Thanks for posting this! You inspired me to do the same ; long ago around 2021 I saw this video. I started with one unit , later upgraded to 2 units for my 12 x 16 ft shed. I could not be happier.. And, it all started by viewing your video. Thanks !
Installed one in my 1 1/2 car garage about 4 months ago!! I paid $101.00 to my door in Indiana. No smell, no mess its just perfect!! I have it powered by a 120v 25amp transformer bought from ebay for $17.00 to the door. If you are thinking about one, you will not be disappointed!
Wow that’s some serious snow! I’m in the U.K. and want one for my woodwork shop, it’s about as insulated as yours 😂😂 but U.K. weather isn’t as bad 😂 I’d love to see snow like that! Awesome shop 👍🏻 great video 👊🏻
On the controller you should be able to press the settings button three times till it shows 4 lines with a padlock icon. That’s asking for a pin to access the HZ and fan speed setting. The pin to enter is 1688, select it by using the arrow keys and pressing the ok button to confirm each number. That should enable the advanced settings.
I am in Alberta here. My woodworking shop has a 220v electric heater. The past three years I have seen spikes of like $200+/month in the cold canadian winter because of needing to heat my shop! I have wood heat in my home(can't beat that cuz wood is the best heat PERIOD...and i always have wood) but man... that electric bill for the heater in my shop is killing me! Anyway... I just bought an 8k diesel heater and will be installing it in my shop before the snow flies. IT MAKES TOTAL SENSE!~
I installed one in a 20 by 10 woodwork shop last week. I went with the Maxpeedingrods 5kw unit with separated tank and heater element. The wood shop is located in Western Massachusetts not too far from Albany, NY, it can get down to minus 30's on coldest days during artic blast. The shed is uninsulated, will insulate it for next winter to cut down on required btu's to keep space heated during cold weather. So far, I am very happy with purchase. I paid $138 for the 5kw kit which came with upgraded components compared to many other brands, heavier duty exhaust pipe and Bluetooth controller which appears to be similar to one you are running it has a gear pump mode which I run it in or an auto temp mode. I actually like the key fob more then the phone app. The phone app could use some work. I did pick up similar transformer rated for 30 amps and 12 volts for $21. I bought the double wall through rv or boat thimble and one extra exhaust hose. Total cost was around $185. The unit runs well and puts out estimated 14,500btu to 15,000 btu max based on combustion efficiency. This is 3.5x higher than any electric heater and like yourself it cost about $8 of fuel to run few hours a day for approximately two weeks. This is way better than electric and propane, plus it is a dry heat no moisture like salamander heaters give off. The unit reminds me of old school monitor heater we have in Log Cabin up near Lake Placid which can heat a whole log cabin and runs off of kerosene. They do not make monitor heaters anymore they were very popular fuel-efficient ways to heat homes in cold weather climates. The cabin could be heated literally for two years on a 275-gallon tank of kerosene. I think the old monitor heaters put out estimated 30,000 to 40,000 btu using same exact principals as these units.
Well done. I am glad to see your installation has the outside air intake and exhaust on a vertical surface. First one I’ve seen in looking at hundreds of videos. The difficult to read manuals show it but most choose to put the outside air and exhaust down. It is a good suggestion to wire in a battery backup for power outage.
Thanks for the vid......What I did installed a 30 amp sub panel from a RV AC/DC ....12v to run the heater and led lights..also charge my deep cycle battery from the system for a backup in case of a power failure....than this way you can still run the lights and heater and or fan and whatever else that’s 12v.....now for The 120v side I installed wall plug receptacles and run my power tools from that as well the options are endless.....🇨🇦
I have gotten a few comments about the heater being installed with the exhaust on the side. This works great AS LONG AS YOU HAVE THE GLOW PLUG ON TOP. That is critical. The heater is still working great.
Just a little update: Heater is running well still. No issues. I am going to change my setup slightly to avoid damaging the unit if the power goes out while it is on - I will add a small 12V vehicle battery that is continually connected to a charger. That way if we lose power the heater will not be affected and as someone said "cook itself to death" :)
Love your set up, can you tell me more about your power supply, is it a 15amp or 20amp , trying to figure which one to get, not finding to much info from these heaters and what the amp draw is. Or if you could tell me which one you are using from Amazon would be great. Wanting to heat my workshop
@@DavidGuns thanks! I used this one, not available on prime anymore it looks like but many similar are: www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01E6S0JS4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1&fpw=alm
Question... I notice you have the unit installed with the intake and exhaust on the side as opposed to it operating with the intake and exhaust on the bottom. All of the instructions I’ve read show installing with them on the bottom. Have you had any issue with how you installed?
Hi, could you please post the link where you purchased your heater in Canada? Also, if you can include info on battery, battery charger and other devices you used to run the heater that would be great. Thank you.
I have one in my garage- 21' x 23' and it heats it fine. I have been using it for two years now with no issue. I did not make a video of it but you can see it running when I make some videos this winter. (also in Canada-Ontario)
Thanks for the video. Have you considered taking the heater off grid? In the event you lose power, the heater could be damaged... I just installed an All-In-One diesel heater in my 8x8 work shed with a 7 foot ceiling. Although we don't lose power that often in NW New Jersey, in does happen. I have a 12 volt AGM 35ah battery & a single small solar panel maintaining the battery. So far so good. Holiday Blessings to you Sir & the family.
Thank you. One thing that I was looking to have answered -- my shop setup is that best fit for a Chinese heater installed "on its side" -- i.e. with the inlet and exhaust pointed out horizontally versus the vertically pointed down as most are. But no videos I've found so far show this arrangement or mention whether it's a practical arrangement or not. Now I see yours and I'm glad to know that at least some heaters will work mounted in this way. Did you have to select one with this in mind or is it "universal"? It's very good to know. Thanks also for your comments about efficiency and the usefulness of an battery-assisted 12V power supply. This is a very useful video and I appreciate the info and your work to produce it.
@@kdollars101 Thanks. That's kind of a problem, I need to have two back to back, that would make the glow plug on one point up and the other point down. Maybe I can do some juggling to get them to fit side-by side. But it's good to know, thanks and best wishes,
Hey, it's not pretty, but aluminum tape is great for covering cracks, stopping air leaks. I just installed a 5kw heater in my garage. So far, I think it'll work out well. I used a battery and charger to ensure there's no way for the power to the heater to be interrupted and cause damage, though.
Hi, I’m glad To see your text. I expect delivery of my heater soon, and was looking for information on having the battery on the charger whilst connected to the heater, and I see that you have done it this way. Can you give me your suggestions on using either trickle or full charge when running. I think that I will buy a separate battery for the heater rather than use my jeep battery battery. I would be grateful for any advice on this, thank you.
Hi, great economical setup. Just a bit of info for you. Diesel combustion produces a very small amount of Carbon "monoxide" but does produce Carbon dioxide. If you were to fill your shed with the fumes from the heater the oxygen atmosphere within the shed would be pushed out and you would die from asphyxiation and not Carbon "monoxide" poisoning. I found this out when I had a blown head gasket in my diesel 4x4 and the mechanic was testing the coolant and it kept coming up negative for a blown gasket. The reason. The test tests for carbon "monoxide" suspended in the coolant. Eventually he spat the dummy and pulled the head off anyway and found the blown gasket. When he looked into as to why the test came up negative we found out the information. Petrol & LPG on the other hand are the killers. Not to mention how much moisture LPG puts into the atmosphere. Anyway thanks for the video. Cheers
I will add... CO would kill the cat sleeping on the floor before it would ever harm one in a setup such as this. A well-vented webasto to the outdoors is rarely a problem. I'd be more concerned after seeing this if there was not sufficient WRAPPING OF THE EXHAUST PIPE passing through a wooden wall with asbestos or even something like this: www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07C17DZ3F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (FIRE HAZARD)
I am thinking of mounting everything outside and a safe distance from the building then just running insulated heat discharge (and possibly intake) into the building. Probably best to mount the unit higher than the point where the output hose enters the building.
Thanks for that. I bought one for last winter but didn't complete the installation because last winter was much warmer (around 0 instead of -15C). However, I'll get back to it again now. Just one observation - the instructions state that there must not be an interruption to the electrical supply whilst the unit is operating so how do you cope with only that power supply? I intend to use an ATV batttery with trickle charger for the 12v source.
@@Robbbbooo My installation is now working fine but the testing weather is yet to come. I used 12v ATV battery and a cheap charger from Lidl. Be aware that there is some current drain even when the heater is off so you might want to include a switch in the 12v supply to the control panel.
Further to my previous comment, I found that the ATV battery and trickle charger combination was not up to maintaining the heater operation at full output for a prolonged period. I have replaced the battery with a small car battery which has a higher capacity. The trickle charger is not enough to maintain the charge at maximum demand but it does replenish the battery sufficiently once the heater stabilises.
@@robt2151 good to know! I think the heater uses about 11 amps at 12V for startup and shut down and about 4 amps constantly. So I think you'd probably want a 5 amp or higher charger?
@@Robbbbooo Yes, the Lidl charger is not really up to this job. It has the annoying defect of not being able to set to charge remotely, eg, via a time switch, as it goes into a monitoring mode when connected and must be manually switched to charging mode.
Hi there, I'm just wondering if you have ever had a power cut while it's been on and if the heater cools down own, I'm assuming it should have some sort of safety system built into it, I'm torn between electric or a battery and solar charge or maybe even a trickle charge, thanks
I want to install a diesel heater on a shelf inside the van Can I leave the fresh air inlet to the burning chamber open to the inside of the van and exhaust the exhaust pipe to the outside through the wall to the outside Thanks
It could be done...BUT...you would have to crack a window to allow fresh air to come inside to replace the exhaust air, and that would make the system less efficient
Great video. Just a couple of questions. What did you use in the wall to isolate the hot exhaust from the surrounding wall. Also the power electrical power unit do you have a link for that. Thanks again really interesting video.
Hi John, I used some leftover roof flashing to protect the wood siding. The power supply I used is here: www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01E6S0JS4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Any 20 amp 120VAC to 12VDC power supply will work.
First just subscribed enjoyed the video and have a question your heater is mounted 90 degrees from the normal bottom exhaust set up any problems with this. I have two of these heaters one for a Florida room and one for the office at my business . This orientation would make a much cleaner installation any information greatly appreciated
looks like you used some kind metal piece that you screwed to you shed and then ran the exhaust tube thru.I need something like that so i dont burn the piece of wood im going to run the tube thru. What is it called and can i get one on amazon?
Hi, nice setup and I haven't seen any bad reviews of the diesel heaters. Can you tell me more about the power supply, e.g. what is the 12v rated output? thanks.
These units are chinese spin-offs of the "webasto" that truckers have been using for years up here in the great white north. Buyer-beware. Pumps, seals, hoses etc. may not be the same quality for longevity as brand name "webasto" BUT.... you get what you pay for and if you are willing to maintain.... all is good?
@@theoznucks281 20A seems like a lot. Have you ever put an amp meter inline to check the actual draw? I was thinking of using a LED striplight power supply. I have a 10amp one spare that I was considering using.
@@jerryschull2122 The wiring schematic shows a 20A fuse. I understand that there is a surge demand on start up which then settles down once the unit is running.
Thanks! I have thought about insulating the space but don't think I will. I use the space between the studs for shelving and storage. I did seal up some of the cracks in the siding with spray foam which has helped a bit. With the diesel heater and the size of the space I can live with it being uninsulated for now.
@@theoznucks281 What about just 1" of closed cell "blue" foam insulation cut to fit between the wall studs and glued to the exterior wall? It would add an approx "R-5" insulating value, as well as tighten up a lot of the air leakage, and wouldn't take up much of the "storage" as you call it
I would suggest incoming that the air intake be inside the shop. You have enough air infiltration. This will give you more heat since you are warming up warmer air.
taking the colder air is actually more efficient since it's denser and holds more oxygen, thereby getting more BTU's out of the gas that's burnt. Also, the air is recirculating inside already, only the combustion intake is outside.
Great video. I am about to do similar though we don’t get the same extreme cold weather. In your update you mentioned adding a 12v battery which has confused me a little. Are you going to replace the 120ac supply with a 12v battery/charger or is it going to be supplied by both with the 12v battery acting as a back up? If the latter how did you wire this? Many thanks - Martin
Hey, have not done this yet but plan to. This is the plan: The diesel heater is connected directly to a 12V battery. That battery is continuously being trickle charged by a battery charger. The battery ensures that if power goes out you have X number of hours of battery backup so the heater doesn't cook itself (by not going through its cool down procedure).
@@theoznucks281 many thanks for the quick reply and explanation. I now understand😁. I will stick with a mains supply as it won’t be used if I’m not present thus negating the cool down issue/threat.
@@blacklablover2982 The issue is that regardless if you are there or not, the cooldown cycle will not happen with power interrupted. From what I have read, without the fan on (pushing that heat out of the unit) the unit will get too hot and be damaged. The heater is designed to have airflow constantly moving through the unit while the combustion chamber is hot. This keeps the internals within the design temperature.
Just got a new one from ebay and im not getting power to the controller. Checked fuse and I'm getting 12v to the ecu but no voltage to the controller? What else can i Check
VIDEO UPDATE: If you are going to do this, I would highly recommend that instead of using a 12V to 120V converter (like I did) you connect the heater directly to a 12V battery, and then have that battery constantly being trickle charged by a battery charger. These heaters require a cool down cycle - if the power goes out while heater is on, it wont go through this cool down cycle, and may be damaged. The 12V battery provides you with a backup power source in this scenario and gives you time to properly shut it down (while mains power is off).
I guess im asking the wrong place but does someone know of a tool to get back into an Instagram account?? I somehow forgot the password. I would appreciate any assistance you can give me
@Jose Peter I really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff now. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
I think I'd insulate and install a mini woodstove as my first choice, but this was interesting nonetheless. Going to retire to Mexico or the Mediterranean so no idea why I'm watching this.
Buy a tube of sealant and seal the holes in your walls. Your losing heat while running the heater. Its $5 and you'll save on fuel while keeping shop heater for longer
I noticed you used different fuel line then normally comes with the heater, do you find it affects performance at all? I read that the hard plastic type fuel lines they come with are meant for it as they don’t expand with the pump pulses and provide the heater with proper fuel. But my problem is my fuel line leaks at the rubber to plastic hose connection and I want to replace it with a nicer quality fuel line
Hey! What is shown in the video is what came with my heater. I would just buy the equivalent ID fuel line at the parts store if you are having issues with what was provided.
I'm just prepping to do an install in Manitoba and have been researching the same question. My searches so far have led me to a start up amperage of 11 to 12 with a 120 volt connection. Once running it should drop closer to 4 or less. I'm planning on a 20 amp supply and suggest no smaller than a 15 amp supply.
combustion air is better cold so it's outside with the exhaust. the heat exchange cold intake is inside the building, so you are recirc-ing the "hot" air.
How is the heater working now that its been a year? I noticed you mounted yours sideways, with the intake and exhaust through the wall, is that an option? We just bought an 8kw unit and will be installing it on our remote cabin this weekend and was curious.
Hey! Working great! as mentioned in my update comment below I would run the heater off a 12volt battery which is connected to a battery charger to avoid cooking the unit if you have a power outage. You can mount the heater sideways as long as the glow plug is on the top side.
@@theoznucks281 The one I have, looks identical to yours, hold the "OK" button down while also holding the "UP" button in order to go into HZ mode from temp mode. Do it again and it will revert to it's previous mode.
Hmm guess I must have put mine on the bottom then. I had it leak during the first start up because I left it priming too long. Just a spoon full worth. Hasn't leaked since.
@@court2379 mine was positioned the right way and was leaking. The hose that is supplied is to big for the connector on the heater itself but too small for the pump and filter lol I had to cut larger hose to slide over The plastic hose to connect the pump and filter. For the heater connection I just used some sealant around the base and let dry and it stopped leaking with a hose clamp of course.
@@derekgonet I installed it according to the documentation, which allows several orientations, so what is the right way? I put the the ports up, to vent thru the roof.
If you have your fresh air intake on the INSIDE of the building. It will work much better. Doing it the way you are. It has to heat the cold outside air Fresh air intake on the INSIDE of the building my heater works wayyyyyyyy wayyyy wayyyyy better
Thanks for posting this! You inspired me to do the same ; long ago around 2021 I saw this video. I started with one unit , later upgraded to 2 units for my 12 x 16 ft shed. I could not be happier.. And, it all started by viewing your video. Thanks !
Lol i came to see your video because of your side set up and that’s exactly what you wrote in your comments ! Thanks for sharing this 👍👍
Installed one in my 1 1/2 car garage about 4 months ago!! I paid $101.00 to my door in Indiana. No smell, no mess its just perfect!! I have it powered by a 120v 25amp transformer bought from ebay for $17.00 to the door. If you are thinking about one, you will not be disappointed!
Hello what is the 12 volt power supply rated at in DC amps
I will o out and look tomorrow and get back to you
actually I think the 25amp is the DC output, I will check tomorrow to make sure.
Wow that’s some serious snow! I’m in the U.K. and want one for my woodwork shop, it’s about as insulated as yours 😂😂 but U.K. weather isn’t as bad 😂 I’d love to see snow like that! Awesome shop 👍🏻 great video 👊🏻
On the controller you should be able to press the settings button three times till it shows 4 lines with a padlock icon. That’s asking for a pin to access the HZ and fan speed setting. The pin to enter is 1688, select it by using the arrow keys and pressing the ok button to confirm each number. That should enable the advanced settings.
I am in Alberta here. My woodworking shop has a 220v electric heater. The past three years I have seen spikes of like $200+/month in the cold canadian winter because of needing to heat my shop! I have wood heat in my home(can't beat that cuz wood is the best heat PERIOD...and i always have wood) but man... that electric bill for the heater in my shop is killing me! Anyway... I just bought an 8k diesel heater and will be installing it in my shop before the snow flies. IT MAKES TOTAL SENSE!~
Good choice. The diesel heaters are very economical.
Hello all, I am also from Alberta; interesting video. Thefeet, have you installed your heater yet?
I bought a different model but this is helpful, thanks for taking the time to share your experience.
I installed one in a 20 by 10 woodwork shop last week. I went with the Maxpeedingrods 5kw unit with separated tank and heater element. The wood shop is located in Western Massachusetts not too far from Albany, NY, it can get down to minus 30's on coldest days during artic blast. The shed is uninsulated, will insulate it for next winter to cut down on required btu's to keep space heated during cold weather. So far, I am very happy with purchase. I paid $138 for the 5kw kit which came with upgraded components compared to many other brands, heavier duty exhaust pipe and Bluetooth controller which appears to be similar to one you are running it has a gear pump mode which I run it in or an auto temp mode.
I actually like the key fob more then the phone app. The phone app could use some work. I did pick up similar transformer rated for 30 amps and 12 volts for $21. I bought the double wall through rv or boat thimble and one extra exhaust hose. Total cost was around $185. The unit runs well and puts out estimated 14,500btu to 15,000 btu max based on combustion efficiency. This is 3.5x higher than any electric heater and like yourself it cost about $8 of fuel to run few hours a day for approximately two weeks. This is way better than electric and propane, plus it is a dry heat no moisture like salamander heaters give off.
The unit reminds me of old school monitor heater we have in Log Cabin up near Lake Placid which can heat a whole log cabin and runs off of kerosene. They do not make monitor heaters anymore they were very popular fuel-efficient ways to heat homes in cold weather climates. The cabin could be heated literally for two years on a 275-gallon tank of kerosene. I think the old monitor heaters put out estimated 30,000 to 40,000 btu using same exact principals as these units.
Well done. I am glad to see your installation has the outside air intake and exhaust on a vertical surface. First one I’ve seen in looking at hundreds of videos. The difficult to read manuals show it but most choose to put the outside air and exhaust down. It is a good suggestion to wire in a battery backup for power outage.
Thanks for the vid......What I did installed a 30 amp sub panel from a RV AC/DC ....12v to run the heater and led lights..also charge my deep cycle battery from the system for a backup in case of a power failure....than this way you can still run the lights and heater and or fan and whatever else that’s 12v.....now for The 120v side I installed wall plug receptacles and run my power tools from that as well the options are endless.....🇨🇦
I have gotten a few comments about the heater being installed with the exhaust on the side. This works great AS LONG AS YOU HAVE THE GLOW PLUG ON TOP. That is critical. The heater is still working great.
Interesting, and thanks. What would happen if the glow plug was on the bottom?
Just a little update: Heater is running well still. No issues. I am going to change my setup slightly to avoid damaging the unit if the power goes out while it is on - I will add a small 12V vehicle battery that is continually connected to a charger. That way if we lose power the heater will not be affected and as someone said "cook itself to death" :)
Love your set up, can you tell me more about your power supply, is it a 15amp or 20amp , trying to figure which one to get, not finding to much info from these heaters and what the amp draw is. Or if you could tell me which one you are using from Amazon would be great. Wanting to heat my workshop
@@DavidGuns thanks! I used this one, not available on prime anymore it looks like but many similar are: www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01E6S0JS4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1&fpw=alm
Great video! What type of charger did you use for your 12v battery?
Question... I notice you have the unit installed with the intake and exhaust on the side as opposed to it operating with the intake and exhaust on the bottom. All of the instructions I’ve read show installing with them on the bottom. Have you had any issue with how you installed?
@@jeremylocke3739 I'm wondering the same I want more options to install
Well worth cladding the inside and installing insulation in between which would make it more efficient
nice setup. I run the 5kw for my 18'x18' garage, its insulated and in Ontario Canada. it works great.
Hi, could you please post the link where you purchased your heater in Canada? Also, if you can include info on battery, battery charger and other devices you used to run the heater that would be great. Thank you.
I have one in my garage- 21' x 23' and it heats it fine. I have been using it for two years now with no issue. I did not make a video of it but you can see it running when I make some videos this winter. (also in Canada-Ontario)
Hey, Im also in Ontario Canada. I run the same heater in my 18' x 18' garage and it works pretty good with only 8' ceiling.
What temp do you keep it at?
Thanks for the video. Have you considered taking the heater off grid? In the event you lose power, the heater could be damaged... I just installed an All-In-One diesel heater in my 8x8 work shed with a 7 foot ceiling. Although we don't lose power that often in NW New Jersey, in does happen. I have a 12 volt AGM 35ah battery & a single small solar panel maintaining the battery. So far so good. Holiday Blessings to you Sir & the family.
Yes, I am also going to use a small battery as backup just in case we lose power.
Thank you. One thing that I was looking to have answered -- my shop setup is that best fit for a Chinese heater installed "on its side" -- i.e. with the inlet and exhaust pointed out horizontally versus the vertically pointed down as most are. But no videos I've found so far show this arrangement or mention whether it's a practical arrangement or not. Now I see yours and I'm glad to know that at least some heaters will work mounted in this way. Did you have to select one with this in mind or is it "universal"?
It's very good to know. Thanks also for your comments about efficiency and the usefulness of an battery-assisted 12V power supply. This is a very useful video and I appreciate the info and your work to produce it.
I watched a video of a guy talking about this type of side install. He said it was fine as long as the glow plug was facing up.
@@kdollars101 Thanks. That's kind of a problem, I need to have two back to back, that would make the glow plug on one point up and the other point down. Maybe I can do some juggling to get them to fit side-by side.
But it's good to know, thanks and best wishes,
Hey, it's not pretty, but aluminum tape is great for covering cracks, stopping air leaks.
I just installed a 5kw heater in my garage. So far, I think it'll work out well. I used a battery and charger to ensure there's no way for the power to the heater to be interrupted and cause damage, though.
Hi, I’m glad To see your text. I expect delivery of my heater soon, and was looking for information on having the battery on the charger whilst connected to the heater, and I see that you have done it this way. Can you give me your suggestions on using either trickle or full charge when running. I think that I will buy a separate battery for the heater rather than use my jeep battery battery. I would be grateful for any advice on this, thank you.
Thanks for the video! Nice work shop.
Hello, 3 years later - how is the unit doing? Any issues?
I have a question about the electronics, have you had any issues with condensation? Thanks.
Have you had any issues by running the heater on it's side like that? problems starting it etc?
Hi, great economical setup. Just a bit of info for you. Diesel combustion produces a very small amount of Carbon "monoxide" but does produce Carbon dioxide. If you were to fill your shed with the fumes from the heater the oxygen atmosphere within the shed would be pushed out and you would die from asphyxiation and not Carbon "monoxide" poisoning. I found this out when I had a blown head gasket in my diesel 4x4 and the mechanic was testing the coolant and it kept coming up negative for a blown gasket. The reason. The test tests for carbon "monoxide" suspended in the coolant. Eventually he spat the dummy and pulled the head off anyway and found the blown gasket. When he looked into as to why the test came up negative we found out the information. Petrol & LPG on the other hand are the killers. Not to mention how much moisture LPG puts into the atmosphere. Anyway thanks for the video. Cheers
Thanks for the clarification!
I will add... CO would kill the cat sleeping on the floor before it would ever harm one in a setup such as this. A well-vented webasto to the outdoors is rarely a problem. I'd be more concerned after seeing this if there was not sufficient WRAPPING OF THE EXHAUST PIPE passing through a wooden wall with asbestos or even something like this: www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07C17DZ3F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (FIRE HAZARD)
I am thinking of mounting everything outside and a safe distance from the building then just running insulated heat discharge (and possibly intake) into the building. Probably best to mount the unit higher than the point where the output hose enters the building.
Great video dude are you sure of the size of the garage how hot can you get you work shop my work shop is 23x10
Can only get it 15cc
Did you build the shop? Looks like an excellent FRAMING job!
What makes it so great??
Well done video.
I didn’t read all the comments but if you push the power button and up Arrow you can change the degrees to hertz.
Thanks for that. I bought one for last winter but didn't complete the installation because last winter was much warmer (around 0 instead of -15C). However, I'll get back to it again now.
Just one observation - the instructions state that there must not be an interruption to the electrical supply whilst the unit is operating so how do you cope with only that power supply? I intend to use an ATV batttery with trickle charger for the 12v source.
I think I will incorporate a battery as well just in case.
@@Robbbbooo My installation is now working fine but the testing weather is yet to come.
I used 12v ATV battery and a cheap charger from Lidl. Be aware that there is some current drain even when the heater is off so you might want to include a switch in the 12v supply to the control panel.
Further to my previous comment, I found that the ATV battery and trickle charger combination was not up to maintaining the heater operation at full output for a prolonged period. I have replaced the battery with a small car battery which has a higher capacity. The trickle charger is not enough to maintain the charge at maximum demand but it does replenish the battery sufficiently once the heater stabilises.
@@robt2151 good to know! I think the heater uses about 11 amps at 12V for startup and shut down and about 4 amps constantly. So I think you'd probably want a 5 amp or higher charger?
@@Robbbbooo Yes, the Lidl charger is not really up to this job. It has the annoying defect of not being able to set to charge remotely, eg, via a time switch, as it goes into a monitoring mode when connected and must be manually switched to charging mode.
Hi there, I'm just wondering if you have ever had a power cut while it's been on and if the heater cools down own, I'm assuming it should have some sort of safety system built into it, I'm torn between electric or a battery and solar charge or maybe even a trickle charge, thanks
What about power outage / cuts have you a back up power supply so heater can shut down correctly ?????
Can you provide any details on the fuel pump?
Were there any problems installing the unit with vents coming out the side?
And nice vid thanks for posting... :)
When the heater hits temperature will it come back on when the temperature drops below your set temperature?
I want to install a diesel heater on a shelf inside the van
Can I leave the fresh air inlet to the burning chamber open to the inside of the van and exhaust the exhaust pipe to the outside through the wall to the outside
Thanks
It could be done...BUT...you would have to crack a window to allow fresh air to come inside to replace the exhaust air, and that would make the system less efficient
@@user-cy6gf2pj7y True. I would put anything connected to the combustion chamber outside just in case.
some insulation /??
Great video. Just a couple of questions. What did you use in the wall to isolate the hot exhaust from the surrounding wall. Also the power electrical power unit do you have a link for that. Thanks again really interesting video.
Hi John, I used some leftover roof flashing to protect the wood siding. The power supply I used is here: www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01E6S0JS4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1.
Any 20 amp 120VAC to 12VDC power supply will work.
First just subscribed enjoyed the video and have a question your heater is mounted 90 degrees from the normal bottom exhaust set up any problems with this. I have two of these heaters one for a Florida room and one for the office at my business . This orientation would make a much cleaner installation any information greatly appreciated
Hi John, no issue mounting it 90 degrees as long as you MAKE SURE GLOWPLUG IS ON TOP! Sorry for the caps but that is critical. Enjoy!
@@Robbbbooo I guess I'll have to rotate mine around. I think my glow plug is on the bottom and I've been getting a small leak from the casing
looks like you used some kind metal piece that you screwed to you shed and then ran the exhaust tube thru.I need something like that so i dont burn the piece of wood im going to run the tube thru. What is it called and can i get one on amazon?
I want one of those for my home made camper super nice
They are great, I will use on in our next camper build for sure.
Hi, nice setup and I haven't seen any bad reviews of the diesel heaters. Can you tell me more about the power supply, e.g. what is the 12v rated output?
thanks.
Hi Bruce, its a 20A unit: www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01E6S0JS4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
TheOznucks thanks mate👍
These units are chinese spin-offs of the "webasto" that truckers have been using for years up here in the great white north. Buyer-beware. Pumps, seals, hoses etc. may not be the same quality for longevity as brand name "webasto" BUT.... you get what you pay for and if you are willing to maintain.... all is good?
@@theoznucks281 20A seems like a lot. Have you ever put an amp meter inline to check the actual draw? I was thinking of using a LED striplight power supply. I have a 10amp one spare that I was considering using.
@@jerryschull2122 The wiring schematic shows a 20A fuse. I understand that there is a surge demand on start up which then settles down once the unit is running.
Very informative video. Just got yourself another subscriber. Any plans on insulating the garage? That would also be a good video.
Thanks! I have thought about insulating the space but don't think I will. I use the space between the studs for shelving and storage. I did seal up some of the cracks in the siding with spray foam which has helped a bit. With the diesel heater and the size of the space I can live with it being uninsulated for now.
@@theoznucks281 What about just 1" of closed cell "blue" foam insulation cut to fit between the wall studs and glued to the exterior wall? It would add an approx "R-5" insulating value, as well as tighten up a lot of the air leakage, and wouldn't take up much of the "storage" as you call it
@@user-cy6gf2pj7y Good idea! Hadn't thought of that. 1" would not really effect my storage space!
@@theoznucks281 and make quite a difference to lessen the heat needed in the shop!
No issues with the wood around the mounting plate catching on fire?
I would suggest incoming that the air intake be inside the shop. You have enough air infiltration. This will give you more heat since you are warming up warmer air.
taking the colder air is actually more efficient since it's denser and holds more oxygen, thereby getting more BTU's out of the gas that's burnt.
Also, the air is recirculating inside already, only the combustion intake is outside.
Great video. I am about to do similar though we don’t get the same extreme cold weather. In your update you mentioned adding a 12v battery which has confused me a little. Are you going to replace the 120ac supply with a 12v battery/charger or is it going to be supplied by both with the 12v battery acting as a back up? If the latter how did you wire this? Many thanks - Martin
Hey, have not done this yet but plan to. This is the plan: The diesel heater is connected directly to a 12V battery. That battery is continuously being trickle charged by a battery charger. The battery ensures that if power goes out you have X number of hours of battery backup so the heater doesn't cook itself (by not going through its cool down procedure).
@@theoznucks281 many thanks for the quick reply and explanation. I now understand😁. I will stick with a mains supply as it won’t be used if I’m not present thus negating the cool down issue/threat.
@@blacklablover2982 The issue is that regardless if you are there or not, the cooldown cycle will not happen with power interrupted. From what I have read, without the fan on (pushing that heat out of the unit) the unit will get too hot and be damaged. The heater is designed to have airflow constantly moving through the unit while the combustion chamber is hot. This keeps the internals within the design temperature.
Hello . Hope you are well? Do you still have that diesel heater in your shop and if so have you had any issues with it ? Take care.
Just got a new one from ebay and im not getting power to the controller. Checked fuse and I'm getting 12v to the ecu but no voltage to the controller? What else can i Check
I'm sure I read in the manual that it needs to be installed with the exhaust facing the floor
From all my research and many users inputs the exhaust can be facing sideways, as long as the glow plug is on top (that is critical).
do they all have that clicking sound all the time?
Thanks for vid
VIDEO UPDATE: If you are going to do this, I would highly recommend that instead of using a 12V to 120V converter (like I did) you connect the heater directly to a 12V battery, and then have that battery constantly being trickle charged by a battery charger. These heaters require a cool down cycle - if the power goes out while heater is on, it wont go through this cool down cycle, and may be damaged. The 12V battery provides you with a backup power source in this scenario and gives you time to properly shut it down (while mains power is off).
I use my boat battery, with a charger
I guess im asking the wrong place but does someone know of a tool to get back into an Instagram account??
I somehow forgot the password. I would appreciate any assistance you can give me
@Seth Briar Instablaster ;)
@Jose Peter I really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff now.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Jose Peter it did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thank you so much, you really help me out :D
hi , what wattage is the 240v to 12v transformer . please
I think I'd insulate and install a mini woodstove as my first choice, but this was interesting nonetheless. Going to retire to Mexico or the Mediterranean so no idea why I'm watching this.
Buy a tube of sealant and seal the holes in your walls. Your losing heat while running the heater. Its $5 and you'll save on fuel while keeping shop heater for longer
I noticed you used different fuel line then normally comes with the heater, do you find it affects performance at all? I read that the hard plastic type fuel lines they come with are meant for it as they don’t expand with the pump pulses and provide the heater with proper fuel. But my problem is my fuel line leaks at the rubber to plastic hose connection and I want to replace it with a nicer quality fuel line
Hey! What is shown in the video is what came with my heater. I would just buy the equivalent ID fuel line at the parts store if you are having issues with what was provided.
Door bell transformer works good for power 12 or 24 volts option
I bet you could triple the efficiency if you insulated your shed! Small snow pack...jeez!
Hope you have a battery as well cuz if the power goes out and then just stops you'll fry to CPU inside the unit from the Heat
Hmm I didn’t know you could mount it without intake and exhaust facing down
how much amps dose this thing pull???
I'm just prepping to do an install in Manitoba and have been researching the same question. My searches so far have led me to a start up amperage of 11 to 12 with a 120 volt connection. Once running it should drop closer to 4 or less. I'm planning on a 20 amp supply and suggest no smaller than a 15 amp supply.
Great Vid, THANK YOU
Appreciate the feedback! Hope it helped
do you have a link to that electrical converter?
Would it not work more efficiently with the air intake inside rather than burning freezing cold air from outside....just a thought...
combustion air is better cold so it's outside with the exhaust. the heat exchange cold intake is inside the building, so you are recirc-ing the "hot" air.
How is the heater working now that its been a year? I noticed you mounted yours sideways, with the intake and exhaust through the wall, is that an option? We just bought an 8kw unit and will be installing it on our remote cabin this weekend and was curious.
Hey! Working great! as mentioned in my update comment below I would run the heater off a 12volt battery which is connected to a battery charger to avoid cooking the unit if you have a power outage. You can mount the heater sideways as long as the glow plug is on the top side.
If you hold the setting button and arrow up ( top two buttons) it will allow you to adjust the hrz of the pump.
I will try that!
@@theoznucks281 The one I have, looks identical to yours, hold the "OK" button down while also holding the "UP" button in order to go into HZ mode from temp mode. Do it again and it will revert to it's previous mode.
Still working good?
Yep, just did a bunch of woodwork in there all day yesterday. -3°C outside, cozy and warm in the shop.
Does anyone happen to know what the start up amp draw is like? Wondering if I can use my Bluetti eb240 to power a 5kw heater.
Hi from scotland amp draw while glow plug on is about 9amps then when heater running, roughly about 1 amp ish
@@isleeparoundoverland7583 Thank you very much
What is the fuel consumption on one of these units
I'm surprised installing exhaust sideways isn't an issue.
The exhaust is fan forced so it isn't an a problem. You can point it down, much like it comes out of the heater itself.
@@74willy81 as long as the glow plug is on a top corner it is OK.
Mounting it sideways on the wall, does it leak fuel?
No, as long as you have the glow plug on the top side.
Hmm guess I must have put mine on the bottom then. I had it leak during the first start up because I left it priming too long. Just a spoon full worth. Hasn't leaked since.
@@court2379 mine was positioned the right way and was leaking. The hose that is supplied is to big for the connector on the heater itself but too small for the pump and filter lol I had to cut larger hose to slide over The plastic hose to connect the pump and filter. For the heater connection I just used some sealant around the base and let dry and it stopped leaking with a hose clamp of course.
@@derekgonet I installed it according to the documentation, which allows several orientations, so what is the right way? I put the the ports up, to vent thru the roof.
@@court2379 I was going by what rob said ? With the glow plug up top.
If power goes out while heater is running it will cook the electronics of the heater without proper cool down.
This is a good point, and if you think such a possibility exists, it's better to get the power from a battery or UPS.
I am going to get a small battery and charger to address that, thanks for the comment!
Do you have the exhaust install sideways?
He does. They're designed to be pointed up to 90 degrees to either side.
@@styledliving Only 90 degrees on ONE SIDE. When mounted on side glow plug must be on higher than burn chamber.
On video, that space doesn't look like 10'x20'.
more like 10x10
Dude just throw up some cheap white or pink insulation board which will save on fuel, power and heat!
How much fuel does it use a week?
Depends how much you use it. If its a few hours a night you'll probably get 2 weeks from 10L.
How loud is this thing?
Depends on fan speed, similar to house 20" box fan on high, but it normally doesn't stay on high. But it might trying to warm a larger area.
Cheaper to run than electric?
Yes significantly.
Just an opinion,your heater hose out take, aim it away from your diesel.
If you have your fresh air intake on the INSIDE of the building. It will work much better. Doing it the way you are. It has to heat the cold outside air
Fresh air intake on the INSIDE of the building my heater works wayyyyyyyy wayyyy wayyyyy better
I put mine in my RV How You Like Me Now
Just buy a new controller, cost like 16 bucks
That place was insulated it would be too hot
Hi with you installing the diesel heater on its side have you had any problems ?
Nope, just make sure glow plug is on top.