I fixed my inducer motor today. The issue not mentioned on this video. It was a Rheem (FASCO brand inducer). The plastic tube, the end that connects to the inducer had to be unplugged. Blow away the stuffed debris and plug back in. This allows the sensor to detect airflow to the inducer.
You missed one that I came across before. The gaskets around the inducers go bad or just deteriorate and fall off. Not letting the pressure switches to close.
@@natepeterson7145 Ditto. I noticed a string of silicone gasket coming off the outside. Made me wonder if the same thing has happened inside. I hear fan interference, but I'm not sure what's causing it. Maybe just out of balance. It's a Carrier 320725-756 motor assembly.
It is not an “Inducer” motor, it is an INDUCTION motor. This is because it operates by the AC inducing a rotation magnetic field in the windings to generate rotational torque. That said your video was very good!
i hope my capacitor is the issue. a 3.00 part but can cause a headache of uncomfortable cold nights lol. Hard to find the right part also. HVAC whole sellers hoard the parts for HVAC technicians.
Wife called while I was out of town for 3 days and said furnace not working. Came home, pulled cover off and found 14 year old inducer motor humming loudly and very seized & red hot to the touch. $335 later for new Fasco unit and back in business. Can't imagine what a pro would charge to replace, probably try and sell me a new gas furnace for $5,500 along with $600 duct cleaning upsell. Great videos. Keep it up. Should have went into HVAC as I like the puzzle-solving challenge.
In my area, my biggest problem is mud wasps building nests either in the blower wheel itself, in the fan housing, which disrupts the vacuum effect on the pitot tube, and sometimes inside the motor itself, not allowing the motor to turn. Out of 250 plus units that I work on, I will have 20-30 units a year that won't start due to mud wasps.
Wow that's is a lot of mud wasps. We have some here but not that much. Its crazy how location changes possible/likely service issues due to weather and insects!
Trane xv95, 10 years old. Just got dead inducer motor running again by r&r and jiggling wiring at the circuit board. Went a long way round to reach this conclusion. Trace back your voltages folks!
New to the field, had a weird one this week 17 year old 80% Lennox 1. Initially Inducer motor would only spin for 5 seconds and stop, and it would repeat this process 2. I checked my pressure switch and it was working properly 3. I checked the amount of draft being produced within the 5 seconds and was enough to close pressure switch 4. Hose and port were not clogged 5. Was getting power, 120v to inducer and power was cutting after 5 seconds 6. Reading resistance on inducer and amps were slightly over when running within those 5 seconds 7. Replaced board because I was getting no error code, code was reading normal operation and Board was clearly fried on the back side 8. Replaced board and same issue 9. Ended up still losing power to inducer after about 5 seconds even when I disconnected the inducer 10. Board was getting power but losing 120v going to inducer after 5 seconds 11. Checked my rollouts and limit and they were all good as well Not sure what it could have been, if anyone could let me know what it could have possibly been, possibly loose wire ?
I know it has been awhile,but if your filter is dirty the temperature will rise quickly and shut it off on high limit or if it has a draft limit on the exhaust it will open and cut power all together .
I replaced my inducer motor and blower wheel because of bearing noise. Got them separately on Amazon. Now I got a lot of orange flame. Flame looks like crap. It was nice and blue before. Also seems like the flames are not being pulled/stretch enough inside the exchanger because the flames are not a narrow as before. Maybe didn't adjust the fan blade on the motor shaft far enough out? Maybe the new cheap Amazon blower wheel sucks? I got a nanometer, but haven't checked the vacuum on the inducer yet. Not sure if the manual has a spec or not.
I ran into a Goodman furnace where the gasket that sealed between the housing top and bottom housing came loose and wrapped around the shaft on the inducer. This housing was hermetically sealed and is not meant to be taken apart.
I just had a call that the inducer motor wouldn't start but the capacitor and winding resistance were both good and wheel spinning freely. It's just getting hot. I know it failed but what could be the reason?
It could be that the winding resin has broken down over time or due to a bad capacitor at some earlier time and even though it is not shorted or open, the electrical resistance is lower than it should be, thanks!
Symptom: When I set thermostat to 75°F to call for heat, it works for about 5 minutes then turns OFF. My inducer motor is marked to turn CCW. When I freehand turn it, it binds. But when I spin it CW it freely spins. Is my inducer motor shot? If so, what brick and mortar store would sell to residents? I've never ordered anything on line, I'm old school. Any suggestions.
How does the pressure switch affect the functionality of the inducer motor? The sequence of op is the inducer motor runs first then the pressure switch either picks it up or not then closes the signal to initial burn.
Stupid question, I’m using one for a coal forge. The holes that seem to blow out at the bottom of the inducer, are they where the hulk of the air goes? If so, why? Also, if I were to plug those up, would air pressure coming out of the 2” end become greater?
I replaced the blower motor on the bottom half of my Rheem RGDG 07NAMGR. That fan is working, but the inducer is not coming on , (which should be 1rst in the sequence). The blower fan comes on immediately which should come on after the inducer fan allows the ignitor to heat up and turn on the burners. Im not getting voltage to inducer fan until i unplug a line to the limit swich. I think the reason im not getting no voltage to the ignitor is becuz the inducer fan hasnt completed its sequence. Is there anything besides tge limit switch that would orevent the inducer fan going 1rst and make the blower fan run constantly ?
When turning on the heater on the thermostat, am I suppose to hear a clicking noise from one of the relays turning on? I am not hearing that on my control board.
Hello AC Service Tech LLC, I'm hoping you can help me with a question I have. So, I have an inducer motor on a Trane gas furnace and the pins on the control board do not have an voltage, so of course the inducer motor does not start. When I supply power to the inducer motor (by connecting wire to door switch to the inducer motor), the motor tries to start but is appears to be seized, but gets power. The issue I have is that because of this, I thought originally thought the motherboard was bad (even though I was getting power into the board and the signal from the thermostat & power into and out of the transformer). Is there a reason why, the motherboard would not supply power to the inducer motor and if so, once I replaced the inducer motor how would the motherboard then be able to supply power? Am I doing something wrong here that I am just missing, or is it just as simple as, supply power to the inducer and if it is seized then replace the inducer motor? But still how will the motherboard know to supply power to the new inducer?
Thank you for sharing. Any thoughts on replacing the squirrel cages on the motors? Replacement wheels are not the easiest to find. Also, oiling the motor. Thanks …
My problem is the inducer motor will not shut off. The entire ignition sequence works fine...but once the furnace lights and the blower starts, the inducer motor continues to run. Bad solenoid?
My furnace started making kind of loud noise when it starts, for a few days now its dead,, ignited comes on but no flame or inducer motor, just the glowing igniter,, any ideas?
I have noticed that our TRANE XV90 inducer fan runs for a while after the furnace reaches the temperature that is on the thermostat. Sometimes for 15 minutes or more. When I shutdown the furnace; either by the master switch or the thermostat and then turn it back on, the inducer fan is quiet. This is not the main air flow fan directed into the house, but the smaller fan connected internally to the furnace - the inducer fan. This fan & its smaller squirrel cage appears to draw combustion air from the furnace and exhaust it out of the house via the PVC pipe installed. This fan is a PSC unit as it does not have a square variable speed unit - it is simply a cylindrical motor mounted to this small squirrel cage - I think it is a two-speed unit though. Any thoughts as to why this inducer motor would run on for so long after the furnace reaches the temperature set on the thermostat? Thanks in advance!
I have trane xv95. High efficiency furnaces are supposed to run on after the thermostat reaches temp so that they can scavange all the heat out of the heat exchanger (I think). Also, check that your thermostat is maybe keeping R and W connected for those 15 minutes.
Could you explain why my inducer motor is kicking on for a few seconds and cutting back off repeatedly even when the thermostat wiring has been disconnected? Would that be a relay problem?
Having the same problem rn I don’t know why it turns on for a few seconds then will turn off and does it a several times a day, even when the thermostat is off :/
I have a carrier furnace with inducer with an AO Smith motor. The inducer makes a whining noise for about 2-3 seconds when the furnace starts up and after that there are no abnormal sounds coming from it. Any thoughts on my problem. Thanks, excellent learning video.
Hello guy hey I'm getting 60 then it'll climb to about 75v from inducer motor port and that's after ijump out R and W thermo contacts say atleast 7 or 8 times continuously most times iwill just hear the click then nothing, red led is continuously blinking from when isend 120 to it then speeds up when ihit the heat. Came to basement one day and breaker was tripped inspected board and is burned up behind the (cont) tab connector and there's nothing attached to the connector, any thoughts?
In french please ,I really want that, I am a refrigeration and air conditioning technician j'ai beaucoup envie de ça, je suis technicien en froid et climatisation !!!
On a different topic: Who makes an actual 23.20mm line wrench? The refrigeration 1/2" flare nuts which are forged I am told mike out at 23.20 yet 24mm wrenches are way too sloppy. 15/16ths ditto. I have tried every source I can think of as well as searches to no avail. Even McMaster Carr the home of everything does not even carry a 23mm flare wrench. I have some crows foot that include that size but again nothing matches up. I like to feel my pressure with some accuracy and a sloppy wrench does not allow that as well as rounding of the nuts. I see nobody addressing this except for recommending adjustable wrenches which are often too bulky to get into tight spaces and again can back off creating problems. Know of any source for a quality spec flare wrench? Thanks. Doug
@@natepeterson7145 Not when you want them to be. They are contrary little buffers. Hard to find and when I did it was off the other way 23.90mm. Almost impossible to find as well, even a normal combination wrench is hard to come by for some reason. I have a couple but same problem. Most sets skip 23 mm for some reason. It is not equivalent to any imperial sizes either. May end up welding a 24 mm up and machining it down. Royal pain.
I like how you had real examples of the various problems.
Fab video. No heat here. Can’t hear the inducer mtr coming on. Thx
I fixed my inducer motor today. The issue not mentioned on this video. It was a Rheem (FASCO brand inducer). The plastic tube, the end that connects to the inducer had to be unplugged. Blow away the stuffed debris and plug back in. This allows the sensor to detect airflow to the inducer.
I am thinking this is my problem. I vlow on the hose and there is water in there, in fact I sucked some out.
You missed one that I came across before. The gaskets around the inducers go bad or just deteriorate and fall off. Not letting the pressure switches to close.
Let me guess Carrier.
That's a good one too!
@@natepeterson7145 Ditto. I noticed a string of silicone gasket coming off the outside. Made me wonder if the same thing has happened inside. I hear fan interference, but I'm not sure what's causing it. Maybe just out of balance. It's a Carrier 320725-756 motor assembly.
It is not an “Inducer” motor, it is an INDUCTION motor. This is because it operates by the AC inducing a rotation magnetic field in the windings to generate rotational torque. That said your video was very good!
It's called an inducer motor. It doesn't mean it isn't an induction motor but that's what the manufacturers call it.
Nathan, thanks for that, but what does it 'induce' I thought it was a fan motor?@@Ntevangelist
@@whitefields5595 I think it induces a draft from inlet air to exhaust air
i hope my capacitor is the issue. a 3.00 part but can cause a headache of uncomfortable cold nights lol. Hard to find the right part also. HVAC whole sellers hoard the parts for HVAC technicians.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge on how to check the inducer motor.
Glad to help Fernando!
Wife called while I was out of town for 3 days and said furnace not working. Came home, pulled cover off and found 14 year old inducer motor humming loudly and very seized & red hot to the touch. $335 later for new Fasco unit and back in business. Can't imagine what a pro would charge to replace, probably try and sell me a new gas furnace for $5,500 along with $600 duct cleaning upsell. Great videos. Keep it up. Should have went into HVAC as I like the puzzle-solving challenge.
Thanks for letting me know!
In my area, my biggest problem is mud wasps building nests either in the blower wheel itself, in the fan housing, which disrupts the vacuum effect on the pitot tube, and sometimes inside the motor itself, not allowing the motor to turn. Out of 250 plus units that I work on, I will have 20-30 units a year that won't start due to mud wasps.
Looks like you work in an apartment complex, I am imagining how people gonna be calling you with attitude.
@@herculesskinny2030 actually a school system, but still with attitude.
Wow that's is a lot of mud wasps. We have some here but not that much. Its crazy how location changes possible/likely service issues due to weather and insects!
This video was amazing, saved me so much cost and effort!
Very simple and concise! You're the best thank you
Awesome thanks. Top shelf help.
Excellent video. Very complete and concise.
EXCELLENT and concise, as usual. Thank you for packing a lot of great information into a short video!!!
Thanks so much Ma Ma!
Awsome. Expecting a video on commercial boilers burner operation
From Denver Colorado, Thank you.
Awesome.
Great job explaining as always. Ed
Thanks a lot Ed!
Nice video, explained alot and saved me some time, basically had a kinked pressure switch hose instead of new inducer at $350 or so
Trane xv95, 10 years old. Just got dead inducer motor running again by r&r and jiggling wiring at the circuit board. Went a long way round to reach this conclusion. Trace back your voltages folks!
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR MAKING THIS!!!!
New to the field, had a weird one this week
17 year old 80% Lennox
1. Initially Inducer motor would only spin for 5 seconds and stop, and it would repeat this process
2. I checked my pressure switch and it was working properly
3. I checked the amount of draft being produced within the 5 seconds and was enough to close pressure switch
4. Hose and port were not clogged
5. Was getting power, 120v to inducer and power was cutting after 5 seconds
6. Reading resistance on inducer and amps were slightly over when running within those 5 seconds
7. Replaced board because I was getting no error code, code was reading normal operation and Board was clearly fried on the back side
8. Replaced board and same issue
9. Ended up still losing power to inducer after about 5 seconds even when I disconnected the inducer
10. Board was getting power but losing 120v going to inducer after 5 seconds
11. Checked my rollouts and limit and they were all good as well
Not sure what it could have been, if anyone could let me know what it could have possibly been, possibly loose wire ?
I know it has been awhile,but if your filter is dirty the temperature will rise quickly and shut it off on high limit or if it has a draft limit on the exhaust it will open and cut power all together .
awesome Craig!!!!!! thank you for sharing!!!!!.
Thanks a lot Jimmy!
I replaced my inducer motor and blower wheel because of bearing noise. Got them separately on Amazon. Now I got a lot of orange flame. Flame looks like crap. It was nice and blue before. Also seems like the flames are not being pulled/stretch enough inside the exchanger because the flames are not a narrow as before.
Maybe didn't adjust the fan blade on the motor shaft far enough out?
Maybe the new cheap Amazon blower wheel sucks?
I got a nanometer, but haven't checked the vacuum on the inducer yet. Not sure if the manual has a spec or not.
I ran into a Goodman furnace where the gasket that sealed between the housing top and bottom housing came loose and wrapped around the shaft on the inducer. This housing was hermetically sealed and is not meant to be taken apart.
Nice and thanks for sharing that one!
Thanks for another great video. Keep up the great work!
Thanks Jonathan!
Thanks for the knowledge
Glad to help neilvester!
I just had a call that the inducer motor wouldn't start but the capacitor and winding resistance were both good and wheel spinning freely. It's just getting hot. I know it failed but what could be the reason?
It could be that the winding resin has broken down over time or due to a bad capacitor at some earlier time and even though it is not shorted or open, the electrical resistance is lower than it should be, thanks!
@@kidowan. That's what I was thinking about as well but what is a good reading supposed to be? If my memory is right the one I had was 40 to 50 ohmms
@@acservicetechchannel I hope there's a normal resistance value range for venter motors
Another excellent video...I've run into several of the described problems and all have been covered well...Kuto's for a fine teaching session.
Thank you very much Vern!
I'm only getting 60 volt output from board terminal supplying voltage to inducer motor. Any suggestions?
Thanks Craig! When it comes pitching of the exhaust pipe can you do more than a quarter inch per foot
My inducer motor does not have allen screw release only has a press on bolt holding on fan how do i get fan off.
I use tip cleaners , you can get them any place that sells welding supply
That is certainly a good tip!
My inducer motor has 124vac at motor but does not turn on. Any ideas?
bad inducer motor/capacitor. Do all the checks in this video!
Bad relay in brand new commercial RTU control board
Symptom: When I set thermostat to 75°F to call for heat, it works for about 5 minutes then turns OFF. My inducer motor is marked to turn CCW. When I freehand turn it, it binds. But when I spin it CW it freely spins. Is my inducer motor shot? If so, what brick and mortar store would sell to residents? I've never ordered anything on line, I'm old school. Any suggestions.
How does the pressure switch affect the functionality of the inducer motor? The sequence of op is the inducer motor runs first then the pressure switch either picks it up or not then closes the signal to initial burn.
GREAT VIDEOS
Great info. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Phil!
Stupid question, I’m using one for a coal forge. The holes that seem to blow out at the bottom of the inducer, are they where the hulk of the air goes? If so, why? Also, if I were to plug those up, would air pressure coming out of the 2” end become greater?
I replaced the blower motor on the bottom half of my Rheem RGDG 07NAMGR. That fan is working, but the inducer is not coming on , (which should be 1rst in the sequence). The blower fan comes on immediately which should come on after the inducer fan allows the ignitor to heat up and turn on the burners.
Im not getting voltage to inducer fan until i unplug a line to the limit swich.
I think the reason im not getting no voltage to the ignitor is becuz the inducer fan hasnt completed its sequence.
Is there anything besides tge limit switch that would orevent the inducer fan going 1rst and make the blower fan run constantly ?
Thanks
Hello, nice video! I have a American standard 90 single stage furnace . Where is the capacitor located in the inducer motor?
Watching again sir nice video
When turning on the heater on the thermostat, am I suppose to hear a clicking noise from one of the relays turning on? I am not hearing that on my control board.
Thanks again for the videos.
🍺🍺🍺🥃🥃🎯🏌🏻♀️
Stay safe.
Retired (werk'n)keyboard super tech. Wear your safety glasses!
Thanks!
Does the inducer motor produce a positive pressure or vacuum? I thought the pressure switch was a vacuum switch, but I might be wrong.
Thank you for sharing sir
Dave, thanks!
Nice Video, Good info. Can inducer motor have no capacitor? I can't find my Capacitor. I have a Heil Quaker (ICP) Furnace NNE100F20A1
Hello AC Service Tech LLC, I'm hoping you can help me with a question I have. So, I have an inducer motor on a Trane gas furnace and the pins on the control board do not have an voltage, so of course the inducer motor does not start. When I supply power to the inducer motor (by connecting wire to door switch to the inducer motor), the motor tries to start but is appears to be seized, but gets power. The issue I have is that because of this, I thought originally thought the motherboard was bad (even though I was getting power into the board and the signal from the thermostat & power into and out of the transformer). Is there a reason why, the motherboard would not supply power to the inducer motor and if so, once I replaced the inducer motor how would the motherboard then be able to supply power? Am I doing something wrong here that I am just missing, or is it just as simple as, supply power to the inducer and if it is seized then replace the inducer motor? But still how will the motherboard know to supply power to the new inducer?
Where can I get that brass tee for the manometer? I cant find any.
Nevermind found them
Glad you found it!
Thank you for sharing. Any thoughts on replacing the squirrel cages on the motors? Replacement wheels are not the easiest to find. Also, oiling the motor. Thanks …
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On metal inducer motors, we usually replace the squirrel cage but on plastic housings, its the whole thing, thanks!
My problem is the inducer motor will not shut off. The entire ignition sequence works fine...but once the furnace lights and the blower starts, the inducer motor continues to run. Bad solenoid?
I need to know what to do if the inducer motor comes on and doesnt turn off
There is a power to relay but no power to inducer. And relay is not located at motherboard. Replaced relay. Still not working. Please advise…
.
What if the Inducer motor only Works in AC / Fan Mode, But on Heat mode all it does is just Hum ?
My furnace started making kind of loud noise when it starts, for a few days now its dead,, ignited comes on but no flame or inducer motor, just the glowing igniter,, any ideas?
I have noticed that our TRANE XV90 inducer fan runs for a while after the furnace reaches the temperature that is on the thermostat. Sometimes for 15 minutes or more.
When I shutdown the furnace; either by the master switch or the thermostat and then turn it back on, the inducer fan is quiet.
This is not the main air flow fan directed into the house, but the smaller fan connected internally to the furnace - the inducer fan.
This fan & its smaller squirrel cage appears to draw combustion air from the furnace and exhaust it out of the house via the PVC pipe installed. This fan is a PSC unit as it does not have a square variable speed unit - it is simply a cylindrical motor mounted to this small squirrel cage - I think it is a two-speed unit though.
Any thoughts as to why this inducer motor would run on for so long after the furnace reaches the temperature set on the thermostat? Thanks in advance!
I have trane xv95. High efficiency furnaces are supposed to run on after the thermostat reaches temp so that they can scavange all the heat out of the heat exchanger (I think). Also, check that your thermostat is maybe keeping R and W connected for those 15 minutes.
Could you explain why my inducer motor is kicking on for a few seconds and cutting back off repeatedly even when the thermostat wiring has been disconnected? Would that be a relay problem?
Having the same problem rn I don’t know why it turns on for a few seconds then will turn off and does it a several times a day, even when the thermostat is off :/
I have a carrier furnace with inducer with an AO Smith motor. The inducer makes a whining noise for about 2-3 seconds when the furnace starts up and after that there are no abnormal sounds coming from it. Any thoughts on my problem. Thanks, excellent learning video.
Same whirring noise on start up - any diagnosis or repair tips...
Good stuff
Thanks!
Hello guy hey I'm getting 60 then it'll climb to about 75v from inducer motor port and that's after ijump out R and W thermo contacts say atleast 7 or 8 times continuously most times iwill just hear the click then nothing, red led is continuously blinking from when isend 120 to it then speeds up when ihit the heat. Came to basement one day and breaker was tripped inspected board and is burned up behind the (cont) tab connector and there's nothing attached to the connector, any thoughts?
Is it possible to replace only relay switch on control board ?.
Not unless you solder a new one in that is exactly the same, thanks!
Got a PTAC that runs the AC compressor on and off while in heating mode. How can I fix this?
That sounds like there may be a thermostat, thermostat wire, or control board intermittent issue, thanks!
Wondering if someone would share what resistor Craig called the bleed resistor in this video?
Any resistor of any value can be used to bleed or discharge a capacitor. The higher the resistance value, the slower the cap will bleed out.
In french please ,I really want that, I am a refrigeration and air conditioning technician j'ai beaucoup envie de ça, je suis technicien en froid et climatisation !!!
On a different topic: Who makes an actual 23.20mm line wrench? The refrigeration 1/2" flare nuts which are forged I am told mike out at 23.20 yet 24mm wrenches are way too sloppy. 15/16ths ditto. I have tried every source I can think of as well as searches to no avail. Even McMaster Carr the home of everything does not even carry a 23mm flare wrench. I have some crows foot that include that size but again nothing matches up. I like to feel my pressure with some accuracy and a sloppy wrench does not allow that as well as rounding of the nuts. I see nobody addressing this except for recommending adjustable wrenches which are often too bulky to get into tight spaces and again can back off creating problems. Know of any source for a quality spec flare wrench? Thanks. Doug
Buy a couple chinese 23 mm wrenches boom, problem solves. One's bound to be a little off.
@@natepeterson7145 Not when you want them to be. They are contrary little buffers. Hard to find and when I did it was off the other way 23.90mm. Almost impossible to find as well, even a normal combination wrench is hard to come by for some reason. I have a couple but same problem. Most sets skip 23 mm for some reason. It is not equivalent to any imperial sizes either. May end up welding a 24 mm up and machining it down. Royal pain.
Oh yes, those krappy Fasco disposable motors, overpriced junk!
Great video!
My Fasco just went bad after 20 years. It lasted a long time.
@@chadlove3443...Yes, but no way to rebuild them. Metal junk straight to the landfill. 🤨
@@cinnamongmc5430 So is everything else. I replaced it with an aftermarket one, we'll see how long that lasts.
do you help take the class for HVAC
We just have our free and for-purchase resources at www.acservicetech.com thanks!
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Inducer motor won't stay running
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