The K46 is serviceable, and other brands do include drain plugs and even go as far to list the fluid type, the magnet cleaning instructions and the correct re-fill amount. John Deere opted to not have drain plugs and call it "non-serviceable". Also its fairly in-expensive and easy to fully re-build one, thus making the K46 an awesome option for anyone re-building or building a mower, can pick one up practically free and re-build it inexpensively.
Also, he isn’t telling you that you can put drain plugs in a k46, he is obviously a sales person and knows very little about the service end of the business.
The rebuild kits I've seen are $400 or more. The pump & motor are the main parts besides other internals that can wear out. Mine hasn't crapped out yet maybe due to me changing the fluid every season reaching 800 hours on an L120. Just found a broken GT275 on CL for $500 that has a K70B in it. This is cheaper all around having the tractor and all parts to do a swap. Also found a 318 for $250 that I just can't find time to restore, but think about buying it to re-sell?
The smallest one is serviceable, if you know what you are doing. Either buy the pump/motor rebuild kit (gears if needed) from tuff torq for a few hundred dollars or do the following if pump/motor grooving isn't too bad and there is no play in pistons. 1 Remove transmission with wheels attached, thoroughly clean and flip upside down on blocks for remainder of service. 2 Remove filler cap to drain 3 Thoroughly clean dirt from housing since you will not be disassembling entire transmission. Remove bottom clam shell (take picture of assembly if needed for reference later on), remove 3 bolts and pump/motor housing and check for no side play on pump/motor pistons and no severe gear wear. 4 Block wet sand all 4 mating surfaces of pump/motor rotors/base with 1500 grit wet sand paper and 123 block or surface plate until all grooving is removed and surfaces are flat and restored. 5 Thoroughly clean interior of case, magnets and filter, lightly lube and reassemble pump/motor housing, torquing 3 bolts to 35ft/lbs 6 Ensure there is ZERO contamination inside case. Carefully reinstall clam shell using Permatex gasket maker/motoseal, torque case bolts to 20ft/lbs and let cure 24hrs. 7 Flip trans upright and level, refill with approx 2.3 quarts of 5W or 10W-50 fully synthetic motor oil, proper level is 22mm from top of filler neck, no higher. 8 Hold shift lever fully fwd or reverse and spin input shaft clockwise for a few revolutions to prime until tires try to rotate. Recheck/top off fluid level 9 Reinstall transmission, slowly run tractor fwd and reverse a few times to circulate trans fluid and cavitation noise dissipates.
The first one is a K46, 2nd one is a K62, 3rd one is a K70, last one is a K90/91/92 The K62 is the older version of the K66. K61 is the older version of the K62. The K70 is the older version of the K72.
Had a JD LT150 I bought new in 2002. Had the K46 transmission like shown. You can change the transmission fluid. You use the fill plug but have to pull the rear end to empty it since it doesn’t have a drain plug. I never did it because I didn’t know anything then about it being known as a very weak transmission. Pulled a utility trailer that weighed 550lbs empty all over the property loaded with firewood and plowed a good size driveway plus mowing till 2019. Running as good as new when I sold it.
After I changed the fluid in my L110 it rode around alot better and faster it use to back up slow and now it does with speed I never cleaned the second part of it but it ain't broken so theirs no need to yet the second magnet or filter I used synthetic hydrostatic zero turn transmission fluid 20w50 is what it said to use for that type of transmission when I looked it up What came out wasn't even a quart of oil or transmission fluid so when I filled back up I filled past the line up to the cap then took it off the jack stands an rode it around So now I gotta drain it again cause that was just to loosen up any old stuck fluid I use a shop vac and jack stands an hold the drive pedal down for forward for awhile to suck the stuff out then put it in reverse I use different sized tubes to suck out all the stuff
Thanks for sharing the knowledge. I didn’t know the k46 was made for all flat ground. I double checked the manual and your right. I used my craftsman tractor with a k46 and it outlasted the body and multiple decks over 25+years of use on 2 acres of far from flat ground. With no servicing done ever! But now I know what to look for when buying a new lawn tractor. I just bought a 3yr old husqvaran with a much needed fabricated deck on it. I do wish it had a differential lock. but I got it for a deal. Still has the k46 in the Husqvarna and it was starting to get noisy, trans oil was low. I service the trans axle, along with the rest of the tractor and I’m very happy how much of a difference it made. I’m not sure why tuff torque would say the k46 is unserviceable. If I didn’t do something it wouldn’t have lasted much longer. I guess they want people replacing the transmission or buying a new machine every four years or so. Enough of me rambling… thanks for sharing!
It's called "planned obsolescence". The decision to make it difficult to change the oil is made by the bean counters. They don't WANT the unit to last 1000-1500 hours. They want to sell you a new machine in 3-4 years. It's similar to putting into the operating manual a requirement to start the engine with the throttle wide open.....so that it will be blowing blue smoke with only 300 hours on the meter. Several times, I used Husqvarna's customer "service" line to ask the reason for that operating instruction.....no response. Do you start your car with the pedal to the metal??
THIS is one great video Sir. The information is just right on with examples to see what you get for the money. Could you do another one with different manufactures Sir ??
@@qcan8468 No, I think he mentions the mower models. Tuff Torq doesn't make an LT, or a 279. The far left one is probably a K46, the second is a K62. I know that because LX277s and LX279s both have a K62. The third is a K70, which was in GT275s and 345s, as well as some in-between. On the K62, you can check inside the case where he removed the plug to see if the fluid is up to the piece of casting per the manual. The K70, those 5-bolt sleeves slide onto the same 1" axles the K62 has, and is held on with a circlip and the same keyway.
My lx178 trans is still going strong. Hills, rocks, front wheels falling off. Off road mowing blackberries. Great hydro. One Needs to reinforce mounting to frame and get hd front bearings for wheels.
Are those dip sticks like at 2:55 have the SAME type & size threads??? I have a Snapper with a K55 that has a plug but NOT a stick on the plug, wondering is they can be interchanged
Although, I don't disagree with many of the comments about companies trying to just sell more on nonserviceable. One thing I noticed when my peerless hydro crapped out on me was how delicate the pump motors are. Literally a few scratches on the pump that barely a fingernail could catch can make these units inoperable. So I could see why companies would make it so you can't easily change the fluid, since the slightest contaminates could cause failure. That being said I did fix my unservicable peerless lth2000 with a very fine honing block.
I have a 2014 john deere x320 I think it has a k46 on it and I have picked up a k62 and have been considering swapping them out but not sure they will enterchangeable
I have the exact lawn tractor and transaxle. The best thing that you can do for your transaxle is pull it out. Check the seals for leaks. They can be replaced without tearing down the unit. Then pop the cap off and turn the transaxle upside down and let it drain over night. Then refill to 3/4 to 1 inch below the cap with 20x50 synthetic oil then reinstall the cap. Spin the axles by hand a bit, tip the unit over and around to get the air bubbles out. Pop the cap off again and re-check the oil level. If at 3/4 to 1 inch re-cap and reinstall and you will be good to go for a few years. When you first start it up the trans might hesitate or stall for a moment until the oil re-circulates. Don't panic, it will work. You can watch Taryl Fixes All on YT for complete instructions. The transaxle is filled at the factory with oil that is too light. Mine failed at 110 hours use.
Hi, and thanks for the video. I have a John Deere E110 and a D110. I wanted to change the transaxle out from the D to the E because the E went out. Do you know if they're interchangeable? TIA 🙏🏾
Is the smallest one a TL-200? They are not serviceable and notoriously unreliable. K-46 fails if not maintained or not purged before use. (People need to read owner's manuals.)
Can I ask you since I cannot find my answer I have tuff torque 400 transmission on my new mower I think I had zt2800 hydros on my old bobcat how do they compare
@Homer Simpson I only bought a used half working one for a back up mower now everything's fixed on it now gotta park it and do my shaft support parts on my craftsmen mowers I still was thinking about welding some straight pipes on my twin briggs muffler but I don't want it burning out my valves or piston and have them aiming to the sides so the smoke doesn't blow up my nose while I'm mowing
X300 @ 300hrs, bad noise/vibration, replaced all belts/idlers, was trans pulley wallowed out loose as hell. Replacement pulley (China) sloppy fit. JD is going to sh*t. $3000 mower. No excuse for this. Trans shaft?? questionable. Dealer-- "the last mower you will need to buy". Screw JD.
I worked in the industry for 40+ years, what they won't tell you is MANY if not MOST brand names are using China stuff, COMPLETE assemblies then put the assemblies in the frames here
That's a bunch of bullshit you just said about the k46 we have hills and mine mows it good up and down hill. That second one is like what's on my old craftsman's all someone done was added a tank onto the breather/fill tube plus they added a yellow fill cap mine doesn't have that but its still the same without it Actually if that one yours has on the breather if the cap doesn't have a hole on it that transmission will mess up if it isn't already the air bubbles have to go some place I got three k51s
The K46 is serviceable, and other brands do include drain plugs and even go as far to list the fluid type, the magnet cleaning instructions and the correct re-fill amount. John Deere opted to not have drain plugs and call it "non-serviceable". Also its fairly in-expensive and easy to fully re-build one, thus making the K46 an awesome option for anyone re-building or building a mower, can pick one up practically free and re-build it inexpensively.
Yep, most are told they are NOT serviceable where they can sell another mower
Also, he isn’t telling you that you can put drain plugs in a k46, he is obviously a sales person and knows very little about the service end of the business.
The rebuild kits I've seen are $400 or more. The pump & motor are the main parts besides other internals that can wear out. Mine hasn't crapped out yet maybe due to me changing the fluid every season reaching 800 hours on an L120. Just found a broken GT275 on CL for $500 that has a K70B in it. This is cheaper all around having the tractor and all parts to do a swap. Also found a 318 for $250 that I just can't find time to restore, but think about buying it to re-sell?
I Have serviced K46s on several makers lawn trackers.
ruclips.net/video/53Yqkm2QJB0/видео.html
The smallest one is serviceable, if you know what you are doing. Either buy the pump/motor rebuild kit (gears if needed) from tuff torq for a few hundred dollars or do the following if pump/motor grooving isn't too bad and there is no play in pistons.
1 Remove transmission with wheels attached, thoroughly clean and flip upside down on blocks for remainder of service.
2 Remove filler cap to drain
3 Thoroughly clean dirt from housing since you will not be disassembling entire transmission. Remove bottom clam shell (take picture of assembly if needed for reference later on), remove 3 bolts and pump/motor housing and check for no side play on pump/motor pistons and no severe gear wear.
4 Block wet sand all 4 mating surfaces of pump/motor rotors/base with 1500 grit wet sand paper and 123 block or surface plate until all grooving is removed and surfaces are flat and restored.
5 Thoroughly clean interior of case, magnets and filter, lightly lube and reassemble pump/motor housing, torquing 3 bolts to 35ft/lbs
6 Ensure there is ZERO contamination inside case. Carefully reinstall clam shell using Permatex gasket maker/motoseal, torque case bolts to 20ft/lbs and let cure 24hrs.
7 Flip trans upright and level, refill with approx 2.3 quarts of 5W or 10W-50 fully synthetic motor oil, proper level is 22mm from top of filler neck, no higher.
8 Hold shift lever fully fwd or reverse and spin input shaft clockwise for a few revolutions to prime until tires try to rotate. Recheck/top off fluid level
9 Reinstall transmission, slowly run tractor fwd and reverse a few times to circulate trans fluid and cavitation noise dissipates.
Well said.
The first one is a K46, 2nd one is a K62, 3rd one is a K70, last one is a K90/91/92
The K62 is the older version of the K66. K61 is the older version of the K62.
The K70 is the older version of the K72.
Thank you for clearing this up!! Been wondering and looking for this answer 😊 cheers
Had a JD LT150 I bought new in 2002. Had the K46 transmission like shown. You can change the transmission fluid. You use the fill plug but have to pull the rear end to empty it since it doesn’t have a drain plug. I never did it because I didn’t know anything then about it being known as a very weak transmission. Pulled a utility trailer that weighed 550lbs empty all over the property loaded with firewood and plowed a good size driveway plus mowing till 2019. Running as good as new when I sold it.
After I changed the fluid in my L110 it rode around alot better and faster it use to back up slow and now it does with speed I never cleaned the second part of it but it ain't broken so theirs no need to yet the second magnet or filter I used synthetic hydrostatic zero turn transmission fluid 20w50 is what it said to use for that type of transmission when I looked it up
What came out wasn't even a quart of oil or transmission fluid so when I filled back up I filled past the line up to the cap then took it off the jack stands an rode it around
So now I gotta drain it again cause that was just to loosen up any old stuck fluid I use a shop vac and jack stands an hold the drive pedal down for forward for awhile to suck the stuff out then put it in reverse I use different sized tubes to suck out all the stuff
I cut a bigger hole out under the seat on my L110 I can drain it anytime now
They were better made back then. 10 years later the k46 became hot garbage.
Thanks for sharing the knowledge. I didn’t know the k46 was made for all flat ground. I double checked the manual and your right.
I used my craftsman tractor with a k46 and it outlasted the body and multiple decks over 25+years of use on 2 acres of far from flat ground. With no servicing done ever!
But now I know what to look for when buying a new lawn tractor.
I just bought a 3yr old husqvaran with a much needed fabricated deck on it. I do wish it had a differential lock. but I got it for a deal.
Still has the k46 in the Husqvarna and it was starting to get noisy, trans oil was low. I service the trans axle, along with the rest of the tractor and I’m very happy how much of a difference it made. I’m not sure why tuff torque would say the k46 is unserviceable. If I didn’t do something it wouldn’t have lasted much longer. I guess they want people replacing the transmission or buying a new machine every four years or so.
Enough of me rambling… thanks for sharing!
Except hes wrong about not being able to change the oil you can.
It's called "planned obsolescence". The decision to make it difficult to change the oil is made by the bean counters. They don't WANT the unit to last 1000-1500 hours. They want to sell you a new machine in 3-4 years. It's similar to putting into the operating manual a requirement to start the engine with the throttle wide open.....so that it will be blowing blue smoke with only 300 hours on the meter. Several times, I used Husqvarna's customer "service" line to ask the reason for that operating instruction.....no response. Do you start your car with the pedal to the metal??
Giving the model number of the trans would be very helpful. Thank you
Would be nice if you could mention the K# of these transaxles. Am guessing the first one is a k46.
He did, you just need to listen and not jump on the comments and stopping the video.
THIS is one great video Sir. The information is just right on with examples to see what you get for the money. Could you do another one with different manufactures Sir ??
You forgot to Add that the K46 also has a heavy duty version
the small trans can be serviced.
Yup I just cleaned mine out on the old john deere L110
How about the MODEL NUMBERS of the transmissions?
He did. Watch again.
@@qcan8468 No, I think he mentions the mower models. Tuff Torq doesn't make an LT, or a 279. The far left one is probably a K46, the second is a K62. I know that because LX277s and LX279s both have a K62. The third is a K70, which was in GT275s and 345s, as well as some in-between. On the K62, you can check inside the case where he removed the plug to see if the fluid is up to the piece of casting per the manual. The K70, those 5-bolt sleeves slide onto the same 1" axles the K62 has, and is held on with a circlip and the same keyway.
He listed, K46, K51?, K70 and K91…..
You can xthange the oil on the first one. There is a black seal cap at the top that you pop off and you can drain it by flipping it over.
My lx178 trans is still going strong. Hills, rocks, front wheels falling off. Off road mowing blackberries. Great hydro. One Needs to reinforce mounting to frame
and get hd front bearings for wheels.
Are those dip sticks like at 2:55 have the SAME type & size threads??? I have a Snapper with a K55 that has a plug but NOT a stick on the plug, wondering is they can be interchanged
Although, I don't disagree with many of the comments about companies trying to just sell more on nonserviceable. One thing I noticed when my peerless hydro crapped out on me was how delicate the pump motors are. Literally a few scratches on the pump that barely a fingernail could catch can make these units inoperable.
So I could see why companies would make it so you can't easily change the fluid, since the slightest contaminates could cause failure.
That being said I did fix my unservicable peerless lth2000 with a very fine honing block.
There are 56 variations of the Tuff torq K46...witch one is it?
Left to right: Tuff Torq K46 Tuff Torq K62 Tuff Torq K70 K91
Actually you did give the number of the trans. Thank you
Get it together! The transmission on the LT CAN be serviced!
I have a 2014 john deere x320 I think it has a k46 on it and I have picked up a k62 and have been considering swapping them out but not sure they will enterchangeable
The x320 should have a k58
"No way to service the small ones"
Bollocks, of course there is. Split the case (and fit drain plugs while you're at it)
I have a d160, and it's starting to lose power because I have so many hills. Can I mount the biggest trans axle on, or am I stuck with this one?
I have the exact lawn tractor and transaxle. The best thing that you can do for your transaxle is pull it out. Check the seals for leaks. They can be replaced without tearing down the unit. Then pop the cap off and turn the transaxle upside down and let it drain over night. Then refill to 3/4 to 1 inch below the cap with 20x50 synthetic oil then reinstall the cap. Spin the axles by hand a bit, tip the unit over and around to get the air bubbles out. Pop the cap off again and re-check the oil level. If at 3/4 to 1 inch re-cap and reinstall and you will be good to go for a few years. When you first start it up the trans might hesitate or stall for a moment until the oil re-circulates. Don't panic, it will work.
You can watch Taryl Fixes All on YT for complete instructions.
The transaxle is filled at the factory with oil that is too light. Mine failed at 110 hours use.
Thank you . K71 here 😀
Hi, and thanks for the video. I have a John Deere E110 and a D110. I wanted to change the transaxle out from the D to the E because the E went out. Do you know if they're interchangeable? TIA 🙏🏾
What Make? What model? Tuff Tork? K 46 and up.
hello, how do i buy this set. mine was ruined and I don't find it here in Brazil
Is the smallest one a TL-200? They are not serviceable and notoriously unreliable. K-46 fails if not maintained or not purged before use. (People need to read owner's manuals.)
Can I ask you since I cannot find my answer I have tuff torque 400 transmission on my new mower I think I had zt2800 hydros on my old bobcat how do they compare
The Sunstrand trans on my Simplicity Soverign Is way better than any tuff torq!
The K66 and bigger are good. The K46 gives the brand a bad name.
Many variants of the K46 some are heavy duty their isn't just one fits all
I have a three year old Poulson with a bad trans. Can I mount a larger trans in it? Its almost brand new.
If I were you, I'd talk with a Poulson (Poulan?) rep before putting a different transaxle on it! Good luck!
Wonder if it's a poulan pro like those good chainsaws i like to use over stihl
@Homer Simpson I only bought a used half working one for a back up mower now everything's fixed on it now gotta park it and do my shaft support parts on my craftsmen mowers
I still was thinking about welding some straight pipes on my twin briggs muffler but I don't want it burning out my valves or piston and have them aiming to the sides so the smoke doesn't blow up my nose while I'm mowing
LOL, they build them as DISPOSABLE equiptment, if you didn't know that you know it now
The first one iv put new filter an oil in them
X300 @ 300hrs, bad noise/vibration, replaced all belts/idlers, was trans pulley wallowed out loose as hell. Replacement pulley (China) sloppy fit. JD is going to sh*t. $3000 mower. No excuse for this. Trans shaft?? questionable. Dealer-- "the last mower you will need to buy". Screw JD.
I worked in the industry for 40+ years, what they won't tell you is MANY if not MOST brand names are using China stuff, COMPLETE assemblies then put the assemblies in the frames here
I have a JD l120 and I assure you you can service that 1 st tranny.
John Deere transmissions are plastic now seen a lot come in work
What model are you talking about? I think it would be quite difficult for them to sell x3 x5 x7s with a plastic transmission lol
You are so uninformed. Please stop. You are not helping people by sharing this wrong information.
This is just a sales pitch not real-world advice
Sorry dude wasn't empressed with your video you seemed not sure on your information you also backtracked on your information
That's a bunch of bullshit you just said about the k46 we have hills and mine mows it good up and down hill.
That second one is like what's on my old craftsman's all someone done was added a tank onto the breather/fill tube plus they added a yellow fill cap mine doesn't have that but its still the same without it
Actually if that one yours has on the breather if the cap doesn't have a hole on it that transmission will mess up if it isn't already the air bubbles have to go some place
I got three k51s
You can change the oil in it People are just lazy and don't already go to work.