Nice job. Handle the nay-Sayers, and gets the job done. Every application has a reason. Bottom line: What is functional, and saves time without destroying the end product (short or long term). Thanks for showing us how to complete a good job.
We use loctite power grab. Dries in about 30 minutes and you just use a smalle knife to smooth it out then use finish mud. You can use that in a well lit area at eye level as well
You can use spray foam just to fill the gap for your Mud and tape. I've used fiberglass insulation or spray foam all the time just to provide a backing for my mud and tape. I of course tape over the entire patch with paper tape, thus giving it good strength.
It would be helpful if you explained why you wouldn't do this anywhere but 16' in the air. You already have the scaffolding there, so I'd be inclined to do the "correct" repair there and not take the chance of a callback. I agree with others that it would be good for you to use your garage test wall to show us the pitfalls (and ways to mitigate them) of doing this. I was planning on doing this on a bathroom fixture over a mirror. I dug out the spray foam just a bit (1/8") and intend to use tape _and_ cut the mud+foam away from the box so mounting the light won't tug on the repair.
Hell I spray foamed a 6”x11” irregular hole in my lounge wall. 3 cans later, a bit of mud, a ton of sanding and some paint and you can’t see it..... from the back yard. One day I will have to move the fake pot plant and repair it properly.
As long as it's under the plate or fixture, it's not going to be an aesthetic problem. But you should use the intumescent (orange) version of the foam; it's about twice the price, but it will block the path of flames out of and air into a smouldering electrical box and may be what it takes to meet code.
For anyone doing a fair amount of foaming I'd suggest just getting a gun and the refill cans. They end up being cheaper and have more foam, are reusable, and the orange also doesn't have a cost premium.
As a maintenance director in property management for over twenty years, I have used spray foam for drywall gaps, cracks and repairs under so many different circumstances, as long as you can make it structurally sound and it look nice and clean, no one will care. Spray foam is a useful means to an end of a unique subset of obstacles. If you know how to use it, spray foam can save you so much time and money. I absolutely love it and I keep on hand for all types of construction.
This is OK for that junction box, but for recessed lighting, people need to know that some recessed light fixtures require an air gap for heat dissipation. In those, adjacent insulation of any kind is an electrical code violation.
Ben I suggest doing some tests with spray foam in different situations and seeing how it compares. I don't see many other videos on this topic. That would make a cool video! My intuition is that it could be useful in many cases where it will be taped over. At least I don't think it would be visually obvious though as to strength... I guess that's part of the test.
One thing you left out is it is highly flammable product and you should use a flammable retardant spray foam around any electrical area, especially a open junction box. If there were an electrical problem it could catch fire. I believe the color of the foam is orange.
The orange fire stop foam burns incredibly well. It's for blocking air drafts to prevent fire spreading, but it's not flame retardant in any way, at least last I checked
Another helpful video. I have been subscribed for some months now. The videos are easy to understand and clearly enunciated. Congratulations on a great second career. Happy Trails!
I hate when people don’t drop their backsplash down a few in behind the oven. Step up your game. On the other hand this might be my favorite RUclips channel of all time. Keep up the awesome posts!
Only in this case? What about insulation/air sealing? Electric boxes, fan/light boxes, outlets, etc. are all great locations for air leaks and bug infiltration. There are companies that make products specifically for this purpose and some of them are just spray foams.
Bondo or Elmer’s epoxy wood filler work well. I keep both along with 5, 20, and 45 minute setting compound. The epoxy is my go to it sets quick gets hard but is still soft enough to sand and it takes paint great.
Like Essential Craftsman says; "know you tolerances". I think there's two ditches; sloppyness and perfection. I think I've been in number two most if the time, and am learning to see things in a more practical way. The best place to get rid of perfection is among farmer's.
I have yet to find any high density foam in a can. I don’t believe it is possible as it hasn’t happened yet. It’s all less than 2 pounds/cubic foot. (Even the Locktite Tite foam). I have used 2 part foams in 6, 8 and 12 pound varieties. It cures hard but not practical to use on vertical surfaces.
Curious, have you ever just used the foam as a filler/backer a proper mud and tape fix? Rather than just a scab of mud applied to the cut foam alone? I've used foam to fill a void, then cut it out to just below the wall, then filled with mud, then taped it out like any other repair. I was very happy with the result
Interesting & intuitive reasoning. How large/small were the gaps? What foam did u usr What tool did u use to remove some of the dried foam & how deep was the foam removal b4 spackle used?
@@petersmith3639 I noticed that, while it's a light fitting so technically doesn't matter but I'm sure an electrical inspector would call you up on that scenario
I'm wondering why your channel is called Vancouver carpenter when it seems the bulk of your videos are of drywall taping and repairs? Seems like you know a lot about drywall but of the carpentry videos I've seen seem not as specialized(door installs guided by the camera man)? Could be a RUclips algorithm that only shows me certain videos as well but from what I seen I found it odd
And how much did that can of foam cost? Once you use a can you better use all you can because it will not keep on the self. Waste of money and time. A couple coats of 5 min mud and finished in no time.
I use many time spray foam ..on drywall where is a big gap for inside corner after that i put paper tape and mud.. i don't know is ok..but in 5 years the inside corner is same no crak. (Ps. My english is not perfect, i hope so you understand me.. i want a answer...if is ok or no)
I recently gave Loctite foam a try. If you use the "dense" foam (not large gap) a try it is much harder than regular spray foam. I think this is because it is closed cell vs open. Would that change the answer orexpand the usage?
Come on - realty?!? YOU?!? If you were waiting a few hours for the foam to cure before cutting it, why don't you go get some 5 min mud (or 20, or whatever) and do a quick patch with some mesh tape? Throw a little heat on it and you can paint that sucka up in a couple of hours and its actually.... done correctly. Little bit of a let down, sir...
I'm doing a drywall job right now and I have about 17 repairs to do from the electricians, and had to clean up the mess they left behind, so, fuck 'em!
Kinda bad, that you didn't ever say in the video WHY you would not do that anywhere within eye level, DIY beginners need to be told why it's bad too, not just "dont do it!" :)
J@@user-bj7kt9vm2cSIGH* true Elections do not like water, rain keeps the voters at home. Now I'm going to take that mess of English you made and try cypher it into what I think you meant. *~ it's a fact. Electricity doesn't like water, you have to turn it off before using the spray foam. It's a highly flammable material * [sic] Well the fact is ELECTRICITY does like Water [minus pure H2O which is fairly non conductive] just like it "likes" copper. However, what has water got to do with this foam? There is NO water in Polyurethane and polyisocyanurate foams. Also for you and your neighbors edification, dancing in a mud puddle during a lighting storm and waving a metal rod in the air is not a good idea. To continue, being mindful, who would spray the foam into the electrical junction box? Do you see this guy doing that? No, in fact there are NO open or bare electrical contacts exposed. Flammability, here in the modern healthier and safer part of the world there are flame retardants added to it so as to not increase the fire load of a burning structure. In conclusion I have no idea WTF happened at your neighbors home but I'm fairly certain it was not what Vancouver Carpenter did and whom ever did what they did was seemingly inept.
Never use expanding foam near electric cable. It damages the outer sheath and will cause you electrical issues and possible fire. DO NOT USE EXPANDING FOAM NEAR ELECTRIC CABLE
Ridiculous comment. Expanding foam is used regularly in homes that have spray insulation for the interior walls and attic insulation. Not to mention most building codes require it be sprayed around any wires that penetrate fire block. The only damage that could possibly occur is when there isn't enough space for the foam to expand properly and it causes pinching of the wiring. The outer sheath will not deteriorate when coming in contact with expanding foam.
Terrible video. You should have dug out 10mm of the foam and then filled. The foam is only there to add a backer to the filler. Don’t copy this guy in the video.
Good tip there. Not a lot of options to pre fill that.
Just spray foam it bruh 🤣
Dead jaja
Nice job. Handle the nay-Sayers, and gets the job done. Every application has a reason. Bottom line: What is functional, and saves time without destroying the end product (short or long term). Thanks for showing us how to complete a good job.
Great hack Ben, you sure expanded that one.
Is that you dad?
Yes Luke
We use loctite power grab. Dries in about 30 minutes and you just use a smalle knife to smooth it out then use finish mud. You can use that in a well lit area at eye level as well
You can use spray foam just to fill the gap for your Mud and tape. I've used fiberglass insulation or spray foam all the time just to provide a backing for my mud and tape. I of course tape over the entire patch with paper tape, thus giving it good strength.
Now, every time I walk into a home with really high ceilings, I'm going to look extra hard around any ceiling fixtures.
Best tip. Thank you. I can't believe I never thought of that. I was always recutting a larger patch. Much appreciated.
It would be helpful if you explained why you wouldn't do this anywhere but 16' in the air. You already have the scaffolding there, so I'd be inclined to do the "correct" repair there and not take the chance of a callback. I agree with others that it would be good for you to use your garage test wall to show us the pitfalls (and ways to mitigate them) of doing this. I was planning on doing this on a bathroom fixture over a mirror. I dug out the spray foam just a bit (1/8") and intend to use tape _and_ cut the mud+foam away from the box so mounting the light won't tug on the repair.
Hell I spray foamed a 6”x11” irregular hole in my lounge wall. 3 cans later, a bit of mud, a ton of sanding and some paint and you can’t see it..... from the back yard. One day I will have to move the fake pot plant and repair it properly.
As long as it's under the plate or fixture, it's not going to be an aesthetic problem. But you should use the intumescent (orange) version of the foam; it's about twice the price, but it will block the path of flames out of and air into a smouldering electrical box and may be what it takes to meet code.
great tip! tyfs
For anyone doing a fair amount of foaming I'd suggest just getting a gun and the refill cans. They end up being cheaper and have more foam, are reusable, and the orange also doesn't have a cost premium.
As a maintenance director in property management for over twenty years, I have used spray foam for drywall gaps, cracks and repairs under so many different circumstances, as long as you can make it structurally sound and it look nice and clean, no one will care. Spray foam is a useful means to an end of a unique subset of obstacles. If you know how to use it, spray foam can save you so much time and money. I absolutely love it and I keep on hand for all types of construction.
whoa....Sparkies must just be loving you!! lol
This is OK for that junction box, but for recessed lighting, people need to know that some recessed light fixtures require an air gap for heat dissipation. In those, adjacent insulation of any kind is an electrical code violation.
Ben I suggest doing some tests with spray foam in different situations and seeing how it compares. I don't see many other videos on this topic. That would make a cool video! My intuition is that it could be useful in many cases where it will be taped over. At least I don't think it would be visually obvious though as to strength... I guess that's part of the test.
One thing you left out is it is highly flammable product and you should use a flammable retardant spray foam around any electrical area, especially a open junction box. If there were an electrical problem it could catch fire. I believe the color of the foam is orange.
I've seen flame retardant foam in pink and green too.
The orange fire stop foam burns incredibly well. It's for blocking air drafts to prevent fire spreading, but it's not flame retardant in any way, at least last I checked
And cutting in to some electrical wires lol man thank you I'm belly laughing in my truck like a lunatic
Good length of video. Keep it up for us with short attention spans!
Should a used ramen
Now that's funny 😂😂😂
Hard to drip the superglue up against gravity 😒😐
Another helpful video. I have been subscribed for some months now. The videos are easy to understand and clearly enunciated. Congratulations on a great second career. Happy Trails!
I hate when people don’t drop their backsplash down a few in behind the oven. Step up your game.
On the other hand this might be my favorite RUclips channel of all time. Keep up the awesome posts!
Liked solely due to that honesty. Keep doing you.
Yeah, and cut into those electrical wires - “And you know, cut into some electrical wires..”
Lol, called it 😂
Sometimes the right way is the wrong way. And vise versa.
vice versa
@@jimbendtsen8841 oops.
You are just making a backer rod essentially for the mud. You could tape over that if it was visible I guess.
Love it. How you mention cutting the wires... so good.
If you could, someday, show us the "why not" that would be great.
Only in this case? What about insulation/air sealing?
Electric boxes, fan/light boxes, outlets, etc. are all great locations for air leaks and bug infiltration.
There are companies that make products specifically for this purpose and some of them are just spray foams.
Bondo or Elmer’s epoxy wood filler work well. I keep both along with 5, 20, and 45 minute setting compound. The epoxy is my go to it sets quick gets hard but is still soft enough to sand and it takes paint great.
Short answer, yes.
That is perfectly acceptable. All you need is some backer for the troweled on filler.
Wouldn't the lights base cover the hole up?
Every light I've seen has a base that extends an inch over the electrical box
A standard round box is 4". Most light fixture and fan canopies are about 5".
Like Essential Craftsman says; "know you tolerances". I think there's two ditches; sloppyness and perfection. I think I've been in number two most if the time, and am learning to see things in a more practical way. The best place to get rid of perfection is among farmer's.
Like an idiot, I sprayed some of that stuff behind a small drywall fix. Ever see a drywall blister like a monster was trying to break out?
Awesome video man. I noticed that you've shot a few videos with that kitchen backsplash. I'd be interested to know your role at this home.
I used high density foam on many occasion; as hard as drywall when dry.
I have yet to find any high density foam in a can. I don’t believe it is possible as it hasn’t happened yet. It’s all less than 2 pounds/cubic foot. (Even the Locktite Tite foam).
I have used 2 part foams in 6, 8 and 12 pound varieties. It cures hard but not practical to use on vertical surfaces.
I do this with old, noisy bathroom exhaust fans to help quiet them down.
Ceiling fan installation would probably be a poor choice to employ this method as well. Thanks for the tip.
Perfect spot for a medallion.
Or a photo of some deer
I was literally about to ask you specifically this question
Great info! High 5 buddy!
Curious, have you ever just used the foam as a filler/backer a proper mud and tape fix? Rather than just a scab of mud applied to the cut foam alone? I've used foam to fill a void, then cut it out to just below the wall, then filled with mud, then taped it out like any other repair. I was very happy with the result
Interesting & intuitive reasoning. How large/small were the gaps? What foam did u usr What tool did u use to remove some of the dried foam & how deep was the foam removal b4 spackle used?
Ok, first work tomorrow.... To the store and get some spray foam. I got a hole to fill!
hole
@@jimbendtsen8841 nice! I think I was typing to fast. Thanks man!
If you're going to use it. Use non expansion foam.
That can looked pretty light Ben, are you sure you aren't foaming anything else? 🤔
Both wires are white!
It was painted , they probably sprayed it
@@petersmith3639 I noticed that, while it's a light fitting so technically doesn't matter but I'm sure an electrical inspector would call you up on that scenario
Yeah, I think I still might pack it with hot mud mixed with dirt or sand
Worst part of that for me is 16' off the ground... lol
Poor guy - you think he had to install that scaffolding JUST for that box?
You know you're the best right?
I’m an electrician... “ech um - no comment”. 😉😬
That can’t be fire safe, surely? It would just drip out of the ceiling. At the very least could use a fire rated expanding foam? 🤔
I'm wondering why your channel is called Vancouver carpenter when it seems the bulk of your videos are of drywall taping and repairs? Seems like you know a lot about drywall but of the carpentry videos I've seen seem not as specialized(door installs guided by the camera man)? Could be a RUclips algorithm that only shows me certain videos as well but from what I seen I found it odd
But you don't say WHY you shouldn't do it in other places. Why would it be acceptable on a ceiling but not on a wall?
What about spray foam for gap between drywall and bathroom medicine cabinet?
And how much did that can of foam cost? Once you use a can you better use all you can because it will not keep on the self. Waste of money and time. A couple coats of 5 min mud and finished in no time.
can of spray foam is equal to a little bag of quick setting mud, therefore you are not saving any money in material costs, only time and labour
@@andrewcarr2431 Spray can good up to 7 or maybe 10 days. You can patch 50 holes with one bag of quick mud good for 20 years.
Awesome video again Vancouver carpenter. You're always putting out great content, man. Cheers from Scotland 👍
Nobody mentioned any cock here. You literally pulled that out of your ass.
Miguel Moreno is obviously a homophobic dude with confidence issues. Figure it out you degen….
rude uncalled for comments.. What are you two gays even going on about? 🙄
I use many time spray foam ..on drywall where is a big gap for inside corner after that i put paper tape and mud.. i don't know is ok..but in 5 years the inside corner is same no crak. (Ps. My english is not perfect, i hope so you understand me.. i want a answer...if is ok or no)
I recently gave Loctite foam a try. If you use the "dense" foam (not large gap) a try it is much harder than regular spray foam. I think this is because it is closed cell vs open. Would that change the answer orexpand the usage?
Use fireblock it's usually orange
What did he do after he cut the extra foam? What was that stuff to make it smooth?
0:50 @Vancouver Carpenter, a limb punctured my roof last night during a thunderstorm! What should I do?
😂😂😂😂😂
Just installed some similar cabinets. You install those bruh?
Is it ever ok to do a kickflip?
Come on - realty?!? YOU?!? If you were waiting a few hours for the foam to cure before cutting it, why don't you go get some 5 min mud (or 20, or whatever) and do a quick patch with some mesh tape? Throw a little heat on it and you can paint that sucka up in a couple of hours and its actually.... done correctly. Little bit of a let down, sir...
Says don't use spray foam, implying an assumed negative, but then fails to explain why you shouldn;t use spray foam
High work is no Eye work brah...
Isn't spray foam flamable? Fire hazard?
JP J yes it is... depending on brand but most are flammable but if it sparks theres still going to be a fire any way 😆.
That's why they make 3' medallions lol
Just install a brighter bulb and always leave it on - bruh - problem solved.
V.C. carpenter and electrician lol
Why
lol 'just spray foam it brah'. NO. ❤️
Haha we would work great together
I tell you what's not acceptable, completely covering the wires in paint! I'd be pissed if I was the electrician on that job!
I'm doing a drywall job right now and I have about 17 repairs to do from the electricians, and had to clean up the mess they left behind, so, fuck 'em!
Not all of us are like that. Myself and one or two others clean up after ourselves. I take pride in my work.
Kinda bad, that you didn't ever say in the video WHY you would not do that anywhere within eye level, DIY beginners need to be told why it's bad too, not just "dont do it!" :)
Hack?hmmm...
Dangerous! My neighbors house go on fire because of this!
Impossible.
@@ScooterFXRS it's a fact. Elections don't likes water, you have to tern it of before using the spray foam. It's a highli flammable material
J@@user-bj7kt9vm2cSIGH* true Elections do not like water, rain keeps the voters at home. Now I'm going to take that mess of English you made and try cypher it into what I think you meant.
*~ it's a fact. Electricity doesn't like water, you have to turn it off before using the spray foam. It's a highly flammable material * [sic]
Well the fact is ELECTRICITY does like Water [minus pure H2O which is fairly non conductive] just like it "likes" copper.
However, what has water got to do with this foam? There is NO water in Polyurethane and polyisocyanurate foams. Also for you and your neighbors edification, dancing in a mud puddle during a lighting storm and waving a metal rod in the air is not a good idea.
To continue, being mindful, who would spray the foam into the electrical junction box? Do you see this guy doing that? No, in fact there are NO open or bare electrical contacts exposed.
Flammability, here in the modern healthier and safer part of the world there are flame retardants added to it so as to not increase the fire load of a burning structure.
In conclusion I have no idea WTF happened at your neighbors home but I'm fairly certain it was not what Vancouver Carpenter did and whom ever did what they did was seemingly inept.
Never use expanding foam near electric cable. It damages the outer sheath and will cause you electrical issues and possible fire. DO NOT USE EXPANDING FOAM NEAR ELECTRIC CABLE
Ridiculous comment. Expanding foam is used regularly in homes that have spray insulation for the interior walls and attic insulation. Not to mention most building codes require it be sprayed around any wires that penetrate fire block. The only damage that could possibly occur is when there isn't enough space for the foam to expand properly and it causes pinching of the wiring. The outer sheath will not deteriorate when coming in contact with expanding foam.
I'll foam anything I want... Bruh
Just spray foam it bra
Terrible video.
You should have dug out 10mm of the foam and then filled. The foam is only there to add a backer to the filler.
Don’t copy this guy in the video.
Graham DIY exactly!
Americans and canadians aren’t too familiar with spray foams yet.