apart, and years later seen it on a Mercury Sable, while looking at it with a timing light. I reached down and grabbed it and could spin it....
I usually put the distributor in 180 degrees out, and all it does is back fire. Lol, make sure you are TDC on the compression stroke and not the exhaust stroke. Lol!
Man.....that engine start was very under-whelming. I've been waiting a few weeks for this engine start. Did they ever get it dialed-in before installing hood and aircleaner? I've seen old elastomer harmonic balance dampners get off on the timing mark due to the rubber drying out. They didn't even tell us what the issue was.
Yeah. They'll consider someone who can talk on camera ahead of someone who is skilled in this kind of work. That's why I'd rather watch a video of skilled people over someone being directed by a person behind the camera.
@@CharlieBrown-pb9xn Dude, if you are going to call people idiots, at least use the correct words. * "Their* as in their car. *They're* as in they're idiots.
This stuff you probably already know and did but I always hated it when people assumed I knew and did, I liked to have people to bounce ideals off of even if I knew and already did it, sometimes it sends you in the right direction, the drive ability issue your having could be low voltage to the coil or even a defective coil even if it's "new", you did put 12V to the + side of the coil, right, it needs to come off an ignition feed not an acc feed and the crank feed to the coil comes off of the starter
This L-78 ( converted from a 307 RS ) Is Beautiful. I owned an original numbers matching1970m SS 396 -78 Classic copper. But it was on where near as nice as this one. I sold it in December 2001. My present Camaro is the other 1970 BB SS 396 L-34. Camaro gold with Saddle interior. This one also is numbers matching. Both were Norwood cars with cowl tag saying L-78 and L-34.
I went back and looked and they didn't show them degreeing the cam in, so that is a possibility. I don't know BBC year to year small detail differences, but did they ever change timing tab locations?
I hope they used touch-up primer in the holes after they drilled for the SS Emblems !!! Trust me over time weather and crap "Will" get under the nice paint there from the bare metal !! It's an easy fix to stop that. : )
probably wise to go with a tall "truck" oil filter and put a heat shield on the exhaust there, it will hold about an extra quart of oil that way (in the filter!)
Why is it that no one on youtube or tv can properly install and time a distributor!!!!!..... I've been a mechanic for 22 years and have never had flames come out the inlet
gonna be honest, i love the car and the show, but that badge install was cringe, when he drilled those holes he did not show the bare metal being sealed off and i guarantee if it was left unsealed there's rust starting under that emblem
Sure something can be defective, but no matter what I refuse to keep trying when a motor doesn't fire up near perfectly. I start rechecking everything that can be causing it rather than tear things up. Especially with a new motor I do not want to have it running at 200 rpm. Break in rpm is 1500 or better not 200.
I was squinting my eyes every time that thing backfired. I was waiting to hear that gas was just flowing into the Venturi's because the power valve blew
OK here is how its done boys 1) no vacuum advance 2) rev up engine to 3000 rpm set @ 30o 3) if idle timing is not enough for HP cam change springs or lever to ad more at the bottom 4) reset total 28o for regular gas 30-31 for hi test 32-34 for 100 octane 35-38 racee gas TIP do not turn on gas timing light will flash on cranking set for 15 o she will start up every time, then hook up gas , no back fire no drama.
I hate restoring to factory, could have had a 6 spd, rear wheel discs, and a rear suspension that could actually live behind a big block...long live restomod...
Valve adjustment could be off. My 454 valves were set to the factory specs but had to re adjust a couple of times to get it right. And remember carburetors were never “perfect”.
Yupp.... I made that mistake.... 100 miles from home with a trailer in tow and that's when I figured out my rear diff was empty.... talk about feeling like an idiot.
When the block was at the machine shop the deck was resurfaced. Did that effect timing or were the measurements redone with new pushrods? I know it's not an OHC, but still makes me wonder...
I bet they had the idle way too slow + idle screws off , thats why it would run unless the timing was way to high. Notice they didn't say what was wrong. The Carb should have been Flow tested, I bet that would have done the trick.
Edward Myers I’ve watched em for years...and I know they can time a bbc. I dont know why they even showed me picking up the distributor with the cap on and moving it though
Couple of things. The holes should have been drilled prior to paint. I would have reinstalled the head rests that 70 Camaro’s have. Would have installed the dual factory sport mirrors (easy...did it on my 1979). The top of the dash should be a satin beige not body color. The tail panel should be satin black, not gloss (not sure on this one).
Guys are all about selling parts brand names half the time they really don't know what you're doing read the filter box it tells you to turn the filter almost three-quarters of the turn and they don't even put the biggest filter on the engine that you can use by the way big blocks love to have the two quart filter on them big blocks circulate a lot of oil and I always used to line the engine up to top dead center and then put the harmonic balancer on to find out how far off the mark would be when I build engines with stock or aftermarket harmonic balancers once you get the ignition timing set you should only be off by 1 to2 degrees just learn how you set the timing on VW and you can set the timing on anything
We'll continue to post these episodes here on RUclips. If you can't wait for the rest of the build, visit our site to binge-watch: www.powernationtv.com/shows/musclecar
I don't know how "Old School" you guy really are but you should know that you need to set your dwell before you finalize your timing. Feeler gauges only get you close.
How did it not damage your holly spitting back like that? I've had it damage mine
@@v8sserieschevy917 Yeah. As I recall, a lot of older muscle cars had a power valve that would blow out if the engine popped back thru the carb. The remedy was installing a check valve on the bottom of the carb - where I just can't remember, it's been 50 years for me.
@@robj2704 we just ran a lot of quadrajet. The newer Holly's may not have that issue. I have very limited experience with them. But nothing sounded as good as a qjet opening up.
@@v8sserieschevy917 Yeah. I remember back in the day (late 60's), could get a mechanical secondary mechanism for the qjet and bypass the vacuum feature. Actually, it didn't work all that good since it would dump the butterflies open without shooting additional fuel in and the result was a bog of the engine followed by a sudden jerk as the engine caught up. This put a real strain on the motor mounts - and would break them (ask me how I know...lol).
Tuning an old carbureted engine with points and rotor to it's sweet spot is a dying art form. You guys keep it going! Love to see people of my generation and younger (I'm 42) who know how to do this properly. Mechanics at your local dealer who have only been trained on modern cars wouldn't know where to start.
I'm just sitting back and enjoying the show, no advice to give, just enjoying somebody else doing what I did to mine back in 1986.
Had a 70 Z in that color...in the sun it popped...only green I ever liked.
What a sharp looking car.
One of my favorite Camaros and the color and interior is awesome.
I know I'm late to the party - what's 3 years between gear heads, but just have to say my brother had one of those 70 Camaros and it was his pride and joy. You guys did such a great job "IMO" I had to forward the show to him. Now his wife's pissed cause he wants another one. LOL!!!!
Always dab a bit of paint on drilled/bare areas for rust prevention.
Good point. However the fender he drilled into wasn't metal.
@@bigtires100 ohhhh what was it genius??
Funny wasnt it...Like where the hell are ya gonna get an original old SS fender to make the template??? Autozone???
That's exactly why I came here lol. Rust prevention is important! I think for the most part, these guys work on cars with minimal rust and assume they are garage queens, so it's not something they think about. Glad they have these on RUclips now!!
@@bilbobaggins4710 I'm very reasonably certain that's a fiber glass reproduction fender which wouldn't mandate an rust prevention. watch how much it flexes at 3:58, I have an F-Body and the factor metal on the fender does not flex like that at all.
The 1970 Camaro is a real beauty. Makes you wish you could go back into time and bring a new one forward into our time.
I had a 73 mint Camaro.Bronze brown metalflake exterior..Biege cream vinyl top. Cream interior buckets 350 stock v8 SS Cragars all way round. Loved it more than all the women in my life.
Tommy and Rick were the best combo on any of powernations shows
Wow.. You guys do good work but I can't believe you didn't use touch up paint after drilling holes for emblems. Good spot for rust to start
Yep I said the same thing. Or a Q-tip with silicone on it.
No offense guys. I wish I could have been there so I could show these guys how it’s done. This old man knows a few tricks
I think we all know that cobra jet don’t want none of a copo
70 Camaro was always the best looking. I want it!
Adjustment of the points is fun isn't it...I bought some new points , messed with them from about an HR...then put a different set that was used in it..ran just fine... thanks brothers. For a great vid.....!.. much appreciated.
You crank engine over little bit till the high spot on cam contacts.Set at .030 done .Maybe not 😆
Love how the music is as close to actual songs as it can, enough to sound familiar but not pay for using it. Tight wads. Nice chops dude
Hey guys a vacuum gage is a useful tool to diagnose these kind of problems , I use to used it a lot heck I still use it for modern cars
That 2nd Gen is the best looking Camaro...that thing is tight. The factory chrome package makes it pop
I’m a MOPAR guy to the bone but, this split bumper is friggin’ saweeet !
I think the 70 camaro is the best year they made
One of my favorite builds on the show over the years !!
A Beautiful 70' Camaro RS/SS Clone car, just please tell the people you sell it to later it is a Clone !! Lol : D
Y’all are awesome I know it’s lots of work
for god sakes someone teach that guy how to install u joints.... 5:01
That was painful to watch
@@jonathanstodden6029 I'm joe blow nobody but even I have a shop press to use. OR at least use a "C" clamp
@@BBCharger5spd My dad used to do them in the bench vise.
STREET RACER nice
And shows they really build cars lol. Give 1/2 hour to give it a lock if paint!!!!
I think you should get some kind of medal for showing everything did not go entitely as planned. I worked for several years in a business specilized in restoring and servicing classic cars (in Sweden). In a big project, there are ALWAYS problems, no matter what money was spent or what people were involved. There are an infinite number of variables already with a completely stock car. Throw in some sub standard replacement parts and infinity is quantified...
Hollywood productions make it all look easy. You buy some repop headlights and slap them on. Reality is boltholes differs, some metal needs to be shaved off or connector is wired for H4.
I am much more interested in the obstacles in a build than the smooth sailing bits.
The distributor is one tooth off and/or crossed plug wires
BEEN THERE!
@@justinbelshe me too
no the timing pointer was off
@@bigsean2473 glad you found it
@Dave Micolichek not if they drop the distributor with the number 1 up on the compression stroke and didnt look at the pointer. i never do til i adjust the timing but not for the first drop and start
It's a truly great ride. It's awesome. Let me know when u r dropping it off at my house.
When you drill thru metal you need to prime and paint the fresh metal or else rust will start there. I always paint them. I had this car in a 71. I installed a 327 racing engine in mine It sung at 8200 rpm..
I'm so glad that in 2019 I bought a 1973 Z28/RS
big block is angy
Aftermarket companies like Holley, MSD, Edelbrock, etc. spend a lot of money on car shows like this, displaying their latest electronic ignition system or self-learning EFI, hoping to convince you to buy them. Yet this episode is BY FAR the best advertisement ever made for those new systems. Who in his right mind wants to spend all night scratching his head and singeing his eyebrows, when he could spend a couple hours pecking on a laptop instead?
sideburns everywhere..and awesome :)
Durka durka duuuurrr. Dey took our joooobs.
exelente maquina ya esta terminado. gran trabajo gracias por compartir sus trabajos.
Awesome!!
You guys are great and I really enjoy your show!! Limelight looks amazing!!!
Thumbs up for video and wishing you all a great weekend.
I've seen the harmonic balancer slip because of the rubber insulator was dry rotted...
It's strange but I've only ever seen that happen on Chevrolet engines - probably just because they are more common. A fix for this which should have been done would be to verify TDC on engine mock up with the balancer on to verify the correct timing marks. You can also do this on the car by utilizing a piston stop in the #1 cylinder and verify the timing mark is where it should be.
@@BBCharger5spd
I'm a retired Ford Lincoln Mercury technician, and it happened with my 70 chevelle while street racing, and it came apart, and years later seen it on a Mercury Sable, while looking at it with a timing light. I reached down and grabbed it and could spin it....
BBCharger5spd or take the radiator cap off and find a ford that fits it. (Joking)
yep, seen them come clean off and go bouncing across the drag strip and up the barrier or fence launching into the air..
Awesome car, awesome build!
I love comedies! 🤪👍
That cams wiped at this point
1994 spoonglasses guy😍 I had similar.
Did they break in that cam if not it’s gonna go flat fast unless it’s a roller
I usually put the distributor in 180 degrees out, and all it does is back fire. Lol, make sure you are TDC on the compression stroke and not the exhaust stroke. Lol!
I love that car. She is a true beauty!
Man.....that engine start was very under-whelming. I've been waiting a few weeks for this engine start. Did they ever get it dialed-in before installing hood and aircleaner? I've seen old elastomer harmonic balance dampners get off on the timing mark due to the rubber drying out. They didn't even tell us what the issue was.
Same here, I want to know exactly what the problem was!
Their idiots. I can get timing within a few degrees before first start.
Yeah. They'll consider someone who can talk on camera ahead of someone who is skilled in this kind of work. That's why I'd rather watch a video of skilled people over someone being directed by a person behind the camera.
@@CharlieBrown-pb9xn Dude, if you are going to call people idiots, at least use the correct words. * "Their* as in their car. *They're* as in they're idiots.
@@OW38B or we could stop using contractions......would cut way down on the confusion....
OE 12 sec car was screaming back then. Still quick for oem cars today.
This stuff you probably already know and did but I always hated it when people assumed I knew and did, I liked to have people to bounce ideals off of even if I knew and already did it, sometimes it sends you in the right direction, the drive ability issue your having could be low voltage to the coil or even a defective coil even if it's "new", you did put 12V to the + side of the coil, right, it needs to come off an ignition feed not an acc feed and the crank feed to the coil comes off of the starter
This L-78 ( converted from a 307 RS ) Is Beautiful. I owned an original numbers matching1970m SS 396 -78 Classic copper. But it was on where near as nice as this one. I sold it in December 2001. My present Camaro is the other 1970 BB SS 396 L-34. Camaro gold with Saddle interior. This one also is numbers matching. Both were Norwood cars with cowl tag saying L-78 and L-34.
Keep’em coming.
I love this show
and that is how not to install a u joint ! = use the ice to squeeze in the end caps = NOT WITH A HAMMER !
A Muncie Rockcrusher 4 speed! A REAL mans transmission!
Didn't most of these cars come with some variation of the Hyrdromatic?
If that timing chain is off by one tooth it will give you more trouble than you ask for! It will run, but not right, just like what's going on here!
I agree. If you can't find the problem at the distributer that's were I'd look next.
I went back and looked and they didn't show them degreeing the cam in, so that is a possibility. I don't know BBC year to year small detail differences, but did they ever change timing tab locations?
@@superkillr They didn't catch the timing tab being way off so who knows whether they got the cam set right either.
Project pickle is almost done, yay!
You should have stuck electronic distributor in that motor
nothing wrong with points.
i agree
Did you find either 5-7 cyl crossed. Maybe if went with points dwell set too low. Or valve set to tight
I hope they used touch-up primer in the holes after they drilled for the SS Emblems !!!
Trust me over time weather and crap "Will" get under the nice paint there from the bare metal !!
It's an easy fix to stop that. : )
That car is beautiful!!!! What’s your plans for it?
Why didn't you install an HEI distributor ??? There is such a thing as going over board on original.
always break in an engine with a proven-correct carb, eliminates many factors when things don't go as they should...
wow for a moment it was running like a ford. I home tommy gets his eyebrows back
outstanding!!!
That reflection is scary. Lol
Youre ugly as fuck as well
Donalddump so is your comment. It was a joke you no good evil person. Besides you hurt my feelings. Lol
Tommy = mvp
He's the man 👍😊
probably wise to go with a tall "truck" oil filter and put a heat shield on the exhaust there, it will hold about an extra quart of oil that way (in the filter!)
Why is it that no one on youtube or tv can properly install and time a distributor!!!!!..... I've been a mechanic for 22 years and have never had flames come out the inlet
I like the color Might paint my 74 Z the same color !
gonna be honest, i love the car and the show, but that badge install was cringe, when he drilled those holes he did not show the bare metal being sealed off and i guarantee if it was left unsealed there's rust starting under that emblem
Sure something can be defective, but no matter what I refuse to keep trying when a motor doesn't fire up near perfectly. I start rechecking everything that can be causing it rather than tear things up. Especially with a new motor I do not want to have it running at 200 rpm. Break in rpm is 1500 or better not 200.
Hell that's a Holley and it backfired !! The power valves are burt out !!
I was squinting my eyes every time that thing backfired. I was waiting to hear that gas was just flowing into the Venturi's because the power valve blew
Why did you choose this oil? 75w-90 Can I empty the oil in my car and add this completely, or do I have to add something else with it?
VR1 is the oil I use to break in motors
Love the vids
Leaving the dash green simply fucked up everything
OK here is how its done boys 1) no vacuum advance 2) rev up engine to 3000 rpm set @ 30o 3) if idle timing is not enough for HP cam change springs or lever to ad more at the bottom 4) reset total 28o for regular gas 30-31 for hi test 32-34 for 100 octane 35-38 racee gas TIP do not turn on gas timing light will flash on cranking set for 15 o she will start up every time, then hook up gas , no back fire no drama.
one of the few times I'd find a green car look good.
Dam Beautiful.
I hate restoring to factory, could have had a 6 spd, rear wheel discs, and a rear suspension that could actually live behind a big block...long live restomod...
cam should be flat with all that cranking and no fire......
hope it was a roller and not flat tappet, f so, they;ll find out sooner than later, when it wipes them away...
I love the color y’all chose on this model
it helps set the rings LOL
billiondollardan helps the cam break in cranking so much without oil lol
Valve adjustment could be off. My 454 valves were set to the factory specs but had to re adjust a couple of times to get it right. And remember carburetors were never “perfect”.
Yupp.... I made that mistake.... 100 miles from home with a trailer in tow and that's when I figured out my rear diff was empty.... talk about feeling like an idiot.
Oh god 😱
Meh. It happens to the best of us, Ryan! I've certainly done a coupla' blockheaded maneuvers, myself....
have you drilled a freshly-made wing and not protected the holes with anything? From this place, the wing will rot completely.
The only sleeve I’ve ever installed, was chilled with dry ice before install. I guess that was not necessary....🙀
When the block was at the machine shop the deck was resurfaced. Did that effect timing or were the measurements redone with new pushrods? I know it's not an OHC, but still makes me wonder...
I bet they had the idle way too slow + idle screws off , thats why it would run unless the timing was way to high. Notice they didn't say what was wrong. The Carb should have been Flow tested, I bet that would have done the trick.
Maybe finding the true TDC?
I'm curious.. Was the SS rear alcove painted shiny, or eggshell black?
Am late but small block cars were body color and big block models was semi flat black
So what was the problem?
Beautiful job, the wheels look nice but I thought the 70 SS 396 came with the rally rims.
Why not holes before painting?, very nice car though
I’d never let these guys touch my engine other than to spray paint it.
I mean these guys ain't like the horse power guys down the road. All these guys know it body and paint 😂
Wouldn't let them touch my bicycle!
Edward Myers I’ve watched em for years...and I know they can time a bbc. I dont know why they even showed me picking up the distributor with the cap on and moving it though
*em
Btw, to hear actual professionals say after an all nighter..
"It makes NO damned sense"
seem sort of satisfying.
Don't forget to prime those badge holes.....just sayn
Couple of things. The holes should have been drilled prior to paint. I would have reinstalled the head rests that 70 Camaro’s have. Would have installed the dual factory sport mirrors (easy...did it on my 1979). The top of the dash should be a satin beige not body color. The tail panel should be satin black, not gloss (not sure on this one).
How much time took you guys finish this project?
I want that SS 396 Camaro 70 me and that car the same age 49 yrs old about to be 50
Id like to see these guys try and work on a modern car, if they are struggling this much with a carb'd small block
She's looking fine as can be
Guys are all about selling parts brand names half the time they really don't know what you're doing read the filter box it tells you to turn the filter almost three-quarters of the turn and they don't even put the biggest filter on the engine that you can use by the way big blocks love to have the two quart filter on them big blocks circulate a lot of oil and I always used to line the engine up to top dead center and then put the harmonic balancer on to find out how far off the mark would be when I build engines with stock or aftermarket harmonic balancers once you get the ignition timing set you should only be off by 1 to2 degrees just learn how you set the timing on VW and you can set the timing on anything
Problem might be in the lightning can, the fire makers or the doings chamber.